第1章
IFthereadersofthisvolumewillbesokindastotaketheircredentialsforthedifferentplaceswhicharethesubjectofitsauthor"sreminiscences，fromtheAuthorhimself，perhapstheymayvisitthem，infancy，themoreagreeably，andwithabetterunderstandingofwhattheyaretoexpect。
ManybookshavebeenwrittenuponItaly，affordingmanymeansofstudyingthehistoryofthatinterestingcountry，andtheinnumerableassociationsentwinedaboutit。Imakebutlittlereferencetothatstockofinformation；notatallregardingitasanecessaryconsequenceofmyhavinghadrecoursetothestorehouseformyownbenefit，thatIshouldreproduceitseasilyaccessiblecontentsbeforetheeyesofmyreaders。
Neitherwilltherebefound，inthesepages，anygraveexaminationintothegovernmentormisgovernmentofanyportionofthecountry。
Novisitorofthatbeautifullandcanfailtohaveastrongconvictiononthesubject；butasIchosewhenresidingthere，aForeigner，toabstainfromthediscussionofanysuchquestionswithanyorderofItalians，soIwouldrathernotenterontheinquirynow。Duringmytwelvemonths"occupationofahouseatGenoa，Ineverfoundthatauthoritiesconstitutionallyjealousweredistrustfulofme；andIshouldbesorrytogivethemoccasiontoregrettheirfreecourtesy，eithertomyselforanyofmycountrymen。
Thereis，probably，notafamousPictureorStatueinallItaly，butcouldbeeasilyburiedunderamountainofprintedpaperdevotedtodissertationsonit。Idonot，therefore，thoughanearnestadmirerofPaintingandSculpture，expatiateatanylengthonfamousPicturesandStatues。
ThisBookisaseriesoffaintreflections-mereshadowsinthewater-ofplacestowhichtheimaginationsofmostpeopleareattractedinagreaterorlessdegree，onwhichminehaddweltforyears，andwhichhavesomeinterestforall。Thegreaterpartofthedescriptionswerewrittenonthespot，andsenthome，fromtimetotime，inprivateletters。Idonotmentionthecircumstanceasanexcuseforanydefectstheymaypresent，foritwouldbenone；
butasaguaranteetotheReaderthattheywereatleastpennedinthefulnessofthesubject，andwiththeliveliestimpressionsofnoveltyandfreshness。
Iftheyhaveeverafancifulandidleair，perhapsthereaderwillsupposethemwrittenintheshadeofaSunnyDay，inthemidstoftheobjectsofwhichtheytreat，andwilllikethemnonetheworseforhavingsuchinfluencesofthecountryuponthem。
IhopeIamnotlikelytobemisunderstoodbyProfessorsoftheRomanCatholicfaith，onaccountofanythingcontainedinthesepages。Ihavedonemybest，inoneofmyformerproductions，todojusticetothem；andItrust，inthis，theywilldojusticetome。
WhenImentionanyexhibitionthatimpressedmeasabsurdordisagreeable，Idonotseektoconnectit，orrecogniseitasnecessarilyconnectedwith，anyessentialsoftheircreed。WhenI
treatoftheceremoniesoftheHolyWeek，Imerelytreatoftheireffect，anddonotchallengethegoodandlearnedDr。Wiseman"sinterpretationoftheirmeaning。WhenIhintadislikeofnunneriesforyounggirlswhoabjuretheworldbeforetheyhaveeverprovedorknownit；ordoubttheEXOFFICIOsanctityofallPriestsandFriars；IdonomorethanmanyconscientiousCatholicsbothabroadandathome。
IhavelikenedthesePicturestoshadowsinthewater，andwouldfainhopethatIhave，nowhere，stirredthewatersoroughly，astomartheshadows。Icouldneverdesiretobeonbettertermswithallmyfriendsthannow，whendistantmountainsrise，oncemore，inmypath。ForIneednothesitatetoavow，that，bentoncorrectingabriefmistakeImade，notlongago，indisturbingtheoldrelationsbetweenmyselfandmyreaders，anddepartingforamomentfrommyoldpursuits，Iamabouttoresumethem，joyfully，inSwitzerland；whereduringanotheryearofabsence，IcanatonceworkoutthethemesIhavenowinmymind，withoutinterruption:
andwhileIkeepmyEnglishaudiencewithinspeakingdistance，extendmyknowledgeofanoblecountry，inexpressiblyattractivetome。
Thisbookismadeasaccessibleaspossible，becauseitwouldbeagreatpleasuretomeifIcouldhope，throughitsmeans，tocompareimpressionswithsomeamongthemultitudeswhowillhereaftervisitthescenesdescribedwithinterestanddelight。
AndIhaveonlynow，inpassportwise，tosketchmyreader"sportrait，whichIhopemaybethussupposititiouslytracedforeithersex:
ComplexionFair。
EyesVerycheerful。
NoseNotsupercilious。
MouthSmiling。
VisageBeaming。
GeneralExpressionExtremelyagreeable。
CHAPTERI-GOINGTHROUGHFRANCE
ONafineSundaymorningintheMidsummertimeandweatherofeighteenhundredandforty-four，itwas，mygoodfriend，when-
don"tbealarmed；notwhentwotravellersmighthavebeenobservedslowlymakingtheirwayoverthatpicturesqueandbrokengroundbywhichthefirstchapterofaMiddleAgednovelisusuallyattained-butwhenanEnglishtravelling-carriageofconsiderableproportions，freshfromtheshadyhallsofthePantechniconnearBelgraveSquare，London，wasobserved(byaverysmallFrenchsoldier；forIsawhimlookatit)toissuefromthegateoftheHotelMeuriceintheRueRivoliatParis。
IamnomoreboundtoexplainwhytheEnglishfamilytravellingbythiscarriage，insideandout，shouldbestartingforItalyonaSundaymorning，ofallgooddaysintheweek，thanIamtoassignareasonforallthelittlemeninFrancebeingsoldiers，andallthebigmenpostilions；whichistheinvariablerule。But，theyhadsomesortofreasonforwhattheydid，Ihavenodoubt；andtheirreasonforbeingthereatall，was，asyouknow，thattheyweregoingtoliveinfairGenoaforayear；andthattheheadofthefamilypurposed，inthatspaceoftime，tostrollabout，whereverhisrestlesshumourcarriedhim。
