第2章

Iloiteredtoandfro，underacolonnade，formingtwosidesofaweedy，grass-growncourt-yard，whereofthehouseformedathirdside，andalowterrace-walk，overlookingthegardenandtheneighbouringhills，thefourth。Idon"tbelievetherewasanuncrackedstoneinthewholepavement。Inthecentrewasamelancholystatue，sopiebaldinitsdecay，thatitlookedexactlyasifithadbeencoveredwithsticking-plaster，andafterwardspowdered。Thestables，coach-houses，offices，wereallempty，allruinous，allutterlydeserted。

Doorshadlosttheirhinges，andwereholdingonbytheirlatches；

windowswerebroken，paintedplasterhadpeeledoff，andwaslyingaboutinclods；fowlsandcatshadsotakenpossessionoftheout-

buildings，thatIcouldn"thelpthinkingofthefairytales，andeyeingthemwithsuspicion，astransformedretainers，waitingtobechangedbackagain。OneoldTominparticular:ascraggybrute，withahungrygreeneye(apoorrelation，inreality，Iaminclinedtothink):cameprowlingroundandroundme，asifhehalfbelieved，forthemoment，thatImightbetheherocometomarrythelady，andsetallto-rights；butdiscoveringhismistake，hesuddenlygaveagrimsnarl，andwalkedawaywithsuchatremendoustail，thathecouldn"tgetintothelittleholewherehelived，butwasobligedtowaitoutside，untilhisindignationandhistailhadgonedowntogether。

Inasortofsummer-house，orwhateveritmaybe，inthiscolonnade，someEnglishmenhadbeenliving，likegrubsinanut；

buttheJesuitshadgiventhemnoticetogo，andtheyhadgone，andTHATwasshutuptoo。Thehouse:awandering，echoing，thunderingbarrackofaplace，withthelowerwindowsbarredup，asusual，waswideopenatthedoor:andIhavenodoubtImighthavegonein，andgonetobed，andgonedead，andnobodyabitthewiser。Onlyonesuiteofroomsonanupperfloorwastenanted；andfromoneofthese，thevoiceofayoung-ladyvocalist，practisingbravuralustily，cameflauntingoutuponthesilentevening。

Iwentdownintothegarden，intendedtobeprimandquaint，withavenues，andterraces，andorange-trees，andstatues，andwaterinstonebasins；andeverythingwasgreen，gaunt，weedy，straggling，undergrownorovergrown，mildewy，damp，redolentofallsortsofslabby，clammy，creeping，anduncomfortablelife。Therewasnothingbrightinthewholescenebutafirefly-onesolitaryfirefly-showingagainstthedarkbusheslikethelastlittlespeckofthedepartedGloryofthehouse；andevenitwentflittingupanddownatsuddenangles，andleavingaplacewithajerk，anddescribinganirregularcircle，andreturningtothesameplacewithatwitchthatstartledone:asifitwerelookingfortherestoftheGlory，andwondering(Heavenknowsitmight！)whathadbecomeofit。

Inthecourseoftwomonths，theflittingshapesandshadowsofmydismalenteringreveriegraduallyresolvedthemselvesintofamiliarformsandsubstances；andIalreadybegantothinkthatwhenthetimeshouldcome，ayearhence，forclosingthelongholidayandturningbacktoEngland，ImightpartfromGenoawithanythingbutagladheart。

Itisaplacethat"growsuponyou"everyday。Thereseemstobealwayssomethingtofindoutinit。Therearethemostextraordinaryalleysandby-waystowalkaboutin。Youcanloseyourway(whatacomfortthatis，whenyouareidle！)twentytimesaday，ifyoulike；andturnupagain，underthemostunexpectedandsurprisingdifficulties。Itaboundsinthestrangestcontrasts；thingsthatarepicturesque，ugly，mean，magnificent，delightful，andoffensive，breakupontheviewateveryturn。

TheywhowouldknowhowbeautifulthecountryimmediatelysurroundingGenoais，shouldclimb(inclearweather)tothetopofMonteFaccio，or，atleast，rideroundthecitywalls:afeatmoreeasilyperformed。Noprospectcanbemorediversifiedandlovelythanthechangingviewsoftheharbour，andthevalleysofthetworivers，thePolceveraandtheBizagno，fromtheheightsalongwhichthestronglyfortifiedwallsarecarried，likethegreatwallofChinainlittle。Innottheleastpicturesquepartofthisride，thereisafairspecimenofarealGenoesetavern，wherethevisitormayderivegoodentertainmentfromrealGenoesedishes，suchasTagliarini；Ravioli；Germansausages，strongofgarlic，slicedandeatenwithfreshgreenfigs；cocks"combsandsheep-

kidneys，choppedupwithmuttonchopsandliver；smallpiecesofsomeunknownpartofacalf，twistedintosmallshreds，fried，andservedupinagreatdishlikewhite-bait；andothercuriositiesofthatkind。TheyoftengetwineatthesesuburbanTrattorie，fromFranceandSpainandPortugal，whichisbroughtoverbysmallcaptainsinlittletrading-vessels。Theybuyitatsomuchabottle，withoutaskingwhatitis，orcaringtorememberifanybodytellsthem，andusuallydivideitintotwoheaps；ofwhichtheylabeloneChampagne，andtheotherMadeira。Thevariousoppositeflavours，qualities，countries，ages，andvintagesthatarecomprisedunderthesetwogeneralheadsisquiteextraordinary。

ThemostlimitedrangeisprobablyfromcoolGrueluptooldMarsala，anddownagaintoappleTea。

Thegreatmajorityofthestreetsareasnarrowasanythoroughfarecanwellbe，wherepeople(evenItalianpeople)aresupposedtoliveandwalkabout；beingmerelanes，withhereandthereakindofwell，orbreathing-place。Thehousesareimmenselyhigh，paintedinallsortsofcolours，andareineverystageandstateofdamage，dirt，andlackofrepair。Theyarecommonlyletoffinfloors，orflats，likethehousesintheoldtownofEdinburgh，ormanyhousesinParis。Therearefewstreetdoors；theentrancehallsare，forthemostpart，lookeduponaspublicproperty；andanymoderatelyenterprisingscavengermightmakeafinefortunebynowandthenclearingthemout。Asitisimpossibleforcoachestopenetrateintothesestreets，therearesedanchairs，gildedandotherwise，forhireindiversplaces。Agreatmanyprivatechairsarealsokeptamongthenobilityandgentry；andatnightthesearetrottedtoandfroinalldirections，precededbybearersofgreatlanthorns，madeoflinenstretcheduponaframe。Thesedansandlanthornsarethelegitimatesuccessorsofthelongstringsofpatientandmuch-abusedmules，thatgojinglingtheirlittlebellsthroughtheseconfinedstreetsalldaylong。Theyfollowthem，asregularlyasthestarsthesun。

WhenshallIforgettheStreetsofPalaces:theStradaNuovaandtheStradaBalbi！orhowtheformerlookedonesummerday，whenI

firstsawitunderneaththebrightestandmostintenselyblueofsummerskies:whichitsnarrowperspectiveofimmensemansions，reducedtoataperingandmostpreciousstripofbrightness，lookingdownupontheheavyshadebelow！Abrightnessnottoocommon，eveninJulyandAugust，tobewellesteemed:for，iftheTruthmustout，therewerenoteightblueskiesinasmanymidsummerweeks，saving，sometimes，earlyinthemorning；when，lookingouttosea，thewaterandthefirmamentwereoneworldofdeepandbrilliantblue。Atothertimes，therewerecloudsandhazeenoughtomakeanEnglishmangrumbleinhisownclimate。

TheendlessdetailsoftheserichPalaces:thewallsofsomeofthem，within，alivewithmasterpiecesbyVandyke！Thegreat，heavy，stonebalconies，oneaboveanother，andtierovertier:

withhereandthere，onelargerthantherest，toweringhighup-ahugemarbleplatform；thedoorlessvestibules，massivelybarredlowerwindows，immensepublicstaircases，thickmarblepillars，strongdungeon-likearches，anddreary，dreaming，echoingvaultedchambers:amongwhichtheeyewandersagain，andagain，andagain，aseverypalaceissucceededbyanother-theterracegardensbetweenhouseandhouse，withgreenarchesofthevine，andgrovesoforange-trees，andblushingoleanderinfullbloom，twenty，thirty，fortyfeetabovethestreet-thepaintedhalls，mouldering，andblotting，androttinginthedampcorners，andstillshiningoutinbeautifulcoloursandvoluptuousdesigns，wherethewallsaredry-thefadedfiguresontheoutsidesofthehouses，holdingwreaths，andcrowns，andflyingupward，anddownward，andstandinginniches，andhereandtherelookingfainterandmorefeeblethanelsewhere，bycontrastwithsomefreshlittleCupids，whoonamorerecentlydecoratedportionofthefront，arestretchingoutwhatseemstobethesemblanceofablanket，butis，indeed，asun-dial-thesteep，steep，up-hillstreetsofsmallpalaces(butverylargepalacesforallthat)，withmarbleterraceslookingdownintocloseby-ways-themagnificentandinnumerableChurches；andtherapidpassagefromastreetofstatelyedifices，intoamazeofthevilestsqualor，steamingwithunwholesomestenches，andswarmingwithhalf-nakedchildrenandwholeworldsofdirtypeople-makeup，altogether，suchasceneofwonder:solively，andyetsodead:sonoisy，andyetsoquiet:soobtrusive，andyetsoshyandlowering:sowideawake，andyetsofastasleep:thatitisasortofintoxicationtoastrangertowalkon，andon，andon，andlookabouthim。A

bewilderingphantasmagoria，withalltheinconsistencyofadream，andallthepainandallthepleasureofanextravagantreality！

