第3章

Anyhow，ImustcertainlyhaveforgivenherherinterestintheCircus，thoughIhadbeenherFatherConfessor。

Therewasalittlefiery-eyedoldmanwithacrookedshoulder，inthecathedral，whotookitveryillthatImadenoefforttoseethebucket(keptinanoldtower)whichthepeopleofModenatookawayfromthepeopleofBolognainthefourteenthcentury，andaboutwhichtherewaswarmadeandamock-heroicpoembyTASSONE，too。Beingquitecontent，however，tolookattheoutsideofthetower，andfeast，inimagination，onthebucketwithin；andpreferringtoloiterintheshadeofthetallCampanile，andaboutthecathedral；Ihavenopersonalknowledgeofthisbucket，evenatthepresenttime。

Indeed，wewereatBologna，beforethelittleoldman(ortheGuide-Book)wouldhaveconsideredthatwehadhalfdonejusticetothewondersofModena。Butitissuchadelighttometoleavenewscenesbehind，andstillgoon，encounteringnewerscenes-and，moreover，Ihavesuchaperversedispositioninrespectofsightsthatarecut，anddried，anddictated-thatIfearIsinagainstsimilarauthoritiesineveryplaceIvisit。

Bethisasitmay，inthepleasantCemeteryatBologna，IfoundmyselfwalkingnextSundaymorning，amongthestatelymarbletombsandcolonnades，incompanywithacrowdofPeasants，andescortedbyalittleCiceroneofthattown，whowasexcessivelyanxiousforthehonouroftheplace，andmostsolicitoustodivertmyattentionfromthebadmonuments:whereashewasnevertiredofextollingthegoodones。Seeingthislittleman(agood-humouredlittlemanhewas，whoseemedtohavenothinginhisfacebutshiningteethandeyes)lookingwistfullyatacertainplotofgrass，Iaskedhimwhowasburiedthere。"Thepoorpeople，Signore，"hesaid，withashrugandasmile，andstoppingtolookbackatme-forhealwayswentonalittlebefore，andtookoffhishattointroduceeverynewmonument。"Onlythepoor，Signore！It"sverycheerful。It"sverylively。Howgreenitis，howcool！It"slikeameadow！

Therearefive，"-holdingupallthefingersofhisrighthandtoexpressthenumber，whichanItalianpeasantwillalwaysdo，ifitbewithinthecompassofhistenfingers，-"therearefiveofmylittlechildrenburiedthere，Signore；justthere；alittletotheright。Well！ThankstoGod！It"sverycheerful。Howgreenitis，howcoolitis！It"squiteameadow！"

Helookedmeveryhardintheface，andseeingIwassorryforhim，tookapinchofsnuff(everyCiceronetakessnuff)，andmadealittlebow；partlyindeprecationofhishavingalludedtosuchasubject，andpartlyinmemoryofthechildrenandofhisfavouritesaint。Itwasasunaffectedandasperfectlynaturalalittlebow，asevermanmade。Immediatelyafterwards，hetookhishatoffaltogether，andbeggedtointroducemetothenextmonument；andhiseyesandhisteethshonebrighterthanbefore。

CHAPTERVI-THROUGHBOLOGNAANDFERRARA

THEREwassuchaverysmartofficialinattendanceattheCemeterywherethelittleCiceronehadburiedhischildren，thatwhenthelittleCiceronesuggestedtome，inawhisper，thattherewouldbenooffenceinpresentingthisofficer，inreturnforsomeslightextraservice，withacoupleofpauls(abouttenpence，Englishmoney)，Ilookedincredulouslyathiscockedhat，wash-leathergloves，well-madeuniform，anddazzlingbuttons，andrebukedthelittleCiceronewithagraveshakeofthehead。For，insplendourofappearance，hewasatleastequaltotheDeputyUsheroftheBlackRod；andtheideaofhiscarrying，asJeremyDiddlerwouldsay，"suchathingastenpence"awaywithhim，seemedmonstrous。

Hetookitinexcellentpart，however，whenImadeboldtogiveithim，andpulledoffhiscockedhatwithaflourishthatwouldhavebeenabargainatdoublethemoney。

Itseemedtobehisdutytodescribethemonumentstothepeople-

atalleventshewasdoingso；andwhenIcomparedhim，likeGulliverinBrobdingnag，"withtheInstitutionsofmyownbelovedcountry，Icouldnotrefrainfromtearsofprideandexultation。"

Hehadnopaceatall；nomorethanatortoise。Heloiteredasthepeopleloitered，thattheymightgratifytheircuriosity；andpositivelyallowedthem，nowandthen，toreadtheinscriptionsonthetombs。Hewasneithershabby，norinsolent，norchurlish，norignorant。Hespokehisownlanguagewithperfectpropriety，andseemedtoconsiderhimself，inhisway，akindofteacherofthepeople，andtoentertainajustrespectbothforhimselfandthem。

TheywouldnomorehavesuchamanforaVergerinWestminsterAbbey，thantheywouldletthepeoplein(astheydoatBologna)toseethemonumentsfornothing。

Again，anancientsombretown，underthebrilliantsky；withheavyarcadesoverthefootwaysoftheolderstreets，andlighterandmorecheerfularchwaysinthenewerportionsofthetown。Again，brownpilesofsacredbuildings，withmorebirdsflyinginandoutofchinksinthestones；andmoresnarlingmonstersforthebasesofthepillars。Again，richchurches，drowsyMasses，curlingincense，tinklingbells，priestsinbrightvestments:pictures，tapers，lacedaltarcloths，crosses，images，andartificialflowers。

Thereisagraveandlearnedairaboutthecity，andapleasantgloomuponit，thatwouldleaveit，adistinctandseparateimpressioninthemind，amongacrowdofcities，thoughitwerenotstillfurthermarkedinthetraveller"sremembrancebythetwobrickleaningtowers(sufficientlyunsightlyinthemselves，itmustbeacknowledged)，incliningcross-wiseasiftheywerebowingstifflytoeachother-amostextraordinaryterminationtotheperspectiveofsomeofthenarrowstreets。Thecolleges，andchurchestoo，andpalaces:andabovealltheacademyofFineArts，wherethereareahostofinterestingpictures，especiallybyGUIDO，DOMENICHINO，andLUDOVICOCARACCI:giveitaplaceofitsowninthememory。Eventhoughthesewerenot，andtherewerenothingelsetorememberitby，thegreatMeridianonthepavementofthechurchofSanPetronio，wherethesunbeamsmarkthetimeamongthekneelingpeople，wouldgiveitafancifulandpleasantinterest。

Bolognabeingveryfulloftourists，detainedtherebyaninundationwhichrenderedtheroadtoFlorenceimpassable，Iwasquarteredupatthetopofanhotel，inanout-of-the-wayroomwhichInevercouldfind:containingabed，bigenoughforaboarding-school，whichIcouldn"tfallasleepin。Thechiefamongthewaiterswhovisitedthislonelyretreat，wheretherewasnoothercompanybuttheswallowsinthebroadeavesoverthewindow，wasamanofoneideainconnectionwiththeEnglish；andthesubjectofthisharmlessmonomania，wasLordByron。Imadethediscoverybyaccidentallyremarkingtohim，atbreakfast，thatthemattingwithwhichthefloorwascovered，wasverycomfortableatthatseason，whenheimmediatelyrepliedthatMilorBeeronhadbeenmuchattachedtothatkindofmatting。Observing，atthesamemoment，thatItooknomilk，heexclaimedwithenthusiasm，thatMilorBeeronhadnevertouchedit。Atfirst，Itookitforgranted，inmyinnocence，thathehadbeenoneoftheBeeronservants；butno，hesaid，no，hewasinthehabitofspeakingaboutmyLord，toEnglishgentlemen；thatwasall。Heknewallabouthim，hesaid。Inproofofit，heconnectedhimwitheverypossibletopic，fromtheMontePulcianowineatdinner(whichwasgrownonanestatehehadowned)，tothebigbeditself，whichwastheverymodelofhis。WhenIlefttheinn，hecoupledwithhisfinalbowintheyard，apartingassurancethattheroadbywhichI

wasgoing，hadbeenMilorBeeron"sfavouriteride；andbeforethehorse"sfeethadwellbeguntoclatteronthepavement，heranbrisklyup-stairsagain，IdaresaytotellsomeotherEnglishmaninsomeothersolitaryroomthattheguestwhohadjustdepartedwasLordBeeron"slivingimage。

IhadenteredBolognabynight-almostmidnight-andallalongtheroadthither，afterourentranceintothePapalterritory:

whichisnot，inanypart，supremelywellgoverned，SaintPeter"skeysbeingratherrustynow；thedriverhadsoworriedaboutthedangerofrobbersintravellingafterdark，andhadsoinfectedthebraveCourier，andthetwohadbeensoconstantlystoppingandgettingupanddowntolookafteraportmanteauwhichwastiedonbehind，thatIshouldhavefeltalmostobligedtoanyonewhowouldhavehadthegoodnesstotakeitaway。Henceitwasstipulated，that，wheneverweleftBologna，weshouldstartsoasnottoarriveatFerraralaterthaneightatnight；andadelightfulafternoonandeveningjourneyitwas，albeitthroughaflatdistrictwhichgraduallybecamemoremarshyfromtheoverflowofbrooksandriversintherecentheavyrains。

