第5章

TosingleoutdetailsfromthegreatdreamofRomanChurches，wouldbethewildestoccupationintheworld。ButSt。StefanoRotondo，adamp，mildewedvaultofanoldchurchintheoutskirtsofRome，willalwaysstruggleuppermostinmymind，byreasonofthehideouspaintingswithwhichitswallsarecovered。TheserepresentthemartyrdomsofsaintsandearlyChristians；andsuchapanoramaofhorrorandbutcherynomancouldimagineinhissleep，thoughheweretoeatawholepigraw，forsupper。Grey-beardedmenbeingboiled，fried，grilled，crimped，singed，eatenbywildbeasts，worriedbydogs，buriedalive，tornasunderbyhorses，choppedupsmallwithhatchets:womenhavingtheirbreaststornwithironpinchers，theirtonguescutout，theirearsscrewedoff，theirjawsbroken，theirbodiesstretchedupontherack，orskinneduponthestake，orcrackledupandmeltedinthefire:theseareamongthemildestsubjects。Soinsistedon，andlabouredat，besides，thateverysufferergivesyouthesameoccasionforwonderaspooroldDuncanawoke，inLadyMacbeth，whenshemarvelledathishavingsomuchbloodinhim。

ThereisanupperchamberintheMamertineprisons，overwhatissaidtohavebeen-andverypossiblymayhavebeen-thedungeonofSt。Peter。Thischamberisnowfittedupasanoratory，dedicatedtothatsaint；anditlives，asadistinctandseparateplace，inmyrecollection，too。Itisverysmallandlow-roofed；

andthedreadandgloomoftheponderous，obdurateoldprisonareonit，asiftheyhadcomeupinadarkmistthroughthefloor。

Hangingonthewalls，amongtheclusteredvotiveofferings，areobjects，atoncestrangelyinkeeping，andstrangelyatvariance，withtheplace-rustydaggers，knives，pistols，clubs，diversinstrumentsofviolenceandmurder，broughthere，freshfromuse，andhunguptopropitiateoffendedHeaven:asiftheblooduponthemwoulddrainoffinconsecratedair，andhavenovoicetocrywith。Itisallsosilentandsoclose，andtomb-like；andthedungeonsbelowaresoblackandstealthy，andstagnant，andnaked；

thatthislittledarkspotbecomesadreamwithinadream:andinthevisionofgreatchurcheswhichcomerollingpastmelikeasea，itisasmallwavebyitself，thatmeltsintonootherwave，anddoesnotflowonwiththerest。

ItisanawfulthingtothinkoftheenormouscavernsthatareenteredfromsomeRomanchurches，andunderminethecity。Manychurcheshavecryptsandsubterraneanchapelsofgreatsize，which，intheancienttime，werebaths，andsecretchambersoftemples，andwhatnot:butIdonotspeakofthem。BeneaththechurchofSt。GiovanniandSt。Paolo，therearethejawsofaterrificrangeofcaverns，hewnoutoftherock，andsaidtohaveanotheroutletunderneaththeColiseum-tremendousdarknessesofvastextent，half-buriedintheearthandunexplorable，wherethedulltorches，flashedbytheattendants，glimmerdownlongrangesofdistantvaultsbranchingtotherightandleft，likestreetsinacityofthedead；andshowthecolddampstealingdownthewalls，drip-

drop，drip-drop，tojointhepoolsofwaterthatliehereandthere，andneversaw，orneverwillsee，onerayofthesun。Someaccountsmakethesetheprisonsofthewildbeastsdestinedfortheamphitheatre；sometheprisonsofthecondemnedgladiators；some，both。Butthelegendmostappallingtothefancyis，thatintheupperrange(fortherearetwostoriesofthesecaves)theEarlyChristiansdestinedtobeeatenattheColiseumShows，heardthewildbeasts，hungryforthem，roaringdownbelow；until，uponthenightandsolitudeoftheircaptivity，thereburstthesuddennoonandlifeofthevasttheatrecrowdedtotheparapet，andofthese，theirdreadedneighbours，boundingin！

BelowthechurchofSanSebastiano，twomilesbeyondthegateofSanSebastiano，ontheAppianWay，istheentrancetothecatacombsofRome-quarriesintheoldtime，butafterwardsthehiding-

placesoftheChristians。Theseghastlypassageshavebeenexploredfortwentymiles；andformachainoflabyrinths，sixtymilesincircumference。

AgauntFranciscanfriar，withawildbrighteye，wasouronlyguide，downintothisprofoundanddreadfulplace。Thenarrowwaysandopeningshitherandthither，coupledwiththedeadandheavyair，soonblottedout，inallofus，anyrecollectionofthetrackbywhichwehadcome:andIcouldnothelpthinking"GoodHeaven，if，inasuddenfitofmadness，heshoulddashthetorchesout，orifheshouldbeseizedwithafit，whatwouldbecomeofus！"Onwewandered，amongmartyrs"graves:passinggreatsubterraneanvaultedroads，diverginginalldirections，andchokedupwithheapsofstones，thatthievesandmurderersmaynottakerefugethere，andformapopulationunderRome，evenworsethanthatwhichlivesbetweenitandthesun。Graves，graves，graves；Gravesofmen，ofwomen，oftheirlittlechildren，whorancryingtothepersecutors，"WeareChristians！WeareChristians！"thattheymightbemurderedwiththeirparents；Graveswiththepalmofmartyrdomroughlycutintotheirstoneboundaries，andlittleniches，madetoholdavesselofthemartyrs"blood；Gravesofsomewholiveddownhere，foryearstogether，ministeringtotherest，andpreachingtruth，andhope，andcomfort，fromtherudealtars，thatbearwitnesstotheirfortitudeatthishour；moreroomygraves，butfarmoreterrible，wherehundreds，beingsurprised，werehemmedinandwalledup:buriedbeforeDeath，andkilledbyslowstarvation。

"TheTriumphsoftheFaitharenotabovegroundinoursplendidchurches，"saidthefriar，lookingrounduponus，aswestoppedtorestinoneofthelowpassages，withbonesanddustsurroundingusoneveryside。"Theyarehere！AmongtheMartyrs"Graves！"Hewasagentle，earnestman，andsaiditfromhisheart；butwhenI

thoughthowChristianmenhavedealtwithoneanother；how，pervertingourmostmercifulreligion，theyhavehunteddownandtortured，burntandbeheaded，strangled，slaughtered，andoppressedeachother；IpicturedtomyselfanagonysurpassinganythatthisDusthadsufferedwiththebreathoflifeyetlingeringinit，andhowthesegreatandconstantheartswouldhavebeenshaken-howtheywouldhavequailedanddrooped-ifaforeknowledgeofthedeedsthatprofessingChristianswouldcommitintheGreatNameforwhichtheydied，couldhaverentthemwithitsownunutterableanguish，onthecruelwheel，andbittercross，andinthefearfulfire。

Sucharethespotsandpatchesinmydreamofchurches，thatremainapart，andkeeptheirseparateidentity。Ihaveafainterrecollection，sometimesoftherelics；ofthefragmentsofthepillaroftheTemplethatwasrentintwain；oftheportionofthetablethatwasspreadfortheLastSupper；ofthewellatwhichthewomanofSamariagavewatertoOurSaviour；oftwocolumnsfromthehouseofPontiusPilate；ofthestonetowhichtheSacredhandswerebound，whenthescourgingwasperformed；ofthegrid-ironofSaintLawrence，andthestonebelowit，markedwiththefryingofhisfatandblood；thesesetashadowymarkonsomecathedrals，asanoldstory，orafablemight，andstopthemforaninstant，astheyflitbeforeme。Therestisavastwildernessofconsecratedbuildingsofallshapesandfancies，blendingonewithanother；ofbatteredpillarsofoldPagantemples，dugupfromtheground，andforced，likegiantcaptives，tosupporttheroofsofChristianchurches；ofpictures，bad，andwonderful，andimpious，andridiculous；ofkneelingpeople，curlingincense，tinklingbells，andsometimes(butnotoften)ofaswellingorgan:ofMadonne，withtheirbreastsstuckfullofswords，arrangedinahalf-circlelikeamodernfan；ofactualskeletonsofdeadsaints，hideouslyattiredingaudysatins，silks，andvelvetstrimmedwithgold:

theirwitheredcrustofskulladornedwithpreciousjewels，orwithchapletsofcrushedflowers；sometimesofpeoplegatheredroundthepulpit，andamonkwithinitstretchingoutthecrucifix，andpreachingfiercely:thesunjuststreamingdownthroughsomehighwindowonthesail-clothstretchedabovehimandacrossthechurch，tokeephishigh-pitchedvoicefrombeinglostamongtheechoesoftheroof。Thenmytiredmemorycomesoutuponaflightofsteps，whereknotsofpeopleareasleep，orbaskinginthelight；andstrollsaway，amongtherags，andsmells，andpalaces，andhovels，ofanoldItalianstreet。