ThedifferentusestowhichsomeofthesePalacesareapplied，allatonce，ischaracteristic。Forinstance，theEnglishBanker(myexcellentandhospitablefriend)hashisofficeinagood-sizedPalazzointheStradaNuova。Inthehall(everyinchofwhichiselaboratelypainted，butwhichisasdirtyasapolice-stationinLondon)，ahook-nosedSaracen"sHeadwithanimmensequantityofblackhair(thereisamanattachedtoit)sellswalking-sticks。

Ontheothersideofthedoorway，aladywithashowyhandkerchiefforhead-dress(wifetotheSaracen"sHead，Ibelieve)sellsarticlesofherownknitting；andsometimesflowers。Alittlefurtherin，twoorthreeblindmenoccasionallybeg。Sometimes，theyarevisitedbyamanwithoutlegs，onalittlego-cart，butwhohassuchafresh-coloured，livelyface，andsucharespectable，well-conditionedbody，thathelooksasifhehadsunkintothegrounduptohismiddle，orhadcome，butpartially，upaflightofcellar-stepstospeaktosomebody。Alittlefurtherin，afewmen，perhaps，lieasleepinthemiddleoftheday；ortheymaybechairmenwaitingfortheirabsentfreight。Ifso，theyhavebroughttheirchairsinwiththem，andthereTHEYstandalso。Ontheleftofthehallisalittleroom:ahatter"sshop。Onthefirstfloor，istheEnglishbank。Onthefirstflooralso，isawholehouse，andagoodlargeresidencetoo。Heavenknowswhattheremaybeabovethat；butwhenyouarethere，youhaveonlyjustbeguntogoup-stairs。Andyet，comingdown-stairsagain，thinkingofthis；andpassingoutatagreatcrazydoorinthebackofthehall，insteadofturningtheotherway，togetintothestreetagain；itbangsbehindyou，makingthedismallestandmostlonesomeechoes，andyoustandinayard(theyardofthesamehouse)whichseemstohavebeenunvisitedbyhumanfoot，forahundredyears。

Notasounddisturbsitsrepose。Notahead，thrustoutofanyofthegrim，dark，jealouswindows，withinsight，makestheweedsinthecrackedpavementfaintofheart，bysuggestingthepossibilityoftherebeinghandstogrubthemup。Oppositetoyou，isagiantfigurecarvedinstone，reclining，withanurn，uponaloftypieceofartificialrockwork；andoutoftheurn，danglesthefagendofaleadenpipe，which，onceuponatime，pouredasmalltorrentdowntherocks。Buttheeye-socketsofthegiantarenotdrierthanthischannelisnow。Heseemstohavegivenhisurn，whichisnearlyupsidedown，afinaltilt；andaftercrying，likeasepulchralchild，"Allgone！"tohavelapsedintoastonysilence。

Inthestreetsofshops，thehousesaremuchsmaller，butofgreatsizenotwithstanding，andextremelyhigh。Theyareverydirty:

quiteundrained，ifmynosebeatallreliable:andemitapeculiarfragrance，likethesmellofverybadcheese，keptinveryhotblankets。Notwithstandingtheheightofthehouses，therewouldseemtohavebeenalackofroomintheCity，fornewhousesarethrustineverywhere。Whereverithasbeenpossibletocramatumble-downtenementintoacrackorcorner，inithasgone。Iftherebeanookorangleinthewallofachurch，oracreviceinanyotherdeadwall，ofanysort，thereyouaresuretofindsomekindofhabitation:lookingasifithadgrownthere，likeafungus。AgainsttheGovernmentHouse，againsttheoldSenateHouse，roundaboutanylargebuilding，littleshopssticksoclose，likeparasitevermintothegreatcarcase。Andforallthis，lookwhereyoumay:upsteps，downsteps，anywhere，everywhere:thereareirregularhouses，receding，startingforward，tumblingdown，leaningagainsttheirneighbours，cripplingthemselvesortheirfriendsbysomemeansorother，untilone，moreirregularthantherest，chokesuptheway，andyoucan"tseeanyfurther。

Oneoftherottenest-lookingpartsofthetown，Ithink，isdownbythelanding-wharf:thoughitmaybe，thatitsbeingassociatedwithagreatdealofrottennessontheeveningofourarrival，hasstampeditdeeperinmymind。Here，again，thehousesareveryhigh，andareofaninfinitevarietyofdeformedshapes，andhave(asmostofthehouseshave)somethinghangingoutofagreatmanywindows，andwaftingitsfrowsyfragranceonthebreeze。

Sometimes，itisacurtain；sometimes，itisacarpet；sometimes，itisabed；sometimes，awholeline-fullofclothes；butthereisalmostalwayssomething。Beforethebasementofthesehouses，isanarcadeoverthepavement:verymassive，dark，andlow，likeanoldcrypt。Thestone，orplaster，ofwhichitismade，hasturnedquiteblack；andagainsteveryoneoftheseblackpiles，allsortsoffilthandgarbageseemtoaccumulatespontaneously。Beneathsomeofthearches，thesellersofmacaroniandpolentaestablishtheirstalls，whicharebynomeansinviting。Theoffalofafish-

market，nearathand-thatistosay，ofabacklane，wherepeoplesituponthegroundandonvariousoldbulk-headsandsheds，andsellfishwhentheyhaveanytodisposeof-andofavegetablemarket，constructedonthesameprinciple-arecontributedtothedecorationofthisquarter；andasallthemercantilebusinessistransactedhere，anditiscrowdedallday，ithasaverydecidedflavouraboutit。ThePortoFranco，orFreePort(wheregoodsbroughtinfromforeigncountriespaynodutyuntiltheyaresoldandtakenout，asinabondedwarehouseinEngland)，isdownherealso；andtwoportentousofficials，incockedhats，standatthegatetosearchyouiftheychoose，andtokeepoutMonksandLadies。For，SanctityaswellasBeautyhasbeenknowntoyieldtothetemptationofsmuggling，andinthesameway:thatistosay，byconcealingthesmuggledpropertybeneaththeloosefoldsofitsdress。SoSanctityandBeautymay，bynomeans，enter。

ThestreetsofGenoawouldbeallthebetterfortheimportationofafewPriestsofprepossessingappearance。EveryfourthorfifthmaninthestreetsisaPriestoraMonk；andthereisprettysuretobeatleastoneitinerantecclesiasticinsideoroutsideeveryhackneycarriageontheneighbouringroads。Ihavenoknowledge，elsewhere，ofmorerepulsivecountenancesthanaretobefoundamongthesegentry。IfNature"shandwritingbeatalllegible，greatervarietiesofsloth，deceit，andintellectualtorpor，couldhardlybeobservedamonganyclassofmenintheworld。

MR。PEPYSonceheardaclergymanassertinhissermon，inillustrationofhisrespectforthePriestlyoffice，thatifhecouldmeetaPriestandangeltogether，hewouldsalutethePriestfirst。IamratheroftheopinionofPETRARCH，who，whenhispupilBOCCACCIOwrotetohimingreattribulation，thathehadbeenvisitedandadmonishedforhiswritingsbyaCarthusianFriarwhoclaimedtobeamessengerimmediatelycommissionedbyHeavenforthatpurpose，replied，thatforhisownpart，hewouldtakethelibertyoftestingtherealityofthecommissionbypersonalobservationoftheMessenger"sface，eyes，forehead，behaviour，anddiscourse。Icannotbutbelievemyself，fromsimilarobservation，thatmanyunaccreditedcelestialmessengersmaybeseenskulkingthroughthestreetsofGenoa，ordroningawaytheirlivesinotherItaliantowns。

PerhapstheCappuccini，thoughnotalearnedbody，are，asanorder，thebestfriendsofthepeople。Theyseemtominglewiththemmoreimmediately，astheircounsellorsandcomforters；andtogoamongthemmore，whentheyaresick；andtoprylessthansomeotherorders，intothesecretsoffamilies，forthepurposeofestablishingabalefulascendencyovertheirweakermembers；andtobeinfluencedbyalessfiercedesiretomakeconverts，andoncemade，toletthemgotoruin，soulandbody。Theymaybeseen，intheircoarsedress，inallpartsofthetownatalltimes，andbegginginthemarketsearlyinthemorning。TheJesuitstoo，musterstronginthestreets，andgoslinkingnoiselesslyabout，inpairs，likeblackcats。

Insomeofthenarrowpassages，distincttradescongregate。Thereisastreetofjewellers，andthereisarowofbooksellers；butevendowninplaceswherenobodyevercan，orevercould，penetrateinacarriage，therearemightyoldpalacesshutinamongthegloomiestandclosestwalls，andalmostshutoutfromthesun。

Veryfewofthetradesmenhaveanyideaofsettingforththeirgoods，ordisposingthemforshow。Ifyou，astranger，wanttobuyanything，youusuallylookroundtheshoptillyouseeit；thenclutchit，ifitbewithinreach，andinquirehowmuch。Everythingissoldatthemostunlikelyplace。Ifyouwantcoffee，yougotoasweetmeatshop；andifyouwantmeat，youwillprobablyfinditbehindanoldcheckedcurtain，downhalf-a-dozensteps，insomesequesterednookashardtofindasifthecommoditywerepoison，andGenoa"slawweredeathtoanythatutteredit。

