第4章
CHAPTERIX-TOROMEBYPISAANDSIENA
THEREisnothinginItaly，morebeautifultome，thanthecoast-
roadbetweenGenoaandSpezzia。Ononeside:sometimesfarbelow，sometimesnearlyonalevelwiththeroad，andoftenskirtedbybrokenrocksofmanyshapes:thereisthefreebluesea，withhereandthereapicturesquefeluccaglidingslowlyon；ontheothersideareloftyhills，ravinesbesprinkledwithwhitecottages，patchesofdarkolivewoods，countrychurcheswiththeirlightopentowers，andcountryhousesgailypainted。Oneverybankandknollbythewayside，thewildcactusandaloeflourishinexuberantprofusion；andthegardensofthebrightvillagesalongtheroad，areseen，allblushinginthesummer-timewithclustersoftheBelladonna，andarefragrantintheautumnandwinterwithgoldenorangesandlemons。
Someofthevillagesareinhabited，almostexclusively，byfishermen；anditispleasanttoseetheirgreatboatshauleduponthebeach，makinglittlepatchesofshade，wheretheylieasleep，orwherethewomenandchildrensitrompingandlookingouttosea，whiletheymendtheirnetsupontheshore。Thereisonetown，Camoglia，withitslittleharbouronthesea，hundredsoffeetbelowtheroad；wherefamiliesofmarinerslive，who，timeoutofmind，haveownedcoasting-vesselsinthatplace，andhavetradedtoSpainandelsewhere。Seenfromtheroadabove，itislikeatinymodelonthemarginofthedimpledwater，shininginthesun。
Descendedinto，bythewindingmule-tracks，itisaperfectminiatureofaprimitiveseafaringtown；thesaltest，roughest，mostpiraticallittleplacethateverwasseen。Greatrustyironringsandmooring-chains，capstans，andfragmentsofoldmastsandspars，chokeuptheway；hardyrough-weatherboats，andseamen"sclothing，flutterinthelittleharbouroraredrawnoutonthesunnystonestodry；ontheparapetoftherudepier，afewamphibious-lookingfellowslieasleep，withtheirlegsdanglingoverthewall，asthoughearthorwaterwereallonetothem，andiftheyslippedin，theywouldfloataway，dozingcomfortablyamongthefishes；thechurchisbrightwithtrophiesofthesea，andvotiveofferings，incommemorationofescapefromstormandshipwreck。Thedwellingsnotimmediatelyabuttingontheharbourareapproachedbyblindlowarchways，andbycrookedsteps，asifindarknessandindifficultyofaccesstheyshouldbelikeholdsofships，orinconvenientcabinsunderwater；andeverywhere，thereisasmelloffish，andsea-weed，andoldrope。
Thecoast-roadwhenceCamogliaisdescriedsofarbelow，isfamous，inthewarmseason，especiallyinsomepartsnearGenoa，forfire-
flies。Walkingthereonadarknight，Ihaveseenitmadeonesparklingfirmamentbythesebeautifulinsects:sothatthedistantstarswerepaleagainsttheflashandglitterthatspangledeveryolivewoodandhill-side，andpervadedthewholeair。
Itwasnotinsuchaseason，however，thatwetraversedthisroadonourwaytoRome。ThemiddleofJanuarywasonlyjustpast，anditwasverygloomyanddarkweather；verywetbesides。IncrossingthefinepassofBracco，weencounteredsuchastormofmistandrain，thatwetravelledinacloudthewholeway。TheremighthavebeennoMediterraneanintheworld，foranythingthatwesawofitthere，exceptwhenasuddengustofwind，clearingthemistbeforeit，foramoment，showedtheagitatedseaatagreatdepthbelow，lashingthedistantrocks，andspoutingupitsfoamfuriously。Therainwasincessant；everybrookandtorrentwasgreatlyswollen；
andsuchadeafeningleaping，androaring，andthunderingofwater，Ineverheardthelikeofinmylife。
Hence，whenwecametoSpezzia，wefoundthattheMagra，anunbridgedriveronthehigh-roadtoPisa，wastoohightobesafelycrossedintheFerryBoat，andwerefaintowaituntiltheafternoonofnextday，whenithad，insomedegree，subsided。
Spezzia，however，isagoodplacetotarryat；byreason，firstly，ofitsbeautifulbay；secondly，ofitsghostlyInn；thirdly，ofthehead-dressofthewomen，whowear，ononesideoftheirhead，asmalldoll"sstrawhat，stuckontothehair；whichiscertainlytheoddestandmostroguishhead-gearthateverwasinvented。
TheMagrasafelycrossedintheFerryBoat-thepassageisnotbyanymeansagreeable，whenthecurrentisswollenandstrong-wearrivedatCarrara，withinafewhours。Ingoodtimenextmorning，wegotsomeponies，andwentouttoseethemarblequarries。
Theyarefourorfivegreatglens，runningupintoarangeofloftyhills，untiltheycanrunnolonger，andarestoppedbybeingabruptlystrangledbyNature。Thequarries，"orcaves，"astheycallthemthere，aresomanyopenings，highupinthehills，oneithersideofthesepasses，wheretheyblastandexcavateformarble:whichmayturnoutgoodorbad:maymakeaman"sfortuneveryquickly，orruinhimbythegreatexpenseofworkingwhatisworthnothing。SomeofthesecaveswereopenedbytheancientRomans，andremainastheyleftthemtothishour。Manyothersarebeingworkedatthismoment；othersaretobebegunto-morrow，nextweek，nextmonth；othersareunbought，unthoughtof；andmarbleenoughformoreagesthanhavepassedsincetheplacewasresortedto，lieshiddeneverywhere:patientlyawaitingitstimeofdiscovery。
Asyoutoilandclamberuponeofthesesteepgorges(havingleftyourponysoddeninghisgirthsinwater，amileortwolowerdown)
youhear，everynowandthen，echoingamongthehills，inalowtone，moresilentthantheprevioussilence，amelancholywarningbugle，-asignaltotheminerstowithdraw。Then，thereisathundering，andechoingfromhilltohill，andperhapsasplashingupofgreatfragmentsofrockintotheair；andonyoutoilagainuntilsomeotherbuglesounds，inanewdirection，andyoustopdirectly，lestyoushouldcomewithintherangeofthenewexplosion。
Therewerenumbersofmen，workinghighupinthesehills-onthesides-clearingaway，andsendingdownthebrokenmassesofstoneandearth，tomakewayfortheblocksofmarblethathadbeendiscovered。Asthesecamerollingdownfromunseenhandsintothenarrowvalley，Icouldnothelpthinkingofthedeepglen(justthesamesortofglen)wheretheRocleftSindbadtheSailor；andwherethemerchantsfromtheheightsabove，flungdowngreatpiecesofmeatforthediamondstostickto。Therewerenoeagleshere，todarkenthesunintheirswoop，andpounceuponthem；butitwasaswildandfierceasiftherehadbeenhundreds。
Buttheroad，theroaddownwhichthemarblecomes，howeverimmensetheblocks！Thegeniusofthecountry，andthespiritofitsinstitutions，pavethatroad:repairit，watchit，keepitgoing！
Conceiveachannelofwaterrunningoverarockybed，besetwithgreatheapsofstoneofallshapesandsizes，windingdownthemiddleofthisvalley；andTHATbeingtheroad-becauseitwastheroadfivehundredyearsago！Imaginetheclumsycartsoffivehundredyearsago，beingusedtothishour，anddrawn，astheyusedtobe，fivehundredyearsago，byoxen，whoseancestorswereworntodeathfivehundredyearsago，astheirunhappydescendantsarenow，intwelvemonths，bythesufferingandagonyofthiscruelwork！Twopair，fourpair，tenpair，twentypair，tooneblock，accordingtoitssize；downitmustcome，thisway。Intheirstrugglingfromstonetostone，withtheirenormousloadsbehindthem，theydiefrequentlyuponthespot；andnottheyalone；fortheirpassionatedrivers，sometimestumblingdownintheirenergy，arecrushedtodeathbeneaththewheels。Butitwasgoodfivehundredyearsago，anditmustbegoodnow:andarailroaddownoneofthesesteeps(theeasiestthingintheworld)wouldbeflatblasphemy。
Whenwestoodaside，toseeoneofthesecarsdrawnbyonlyapairofoxen(forithadbutonesmallblockofmarbleonit)，comingdown，Ihailed，inmyheart，themanwhosatupontheheavyyoke，tokeepitontheneckofthepoorbeasts-andwhofacedbackwards:notbeforehim-astheveryDeviloftruedespotism。
Hehadagreatrodinhishand，withanironpoint；andwhentheycouldploughandforcetheirwaythroughtheloosebedofthetorrentnolonger，andcametoastop，hepokeditintotheirbodies，beatitontheirheads，screweditroundandroundintheirnostrils，gotthemonayardortwo，inthemadnessofintensepain；repeatedallthesepersuasions，withincreasedintensityofpurpose，whentheystoppedagain；gotthemon，oncemore；forcedandgoadedthemtoanabrupterpointofthedescent；andwhentheirwrithingandsmarting，andtheweightbehindthem，borethemplungingdowntheprecipiceinacloudofscatteredwater，whirledhisrodabovehishead，andgaveagreatwhoopandhallo，asifhehadachievedsomething，andhadnoideathattheymightshakehimoff，andblindlymashhisbrainsupontheroad，inthenoon-tideofhistriumph。
StandinginoneofthemanystudiiofCarrara，thatafternoon-foritisagreatworkshop，fullofbeautifully-finishedcopiesinmarble，ofalmosteveryfigure，group，andbust，weknow-itseemed，atfirst，sostrangetomethatthoseexquisiteshapes，repletewithgrace，andthought，anddelicaterepose，shouldgrowoutofallthistoil，andsweat，andtorture！ButIsoonfoundaparalleltoit，andanexplanationofit，ineveryvirtuethatspringsupinmiserableground，andeverygoodthingthathasitsbirthinsorrowanddistress。And，lookingoutofthesculptor"sgreatwindow，uponthemarblemountains，allredandglowinginthedeclineofday，butsternandsolemntothelast，Ithought，myGod！howmanyquarriesofhumanheartsandsouls，capableoffarmorebeautifulresults，areleftshutupandmoulderingaway:
whilepleasure-travellersthroughlife，averttheirfaces，astheypass，andshudderatthegloomandruggednessthatconcealthem！