OnoneSaturdaymorning(theeighthofMarch)，amanwasbeheadedhere。Nineortenmonthsbefore，hehadwaylaidaBavariancountess，travellingasapilgrimtoRome-aloneandonfoot，ofcourse-andperforming，itissaid，thatactofpietyforthefourthtime。HesawherchangeapieceofgoldatViterbo，wherehelived；followedher；borehercompanyonherjourneyforsomefortymilesormore，onthetreacherouspretextofprotectingher；

attackedher，inthefulfilmentofhisunrelentingpurpose，ontheCampagna，withinaveryshortdistanceofRome，neartowhatiscalled(butwhatisnot)theTombofNero；robbedher；andbeathertodeathwithherownpilgrim"sstaff。Hewasnewlymarried，andgavesomeofherappareltohiswife:sayingthathehadboughtitatafair。She，however，whohadseenthepilgrim-countesspassingthroughtheirtown，recognisedsometrifleashavingbelongedtoher。Herhusbandthentoldherwhathehaddone。She，inconfession，toldapriest；andthemanwastaken，withinfourdaysafterthecommissionofthemurder。

Therearenofixedtimesfortheadministrationofjustice，oritsexecution，inthisunaccountablecountry；andhehadbeeninprisoneversince。OntheFriday，ashewasdiningwiththeotherprisoners，theycameandtoldhimhewastobebeheadednextmorning，andtookhimaway。ItisveryunusualtoexecuteinLent；

buthiscrimebeingaverybadone，itwasdeemedadvisabletomakeanexampleofhimatthattime，whengreatnumbersofpilgrimswerecomingtowardsRome，fromallparts，fortheHolyWeek。IheardofthisontheFridayevening，andsawthebillsupatthechurches，callingonthepeopletoprayforthecriminal"ssoul。So，I

determinedtogo，andseehimexecuted。

Thebeheadingwasappointedforfourteenanda-halfo"clock，Romantime:oraquarterbeforenineintheforenoon。Ihadtwofriendswithme；andaswedidnotknowbutthatthecrowdmightbeverygreat，wewereonthespotbyhalf-pastseven。TheplaceofexecutionwasnearthechurchofSanGiovannidecollato(adoubtfulcomplimenttoSaintJohntheBaptist)inoneoftheimpassablebackstreetswithoutanyfootway，ofwhichagreatpartofRomeiscomposed-astreetofrottenhouses，whichdonotseemtobelongtoanybody，anddonotseemtohaveeverbeeninhabited，andcertainlywereneverbuiltonanyplan，orforanyparticularpurpose，andhavenowindow-sashes，andarealittlelikedesertedbreweries，andmightbewarehousesbutforhavingnothinginthem。

Oppositetooneofthese，awhitehouse，thescaffoldwasbuilt。

Anuntidy，unpainted，uncouth，crazy-lookingthingofcourse:somesevenfeethigh，perhaps:withatall，gallows-shapedframerisingaboveit，inwhichwastheknife，chargedwithaponderousmassofiron，allreadytodescend，andglitteringbrightlyinthemorningsun，wheneveritlookedout，nowandthen，frombehindacloud。

Therewerenotmanypeoplelingeringabout；andthesewerekeptataconsiderabledistancefromthescaffold，bypartiesofthePope"sdragoons。Twoorthreehundredfoot-soldierswereunderarms，standingateaseinclustershereandthere；andtheofficerswerewalkingupanddownintwosandthrees，chattingtogether，andsmokingcigars。

Attheendofthestreet，wasanopenspace，wheretherewouldbeadust-heap，andpilesofbrokencrockery，andmoundsofvegetablerefuse，butforsuchthingsbeingthrownanywhereandeverywhereinRome，andfavouringnoparticularsortoflocality。Wegotintoakindofwash-house，belongingtoadwelling-houseonthisspot；andstandingthereinanoldcart，andonaheapofcartwheelspiledagainstthewall，looked，throughalargegratedwindow，atthescaffold，andstraightdownthestreetbeyondituntil，inconsequenceofitsturningoffabruptlytotheleft，ourperspectivewasbroughttoasuddentermination，andhadacorpulentofficer，inacockedhat，foritscrowningfeature。

Nineo"clockstruck，andteno"clockstruck，andnothinghappened。

Allthebellsofallthechurchesrangasusual。Alittleparliamentofdogsassembledintheopenspace，andchasedeachother，inandoutamongthesoldiers。Fierce-lookingRomansofthelowestclass，inbluecloaks，russetcloaks，andragsuncloaked，cameandwent，andtalkedtogether。Womenandchildrenfluttered，ontheskirtsofthescantycrowd。Onelargemuddyspotwasleftquitebare，likeabaldplaceonaman"shead。Acigar-merchant，withanearthenpotofcharcoalashesinonehand，wentupanddown，cryinghiswares。Apastry-merchantdividedhisattentionbetweenthescaffoldandhiscustomers。Boystriedtoclimbupwalls，andtumbleddownagain。Priestsandmonkselbowedapassageforthemselvesamongthepeople，andstoodontiptoeforasightoftheknife:thenwentaway。Artists，ininconceivablehatsofthemiddle-ages，andbeards(thankHeaven！)ofnoageatall，flashedpicturesquescowlsaboutthemfromtheirstationsinthethrong。

Onegentleman(connectedwiththefinearts，Ipresume)wentupanddowninapairofHessian-boots，witharedbeardhangingdownonhisbreast，andhislongandbrightredhair，plaitedintotwotails，oneoneithersideofhishead，whichfelloverhisshouldersinfrontofhim，verynearlytohiswaist，andwerecarefullyentwinedandbraided！

Eleveno"clockstruckandstillnothinghappened。Arumourgotabout，amongthecrowd，thatthecriminalwouldnotconfess；inwhichcase，thepriestswouldkeephimuntiltheAveMaria(sunset)；foritistheirmercifulcustomneverfinallytoturnthecrucifixawayfromamanatthatpass，asonerefusingtobeshriven，andconsequentlyasinnerabandonedoftheSaviour，untilthen。Peoplebegantodropoff。Theofficersshruggedtheirshouldersandlookeddoubtful。Thedragoons，whocameridingupbelowourwindow，everynowandthen，toorderanunluckyhackney-

coachorcartaway，assoonasithadcomfortablyestablisheditself，andwascoveredwithexultingpeople(butneverbefore)，becameimperious，andquick-tempered。Thebaldplacehadn"tastragglinghairuponit；andthecorpulentofficer，crowningtheperspective，tookaworldofsnuff。

Suddenly，therewasanoiseoftrumpets。"Attention！"wasamongthefoot-soldiersinstantly。Theyweremarcheduptothescaffoldandformedroundit。Thedragoonsgallopedtotheirnearerstationstoo。Theguillotinebecamethecentreofawoodofbristlingbayonetsandshiningsabres。Thepeopleclosedroundnearer，ontheflankofthesoldiery。Alongstragglingstreamofmenandboys，whohadaccompaniedtheprocessionfromtheprison，camepouringintotheopenspace。Thebaldspotwasscarcelydistinguishablefromtherest。Thecigarandpastry-merchantsresignedallthoughtsofbusiness，forthemoment，andabandoningthemselveswhollytopleasure，gotgoodsituationsinthecrowd。