Atsunset，whenIwaswalkingonalone，whilethehorsesrested，I

arriveduponalittlescene，which，byoneofthosesingularmentaloperationsofwhichweareallconscious，seemedperfectlyfamiliartome，andwhichIseedistinctlynow。Therewasnotmuchinit。

Inthebloodredlight，therewasamournfulsheetofwater，juststirredbytheeveningwind；uponitsmarginafewtrees。Intheforegroundwasagroupofsilentpeasantgirlsleaningovertheparapetofalittlebridge，andlooking，nowupatthesky，nowdownintothewater；inthedistance，adeepbell；theshadeofapproachingnightoneverything。IfIhadbeenmurderedthere，insomeformerlife，Icouldnothaveseemedtoremembertheplacemorethoroughly，orwithamoreemphaticchillingoftheblood；andthemereremembranceofitacquiredinthatminute，issostrengthenedbytheimaginaryrecollection，thatIhardlythinkI

couldforgetit。

Moresolitary，moredepopulated，moredeserted，oldFerrara，thananycityofthesolemnbrotherhood！Thegrasssogrowsupinthesilentstreets，thatanyonemightmakehaythere，literally，whilethesunshines。ButthesunshineswithdiminishedcheerfulnessingrimFerrara；andthepeoplearesofewwhopassandre-passthroughtheplaces，thatthefleshofitsinhabitantsmightbegrassindeed，andgrowinginthesquares。

IwonderwhytheheadcoppersmithinanItaliantown，alwayslivesnextdoortotheHotel，oropposite:makingthevisitorfeelasifthebeatinghammerswerehisownheart，palpitatingwithadeadlyenergy！Iwonderwhyjealouscorridorssurroundthebedroomonallsides，andfillitwithunnecessarydoorsthatcan"tbeshut，andwillnotopen，andabutonpitchydarkness！Iwonderwhyitisnotenoughthatthesedistrustfulgeniistandagapeatone"sdreamsallnight，buttheremustalsoberoundopenportholes，highinthewall，suggestive，whenamouseorratisheardbehindthewainscot，ofasomebodyscrapingthewallwithhistoes，inhisendeavourstoreachoneoftheseportholesandlookin！Iwonderwhythefaggotsaresoconstructed，astoknowofnoeffectbutanagonyofheatwhentheyarelightedandreplenished，andanagonyofcoldandsuffocationatallothertimes！Iwonder，aboveall，whyitisthegreatfeatureofdomesticarchitectureinItalianinns，thatallthefiregoesupthechimney，exceptthesmoke！

Theanswermatterslittle。Coppersmiths，doors，portholes，smoke，andfaggots，arewelcometome。Givemethesmilingfaceoftheattendant，manorwoman；thecourteousmanner；theamiabledesiretopleaseandtobepleased；thelight-hearted，pleasant，simpleair-somanyjewelssetindirt-andIamtheirsagainto-morrow！

ARIOSTO"Shouse，TASSO"Sprison，arareoldGothiccathedral，andmorechurchesofcourse，arethesightsofFerrara。Butthelongsilentstreets，andthedismantledpalaces，whereivywavesinlieuofbanners，andwhererankweedsareslowlycreepingupthelong-

untroddenstairs，arethebestsightsofall。

Theaspectofthisdrearytown，halfanhourbeforesunriseonefinemorning，whenIleftit，wasaspicturesqueasitseemedunrealandspectral。Itwasnomatterthatthepeoplewerenotyetoutofbed；foriftheyhadallbeenupandbusy，theywouldhavemadebutlittledifferenceinthatdesertofaplace。Itwasbesttoseeit，withoutasinglefigureinthepicture；acityofthedead，withoutonesolitarysurvivor。Pestilencemighthaveravagedstreets，squares，andmarket-places；andsackandsiegehaveruinedtheoldhouses，battereddowntheirdoorsandwindows，andmadebreachesintheirroofs。Inonepart，agreattowerroseintotheair；theonlylandmarkinthemelancholyview。Inanother，aprodigiouscastle，withamoataboutit，stoodaloof:asullencityinitself。Intheblackdungeonsofthiscastle，Parisinaandherloverwerebeheadedinthedeadofnight。Theredlight，beginningtoshinewhenIlookedbackuponit，staineditswallswithout，astheyhave，manyatime，beenstainedwithin，inolddays；butforanysignoflifetheygave，thecastleandthecitymighthavebeenavoidedbyallhumancreatures，fromthemomentwhentheaxewentdownuponthelastofthetwolovers:andmighthavenevervibratedtoanothersoundBeyondtheblowthattotheblockPiercedthroughwithforcedandsullenshock。

ComingtothePo，whichwasgreatlyswollen，andrunningfiercely，wecrosseditbyafloatingbridgeofboats，andsocameintotheAustrianterritory，andresumedourjourney:throughacountryofwhich，forsomemiles，agreatpartwasunderwater。ThebraveCourierandthesoldieryhadfirstquarrelled，forhalfanhourormore，overoureternalpassport。ButthiswasadailyrelaxationwiththeBrave，whowasalwaysstrickendeafwhenshabbyfunctionariesinuniformcame，astheyconstantlydidcome，plungingoutofwoodenboxestolookatit-orinotherwordstobeg-andwho，stonedeaftomyentreatiesthatthemanmighthaveatriflegivenhim，andweresumeourjourneyinpeace，waswonttositrevilingthefunctionaryinbrokenEnglish:whiletheunfortunateman"sfacewasaportraitofmentalagonyframedinthecoachwindow，fromhisperfectignoranceofwhatwasbeingsaidtohisdisparagement。

Therewasapostilion，inthecourseofthisday"sjourney，aswildandsavagelygood-lookingavagabondasyouwoulddesiretosee。

Hewasatall，stout-made，dark-complexionedfellow，withaprofusionofshaggyblackhairhangingalloverhisface，andgreatblackwhiskersstretchingdownhisthroat。Hisdresswasatornsuitofriflegreen，garnishedhereandtherewithred；asteeple-

crownedhat，innocentofnap，withabrokenandbedraggledfeatherstuckintheband；andaflamingredneckerchiefhangingonhisshoulders。Hewasnotinthesaddle，butreposed，quiteathisease，onasortoflowfoot-boardinfrontofthepostchaise，downamongstthehorses"tails-convenientforhavinghisbrainskickedout，atanymoment。TothisBrigand，thebraveCourier，whenwewereatareasonabletrot，happenedtosuggestthepracticabilityofgoingfaster。Hereceivedtheproposalwithaperfectyellofderision；brandishedhiswhipabouthishead(suchawhip！itwasmorelikeahome-madebow)；flunguphisheels，muchhigherthanthehorses；anddisappeared，inaparoxysm，somewhereintheneighbourhoodoftheaxletree。Ifullyexpectedtoseehimlyingintheroad，ahundredyardsbehind，butupcamethesteeple-

crownedhatagain，nextminute，andhewasseenreposing，asonasofa，entertaininghimselfwiththeidea，andcrying，"Ha，ha！whatnext！Ohthedevil！Fastertoo！Shoo-hoo-o-o！"(Thislastejaculation，aninexpressiblydefianthoot。)Beinganxioustoreachourimmediatedestinationthatnight，Iventured，by-and-by，torepeattheexperimentonmyownaccount。Itproducedexactlythesameeffect。Roundflewthewhipwiththesamescornfulflourish，upcametheheels，downwentthesteeple-crownedhat，andpresentlyhereappeared，reposingasbeforeandsayingtohimself，"Haha！whatnext！Fastertoo！Ohthedevil！Shoo-hoo-o-

o！"

CHAPTERVII-ANITALIANDREAM

IHADbeentravelling，forsomedays；restingverylittleinthenight，andneverintheday。Therapidandunbrokensuccessionofnoveltiesthathadpassedbeforeme，camebacklikehalf-formeddreams；andacrowdofobjectswanderedinthegreatestconfusionthroughmymind，asItravelledon，byasolitaryroad。Atintervals，someoneamongthemwouldstop，asitwere，initsrestlessflittingtoandfro，andenablemetolookatit，quitesteadily，andbeholditinfulldistinctness。Afterafewmoments，itwoulddissolve，likeaviewinamagic-lantern；andwhileIsawsomepartofitquiteplainly，andsomefaintly，andsomenotatall，wouldshowmeanotherofthemanyplacesIhadlatelyseen，lingeringbehindit，andcomingthroughit。Thiswasnosoonervisiblethan，initsturn，itmeltedintosomethingelse。