AnditwouldhavebeensmallcomforttometohaveexplainedtothepopulationofParisgenerally，thatIwasthatHeadandChief；andnottheradiantembodimentofgoodhumourwhosatbesidemeinthepersonofaFrenchCourier-bestofservantsandmostbeamingofmen！Truthtosay，helookedagreatdealmorepatriarchalthanI，who，intheshadowofhisportlypresence，dwindleddowntonoaccountatall。
Therewas，ofcourse，verylittleintheaspectofParis-aswerattlednearthedismalMorgueandoverthePontNeuf-toreproachusforourSundaytravelling。Thewine-shops(everysecondhouse)
weredrivingaroaringtrade；awningswerespreading，andchairsandtablesarranging，outsidethecafes，preparatorytotheeatingofices，anddrinkingofcoolliquids，laterintheday；shoe-
blackswerebusyonthebridges；shopswereopen；cartsandwaggonsclatteredtoandfro；thenarrow，up-hill，funnel-likestreetsacrosstheRiver，weresomanydenseperspectivesofcrowdandbustle，parti-colourednight-caps，tobacco-pipes，blouses，largeboots，andshaggyheadsofhair；nothingatthathourdenotedadayofrest，unlessitweretheappearance，hereandthere，ofafamilypleasure-party，crammedintoabulkyoldlumberingcab；orofsomecontemplativeholiday-makerinthefreestandeasiestdishabille，leaningoutofalowgarretwindow，watchingthedryingofhisnewlypolishedshoesonthelittleparapetoutside(ifagentleman)，ortheairingofherstockingsinthesun(ifalady)，withcalmanticipation。
Onceclearofthenever-to-be-forgotten-or-forgivenpavementwhichsurroundsParis，thefirstthreedaysoftravellingtowardsMarseillesarequietandmonotonousenough。ToSens。ToAvallon。
ToChalons。Asketchofoneday"sproceedingsisasketchofallthree；andhereitis。
Wehavefourhorses，andonepostilion，whohasaverylongwhip，anddriveshisteam，somethingliketheCourierofSaintPetersburghinthecircleatAstley"sorFranconi"s:onlyhesitshisownhorseinsteadofstandingonhim。Theimmensejack-bootswornbythesepostilions，aresometimesacenturyortwoold；andaresoludicrouslydisproportionatetothewearer"sfoot，thatthespur，whichisputwherehisownheelcomes，isgenerallyhalfwayupthelegoftheboots。Themanoftencomesoutofthestable-
yard，withhiswhipinhishandandhisshoeson，andbringsout，inbothhands，onebootatatime，whichheplantsonthegroundbythesideofhishorse，withgreatgravity，untileverythingisready。Whenitis-andohHeaven！thenoisetheymakeaboutit！-
hegetsintotheboots，shoesandall，orishoistedintothembyacoupleoffriends；adjuststheropeharness，embossedbythelaboursofinnumerablepigeonsinthestables；makesallthehorseskickandplunge；crackshiswhiplikeamadman；shouts"Enroute-
Hi！"andawaywego。Heissuretohaveacontestwithhishorsebeforewehavegoneveryfar；andthenhecallshimaThief，andaBrigand，andaPig，andwhatnot；andbeatshimabouttheheadasifheweremadeofwood。
Thereislittlemorethanonevarietyintheappearanceofthecountry，forthefirsttwodays。Fromadrearyplain，toaninterminableavenue，andfromaninterminableavenuetoadrearyplainagain。Plentyofvinesthereareintheopenfields，butofashortlowkind，andnottrainedinfestoons，butaboutstraightsticks。Beggarsinnumerablethereare，everywhere；butanextraordinarilyscantypopulation，andfewerchildrenthanIeverencountered。Idon"tbelievewesawahundredchildrenbetweenParisandChalons。Queeroldtowns，draw-bridgedandwalled:withoddlittletowersattheangles，likegrotesquefaces，asifthewallhadputamaskon，andwerestaringdownintothemoat；otherstrangelittletowers，ingardensandfields，anddownlanes，andinfarm-yards:allalone，andalwaysround，withapeakedroof，andneverusedforanypurposeatall；ruinousbuildingsofallsorts；sometimesanhoteldeville，sometimesaguard-house，sometimesadwelling-house，sometimesachateauwitharankgarden，prolificindandelion，andwatchedoverbyextinguisher-toppedturrets，andblink-eyedlittlecasements；arethestandardobjects，repeatedoverandoveragain。Sometimeswepassavillageinn，withacrumblingwallbelongingtoit，andaperfecttownofout-
houses；andpaintedoverthegateway，"StablingforSixtyHorses；"
asindeedtheremightbestablingforsixtyscore，werethereanyhorsestobestabledthere，oranybodyrestingthere，oranythingstirringabouttheplacebutadanglingbush，indicativeofthewineinside:whichfluttersidlyinthewind，inlazykeepingwitheverythingelse，andcertainlyisneverinagreenoldage，thoughalwayssooldastobedroppingtopieces。Andalldaylong，strangelittlenarrowwaggons，instringsofsixoreight，bringingcheesefromSwitzerland，andfrequentlyincharge，thewholeline，ofoneman，orevenboy-andheveryoftenasleepintheforemostcart-comejinglingpast:thehorsesdrowsilyringingthebellsupontheirharness，andlookingasiftheythought(nodoubttheydo)theirgreatbluewoollyfurniture，ofimmenseweightandthickness，withapairofgrotesquehornsgrowingoutofthecollar，verymuchtoowarmfortheMidsummerweather。