Theperspectiveended，now，inatroopofdragoons。Andthecorpulentofficer，swordinhand，lookedhardatachurchclosetohim，whichhecouldsee，butwe，thecrowd，couldnot。

Afterashortdelay，somemonkswereseenapproachingtothescaffoldfromthischurch；andabovetheirheads，comingonslowlyandgloomily，theeffigyofChristuponthecross，canopiedwithblack。Thiswascarriedroundthefootofthescaffold，tothefront，andturnedtowardsthecriminal，thathemightseeittothelast。Itwashardlyinitsplace，whenheappearedontheplatform，bare-footed；hishandsbound；andwiththecollarandneckofhisshirtcutaway，almosttotheshoulder。Ayoungman-

six-and-twenty-vigorouslymade，andwell-shaped。Facepale；

smalldarkmoustache；anddarkbrownhair。

Hehadrefusedtoconfess，itseemed，withoutfirsthavinghiswifebroughttoseehim；andtheyhadsentanescortforher，whichhadoccasionedthedelay。

Heimmediatelykneeleddown，belowtheknife。Hisneckfittingintoahole，madeforthepurpose，inacrossplank，wasshutdown，byanotherplankabove；exactlylikethepillory。Immediatelybelowhimwasaleathernbag。Andintoithisheadrolledinstantly。

Theexecutionerwasholdingitbythehair，andwalkingwithitroundthescaffold，showingittothepeople，beforeonequiteknewthattheknifehadfallenheavily，andwitharattlingsound。

Whenithadtravelledroundthefoursidesofthescaffold，itwassetuponapoleinfront-alittlepatchofblackandwhite，forthelongstreettostareat，andthefliestosettleon。Theeyeswereturnedupward，asifhehadavoidedthesightoftheleathernbag，andlookedtothecrucifix。Everytingeandhueoflifehadleftitinthatinstant。Itwasdull，cold，livid，wax。Thebodyalso。

Therewasagreatdealofblood。Whenweleftthewindow，andwentcloseuptothescaffold，itwasverydirty；oneofthetwomenwhowerethrowingwateroverit，turningtohelptheotherliftthebodyintoashell，pickedhiswayasthroughmire。Astrangeappearancewastheapparentannihilationoftheneck。Theheadwastakenoffsoclose，thatitseemedasiftheknifehadnarrowlyescapedcrushingthejaw，orshavingofftheear；andthebodylookedasiftherewerenothingleftabovetheshoulder。

Nobodycared，orwasatallaffected。Therewasnomanifestationofdisgust，orpity，orindignation，orsorrow。Myemptypocketsweretried，severaltimes，inthecrowdimmediatelybelowthescaffold，asthecorpsewasbeingputintoitscoffin。Itwasanugly，filthy，careless，sickeningspectacle；meaningnothingbutbutcherybeyondthemomentaryinterest，totheonewretchedactor。

Yes！Suchasighthasonemeaningandonewarning。Letmenotforgetit。Thespeculatorsinthelottery，stationthemselvesatfavourablepointsforcountingthegoutsofbloodthatspirtout，hereorthere；andbuythatnumber。Itisprettysuretohavearunuponit。

Thebodywascartedawayinduetime，theknifecleansed，thescaffoldtakendown，andallthehideousapparatusremoved。Theexecutioner:anoutlawEXOFFICIO(whatasatireonthePunishment！)whodarenot，forhislife，crosstheBridgeofSt。

Angelobuttodohiswork:retreatedtohislair，andtheshowwasover。

AttheheadofthecollectionsinthepalacesofRome，theVatican，ofcourse，withitstreasuresofart，itsenormousgalleries，andstaircases，andsuitesuponsuitesofimmensechambers，rankshighestandstandsforemost。Manymostnoblestatues，andwonderfulpictures，arethere；norisitheresytosaythatthereisaconsiderableamountofrubbishthere，too。Whenanyoldpieceofsculpturedugoutoftheground，findsaplaceinagallerybecauseitisold，andwithoutanyreferencetoitsintrinsicmerits:andfindsadmirersbythehundred，becauseitisthere，andfornootherreasononearth:therewillbenolackofobjects，veryindifferentintheplaineyesightofanyonewhoemployssovulgaraproperty，whenhemaywearthespectaclesofCantforlessthannothing，andestablishhimselfasamanoftasteforthemeretroubleofputtingthemon。

Iunreservedlyconfess，formyself，thatIcannotleavemynaturalperceptionofwhatisnaturalandtrue，atapalace-door，inItalyorelsewhere，asIshouldleavemyshoesifIweretravellingintheEast。Icannotforgetthattherearecertainexpressionsofface，naturaltocertainpassions，andasunchangeableintheirnatureasthegaitofalion，ortheflightofaneagle。Icannotdismissfrommycertainknowledge，suchcommonplacefactsastheordinaryproportionofmen"sarms，andlegs，andheads；andwhenI

meetwithperformancesthatdoviolencetotheseexperiencesandrecollections，nomatterwheretheymaybe，Icannothonestlyadmirethem，andthinkitbesttosayso；inspiteofhighcriticaladvicethatweshouldsometimesfeignanadmiration，thoughwehaveitnot。

Therefore，IfreelyacknowledgethatwhenIseeajollyyoungWatermanrepresentingacherubim，oraBarclayandPerkins"sDraymandepictedasanEvangelist，Iseenothingtocommendoradmireintheperformance，howevergreatitsreputedPainter。

NeitheramIpartialtolibellousAngels，whoplayonfiddlesandbassoons，fortheedificationofsprawlingmonksapparentlyinliquor。NortothoseMonsieurTonsonsofgalleries，SaintFrancisandSaintSebastian；bothofwhomIsubmitshouldhaveveryuncommonandraremerits，asworksofart，tojustifytheircompoundmultiplicationbyItalianPainters。

Itseemstome，too，thattheindiscriminateanddeterminedrapturesinwhichsomecriticsindulge，isincompatiblewiththetrueappreciationofthereallygreatandtranscendentworks。I

cannotimagine，forexample，howtheresolutechampionofundeservingpicturescansoartotheamazingbeautyofTitian"sgreatpictureoftheAssumptionoftheVirginatVenice；orhowthemanwhoistrulyaffectedbythesublimityofthatexquisiteproduction，orwhoistrulysensibleofthebeautyofTintoretto"sgreatpictureoftheAssemblyoftheBlessedinthesameplace，candiscerninMichaelAngelo"sLastJudgment，intheSistinechapel，anygeneralidea，oronepervadingthought，inharmonywiththestupendoussubject。HewhowillcontemplateRaphael"smasterpiece，theTransfiguration，andwillgoawayintoanotherchamberofthatsameVatican，andcontemplateanotherdesignofRaphael，representing(inincrediblecaricature)themiraculousstoppingofagreatfirebyLeotheFourth-andwhowillsaythatheadmiresthemboth，asworksofextraordinarygenius-must，asIthink，bewantinginhispowersofperceptioninoneofthetwoinstances，and，probably，inthehighandloftyone。

Itiseasytosuggestadoubt，butIhaveagreatdoubtwhether，sometimes，therulesofartarenottoostrictlyobserved，andwhetheritisquitewelloragreeablethatweshouldknowbeforehand，wherethisfigurewillbeturninground，andwherethatfigurewillbelyingdown，andwheretherewillbedraperyinfolds，andsoforth。WhenIobserveheadsinferiortothesubject，inpicturesofmerit，inItaliangalleries，IdonotattachthatreproachtothePainter，forIhaveasuspicionthatthesegreatmen，whowere，ofnecessity，verymuchinthehandsofmonksandpriests，paintedmonksandpriestsagreatdealtoooften。I

frequentlysee，inpicturesofrealpower，headsquitebelowthestoryandthepainter:andIinvariablyobservethatthoseheadsareoftheConventstamp，andhavetheircounterpartsamongtheConventinmatesofthishour；so，Ihavesettledwithmyselfthat，insuchcases，thelamenesswasnotwiththepainter，butwiththevanityandignoranceofcertainofhisemployers，whowouldbeapostles-oncanvas，atallevents。