Mostoftheapothecaries"shopsaregreatlounging-places。Here，gravemenwithsticks，sitdownintheshadeforhourstogether，passingameagreGenoapaperfromhandtohand，andtalking，drowsilyandsparingly，abouttheNews。Twoorthreeofthesearepoorphysicians，readytoproclaimthemselvesonanemergency，andtearoffwithanymessengerwhomayarrive。Youmayknowthembythewayinwhichtheystretchtheirneckstolisten，whenyouenter；andbythesighwithwhichtheyfallbackagainintotheirdullcorners，onfindingthatyouonlywantmedicine。Fewpeopleloungeinthebarbers"shops；thoughtheyareverynumerous，ashardlyanymanshaveshimself。Buttheapothecary"shasitsgroupofloungers，whositbackamongthebottles，withtheirhandsfoldedoverthetopsoftheirsticks。Sostillandquiet，thateitheryoudon"tseetheminthedarkenedshop，ormistakethem-

asIdidoneghostlymaninbottle-green，oneday，withahatlikeastopper-forHorseMedicine。

OnasummereveningtheGenoeseareasfondofputtingthemselves，astheirancestorswereofputtinghouses，ineveryavailableinchofspaceinandaboutthetown。Inallthelanesandalleys，andupeverylittleascent，andoneverydwarfwall，andoneveryflightofsteps，theyclusterlikebees。Meanwhile(andespeciallyonfesta-days)thebellsofthechurchesringincessantly；notinpeals，oranyknownformofsound，butinahorrible，irregular，jerking，dingle，dingle，dingle:withasuddenstopateveryfifteenthdingleorso，whichismaddening。Thisperformanceisusuallyachievedbyaboyupinthesteeple，whotakesholdoftheclapper，oralittleropeattachedtoit，andtriestodinglelouderthaneveryotherboysimilarlyemployed。ThenoiseissupposedtobeparticularlyobnoxioustoEvilSpirits；butlookingupintothesteeples，andseeing(andhearing)theseyoungChristiansthusengaged，onemightverynaturallymistakethemfortheEnemy。

Festa-days，earlyintheautumn，areverynumerous。Alltheshopswereshutup，twicewithinaweek，fortheseholidays；andonenight，allthehousesintheneighbourhoodofaparticularchurchwereilluminated，whilethechurchitselfwaslighted，outside，withtorches；andagroveofblazinglinkswaserected，inanopenspaceoutsideoneofthecitygates。Thispartoftheceremonyisprettierandmoresingularalittlewayinthecountry，whereyoucantracetheilluminatedcottagesallthewayupasteephill-

side；andwhereyoupassfestoonsoftapers，wastingawayinthestarlightnight，beforesomelonelylittlehouseupontheroad。

Onthesedays，theyalwaysdressthechurchofthesaintinwhosehonourthefestaisholden，verygaily。Gold-embroideredfestoonsofdifferentcolours，hangfromthearches；thealtarfurnitureissetforth；andsometimes，eventheloftypillarsareswathedfromtoptobottomintight-fittingdraperies。ThecathedralisdedicatedtoSt。Lorenzo。OnSt。Lorenzo"sday，wewentintoit，justasthesunwassetting。Althoughthesedecorationsareusuallyinveryindifferenttaste，theeffect，justthen，wasverysuperbindeed。Forthewholebuildingwasdressedinred；andthesinkingsun，streamingin，throughagreatredcurtaininthechiefdoorway，madeallthegorgeousnessitsown。Whenthesunwentdown，anditgraduallygrewquitedarkinside，exceptforafewtwinklingtapersontheprincipalaltar，andsomesmalldanglingsilverlamps，itwasverymysteriousandeffective。But，sittinginanyofthechurchestowardsevening，islikeamilddoseofopium。

Withthemoneycollectedatafesta，theyusuallypayforthedressingofthechurch，andforthehiringoftheband，andforthetapers。Iftherebeanyleft(whichseldomhappens，Ibelieve)，thesoulsinPurgatorygetthebenefitofit。Theyarealsosupposedtohavethebenefitoftheexertionsofcertainsmallboys，whoshakemoney-boxesbeforesomemysteriouslittlebuildingslikeruralturnpikes，which(usuallyshutupclose)flyopenonRed-letterdays，anddiscloseanimageandsomeflowersinside。

Justwithoutthecitygate，ontheAlbararoad，isasmallhouse，withanaltarinit，andastationarymoney-box:alsoforthebenefitofthesoulsinPurgatory。Stillfurthertostimulatethecharitable，thereisamonstrouspaintingontheplaster，oneithersideofthegrateddoor，representingaselectpartyofsouls，frying。Oneofthemhasagreymoustache，andanelaborateheadofgreyhair:asifhehadbeentakenoutofahairdresser"swindowandcastintothefurnace。Thereheis:amostgrotesqueandhideouslycomicoldsoul:foreverblisteringintherealsun，andmeltinginthemimicfire，forthegratificationandimprovement(andthecontributions)ofthepoorGenoese。

Theyarenotaveryjoyouspeople，andareseldomseentodanceontheirholidays:thestapleplacesofentertainmentamongthewomen，beingthechurchesandthepublicwalks。Theyareverygood-tempered，obliging，andindustrious。Industryhasnotmadethemclean，fortheirhabitationsareextremelyfilthy，andtheirusualoccupationonafineSundaymorning，istositattheirdoors，huntingineachother"sheads。ButtheirdwellingsaresocloseandconfinedthatifthosepartsofthecityhadbeenbeatendownbyMassenainthetimeoftheterribleBlockade，itwouldhaveatleastoccasionedonepublicbenefitamongmanymisfortunes。

ThePeasantWomen，withnakedfeetandlegs，aresoconstantlywashingclothes，inthepublictanks，andineverystreamandditch，thatonecannothelpwondering，inthemidstofallthisdirt，whowearsthemwhentheyareclean。Thecustomistolaythewetlinenwhichisbeingoperatedupon，onasmoothstone，andhammerawayatit，withaflatwoodenmallet。Thistheydo，asfuriouslyasiftheywererevengingthemselvesondressingeneralforbeingconnectedwiththeFallofMankind。

Itisnotunusualtosee，lyingontheedgeofthetankatthesetimes，oronanotherflatstone，anunfortunatebaby，tightlyswathedup，armsandlegsandall，inanenormousquantityofwrapper，sothatitisunabletomoveatoeorfinger。Thiscustom(whichweoftenseerepresentedinoldpictures)isuniversalamongthecommonpeople。Achildisleftanywherewithoutthepossibilityofcrawlingaway，orisaccidentallyknockedoffashelf，ortumbledoutofbed，orishunguptoahooknowandthen，andleftdanglinglikeadollatanEnglishrag-shop，withouttheleastinconveniencetoanybody。

Iwassitting，oneSunday，soonaftermyarrival，inthelittlecountrychurchofSanMartino，acoupleofmilesfromthecity，whileabaptismtookplace。Isawthepriest，andanattendantwithalargetaper，andaman，andawoman，andsomeothers；butI

hadnomoreidea，untiltheceremonywasallover，thatitwasabaptism，orthatthecuriouslittlestiffinstrument，thatwaspassedfromonetoanother，inthecourseoftheceremony，bythehandle-likeashortpoker-wasachild，thanIhadthatitwasmyownchristening。Iborrowedthechildafterwards，foraminuteortwo(itwaslyingacrossthefontthen)，andfounditveryredinthefacebutperfectlyquiet，andnottobebentonanyterms。

Thenumberofcripplesinthestreets，soonceasedtosurpriseme。

ThereareplentyofSaints"andVirgin"sShrines，ofcourse；

generallyatthecornersofstreets。ThefavouritemementototheFaithful，aboutGenoa，isapainting，representingapeasantonhisknees，withaspadeandsomeotheragriculturalimplementsbesidehim；andtheMadonna，withtheInfantSaviourinherarms，appearingtohiminacloud。ThisisthelegendoftheMadonnadellaGuardia:achapelonamountainwithinafewmiles，whichisinhighrepute。Itseemsthatthispeasantlivedallalonebyhimself，tillingsomelandatopofthemountain，where，beingadevoutman，hedailysaidhisprayerstotheVirginintheopenair；forhishutwasaverypoorone。Uponacertainday，theVirginappearedtohim，asinthepicture，andsaid，"Whydoyouprayintheopenair，andwithoutapriest?"Thepeasantexplainedbecausetherewasneitherpriestnorchurchathand-averyuncommoncomplaintindeedinItaly。"Ishouldwish，then，"saidtheCelestialVisitor，"tohaveachapelbuilthere，inwhichtheprayersoftheFaithfulmaybeofferedup。""But，SantissimaMadonna，"saidthepeasant，"Iamapoorman；andchapelscannotbebuiltwithoutmoney。Theymustbesupported，too，Santissima；fortohaveachapelandnotsupportitliberally，isawickedness-adeadlysin。"Thissentimentgavegreatsatisfactiontothevisitor。"Go！"saidshe。"Thereissuchavillageinthevalleyontheleft，andsuchanothervillageinthevalleyontheright，andsuchanothervillageelsewhere，thatwillgladlycontributetothebuildingofachapel。Gotothem！Relatewhatyouhaveseen；

anddonotdoubtthatsufficientmoneywillbeforthcomingtoerectmychapel，orthatitwill，afterwards，behandsomelymaintained。"

Allofwhich(miraculously)turnedouttobequitetrue。Andinproofofthispredictionandrevelation，thereisthechapeloftheMadonnadellaGuardia，richandflourishingatthisday。

ThesplendourandvarietyoftheGenoesechurches，canhardlybeexaggerated。ThechurchoftheAnnunciataespecially:built，likemanyoftheothers，atthecostofonenoblefamily，andnowinslowprogressofrepair:fromtheouterdoortotheutmostheightofthehighcupola，issoelaboratelypaintedandsetingold，thatitlooks(asSIMONDdescribesit，inhischarmingbookonItaly)

likeagreatenamelledsnuff-box。Mostofthericherchurchescontainsomebeautifulpictures，orotherembellishmentsofgreatprice，almostuniversallyset，sidebyside，withsprawlingeffigiesofmaudlinmonks，andtheveriesttrashandtinseleverseen。

Itmaybeaconsequenceofthefrequentdirectionofthepopularmind，andpocket，tothesoulsinPurgatory，butthereisverylittletendernessfortheBODIESofthedeadhere。Fortheverypoor，thereare，immediatelyoutsideoneangleofthewalls，andbehindajuttingpointofthefortification，nearthesea，certaincommonpits-oneforeverydayintheyear-whichallremainclosedup，untiltheturnofeachcomesforitsdailyreceptionofdeadbodies。Amongthetroopsinthetown，thereareusuallysomeSwiss:moreorless。Whenanyofthesedie，theyareburiedoutofafundmaintainedbysuchoftheircountrymenasareresidentinGenoa。Theirprovidingcoffinsforthesemenismatterofgreatastonishmenttotheauthorities。