Then，thereistheDiligence，twiceorthricea-day；withthedustyoutsidesinbluefrocks，likebutchers；andtheinsidesinwhitenightcaps；anditscabrioletheadontheroof，noddingandshaking，likeanidiot"shead；anditsYoung-Francepassengersstaringoutofwindow，withbeardsdowntotheirwaists，andbluespectaclesawfullyshadingtheirwarlikeeyes，andverybigsticksclenchedintheirNationalgrasp。AlsotheMallePoste，withonlyacoupleofpassengers，tearingalongatarealgooddare-devilpace，andoutofsightinnotime。SteadyoldCurescomejoltingpast，nowandthen，insuchramshackle，rusty，musty，clatteringcoachesasnoEnglishmanwouldbelievein；andbonywomendawdleaboutinsolitaryplaces，holdingcowsbyropeswhiletheyfeed，ordiggingandhoeingordoingfield-workofamorelaboriouskind，orrepresentingrealshepherdesseswiththeirflocks-toobtainanadequateideaofwhichpursuitanditsfollowers，inanycountry，itisonlynecessarytotakeanypastoralpoem，orpicture，andimaginetoyourselfwhateverismostexquisitelyandwidelyunlikethedescriptionsthereincontained。
Youhavebeentravellingalong，stupidlyenough，asyougenerallydointhelaststageoftheday；andtheninety-sixbellsuponthehorses-twenty-fourapiece-havebeenringingsleepilyinyourearsforhalfanhourorso；andithasbecomeaveryjog-trot，monotonous，tiresomesortofbusiness；andyouhavebeenthinkingdeeplyaboutthedinneryouwillhaveatthenextstage；when，downattheendofthelongavenueoftreesthroughwhichyouaretravelling，thefirstindicationofatownappears，intheshapeofsomestragglingcottages:andthecarriagebeginstorattleandrolloverahorriblyunevenpavement。Asiftheequipagewereagreatfirework，andthemeresightofasmokingcottagechimneyhadlightedit，instantlyitbeginstocrackandsplutter，asiftheverydevilwereinit。Crack，crack，crack，crack。Crack-crack-
crack。Crick-crack。Crick-crack。Helo！Hola！Vite！Voleur！
Brigand！Hihihi！Enr-r-r-r-r-route！Whip，wheels，driver，stones，beggars，children，crack，crack，crack；helo！hola！charitepourl"amourdeDieu！crick-crack-crick-crack；crick，crick，crick；
bump，jolt，crack，bump，crick-crack；roundthecorner，upthenarrowstreet，downthepavedhillontheotherside；inthegutter；bump，bump；jolt，jog，crick，crick，crick；crack，crack，crack；intotheshop-windowsontheleft-handsideofthestreet，preliminarytoasweepingturnintothewoodenarchwayontheright；rumble，rumble，rumble；clatter，clatter，clatter；crick，crick，crick；andhereweareintheyardoftheHoteldel"Ecud"Or；usedup，goneout，smoking，spent，exhausted；butsometimesmakingafalsestartunexpectedly，withnothingcomingofit-likeafireworktothelast！
ThelandladyoftheHoteldel"Ecud"Orishere；andthelandlordoftheHoteldel"Ecud"Orishere；andthefemmedechambreoftheHoteldel"Ecud"Orishere；andagentlemaninaglazedcap，witharedbeardlikeabosomfriend，whoisstayingattheHoteldel"Ecud"Or，ishere；andMonsieurleCureiswalkingupanddowninacorneroftheyardbyhimself，withashovelhatuponhishead，andablackgownonhisback，andabookinonehand，andanumbrellaintheother；andeverybody，exceptMonsieurleCure，isopen-mouthedandopen-eyed，fortheopeningofthecarriage-door。
ThelandlordoftheHoteldel"Ecud"Or，dotestothatextentupontheCourier，thathecanhardlywaitforhiscomingdownfromthebox，butembraceshisverylegsandboot-heelsashedescends。"MyCourier！MybraveCourier！Myfriend！Mybrother！"Thelandladyloveshim，thefemmedechambreblesseshim，thegarconworshipshim。TheCourierasksifhisletterhasbeenreceived?Ithas，ithas。Aretheroomsprepared?Theyare，theyare。ThebestroomsformynobleCourier。TheroomsofstateformygallantCourier；
thewholehouseisattheserviceofmybestoffriends！Hekeepshishanduponthecarriage-door，andaskssomeotherquestiontoenhancetheexpectation。Hecarriesagreenleathernpurseoutsidehiscoat，suspendedbyabelt。Theidlerslookatit；onetouchesit。Itisfulloffive-francpieces。Murmursofadmirationareheardamongtheboys。ThelandlordfallsupontheCourier"sneck，andfoldshimtohisbreast。Heissomuchfatterthanhewas，hesays！Helookssorosyandsowell！
Thedoorisopened。Breathlessexpectation。Theladyofthefamilygetsout。Ahsweetlady！Beautifullady！Thesisteroftheladyofthefamilygetsout。GreatHeaven，Ma"amselleischarming！Firstlittleboygetsout。Ah，whatabeautifullittleboy！Firstlittlegirlgetsout。Oh，butthisisanenchantingchild！Secondlittlegirlgetsout。Thelandlady，yieldingtothefinestimpulseofourcommonnature，catchesherupinherarms！
Secondlittleboygetsout。Oh，thesweetboy！Oh，thetenderlittlefamily！Thebabyishandedout。Angelicbaby！Thebabyhastoppedeverything。Alltheraptureisexpendedonthebaby！
Thenthetwonursestumbleout；andtheenthusiasmswellingintomadness，thewholefamilyaresweptup-stairsasonacloud；whiletheidlerspressaboutthecarriage，andlookintoit，andwalkroundit，andtouchit。Foritissomethingtotouchacarriagethathasheldsomanypeople。Itisalegacytoleaveone"schildren。
Theroomsareonthefirstfloor，exceptthenurseryforthenight，whichisagreatramblingchamber，withfourorfivebedsinit:
throughadarkpassage，uptwosteps，downfour，pastapump，acrossabalcony，andnextdoortothestable。Theothersleepingapartmentsarelargeandlofty；eachwithtwosmallbedsteads，tastefullyhung，likethewindows，withredandwhitedrapery。Thesitting-roomisfamous。Dinnerisalreadylaidinitforthree；