TheexquisitegraceandbeautyofCanova"sstatues；thewonderfulgravityandreposeofmanyoftheancientworksinsculpture，bothintheCapitolandtheVatican；andthestrengthandfireofmanyothers；are，intheirdifferentways，beyondallreachofwords。

Theyareespeciallyimpressiveanddelightful，aftertheworksofBerniniandhisdisciples，inwhichthechurchesofRome，fromSt。

Peter"sdownward，abound；andwhichare，Iverilybelieve，themostdetestableclassofproductionsinthewideworld。Iwouldinfinitelyrather(asmereworksofart)lookuponthethreedeitiesofthePast，thePresent，andtheFuture，intheChineseCollection，thanuponthebestofthesebreezymaniacs；whoseeveryfoldofdraperyisblowninside-out；whosesmallestvein，orartery，isasbigasanordinaryforefinger；whosehairislikeanestoflivelysnakes；andwhoseattitudesputallotherextravagancetoshame。InsomuchthatIdohonestlybelieve，therecanbenoplaceintheworld，wheresuchintolerableabortions，begottenofthesculptor"schisel，aretobefoundinsuchprofusion，asinRome。

ThereisafinecollectionofEgyptianantiquities，intheVatican；

andtheceilingsoftheroomsinwhichtheyarearranged，arepaintedtorepresentastarlightskyintheDesert。Itmayseemanoddidea，butitisveryeffective。Thegrim，half-humanmonstersfromthetemples，lookmoregrimandmonstrousunderneaththedeepdarkblue；itshedsastrangeuncertaingloomyaironeverything-

amysteryadaptedtotheobjects；andyouleavethem，asyoufindthem，shroudedinasolemnnight。

Intheprivatepalaces，picturesareseentothebestadvantage。

Thereareseldomsomanyinoneplacethattheattentionneedbecomedistracted，ortheeyeconfused。Youseethemveryleisurely；andarerarelyinterruptedbyacrowdofpeople。Thereareportraitsinnumerable，byTitian，andRembrandt，andVandyke；

headsbyGuido，andDomenichino，andCarloDolci；varioussubjectsbyCorreggio，andMurillo，andRaphael，andSalvatorRosa，andSpagnoletto-manyofwhichitwouldbedifficult，indeed，topraisetoohighly，ortopraiseenough；suchistheirtendernessandgrace；theirnobleelevation，purity，andbeauty。

TheportraitofBeatricediCenci，inthePalazzoBerberini，isapicturealmostimpossibletobeforgotten。Throughthetranscendentsweetnessandbeautyoftheface，thereisasomethingshiningout，thathauntsme。Iseeitnow，asIseethispaper，ormypen。Theheadislooselydrapedinwhite；thelighthairfallingdownbelowthelinenfolds。Shehasturnedsuddenlytowardsyou；andthereisanexpressionintheeyes-althoughtheyareverytenderandgentle-asifthewildnessofamomentaryterror，ordistraction，hadbeenstruggledwithandovercome，thatinstant；andnothingbutacelestialhope，andabeautifulsorrow，andadesolateearthlyhelplessnessremained。SomestoriessaythatGuidopaintedit，thenightbeforeherexecution；someotherstories，thathepainteditfrommemory，afterhavingseenher，onherwaytothescaffold。Iamwillingtobelievethat，asyouseeheronhiscanvas，sosheturnedtowardshim，inthecrowd，fromthefirstsightoftheaxe，andstampeduponhismindalookwhichhehasstampedonmineasthoughIhadstoodbesidehimintheconcourse。TheguiltypalaceoftheCenci:blightingawholequarterofthetown，asitstandswitheringawaybygrains:hadthatface，tomyfancy，initsdismalporch，andatitsblack，blindwindows，andflittingupanddownitsdrearystairs，andgrowingoutofthedarknessoftheghostlygalleries。TheHistoryiswritteninthePainting；written，inthedyinggirl"sface，byNature"sownhand。Andoh！howinthatonetouchsheputstoflight(insteadofmakingkin)thepunyworldthatclaimtoberelatedtoher，inrightofpoorconventionalforgeries！

IsawinthePalazzoSpada，thestatueofPompey；thestatueatwhosebaseCaesarfell。Astern，tremendousfigure！Iimaginedoneofgreaterfinish:ofthelastrefinement:fullofdelicatetouches:losingitsdistinctness，inthegiddyeyesofonewhosebloodwasebbingbeforeit，andsettlingintosomesuchrigidmajestyasthis，asDeathcamecreepingovertheupturnedface。

TheexcursionsintheneighbourhoodofRomearecharming，andwouldbefullofinterestwereitonlyforthechangingviewstheyafford，ofthewildCampagna。But，everyinchofground，ineverydirection，isrichinassociations，andinnaturalbeauties。ThereisAlbano，withitslovelylakeandwoodedshore，andwithitswine，thatcertainlyhasnotimprovedsincethedaysofHorace，andinthesetimeshardlyjustifieshispanegyric。ThereissqualidTivoli，withtheriverAnio，divertedfromitscourse，andplungingdown，headlong，someeightyfeetinsearchofit。WithitspicturesqueTempleoftheSibyl，perchedhighonacrag；itsminorwaterfallsglancingandsparklinginthesun；andonegoodcavernyawningdarkly，wheretherivertakesafearfulplungeandshootson，lowdownunderbeetlingrocks。There，too，istheVillad"Este，desertedanddecayingamonggrovesofmelancholypineandcypresstrees，whereitseemstolieinstate。Then，thereisFrascati，and，onthesteepaboveit，theruinsofTusculum，whereCicerolived，andwrote，andadornedhisfavouritehouse(somefragmentsofitmayyetbeseenthere)，andwhereCatowasborn。

Wesawitsruinedamphitheatreonagrey，dullday，whenashrillMarchwindwasblowing，andwhenthescatteredstonesoftheoldcitylaystrewnaboutthelonelyeminence，asdesolateanddeadastheashesofalongextinguishedfire。

Onedaywewalkedout，alittlepartyofthree，toAlbano，fourteenmilesdistant；possessedbyagreatdesiretogotherebytheancientAppianway，longsinceruinedandovergrown。Westartedathalf-pastseveninthemorning，andwithinanhourorsowereoutupontheopenCampagna。Fortwelvemileswewentclimbingon，overanunbrokensuccessionofmounds，andheaps，andhills，ofruin。

Tombsandtemples，overthrownandprostrate；smallfragmentsofcolumns，friezes，pediments；greatblocksofgraniteandmarble；

moulderingarches，grass-grownanddecayed；ruinenoughtobuildaspaciouscityfrom；laystrewnaboutus。Sometimes，loosewalls，builtupfromthesefragmentsbytheshepherds，cameacrossourpath；sometimes，aditchbetweentwomoundsofbrokenstones，obstructedourprogress；sometimes，thefragmentsthemselves，rollingfrombeneathourfeet，madeitatoilsomemattertoadvance；butitwasalwaysruin。Now，wetrackedapieceoftheoldroad，abovetheground；nowtracedit，underneathagrassycovering，asifthatwereitsgrave；butallthewaywasruin。Inthedistance，ruinedaqueductswentstalkingontheirgiantcoursealongtheplain；andeverybreathofwindthatswepttowardsus，stirredearlyflowersandgrasses，springingup，spontaneously，onmilesofruin。Theunseenlarksaboveus，whoalonedisturbedtheawfulsilence，hadtheirnestsinruin；andthefierceherdsmen，cladinsheepskins，whonowandthenscowledoutuponusfromtheirsleepingnooks，werehousedinruin。TheaspectofthedesolateCampagnainonedirection，whereitwasmostlevel，remindedmeofanAmericanprairie；butwhatisthesolitudeofaregionwheremenhaveneverdwelt，tothatofaDesert，whereamightyracehavelefttheirfootprintsintheearthfromwhichtheyhavevanished；

wheretheresting-placesoftheirDead，havefallenliketheirDead；andthebrokenhour-glassofTimeisbutaheapofidledust！