Atonemoment，Iwasstandingagain，beforethebrownoldruggedchurchesofModena。AsIrecognisedthecuriouspillarswithgrimmonstersfortheirbases，Iseemedtoseethem，standingbythemselvesinthequietsquareatPadua，wheretherewerethestaidoldUniversity，andthefigures，demurelygowned，groupedhereandthereintheopenspaceaboutit。Then，Iwasstrollingintheoutskirtsofthatpleasantcity，admiringtheunusualneatnessofthedwelling-houses，gardens，andorchards，asIhadseenthemafewhoursbefore。Intheirsteadarose，immediately，thetwotowersofBologna；andthemostobstinateofalltheseobjects，failedtoholditsground，aminute，beforethemonstrousmoatedcastleofFerrara，which，likeanillustrationtoawildromance，camebackagainintheredsunrise，lordingitoverthesolitary，grass-grown，witheredtown。Inshort，Ihadthatincoherentbutdelightfuljumbleinmybrain，whichtravellersareapttohave，andareindolentlywillingtoencourage。EveryshakeofthecoachinwhichIsat，halfdozinginthedark，appearedtojerksomenewrecollectionoutofitsplace，andtojerksomeothernewrecollectionintoit；andinthisstateIfellasleep。

Iwasawakenedaftersometime(asIthought)bythestoppingofthecoach。Itwasnowquitenight，andwewereatthewaterside。

Therelayhere，ablackboat，withalittlehouseorcabininitofthesamemournfulcolour。WhenIhadtakenmyseatinthis，theboatwaspaddled，bytwomen，towardsagreatlight，lyinginthedistanceonthesea。

Everandagain，therewasadismalsighofwind。Itruffledthewater，androckedtheboat，andsentthedarkcloudsflyingbeforethestars。Icouldnotbutthinkhowstrangeitwas，tobefloatingawayatthathour:leavingthelandbehind，andgoingon，towardsthislightuponthesea。Itsoonbegantoburnbrighter；

andfrombeingonelightbecameaclusteroftapers，twinklingandshiningoutofthewater，astheboatapproachedtowardsthembyadreamykindoftrack，markedoutupontheseabypostsandpiles。

Wehadfloatedon，fivemilesorso，overthedarkwater，whenI

hearditripplinginmydream，againstsomeobstructionnearathand。Lookingoutattentively，Isaw，throughthegloom，asomethingblackandmassive-likeashore，butlyingcloseandflatuponthewater，likearaft-whichwewereglidingpast。Thechiefofthetworowerssaiditwasaburial-place。

Fulloftheinterestandwonderwhichacemeterylyingoutthere，inthelonelysea，inspired，Iturnedtogazeuponitasitshouldrecedeinourpath，whenitwasquicklyshutoutfrommyview。

BeforeIknewbywhat，orhow，Ifoundthatwewereglidingupastreet-aphantomstreet；thehousesrisingonbothsides，fromthewater，andtheblackboatglidingonbeneaththeirwindows。

Lightswereshiningfromsomeofthesecasements，plumbingthedepthoftheblackstreamwiththeirreflectedrays，butallwasprofoundlysilent。

Soweadvancedintothisghostlycity，continuingtoholdourcoursethroughnarrowstreetsandlanes，allfilledandflowingwithwater。Someofthecornerswhereourwaybranchedoff，weresoacuteandnarrow，thatitseemedimpossibleforthelongslenderboattoturnthem；buttherowers，withalowmelodiouscryofwarning，sentitskimmingonwithoutapause。Sometimes，therowersofanotherblackboatlikeourown，echoedthecry，andslackeningtheirspeed(asIthoughtwedidours)wouldcomeflittingpastuslikeadarkshadow。Otherboats，ofthesamesombrehue，werelyingmoored，Ithought，topaintedpillars，neartodarkmysteriousdoorsthatopenedstraightuponthewater。Someofthesewereempty；insome，therowerslayasleep；towardsone，I

sawsomefigurescomingdownagloomyarchwayfromtheinteriorofapalace:gailydressed，andattendedbytorch-bearers。ItwasbutaglimpseIhadofthem；forabridge，solowandcloseupontheboatthatitseemedreadytofalldownandcrushus:oneofthemanybridgesthatperplexedtheDream:blottedthemout，instantly。Onwewent，floatingtowardstheheartofthisstrangeplace-withwaterallaboutuswhereneverwaterwaselsewhere-

clustersofhouses，churches，heapsofstatelybuildingsgrowingoutofit-and，everywhere，thesameextraordinarysilence。

Presently，weshotacrossabroadandopenstream；andpassing，asIthought，beforeaspaciouspavedquay，wherethebrightlampswithwhichitwasilluminatedshowedlongrowsofarchesandpillars，ofponderousconstructionandgreatstrength，butaslighttotheeyeasgarlandsofhoarfrostorgossamer-andwhere，forthefirsttime，Isawpeoplewalking-arrivedataflightofstepsleadingfromthewatertoalargemansion，where，havingpassedthroughcorridorsandgalleriesinnumerable，Ilaydowntorest；

listeningtotheblackboatsstealingupanddownbelowthewindowontheripplingwater，tillIfellasleep。

ThegloryofthedaythatbrokeuponmeinthisDream；itsfreshness，motion，buoyancy；itssparklesofthesuninwater；itsclearblueskyandrustlingair；nowakingwordscantell。But，frommywindow，Ilookeddownonboatsandbarks；onmasts，sails，cordage，flags；ongroupsofbusysailors，workingatthecargoesofthesevessels；onwidequays，strewnwithbales，casks，merchandiseofmanykinds；ongreatships，lyingnearathandinstatelyindolence；onislands，crownedwithgorgeousdomesandturrets:andwheregoldencrossesglitteredinthelight，atopofwondrouschurches，springingfromthesea！Goingdownuponthemarginofthegreensea，rollingonbeforethedoor，andfillingallthestreets，Icameuponaplaceofsuchsurpassingbeauty，andsuchgrandeur，thatalltherestwaspoorandfaded，incomparisonwithitsabsorbingloveliness。

ItwasagreatPiazza，asIthought；anchored，likealltherest，inthedeepocean。Onitsbroadbosom，wasaPalace，moremajesticandmagnificentinitsoldage，thanallthebuildingsoftheearth，inthehighprimeandfulnessoftheiryouth。Cloistersandgalleries:solight，theymighthavebeentheworkoffairyhands:

sostrongthatcenturieshadbatteredtheminvain:woundroundandroundthispalace，andenfoldeditwithaCathedral，gorgeousinthewildluxuriantfanciesoftheEast。Atnogreatdistancefromitsporch，aloftytower，standingbyitself，andrearingitsproudhead，alone，intothesky，lookedoutupontheAdriaticSea。

Neartothemarginofthestream，weretwoill-omenedpillarsofredgranite；onehavingonitstop，afigurewithaswordandshield；theother，awingedlion。Notfarfromtheseagain，asecondtower:richestoftherichinallitsdecorations:evenhere，whereallwasrich:sustainedaloft，agreatorb，gleamingwithgoldanddeepestblue:theTwelveSignspaintedonit，andamimicsunrevolvinginitscoursearoundthem:whileabove，twobronzegiantshammeredoutthehoursuponasoundingbell。Anoblongsquareofloftyhousesofthewhiteststone，surroundedbyalightandbeautifularcade，formedpartofthisenchantedscene；

and，hereandthere，gaymastsforflagsrose，tapering，fromthepavementoftheunsubstantialground。

IthoughtIenteredtheCathedral，andwentinandoutamongitsmanyarches:traversingitswholeextent。Agrandanddreamystructure，ofimmenseproportions；goldenwitholdmosaics；

redolentofperfumes；dimwiththesmokeofincense；costlyintreasureofpreciousstonesandmetals，glitteringthroughironbars；holywiththebodiesofdeceasedsaints；rainbow-huedwithwindowsofstainedglass；darkwithcarvedwoodsandcolouredmarbles；obscureinitsvastheights，andlengtheneddistances；

shiningwithsilverlampsandwinkinglights；unreal，fantastic，solemn，inconceivablethroughout。IthoughtIenteredtheoldpalace；pacingsilentgalleriesandcouncil-chambers，wheretheoldrulersofthismistressofthewaterslookedsternlyout，inpictures，fromthewalls，andwhereherhigh-prowedgalleys，stillvictoriousoncanvas，foughtandconqueredasofold。IthoughtI

wanderedthroughitshallsofstateandtriumph-bareandemptynow！-andmusingonitsprideandmight，extinct:forthatwaspast；allpast:heardavoicesay，"Sometokensofitsancientruleandsomeconsolingreasonsforitsdownfall，maybetracedhere，yet！"

IdreamedthatIwasledon，then，intosomejealousrooms，communicatingwithaprisonnearthepalace；separatedfromitbyaloftybridgecrossinganarrowstreet；andcalled，Idreamed，TheBridgeofSighs。

ButfirstIpassedtwojaggedslitsinastonewall；thelions"

mouths-nowtoothless-where，inthedistemperedhorrorofmysleep，IthoughtdenunciationsofinnocentmentotheoldwickedCouncil，hadbeendroppedthrough，manyatime，whenthenightwasdark。So，whenIsawthecouncil-roomtowhichsuchprisonersweretakenforexamination，andthedoorbywhichtheypassedout，whentheywerecondemned-adoorthatnevercloseduponamanwithlifeandhopebeforehim-myheartappearedtodiewithinme。

Itwassmittenharderthough，when，torchinhand，Idescendedfromthecheerfuldayintotworanges，onebelowanother，ofdismal，awful，horriblestonecells。Theywerequitedark。Eachhadaloop-holeinitsmassivewall，where，intheoldtime，everyday，atorchwasplaced-Idreamed-tolighttheprisonerwithin，forhalfanhour。Thecaptives，bytheglimmeringofthesebriefrays，hadscratchedandcutinscriptionsintheblackenedvaults。Isawthem。Fortheirlabourwitharustynail"spoint，hadoutlivedtheiragonyandthem，throughmanygenerations。