ThethenreigningDukeofModena，towhomthisterritoryinpartbelonged，claimedtheprouddistinctionofbeingtheonlysovereigninEuropewhohadnotrecognisedLouis-PhilippeasKingoftheFrench！Hewasnotawag，butquiteinearnest。Hewasalsomuchopposedtorailroads；andifcertainlinesincontemplationbyotherpotentates，oneithersideofhim，hadbeenexecuted，wouldhaveprobablyenjoyedthesatisfactionofhavinganomnibusplyingtoandfroacrosshisnotveryvastdominions，toforwardtravellersfromoneterminustoanother。
Carrara，shutinbygreathills，isverypicturesqueandbold。Fewtouristsstaythere；andthepeoplearenearlyallconnected，inonewayorother，withtheworkingofmarble。Therearealsovillagesamongthecaves，wheretheworkmenlive。ItcontainsabeautifullittleTheatre，newlybuilt；anditisaninterestingcustomthere，toformthechorusoflabourersinthemarblequarries，whoareself-taughtandsingbyear。Iheardtheminacomicopera，andinanactof"Norma；"andtheyacquittedthemselvesverywell；unlikethecommonpeopleofItalygenerally，who(withsomeexceptionsamongtheNeapolitans)singvilelyoutoftune，andhaveverydisagreeablesingingvoices。
FromthesummitofaloftyhillbeyondCarrara，thefirstviewofthefertileplaininwhichthetownofPisalies-withLeghorn，apurplespotintheflatdistance-isenchanting。Norisitonlydistancethatlendsenchantmenttotheview；forthefruitfulcountry，andrichwoodsofolive-treesthroughwhichtheroadsubsequentlypasses，renderitdelightful。
ThemoonwasshiningwhenweapproachedPisa，andforalongtimewecouldsee，behindthewall，theleaningTower，allawryintheuncertainlight；theshadowyoriginaloftheoldpicturesinschool-books，settingforth"TheWondersoftheWorld。"Likemostthingsconnectedintheirfirstassociationswithschool-booksandschool-times，itwastoosmall。Ifeltitkeenly。ItwasnothinglikesohighabovethewallasIhadhoped。ItwasanotherofthemanydeceptionspractisedbyMr。Harris，Bookseller，atthecornerofSt。Paul"sChurchyard，London。HISTowerwasafiction，butthiswasareality-and，bycomparison，ashortreality。Still，itlookedverywell，andverystrange，andwasquiteasmuchoutoftheperpendicularasHarrishadrepresentedittobe。ThequietairofPisatoo；thebigguard-houseatthegate，withonlytwolittlesoldiersinit；thestreetswithscarcelyanyshowofpeopleinthem；andtheArno，flowingquaintlythroughthecentreofthetown；wereexcellent。So，IborenomaliceinmyheartagainstMr。
Harris(rememberinghisgoodintentions)，butforgavehimbeforedinner，andwentout，fullofconfidence，toseetheTowernextmorning。
Imighthaveknownbetter；but，somehow，Ihadexpectedtoseeit，castingitslongshadowonapublicstreetwherepeoplecameandwentallday。Itwasasurprisetometofinditinagraveretiredplace，apartfromthegeneralresort，andcarpetedwithsmoothgreenturf。But，thegroupofbuildings，clusteredonandaboutthisverdantcarpet:comprisingtheTower，theBaptistery，theCathedral，andtheChurchoftheCampoSanto:isperhapsthemostremarkableandbeautifulinthewholeworld；andfrombeingclusteredthere，together，awayfromtheordinarytransactionsanddetailsofthetown，theyhaveasingularlyvenerableandimpressivecharacter。Itisthearchitecturalessenceofaricholdcity，withallitscommonlifeandcommonhabitationspressedout，andfilteredaway。
SIMONDcomparestheTowertotheusualpictorialrepresentationsinchildren"sbooksoftheTowerofBabel。Itisahappysimile，andconveysabetterideaofthebuildingthanchaptersoflaboureddescription。Nothingcanexceedthegraceandlightnessofthestructure；nothingcanbemoreremarkablethanitsgeneralappearance。Inthecourseoftheascenttothetop(whichisbyaneasystaircase)，theinclinationisnotveryapparent；but，atthesummit，itbecomesso，andgivesonethesensationofbeinginashipthathasheeledover，throughtheactionofanebb-tide。TheeffectUPONTHELOWSIDE，sotospeak-lookingoverfromthegallery，andseeingtheshaftrecedetoitsbase-isverystartling；andIsawanervoustravellerholdontotheTowerinvoluntarily，afterglancingdown，asifhehadsomeideaofproppingitup。Theviewwithin，fromtheground-lookingup，asthroughaslantedtube-isalsoverycurious。Itcertainlyinclinesasmuchasthemostsanguinetouristcoulddesire。Thenaturalimpulseofninety-ninepeopleoutofahundred，whowereabouttoreclineuponthegrassbelowit，torest，andcontemplatetheadjacentbuildings，wouldprobablybe，nottotakeuptheirpositionundertheleaningside；itissoverymuchaslant。
ThemanifoldbeautiesoftheCathedralandBaptisteryneednorecapitulationfromme；thoughinthiscase，asinahundredothers，Ifinditdifficulttoseparatemyowndelightinrecallingthem，fromyourwearinessinhavingthemrecalled。ThereisapictureofSt。Agnes，byAndreadelSarto，intheformer，andthereareavarietyofrichcolumnsinthelatter，thattemptmestrongly。
Itis，Ihope，nobreachofmyresolutionnottobetemptedintoelaboratedescriptions，toremembertheCampoSanto；wheregrass-
growngravesareduginearthbroughtmorethansixhundredyearsago，fromtheHolyLand；andwherethereare，surroundingthem，suchcloisters，withsuchplayinglightsandshadowsfallingthroughtheirdelicatetraceryonthestonepavement，assurelythedullestmemorycouldneverforget。Onthewallsofthissolemnandlovelyplace，areancientfrescoes，verymuchobliteratedanddecayed，butverycurious。Asusuallyhappensinalmostanycollectionofpaintings，ofanysort，inItaly，wheretherearemanyheads，thereis，inoneofthem，astrikingaccidentallikenessofNapoleon。Atonetime，Iusedtopleasemyfancywiththespeculationwhethertheseoldpainters，attheirwork，hadaforebodingknowledgeofthemanwhowouldonedayarisetowreaksuchdestructionuponart:whosesoldierswouldmaketargetsofgreatpictures，andstabletheirhorsesamongtriumphsofarchitecture。ButthesameCorsicanfaceissoplentifulinsomepartsofItalyatthisday，thatamorecommonplacesolutionofthecoincidenceisunavoidable。
IfPisabetheseventhwonderoftheworldinrightofitsTower，itmayclaimtobe，atleast，thesecondorthirdinrightofitsbeggars。Theywaylaytheunhappyvisitorateveryturn，escorthimtoeverydoorheentersat，andlieinwaitforhim，withstrongreinforcements，ateverydoorbywhichtheyknowhemustcomeout。
Thegratingoftheportalonitshingesisthesignalforageneralshout，andthemomentheappears，heishemmedin，andfallenon，byheapsofragsandpersonaldistortions。ThebeggarsseemtoembodyallthetradeandenterpriseofPisa。Nothingelseisstirring，butwarmair。Goingthroughthestreets，thefrontsofthesleepyhouseslooklikebacks。Theyareallsostillandquiet，andunlikehouseswithpeopleinthem，thatthegreaterpartofthecityhastheappearanceofacityatdaybreak，orduringageneralsiestaofthepopulation。Oritisyetmorelikethosebackgroundsofhousesincommonprints，oroldengravings，wherewindowsanddoorsaresquarelyindicated，andonefigure(abeggarofcourse)isseenwalkingoffbyitselfintoillimitableperspective。
NotsoLeghorn(madeillustriousbySMOLLETT"Sgrave)，whichisathriving，business-like，matter-of-factplace，whereidlenessisshoulderedoutofthewaybycommerce。Theregulationsobservedthere，inreferencetotradeandmerchants，areveryliberalandfree；andthetown，ofcourse，benefitsbythem。Leghornhadabadnameinconnectionwithstabbers，andwithsomejusticeitmustbeallowed；for，notmanyyearsago，therewasanassassinationclubthere，themembersofwhichborenoill-willtoanybodyinparticular，butstabbedpeople(quitestrangerstothem)inthestreetsatnight，forthepleasureandexcitementoftherecreation。Ithinkthepresidentofthisamiablesocietywasashoemaker。Hewastaken，however，andtheclubwasbrokenup。Itwould，probably，havedisappearedinthenaturalcourseofevents，beforetherailroadbetweenLeghornandPisa，whichisagoodone，andhasalreadybeguntoastonishItalywithaprecedentofpunctuality，order，plaindealing，andimprovement-themostdangerousandhereticalastonisherofall。Theremusthavebeenaslightsensation，asofearthquake，surely，intheVatican，whenthefirstItalianrailroadwasthrownopen。
ReturningtoPisa，andhiringagood-temperedVetturino，andhisfourhorses，totakeusontoRome，wetravelledthroughpleasantTuscanvillagesandcheerfulsceneryallday。TheroadsidecrossesinthispartofItalyarenumerousandcurious。Thereisseldomafigureonthecross，thoughthereissometimesaface，buttheyareremarkableforbeinggarnishedwithlittlemodelsinwood，ofeverypossibleobjectthatcanbeconnectedwiththeSaviour"sdeath。
ThecockthatcrowedwhenPeterhaddeniedhisMasterthrice，isusuallyperchedonthetip-top；andanornithologicalphenomenonhegenerallyis。Underhim，istheinscription。Then，hungontothecross-beam，arethespear，thereedwiththespongeofvinegarandwaterattheend，thecoatwithoutseamforwhichthesoldierscastlots，thedice-boxwithwhichtheythrewforit，thehammerthatdroveinthenails，thepincersthatpulledthemout，theladderwhichwassetagainstthecross，thecrownofthorns，theinstrumentofflagellation，thelanthornwithwhichMarywenttothetomb(Isuppose)，andtheswordwithwhichPetersmotetheservantofthehighpriest，-aperfecttoy-shopoflittleobjects，repeatedateveryfourorfivemiles，allalongthehighway。