Returning，bytheroad，atsunset！andlooking，fromthedistance，onthecoursewehadtakeninthemorning，Ialmostfeel(asIhadfeltwhenIfirstsawit，atthathour)asifthesunwouldneverriseagain，butlookeditslast，thatnight，uponaruinedworld。

TocomeagainonRome，bymoonlight，aftersuchanexpedition，isafittingclosetosuchaday。Thenarrowstreets，devoidoffoot-

ways，andchoked，ineveryobscurecorner，byheapsofdunghill-

rubbish，contrastsostrongly，intheircrampeddimensions，andtheirfilth，anddarkness，withthebroadsquarebeforesomehaughtychurch:inthecentreofwhich，ahieroglyphic-coveredobelisk，broughtfromEgyptinthedaysoftheEmperors，looksstrangelyontheforeignsceneaboutit；orperhapsanancientpillar，withitshonouredstatueoverthrown，supportsaChristiansaint:MarcusAureliusgivingplacetoPaul，andTrajantoSt。

Peter。Then，therearetheponderousbuildingsrearedfromthespoliationoftheColiseum，shuttingoutthemoon，likemountains:

whilehereandthere，arebrokenarchesandrentwalls，throughwhichitgushesfreely，asthelifecomespouringfromawound。

Thelittletownofmiserablehouses，walled，andshutinbybarredgates，isthequarterwheretheJewsarelockedupnightly，whentheclockstrikeseight-amiserableplace，denselypopulated，andreekingwithbadodours，butwherethepeopleareindustriousandmoney-getting。Intheday-time，asyoumakeyourwayalongthenarrowstreets，youseethemallatwork:uponthepavement，oftenerthanintheirdarkandfrouzyshops:furbishingoldclothes，anddrivingbargains。

Crossingfromthesepatchesofthickdarkness，outintothemoononcemore，thefountainofTrevi，wellingfromahundredjets，androllingovermimicrocks，issilverytotheeyeandear。Inthenarrowlittlethroatofstreet，beyond，abooth，dressedoutwithflaringlamps，andboughsoftrees，attractsagroupofsulkyRomansrounditssmokycoppersofhotbroth，andcauliflowerstew；

itstraysoffriedfish，anditsflasksofwine。Asyourattleroundthesharply-twistingcorner，alumberingsoundisheard。Thecoachmanstopsabruptly，anduncovers，asavancomesslowlyby，precededbyamanwhobearsalargecross；byatorch-bearer；andapriest:thelatterchauntingashegoes。ItistheDeadCart，withthebodiesofthepoor，ontheirwaytoburialintheSacredFieldoutsidethewalls，wheretheywillbethrownintothepitthatwillbecoveredwithastoneto-night，andsealedupforayear。

Butwhether，inthisride，youpassbyobelisks，orcolumnsancienttemples，theatres，houses，porticoes，orforums:itisstrangetosee，howeveryfragment，wheneveritispossible，hasbeenblendedintosomemodernstructure，andmadetoservesomemodernpurpose-

awall，adwelling-place，agranary，astable-someuseforwhichitneverwasdesigned，andassociatedwithwhichitcannototherwisethanlamelyassort。Itisstrangerstill，toseehowmanyruinsoftheoldmythology:howmanyfragmentsofobsoletelegendandobservance:havebeenincorporatedintotheworshipofChristianaltarshere；andhow，innumberlessrespects，thefalsefaithandthetruearefusedintoamonstrousunion。

Fromonepartofthecity，lookingoutbeyondthewalls，asquatandstuntedpyramid(theburial-placeofCaiusCestius)makesanopaquetriangleinthemoonlight。But，toanEnglishtraveller，itservestomarkthegraveofShelleytoo，whoseashesliebeneathalittlegardennearit。Nearerstill，almostwithinitsshadow，liethebonesofKeats，"whosenameiswritinwater，"thatshinesbrightlyinthelandscapeofacalmItaliannight。

TheHolyWeekinRomeissupposedtooffergreatattractionstoallvisitors；but，savingforthesightsofEasterSunday，IwouldcounselthosewhogotoRomeforitsowninterest，toavoiditatthattime。Theceremonies，ingeneral，areofthemosttediousandwearisomekind；theheatandcrowdateveryoneofthem，painfullyoppressive；thenoise，hubbub，andconfusion，quitedistracting。

Weabandonedthepursuitoftheseshows，veryearlyintheproceedings，andbetookourselvestotheRuinsagain。But，weplungedintothecrowdforashareofthebestofthesights；andwhatwesaw，Iwilldescribetoyou。

AttheSistinechapel，ontheWednesday，wesawverylittle，forbythetimewereachedit(thoughwewereearly)thebesiegingcrowdhadfilledittothedoor，andoverflowedintotheadjoininghall，wheretheywerestruggling，andsqueezing，andmutuallyexpostulating，andmakinggreatrusheseverytimealadywasbroughtoutfaint，asifatleastfiftypeoplecouldbeaccommodatedinhervacantstanding-room。Hanginginthedoorwayofthechapel，wasaheavycurtain，andthiscurtain，sometwentypeoplenearesttoit，intheiranxietytohearthechauntingoftheMiserere，werecontinuallypluckingat，inoppositiontoeachother，thatitmightnotfalldownandstiflethesoundofthevoices。Theconsequencewas，thatitoccasionedthemostextraordinaryconfusion，andseemedtowinditselfabouttheunwary，likeaSerpent。Now，aladywaswrappedupinit，andcouldn"tbeunwound。Now，thevoiceofastiflinggentlemanwasheardinsideit，beseechingtobeletout。Now，twomuffledarms，nomancouldsayofwhichsex，struggledinitasinasack。Now，itwascarriedbyarush，bodilyoverheadintothechapel，likeanawning。Now，itcameouttheotherway，andblindedoneofthePope"sSwissGuard，whohadarrived，thatmoment，tosetthingstorights。

Beingseatedatalittledistance，amongtwoorthreeofthePope"sgentlemen，whowereverywearyandcountingtheminutes-asperhapshisHolinesswastoo-wehadbetteropportunitiesofobservingthiseccentricentertainment，thanofhearingtheMiserere。Sometimes，therewasaswellofmournfulvoicesthatsoundedverypatheticandsad，anddiedaway，intoalowstrainagain；butthatwasallweheard。

Atanothertime，therewastheExhibitionofRelicsinSt。Peter"s，whichtookplaceatbetweensixandseveno"clockintheevening，andwasstrikingfromthecathedralbeingdarkandgloomy，andhavingagreatmanypeopleinit。Theplaceintowhichtherelicswerebrought，onebyone，byapartyofthreepriests，wasahighbalconynearthechiefaltar。Thiswastheonlylightedpartofthechurch。Therearealwaysahundredandtwelvelampsburningnearthealtar，andthereweretwotalltapers，besides，neartheblackstatueofSt。Peter；butthesewerenothinginsuchanimmenseedifice。Thegloom，andthegeneralupturningoffacestothebalcony，andtheprostrationoftruebelieversonthepavement，asshiningobjects，likepicturesorlooking-glasses，werebroughtoutandshown，hadsomethingeffectiveinit，despitetheverypreposterousmannerinwhichtheywereheldupforthegeneraledification，andthegreatelevationatwhichtheyweredisplayed；

whichonewouldthinkrathercalculatedtodiminishthecomfortderivablefromafullconvictionoftheirbeinggenuine。