Certainly，theeffectofthispromiscuousandindecentsplashingdownofdeadpeopleinsomanywells，isbad。ItsurroundsDeathwithrevoltingassociations，thatinsensiblybecomeconnectedwiththosewhomDeathisapproaching。Indifferenceandavoidancearethenaturalresult；andallthesofteninginfluencesofthegreatsorrowareharshlydisturbed。

ThereisaceremonywhenanoldCavaliereorthelike，expires，oferectingapileofbenchesinthecathedral，torepresenthisbier；

coveringthemoverwithapallofblackvelvet；puttinghishatandswordonthetop；makingalittlesquareofseatsaboutthewhole；

andsendingoutformalinvitationstohisfriendsandacquaintancestocomeandsitthere，andhearMass:whichisperformedattheprincipalAltar，decoratedwithaninfinityofcandlesforthatpurpose。

Whenthebetterkindofpeopledie，orareatthepointofdeath，theirnearestrelationsgenerallywalkoff:retiringintothecountryforalittlechange，andleavingthebodytobedisposedof，withoutanysuperintendencefromthem。Theprocessionisusuallyformed，andthecoffinborne，andthefuneralconducted，byabodyofpersonscalledaConfraternita，who，asakindofvoluntarypenance，undertaketoperformtheseoffices，inregularrotation，forthedead；butwho，minglingsomethingofpridewiththeirhumility，aredressedinaloosegarmentcoveringtheirwholeperson，andwearahoodconcealingtheface；withbreathing-holesandaperturesfortheeyes。Theeffectofthiscostumeisveryghastly:especiallyinthecaseofacertainBlueConfraternitabelongingtoGenoa，who，tosaytheleastofthem，areveryuglycustomers，andwholook-suddenlyencounteredintheirpiousministrationinthestreets-asiftheywereGhoulesorDemons，bearingoffthebodyforthemselves。

AlthoughsuchacustommaybeliabletotheabuseattendantonmanyItaliancustoms，ofbeingrecognisedasameansofestablishingacurrentaccountwithHeaven，onwhichtodraw，tooeasily，forfuturebadactions，orasanexpiationforpastmisdeeds，itmustbeadmittedtobeagoodone，andapracticalone，andoneinvolvingunquestionablygoodworks。Avoluntaryservicelikethis，issurelybetterthantheimposedpenance(notatallaninfrequentone)ofgivingsomanylickstosuchandsuchastoneinthepavementofthecathedral；orthanavowtotheMadonnatowearnothingbutblueforayearortwo。Thisissupposedtogivegreatdelightabove；bluebeing(asiswellknown)theMadonna"sfavouritecolour。WomenwhohavedevotedthemselvestothisactofFaith，areverycommonlyseenwalkinginthestreets。

Therearethreetheatresinthecity，besidesanoldonenowrarelyopened。Themostimportant-theCarloFelice:theopera-houseofGenoa-isaverysplendid，commodious，andbeautifultheatre。A

companyofcomedianswereactingthere，whenwearrived:andsoonaftertheirdeparture，asecond-rateoperacompanycame。Thegreatseasonisnotuntilthecarnivaltime-inthespring。Nothingimpressedme，somuch，inmyvisitshere(whichwereprettynumerous)astheuncommonlyhardandcruelcharacteroftheaudience，whoresenttheslightestdefect，takenothinggood-

humouredly，seemtobealwayslyinginwaitforanopportunitytohiss，andsparetheactressesaslittleastheactors。

But，asthereisnothingelseofapublicnatureatwhichtheyareallowedtoexpresstheleastdisapprobation，perhapstheyareresolvedtomakethemostofthisopportunity。

ThereareagreatnumberofPiedmonteseofficerstoo，whoareallowedtheprivilegeofkickingtheirheelsinthepit，fornexttonothing:gratuitous，orcheapaccommodationforthesegentlemenbeinginsistedon，bytheGovernor，inallpublicorsemi-publicentertainments。Theyareloftycriticsinconsequence，andinfinitelymoreexactingthaniftheymadetheunhappymanager"sfortune。

TheTEATRODIURNO，orDayTheatre，isacoveredstageintheopenair，wheretheperformancestakeplacebydaylight，inthecooloftheafternoon；commencingatfourorfiveo"clock，andlasting，somethreehours。Itiscurious，sittingamongtheaudience，tohaveafineviewoftheneighbouringhillsandhouses，andtoseetheneighboursattheirwindowslookingon，andtohearthebellsofthechurchesandconventsringingatmostcompletecross-

purposeswiththescene。Beyondthis，andthenoveltyofseeingaplayinthefreshpleasantair，withthedarkeningeveningclosingin，thereisnothingveryexcitingorcharacteristicintheperformances。Theactorsareindifferent；andthoughtheysometimesrepresentoneofGoldoni"scomedies，thestapleoftheDramaisFrench。Anythinglikenationalityisdangeroustodespoticgovernments，andJesuit-beleagueredkings。

TheTheatreofPuppets，orMarionetti-afamouscompanyfromMilan-is，withoutanyexception，thedrollestexhibitionIeverbeheldinmylife。Ineversawanythingsoexquisitelyridiculous。TheyLOOKbetweenfourandfivefeethigh，butarereallymuchsmaller；

forwhenamusicianintheorchestrahappenstoputhishatonthestage，itbecomesalarminglygigantic，andalmostblotsoutanactor。Theyusuallyplayacomedy，andaballet。ThecomicmaninthecomedyIsawonesummernight，isawaiterinanhotel。Thereneverwassuchalocomotiveactor，sincetheworldbegan。Greatpainsaretakenwithhim。Hehasextrajointsinhislegs:andapracticaleye，withwhichhewinksatthepit，inamannerthatisabsolutelyinsupportabletoastranger，butwhichtheinitiatedaudience，mainlycomposedofthecommonpeople，receive(sotheydoeverythingelse)quiteasamatterofcourse，andasifhewereaman。Hisspiritsareprodigious。Hecontinuallyshakeshislegs，andwinkshiseye。Andthereisaheavyfatherwithgreyhair，whositsdownontheregularconventionalstage-bank，andblesseshisdaughterintheregularconventionalway，whoistremendous。Noonewouldsupposeitpossiblethatanythingshortofarealmancouldbesotedious。Itisthetriumphofart。

Intheballet，anEnchanterrunsawaywiththeBride，intheveryhourofhernuptials，Hebringshertohiscave，andtriestosootheher。Theysitdownonasofa(theregularsofa！intheregularplace，O。P。SecondEntrance！)andaprocessionofmusiciansenters；onecreatureplayingadrum，andknockinghimselfoffhislegsateveryblow。Thesefailingtodelighther，dancersappear。Fourfirst；thentwo；THEtwo；theflesh-colouredtwo。

Thewayinwhichtheydance；theheighttowhichtheyspring；theimpossibleandinhumanextenttowhichtheypirouette；therevelationoftheirpreposterouslegs；thecomingdownwithapause，ontheverytipsoftheirtoes，whenthemusicrequiresit；

thegentleman"sretiringup，whenitisthelady"sturn；andthelady"sretiringup，whenitisthegentleman"sturn；thefinalpassionofapas-de-deux；andthegoingoffwithabound！-Ishallneverseearealballet，withacomposedcountenanceagain。

Iwent，anothernight，toseethesePuppetsactaplaycalled"St。

Helena，ortheDeathofNapoleon。"ItbeganbythedisclosureofNapoleon，withanimmensehead，seatedonasofainhischamberatSt。Helena；towhomhisvaletenteredwiththisobscureannouncement:

"SirYewudseonLow?"(theOW，asincow)。

SirHudson(thatyoucouldhaveseenhisregimentals！)wasaperfectmammothofaman，toNapoleon；hideouslyugly，withamonstrouslydisproportionateface，andagreatclumpforthelower-

jaw，toexpresshistyrannicalandobduratenature。Hebeganhissystemofpersecution，bycallinghisprisoner"GeneralBuonaparte；"towhichthelatterreplied，withthedeepesttragedy，"SirYewudseonLow，callmenotthus。Repeatthatphraseandleaveme！IamNapoleon，EmperorofFrance！"SirYewudseon，nothingdaunted，proceededtoentertainhimwithanordinanceoftheBritishGovernment，regulatingthestateheshouldpreserve，andthefurnitureofhisrooms:andlimitinghisattendantstofourorfivepersons。"FourorfiveforME！"saidNapoleon。"Me！

Onehundredthousandmenwerelatelyatmysolecommand；andthisEnglishofficertalksoffourorfiveforME！"Throughoutthepiece，Napoleon(whotalkedveryliketherealNapoleon，andwas，forever，havingsmallsoliloquiesbyhimself)wasverybitteron"theseEnglishofficers，"and"theseEnglishsoldiers；"tothegreatsatisfactionoftheaudience，whowereperfectlydelightedtohaveLowbullied；andwho，wheneverLowsaid"GeneralBuonaparte"

(whichhealwaysdid:alwaysreceivingthesamecorrection)，quiteexecratedhim。Itwouldbehardtosaywhy；forItalianshavelittlecausetosympathisewithNapoleon，Heavenknows。

Therewasnoplotatall，exceptthataFrenchofficer，disguisedasanEnglishman，cametopropoundaplanofescape；andbeingdiscovered，butnotbeforeNapoleonhadmagnanimouslyrefusedtostealhisfreedom，wasimmediatelyorderedoffbyLowtobehanged。