OntheeveningoftheseconddayfromPisa，wereachedthebeautifuloldcityofSiena。TherewaswhattheycalledaCarnival，inprogress；but，asitssecretlayinascoreortwoofmelancholypeoplewalkingupanddowntheprincipalstreetincommontoy-shopmasks，andbeingmoremelancholy，ifpossible，thanthesamesortofpeopleinEngland，Isaynomoreofit。Wewentoff，betimesnextmorning，toseetheCathedral，whichiswonderfullypicturesqueinsideandout，especiallythelatter-
alsothemarket-place，orgreatPiazza，whichisalargesquare，withagreatbroken-nosedfountaininit:somequaintGothichouses:andahighsquarebricktower；OUTSIDEthetopofwhich-
acuriousfeatureinsuchviewsinItaly-hangsanenormousbell。
ItislikeabitofVenice，withoutthewater。TherearesomecuriousoldPalazziinthetown，whichisveryancient；andwithouthaving(forme)theinterestofVerona，orGenoa，itisverydreamyandfantastic，andmostinteresting。
Wewentonagain，assoonaswehadseenthesethings，andgoingoveraratherbleakcountry(therehadbeennothingbutvinesuntilnow:merewalking-sticksatthatseasonoftheyear)，stopped，asusual，betweenoneandtwohoursinthemiddleoftheday，torestthehorses；thatbeingapartofeveryVetturinocontract。Wethenwentonagain，througharegiongraduallybecomingbleakerandwilder，untilitbecameasbareanddesolateasanyScottishmoors。
Soonafterdark，wehaltedforthenight，attheosteriaofLaScala:aperfectlylonehouse，wherethefamilyweresittingroundagreatfireinthekitchen，raisedonastoneplatformthreeorfourfeethigh，andbigenoughfortheroastingofanox。Ontheupper，andonlyotherfloorofthishotel，therewasagreat，wild，ramblingsala，withoneverylittlewindowinaby-corner，andfourblackdoorsopeningintofourblackbedroomsinvariousdirections。
Tosaynothingofanotherlargeblackdoor，openingintoanotherlargeblacksala，withthestaircasecomingabruptlythroughakindoftrap-doorinthefloor，andtheraftersoftheroofloomingabove:asuspiciouslittlepressskulkinginoneobscurecorner:
andalltheknivesinthehouselyingaboutinvariousdirections。
ThefireplacewasofthepurestItalianarchitecture，sothatitwasperfectlyimpossibletoseeitforthesmoke。Thewaitresswaslikeadramaticbrigand"swife，andworethesamestyleofdressuponherhead。Thedogsbarkedlikemad；theechoesreturnedthecomplimentsbestoweduponthem；therewasnotanotherhousewithintwelvemiles；andthingshadadreary，andratheracut-throat，appearance。
Theywerenotimprovedbyrumoursofrobbershavingcomeout，strongandboldly，withinafewnights；andoftheirhavingstoppedthemailverynearthatplace。Theywereknowntohavewaylaidsometravellersnotlongbefore，onMountVesuviusitself，andwerethetalkatalltheroadsideinns。Astheywerenobusinessofours，however(forwehadverylittlewithustolose)，wemadeourselvesmerryonthesubject，andwereverysoonascomfortableasneedbe。Wehadtheusualdinnerinthissolitaryhouse；andaverygooddinneritis，whenyouareusedtoit。Thereissomethingwithavegetableorsomericeinitwhichisasortofshorthandorarbitrarycharacterforsoup，andwhichtastesverywell，whenyouhaveflavoureditwithplentyofgratedcheese，lotsofsalt，andabundanceofpepper。Thereisthehalffowlofwhichthissouphasbeenmade。Thereisastewedpigeon，withthegizzardsandliversofhimselfandotherbirdsstuckallroundhim。
Thereisabitofroastbeef，thesizeofasmallFrenchroll。
ThereareascrapofParmesancheese，andfivelittlewitheredapples，allhuddledtogetheronasmallplate，andcrowdingoneupontheother，asifeachweretryingtosaveitselffromthechanceofbeingeaten。Thenthereiscoffee；andthenthereisbed。Youdon"tmindbrickfloors；youdon"tmindyawningdoors，norbangingwindows；youdon"tmindyourownhorsesbeingstabledunderthebed:andsoclose，thateverytimeahorsecoughsorsneezes，hewakesyou。Ifyouaregood-humouredtothepeopleaboutyou，andspeakpleasantly，andlookcheerful，takemywordforityoumaybewellentertainedintheveryworstItalianInn，andalwaysinthemostobligingmanner，andmaygofromoneendofthecountrytotheother(despiteallstoriestothecontrary)
withoutanygreattrialofyourpatienceanywhere。Especially，whenyougetsuchwineinflasks，astheOrvieto，andtheMontePulciano。
Itwasabadmorningwhenweleftthisplace；andwewent，fortwelvemiles，overacountryasbarren，asstony，andaswild，asCornwallinEngland，untilwecametoRadicofani，wherethereisaghostly，goblininn:onceahunting-seat，belongingtotheDukesofTuscany。Itisfullofsuchramblingcorridors，andgauntrooms，thatallthemurderingandphantomtalesthateverwerewrittenmighthaveoriginatedinthatonehouse。TherearesomehorribleoldPalazziinGenoa:oneinparticular，notunlikeit，outside:butthereisawinding，creaking，wormy，rustling，door-
opening，foot-on-staircase-fallingcharacteraboutthisRadicofaniHotel，suchasIneversaw，anywhereelse。Thetown，suchasitis，hangsonahill-sideabovethehouse，andinfrontofit。Theinhabitantsareallbeggars；andassoonastheyseeacarriagecoming，theyswoopdownuponit，likesomanybirdsofprey。
Whenwegotonthemountainpass，whichliesbeyondthisplace，thewind(astheyhadforewarnedusattheinn)wassoterrific，thatwewereobligedtotakemyotherhalfoutofthecarriage，lestsheshouldbeblownover，carriageandall，andtohangtoit，onthewindyside(aswellaswecouldforlaughing)，topreventitsgoing，Heavenknowswhere。Formereforceofwind，thisland-stormmighthavecompetedwithanAtlanticgale，andhadareasonablechanceofcomingoffvictorious。Theblastcamesweepingdowngreatgulliesinarangeofmountainsontheright:sothatwelookedwithpositiveaweatagreatmorassontheleft，andsawthattherewasnotabushortwigtoholdby。Itseemedasif，onceblownfromourfeet，wemustbesweptouttosea，orawayintospace。Therewassnow，andhail，andrain，andlightning，andthunder；andtherewererollingmists，travellingwithincrediblevelocity。Itwasdark，awful，andsolitarytothelastdegree；
thereweremountainsabovemountains，veiledinangryclouds；andtherewassuchawrathful，rapid，violent，tumultuoushurry，everywhere，asrenderedthesceneunspeakablyexcitingandgrand。
Itwasarelieftogetoutofit，notwithstanding；andtocrosseventhedismal，dirtyPapalFrontier。Afterpassingthroughtwolittletowns；inoneofwhich，Acquapendente，therewasalsoa"Carnival"inprogress:consistingofonemandressedandmaskedasawoman，andonewomandressedandmaskedasaman，walkingankle-deep，throughthemuddystreets，inaverymelancholymanner:
wecame，atdusk，withinsightoftheLakeofBolsena，onwhosebankthereisalittletownofthesamename，muchcelebratedformalaria。Withtheexceptionofthispoorplace，thereisnotacottageonthebanksofthelake，ornearit(fornobodydaresleepthere)；notaboatuponitswaters；notastickorstaketobreakthedismalmonotonyofseven-and-twentywaterymiles。Wewerelateingettingin，theroadsbeingverybadfromheavyrains；and，afterdark，thedulnessofthescenewasquiteintolerable。
Weenteredonaverydifferent，andafinersceneofdesolation，nextnight，atsunset。WehadpassedthroughMontefiaschone(famousforitswine)andViterbo(foritsfountains):andafterclimbingupalonghillofeightortenmiles"extent，camesuddenlyuponthemarginofasolitarylake:inonepartverybeautiful，withaluxuriantwood；inanother，verybarren，andshutinbybleakvolcanichills。Wherethislakeflows，therestood，ofold，acity。Itwasswalloweduponeday；andinitsstead，thiswaterrose。Thereareancienttraditions(commontomanypartsoftheworld)oftheruinedcityhavingbeenseenbelow，whenthewaterwasclear；buthoweverthatmaybe，fromthisspotofearthitvanished。Thegroundcamebubblingupaboveit；andthewatertoo；andheretheystand，likeghostsonwhomtheotherworldclosedsuddenly，andwhohavenomeansofgettingbackagain。Theyseemtobewaitingthecourseofages，forthenextearthquakeinthatplace；whentheywillplungebelowtheground，atitsfirstyawning，andbeseennomore。Theunhappycitybelow，isnotmorelostanddreary，thanthesefire-charredhillsandthestagnantwater，above。Theredsunlookedstrangelyonthem，aswiththeknowledgethattheyweremadeforcavernsanddarkness；andthemelancholywateroozedandsuckedthemud，andcreptquietlyamongthemarshygrassandreeds，asiftheoverthrowofalltheancienttowersandhouse-tops，andthedeathofalltheancientpeoplebornandbredthere，wereyetheavyonitsconscience。
Ashortridefromthislake，broughtustoRonciglione；alittletownlikealargepig-sty，wherewepassedthenight。Nextmorningatseveno"clock，westartedforRome。
Assoonaswewereoutofthepig-sty，weenteredontheCampagnaRomana；anundulatingflat(asyouknow)，wherefewpeoplecanlive；andwhere，formilesandmiles，thereisnothingtorelievetheterriblemonotonyandgloom。Ofallkindsofcountrythatcould，bypossibility，lieoutsidethegatesofRome，thisistheaptestandfittestburial-groundfortheDeadCity。Sosad，soquiet，sosullen；sosecretinitscoveringupofgreatmassesofruin，andhidingthem；solikethewasteplacesintowhichthemenpossessedwithdevilsusedtogoandhowl，andrendthemselves，intheolddaysofJerusalem。WehadtotraversethirtymilesofthisCampagna；andfortwo-and-twentywewentonandon，seeingnothingbutnowandthenalonelyhouse，oravillainous-lookingshepherd:
withmattedhairalloverhisface，andhimselfwrappedtothechininafrowsybrownmantle，tendinghissheep。Attheendofthatdistance，westoppedtorefreshthehorses，andtogetsomelunch，inacommonmalaria-shaken，despondentlittlepublic-house，whoseeveryinchofwallandbeam，inside，was(accordingtocustom)
paintedanddecoratedinawaysomiserablethateveryroomlookedlikethewrongsideofanotherroom，and，withitswretchedimitationofdrapery，andlop-sidedlittledaubsoflyres，seemedtohavebeenplunderedfrombehindthescenesofsometravellingcircus。
Whenwewerefairlygoingoffagain，webegan，inaperfectfever，tostrainoureyesforRome；andwhen，afteranothermileortwo，theEternalCityappeared，atlength，inthedistance；itlookedlike-Iamhalfafraidtowritetheword-likeLONDON！！！Thereitlay，underathickcloud，withinnumerabletowers，andsteeples，androofsofhouses，risingupintothesky，andhighabovethemall，oneDome。Iswear，thatkeenlyasIfelttheseemingabsurdityofthecomparison，itwassolikeLondon，atthatdistance，thatifyoucouldhaveshownitme，inaglass，Ishouldhavetakenitfornothingelse。
CHAPTERX-ROME
WEenteredtheEternalCity，ataboutfouro"clockintheafternoon，onthethirtiethofJanuary，bythePortadelPopolo，andcameimmediately-itwasadark，muddyday，andtherehadbeenheavyrain-ontheskirtsoftheCarnival。Wedidnot，then，knowthatwewereonlylookingatthefagendofthemasks，whoweredrivingslowlyroundandroundthePiazzauntiltheycouldfindapromisingopportunityforfallingintothestreamofcarriages，andgetting，ingoodtime，intothethickofthefestivity；andcomingamongthemsoabruptly，alltravel-stainedandweary，wasnotcomingverywellpreparedtoenjoythescene。
WehadcrossedtheTiberbythePonteMolletwoorthreemilesbefore。Ithadlookedasyellowasitoughttolook，andhurryingonbetweenitsworn-awayandmirybanks，hadapromisingaspectofdesolationandruin。ThemasqueradedressesonthefringeoftheCarnival，didgreatviolencetothispromise。Therewerenogreatruins，nosolemntokensofantiquity，tobeseen；-theyalllieontheothersideofthecity。Thereseemedtobelongstreetsofcommonplaceshopsandhouses，suchasaretobefoundinanyEuropeantown；therewerebusypeople，equipages，ordinarywalkerstoandfro；amultitudeofchatteringstrangers。ItwasnomoreMY
Rome:theRomeofanybody"sfancy，manorboy；degradedandfallenandlyingasleepinthesunamongaheapofruins:thanthePlacedelaConcordeinParisis。Acloudysky，adullcoldrain，andmuddystreets，Iwaspreparedfor，butnotforthis:andIconfesstohavinggonetobed，thatnight，inaveryindifferenthumour，andwithaveryconsiderablyquenchedenthusiasm。
Immediatelyongoingoutnextday，wehurriedofftoSt。Peter"s。
Itlookedimmenseinthedistance，butdistinctlyanddecidedlysmall，bycomparison，onanearapproach。ThebeautyofthePiazza，onwhichitstands，withitsclustersofexquisitecolumns，anditsgushingfountains-sofresh，sobroad，andfree，andbeautiful-nothingcanexaggerate。Thefirstburstoftheinterior，inallitsexpansivemajestyandglory:and，mostofall，thelookingupintotheDome:isasensationnevertobeforgotten。But，therewerepreparationsforaFesta；thepillarsofstatelymarblewereswathedinsomeimpertinentfripperyofredandyellow；thealtar，andentrancetothesubterraneanchapel:
whichisbeforeit:inthecentreofthechurch:werelikeagoldsmith"sshop，oroneoftheopeningscenesinaverylavishpantomime。AndthoughIhadashighasenseofthebeautyofthebuilding(Ihope)asitispossibletoentertain，Ifeltnoverystrongemotion。IhavebeeninfinitelymoreaffectedinmanyEnglishcathedralswhentheorganhasbeenplaying，andinmanyEnglishcountrychurcheswhenthecongregationhavebeensinging。
Ihadamuchgreatersenseofmysteryandwonder，intheCathedralofSanMarkatVenice。
Whenwecameoutofthechurchagain(westoodnearlyanhourstaringupintothedome:andwouldnothave"goneover"theCathedralthen，foranymoney)，wesaidtothecoachman，"GototheColiseum。"Inaquarterofanhourorso，hestoppedatthegate，andwewentin。
Itisnofiction，butplain，sober，honestTruth，tosay:sosuggestiveanddistinctisitatthishour:that，foramoment-
actuallyinpassingin-theywhowill，mayhavethewholegreatpilebeforethem，asitusedtobe，withthousandsofeagerfacesstaringdownintothearena，andsuchawhirlofstrife，andblood，anddustgoingonthere，asnolanguagecandescribe。Itssolitude，itsawfulbeauty，anditsutterdesolation，strikeuponthestrangerthenextmoment，likeasoftenedsorrow；andneverinhislife，perhaps，willhebesomovedandovercomebyanysight，notimmediatelyconnectedwithhisownaffectionsandafflictions。
Toseeitcrumblingthere，aninchayear；itswallsandarchesovergrownwithgreen；itscorridorsopentotheday；thelonggrassgrowinginitsporches；youngtreesofyesterday，springinguponitsraggedparapets，andbearingfruit:chanceproduceoftheseedsdroppedtherebythebirdswhobuildtheirnestswithinitschinksandcrannies；toseeitsPitofFightfilledupwithearth，andthepeacefulCrossplantedinthecentre；toclimbintoitsupperhalls，andlookdownonruin，ruin，ruin，allaboutit；thetriumphalarchesofConstantine，SeptimusSeverus，andTitus；theRomanForum；thePalaceoftheCaesars；thetemplesoftheoldreligion，fallendownandgone；istoseetheghostofoldRome，wicked，wonderfuloldcity，hauntingtheverygroundonwhichitspeopletrod。Itisthemostimpressive，themoststately，themostsolemn，grand，majestic，mournfulsight，conceivable。Never，initsbloodiestprime，canthesightofthegiganticColiseum，fullandrunningoverwiththelustiestlife，havemovedone"sheart，asitmustmoveallwholookuponitnow，aruin。GODbethanked:aruin！
Asittopstheotherruins:standingthere，amountainamonggraves:sodoitsancientinfluencesoutliveallotherremnantsoftheoldmythologyandoldbutcheryofRome，inthenatureofthefierceandcruelRomanpeople。TheItalianfacechangesasthevisitorapproachesthecity；itsbeautybecomesdevilish；andthereisscarcelyonecountenanceinahundred，amongthecommonpeopleinthestreets，thatwouldnotbeathomeandhappyinarenovatedColiseumto-morrow。
HerewasRomeindeedatlast；andsuchaRomeasnoonecanimagineinitsfullandawfulgrandeur！WewanderedoutupontheAppianWay，andthenwenton，throughmilesofruinedtombsandbrokenwalls，withhereandthereadesolateanduninhabitedhouse:pasttheCircusofRomulus，wherethecourseofthechariots，thestationsofthejudges，competitors，andspectators，areyetasplainlytobeseenasinoldtime:pastthetombofCeciliaMetella:pastallinclosure，hedge，orstake，wallorfence:awayupontheopenCampagna，whereonthatsideofRome，nothingistobebeheldbutRuin。ExceptwherethedistantApenninesboundtheviewupontheleft，thewholewideprospectisonefieldofruin。
Brokenaqueducts，leftinthemostpicturesqueandbeautifulclustersofarches；brokentemples；brokentombs。Adesertofdecay，sombreanddesolatebeyondallexpression；andwithahistoryineverystonethatstrewstheground。
OnSunday，thePopeassistedintheperformanceofHighMassatSt。
Peter"s。TheeffectoftheCathedralonmymind，onthatsecondvisit，wasexactlywhatitwasatfirst，andwhatitremainsaftermanyvisits。Itisnotreligiouslyimpressiveoraffecting。Itisanimmenseedifice，withnoonepointforthemindtorestupon；
andittiresitselfwithwanderingroundandround。Theverypurposeoftheplace，isnotexpressedinanythingyouseethere，unlessyouexamineitsdetails-andallexaminationofdetailsisincompatiblewiththeplaceitself。ItmightbeaPantheon，oraSenateHouse，oragreatarchitecturaltrophy，havingnootherobjectthananarchitecturaltriumph。ThereisablackstatueofSt。Peter，tobesure，underaredcanopy；whichislargerthanlifeandwhichisconstantlyhavingitsgreattoekissedbygoodCatholics。Youcannothelpseeingthat:itissoveryprominentandpopular。Butitdoesnotheightentheeffectofthetemple，asaworkofart；anditisnotexpressive-tomeatleast-ofitshighpurpose。
Alargespacebehindthealtar，wasfittedupwithboxes，shapedlikethoseattheItalianOperainEngland，butintheirdecorationmuchmoregaudy。Inthecentreofthekindoftheatrethusrailedoff，wasacanopieddaiswiththePope"schairuponit。Thepavementwascoveredwithacarpetofthebrightestgreen；andwhatwiththisgreen，andtheintolerableredsandcrimsons，andgoldbordersofthehangings，thewholeconcernlookedlikeastupendousBonbon。Oneithersideofthealtar，wasalargeboxforladystrangers。Thesewerefilledwithladiesinblackdressesandblackveils。ThegentlemenofthePope"sguard，inredcoats，leatherbreeches，andjack-boots，guardedallthisreservedspace，withdrawnswordsthatwereveryflashyineverysense；andfromthealtaralldownthenave，abroadlanewaskeptclearbythePope"sSwissguard，whowearaquaintstripedsurcoat，andstripedtightlegs，andcarryhalberdslikethosewhichareusuallyshoulderedbythosetheatricalsupernumeraries，whoneverCANgetoffthestagefastenough，andwhomaybegenerallyobservedtolingerintheenemy"scampaftertheopencountry，heldbytheoppositeforces，hasbeensplitupthemiddlebyaconvulsionofNature。