OntheThursday，wewenttoseethePopeconveytheSacramentfromtheSistinechapel，todeposititintheCapellaPaolina，anotherchapelintheVatican；-aceremonyemblematicaloftheentombmentoftheSaviourbeforeHisResurrection。Wewaitedinagreatgallerywithagreatcrowdofpeople(three-fourthsofthemEnglish)foranhourorso，whiletheywerechauntingtheMiserere，intheSistinechapelagain。Bothchapelsopenedoutofthegallery；andthegeneralattentionwasconcentratedontheoccasionalopeningandshuttingofthedooroftheoneforwhichthePopewasultimatelybound。Noneoftheseopeningsdisclosedanythingmoretremendousthanamanonaladder，lightingagreatquantityofcandles；butateachandeveryopening，therewasaterrificrushmadeatthisladderandthisman，somethinglike(I

shouldthink)achargeoftheheavyBritishcavalryatWaterloo。

Themanwasneverbroughtdown，however，northeladder；foritperformedthestrangestanticsintheworldamongthecrowd-whereitwascarriedbytheman，whenthecandleswerealllighted；andfinallyitwasstuckupagainstthegallerywall，inaverydisorderlymanner，justbeforetheopeningoftheotherchapel，andthecommencementofanewchaunt，announcedtheapproachofhisHoliness。Atthiscrisis，thesoldiersoftheguard，whohadbeenpokingthecrowdintoallsortsofshapes，formeddownthegallery:

andtheprocessioncameup，betweenthetwolinestheymade。

Therewereafewchoristers，andthenagreatmanypriests，walkingtwoandtwo，andcarrying-thegood-lookingpriestsatleast-

theirlightedtapers，soastothrowthelightwithagoodeffectupontheirfaces:fortheroomwasdarkened。Thosewhowerenothandsome，orwhohadnotlongbeards，carriedTHEIRtapersanyhow，andabandonedthemselvestospiritualcontemplation。Meanwhile，thechauntingwasverymonotonousanddreary。Theprocessionpassedon，slowly，intothechapel，andthedroneofvoiceswenton，andcameon，withit，untilthePopehimselfappeared，walkingunderawhitesatincanopy，andbearingthecoveredSacramentinbothhands；cardinalsandcanonsclusteredroundhim，makingabrilliantshow。Thesoldiersoftheguardkneltdownashepassed；

allthebystandersbowed；andsohepassedonintothechapel:thewhitesatincanopybeingremovedfromoverhimatthedoor，andawhitesatinparasolhoistedoverhispooroldhead，inplaceofit。

Afewmorecouplesbroughtuptherear，andpassedintothechapelalso。Then，thechapeldoorwasshut；anditwasallover；andeverybodyhurriedoffheadlong，asforlifeordeath，toseesomethingelse，andsayitwasn"tworththetrouble。

Ithinkthemostpopularandmostcrowdedsight(exceptingthoseofEasterSundayandMonday，whichareopentoallclassesofpeople)

wasthePopewashingthefeetofThirteenmen，representingthetwelveapostles，andJudasIscariot。Theplaceinwhichthispiousofficeisperformed，isoneofthechapelsofSt。Peter"s，whichisgailydecoratedfortheoccasion；thethirteensitting，"allofarow，"onaveryhighbench，andlookingparticularlyuncomfortable，withtheeyesofHeavenknowshowmanyEnglish，French，Americans，Swiss，Germans，Russians，Swedes，Norwegians，andotherforeigners，nailedtotheirfacesallthetime。Theyarerobedinwhite；andontheirheadstheywearastiffwhitecap，likealargeEnglishporter-pot，withoutahandle。Eachcarriesinhishand，anosegay，ofthesizeofafinecauliflower；andtwoofthem，onthisoccasion，worespectacles；which，rememberingthecharacterstheysustained，Ithoughtadrollappendagetothecostume。Therewasagreateyetocharacter。St。Johnwasrepresentedbyagood-lookingyoungman。St。Peter，byagrave-lookingoldgentleman，withaflowingbrownbeard；andJudasIscariotbysuchanenormoushypocrite(Icouldnotmakeout，though，whethertheexpressionofhisfacewasrealorassumed)thatifhehadactedtheparttothedeathandhadgoneawayandhangedhimself，hewouldhaveleftnothingtobedesired。

Asthetwolargeboxes，appropriatedtoladiesatthissight，werefulltothethroat，andgettingnearwashopeless，wepostedoff，alongwithagreatcrowd，tobeintimeattheTable，wherethePope，inperson，waitsontheseThirteen；andafteraprodigiousstruggleattheVaticanstaircase，andseveralpersonalconflictswiththeSwissguard，thewholecrowdsweptintotheroom。Itwasalonggalleryhungwithdraperyofwhiteandred，withanothergreatboxforladies(whoareobligedtodressinblackattheseceremonies，andtowearblackveils)，aroyalboxfortheKingofNaplesandhisparty；andthetableitself，which，setoutlikeaballsupper，andornamentedwithgoldenfiguresoftherealapostles，wasarrangedonanelevatedplatformononesideofthegallery。Thecounterfeitapostles"knivesandforkswerelaidoutonthatsideofthetablewhichwasnearesttothewall，sothattheymightbestaredatagain，withoutletorhindrance。

Thebodyoftheroomwasfullofmalestrangers；thecrowdimmense；

theheatverygreat；andthepressuresometimesfrightful。Itwasatitsheight，whenthestreamcamepouringin，fromthefeet-

washing；andthenthereweresuchshrieksandoutcries，thatapartyofPiedmontesedragoonswenttotherescueoftheSwissguard，andhelpedthemtocalmthetumult。

Theladieswereparticularlyferocious，intheirstrugglesforplaces。Oneladyofmyacquaintancewasseizedroundthewaist，intheladies"box，byastrongmatron，andhoistedoutofherplace；

andtherewasanotherlady(inabackrowinthesamebox)whoimprovedherpositionbystickingalargepinintotheladiesbeforeher。

Thegentlemenaboutmewereremarkablyanxioustoseewhatwasonthetable；andoneEnglishmanseemedtohaveembarkedthewholeenergyofhisnatureinthedeterminationtodiscoverwhethertherewasanymustard。"ByJupiterthere"svinegar！"Iheardhimsaytohisfriend，afterhehadstoodontiptoeanimmensetime，andhadbeencrushedandbeatenonallsides。"Andthere"soil！Isawthemdistinctly，incruets！Cananygentleman，infrontthere，seemustardonthetable?Sir，willyouobligeme！DOyouseeaMustard-Pot?"

TheapostlesandJudasappearingontheplatform，aftermuchexpectation，weremarshalled，inline，infrontofthetable，withPeteratthetop；andagoodlongstarewastakenatthembythecompany，whiletwelveofthemtookalongsmellattheirnosegays，andJudas-movinghislipsveryobtrusively-engagedininwardprayer。Then，thePope，cladinascarletrobe，andwearingonhisheadaskull-capofwhitesatin，appearedinthemidstofacrowdofCardinalsandotherdignitaries，andtookinhishandalittlegoldenewer，fromwhichhepouredalittlewateroveroneofPeter"shands，whileoneattendantheldagoldenbasin；asecond，afinecloth；athird，Peter"snosegay，whichwastakenfromhimduringtheoperation。ThishisHolinessperformed，withconsiderableexpedition，oneverymanintheline(Judas，I

observed，tobeparticularlyovercomebyhiscondescension)；andthenthewholeThirteensatdowntodinner。GracesaidbythePope。Peterinthechair。

Therewaswhitewine，andredwine:andthedinnerlookedverygood。Thecoursesappearedinportions，oneforeachapostle:andthesebeingpresentedtothePope，byCardinalsupontheirknees，werebyhimhandedtotheThirteen。ThemannerinwhichJudasgrewmorewhite-liveredoverhisvictuals，andlanguished，withhisheadononeside，asifhehadnoappetite，defiesalldescription。

Peterwasagood，sound，oldman，andwentin，asthesayingis，"towin；"eatingeverythingthatwasgivenhim(hegotthebest:

beingfirstintherow)andsayingnothingtoanybody。Thedishesappearedtobechieflycomposedoffishandvegetables。ThePopehelpedtheThirteentowinealso；and，duringthewholedinner，somebodyreadsomethingaloud，outofalargebook-theBible，I

presume-whichnobodycouldhear，andtowhichnobodypaidtheleastattention。TheCardinals，andotherattendants，smiledtoeachother，fromtimetotime，asifthethingwereagreatfarce；

andiftheythoughtso，thereislittledoubttheywereperfectlyright。HisHolinessdidwhathehadtodo，asasensiblemangetsthroughatroublesomeceremony，andseemedverygladwhenitwasallover。