andthenapkinsarefoldedincocked-hatfashion。Thefloorsareofredtile。Therearenocarpets，andnotmuchfurnituretospeakof；butthereisabundanceoflooking-glass，andtherearelargevasesunderglassshades，filledwithartificialflowers；andthereareplentyofclocks。Thewholepartyareinmotion。ThebraveCourier，inparticular，iseverywhere:lookingafterthebeds，havingwinepoureddownhisthroatbyhisdearbrotherthelandlord，andpickingupgreencucumbers-alwayscucumbers；Heavenknowswherehegetsthem-withwhichhewalksabout，oneineachhand，liketruncheons。
Dinnerisannounced。Thereisverythinsoup；thereareverylargeloaves-oneapiece；afish；fourdishesafterwards；somepoultryafterwards；adessertafterwards；andnolackofwine。Thereisnotmuchinthedishes；buttheyareverygood，andalwaysreadyinstantly。Whenitisnearlydark，thebraveCourier，havingeatenthetwocucumbers，slicedupinthecontentsofaprettylargedecanterofoil，andanotherofvinegar，emergesfromhisretreatbelow，andproposesavisittotheCathedral，whosemassivetowerfrownsdownuponthecourt-yardoftheinn。Offwego；andverysolemnandgranditis，inthedimlight:sodimatlast，thatthepolite，old，lanthorn-jawedSacristanhasafeeblelittlebitofcandleinhishand，togropeamongthetombswith-andlooksamongthegrimcolumns，verylikealostghostwhoissearchingforhisown。
Underneaththebalcony，whenwereturn，theinferiorservantsoftheinnaresuppingintheopenair，atagreattable；thedish，astewofmeatandvegetables，smokinghot，andservedintheironcauldronitwasboiledin。Theyhaveapitcherofthinwine，andareverymerry；merrierthanthegentlemanwiththeredbeard，whoisplayingbilliardsinthelightroomontheleftoftheyard，whereshadows，withcuesintheirhands，andcigarsintheirmouths，crossandrecrossthewindow，constantly。StillthethinCurewalksupanddownalone，withhisbookandumbrella。Andtherehewalks，andtherethebilliard-ballsrattle，longafterwearefastasleep。
Weareastiratsixnextmorning。Itisadelightfulday，shamingyesterday"smuduponthecarriage，ifanythingcouldshameacarriage，inalandwherecarriagesarenevercleaned。Everybodyisbrisk；andaswefinishbreakfast，thehorsescomejinglingintotheyardfromthePost-house。Everythingtakenoutofthecarriageisputbackagain。ThebraveCourierannouncesthatallisready，afterwalkingintoeveryroom，andlookingallroundit，tobecertainthatnothingisleftbehind。Everybodygetsin。EverybodyconnectedwiththeHoteldel"Ecud"Orisagainenchanted。ThebraveCourierrunsintothehouseforaparcelcontainingcoldfowl，slicedham，bread，andbiscuits，forlunch；handsitintothecoach；andrunsbackagain。
Whathashegotinhishandnow?Morecucumbers?No。Alongstripofpaper。It"sthebill。
ThebraveCourierhastwobeltson，thismorning:onesupportingthepurse:another，amightygoodsortofleathernbottle，filledtothethroatwiththebestlightBordeauxwineinthehouse。Heneverpaysthebilltillthisbottleisfull。Thenhedisputesit。
Hedisputesitnow，violently。Heisstillthelandlord"sbrother，butbyanotherfatherormother。Heisnotsonearlyrelatedtohimashewaslastnight。Thelandlordscratcheshishead。ThebraveCourierpointstocertainfiguresinthebill，andintimatesthatiftheyremainthere，theHoteldel"Ecud"Oristhenceforthandforeveranhoteldel"Ecudecuivre。Thelandlordgoesintoalittlecounting-house。ThebraveCourierfollows，forcesthebillandapenintohishand，andtalksmorerapidlythanever。Thelandlordtakesthepen。TheCouriersmiles。Thelandlordmakesanalteration。TheCouriercutsajoke。Thelandlordisaffectionate，butnotweaklyso。Hebearsitlikeaman。Heshakeshandswithhisbravebrother，buthedon"thughim。Still，heloveshisbrother；forheknowsthathewillbereturningthatway，oneofthesefinedays，withanotherfamily，andheforeseesthathisheartwillyearntowardshimagain。ThebraveCouriertraversesallroundthecarriageonce，looksatthedrag，inspectsthewheels，jumpsup，givestheword，andawaywego！
Itismarketmorning。Themarketisheldinthelittlesquareoutsideinfrontofthecathedral。Itiscrowdedwithmenandwomen，inblue，inred，ingreen，inwhite；withcanvassedstalls；
andflutteringmerchandise。Thecountrypeoplearegroupedabout，withtheircleanbasketsbeforethem。Here，thelace-sellers；
there，thebutterandegg-sellers；there，thefruit-sellers；there，theshoe-makers。Thewholeplacelooksasifitwerethestageofsomegreattheatre，andthecurtainhadjustrunup，forapicturesqueballet。Andthereisthecathedraltoboot:scene-
like:allgrim，andswarthy，andmouldering，andcold:justsplashingthepavementinoneplacewithfaintpurpledrops，asthemorningsun，enteringbyalittlewindowontheeasternside，strugglesthroughsomestainedglasspanes，onthewestern。
Infiveminuteswehavepassedtheironcross，withalittleraggedkneeling-placeofturfbeforeit，intheoutskirtsofthetown；andareagainupontheroad。
CHAPTERII-LYONS，THERHONE，ANDTHEGOBLINOFAVIGNON
CHALONSisafairresting-place，inrightofitsgoodinnonthebankoftheriver，andthelittlesteamboats，gaywithgreenandredpaint，thatcomeandgouponit:whichmakeupapleasantandrefreshingscene，afterthedustyroads。But，unlessyouwouldliketodwellonanenormousplain，withjaggedrowsofirregularpoplarsonit，thatlookinthedistancelikesomanycombswithbrokenteeth:andunlessyouwouldliketopassyourlifewithoutthepossibilityofgoingup-hill，orgoingupanythingbutstairs:
youwouldhardlyapproveofChalonsasaplaceofresidence。
Youwouldprobablylikeitbetter，however，thanLyons:whichyoumayreach，ifyouwill，inoneofthebefore-mentionedsteamboats，ineighthours。
WhatacityLyonsis！Talkaboutpeoplefeeling，atcertainunluckytimes，asiftheyhadtumbledfromtheclouds！Hereisawholetownthatistumbled，anyhow，outofthesky；havingbeenfirstcaughtup，likeotherstonesthattumbledownfromthatregion，outoffensandbarrenplaces，dismaltobehold！Thetwogreatstreetsthroughwhichthetwogreatriversdash，andallthelittlestreetswhosenameisLegion，werescorching，blistering，andsweltering。Thehouses，highandvast，dirtytoexcess，rottenasoldcheeses，andasthicklypeopled。Allupthehillsthathemthecityin，thesehousesswarm；andthemitesinsidewerelollingoutofthewindows，anddryingtheirraggedclothesonpoles，andcrawlinginandoutatthedoors，andcomingouttopantandgaspuponthepavement，andcreepinginandoutamonghugepilesandbalesoffusty，musty，stiflinggoods；andliving，orrathernotdyingtilltheirtimeshouldcome，inanexhaustedreceiver。Everymanufacturingtown，meltedintoone，wouldhardlyconveyanimpressionofLyonsasitpresenteditselftome:foralltheundrained，unscavengeredqualitiesofaforeigntown，seemedgrafted，there，uponthenativemiseriesofamanufacturingone；
anditbearssuchfruitasIwouldgosomemilesoutofmywaytoavoidencounteringagain。
Inthecooloftheevening:orratherinthefadedheatoftheday:wewenttoseetheCathedral，wherediversoldwomen，andafewdogs，wereengagedincontemplation。Therewasnodifference，inpointofcleanliness，betweenitsstonepavementandthatofthestreets；andtherewasawaxsaint，inalittleboxlikeaberthaboardship，withaglassfronttoit，whomMadameTussaudwouldhavenothingtosayto，onanyterms，andwhichevenWestminsterAbbeymightbeashamedof。Ifyouwouldknowallaboutthearchitectureofthischurch，oranyother，itsdates，dimensions，endowments，andhistory，isitnotwritteninMr。Murray"sGuide-
Book，andmayyounotreaditthere，withthankstohim，asIdid！
Forthisreason，IshouldabstainfrommentioningthecuriousclockinLyonsCathedral，ifitwerenotforasmallmistakeImade，inconnectionwiththatpieceofmechanism。Thekeeperofthechurchwasveryanxiousitshouldbeshown；partlyforthehonouroftheestablishmentandthetown；andpartly，perhaps，becauseofhisderivingapercentagefromtheadditionalconsideration。Howeverthatmaybe，itwassetinmotion，andthereuponahostoflittledoorsflewopen，andinnumerablelittlefiguresstaggeredoutofthem，andjerkedthemselvesbackagain，withthatspecialunsteadinessofpurpose，andhitchinginthegait，whichusuallyattachestofiguresthataremovedbyclock-work。Meanwhile，theSacristanstoodexplainingthesewonders，andpointingthemout，severally，withawand。TherewasacentrepuppetoftheVirginMary；andclosetoher，asmallpigeon-hole，outofwhichanotherandaveryill-lookingpuppetmadeoneofthemostsuddenplungesI
eversawaccomplished:instantlyfloppingbackagainatsightofher，andbanginghislittledoorviolentlyafterhim。TakingthistobeemblematicofthevictoryoverSinandDeath，andnotatallunwillingtoshowthatIperfectlyunderstoodthesubject，inanticipationoftheshowman，Irashlysaid，"Aha！TheEvilSpirit。
Tobesure。Heisverysoondisposedof。""Pardon，Monsieur，"
saidtheSacristan，withapolitemotionofhishandtowardsthelittledoor，asifintroducingsomebody-"TheAngelGabriel！"
Soonafterdaybreaknextmorning，weweresteamingdowntheArrowyRhone，attherateoftwentymilesanhour，inaverydirtyvesselfullofmerchandise，andwithonlythreeorfourotherpassengersforourcompanions:amongwhom，themostremarkablewasasilly，old，meek-faced，garlic-eating，immeasurablypoliteChevalier，withadirtyscrapofredribbonhangingathisbutton-hole，asifhehadtiedittheretoremindhimselfofsomething；asTomNoddy，inthefarce，tiesknotsinhispocket-handkerchief。
Forthelasttwodays，wehadseengreatsullenhills，thefirstindicationsoftheAlps，loweringinthedistance。Now，wewererushingonbesidethem:sometimesclosebesidethem:sometimeswithaninterveningslope，coveredwithvineyards。Villagesandsmalltownshanginginmid-air，withgreatwoodsofolivesseenthroughthelightopentowersoftheirchurches，andcloudsmovingslowlyon，uponthesteepacclivitybehindthem；ruinedcastlesperchedoneveryeminence；andscatteredhousesinthecleftsandgulliesofthehills；madeitverybeautiful。Thegreatheightofthese，too，makingthebuildingslooksotiny，thattheyhadallthecharmofelegantmodels；theirexcessivewhiteness，ascontrastedwiththebrownrocks，orthesombre，deep，dull，heavygreenoftheolive-tree；andthepunysize，andlittleslowwalkoftheLilliputianmenandwomenonthebank；madeacharmingpicture。
Therewereferriesoutofnumber，too；bridges；thefamousPontd"Esprit，withIdon"tknowhowmanyarches；townswherememorablewinesaremade；Vallence，whereNapoleonstudied；andthenobleriver，bringingateverywindingturn，newbeautiesintoview。