Igotupontheborderofthegreencarpet，incompanywithagreatmanyothergentlemen，attiredinblack(nootherpassportisnecessary)，andstoodthereatmyease，duringtheperformanceofMass。Thesingerswereinacribofwirework(likealargemeat-
safeorbird-cage)inonecorner；andsangmostatrociously。Allaboutthegreencarpet，therewasaslowlymovingcrowdofpeople:
talkingtoeachother:staringatthePopethrougheye-glasses；
defraudingoneanother，inmomentsofpartialcuriosity，outofprecariousseatsonthebasesofpillars:andgrinninghideouslyattheladies。Dottedhereandthere，werelittleknotsoffriars(Frances-cani，orCappuccini，intheircoarsebrowndressesandpeakedhoods)makingastrangecontrasttothegaudyecclesiasticsofhigherdegree，andhavingtheirhumilitygratifiedtotheutmost，bybeingshoulderedabout，andelbowedrightandleft，onallsides。Someofthesehadmuddysandalsandumbrellas，andstainedgarments:havingtrudgedinfromthecountry。Thefacesofthegreaterpartwereascoarseandheavyastheirdress；theirdogged，stupid，monotonousstareatallthegloryandsplendour，havingsomethinginit，halfmiserable，andhalfridiculous。
Uponthegreencarpetitself，andgatheredroundthealtar，wasaperfectarmyofcardinalsandpriests，inred，gold，purple，violet，white，andfinelinen。Stragglersfromthese，wenttoandfroamongthecrowd，conversingtwoandtwo，orgivingandreceivingintroductions，andexchangingsalutations；otherfunctionariesinblackgowns，andotherfunctionariesincourt-
dresses，weresimilarlyengaged。Inthemidstofallthese，andstealthyJesuitscreepinginandout，andtheextremerestlessnessoftheYouthofEngland，whowereperpetuallywanderingabout，somefewsteadypersonsinblackcassocks，whohadkneltdownwiththeirfacestothewall，andwereporingovertheirmissals，became，unintentionally，asortofhumaneman-traps，andwiththeirowndevoutlegs，trippedupotherpeople"sbythedozen。
Therewasagreatpileofcandleslyingdownonthefloornearme，whichaveryoldmaninarustyblackgownwithanopen-worktippet，likeasummerornamentforafireplaceintissue-paper，madehimselfverybusyindispensingtoalltheecclesiastics:onea-piece。Theyloiteredaboutwiththeseforsometime，undertheirarmslikewalking-sticks，orintheirhandsliketruncheons。Atacertainperiodoftheceremony，however，eachcarriedhiscandleuptothePope，laiditacrosshistwokneestobeblessed，tookitbackagain，andfiledoff。Thiswasdoneinaveryattenuatedprocession，asyoumaysuppose，andoccupiedalongtime。Notbecauseittakeslongtoblessacandlethroughandthrough，butbecausethereweresomanycandlestobeblessed。Atlasttheywereallblessed:andthentheywerealllighted；andthenthePopewastakenup，chairandall，andcarriedroundthechurch。
Imustsay，thatIneversawanything，outofNovember，solikethepopularEnglishcommemorationofthefifthofthatmonth。Abundleofmatchesandalantern，wouldhavemadeitperfect。NordidthePope，himself，atallmartheresemblance，thoughhehasapleasantandvenerableface；for，asthispartoftheceremonymakeshimgiddyandsick，heshutshiseyeswhenitisperformed:andhavinghiseyesshutandagreatmitreonhishead，andhisheaditselfwaggingtoandfroastheyshookhimincarrying，helookedasifhismaskweregoingtotumbleoff。Thetwoimmensefanswhicharealwaysborne，oneoneithersideofhim，accompaniedhim，ofcourse，onthisoccasion。Astheycarriedhimalong，heblessedthepeoplewiththemysticsign；andashepassedthem，theykneeleddown。Whenhehadmadetheroundofthechurch，hewasbroughtbackagain，andifIamnotmistaken，thisperformancewasrepeated，inthewhole，threetimes。Therewas，certainlynothingsolemnoreffectiveinit；andcertainlyverymuchthatwasdrollandtawdry。Butthisremarkappliestothewholeceremony，excepttheraisingoftheHost，wheneverymanintheguarddroppedononekneeinstantly，anddashedhisnakedswordontheground；whichhadafineeffect。
ThenexttimeIsawthecathedral，wassometwoorthreeweeksafterwards，whenIclimbedupintotheball；andthen，thehangingsbeingtakendown，andthecarpettakenup，butalltheframeworkleft，theremnantsofthesedecorationslookedlikeanexplodedcracker。
TheFridayandSaturdayhavingbeensolemnFestadays，andSundaybeingalwaysaDIESNONincarnivalproceedings，wehadlookedforward，withsomeimpatienceandcuriosity，tothebeginningofthenewweek:MondayandTuesdaybeingthetwolastandbestdaysoftheCarnival。
OntheMondayafternoonatoneortwoo"clock，therebegantobeagreatrattlingofcarriagesintothecourt-yardofthehotel；ahurryingtoandfroofalltheservantsinit；and，nowandthen，aswiftshootingacrosssomedoorwayorbalcony，ofastragglingstrangerinafancydress:notyetsufficientlywellusedtothesame，towearitwithconfidence，anddefypublicopinion。Allthecarriageswereopen，andhadtheliningscarefullycoveredwithwhitecottonorcalico，topreventtheirproperdecorationsfrombeingspoiledbytheincessantpeltingofsugar-plums；andpeoplewerepackingandcrammingintoeveryvehicleasitwaitedforitsoccupants，enormoussacksandbasketsfulloftheseconfetti，togetherwithsuchheapsofflowers，tiedupinlittlenosegays，thatsomecarriageswerenotonlybrimfulofflowers，butliterallyrunningover:scattering，ateveryshakeandjerkofthesprings，someoftheirabundanceontheground。Nottobebehindhandintheseessentialparticulars，wecausedtwoveryrespectablesacksofsugar-plums(eachaboutthreefeethigh)andalargeclothes-
basketfullofflowerstobeconveyedintoourhiredbarouche，withallspeed。Andfromourplaceofobservation，inoneoftheupperbalconiesofthehotel，wecontemplatedthesearrangementswiththeliveliestsatisfaction。Thecarriagesnowbeginningtotakeuptheircompany，andmoveaway，wegotintoours，anddroveofftoo，armedwithlittlewiremasksforourfaces；thesugar-plums，likeFalstaff"sadulteratedsack，havinglimeintheircomposition。
TheCorsoisastreetamilelong；astreetofshops，andpalaces，andprivatehouses，sometimesopeningintoabroadpiazza。Thereareverandahsandbalconies，ofallshapesandsizes，toalmosteveryhouse-notononestoryalone，butoftentooneroomoranotheroneverystory-putthereingeneralwithsolittleorderorregularity，thatif，yearafteryear，andseasonafterseason，ithadrainedbalconies，hailedbalconies，snowedbalconies，blownbalconies，theycouldscarcelyhavecomeintoexistenceinamoredisorderlymanner。
Thisisthegreatfountain-headandfocusoftheCarnival。ButallthestreetsinwhichtheCarnivalisheld，beingvigilantlykeptbydragoons，itisnecessaryforcarriages，inthefirstinstance，topass，inline，downanotherthoroughfare，andsocomeintotheCorsoattheendremotefromthePiazzadelPopolo；whichisoneofitsterminations。Accordingly，wefellintothestringofcoaches，and，forsometime，joggedonquietlyenough；nowcrawlingonataveryslowwalk；nowtrottinghalf-a-dozenyards；nowbackingfifty；
andnowstoppingaltogether:asthepressureinfrontobligedus。
Ifanyimpetuouscarriagedashedoutoftherankandclatteredforward，withthewildideaofgettingonfaster，itwassuddenlymet，orovertaken，byatrooperonhorseback，who，deafashisowndrawnswordtoallremonstrances，immediatelyescorteditbacktotheveryendoftherow，andmadeitadimspeckintheremotestperspective。Occasionally，weinterchangedavolleyofconfettiwiththecarriagenextinfront，orthecarriagenextbehind；butasyet，thiscapturingofstrayanderrantcoachesbythemilitary，wasthechiefamusement。
Presently，wecameintoanarrowstreet，where，besidesonelineofcarriagesgoing，therewasanotherlineofcarriagesreturning。
Herethesugar-plumsandthenosegaysbegantoflyabout，prettysmartly；andIwasfortunateenoughtoobserveonegentlemanattiredasaGreekwarrior，catchalight-whiskeredbrigandonthenose(hewasintheveryactoftossingupabouquettoayoungladyinafirst-floorwindow)withaprecisionthatwasmuchapplaudedbythebystanders。AsthisvictoriousGreekwasexchangingafacetiousremarkwithastoutgentlemaninadoorway-
one-halfblackandone-halfwhite，asifhehadbeenpeeledupthemiddle-whohadofferedhimhiscongratulationsonthisachievement，hereceivedanorangefromahouse-top，fullonhisleftear，andwasmuchsurprised，nottosaydiscomfited。
Especially，ashewasstandingupatthetime；andinconsequenceofthecarriagemovingonsuddenly，atthesamemoment，staggeredignominiously，andburiedhimselfamonghisflowers。
Somequarterofanhourofthissortofprogress，broughtustotheCorso；andanythingsogay，sobright，andlivelyasthewholescenethere，itwouldbedifficulttoimagine。Fromalltheinnumerablebalconies:fromtheremotestandhighest，nolessthanfromthelowestandnearest:hangingsofbrightred，brightgreen，brightblue，whiteandgold，wereflutteringinthebrilliantsunlight。Fromwindows，andfromparapets，andtopsofhouses，streamersoftherichestcolours，anddraperiesofthegaudiestandmostsparklinghues，werefloatingoutuponthestreet。Thebuildingsseemedtohavebeenliterallyturnedinsideout，andtohavealltheirgaietytowardsthehighway。Shop-frontsweretakendown，andthewindowsfilledwithcompany，likeboxesatashiningtheatre；doorswerecarriedofftheirhinges，andlongtapestriedgroves，hungwithgarlandsofflowersandevergreens，displayedwithin；builders"scaffoldingsweregorgeoustemples，radiantinsilver，gold，andcrimson；andineverynookandcorner，fromthepavementtothechimney-tops，wherewomen"seyescouldglisten，theretheydanced，andlaughed，andsparkled，likethelightinwater。Everysortofbewitchingmadnessofdresswasthere。