Intwoverylongspeeches，whichLowmadememorable，bywindingupwith"Yas！"-toshowthathewasEnglish-whichbroughtdownthundersofapplause。Napoleonwassoaffectedbythiscatastrophe，thathefaintedawayonthespot，andwascarriedoutbytwootherpuppets。Judgingfromwhatfollowed，itwouldappearthatheneverrecoveredtheshock；forthenextactshowedhim，inacleanshirt，inhisbed(curtainscrimsonandwhite)，wherealady，prematurelydressedinmourning，broughttwolittlechildren，whokneeleddownbythebedside，whilehemadeadecentend；thelastwordonhislipsbeing"Vatterlo。"

Itwasunspeakablyludicrous。Buonaparte"sbootsweresowonderfullybeyondcontrol，anddidsuchmarvellousthingsoftheirownaccord:doublingthemselvesup，andgettingundertables，anddanglingintheair，andsometimesskatingawaywithhim，outofallhumanknowledge，whenhewasinfullspeech-mischanceswhichwerenotrenderedthelessabsurd，byasettledmelancholydepictedinhisface。ToputanendtooneconferencewithLow，hehadtogotoatable，andreadabook:whenitwasthefinestspectacleI

everbeheld，toseehisbodybendingoverthevolume，likeaboot-

jack，andhissentimentaleyesglaringobstinatelyintothepit。

Hewasprodigiouslygood，inbed，withanimmensecollartohisshirt，andhislittlehandsoutsidethecoverlet。SowasDr。

Antommarchi，representedbyapuppetwithlonglankhair，likeMawworm"s，who，inconsequenceofsomederangementofhiswires，hoveredaboutthecouchlikeavulture，andgavemedicalopinionsintheair。HewasalmostasgoodasLow，thoughthelatterwasgreatatalltimes-adecidedbruteandvillain，beyondallpossibilityofmistake。Lowwasespeciallyfineatthelast，when，hearingthedoctorandthevaletsay，"TheEmperorisdead！"hepulledouthiswatch，andwoundupthepiece(notthewatch)byexclaiming，withcharacteristicbrutality，"Ha！ha！Elevenminutestosix！TheGeneraldead！andthespyhanged！"Thisbroughtthecurtaindown，triumphantly。

ThereisnotinItaly，theysay(andIbelievethem)，alovelierresidencethanthePalazzoPeschiere，orPalaceoftheFishponds，whitherweremovedassoonasourthreemonths"tenancyofthePinkJailatAlbarohadceasedanddetermined。

ItstandsonaheightwithinthewallsofGenoa，butalooffromthetown:surroundedbybeautifulgardensofitsown，adornedwithstatues，vases，fountains，marblebasins，terraces，walksoforange-treesandlemon-trees，grovesofrosesandcamellias。Allitsapartmentsarebeautifulintheirproportionsanddecorations；

butthegreathall，somefiftyfeetinheight，withthreelargewindowsattheend，overlookingthewholetownofGenoa，theharbour，andtheneighbouringsea，affordsoneofthemostfascinatinganddelightfulprospectsintheworld。Anyhousemorecheerfulandhabitablethanthegreatroomsare，within，itwouldbedifficulttoconceive；andcertainlynothingmoredeliciousthanthescenewithout，insunshineorinmoonlight，couldbeimagined。

ItismorelikeanenchantedplaceinanEasternstorythanagraveandsoberlodging。

Howyoumaywanderon，fromroomtoroom，andnevertireofthewildfanciesonthewallsandceilings，asbrightintheirfreshcolouringasiftheyhadbeenpaintedyesterday；orhowonefloor，oreventhegreathallwhichopensoneightotherrooms，isaspaciouspromenade；orhowtherearecorridorsandbed-chambersabove，whichweneveruseandrarelyvisit，andscarcelyknowthewaythrough；orhowthereisaviewofaperfectlydifferentcharacteroneachofthefoursidesofthebuilding；matterslittle。Butthatprospectfromthehallislikeavisiontome。I

gobacktoit，infancy，asIhavedoneincalmrealityahundredtimesaday；andstandthere，lookingout，withthesweetscentsfromthegardenrisingupaboutme，inaperfectdreamofhappiness。

ThereliesallGenoa，inbeautifulconfusion，withitsmanychurches，monasteries，andconvents，pointingupintothesunnysky；anddownbelowme，justwheretheroofsbegin，asolitaryconventparapet，fashionedlikeagallery，withanironacrossattheend，wheresometimesearlyinthemorning，Ihaveseenalittlegroupofdark-veilednunsglidingsorrowfullytoandfro，andstoppingnowandthentopeepdownuponthewakingworldinwhichtheyhavenopart。OldMonteFaccio，brightestofhillsingoodweather，butsulkiestwhenstormsarecomingon，ishere，upontheleft。TheFortwithinthewalls(thegoodKingbuiltittocommandthetown，andbeatthehousesoftheGenoeseabouttheirears，incasetheyshouldbediscontented)commandsthatheightupontheright。Thebroadsealiesbeyond，infrontthere；andthatlineofcoast，beginningbythelight-house，andtaperingaway，amerespeckintherosydistance，isthebeautifulcoastroadthatleadstoNice。Thegardennearathand，amongtheroofsandhouses:allredwithrosesandfreshwithlittlefountains:istheAcquaSola-apublicpromenade，wherethemilitarybandplaysgaily，andthewhiteveilsclusterthick，andtheGenoesenobilityrideround，andround，andround，instate-clothesandcoachesatleast，ifnotinabsolutewisdom。Withinastone"s-throw，asitseems，theaudienceoftheDayTheatresit:theirfacesturnedthisway。Butasthestageishidden，itisveryodd，withoutaknowledgeofthecause，toseetheirfaceschangedsosuddenlyfromearnestnesstolaughter；andodderstill，toheartheroundsuponroundsofapplause，rattlingintheeveningair，towhichthecurtainfalls。

But，beingSundaynight，theyacttheirbestandmostattractiveplay。Andnow，thesunisgoingdown，insuchmagnificentarrayofred，andgreen，andgoldenlight，asneitherpennorpencilcoulddepict；andtotheringingofthevesperbells，darknesssetsinatonce，withoutatwilight。Then，lightsbegintoshineinGenoa，andonthecountryroad；andtherevolvinglanthornoutatseathere，flashing，foraninstant，onthispalacefrontandportico，illuminatesitasiftherewereabrightmoonburstingfrombehindacloud；then，mergesitindeepobscurity。Andthis，sofarasI

know，istheonlyreasonwhytheGenoeseavoiditafterdark，andthinkithaunted。

Mymemorywillhauntit，manynights，intimetocome；butnothingworse，Iwillengage。ThesameGhostwilloccasionallysailaway，asIdidonepleasantautumnevening，intothebrightprospect，andsniffthemorningairatMarseilles。

Thecorpulenthairdresserwasstillsittinginhisslippersoutsidehisshop-doorthere，butthetwirlingladiesinthewindow，withthenaturalinconstancyoftheirsex，hadceasedtotwirl，andwerelanguishing，stockstill，withtheirbeautifulfacesaddressedtoblindcornersoftheestablishment，whereitwasimpossibleforadmirerstopenetrate。

ThesteamerhadcomefromGenoainadeliciousrunofeighteenhours，andweweregoingtorunbackagainbytheCorniceroadfromNice:notbeingsatisfiedtohaveseenonlytheoutsidesofthebeautifultownsthatriseinpicturesquewhiteclustersfromamongtheolivewoods，androcks，andhills，uponthemarginoftheSea。

TheBoatwhichstartedforNicethatnight，ateighto"clock，wasverysmall，andsocrowdedwithgoodsthattherewasscarcelyroomtomove；neitherwasthereanythingtocatonboard，exceptbread；

nortodrink，exceptcoffee。ButbeingdueatNiceatabouteightorsointhemorning，thiswasofnoconsequence；sowhenwebegantowinkatthebrightstars，ininvoluntaryacknowledgmentoftheirwinkingatus，weturnedintoourberths，inacrowded，butcoollittlecabin，andsleptsoundlytillmorning。

TheBoat，beingasdullanddoggedalittleboataseverwasbuilt，itwaswithinanhourofnoonwhenweturnedintoNiceHarbour，whereweverylittleexpectedanythingbutbreakfast。Butwewereladenwithwool。WoolmustnotremainintheCustom-houseatMarseillesmorethantwelvemonthsatastretch，withoutpayingduty。Itisthecustomtomakefictitiousremovalsofunsoldwooltoevadethislaw；totakeitsomewherewhenthetwelvemonthsarenearlyout；bringitstraightbackagain；andwarehouseit，asanewcargo，fornearlytwelvemonthslonger。Thiswoolofours，hadcomeoriginallyfromsomeplaceintheEast。ItwasrecognisedasEasternproduce，themomentweenteredtheharbour。Accordingly，thegaylittleSundayboats，fullofholidaypeople，whichhadcomeofftogreetus，werewarnedawaybytheauthorities；weweredeclaredinquarantine；andagreatflagwassolemnlyrunuptothemast-headonthewharf，tomakeitknowntoallthetown。

Itwasaveryhotdayindeed。Wewereunshaved，unwashed，undressed，unfed，andcouldhardlyenjoytheabsurdityoflyingblisteringinalazyharbour，withthetownlookingonfromarespectfuldistance，allmannerofwhiskeredmenincockedhatsdiscussingourfateataremoteguard-house，withgestures(welookedveryhardatthemthroughtelescopes)expressiveofaweek"sdetentionatleast:andnothingwhateverthematterallthetime。