Onecell，Isaw，inwhichnomanremainedformorethanfour-and-

twentyhours；beingmarkedfordeadbeforeheenteredit。Hardby，another，andadismalone，whereto，atmidnight，theconfessorcame-amonkbrown-robed，andhooded-ghastlyintheday，andfreebrightair，butinthemidnightofthatmurkyprison，Hope"sextinguisher，andMurder"sherald。Ihadmyfootuponthespot，where，atthesamedreadhour，theshrivenprisonerwasstrangled；

andstruckmyhandupontheguiltydoor-low-browedandstealthy-

throughwhichthelumpishsackwascarriedoutintoaboat，androwedaway，anddrownedwhereitwasdeathtocastanet。

Aroundthisdungeonstronghold，andabovesomepartofit:lickingtheroughwallswithout，andsmearingthemwithdampandslimewithin:stuffingdankweedsandrefuseintochinksandcrevices，asiftheverystonesandbarshadmouthstostop:furnishingasmoothroadfortheremovalofthebodiesofthesecretvictimsoftheState-aroadsoreadythatitwentalongwiththem，andranbeforethem，likeacruelofficer-flowedthesamewaterthatfilledthisDreamofmine，andmadeitseemone，evenatthetime。

Descendingfromthepalacebyastaircase，called，Ithought，theGiant"s-Ihadsomeimaginaryrecollectionofanoldmanabdicating，coming，moreslowlyandmorefeebly，downit，whenheheardthebell，proclaiminghissuccessor-Iglidedoff，inoneofthedarkboats，untilwecametoanoldarsenalguardedbyfourmarblelions。TomakemyDreammoremonstrousandunlikely，oneofthesehadwordsandsentencesuponitsbody，inscribedthere，atanunknowntime，andinanunknownlanguage；sothattheirpurportwasamysterytoallmen。

Therewaslittlesoundofhammersinthisplaceforbuildingships，andlittleworkinprogress；forthegreatnessofthecitywasnomore，asIhavesaid。Indeed，itseemedaverywreckfounddriftingonthesea；astrangeflaghoistedinitshonourablestations，andstrangersstandingatitshelm。Asplendidbargeinwhichitsancientchiefhadgoneforth，pompously，atcertainperiods，towedtheocean，layhere，Ithought，nomore；but，initsplace，therewasatinymodel，madefromrecollectionlikethecity"sgreatness；andittoldofwhathadbeen(soarethestrongandweakconfoundedinthedust)almostaseloquentlyasthemassivepillars，arches，roofs，rearedtoovershadowstatelyshipsthathadnoothershadownow，uponthewaterortheearth。

Anarmourywasthereyet。Plunderedanddespoiled；butanarmoury。

WithafiercestandardtakenfromtheTurks，droopinginthedullairofitscage。Richsuitsofmailwornbygreatwarriorswerehoardedthere；crossbowsandbolts；quiversfullofarrows；spears；

swords，daggers，maces，shields，andheavy-headedaxes。Platesofwroughtsteelandiron，tomakethegallanthorseamonstercasedinmetalscales；andonespring-weapon(easytobecarriedinthebreast)designedtodoitsofficenoiselessly，andmadeforshootingmenwithpoisoneddarts。

OnepressorcaseIsaw，fullofaccursedinstrumentsoftorturehorriblycontrivedtocramp，andpinch，andgrindandcrushmen"sbones，andtearandtwistthemwiththetormentofathousanddeaths。Beforeit，weretwoironhelmets，withbreast-pieces:

madetocloseuptightandsmoothupontheheadsoflivingsufferers；andfastenedontoeach，wasasmallknoboranvil，wherethedirectingdevilcouldreposehiselbowathisease，andlisten，nearthewalled-upear，tothelamentationsandconfessionsofthewretchwithin。Therewasthatgrimresemblanceinthemtothehumanshape-theyweresuchmouldsofsweatingfaces，painedandcramped-thatitwasdifficulttothinkthemempty；andterribledistortionslingeringwithinthem，seemedtofollowme，when，takingtomyboatagain，Irowedofftoakindofgardenorpublicwalkinthesea，wherethereweregrassandtrees。ButI

forgotthemwhenIstooduponitsfarthestbrink-Istoodthere，inmydream-andlooked，alongtheripple，tothesettingsun；

beforeme，intheskyandonthedeep，acrimsonflush；andbehindmethewholecityresolvingintostreaksofredandpurple，onthewater。

Intheluxuriouswonderofsorareadream，Itookbutlittleheedoftime，andhadbutlittleunderstandingofitsflight。Butthereweredaysandnightsinit；andwhenthesunwashigh，andwhentheraysoflampswerecrookedintherunningwater，Iwasstillafloat，Ithought:plashingtheslipperywallsandhouseswiththecleavingsofthetide，asmyblackboat，borneuponit，skimmedalongthestreets。

Sometimes，alightingatthedoorsofchurchesandvastpalaces，I

wanderedon，fromroomtoroom，fromaisletoaisle，throughlabyrinthsofrichaltars，ancientmonuments；decayedapartmentswherethefurniture，halfawful，halfgrotesque，wasmoulderingaway。Pictureswerethere，repletewithsuchenduringbeautyandexpression:withsuchpassion，truthandpower:thattheyseemedsomanyyoungandfreshrealitiesamongahostofspectres。I

thoughtthese，oftenintermingledwiththeolddaysofthecity:

withitsbeauties，tyrants，captains，patriots，merchants，counters，priests:nay，withitsverystones，andbricks，andpublicplaces；allofwhichlivedagain，aboutme，onthewalls。

Then，comingdownsomemarblestaircasewherethewaterlappedandoozedagainstthelowersteps，Ipassedintomyboatagain，andwentoninmydream。

Floatingdownnarrowlanes，wherecarpenters，atworkwithplaneandchiselintheirshops，tossedthelightshavingstraightuponthewater，whereitlaylikeweed，orebbedawaybeforemeinatangledheap。Pastopendoors，decayedandrottenfromlongsteepinginthewet，throughwhichsomescantypatchofvineshonegreenandbright，makingunusualshadowsonthepavementwithitstremblingleaves。Pastquaysandterraces，wherewomen，gracefullyveiled，werepassingandrepassing，andwhereidlerswerereclininginthesun-shine，onflag-stonesandonflightsofsteps。Pastbridges，wheretherewereidlerstoo；loiteringandlookingover。

Belowstonebalconies，erectedatagiddyheight，beforetheloftiestwindowsoftheloftiesthouses。Pastplotsofgarden，theatres，shrines，prodigiouspilesofarchitecture-Gothic-

Saracenic-fancifulwithallthefanciesofalltimesandcountries。Pastbuildingsthatwerehigh，andlow，andblack，andwhite，andstraight，andcrooked；meanandgrand，crazyandstrong。

Twiningamongatangledlotofboatsandbarges，andshootingoutatlastintoaGrandCanal！There，intheerrantfancyofmydream，IsawoldShylockpassingtoandfrouponabridge，allbuiltuponwithshopsandhummingwiththetonguesofmen；aformI

seemedtoknowforDesdemona"s，leaneddownthroughalatticedblindtopluckaflower。And，inthedream，IthoughtthatShakespeare"sspiritwasabroaduponthewatersomewhere:stealingthroughthecity。

Atnight，whentwovotivelampsburntbeforeanimageoftheVirgin，inagalleryoutsidethegreatcathedral，neartheroof，I

fanciedthatthegreatpiazzaoftheWingedLionwasablazeofcheerfullight，andthatitswholearcadewasthrongedwithpeople；

whilecrowdsweredivertingthemselvesinsplendidcoffee-housesopeningfromit-whichwerenevershut，Ithought，butopenallnightlong。Whenthebronzegiantsstruckthehourofmidnightonthebell，Ithoughtthelifeandanimationofthecitywereallcentredhere；andasIrowedaway，abreastthesilentquays，Ionlysawthemdotted，hereandthere，withsleepingboatmenwrappedupintheircloaks，andlyingatfulllengthuponthestones。

Butcloseaboutthequaysandchurches，palacesandprisonssuckingattheirwalls，andwellingupintothesecretplacesofthetown:

creptthewateralways。Noiselessandwatchful:coiledroundandroundit，initsmanyfolds，likeanoldserpent:waitingforthetime，Ithought，whenpeopleshouldlookdownintoitsdepthsforanystoneoftheoldcitythathadclaimedtobeitsmistress。

Thusitfloatedmeaway，untilIawokeintheoldmarket-placeatVerona。Ihave，manyandmanyatime，thoughtsince，ofthisstrangeDreamuponthewater:half-wonderingifitliethereyet，andifitsnamebeVENICE。