Therelaybeforeus，thatsameafternoon，thebrokenbridgeofAvignon，andallthecitybakinginthesun；yetwithanunder-
done-pie-crust，battlementedwall，thatneverwillbebrown，thoughitbakeforcenturies。
Thegrapeswerehanginginclustersinthestreets，andthebrilliantOleanderwasinfullbloomeverywhere。Thestreetsareoldandverynarrow，buttolerablyclean，andshadedbyawningsstretchedfromhousetohouse。Brightstuffsandhandkerchiefs，curiosities，ancientframesofcarvedwood，oldchairs，ghostlytables，saints，virgins，angels，andstaringdaubsofportraits，beingexposedforsalebeneath，itwasveryquaintandlively。Allthiswasmuchsetoff，too，bytheglimpsesonecaught，througharustygatestandingajar，ofquietsleepycourt-yards，havingstatelyoldhouseswithin，assilentastombs。ItwasallverylikeoneofthedescriptionsintheArabianNights。Thethreeone-
eyedCalendersmighthaveknockedatanyoneofthosedoorstillthestreetrangagain，andtheporterwhopersistedinaskingquestions-themanwhohadthedeliciouspurchasesputintohisbasketinthemorning-mighthaveopeneditquitenaturally。
Afterbreakfastnextmorning，wesalliedforthtoseethelions。
Suchadeliciousbreezewasblowingin，fromthenorth，asmadethewalkdelightful:thoughthepavement-stones，andstonesofthewallsandhouses，werefartoohottohaveahandlaidonthemcomfortably。
Wewent，firstofall，uparockyheight，tothecathedral:whereMasswasperformingtoanauditoryverylikethatofLyons，namely，severaloldwomen，ababy，andaveryself-possesseddog，whohadmarkedoutforhimselfalittlecourseorplatformforexercise，beginningatthealtar-railsandendingatthedoor，upanddownwhichconstitutionalwalkhetrotted，duringtheservice，asmethodicallyandcalmly，asanyoldgentlemanoutofdoors。
Itisabareoldchurch，andthepaintingsintheroofaresadlydefacedbytimeanddampweather；butthesunwasshiningin，splendidly，throughtheredcurtainsofthewindows，andglitteringonthealtarfurniture；anditlookedasbrightandcheerfulasneedbe。
Goingapart，inthischurch，toseesomepaintingwhichwasbeingexecutedinfrescobyaFrenchartistandhispupil，IwasledtoobservemorecloselythanImightotherwisehavedone，agreatnumberofvotiveofferingswithwhichthewallsofthedifferentchapelswereprofuselyhung。Iwillnotsaydecorated，fortheywereveryroughlyandcomicallygotup；mostlikelybypoorsign-
painters，whoekeouttheirlivinginthatway。Theywerealllittlepictures:eachrepresentingsomesicknessorcalamityfromwhichthepersonplacingitthere，hadescaped，throughtheinterpositionofhisorherpatronsaint，oroftheMadonna；andI
mayrefertothemasgoodspecimensoftheclassgenerally。TheyareabundantinItaly。
Inagrotesquesquarenessofoutline，andimpossibilityofperspective，theyarenotunlikethewoodcutsinoldbooks；buttheywereoil-paintings，andtheartist，likethepainterofthePrimrosefamily，hadnotbeensparingofhiscolours。Inone，aladywashavingatoeamputated-anoperationwhichasaintlypersonagehadsailedintotheroom，uponacouch，tosuperintend。
Inanother，aladywaslyinginbed，tuckedupverytightandprim，andstaringwithmuchcomposureatatripod，withaslop-basinonit；theusualformofwashing-stand，andtheonlypieceoffurniture，besidesthebedstead，inherchamber。Onewouldneverhavesupposedhertobelabouringunderanycomplaint，beyondtheinconvenienceofbeingmiraculouslywideawake，ifthepainterhadnothitupontheideaofputtingallherfamilyontheirkneesinonecorner，withtheirlegsstickingoutbehindthemonthefloor，likeboot-trees。Abovewhom，theVirgin，onakindofbluedivan，promisedtorestorethepatient。Inanothercase，aladywasintheveryactofbeingrunover，immediatelyoutsidethecitywalls，byasortofpiano-fortevan。ButtheMadonnawasthereagain。
Whetherthesupernaturalappearancehadstartledthehorse(abaygriffin)，orwhetheritwasinvisibletohim，Idon"tknow；buthewasgallopingaway，dingdong，withoutthesmallestreverenceorcompunction。Oneverypicture"Exvoto"waspaintedinyellowcapitalsinthesky。
ThoughvotiveofferingswerenotunknowninPaganTemples，andareevidentlyamongthemanycompromisesmadebetweenthefalsereligionandthetrue，whenthetruewasinitsinfancy，Icouldwishthatalltheothercompromiseswereasharmless。GratitudeandDevotionareChristianqualities；andagrateful，humble，Christianspiritmaydictatetheobservance。
HardbythecathedralstandstheancientPalaceofthePopes，ofwhichoneportionisnowacommonjail，andanotheranoisybarrack:whilegloomysuitesofstateapartments，shutupanddeserted，mocktheirownoldstateandglory，liketheembalmedbodiesofkings。Butweneitherwentthere，toseestaterooms，norsoldiers"quarters，noracommonjail，thoughwedroppedsomemoneyintoaprisoners"boxoutside，whilsttheprisoners，themselves，lookedthroughtheironbars，highup，andwatcheduseagerly。WewenttoseetheruinsofthedreadfulroomsinwhichtheInquisitionusedtosit。
Alittle，old，swarthywoman，withapairofflashingblackeyes，-
proofthattheworldhadn"tconjureddownthedevilwithinher，thoughithadhadbetweensixtyandseventyyearstodoitin，-
cameoutoftheBarrackCabaret，ofwhichshewasthekeeper，withsomelargekeysinherhands，andmarshalledusthewaythatweshouldgo。Howshetoldus，ontheway，thatshewasaGovernmentOfficer(CONCIERGEDUPALAISAAPOSTOLIQUE)，andhadbeen，forI