ButeveninthiscrisisthebraveCourierachievedatriumph。Hetelegraphedsomebody(Isawnobody)eithernaturallyconnectedwiththehotel，orputENRAPPORTwiththeestablishmentforthatoccasiononly。Thetelegraphwasanswered，andinhalfanhourorless，therecamealoudshoutfromtheguard-house。Thecaptainwaswanted。Everybodyhelpedthecaptainintohisboat。Everybodygothisluggage，andsaidweweregoing。Thecaptainrowedaway，anddisappearedbehindalittlejuttingcorneroftheGalley-

slaves"Prison:andpresentlycamebackwithsomething，verysulkily。ThebraveCouriermethimattheside，andreceivedthesomethingasitsrightfulowner。Itwasawickerbasket，foldedinalinencloth；andinitweretwogreatbottlesofwine，aroastfowl，somesaltfishchoppedwithgarlic，agreatloafofbread，adozenorsoofpeaches，andafewothertrifles。Whenwehadselectedourownbreakfast，thebraveCourierinvitedachosenpartytopartakeoftheserefreshments，andassuredthemthattheyneednotbedeterredbymotivesofdelicacy，ashewouldorderasecondbaskettobefurnishedattheirexpense。Whichhedid-nooneknewhow-andby-and-by，thecaptainbeingagainsummoned，againsulkilyreturnedwithanothersomething；overwhichmypopularattendantpresidedasbefore:carvingwithaclasp-knife，hisownpersonalproperty，somethingsmallerthanaRomansword。

Thewholepartyonboardweremademerrybytheseunexpectedsupplies；butnonemoresothanaloquaciouslittleFrenchman，whogotdrunkinfiveminutes，andasturdyCappuccinoFriar，whohadtakeneverybody"sfancymightily，andwasoneofthebestfriarsintheworld，Iverilybelieve。

Hehadafree，opencountenance；andarichbrown，flowingbeard；

andwasaremarkablyhandsomeman，ofaboutfifty。Hehadcomeuptous，earlyinthemorning，andinquiredwhetherweweresuretobeatNicebyeleven；sayingthatheparticularlywantedtoknow，becauseifwereacheditbythattimehewouldhavetoperformMass，andmustdealwiththeconsecratedwafer，fasting；whereas，iftherewerenochanceofhisbeingintime，hewouldimmediatelybreakfast。Hemadethiscommunication，undertheideathatthebraveCourierwasthecaptain；andindeedhelookedmuchmorelikeitthananybodyelseonboard。Beingassuredthatweshouldarriveingoodtime，hefasted，andtalked，fasting，toeverybody，withthemostcharminggoodhumour；answeringjokesattheexpenseoffriars，withotherjokesattheexpenseoflaymen，andsayingthat，friarashewas，hewouldengagetotakeupthetwostrongestmenonboard，oneaftertheother，withhisteeth，andcarrythemalongthedeck。Nobodygavehimtheopportunity，butIdaresayhecouldhavedoneit；forhewasagallant，noblefigureofaman，evenintheCappuccinodress，whichistheugliestandmostungainlythatcanwellbe。

AllthishadgivengreatdelighttotheloquaciousFrenchman，whograduallypatronisedtheFriarverymuch，andseemedtocommiseratehimasonewhomighthavebeenbornaFrenchmanhimself，butforanunfortunatedestiny。Althoughhispatronagewassuchasamousemightbestowuponalion，hehadavastopinionofitscondescension；andinthewarmthofthatsentiment，occasionallyroseontiptoe，toslaptheFriarontheback。

Whenthebasketsarrived:itbeingthentoolateforMass:theFriarwenttoworkbravely:eatingprodigiouslyofthecoldmeatandbread，drinkingdeepdraughtsofthewine，smokingcigars，takingsnuff，sustaininganuninterruptedconversationwithallhands，andoccasionallyrunningtotheboat"ssideandhailingsomebodyonshorewiththeintelligencethatweMUSTbegotoutofthisquarantinesomehoworother，ashehadtotakepartinagreatreligiousprocessionintheafternoon。Afterthis，hewouldcomeback，laughinglustilyfrompuregoodhumour:whiletheFrenchmanwrinkledhissmallfaceintotenthousandcreases，andsaidhowdrollitwas，andwhatabraveboywasthatFriar！Atlengththeheatofthesunwithout，andthewinewithin，madetheFrenchmansleepy。So，inthenoontideofhispatronageofhisgiganticprotege，helaydownamongthewool，andbegantosnore。

Itwasfouro"clockbeforewewerereleased；andtheFrenchman，dirtyandwoolly，andsnuffy，wasstillsleepingwhentheFriarwentashore。Assoonaswewerefree，weallhurriedaway，towashanddress，thatwemightmakeadecentappearanceattheprocession；andIsawnomoreoftheFrenchmanuntilwetookupourstationinthemainstreettoseeitpass，whenhesqueezedhimselfintoafrontplace，elaboratelyrenovated；threwbackhislittlecoat，toshowabroad-barredvelvetwaistcoat，sprinkledalloverwithstars；thenadjustedhimselfandhiscanesoasutterlytobewilderandtransfixtheFriar，whenheshouldappear。

Theprocessionwasaverylongone，andincludedanimmensenumberofpeopledividedintosmallparties；eachpartychantingnasally，onitsownaccount，withoutreferencetoanyother，andproducingamostdismalresult。Therewereangels，crosses，VirginscarriedonflatboardssurroundedbyCupids，crowns，saints，missals，infantry，tapers，monks，nuns，relics，dignitariesofthechurchingreenhats，walkingundercrimsonparasols:and，hereandthere，aspeciesofsacredstreet-lamphoistedonapole。WelookedoutanxiouslyfortheCappuccini，andpresentlytheirbrownrobesandcordedgirdleswereseencomingon，inabody。

IobservedthelittleFrenchmanchuckleovertheideathatwhentheFriarsawhiminthebroad-barredwaistcoat，hewouldmentallyexclaim，"IsthatmyPatron！THATdistinguishedman！"andwouldbecoveredwithconfusion。Ah！neverwastheFrenchmansodeceived。

AsourfriendtheCappuccinoadvanced，withfoldedarms，helookedstraightintothevisageofthelittleFrenchman，withabland，serene，composedabstraction，nottobedescribed。Therewasnotthefaintesttraceofrecognitionoramusementonhisfeatures；notthesmallestconsciousnessofbreadandmeat，wine，snuff，orcigars。"C"estlui-meme，"IheardthelittleFrenchmansay，insomedoubt。Ohyes，itwashimself。Itwasnothisbrotherorhisnephew，verylikehim。Itwashe。Hewalkedingreatstate:

beingoneoftheSuperiorsoftheOrder:andlookedhisparttoadmiration。Thereneverwasanythingsoperfectofitskindasthecontemplativewayinwhichheallowedhisplacidgazetorestonus，hislatecompanions，asifhehadneverseenusinhislifeanddidn"tseeusthen。TheFrenchman，quitehumbled，tookoffhishatatlast，buttheFriarstillpassedon，withthesameimperturbableserenity；andthebroad-barredwaistcoat，fadingintothecrowd，wasseennomore。

Theprocessionwoundupwithadischargeofmusketrythatshookallthewindowsinthetown。NextafternoonwestartedforGenoa，bythefamedCorniceroad。

Thehalf-French，half-ItalianVetturino，whoundertook，withhislittlerattlingcarriageandpair，toconveyusthitherinthreedays，wasacareless，good-lookingfellow，whoselight-heartednessandsingingpropensitiesknewnoboundsaslongaswewentonsmoothly。Solong，hehadawordandasmile，andaflickofhiswhip，forallthepeasantgirls，andoddsandendsoftheSonnambulaforalltheechoes。Solong，hewentjinglingthrougheverylittlevillage，withbellsonhishorsesandringsinhisears:averymeteorofgallantryandcheerfulness。But，itwashighlycharacteristictoseehimunderaslightreverseofcircumstances，when，inonepartofthejourney，wecametoanarrowplacewhereawaggonhadbrokendownandstoppeduptheroad。Hishandsweretwinedinhishairimmediately，asifacombinationofallthedirestaccidentsinlifehadsuddenlyfallenonhisdevotedhead。HesworeinFrench，prayedinItalian，andwentupanddown，beatinghisfeetonthegroundinaveryecstasyofdespair。Therewerevariouscartersandmule-driversassembledroundthebrokenwaggon，andatlastsomemanofanoriginalturnofmind，proposedthatageneralandjointeffortshouldbemadetogetthingsto-rightsagain，andcleartheway-anideawhichI

verilybelievewouldneverhavepresenteditselftoourfriend，thoughwehadremainedthereuntilnow。Itwasdoneatnogreatcostoflabour；butateverypauseinthedoing，hishandswerewoundinhishairagain，asiftherewerenorayofhopetolightenhismisery。Themomenthewasonhisboxoncemore，andclatteringbrisklydownhill，hereturnedtotheSonnambulaandthepeasantgirls，asifitwerenotinthepowerofmisfortunetodepresshim。

Muchoftheromanceofthebeautifultownsandvillagesonthisbeautifulroad，disappearswhentheyareentered，formanyofthemareverymiserable。Thestreetsarenarrow，dark，anddirty；theinhabitantsleanandsqualid；andthewitheredoldwomen，withtheirwirygreyhairtwistedupintoaknotonthetopofthehead，likeapadtocarryloadson，aresointenselyugly，bothalongtheRiviera，andinGenoa，too，that，seenstragglingaboutindimdoor-wayswiththeirspindles，orcrooningtogetherinby-corners，theyarelikeapopulationofWitches-exceptthattheycertainlyarenottobesuspectedofbroomsoranyotherinstrumentofcleanliness。Neitherarethepig-skins，incommonusetoholdwine，andhungoutinthesuninalldirections，byanymeansornamental，astheyalwayspreservetheformofverybloatedpigs，withtheirheadsandlegscutoff，danglingupside-downbytheirowntails。

Thesetowns，astheyareseenintheapproach，however:nestling，withtheirclusteringroofsandtowers，amongtreesonsteephill-

sides，orbuiltuponthebrinkofnoblebays:arecharming。Thevegetationis，everywhere，luxuriantandbeautiful，andthePalm-

treemakesanovelfeatureinthenovelscenery。Inonetown，SanRemo-amostextraordinaryplace，builtongloomyopenarches，sothatonemightrambleunderneaththewholetown-thereareprettyterracegardens；inothertowns，thereistheclangofshipwrights"

hammers，andthebuildingofsmallvesselsonthebeach。Insomeofthebroadbays，thefleetsofEuropemightrideatanchor。Ineverycase，eachlittlegroupofhousespresents，inthedistance，someenchantingconfusionofpicturesqueandfancifulshapes。