ThePilgrims"Suppers:wherelordsandladieswaitedonthePilgrims，intokenofhumility，anddriedtheirfeetwhentheyhadbeenwellwashedbydeputy:wereveryattractive。But，ofallthemanyspectaclesofdangerousrelianceonoutwardobservances，inthemselvesmereemptyforms，nonestruckmehalfsomuchastheScalaSanta，orHolyStaircase，whichIsawseveraltimes，buttothegreatestadvantage，ordisadvantage，onGoodFriday。

Thisholystaircaseiscomposedofeight-and-twentysteps，saidtohavebelongedtoPontiusPilate"shouseandtobetheidenticalstaironwhichOurSaviourtrod，incomingdownfromthejudgment-

seat。Pilgrimsascendit，onlyontheirknees。Itissteep；and，atthesummit，isachapel，reportedtobefullofrelics；intowhichtheypeepthroughsomeironbars，andthencomedownagain，byoneoftwosidestaircases，whicharenotsacred，andmaybewalkedon。

OnGoodFriday，therewere，onamoderatecomputation，ahundredpeople，slowlyshufflingupthesestairs，ontheirknees，atonetime；whileothers，whoweregoingup，orhadcomedown-andafewwhohaddoneboth，andweregoingupagainforthesecondtime-

stoodloiteringintheporchbelow，whereanoldgentlemaninasortofwatch-box，rattledatincanister，withaslitinthetop，incessantly，toremindthemthathetookthemoney。Themajoritywerecountry-people，maleandfemale。TherewerefourorfiveJesuitpriests，however，andsomehalf-dozenwell-dressedwomen。A

wholeschoolofboys，twentyatleast，wereabouthalf-wayup-

evidentlyenjoyingitverymuch。Theywereallwedgedtogether，prettyclosely；buttherestofthecompanygavetheboysaswideaberthaspossible，inconsequenceoftheirbetrayingsomerecklessnessinthemanagementoftheirboots。

Inever，inmylife，sawanythingatoncesoridiculous，andsounpleasant，asthissight-ridiculousintheabsurdincidentsinseparablefromit；andunpleasantinitssenselessandunmeaningdegradation。Therearetwostepstobeginwith，andthenaratherbroadlanding。Themorerigidclimberswentalongthislandingontheirknees，aswellasupthestairs；andthefigurestheycut，intheirshufflingprogressoverthelevelsurface，nodescriptioncanpaint。Then，toseethemwatchtheiropportunityfromtheporch，andcutinwheretherewasaplacenextthewall！Andtoseeonemanwithanumbrella(broughtonpurpose，foritwasafineday)

hoistinghimself，unlawfully，fromstairtostair！Andtoobserveademureladyoffifty-fiveorso，lookingback，everynowandthen，toassureherselfthatherlegswereproperlydisposed！

Thereweresuchodddifferencesinthespeedofdifferentpeople，too。Somegotonasiftheyweredoingamatchagainsttime；

othersstoppedtosayaprayeroneverystep。Thismantouchedeverystairwithhisforehead，andkissedit；thatmanscratchedhisheadalltheway。Theboysgotonbrilliantly，andwereupanddownagainbeforetheoldladyhadaccomplishedherhalf-dozenstairs。Butmostofthepenitentscamedown，verysprightlyandfresh，ashavingdonearealgoodsubstantialdeedwhichitwouldtakeagooddealofsintocounterbalance；andtheoldgentlemaninthewatch-boxwasdownuponthemwithhiscanisterwhiletheywereinthishumour，Ipromiseyou。

Asifsuchaprogresswerenotinitsnatureinevitablydrollenough，therelay，onthetopofthestairs，awoodenfigureonacrucifix，restingonasortofgreatironsaucer:soricketyandunsteady，thatwheneveranenthusiasticpersonkissedthefigure，withmorethanusualdevotion，orthrewacoinintothesaucer，withmorethancommonreadiness(foritservedinthisrespectasasecondorsupplementarycanister)，itgaveagreatleapandrattle，andnearlyshooktheattendantlampout:horriblyfrighteningthepeoplefurtherdown，andthrowingtheguiltypartyintounspeakableembarrassment。

OnEasterSunday，aswellasontheprecedingThursday，thePopebestowshisbenedictiononthepeople，fromthebalconyinfrontofSt。Peter"s。ThisEasterSundaywasadaysobrightandblue:socloudless，balmy，wonderfullybright:thatallthepreviousbadweathervanishedfromtherecollectioninamoment。IhadseentheThursday"sBenedictiondroppingdamplyonsomehundredsofumbrellas，buttherewasnotasparklethen，inallthehundredfountainsofRome-suchfountainsastheyare！-andonthisSundaymorningtheywererunningdiamonds。Themilesofmiserablestreetsthroughwhichwedrove(compelledtoacertaincoursebythePope"sdragoons:theRomanpoliceonsuchoccasions)weresofullofcolour，thatnothinginthemwascapableofwearingafadedaspect。Thecommonpeoplecameoutintheirgayestdresses；thericherpeopleintheirsmartestvehicles；CardinalsrattledtothechurchofthePoorFishermenintheirstatecarriages；shabbymagnificenceflaunteditsthread-bareliveriesandtarnishedcockedhats，inthesun；andeverycoachinRomewasputinrequisitionfortheGreatPiazzaofSt。Peter"s。

Onehundredandfiftythousandpeoplewerethereatleast！Yettherewasampleroom。Howmanycarriageswerethere，Idon"tknow；

yettherewasroomforthemtoo，andtospare。Thegreatstepsofthechurchweredenselycrowded。ThereweremanyoftheContadini，fromAlbano(whodelightinred)，inthatpartofthesquare，andtheminglingofbrightcoloursinthecrowdwasbeautiful。Belowthestepsthetroopswereranged。Inthemagnificentproportionsoftheplacetheylookedlikeabedofflowers。SulkyRomans，livelypeasantsfromtheneighbouringcountry，groupsofpilgrimsfromdistantpartsofItaly，sight-seeingforeignersofallnations，madeamurmurintheclearair，likesomanyinsects；andhighabovethemall，plashingandbubbling，andmakingrainbowcoloursinthelight，thetwodeliciousfountainswelledandtumbledbountifully。

Akindofbrightcarpetwashungoverthefrontofthebalcony；andthesidesofthegreatwindowwerebedeckedwithcrimsondrapery。

Anawningwasstretched，too，overthetop，toscreentheoldmanfromthehotraysofthesun。Asnoonapproached，alleyeswereturneduptothiswindow。Induetime，thechairwasseenapproachingtothefront，withthegiganticfansofpeacock"sfeathers，closebehind。Thedollwithinit(forthebalconyisveryhigh)thenroseup，andstretchedoutitstinyarms，whileallthemalespectatorsinthesquareuncovered，andsome，butnotbyanymeansthegreaterpart，kneeleddown。ThegunsupontherampartsoftheCastleofSt。Angeloproclaimed，nextmoment，thatthebenedictionwasgiven；drumsbeat；trumpetssounded；armsclashed；andthegreatmassbelow，suddenlybreakingintosmallerheaps，andscatteringhereandthereinrills，wasstirredlikeparti-colouredsand。

Whatabrightnoonitwas，aswerodeaway！TheTiberwasnolongeryellow，butblue。Therewasablushontheoldbridges，thatmadethemfreshandhaleagain。ThePantheon，withitsmajesticfront，allseamedandfurrowedlikeanoldface，hadsummerlightuponitsbatteredwalls。EverysqualidanddesolatehutintheEternalCity(bearwitnesseverygrimoldpalace，tothefilthandmiseryoftheplebeianneighbourthatelbowsit，ascertainasTimehaslaiditsgriponitspatricianhead！)wasfreshandnewwithsomerayofthesun。Theveryprisoninthecrowdedstreet，awhirlofcarriagesandpeople，hadsomestraysenseoftheday，droppingthroughitschinksandcrevices:anddismalprisonerswhocouldnotwindtheirfacesroundthebarricadingoftheblocked-upwindows，stretchedouttheirhands，andclingingtotherustybars，turnedTHEMtowardstheoverflowingstreet:asifitwereacheerfulfire，andcouldbesharedin，thatway。