CHAPTERVIII-BYVERONA，MANTUA，ANDMILAN，ACROSSTHEPASSOFTHE

SIMPLONINTOSWITZERLAND

IHADbeenhalfafraidtogotoVerona，lestitshouldatallputmeoutofconceitwithRomeoandJuliet。But，Iwasnosoonercomeintotheoldmarket-place，thanthemisgivingvanished。Itissofanciful，quaint，andpicturesqueaplace，formedbysuchanextraordinaryandrichvarietyoffantasticbuildings，thattherecouldbenothingbetteratthecoreofeventhisromantictown:

sceneofoneofthemostromanticandbeautifulofstories。

Itwasnaturalenough，togostraightfromtheMarket-place，totheHouseoftheCapulets，nowdegeneratedintoamostmiserablelittleinn。Noisyvetturiniandmuddymarket-cartsweredisputingpossessionoftheyard，whichwasankle-deepindirt，withabroodofsplashedandbespatteredgeese；andtherewasagrim-visageddog，viciouslypantinginadoorway，whowouldcertainlyhavehadRomeobytheleg，themomentheputitoverthewall，ifhehadexistedandbeenatlargeinthosetimes。Theorchardfellintootherhands，andwaspartedoffmanyyearsago；butthereusedtobeoneattachedtothehouse-oratalleventstheremayhave，been，-andthehat(Cappello)theancientcognizanceofthefamily，maystillbeseen，carvedinstone，overthegatewayoftheyard。Thegeese，themarket-carts，theirdrivers，andthedog，weresomewhatinthewayofthestory，itmustbeconfessed；anditwouldhavebeenpleasantertohavefoundthehouseempty，andtohavebeenabletowalkthroughthedisusedrooms。Butthehatwasunspeakablycomfortable；andtheplacewherethegardenusedtobe，hardlylessso。Besides，thehouseisadistrustful，jealous-

lookinghouseasonewoulddesiretosee，thoughofaverymoderatesize。SoIwasquitesatisfiedwithit，astheveritablemansionofoldCapulet，andwascorrespondinglygratefulinmyacknowledgmentstoanextremelyunsentimentalmiddle-agedlady，thePadronaoftheHotel，whowasloungingonthethresholdlookingatthegeese；andwhoatleastresembledtheCapuletsintheoneparticularofbeingverygreatindeedinthe"Family"way。

FromJuliet"shome，toJuliet"stomb，isatransitionasnaturaltothevisitor，astofairJulietherself，ortotheproudestJulietthateverhastaughtthetorchestoburnbrightinanytime。So，I

wentoff，withaguide，toanold，oldgarden，oncebelongingtoanold，oldconvent，Isuppose；andbeingadmitted，atashatteredgate，byabright-eyedwomanwhowaswashingclothes，wentdownsomewalkswherefreshplantsandyoungflowerswereprettilygrowingamongfragmentsofoldwall，andivy-colouredmounds；andwasshownalittletank，orwater-trough，whichthebright-eyedwoman-dryingherarmsuponher"kerchief，called"LatombadiGiuliettalasfortunata。"Withthebestdispositionintheworldtobelieve，Icoulddonomorethanbelievethatthebright-eyedwomanbelieved；soIgaveherthatmuchcredit，andhercustomaryfeeinreadymoney。Itwasapleasure，ratherthanadisappointment，thatJuliet"sresting-placewasforgotten。HoweverconsolatoryitmayhavebeentoYorick"sGhost，tohearthefeetuponthepavementoverhead，and，twentytimesaday，therepetitionofhisname，itisbetterforJuliettolieoutofthetrackoftourists，andtohavenovisitorsbutsuchascometogravesinspring-rain，andsweetair，andsunshine。

PleasantVerona！Withitsbeautifuloldpalaces，andcharmingcountryinthedistance，seenfromterracewalks，andstately，balustradedgalleries。WithitsRomangates，stillspanningthefairstreet，andcasting，onthesunlightofto-day，theshadeoffifteenhundredyearsago。Withitsmarble-fittedchurches，loftytowers，richarchitecture，andquaintoldquietthoroughfares，whereshoutsofMontaguesandCapuletsonceresounded，AndmadeVerona"sancientcitizensCastbytheirgrave，beseemingornaments，Towieldoldpartizans。

Withitsfast-rushingriver，picturesqueoldbridge，greatcastle，wavingcypresses，andprospectsodelightful，andsocheerful！

PleasantVerona！

Inthemidstofit，inthePiazzadiBra-aspiritofoldtimeamongthefamiliarrealitiesofthepassinghour-isthegreatRomanAmphitheatre。Sowellpreserved，andcarefullymaintained，thateveryrowofseatsisthere，unbroken。Overcertainofthearches，theoldRomannumeralsmayyetbeseen；andtherearecorridors，andstaircases，andsubterraneanpassagesforbeasts，andwindingways，abovegroundandbelow，aswhenthefiercethousandshurriedinandout，intentuponthebloodyshowsofthearena。Nestlinginsomeoftheshadowsandhollowplacesofthewalls，now，aresmithswiththeirforges，andafewsmalldealersofonekindorother；andtherearegreenweeds，andleaves，andgrass，upontheparapet。Butlittleelseisgreatlychanged。

WhenIhadtraversedallaboutit，withgreatinterest，andhadgoneuptothetopmostroundofseats，andturningfromthelovelypanoramaclosedinbythedistantAlps，lookeddownintothebuilding，itseemedtoliebeforemeliketheinsideofaprodigioushatofplaitedstraw，withanenormouslybroadbrimandashallowcrown；theplaitsbeingrepresentedbythefour-and-fortyrowsofseats。Thecomparisonisahomelyandfantasticone，insoberremembranceandonpaper，butitwasirresistiblysuggestedatthemoment，nevertheless。

Anequestriantroophadbeenthere，ashorttimebefore-thesametroop，Idaresay，thatappearedtotheoldladyinthechurchatModena-andhadscoopedoutalittleringatoneendofthearea；

wheretheirperformanceshadtakenplace，andwherethemarksoftheirhorses"feetwerestillfresh。Icouldnotbutpicturetomyself，ahandfulofspectatorsgatheredtogetherononeortwooftheoldstoneseats，andaspangledCavalierbeinggallant，oraPolicinellofunny，withthegrimwallslookingon。Aboveall，I

thoughthowstrangelythoseRomanmuteswouldgazeuponthefavouritecomicsceneofthetravellingEnglish，whereaBritishnobleman(LordJohn)，withaveryloosestomach:dressedinablue-tailedcoatdowntohisheels，brightyellowbreeches，andawhitehat:comesabroad，ridingdoubleonarearinghorse，withanEnglishlady(LadyBetsy)inastrawbonnetandgreenveil，andaredspencer；andwhoalwayscarriesagiganticreticule，andaput-

upparasol。

Iwalkedthroughandthroughthetownalltherestoftheday，andcouldhavewalkedthereuntilnow，Ithink。Inoneplace，therewasaveryprettymoderntheatre，wheretheyhadjustperformedtheopera(alwayspopularinVerona)ofRomeoandJuliet。Inanothertherewasacollection，underacolonnade，ofGreek，Roman，andEtruscanremains，presidedoverbyanancientmanwhomighthavebeenanEtruscanrelichimself；forhewasnotstrongenoughtoopentheirongate，whenhehadunlockedit，andhadneithervoiceenoughtobeaudiblewhenhedescribedthecuriosities，norsightenoughtoseethem:hewassoveryold。Inanotherplace，therewasagalleryofpictures:soabominablybad，thatitwasquitedelightfultoseethemmoulderingaway。Butanywhere:inthechurches，amongthepalaces，inthestreets，onthebridge，ordownbesidetheriver:itwasalwayspleasantVerona，andinmyremembrancealwayswillbe。

IreadRomeoandJulietinmyownroomattheinnthatnight-ofcourse，noEnglishmanhadeverreaditthere，before-andsetoutforMantuanextdayatsunrise，repeatingtomyself(intheCOUPE

ofanomnibus，andnexttotheconductor，whowasreadingtheMysteriesofParis)，ThereisnoworldwithoutVerona"swallsButpurgatory，torture，hellitself。

Hence-banishedisbanishedfromtheworld，Andworld"sexileisdeath-

whichremindedmethatRomeowasonlybanishedfive-and-twentymilesafterall，andratherdisturbedmyconfidenceinhisenergyandboldness。

WasthewaytoMantuaasbeautiful，inhistime，Iwonder！Diditwindthroughpasturelandasgreen，brightwiththesameglancingstreams，anddottedwithfreshclumpsofgracefultrees！Thosepurplemountainslayonthehorizon，then，forcertain；andthedressesofthesepeasantgirls，whowearagreat，knobbed，silverpinlikeanEnglish"life-preserver"throughtheirhairbehind，canhardlybemuchchanged。Thehopefulfeelingofsobrightamorning，andsoexquisiteasunrise，canhavebeennostranger，eventoanexiledlover"sbreast；andMantuaitselfmusthavebrokenonhimintheprospect，withitstowers，andwalls，andwater，prettymuchasonacommon-placeandmatrimonialomnibus。