don"tknowhowmanyyears；andhowshehadshownthesedungeonstoprinces；andhowshewasthebestofdungeondemonstrators；andhowshehadresidedinthepalacefromaninfant，-hadbeenbornthere，ifIrecollectright，-Ineedn"trelate。Butsuchafierce，little，rapid，sparkling，energeticshe-devilIneverbeheld。Shewasalightandflaming，allthetime。Heractionwasviolentintheextreme。Sheneverspoke，withoutstoppingexpresslyforthepurpose。Shestampedherfeet，clutchedusbythearms，flungherselfintoattitudes，hammeredagainstwallswithherkeys，formereemphasis:nowwhisperedasiftheInquisitionweretherestill:nowshriekedasifshewereontherackherself；
andhadamysterious，hag-likewaywithherforefinger，whenapproachingtheremainsofsomenewhorror-lookingbackandwalkingstealthily，andmakinghorriblegrimaces-thatmightalonehavequalifiedhertowalkupanddownasickman"scounterpane，totheexclusionofallotherfigures，throughawholefever。
Passingthroughthecourt-yard，amonggroupsofidlesoldiers，weturnedoffbyagate，whichthisShe-Goblinunlockedforouradmission，andlockedagainbehindus:andenteredanarrowcourt，renderednarrowerbyfallenstonesandheapsofrubbish；partofitchokingupthemouthofaruinedsubterraneanpassage，thatoncecommunicated(orissaidtohavedoneso)withanothercastleontheoppositebankoftheriver。Closetothiscourt-yardisadungeon-westoodwithinit，inanotherminute-inthedismaltowerDESOUBLIETTES，whereRienziwasimprisoned，fastenedbyanironchaintotheverywallthatstandstherenow，butshutoutfromtheskywhichnowlooksdownintoit。AfewstepsbroughtustotheCachots，inwhichtheprisonersoftheInquisitionwereconfinedforforty-eighthoursaftertheircapture，withoutfoodordrink，thattheirconstancymightbeshaken，evenbeforetheywereconfrontedwiththeirgloomyjudges。Thedayhasnotgotinthereyet。Theyarestillsmallcells，shutinbyfourunyielding，close，hardwalls；stillprofoundlydark；stillmassivelydooredandfastened，asofold。
Goblin，lookingbackasIhavedescribed，wentsoftlyon，intoavaultedchamber，nowusedasastore-room:oncethechapeloftheHolyOffice。Theplacewherethetribunalsat，wasplain。Theplatformmighthavebeenremovedbutyesterday。ConceivetheparableoftheGoodSamaritanhavingbeenpaintedonthewallofoneoftheseInquisitionchambers！Butitwas，andmaybetracedthereyet。
Highupinthejealouswall，arenicheswherethefalteringrepliesoftheaccusedwereheardandnoteddown。Manyofthemhadbeenbroughtoutoftheverycellwehadjustlookedinto，soawfully；
alongthesamestonepassage。Wehadtroddenintheirveryfootsteps。
Iamgazingroundme，withthehorrorthattheplaceinspires，whenGoblinclutchesmebythewrist，andlays，notherskinnyfinger，butthehandleofakey，uponherlip。Sheinvitesme，withajerk，tofollowher。Idoso。Sheleadsmeoutintoaroomadjoining-aruggedroom，withafunnel-shaped，contractingroof，openatthetop，tothebrightday。Iaskherwhatitis。Shefoldsherarms，leershideously，andstares。Iaskagain。Sheglancesround，toseethatallthelittlecompanyarethere；sitsdownuponamoundofstones；throwsupherarms，andyellsout，likeafiend，"LaSalledelaQuestion！"
TheChamberofTorture！Andtheroofwasmadeofthatshapetostiflethevictim"scries！OhGoblin，Goblin，letusthinkofthisawhile，insilence。Peace，Goblin！Sitwithyourshortarmscrossedonyourshortlegs，uponthatheapofstones，foronlyfiveminutes，andthenflameoutagain。
Minutes！SecondsarenotmarkeduponthePalaceclock，when，withhereyesflashingfire，Goblinisup，inthemiddleofthechamber，describing，withhersunburntarms，awheelofheavyblows。Thusitranround！criesGoblin。Mash，mash，mash！Anendlessroutineofheavyhammers。Mash，mash，mash！uponthesufferer"slimbs。
Seethestonetrough！saysGoblin。Forthewatertorture！Gurgle，swill，bloat，burst，fortheRedeemer"shonour！Suckthebloodyrag，deepdownintoyourunbelievingbody，Heretic，ateverybreathyoudraw！Andwhentheexecutionerplucksitout，reekingwiththesmallermysteriesofGod"sownImage，knowusforHischosenservants，truebelieversintheSermonontheMount，electdisciplesofHimwhoneverdidamiraclebuttoheal:whoneverstruckamanwithpalsy，blindness，deafness，dumbness，madness，anyoneafflictionofmankind；andneverstretchedHisblessedhandout，buttogivereliefandease！
See！criesGoblin。Therethefurnacewas。Theretheymadetheironsred-hot。Thoseholessupportedthesharpstake，onwhichthetorturedpersonshungpoised:danglingwiththeirwholeweightfromtheroof。"But；"andGoblinwhispersthis；"Monsieurhasheardofthistower?Yes?LetMonsieurlookdown，then！"
Acoldair，ladenwithanearthysmell，fallsuponthefaceofMonsieur；forshehasopened，whilespeaking，atrap-doorinthewall。Monsieurlooksin。Downwardtothebottom，upwardtothetop，ofasteep，dark，loftytower:verydismal，verydark，verycold。TheExecutioneroftheInquisition，saysGoblin，edginginherheadtolookdownalso，flungthosewhowerepastallfurthertorturing，downhere。"Butlook！doesMonsieurseetheblackstainsonthewall?"Aglance，overhisshoulder，atGoblin"skeeneye，showsMonsieur-andwouldwithouttheaidofthedirectingkey-wheretheyare。"Whatarethey?""Blood！"