But，whenthenightcameon，withoutacloudtodimthefullmoon，whatasightitwastoseetheGreatSquarefulloncemore，andthewholechurch，fromthecrosstotheground，lightedwithinnumerablelanterns，tracingoutthearchitecture，andwinkingandshiningallroundthecolonnadeofthepiazza！Andwhatasenseofexultation，joy，delight，itwas，whenthegreatbellstruckhalf-

pastseven-ontheinstant-tobeholdonebrightredmassoffire，soargallantlyfromthetopofthecupolatotheextremestsummitofthecross，andthemomentitleapedintoitsplace，becomethesignalofaburstingoutofcountlesslights，asgreat，andred，andblazingasitself，fromeverypartofthegiganticchurch；sothateverycornice，capital，andsmallestornamentofstone，expresseditselfinfire:andtheblack，solidgroundworkoftheenormousdomeseemedtogrowtransparentasanegg-shell！

Atrainofgunpowder，anelectricchain-nothingcouldbefired，moresuddenlyandswiftly，thanthissecondillumination；andwhenwehadgotaway，andgoneuponadistantheight，andlookedtowardsittwohoursafterwards，thereitstillstood，shiningandglitteringinthecalmnightlikeajewel！Notalineofitsproportionswanting；notanangleblunted；notanatomofitsradiancelost。

Thenextnight-EasterMonday-therewasagreatdisplayoffireworksfromtheCastleofSt。Angelo。Wehiredaroominanoppositehouse，andmadeourway，toourplaces，ingoodtime，throughadensemobofpeoplechokingupthesquareinfront，andalltheavenuesleadingtoit；andsoloadingthebridgebywhichthecastleisapproached，thatitseemedreadytosinkintotherapidTiberbelow。Therearestatuesonthisbridge(execrableworks)，and，amongthem，greatvesselsfullofburningtowwereplaced:glaringstrangelyonthefacesofthecrowd，andnotlessstrangelyonthestonecounterfeitsabovethem。

Theshowbeganwithatremendousdischargeofcannon；andthen，fortwentyminutesorhalfanhour，thewholecastlewasoneincessantsheetoffire，andlabyrinthofblazingwheelsofeverycolour，size，andspeed:whilerocketsstreamedintothesky，notbyonesortwos，orscores，buthundredsatatime。Theconcludingburst-

theGirandola-wasliketheblowingupintotheairofthewholemassivecastle，withoutsmokeordust。

Inhalfanhourafterwards，theimmenseconcoursehaddispersed；

themoonwaslookingcalmlydownuponherwrinkledimageintheriver；andhalf-a-dozenmenandboys，withbitsoflightedcandleintheirhands:movinghereandthere，insearchofanythingworthhaving，thatmighthavebeendroppedinthepress:hadthewholescenetothemselves。

BywayofcontrastwerodeoutintooldruinedRome，afterallthisfiringandbooming，totakeourleaveoftheColiseum。Ihadseenitbymoonlightbefore(Icouldnevergetthroughadaywithoutgoingbacktoit)，butitstremendoussolitudethatnightispastalltelling。TheghostlypillarsintheForum；theTriumphalArchesofOldEmperors；thoseenormousmassesofruinswhichwereoncetheirpalaces；thegrass-grownmoundsthatmarkthegravesofruinedtemples；thestonesoftheViaSacra，smoothwiththetreadoffeetinancientRome；eventheseweredimmed，intheirtranscendentmelancholy，bythedarkghostofitsbloodyholidays，erectandgrim；hauntingtheoldscene；despoiledbypillagingPopesandfightingPrinces，butnotlaid；wringingwildhandsofweed，andgrass，andbramble；andlamentingtothenightineverygapandbrokenarch-theshadowofitsawfulself，immovable！

AswelaydownonthegrassoftheCampagna，nextday，onourwaytoFlorence，hearingthelarkssing，wesawthatalittlewoodencrosshadbeenerectedonthespotwherethepoorPilgrimCountesswasmurdered。So，wepiledsomeloosestonesaboutit，asthebeginningofamoundtohermemory，andwonderedifweshouldeverrestthereagain，andlookbackatRome。

CHAPTERXI-ARAPIDDIORAMA

WEareboundforNaples！AndwecrossthethresholdoftheEternalCityatyondergate，theGateofSanGiovanniLaterano，wherethetwolastobjectsthatattractthenoticeofadepartingvisitor，andthetwofirstobjectsthatattractthenoticeofanarrivingone，areaproudchurchandadecayingruin-goodemblemsofRome。

OurwayliesovertheCampagna，whichlooksmoresolemnonabrightbluedaylikethis，thanbeneathadarkersky；thegreatextentofruinbeingplainertotheeye:andthesunshinethroughthearchesofthebrokenaqueducts，showingotherbrokenarchesshiningthroughtheminthemelancholydistance。Whenwehavetraversedit，andlookbackfromAlbano，itsdark，undulatingsurfaceliesbelowuslikeastagnantlake，orlikeabroad，dullLetheflowingroundthewallsofRome，andseparatingitfromalltheworld！HowoftenhavetheLegions，intriumphantmarch，goneglitteringacrossthatpurplewaste，sosilentandunpeoplednow！Howoftenhasthetrainofcaptiveslooked，withsinkinghearts，uponthedistantcity，andbehelditspopulationpouringout，tohailthereturnoftheirconqueror！Whatriot，sensualityandmurder，haverunmadinthevastpalacesnowheapsofbrickandshatteredmarble！Whatglareoffires，androarofpopulartumult，andwailofpestilenceandfamine，havecomesweepingoverthewildplainwherenothingisnowheardbutthewind，andwherethesolitarylizardsgambolunmolestedinthesun！

Thetrainofwine-cartsgoingintoRome，eachdrivenbyashaggypeasantrecliningbeneathalittlegipsy-fashionedcanopyofsheep-

skin，isendednow，andwegotoilingupintoahighercountrywheretherearetrees。ThenextdaybringsusonthePontineMarshes，wearilyflatandlonesome，andovergrownwithbrushwood，andswampedwithwater，butwithafineroadmadeacrossthem，shadedbyalong，longavenue。Hereandthere，wepassasolitaryguard-house；hereandthereahovel，deserted，andwalledup。Someherdsmenloiteronthebanksofthestreambesidetheroad，andsometimesaflat-bottomedboat，towedbyaman，comesripplingidlyalongit。Ahorsemanpassesoccasionally，carryingalongguncross-wiseonthesaddlebeforehim，andattendedbyfiercedogs；

butthereisnothingelseastirsavethewindandtheshadows，untilwecomeinsightofTerracina。

Howblueandbrightthesea，rollingbelowthewindowsoftheinnsofamousinrobberstories！Howpicturesquethegreatcragsandpointsofrockoverhangingto-morrow"snarrowroad，wheregalley-

slavesareworkinginthequarriesabove，andthesentinelswhoguardthemloungeonthesea-shore！Allnightthereisthemurmuroftheseabeneaththestars；and，inthemorning，justatdaybreak，theprospectsuddenlybecomingexpanded，asifbyamiracle，reveals-inthefardistance，acrosstheseathere！-

Napleswithitsislands，andVesuviusspoutingfire！Withinaquarterofanhour，thewholeisgoneasifitwereavisionintheclouds，andthereisnothingbuttheseaandsky。

TheNeapolitanfrontiercrossed，aftertwohours"travelling；andthehungriestofsoldiersandcustom-houseofficerswithdifficultyappeased；weenter，byagatelessportal，intothefirstNeapolitantown-Fondi。TakenoteofFondi，inthenameofallthatiswretchedandbeggarly。

Afilthychannelofmudandrefusemeandersdownthecentreofthemiserablestreets，fedbyobscenerivuletsthattricklefromtheabjecthouses。Thereisnotadoor，awindow，orashutter；notaroof，awall，apost，orapillar，inallFondi，butisdecayed，andcrazy，androttingaway。Thewretchedhistoryofthetown，withallitssiegesandpillagesbyBarbarossaandtherest，mighthavebeenactedlastyear。Howthegauntdogsthatsneakaboutthemiserablestreets，cometobealive，andundevouredbythepeople，isoneoftheenigmasoftheworld。