Hemadethesamesharptwistsandturns，perhaps，overtworumblingdrawbridges；passedthroughthelikelong，covered，woodenbridge；

andleavingthemarshywaterbehind，approachedtherustygateofstagnantMantua。

Ifeveramanweresuitedtohisplaceofresidence，andhisplaceofresidencetohim，theleanApothecaryandMantuacametogetherinaperfectfitnessofthings。Itmayhavebeenmorestirringthen，perhaps。Ifso，theApothecarywasamaninadvanceofhistime，andknewwhatMantuawouldbe，ineighteenhundredandforty-

four。Hefastedmuch，andthatassistedhiminhisforeknowledge。

IputupattheHoteloftheGoldenLion，andwasinmyownroomarrangingplanswiththebraveCourier，whentherecameamodestlittletapatthedoor，whichopenedonanoutergallerysurroundingacourt-yard；andanintenselyshabbylittlemanlookedin，toinquireifthegentlemanwouldhaveaCiceronetoshowthetown。Hisfacewassoverywistfulandanxious，inthehalf-openeddoorway，andtherewassomuchpovertyexpressedinhisfadedsuitandlittlepinchedhat，andinthethread-bareworstedglovewithwhichheheldit-notexpressedtheless，becausethesewereevidentlyhisgenteelclothes，hastilyslippedon-thatIwouldassoonhavetroddenonhimasdismissedhim。Iengagedhimontheinstant，andhesteppedindirectly。

WhileIfinishedthediscussioninwhichIwasengaged，hestood，beamingbyhimselfinacorner，makingafeintofbrushingmyhatwithhisarm。Ifhisfeehadbeenasmanynapoleonsasitwasfrancs，therecouldnothaveshotoverthetwilightofhisshabbinesssuchagleamofsun，aslightedupthewholeman，nowthathewashired。

"Well！"saidI，whenIwasready，"shallwegooutnow?"

"Ifthegentlemanpleases。Itisabeautifulday。Alittlefresh，butcharming；altogethercharming。Thegentlemanwillallowmetoopenthedoor。ThisistheInnYard。Thecourt-yardoftheGoldenLion！Thegentlemanwillpleasetomindhisfootingonthestairs。"

Wewerenowinthestreet。

"ThisisthestreetoftheGoldenLion。This，theoutsideoftheGoldenLion。Theinterestingwindowupthere，onthefirstPiano，wherethepaneofglassisbroken，isthewindowofthegentleman"schamber！"

Havingviewedalltheseremarkableobjects，IinquiredifthereweremuchtoseeinMantua。

"Well！Truly，no。Notmuch！So，so，"hesaid，shrugginghisshouldersapologetically。

"Manychurches?"

"No。NearlyallsuppressedbytheFrench。"

"Monasteriesorconvents?"

"No。TheFrenchagain！NearlyallsuppressedbyNapoleon。"

"Muchbusiness?"

"Verylittlebusiness。"

"Manystrangers?"

"AhHeaven！"

Ithoughthewouldhavefainted。

"Then，whenwehaveseenthetwolargechurchesyonder，whatshallwedonext?"saidI。

Helookedupthestreet，anddownthestreet，andrubbedhischintimidly；andthensaid，glancinginmyfaceasifalighthadbrokenonhismind，yetwithahumbleappealtomyforbearancethatwasperfectlyirresistible:

"Wecantakealittleturnaboutthetown，Signore！"(Sipuofar"unpiccologirodellacitta)。

Itwasimpossibletobeanythingbutdelightedwiththeproposal，sowesetofftogetheringreatgood-humour。Inthereliefofhismind，heopenedhisheart，andgaveupasmuchofMantuaasaCiceronecould。

"Onemusteat，"hesaid；"but，bah！itwasadullplace，withoutdoubt！"

HemadeasmuchaspossibleoftheBasilicaofSantaAndrea-anoblechurch-andofaninclosedportionofthepavement，aboutwhichtaperswereburning，andafewpeoplekneeling，andunderwhichissaidtobepreservedtheSangrealoftheoldRomances。

Thischurchdisposedof，andanotherafterit(thecathedralofSanPietro)，wewenttotheMuseum，whichwasshutup。"Itwasallthesame，"hesaid。"Bah！Therewasnotmuchinside！"Then，wewenttoseethePiazzadelDiavolo，builtbytheDevil(fornoparticularpurpose)inasinglenight；then，thePiazzaVirgiliana；

then，thestatueofVirgil-OURPoet，mylittlefriendsaid，pluckingupaspirit，forthemoment，andputtinghishatalittleononeside。Then，wewenttoadismalsortoffarm-yard，bywhichapicture-gallerywasapproached。Themomentthegateofthisretreatwasopened，somefivehundredgeesecamewaddlingroundus，stretchingouttheirnecks，andclamouringinthemosthideousmanner，asiftheywereejaculating，"Oh！here"ssomebodycometoseethePictures！Don"tgoup！Don"tgoup！"Whilewewentup，theywaitedveryquietlyaboutthedoorinacrowd，cacklingtooneanotheroccasionally，inasubduedtone；buttheinstantweappearedagain，theirneckscameoutliketelescopes，andsettingupagreatnoise，whichmeant，Ihavenodoubt，"What，youwouldgo，wouldyou！Whatdoyouthinkofit！Howdoyoulikeit！"theyattendedustotheoutergate，andcastusforth，derisively，intoMantua。

ThegeesewhosavedtheCapitol，were，ascomparedtothese，PorktothelearnedPig。Whatagalleryitwas！Iwouldtaketheiropiniononaquestionofart，inpreferencetothediscoursesofSirJoshuaReynolds。

Nowthatwewerestandinginthestreet，afterbeingthusignominioulyescortedthither，mylittlefriendwasplainlyreducedtothe"piccologiro，"orlittlecircuitofthetown，hehadformerlyproposed。ButmysuggestionthatweshouldvisitthePalazzoTe(ofwhichIhadheardagreatdeal，asastrangewildplace)impartednewlifetohim，andawaywewent。

ThesecretofthelengthofMidas"sears，wouldhavebeenmoreextensivelyknown，ifthatservantofhis，whowhisperedittothereeds，hadlivedinMantua，wheretherearereedsandrushesenoughtohavepublishedittoalltheworld。ThePalazzoTestandsinaswamp，amongthissortofvegetation；andis，indeed，assingularaplaceasIeversaw。

Notforitsdreariness，thoughitisverydreary。Notforitsdampness，thoughitisverydamp。Norforitsdesolatecondition，thoughitisasdesolateandneglectedashousecanbe。Butchieflyfortheunaccountablenightmareswithwhichitsinteriorhasbeendecorated(amongothersubjectsofmoredelicateexecution)，byGiulioRomano。ThereisaleeringGiantoveracertainchimney-piece，andtherearedozensofGiants(TitanswarringwithJove)onthewallsofanotherroom，soinconceivablyuglyandgrotesque，thatitismarvelloushowanymancanhaveimaginedsuchcreatures。Inthechamberinwhichtheyabound，thesemonsters，withswollenfacesandcrackedcheeks，andeverykindofdistortionoflookandlimb，aredepictedasstaggeringundertheweightoffallingbuildings，andbeingoverwhelmedintheruins；upheavingmassesofrock，andburyingthemselvesbeneath；

vainlystrivingtosustainthepillarsofheavyroofsthattoppledownupontheirheads；and，inaword，undergoinganddoingeverykindofmadanddemoniacaldestruction。Thefiguresareimmenselylarge，andexaggeratedtotheutmostpitchofuncouthness；thecolouringisharshanddisagreeable；andthewholeeffectmorelike(Ishouldimagine)aviolentrushofbloodtotheheadofthespectator，thananyrealpicturesetbeforehimbythehandofanartist。Thisapoplecticperformancewasshownbyasickly-lookingwoman，whoseappearancewasreferable，Idaresay，tothebadairofthemarshes；butitwasdifficulttohelpfeelingasifsheweretoomuchhauntedbytheGiants，andtheywerefrighteninghertodeath，allaloneinthatexhaustedcisternofaPalace，amongthereedsandrushes，withthemistshoveringaboutoutside，andstalkingroundandrounditcontinually。

OurwalkthroughMantuashowedus，inalmosteverystreet，somesuppressedchurch:nowusedforawarehouse，nowfornothingatall:allascrazyanddismantledastheycouldbe，shortoftumblingdownbodily。Themarshytownwassointenselydullandflat，thatthedirtuponitseemednottohavecomethereintheordinarycourse，buttohavesettledandmantledonitssurfaceasonstandingwater。Andyetthereweresomebusiness-dealingsgoingon，andsomeprofitsrealising；fortherewerearcadesfullofJews，wherethoseextraordinarypeopleweresittingoutsidetheirshops，contemplatingtheirstoresofstuffs，andwoollens，andbrighthandkerchiefs，andtrinkets:andlooking，inallrespects，aswaryandbusiness-like，astheirbrethreninHoundsditch，London。