Theroaditself-nowhighabovetheglitteringsea，whichbreaksagainstthefootoftheprecipice:nowturninginlandtosweeptheshoreofabay:nowcrossingthestonybedofamountainstream:

nowlowdownonthebeach:nowwindingamongrivenrocksofmanyformsandcolours:nowchequeredbyasolitaryruinedtower，oneofachainoftowersbuilt，inoldtime，toprotectthecoastfromtheinvasionsoftheBarbaryCorsairs-presentsnewbeautieseverymoment。Whenitsownstrikingsceneryispassed，andittrailsonthroughalonglineofsuburb，lyingontheflatseashore，toGenoa，then，thechangingglimpsesofthatnoblecityanditsharbour，awakenanewsourceofinterest；freshenedbyeveryhuge，unwieldy，half-inhabitedoldhouseinitsoutskirts:andcomingtoitsclimaxwhenthecitygateisreached，andallGenoawithitsbeautifulharbour，andneighbouringhills，burstsproudlyontheview。

CHAPTERV-TOPARMA，MODENA，ANDBOLOGNA

ISTROLLEDawayfromGenoaonthe6thofNovember，boundforagoodmanyplaces(Englandamongthem)，butfirstforPiacenza；forwhichtownIstartedintheCOUPEofamachinesomethinglikeatravellingcaravan，incompanywiththebraveCourier，andaladywithalargedog，whohowleddolefully，atintervals，allnight。

Itwasverywet，andverycold；verydark，andverydismal；wetravelledattherateofbarelyfourmilesanhour，andstoppednowhereforrefreshment。Atteno"clocknextmorning，wechangedcoachesatAlessandria，wherewewerepackedupinanothercoach(thebodywhereofwouldhavebeensmallforafly)，incompanywithaveryoldpriest；ayoungJesuit，hiscompanion-whocarriedtheirbreviariesandotherbooks，andwho，intheexertionofgettingintothecoach，hadmadeagashofpinklegbetweenhisblackstockingandhisblackknee-shorts，thatremindedoneofHamletinOphelia"scloset，onlyitwasvisibleonbothlegs-aprovincialAvvocato；andagentlemanwitharednosethathadanuncommonandsingularsheenuponit，whichIneverobservedinthehumansubjectbefore。Inthiswaywetravelledon，untilfouro"clockintheafternoon；theroadsbeingstillveryheavy，andthecoachveryslow。Tomendthematter，theoldpriestwastroubledwithcrampsinhislegs，sothathehadtogiveaterribleyelleverytenminutesorso，andbehoistedoutbytheunitedeffortsofthecompany；thecoachalwaysstoppingforhim，withgreatgravity。Thisdisorder，andtheroads，formedthemainsubjectofconversation。Finding，intheafternoon，thattheCOUPEhaddischargedtwopeople，andhadonlyonepassengerinside-amonstrousuglyTuscan，withagreatpurplemoustache，ofwhichnomancouldseetheendswhenhehadhishaton-Itookadvantageofitsbetteraccommodation，andincompanywiththisgentleman(whowasveryconversationalandgood-humoured)travelledon，untilnearlyeleveno"clockatnight，whenthedriverreportedthathecouldn"tthinkofgoinganyfarther，andweaccordinglymadeahaltataplacecalledStradella。

Theinnwasaseriesofstrangegalleriessurroundingayardwhereourcoach，andawaggonortwo，andalotoffowls，andfirewood，wereallheapeduptogether，higgledy-piggledy；sothatyoudidn"tknow，andcouldn"thavetakenyouroath，whichwasafowlandwhichwasacart。Wefollowedasleepymanwithaflaringtorch，intoagreat，coldroom，wherethereweretwoimmenselybroadbeds，onwhatlookedliketwoimmenselybroaddealdining-tables；anotherdealtableofsimilardimensionsinthemiddleofthebarefloor；

fourwindows；andtwochairs。Somebodysaiditwasmyroom；andI

walkedupanddownit，forhalfanhourorso，staringattheTuscan，theoldpriest，theyoungpriest，andtheAvvocato(Red-

Noselivedinthetown，andhadgonehome)，whosatupontheirbeds，andstaredatmeinreturn。

Theratherdrearywhimsicalityofthisstageoftheproceedings，isinterruptedbyanannouncementfromtheBrave(hehadbeencooking)

thatsupperisready；andtothepriest"schamber(thenextroomandthecounterpartofmine)wealladjourn。Thefirstdishisacabbage，boiledwithagreatquantityofriceinatureenfullofwater，andflavouredwithcheese。Itissohot，andwearesocold，thatitappearsalmostjolly。Theseconddishissomelittlebitsofpork，friedwithpigs"kidneys。Thethird，tworedfowls。

Thefourth，twolittleredturkeys。Thefifth，ahugestewofgarlicandtruffles，andIdon"tknowwhatelse；andthisconcludestheentertainment。

BeforeIcansitdowninmyownchamber，andthinkitofthedampest，thedooropens，andtheBravecomesmovingin，inthemiddleofsuchaquantityoffuelthathelookslikeBirnamWoodtakingawinterwalk。Hekindlesthisheapinatwinkling，andproducesajorumofhotbrandyandwater；forthatbottleofhiskeepscompanywiththeseasons，andnowholdsnothingbutthepurestEAUDEVIE。Whenhehasaccomplishedthisfeat，heretiresforthenight；andIhearhim，foranhourafterwards，andindeeduntilIfallasleep，makingjokesinsomeouthouse(apparentlyunderthepillow)，whereheissmokingcigarswithapartyofconfidentialfriends。Heneverwasinthehouseinhislifebefore；butheknowseverybodyeverywhere，beforehehasbeenanywherefiveminutes；andiscertaintohaveattractedtohimself，inthemeantime，theenthusiasticdevotionofthewholeestablishment。

Thisisattwelveo"clockatnight。Atfouro"clocknextmorning，heisupagain，fresherthanafull-blownrose；makingblazingfireswithouttheleastauthorityfromthelandlord；producingmugsofscaldingcoffeewhennobodyelsecangetanythingbutcoldwater；andgoingoutintothedarkstreets，androaringforfreshmilk，onthechanceofsomebodywithacowgettinguptosupplyit。

Whilethehorsesare"coming，"Istumbleoutintothetowntoo。ItseemstobeallonelittlePiazza，withacolddampwindblowinginandoutofthearches，alternately，inasortofpattern。Butitisprofoundlydark，andrainingheavily；andIshouldn"tknowitto-morrow，ifIweretakentheretotry。WhichHeavenforbid。

Thehorsesarriveinaboutanhour。Intheinterval，thedriverswears；sometimesChristianoaths，sometimesPaganoaths。

Sometimes，whenitisalong，compoundoath，hebeginswithChristianityandmergesintoPaganism。Variousmessengersaredespatched；notsomuchafterthehorses，asaftereachother；forthefirstmessengernevercomesback，andalltherestimitatehim。

Atlengththehorsesappear，surroundedbyallthemessengers；somekickingthem，andsomedraggingthem，andallshoutingabusetothem。Then，theoldpriest，theyoungpriest，theAvvocato，theTuscan，andallofus，takeourplaces；andsleepyvoicesproceedingfromthedoorsofextraordinaryhutchesindiverspartsoftheyard，cryout"Addiocorrieremio！Buon"viaggio，corriere！"Salutationswhichthecourier，withhisfaceonemonstrousgrin，returnsinlikemanneraswegojoltingandwallowingaway，throughthemud。

AtPiacenza，whichwasfourorfivehours"journeyfromtheinnatStradella，webrokeupourlittlecompanybeforethehoteldoor，withdiversmanifestationsoffriendlyfeelingonallsides。Theoldpriestwastakenwiththecrampagain，beforehehadgothalf-

waydownthestreet；andtheyoungpriestlaidthebundleofbooksonadoor-step，whilehedutifullyrubbedtheoldgentleman"slegs。

TheclientoftheAvvocatowaswaitingforhimattheyard-gate，andkissedhimoneachcheek，withsucharesoundingsmack，thatI

amafraidhehadeitheraverybadcase，orascantily-furnishedpurse。TheTuscan，withacigarinhismouth，wentloiteringoff，carryinghishatinhishandthathemightthebettertrailuptheendsofhisdishevelledmoustache。AndthebraveCourier，asheandIstrolledawaytolookaboutus，beganimmediatelytoentertainmewiththeprivatehistoriesandfamilyaffairsofthewholeparty。

Abrown，decayed，oldtown，Piacenzais。Adeserted，solitary，grass-grownplace，withruinedramparts；halffilled-uptrenches，whichaffordafrowsypasturagetotheleankinethatwanderaboutthem；andstreetsofsternhouses，moodilyfrowningattheotherhousesovertheway。Thesleepiestandshabbiestofsoldierygowanderingabout，withthedoublecurseoflazinessandpoverty，uncouthlywrinklingtheirmisfittingregimentals；thedirtiestofchildrenplaywiththeirimpromptutoys(pigsandmud)inthefeeblestofgutters；andthegauntestofdogstrotinandoutofthedullestofarchways，inperpetualsearchofsomethingtoeat，whichtheyneverseemtofind。AmysteriousandsolemnPalace，guardedbytwocolossalstatues，twinGeniioftheplace，standsgravelyinthemidstoftheidletown；andthekingwiththemarblelegs，whoflourishedinthetimeofthethousandandoneNights，mightlivecontentedlyinsideofit，andneverhavetheenergy，inhisupperhalfoffleshandblood，towanttocomeout。

Whatastrange，half-sorrowfulandhalf-deliciousdozeitis，toramblethroughtheseplacesgonetosleepandbaskinginthesun！