Littlepreposterousscarletjackets；quaintoldstomachers，morewickedthanthesmartestbodices；Polishpelisses，strainedandtightasripegooseberries；tinyGreekcaps，allawry，andclingingtothedarkhair，Heavenknowshow；everywild，quaint，bold，shy，pettish，madcapfancyhaditsillustrationinadress；andeveryfancywasasdeadforgottenbyitsowner，inthetumultofmerriment，asifthethreeoldaqueductsthatstillremainentirehadbroughtLetheintoRome，upontheirsturdyarches，thatmorning。
Thecarriageswerenowthreeabreast；inbroaderplacesfour；oftenstationaryforalongtimetogether，alwaysoneclosemassofvariegatedbrightness；showing，thewholestreet-full，throughthestormofflowers，likeflowersofalargergrowththemselves。Insome，thehorseswererichlycaparisonedinmagnificenttrappings；
inotherstheyweredeckedfromheadtotail，withflowingribbons。
Someweredrivenbycoachmenwithenormousdoublefaces:onefaceleeringatthehorses:theothercockingitsextraordinaryeyesintothecarriage:andbothrattlingagain，underthehailofsugar-plums。Otherdriverswereattiredaswomen，wearinglongringletsandnobonnets，andlookingmoreridiculousinanyrealdifficultywiththehorses(ofwhich，insuchaconcourse，therewereagreatmany)thantonguecantell，orpendescribe。InsteadofsittingINthecarriages，upontheseats，thehandsomeRomanwomen，toseeandtobeseenthebetter，sitintheheadsofthebarouches，atthistimeofgenerallicence，withtheirfeetuponthecushions-andoh，theflowingskirtsanddaintywaists，theblessedshapesandlaughingfaces，thefree，good-humoured，gallantfiguresthattheymake！Thereweregreatvans，too，fullofhandsomegirls-thirty，ormoretogether，perhaps-andthebroadsidesthatwerepouredinto，andpouredoutof，thesefairyfire-shops，splashedtheairwithflowersandbon-bonsfortenminutesatatime。Carriages，delayedlonginoneplace，wouldbeginadeliberateengagementwithothercarriages，orwithpeopleatthelowerwindows；andthespectatorsatsomeupperbalconyorwindow，joininginthefray，andattackingbothparties，wouldemptydowngreatbagsofconfetti，thatdescendedlikeacloud，andinaninstantmadethemwhiteasmillers。Still，carriagesoncarriages，dressesondresses，coloursoncolours，crowdsuponcrowds，withoutend。Menandboysclingingtothewheelsofcoaches，andholdingonbehind，andfollowingintheirwake，anddivinginamongthehorses"feettopickupscatteredflowerstosellagain；maskersonfoot(thedrollestgenerally)infantasticexaggerationsofcourt-dresses，surveyingthethrongthroughenormouseye-glasses，andalwaystransportedwithanecstasyoflove，onthediscoveryofanyparticularlyoldladyatawindow；
longstringsofPolicinelli，layingaboutthemwithblownbladdersattheendsofsticks；awaggon-fullofmadmen，screamingandtearingtothelife；acoach-fullofgravemamelukes，withtheirhorse-tailstandardsetupinthemidst；apartyofgipsy-womenengagedinterrificconflictwithashipfulofsailors；aman-
monkeyonapole，surroundedbystrangeanimalswithpigs"faces，andlions"tails，carriedundertheirarms，orworngracefullyovertheirshoulders；carriagesoncarriages，dressesondresses，coloursoncolours，crowdsuponcrowds，withoutend。Notmanyactualcharacterssustained，orrepresented，perhaps，consideringthenumberdressed，butthemainpleasureofthesceneconsistinginitsperfectgoodtemper；initsbright，andinfinite，andflashingvariety；andinitsentireabandonmenttothemadhumourofthetime-anabandonmentsoperfect，socontagious，soirresistible，thatthesteadiestforeignerfightsuptohismiddleinflowersandsugar-plums，likethewildestRomanofthemall，andthinksofnothingelsetillhalf-pastfouro"clock，whenheissuddenlyreminded(tohisgreatregret)thatthisisnotthewholebusinessofhisexistence，byhearingthetrumpetssound，andseeingthedragoonsbegintoclearthestreet。
HowiteverISclearedfortheracethattakesplaceatfive，orhowthehorsesevergothroughtherace，withoutgoingoverthepeople，ismorethanIcansay。Butthecarriagesgetoutintotheby-streets，orupintothePiazzadelPopolo，andsomepeoplesitintemporarygalleriesinthelatterplace，andtensofthousandslinetheCorsoonbothsides，whenthehorsesarebroughtoutintothePiazza-tothefootofthatsamecolumnwhich，forcenturies，lookeddownuponthegamesandchariot-racesintheCircusMaximus。
Atagivensignaltheyarestartedoff。Downthelivelane，thewholelengthoftheCorso，theyflylikethewind:riderless，asalltheworldknows:withshiningornamentsupontheirbacks，andtwistedintheirplaitedmanes:andwithheavylittleballsstuckfullofspikes，danglingattheirsides，togoadthemon。Thejinglingofthesetrappings，andtherattlingoftheirhoofsuponthehardstones；thedashandfuryoftheirspeedalongtheechoingstreet；nay，theverycannonthatarefired-thesenoisesarenothingtotheroaringofthemultitude:theirshouts:theclappingoftheirhands。Butitissoonover-almostinstantaneously。Morecannonshakethetown。Thehorseshaveplungedintothecarpetsputacrossthestreettostopthem；thegoalisreached；theprizesarewon(theyaregiven，inpart，bythepoorJews，asacompromisefornotrunningfoot-racesthemselves)；andthereisanendtothatday"ssport。
Butifthescenebebright，andgay，andcrowded，onthelastdaybutone，itattains，ontheconcludingday，tosuchaheightofglitteringcolour，swarminglife，andfrolicsomeuproar，thatthebarerecollectionofitmakesmegiddyatthismoment。Thesamediversions，greatlyheightenedandintensifiedintheardourwithwhichtheyarepursued，goonuntilthesamehour。Theraceisrepeated；thecannonarefired；theshoutingandclappingofhandsarerenewed；thecannonarefiredagain；theraceisover；andtheprizesarewon。Butthecarriages:ankle-deepwithsugar-plumswithin，andsobe-floweredanddustywithout，astobehardlyrecognisableforthesamevehiclesthattheywere，threehoursago:
insteadofscamperingoffinalldirections，throngintotheCorso，wheretheyaresoonwedgedtogetherinascarcelymovingmass。ForthediversionoftheMoccoletti，thelastgaymadnessoftheCarnival，isnowathand；andsellersoflittletaperslikewhatarecalledChristmascandlesinEngland，areshoutinglustilyoneveryside，"Moccoli，Moccoli！EccoMoccoli！"-anewiteminthetumult；quiteabolishingthatotheritemof"EccoFiori！EccoFior-r-r！"whichhasbeenmakingitselfaudibleoveralltherest，atintervals，thewholedaythrough。
Asthebrighthangingsanddressesareallfadingintoonedull，heavy，uniformcolourinthedeclineoftheday，lightsbeginflashing，hereandthere:inthewindows，onthehousetops，inthebalconies，inthecarriages，inthehandsofthefoot-passengers:
littlebylittle:gradually，gradually:moreandmore:untilthewholelongstreetisonegreatglareandblazeoffire。Then，everybodypresenthasbutoneengrossingobject；thatis，toextinguishotherpeople"scandles，andtokeephisownalight；andeverybody:man，woman，orchild，gentlemanorlady，princeorpeasant，nativeorforeigner:yellsandscreams，androarsincessantly，asataunttothesubdued，"SenzaMoccolo，SenzaMoccolo！"(Withoutalight！Withoutalight！)untilnothingisheardbutagiganticchorusofthosetwowords，mingledwithpealsoflaughter。
Thespectacle，atthistime，isoneofthemostextraordinarythatcanbeimagined。Carriagescomingslowlyby，witheverybodystandingontheseatsoronthebox，holdinguptheirlightsatarms"length，forgreatersafety；someinpapershades；somewithabunchofundefendedlittletapers，kindledaltogether；somewithblazingtorches；somewithfeeblelittlecandles；menonfoot，creepingalong，amongthewheels，watchingtheiropportunity，tomakeaspringatsomeparticularlight，anddashitout；otherpeopleclimbingupintocarriages，togetholdofthembymainforce；others，chasingsomeunluckywanderer，roundandroundhisowncoach，toblowoutthelighthehasbeggedorstolensomewhere，beforehecanascendtohisowncompany，andenablethemtolighttheirextinguishedtapers；others，withtheirhatsoff，atacarriage-door，humblybeseechingsomekind-heartedladytoobligethemwithalightforacigar，andwhensheisinthefulnessofdoubtwhethertocomplyorno，blowingoutthecandlesheisguardingsotenderlywithherlittlehand；otherpeopleatthewindows，fishingforcandleswithlinesandhooks，orlettingdownlongwillow-wandswithhandkerchiefsattheend，andflappingthemout，dexterously，whenthebearerisattheheightofhistriumph，others，bidingtheirtimeincorners，withimmenseextinguisherslikehalberds，andsuddenlycomingdownuponglorioustorches；