HavingselectedaVetturinofromamongtheneighbouringChristians，whoagreedtocarryustoMilanintwodaysandahalf，andtostart，nextmorning，assoonasthegateswereopened，IreturnedtotheGoldenLion，anddinedluxuriouslyinmyownroom，inanarrowpassagebetweentwobedsteads:confrontedbyasmokyfire，andbackedupbyachestofdrawers。Atsixo"clocknextmorning，wewerejinglinginthedarkthroughthewetcoldmistthatenshroudedthetown；and，beforenoon，thedriver(anativeofMantua，andsixtyyearsofageorthereabouts)beganTOASKTHEWAY

toMilan。

ItlaythroughBozzolo；formerlyalittlerepublic，andnowoneofthemostdesertedandpoverty-strickenoftowns:wherethelandlordofthemiserableinn(Godblesshim！itwashisweeklycustom)wasdistributinginfinitesimalcoinsamongaclamorousherdofwomenandchildren，whoseragswereflutteringinthewindandrainoutsidehisdoor，wheretheyweregatheredtoreceivehischarity。Itlaythroughmist，andmud，andrain，andvinestrainedlowupontheground，allthatdayandthenext；thefirstsleeping-

placebeingCremona，memorableforitsdarkbrickchurches，andimmenselyhightower，theTorrazzo-tosaynothingofitsviolins，ofwhichitcertainlyproducesnoneinthesedegeneratedays；andthesecond，Lodi。Thenwewenton，throughmoremud，mist，andrain，andmarshyground:andthroughsuchafog，asEnglishmen，stronginthefaithoftheirowngrievances，areapttobelieveisnowheretobefoundbutintheirowncountry，untilweenteredthepavedstreetsofMilan。

Thefogwassodensehere，thatthespireofthefar-famedCathedralmightaswellhavebeenatBombay，foranythingthatcouldbeseenofitatthattime。Butaswehaltedtorefresh，forafewdaysthen，andreturnedtoMilanagainnextsummer，Ihadampleopportunitiesofseeingthegloriousstructureinallitsmajestyandbeauty。

AllChristianhomagetothesaintwholieswithinit！Therearemanygoodandtruesaintsinthecalendar，butSanCarloBorromeohas-ifImayquoteMrs。Primroseonsuchasubject-"mywarmheart。"Acharitabledoctortothesick，amunificentfriendtothepoor，andthis，notinanyspiritofblindbigotry，butastheboldopponentofenormousabusesintheRomishchurch，Ihonourhismemory。Ihonouritnonetheless，becausehewasnearlyslainbyapriest，suborned，bypriests，tomurderhimatthealtar:inacknowledgmentofhisendeavourstoreformafalseandhypocriticalbrotherhoodofmonks。HeavenshieldallimitatorsofSanCarloBorromeoasitshieldedhim！AreformingPopewouldneedalittleshielding，evennow。

ThesubterraneanchapelinwhichthebodyofSanCarloBorromeoispreserved，presentsasstrikingandasghastlyacontrast，perhaps，asanyplacecanshow。Thetaperswhicharelighteddownthere，flashandgleamonalti-rilieviingoldandsilver，delicatelywroughtbyskilfulhands，andrepresentingtheprincipaleventsinthelifeofthesaint。Jewels，andpreciousmetals，shineandsparkleoneveryside。Awindlassslowlyremovesthefrontofthealtar；and，withinit，inagorgeousshrineofgoldandsilver，isseen，throughalabaster，theshrivelledmummyofaman:thepontificalrobeswithwhichitisadorned，radiantwithdiamonds，emeralds，rubies:everycostlyandmagnificentgem。Theshrunkenheapofpoorearthinthemidstofthisgreatglitter，ismorepitifulthanifitlayuponadung-hill。Thereisnotarayofimprisonedlightinalltheflashandfireofjewels，butseemstomockthedustyholeswhereeyeswere，once。Everythreadofsilkintherichvestmentsseemsonlyaprovisionfromthewormsthatspin，forthebehoofofwormsthatpropagateinsepulchres。

IntheoldrefectoryofthedilapidatedConventofSantaMariadelleGrazie，istheworkofart，perhaps，betterknownthananyotherintheworld:theLastSupper，byLeonardodaVinci-withadoorcutthroughitbytheintelligentDominicanfriars，tofacilitatetheiroperationsatdinner-time。

Iamnotmechanicallyacquaintedwiththeartofpainting，andhavenoothermeansofjudgingofapicturethanasIseeitresemblingandrefininguponnature，andpresentinggracefulcombinationsofformsandcolours。Iam，therefore，noauthoritywhatever，inreferencetothe"touch"ofthisorthatmaster；thoughIknowverywell(asanybodymay，whochoosestothinkaboutthematter)thatfewverygreatmasterscanpossiblyhavepainted，inthecompassoftheirlives，one-halfofthepicturesthatbeartheirnames，andthatarerecognisedbymanyaspirantstoareputationfortaste，asundoubtedoriginals。Butthis，bytheway。OftheLastSupper，I

wouldsimplyobserve，thatinitsbeautifulcompositionandarrangement，thereitis，atMilan，awonderfulpicture；andthat，initsoriginalcolouring，orinitsoriginalexpressionofanysinglefaceorfeature，thereitisnot。Apartfromthedamageithassustainedfromdamp，decay，orneglect，ithasbeen(asBarryshows)soretouchedupon，andrepainted，andthatsoclumsily，thatmanyoftheheadsare，now，positivedeformities，withpatchesofpaintandplasterstickinguponthemlikewens，andutterlydistortingtheexpression。Wheretheoriginalartistsetthatimpressofhisgeniusonaface，which，almostinalineortouch，separatedhimfrommeanerpaintersandmadehimwhathewas，succeedingbunglers，fillingup，orpaintingacrossseamsandcracks，havebeenquiteunabletoimitatehishand；andputtinginsomescowls，orfrowns，orwrinkles，oftheirown，haveblotchedandspoiledthework。Thisissowellestablishedasanhistoricalfact，thatIshouldnotrepeatit，attheriskofbeingtedious，butforhavingobservedanEnglishgentlemanbeforethepicture，whowasatgreatpainstofallintowhatImaydescribeasmildconvulsions，atcertainminutedetailsofexpressionwhicharenotleftinit。Whereas，itwouldbecomfortableandrationalfortravellersandcriticstoarriveatageneralunderstandingthatitcannotfailtohavebeenaworkofextraordinarymerit，once:

when，withsofewofitsoriginalbeautiesremaining，thegrandeurofthegeneraldesignisyetsufficienttosustainit，asapiecerepletewithinterestanddignity。

WeachievedtheothersightsofMilan，induecourse，andafinecityitis，thoughnotsounmistakablyItalianastopossessthecharacteristicqualitiesofmanytownsfarlessimportantinthemselves。TheCorso，wheretheMilanesegentryrideupanddownincarriages，andratherthannotdowhich，theywouldhalfstarvethemselvesathome，isamostnoblepublicpromenade，shadedbylongavenuesoftrees。InthesplendidtheatreofLaScala，therewasaballetofactionperformedaftertheopera，underthetitleofPrometheus:inthebeginningofwhich，somehundredortwoofmenandwomenrepresentedourmortalracebeforetherefinementsoftheartsandsciences，andlovesandgraces，cameonearthtosoftenthem。Ineversawanythingmoreeffective。Generallyspeaking，thepantomimicactionoftheItaliansismoreremarkableforitssuddenandimpetuouscharacterthanforitsdelicateexpression，but，inthiscase，thedroopingmonotony:theweary，miserable，listless，mopinglife:thesordidpassionsanddesiresofhumancreatures，destituteofthoseelevatinginfluencestowhichweowesomuch，andtowhosepromoterswerendersolittle:

wereexpressedinamannerreallypowerfulandaffecting。Ishouldhavethoughtitalmostimpossibletopresentsuchanideasostronglyonthestage，withouttheaidofspeech。

Milansoonlaybehindus，atfiveo"clockinthemorning；andbeforethegoldenstatueonthesummitofthecathedralspirewaslostinthebluesky，theAlps，stupendouslyconfusedinloftypeaksandridges，cloudsandsnow，weretoweringinourpath。

Still，wecontinuedtoadvancetowardthemuntilnightfall；and，alldaylong，themountaintopspresentedstrangelyshiftingshapes，astheroaddisplayedthemindifferentpointsofview。

Thebeautifuldaywasjustdeclining，whenwecameupontheLagoMaggiore，withitslovelyislands。ForhoweverfancifulandfantastictheIsolaBellamaybe，andis，itstillisbeautiful。

Anythingspringingoutofthatbluewater，withthatsceneryaroundit，mustbe。

Itwasteno"clockatnightwhenwegottoDomod"Ossola，atthefootofthePassoftheSimplon。Butasthemoonwasshiningbrightly，andtherewasnotacloudinthestarlitsky，itwasnotimeforgoingtobed，orgoinganywherebuton。So，wegotalittlecarriage，aftersomedelay，andbegantheascent。

ItwaslateinNovember；andthesnowlyingfourorfivefeetthickinthebeatenroadonthesummit(inotherpartsthenewdriftwasalreadydeep)，theairwaspiercingcold。But，theserenityofthenight，andthegrandeuroftheroad，withitsimpenetrableshadows，anddeepglooms，anditssuddenturnsintotheshiningofthemoonanditsincessantroaroffallingwater，renderedthejourneymoreandmoresublimeateverystep。