Each，initsturn，appearstobe，ofallthemouldy，dreary，God-

forgottentownsinthewideworld，thechief。Sittingonthishillockwhereabastionusedtobe，andwhereanoisyfortresswas，inthetimeoftheoldRomanstationhere，IbecameawarethatI

haveneverknowntillnow，whatitistobelazy。Adormousemustsurelybeinverymuchthesameconditionbeforeheretiresunderthewoolinhiscage；oratortoisebeforeheburieshimself。

IfeelthatIamgettingrusty。Thatanyattempttothink，wouldbeaccompaniedwithacreakingnoise。Thatthereisnothing，anywhere，tobedone，orneedingtobedone。Thatthereisnomorehumanprogress，motion，effort，oradvancement，ofanykindbeyondthis。Thatthewholeschemestoppedherecenturiesago，andlaiddowntorestuntiltheDayofJudgment。

NeverwhilethebraveCourierlives！BeholdhimjinglingoutofPiacenza，andstaggeringthisway，inthetallestposting-chaiseeverseen，sothathelooksoutofthefrontwindowasifhewerepeepingoveragardenwall；whilethepostilion，concentratedessenceofalltheshabbinessofItaly，pausesforamomentinhisanimatedconversation，totouchhishattoablunt-nosedlittleVirgin，hardlylessshabbythanhimself，enshrinedinaplasterPunch"sshowoutsidethetown。

InGenoa，andthereabouts，theytrainthevinesontrellis-work，supportedonsquareclumsypillars，which，inthemselves，areanythingbutpicturesque。But，here，theytwinethemaroundtrees，andletthemtrailamongthehedges；andthevineyardsarefulloftrees，regularlyplantedforthispurpose，eachwithitsownvinetwiningandclusteringaboutit。Theirleavesarenowofthebrightestgoldanddeepestred；andneverwasanythingsoenchantinglygracefulandfullofbeauty。Throughmilesofthesedelightfulformsandcolours，theroadwindsitsway。Thewildfestoons，theelegantwreaths，andcrowns，andgarlandsofallshapes；thefairynetsflungovergreattrees，andmakingthemprisonersinsport；thetumbledheapsandmoundsofexquisiteshapesupontheground；howrichandbeautifultheyare！Andeverynowandthen，along，longlineoftrees，willbeallboundandgarlandedtogether:asiftheyhadtakenholdofoneanother，andwerecomingdancingdownthefield！

Parmahascheerful，stirringstreets，foranItaliantown；andconsequentlyisnotsocharacteristicasmanyplacesoflessnote。

AlwaysexceptingtheretiredPiazza，wheretheCathedral，Baptistery，andCampanile-ancientbuildings，ofasombrebrown，embellishedwithinnumerablegrotesquemonstersanddreamy-lookingcreaturescarvedinmarbleandredstone-areclusteredinanobleandmagnificentrepose。Theirsilentpresencewasonlyinvaded，whenIsawthem，bythetwitteringofthemanybirdsthatwereflyinginandoutofthecrevicesinthestonesandlittlenooksinthearchitecture，wheretheyhadmadetheirnests。Theywerebusy，risingfromthecoldshadeofTemplesmadewithhands，intothesunnyairofHeaven。Notsotheworshipperswithin，whowerelisteningtothesamedrowsychaunt，orkneelingbeforethesamekindsofimagesandtapers，orwhispering，withtheirheadsboweddown，intheselfsamedarkconfessionals，asIhadleftinGenoaandeverywhereelse。

Thedecayedandmutilatedpaintingswithwhichthischurchiscovered，have，tomythinking，aremarkablymournfulanddepressinginfluence。Itismiserabletoseegreatworksofart-somethingoftheSoulsofPainters-perishingandfadingaway，likehumanforms。ThiscathedralisodorouswiththerottingofCorreggio"sfrescoesintheCupola。Heavenknowshowbeautifultheymayhavebeenatonetime。Connoisseursfallintoraptureswiththemnow；

butsuchalabyrinthofarmsandlegs:suchheapsoffore-

shortenedlimbs，entangledandinvolvedandjumbledtogether:nooperativesurgeon，gonemad，couldimagineinhiswildestdelirium。

Thereisaveryinterestingsubterraneanchurchhere:theroofsupportedbymarblepillars，behindeachofwhichthereseemedtobeatleastonebeggarinambush:tosaynothingofthetombsandsecludedaltars。Fromeveryoneoftheselurking-places，suchcrowdsofphantom-lookingmenandwomen，leadingothermenandwomenwithtwistedlimbs，orchatteringjaws，orparalyticgestures，oridioticheads，orsomeothersadinfirmity，camehobblingouttobeg，thatiftheruinedfrescoesinthecathedralabove，hadbeensuddenlyanimated，andhadretiredtothislowerchurch，theycouldhardlyhavemadeagreaterconfusion，orexhibitedamoreconfoundingdisplayofarmsandlegs。

ThereisPetrarch"sMonument，too；andthereistheBaptistery，withitsbeautifularchesandimmensefont；andthereisagallerycontainingsomeveryremarkablepictures，whereofafewwerebeingcopiedbyhairy-facedartists，withlittlevelvetcapsmoreofftheirheadsthanon。ThereistheFarnesePalace，too；andinitoneofthedreariestspectaclesofdecaythateverwasseen-agrand，old，gloomytheatre，moulderingaway。

Itisalargewoodenstructure，ofthehorse-shoeshape；thelowerseatsarrangedupontheRomanplan，butabovethem，greatheavychambers；ratherthanboxes，wheretheNoblessat，remoteintheirproudstate。Suchdesolationashasfallenonthistheatre，enhancedinthespectator"sfancybyitsgayintentionanddesign，nonebutwormscanbefamiliarwith。Ahundredandtenyearshavepassed，sinceanyplaywasactedhere。Theskyshinesinthroughthegashesintheroof；theboxesaredroppingdown，wastingaway，andonlytenantedbyrats；dampandmildewsmearthefadedcolours，andmakespectralmapsuponthepanels；leanragsaredanglingdownwherethereweregayfestoonsontheProscenium；thestagehasrottedso，thatanarrowwoodengalleryisthrownacrossit，oritwouldsinkbeneaththetread，andburythevisitorinthegloomydepthbeneath。Thedesolationanddecayimpressthemselvesonallthesenses。Theairhasamoulderingsmell，andanearthytaste；

anystrayoutersoundsthatstraggleinwithsomelostsunbeam，aremuffledandheavy；andtheworm，themaggot，andtherothavechangedthesurfaceofthewoodbeneaththetouch，astimewillseamandroughenasmoothhand。IfeverGhostsactplays，theyactthemonthisghostlystage。

Itwasmostdeliciousweather，whenwecameintoModena，wherethedarknessofthesombrecolonnadesoverthefootwaysskirtingthemainstreetoneitherside，wasmaderefreshingandagreeablebythebrightsky，sowonderfullyblue。Ipassedfromallthegloryoftheday，intoadimcathedral，whereHighMasswasperforming，feebletaperswereburning，peoplewerekneelinginalldirectionsbeforeallmannerofshrines，andofficiatingpriestswerecrooningtheusualchant，intheusual，low，dull，drawling，melancholytone。

Thinkinghowstrangeitwas，tofind，ineverystagnanttown，thissameHeartbeatingwiththesamemonotonouspulsation，thecentreofthesametorpid，listlesssystem，Icameoutbyanotherdoor，andwassuddenlyscaredtodeathbyablastfromtheshrillesttrumpetthateverwasblown。Immediately，cametearingroundthecorner，anequestriancompanyfromParis:marshallingthemselvesunderthewallsofthechurch，andflouting，withtheirhorses"

heels，thegriffins，lions，tigers，andothermonstersinstoneandmarble，decoratingitsexterior。First，therecameastatelynoblemanwithagreatdealofhair，andnohat，bearinganenormousbanner，onwhichwasinscribed，MAZEPPA！TO-NIGHT！Then，aMexicanchief，withagreatpear-shapedclubonhisshoulder，likeHercules。Then，sixoreightRomanchariots:eachwithabeautifulladyinextremelyshortpetticoats，andunnaturallypinktights，erectwithin:sheddingbeaminglooksuponthecrowd，inwhichtherewasalatentexpressionofdiscomposureandanxiety，forwhichIcouldn"taccount，until，astheopenbackofeachchariotpresenteditself，Isawtheimmensedifficultywithwhichthepinklegsmaintainedtheirperpendicular，overtheunevenpavementofthetown:whichgavemequiteanewideaoftheancientRomansandBritons。Theprocessionwasbroughttoaclose，bysomedozenindomitablewarriorsofdifferentnations，ridingtwoandtwo，andhaughtilysurveyingthetamepopulationofModena:

amongwhom，however，theyoccasionallycondescendedtoscatterlargesseintheformofafewhandbills。Aftercaracollingamongthelionsandtigers，andproclaimingthatevening"sentertainmentswithblastoftrumpet，itthenfiledoff，bytheotherendofthesquare，andleftanewandgreatlyincreaseddulnessbehind。

Whentheprocessionhadsoentirelypassedaway，thattheshrilltrumpetwasmildinthedistance，andthetailofthelasthorsewashopelesslyroundthecorner，thepeoplewhohadcomeoutofthechurchtostareatit，wentbackagain。Butoneoldlady，kneelingonthepavementwithin，nearthedoor，hadseenitall，andhadbeenimmenselyinterested，withoutgettingup；andthisoldlady"seye，atthatjuncture，Ihappenedtocatch:toourmutualconfusion。Shecutourembarrassmentveryshort，however，bycrossingherselfdevoutly，andgoingdown，atfulllength，onherface，beforeafigureinafancypetticoatandagiltcrown；whichwassolikeoneoftheprocession-figures，thatperhapsatthishourshemaythinkthewholeappearanceacelestialvision。