others，gatheredroundonecoach，andstickingtoit；others，rainingorangesandnosegaysatanobduratelittlelantern，orregularlystormingapyramidofmen，holdinguponemanamongthem，whocarriesonefeeblelittlewickabovehishead，withwhichhedefiesthemall！SenzaMoccolo！SenzaMoccolo！Beautifulwomen，standingupincoaches，pointinginderisionatextinguishedlights，andclappingtheirhands，astheypasson，crying，"SenzaMoccolo！SenzaMoccolo！"；lowbalconiesfulloflovelyfacesandgaydresses，strugglingwithassailantsinthestreets；somerepressingthemastheyclimbup，somebendingdown，someleaningover，someshrinkingback-delicatearmsandbosoms-gracefulfigures-glowinglights，flutteringdresses，SenzaMoccolo，SenzaMoccoli，SenzaMoc-co-lo-o-o-o！-wheninthewildestenthusiasmofthecry，andfullestecstasyofthesport，theAveMariaringsfromthechurchsteeples，andtheCarnivalisoverinaninstant-putoutlikeataper，withabreath！
Therewasamasqueradeatthetheatreatnight，asdullandsenselessasaLondonone，andonlyremarkableforthesummarywayinwhichthehousewasclearedateleveno"clock:whichwasdonebyalineofsoldiersformingalongthewall，atthebackofthestage，andsweepingthewholecompanyoutbeforethem，likeabroadbroom。ThegameoftheMoccoletti(theword，inthesingular，Moccoletto，isthediminutiveofMoccolo，andmeansalittlelamporcandlesnuff)issupposedbysometobeaceremonyofburlesquemourningforthedeathoftheCarnival:candlesbeingindispensabletoCatholicgrief。Butwhetheritbeso，orbearemnantoftheancientSaturnalia，oranincorporationofboth，orhaveitsorigininanythingelse，Ishallalwaysrememberit，andthefrolic，asabrilliantandmostcaptivatingsight:nolessremarkablefortheunbrokengood-humourofallconcerned，downtotheverylowest(andamongthosewhoscaledthecarriages，weremanyofthecommonestmenandboys)，thanforitsinnocentvivacity。For，oddasitmayseemtosayso，ofasportsofullofthoughtlessnessandpersonaldisplay，itisasfreefromanytaintofimmodestyasanygeneralminglingofthetwosexescanpossiblybe；andthereseemstoprevail，duringitsprogress，afeelingofgeneral，almostchildish，simplicityandconfidence，whichonethinksofwithapang，whentheAveMariahasrungitaway，forawholeyear。
AvailingourselvesofapartofthequietintervalbetweentheterminationoftheCarnivalandthebeginningoftheHolyWeek:
wheneverybodyhadrunawayfromtheone，andfewpeoplehadyetbeguntorunbackagainfortheother:wewentconscientiouslytowork，toseeRome。And，bydintofgoingoutearlyeverymorning，andcomingbacklateeveryevening，andlabouringhardallday，I
believewemadeacquaintancewitheverypostandpillarinthecity，andthecountryround；and，inparticular，exploredsomanychurches，thatIabandonedthatpartoftheenterpriseatlast，beforeitwashalffinished，lestIshouldnever，ofmyownaccord，gotochurchagain，aslongasIlived。But，Imanaged，almosteveryday，atonetimeorother，togetbacktotheColiseum，andoutupontheopenCampagna，beyondtheTombofCeciliaMetella。
Weoftenencountered，intheseexpeditions，acompanyofEnglishTourists，withwhomIhadanardent，butungratifiedlonging，toestablishaspeakingacquaintance。TheywereoneMr。Davis，andasmallcircleoffriends。ItwasimpossiblenottoknowMrs。
Davis"sname，fromherbeingalwaysingreatrequestamongherparty，andherpartybeingeverywhere。DuringtheHolyWeek，theywereineverypartofeverysceneofeveryceremony。Forafortnightorthreeweeksbeforeit，theywereineverytomb，andeverychurch，andeveryruin，andeveryPictureGallery；andI
hardlyeverobservedMrs。Davistobesilentforamoment。Deepunderground，highupinSt。Peter"s，outontheCampagna，andstiflingintheJews"quarter，Mrs。Davisturnedup，allthesame。
Idon"tthinksheeversawanything，oreverlookedatanything；
andshehadalwayslostsomethingoutofastrawhand-basket，andwastryingtofindit，withallhermightandmain，amonganimmensequantityofEnglishhalfpence，whichlay，likesandsuponthesea-shore，atthebottomofit。TherewasaprofessionalCiceronealwaysattachedtotheparty(whichhadbeenbroughtoverfromLondon，fifteenortwentystrong，bycontract)，andifhesomuchaslookedatMrs。Davis，sheinvariablycuthimshortbysaying，"There，Godblesstheman，don"tworritme！Idon"tunderstandawordyousay，andshouldn"tifyouwastotalktillyouwasblackintheface！"Mr。Davisalwayshadasnuff-colouredgreat-coaton，andcarriedagreatgreenumbrellainhishand，andhadaslowcuriosityconstantlydevouringhim，whichpromptedhimtodoextraordinarythings，suchastakingthecoversoffurnsintombs，andlookinginattheashesasiftheywerepickles-andtracingoutinscriptionswiththeferruleofhisumbrella，andsaying，withintensethoughtfulness，"Here"saByousee，andthere"saR，andthisisthewaywegoesonin；isit！"Hisantiquarianhabitsoccasionedhisbeingfrequentlyintherearoftherest；andoneoftheagoniesofMrs。Davis，andthepartyingeneral，wasanever-presentfearthatDaviswouldbelost。Thiscausedthemtoscreamforhim，inthestrangestplaces，andatthemostimproperseasons。Andwhenhecame，slowlyemergingoutofsomesepulchreorother，likeapeacefulGhoule，saying"HereI
am！"Mrs。Davisinvariablyreplied，"You"llbeburiedaliveinaforeigncountry，Davis，andit"snousetryingtopreventyou！"
Mr。andMrs。Davis，andtheirparty，had，probably，beenbroughtfromLondoninaboutnineortendays。Eighteenhundredyearsago，theRomanlegionsunderClaudius，protestedagainstbeingledintoMr。andMrs。Davis"scountry，urgingthatitlaybeyondthelimitsoftheworld。
AmongwhatmaybecalledtheCubsorminorLionsofRome，therewasonethatamusedmemightily。Itisalwaystobefoundthere；anditsdenisonthegreatflightofstepsthatleadfromthePiazzadiSpagna，tothechurchofTrinitadelMonte。Inplainerwords，thesestepsarethegreatplaceofresortfortheartists"
"Models，"andtheretheyareconstantlywaitingtobehired。ThefirsttimeIwentupthere，Icouldnotconceivewhythefacesseemedfamiliartome；whytheyappearedtohavebesetme，foryears，ineverypossiblevarietyofactionandcostume；andhowitcametopassthattheystartedupbeforeme，inRome，inthebroadday，likesomanysaddledandbridlednightmares。Isoonfoundthatwehadmadeacquaintance，andimprovedit，forseveralyears，onthewallsofvariousExhibitionGalleries。Thereisoneoldgentleman，withlongwhitehairandanimmensebeard，who，tomyknowledge，hasgonehalfthroughthecatalogueoftheRoyalAcademy。Thisisthevenerable，orpatriarchalmodel。Hecarriesalongstaff；andeveryknotandtwistinthatstaffIhaveseen，faithfullydelineated，innumerabletimes。Thereisanothermaninabluecloak，whoalwayspretendstobeasleepinthesun(whenthereisany)，andwho，Ineednotsay，isalwaysverywideawake，andveryattentivetothedispositionofhislegs。ThisistheDOLCEFAR"NIENTEmodel。Thereisanothermaninabrowncloak，wholeansagainstawall，withhisarmsfoldedinhismantle，andlooksoutofthecornersofhiseyes:whicharejustvisiblebeneathhisbroadslouchedhat。Thisistheassassinmodel。Thereisanotherman，whoconstantlylooksoverhisownshoulder，andisalwaysgoingaway，butneverdoes。Thisisthehaughty，orscornfulmodel。AstoDomesticHappiness，andHolyFamilies，theyshouldcomeverycheap，fortherearelumpsofthem，allupthesteps；andthecreamofthethingis，thattheyareallthefalsestvagabondsintheworld，especiallymadeupforthepurpose，andhavingnocounterpartsinRomeoranyotherpartofthehabitableglobe。
MyrecentmentionoftheCarnival，remindsmeofitsbeingsaidtobeamockmourning(intheceremonywithwhichitcloses)，forthegaietiesandmerry-makingsbeforeLent；andthisagainremindsmeoftherealfuneralsandmourningprocessionsofRome，which，likethoseinmostotherpartsofItaly，arerenderedchieflyremarkabletoaForeigner，bytheindifferencewithwhichthemereclayisuniversallyregarded，afterlifehasleftit。Andthisisnotfromthesurvivorshavinghadtimetodissociatethememoryofthedeadfromtheirwell-rememberedappearanceandformonearth；fortheintermentfollowstoospeedilyafterdeath，forthat:almostalwaystakingplacewithinfour-and-twentyhours，and，sometimes，withintwelve。
AtRome，thereisthesamearrangementofPitsinagreat，bleak，open，drearyspace，thatIhavealreadydescribedasexistinginGenoa。WhenIvisitedit，atnoonday，Isawasolitarycoffinofplaindeal:uncoveredbyanyshroudorpall，andsoslightlymade，thatthehoofofanywanderingmulewouldhavecrusheditin:
carelesslytumbleddown，allononeside，onthedoorofoneofthepits-andthereleft，byitself，inthewindandsunshine。"Howdoesitcometobelefthere?"Iaskedthemanwhoshowedmetheplace。"Itwasbroughtherehalfanhourago，Signore，"hesaid。
Irememberedtohavemettheprocession，onitsreturn:stragglingawayatagoodroundpace。"Whenwillitbeputinthepit?"I
askedhim。"Whenthecartcomes，anditisopenedto-night，"hesaid。"Howmuchdoesitcosttobebroughthereinthisway，insteadofcominginthecart?"Iaskedhim。"Tenscudi，"hesaid(abouttwopounds，two-and-sixpence，English)。"Theotherbodies，forwhomnothingispaid，aretakentothechurchoftheSantaMariadellaConsolazione，"hecontinued，"andbroughtherealtogether，inthecartatnight。"Istood，amoment，lookingatthecoffin，whichhadtwoinitiallettersscrawleduponthetop；
andturnedaway，withanexpressioninmyface，Isuppose，ofnotmuchlikingitsexposureinthatmanner:forhesaid，shrugginghisshoulderswithgreatvivacity，andgivingapleasantsmile，"Buthe"sdead，Signore，he"sdead。Whynot?"