SoonleavingthecalmItalianvillagesbelowus，sleepinginthemoonlight，theroadbegantowindamongdarktrees，andafteratimeemergeduponabarerregion，verysteepandtoilsome，wherethemoonshonebrightandhigh。Bydegrees，theroarofwatergrewlouder；andthestupendoustrack，aftercrossingthetorrentbyabridge，struckinbetweentwomassiveperpendicularwallsofrockthatquiteshutoutthemoonlight，andonlyleftafewstarsshininginthenarrowstripofskyabove。Then，eventhiswaslost，inthethickdarknessofacavernintherock，throughwhichthewaywaspierced；theterriblecataractthunderingandroaringclosebelowit，anditsfoamandsprayhanging，inamist，abouttheentrance。Emergingfromthiscave，andcomingagainintothemoonlight，andacrossadizzybridge，itcreptandtwistedupward，throughtheGorgeofGondo，savageandgrandbeyonddescription，withsmooth-frontedprecipices，risinguponeitherhand，andalmostmeetingoverhead。Thuswewent，climbingonourruggedway，higherandhigherallnight，withoutamoment"sweariness:lostinthecontemplationoftheblackrocks，thetremendousheightsanddepths，thefieldsofsmoothsnowlying，inthecleftsandhollows，andthefiercetorrentsthunderingheadlongdownthedeepabyss。

Towardsdaybreak，wecameamongthesnow，whereakeenwindwasblowingfiercely。Having，withsometrouble，awakenedtheinmatesofawoodenhouseinthissolitude:roundwhichthewindwashowlingdismally，catchingupthesnowinwreathsandhurlingitaway:wegotsomebreakfastinaroombuiltofroughtimbers，butwellwarmedbyastove，andwellcontrived(asithadneedtobe)

forkeepingoutthebitterstorms。Asledgebeingthenmadeready，andfourhorsesharnessedtoit，wewent，ploughing，throughthesnow。Stillupward，butnowinthecoldlightofmorning，andwiththegreatwhitedesertonwhichwetravelled，plainandclear。

Wewerewelluponthesummitofthemountain:andhadbeforeustherudecrossofwood，denotingitsgreatestaltitudeabovethesea:whenthelightoftherisingsun，struck，allatonce，uponthewasteofsnow，andturneditadeepred。Thelonelygrandeurofthescenewasthenatitsheight。

Aswewentsledgingon，therecameoutoftheHospicefoundedbyNapoleon，agroupofPeasanttravellers，withstavesandknapsacks，whohadrestedtherelastnight:attendedbyaMonkortwo，theirhospitableentertainers，trudgingslowlyforwardwiththem，forcompany"ssake。Itwaspleasanttogivethemgoodmorning，andpretty，lookingbackalongwayafterthem，toseethemlookingbackatus，andhesitatingpresently，whenoneofourhorsesstumbledandfell，whetherornotheyshouldreturnandhelpus。

Buthewassoonupagain，withtheassistanceofaroughwaggonerwhoseteamhadstuckfasttheretoo；andwhenwehadhelpedhimoutofhisdifficulty，inreturn，welefthimslowlyploughingtowardsthem，andwentslowlyandswiftlyforward，onthebrinkofasteepprecipice，amongthemountainpines。

Takingtoourwheelsagain，soonafterwards，webeganrapidlytodescend；passingundereverlastingglaciers，bymeansofarchedgalleries，hungwithclustersofdrippingicicles；underandoverfoamingwaterfalls；nearplacesofrefuge，andgalleriesofshelteragainstsuddendanger；throughcavernsoverwhosearchedroofstheavalanchesslide，inspring，andburythemselvesintheunknowngulfbeneath。Down，overloftybridges，andthroughhorribleravines:alittleshiftingspeckinthevastdesolationoficeandsnow，andmonstrousgraniterocks；downthroughthedeepGorgeoftheSaltine，anddeafenedbythetorrentplungingmadlydown，amongtherivenblocksofrock，intothelevelcountry，farbelow。

Graduallydown，byzig-zagroads，lyingbetweenanupwardandadownwardprecipice，intowarmerweather，calmerair，andsofterscenery，untiltherelaybeforeus，glitteringlikegoldorsilverinthethawandsunshine，themetal-covered，red，green，yellow，domesandchurch-spiresofaSwisstown。

ThebusinessoftheserecollectionsbeingwithItaly，andmybusiness，consequently，beingtoscamperbackthitherasfastaspossible，Iwillnotrecall(thoughIamsorelytempted)howtheSwissvillages，clusteredatthefeetofGiantmountains，lookedlikeplaythings；orhowconfusedlythehouseswereheapedandpiledtogether；orhowtherewereverynarrowstreetstoshutthehowlingwindsoutinthewinter-time；andbrokenbridges，whichtheimpetuoustorrents，suddenlyreleasedinspring，hadsweptaway。

Orhowtherewerepeasantwomenhere，withgreatroundfurcaps:

looking，whentheypeepedoutofcasementsandonlytheirheadswereseen，likeapopulationofSword-bearerstotheLordMayorofLondon；orhowthetownofVevey，lyingonthesmoothlakeofGeneva，wasbeautifultosee；orhowthestatueofSaintPeterinthestreetatFribourg，graspsthelargestkeythateverwasbeheld；orhowFribourgisillustriousforitstwosuspensionbridges，anditsgrandcathedralorgan。

Orhow，betweenthattownandBale，theroadmeanderedamongthrivingvillagesofwoodencottages，withoverhangingthatchedroofs，andlowprotrudingwindows，glazedwithsmallroundpanesofglasslikecrown-pieces；orhow，ineverylittleSwisshomestead，withitscartorwaggoncarefullystowedawaybesidethehouse，itslittlegarden，stockofpoultry，andgroupsofred-cheekedchildren，therewasanairofcomfort，verynewandverypleasantafterItaly；orhowthedressesofthewomenchangedagain，andtherewerenomoresword-bearerstobeseen；andfairwhitestomachers，andgreatblack，fan-shaped，gauzy-lookingcaps，prevailedinstead。

OrhowthecountrybytheJuramountains，sprinkledwithsnow，andlightedbythemoon，andmusicalwithfallingwater，wasdelightful；orhow，belowthewindowsofthegreathoteloftheThreeKingsatBale，theswollenRhineranfastandgreen；orhow，atStrasbourg，itwasquiteasfastbutnotasgreen:andwassaidtobefoggylowerdown:and，atthatlatetimeoftheyear，wasafarlesscertainmeansofprogress，thanthehighwayroadtoParis。

OrhowStrasbourgitself，initsmagnificentoldGothicCathedral，anditsancienthouseswiththeirpeakedroofsandgables，madealittlegalleryofquaintandinterestingviews；orhowacrowdwasgatheredinsidethecathedralatnoon，toseethefamousmechanicalclockinmotion，strikingtwelve。How，whenitstrucktwelve，awholearmyofpuppetswentthroughmanyingeniousevolutions；and，amongthem，ahugepuppet-cock，perchedonthetop，crowedtwelvetimes，loudandclear。Orhowitwaswonderfultoseethiscockatgreatpainstoclapitswings，andstrainitsthroat；butobviouslyhavingnoconnectionwhateverwithitsownvoice；whichwasdeepwithintheclock，alongwaydown。

OrhowtheroadtoParis，wasoneseaofmud，andthencetothecoast，alittlebetterforahardfrost。OrhowthecliffsofDoverwereapleasantsight，andEnglandwassowonderfullyneat-

thoughdark，andlackingcolouronawinter"sday，itmustbeconceded。

Orhow，afewdaysafterwards，itwascool，re-crossingthechannel，withiceuponthedecks，andsnowlyingprettydeepinFrance。OrhowtheMallePostescrambledthroughthesnow，headlong，drawninthehillypartsbyanynumberofstouthorsesatacanter；orhowtherewere，outsidethePost-officeYardinParis，beforedaybreak，extraordinaryadventurersinheapsofrags，gropinginthesnowystreetswithlittlerakes，insearchofoddsandends。

Orhow，betweenParisandMarseilles，thesnowbeingthenexceedingdeep，athawcameon，andthemailwadedratherthanrolledforthenextthreehundredmilesorso；breakingspringsonSundaynights，andputtingoutitstwopassengerstowarmandrefreshthemselvespendingtherepairs，inmiserablebilliard-rooms，wherehairycompany，collectedaboutstoves，wereplayingcards；thecardsbeingverylikethemselves-extremelylimpanddirty。

OrhowtherewasdetentionatMarseillesfromstressofweather；

andsteamerswereadvertisedtogo，whichdidnotgo；orhowthegoodSteam-packetCharlemagneatlengthputout，andmetsuchweatherthatnowshethreatenedtorunintoToulon，andnowintoNice，but，thewindmoderating，didneither，butranonintoGenoaharbourinstead，wherethefamiliarBellsrangsweetlyinmyear。

Orhowtherewasatravellingpartyonboard，ofwhomonememberwasveryillinthecabinnexttomine，andbeingillwascross，andthereforedeclinedtogiveuptheDictionary，whichhekeptunderhispillow；therebyobliginghiscompanionstocomedowntohim，constantly，toaskwhatwastheItalianforalumpofsugar-

aglassofbrandyandwater-what"so"clock?andsoforth:whichhealwaysinsistedonlookingout，withhisownsea-sickeyes，decliningtoentrustthebooktoanymanalive。

LikeGRUMIO，Imighthavetoldyou，indetail，allthisandsomethingmore-buttoaslittlepurpose-wereInotdeterredbytheremembrancethatmybusinessiswithItaly。Therefore，likeGRUMIO"Sstory，"itshalldieinoblivion。"