Amongtheinnumerablechurches，thereisoneImustselectforseparatemention。ItisthechurchoftheAraCoeli，supposedtobebuiltonthesiteoftheoldTempleofJupiterFeretrius；andapproached，ononeside，byalongsteepflightofsteps，whichseemincompletewithoutsomegroupofbeardedsoothsayersonthetop。ItisremarkableforthepossessionofamiraculousBambino，orwoodendoll，representingtheInfantSaviour；andIfirstsawthismiraculousBambino，inlegalphrase，inmannerfollowing，thatistosay:
Wehadstrolledintothechurchoneafternoon，andwerelookingdownitslongvistaofgloomypillars(foralltheseancientchurchesbuiltupontheruinsofoldtemples，aredarkandsad)，whentheBravecamerunningin，withagrinuponhisfacethatstretcheditfromeartoear，andimploredustofollowhim，withoutamoment"sdelay，astheyweregoingtoshowtheBambinotoaselectparty。Weaccordinglyhurriedofftoasortofchapel，orsacristy，hardbythechiefaltar，butnotinthechurchitself，wheretheselectparty，consistingoftwoorthreeCatholicgentlemenandladies(notItalians)，werealreadyassembled:andwhereonehollow-cheekedyoungmonkwaslightingupdiverscandles，whileanotherwasputtingonsomeclericalrobesoverhiscoarsebrownhabit。Thecandleswereonakindofaltar，andaboveitweretwodelectablefigures，suchasyouwouldseeatanyEnglishfair，representingtheHolyVirgin，andSaintJoseph，asIsuppose，bendingindevotionoverawoodenbox，orcoffer；whichwasshut。
Thehollow-cheekedmonk，numberOne，havingfinishedlightingthecandles，wentdownonhisknees，inacorner，beforethisset-
piece；andthemonknumberTwo，havingputonapairofhighlyornamentedandgold-bespatteredgloves，lifteddownthecoffer，withgreatreverence，andsetitonthealtar。Then，withmanygenuflexions，andmutteringcertainprayers，heopenedit，andletdownthefront，andtookoffsundrycoveringsofsatinandlacefromtheinside。Theladieshadbeenontheirkneesfromthecommencement；andthegentlemennowdroppeddowndevoutly，asheexposedtoviewalittlewoodendoll，infaceverylikeGeneralTomThumb，theAmericanDwarf:gorgeouslydressedinsatinandgoldlace，andactuallyblazingwithrichjewels。Therewasscarcelyaspotuponitslittlebreast，orneck，orstomach，butwassparklingwiththecostlyofferingsoftheFaithful。Presently，helifteditoutofthebox，andcarryingitroundamongthekneelers，setitsfaceagainsttheforeheadofeveryone，andtendereditsclumsyfoottothemtokiss-aceremonywhichtheyallperformeddowntoadirtylittleragamuffinofaboywhohadwalkedinfromthestreet。Whenthiswasdone，helaiditintheboxagain:andthecompany，rising，drewnear，andcommendedthejewelsinwhispers。
Ingoodtime，hereplacedthecoverings，shutupthebox，putitbackinitsplace，lockedupthewholeconcern(HolyFamilyandall)behindapairoffolding-doors；tookoffhispriestlyvestments；andreceivedthecustomary"smallcharge，"whilehiscompanion，bymeansofanextinguisherfastenedtotheendofalongstick，putoutthelights，oneafteranother。Thecandlesbeingallextinguished，andthemoneyallcollected，theyretired，andsodidthespectators。
ImetthissameBambino，inthestreetashorttimeafterwards，going，ingreatstate，tothehouseofsomesickperson。ItistakentoallpartsofRomeforthispurpose，constantly；but，I
understandthatitisnotalwaysassuccessfulascouldbewished；
for，makingitsappearanceatthebedsideofweakandnervouspeopleinextremity，accompaniedbyanumerousescort，itnotunfrequentlyfrightensthemtodeath。Itismostpopularincasesofchild-birth，whereithasdonesuchwonders，thatifaladybelongerthanusualingettingthroughherdifficulties，amessengerisdespatched，withallspeed，tosolicittheimmediateattendanceoftheBambino。Itisaveryvaluableproperty，andmuchconfidedin-especiallybythereligiousbodytowhomitbelongs。
Iamhappytoknowthatitisnotconsideredimmaculate，bysomewhoaregoodCatholics，andwhoarebehindthescenes，fromwhatwastoldmebythenearrelationofaPriest，himselfaCatholic，andagentlemanoflearningandintelligence。ThisPriestmademyinformantpromisethathewould，onnoaccount，allowtheBambinotobeborneintothebedroomofasicklady，inwhomtheywerebothinterested。"For，"saidhe，"ifthey(themonks)troubleherwithit，andintrudethemselvesintoherroom，itwillcertainlykillher。"Myinformantaccordinglylookedoutofthewindowwhenitcame；and，withmanythanks，declinedtoopenthedoor。Heendeavoured，inanothercaseofwhichhehadnootherknowledgethansuchashegainedasapasser-byatthemoment，topreventitsbeingcarriedintoasmallunwholesomechamber，whereapoorgirlwasdying。But，hestroveagainstitunsuccessfully，andsheexpiredwhilethecrowdwerepressingroundherbed。
AmongthepeoplewhodropintoSt。Peter"sattheirleisure，tokneelonthepavement，andsayaquietprayer，therearecertainschoolsandseminaries，priestlyandotherwise，thatcomein，twentyorthirtystrong。Theseboysalwayskneeldowninsinglefile，onebehindtheother，withatallgrimmasterinablackgown，bringinguptherear:likeapackofcardsarrangedtobetumbleddownatatouch，withadisproportionatelylargeKnaveofclubsattheend。Whentheyhavehadaminuteorsoatthechiefaltar，theyscrambleup，andfilingofftothechapeloftheMadonna，orthesacrament，flopdownagaininthesameorder；sothatifanybodydidstumbleagainstthemaster，ageneralandsuddenoverthrowofthewholelinemustinevitablyensue。
Thesceneinallthechurchesisthestrangestpossible。Thesamemonotonous，heartless，drowsychaunting，alwaysgoingon；thesamedarkbuilding，darkerfromthebrightnessofthestreetwithout；
thesamelampsdimlyburning；theself-samepeoplekneelinghereandthere；turnedtowardsyou，fromonealtarorother，thesamepriest"sback，withthesamelargecrossembroideredonit；howeverdifferentinsize，inshape，inwealth，inarchitecture，thischurchisfromthat，itisthesamethingstill。Therearethesamedirtybeggarsstoppingintheirmutteredprayerstobeg；thesamemiserablecripplesexhibitingtheirdeformityatthedoors；
thesameblindmen，rattlinglittlepotslikekitchenpepper-
castors:theirdepositoriesforalms；thesamepreposterouscrownsofsilverstuckuponthepaintedheadsofsinglesaintsandVirginsincrowdedpictures，sothatalittlefigureonamountainhasahead-dressbiggerthanthetempleintheforeground，oradjacentmilesoflandscape；thesamefavouriteshrineorfigure，smotheredwithlittlesilverheartsandcrosses，andthelike:thestapletradeandshowofallthejewellers；thesameoddmixtureofrespectandindecorum，faithandphlegm:kneelingonthestones，andspittingonthem，loudly；gettingupfromprayerstobegalittle，ortopursuesomeotherworldlymatter:andthenkneelingdownagain，toresumethecontritesupplicationatthepointwhereitwasinterrupted。Inonechurch，akneelingladygotupfromherprayer，foramoment，toofferushercard，asateacherofMusic；
andinanother，asedategentlemanwithaverythickwalking-staff，arosefromhisdevotionstobelabourhisdog，whowasgrowlingatanotherdog:andwhoseyelpsandhowlsresoundedthroughthechurch，ashismasterquietlyrelapsedintohisformertrainofmeditation-keepinghiseyeuponthedog，atthesametime，nevertheless。
Aboveall，thereisalwaysareceptacleforthecontributionsoftheFaithful，insomeformorother。Sometimes，itisamoney-box，setupbetweentheworshipper，andthewoodenlife-sizefigureoftheRedeemer；sometimes，itisalittlechestforthemaintenanceoftheVirgin；sometimes，anappealonbehalfofapopularBambino；
sometimes，abagattheendofalongstick，thrustamongthepeoplehereandthere，andvigilantlyjingledbyanactiveSacristan；butthereitalwaysis，and，veryoften，inmanyshapesinthesamechurch，anddoingprettywellinall。Nor，isitwantingintheopenair-thestreetsandroads-for，oftenasyouarewalkingalong，thinkingaboutanythingratherthanatincanister，thatobjectpouncesoutuponyoufromalittlehousebythewayside；andonitstopispainted，"FortheSoulsinPurgatory；"anappealwhichthebearerrepeatsagreatmanytimes，asherattlesitbeforeyou，muchasPunchrattlesthecrackedbellwhichhissanguinedispositionmakesanorganof。
AndthisremindsmethatsomeRomanaltarsofpeculiarsanctity，beartheinscription，"EveryMassperformedatthisaltarfreesasoulfromPurgatory。"Ihaveneverbeenabletofindoutthechargeforoneoftheseservices，buttheyshouldneedsbeexpensive。ThereareseveralCrossesinRometoo，thekissingofwhich，confersindulgencesforvaryingterms。ThatinthecentreoftheColiseum，isworthahundreddays；andpeoplemaybeseenkissingitfrommorningtonight。Itiscuriousthatsomeofthesecrossesseemtoacquireanarbitrarypopularity:thisveryoneamongthem。InanotherpartoftheColiseumthereisacrossuponamarbleslab，withtheinscription，"WhokissesthiscrossshallbeentitledtoTwohundredandfortydays"indulgence。"ButIsawnoonepersonkissit，though，dayafterday，Isatinthearena，andsawscoresuponscoresofpeasantspassit，ontheirwaytokisstheother。