InOctober，1791，whentheRevolutionwasatitsheighthere，sixtypersons:menandwomen("andpriests，"saysGoblin，"priests"):
weremurdered，andhurled，thedyingandthedead，intothisdreadfulpit，whereaquantityofquick-limewastumbleddownupontheirbodies。Thoseghastlytokensofthemassacreweresoonnomore；butwhileonestoneofthestrongbuildinginwhichthedeedwasdone，remainsuponanother，theretheywilllieinthememoriesofmen，asplaintoseeasthesplashingoftheirblooduponthewallisnow。
WasitaportionofthegreatschemeofRetribution，thatthecrueldeedshouldbecommittedinthisplace！Thatapartoftheatrocitiesandmonstrousinstitutions，whichhadbeen，forscoresofyears，atwork，tochangemen"snature，shouldinitslastservice，temptthemwiththereadymeansofgratifyingtheirfuriousandbeastlyrage！Shouldenablethemtoshowthemselves，intheheightoftheirfrenzy，noworsethanagreat，solemn，legalestablishment，intheheightofitspower！Noworse！Muchbetter。
TheyusedtheToweroftheForgotten，inthenameofLiberty-
theirliberty；anearth-borncreature，nursedintheblackmudoftheBastilemoatsanddungeons，andnecessarilybetrayingmanyevidencesofitsunwholesomebringing-up-buttheInquisitionuseditinthenameofHeaven。
Goblin"sfingerislifted；andshestealsoutagain，intotheChapeloftheHolyOffice。Shestopsatacertainpartoftheflooring。Hergreateffectisathand。Shewaitsfortherest。
ShedartsatthebraveCourier，whoisexplainingsomething；hitshimasoundingraponthehatwiththelargestkey；andbidshimbesilent。Sheassemblesusall，roundalittletrap-doorinthefloor，asroundagrave。
"Voila！"shedartsdownatthering，andflingsthedooropenwithacrash，inhergoblinenergy，thoughitisnolightweight。
"Voilalesoubliettes！Voilalesoubliettes！Subterranean！
Frightful！Black！Terrible！Deadly！Lesoubliettesdel"Inquisition！"
Mybloodrancold，asIlookedfromGoblin，downintothevaults，wheretheseforgottencreatures，withrecollectionsoftheworldoutside:ofwives，friends，children，brothers:starvedtodeath，andmadethestonesringwiththeirunavailinggroans。But，thethrillIfeltonseeingtheaccursedwallbelow，decayedandbrokenthrough，andthesunshininginthroughitsgapingwounds，waslikeasenseofvictoryandtriumph。Ifeltexaltedwiththeprouddelightoflivinginthesedegeneratetimes，toseeit。AsifI
weretheheroofsomehighachievement！Thelightinthedolefulvaultswastypicalofthelightthathasstreamedin，onallpersecutioninGod"sname，butwhichisnotyetatitsnoon！Itcannotlookmorelovelytoablindmannewlyrestoredtosight，thantoatravellerwhoseesit，calmlyandmajestically，treadingdownthedarknessofthatInfernalWell。
CHAPTERIII-AVIGNONTOGENOA
GOBLIN，havingshownLESOUBLIETTES，feltthathergreatCOUPwasstruck。Sheletthedoorfallwithacrash，andstooduponitwithherarmsa-kimbo，sniffingprodigiously。
Whenwelefttheplace，Iaccompaniedherintoherhouse，undertheoutergatewayofthefortress，tobuyalittlehistoryofthebuilding。Hercabaret，adark，lowroom，lightedbysmallwindows，sunkinthethickwall-inthesoftenedlight，andwithitsforge-
likechimney；itslittlecounterbythedoor，withbottles，jars，andglassesonit；itshouseholdimplementsandscrapsofdressagainstthewall；andasober-lookingwoman(shemusthaveacongeniallifeofit，withGoblin，)knittingatthedoor-lookedexactlylikeapicturebyOSTADE。
Iwalkedroundthebuildingontheoutside，inasortofdream，andyetwiththedelightfulsenseofhavingawakenedfromit，ofwhichthelight，downinthevaults，hadgivenmetheassurance。Theimmensethicknessandgiddyheightofthewalls，theenormousstrengthofthemassivetowers，thegreatextentofthebuilding，itsgiganticproportions，frowningaspect，andbarbarousirregularity，awakenaweandwonder。Therecollectionofitsoppositeolduses:animpregnablefortress，aluxuriouspalace，ahorribleprison，aplaceoftorture，thecourtoftheInquisition:
atoneandthesametime，ahouseoffeasting，fighting，religion，andblood:givestoeverystoneinitshugeformafearfulinterest，andimpartsnewmeaningtoitsincongruities。Icouldthinkoflittle，however，then，orlongafterwards，butthesuninthedungeons。Thepalacecomingdowntobethelounging-placeofnoisysoldiers，andbeingforcedtoechotheirroughtalk，andcommonoaths，andtohavetheirgarmentsflutteringfromitsdirtywindows，wassomereductionofitsstate，andsomethingtorejoiceat；butthedayinitscells，andtheskyfortheroofofitschambersofcruelty-thatwasitsdesolationanddefeat！IfIhadseenitinablazefromditchtorampart，Ishouldhavefeltthatnotthatlight，norallthelightinallthefirethatburns，couldwasteit，likethesunbeamsinitssecretcouncil-chamber，anditsprisons。
BeforeIquitthisPalaceofthePopes，letmetranslatefromthelittlehistoryImentionedjustnow，ashortanecdote，quiteappropriatetoitself，connectedwithitsadventures。
"Anancienttraditionrelates，thatin1441，anephewofPierredeLude，thePope"slegate，seriouslyinsultedsomedistinguishedladiesofAvignon，whoserelations，inrevenge，seizedtheyoungman，andhorriblymutilatedhim。ForseveralyearsthelegatekeptHISrevengewithinhisownbreast，buthewasnotthelessresolveduponitsgratificationatlast。Heevenmade，inthefulnessoftime，advancestowardsacompletereconciliation；andwhentheirapparentsincerityhadprevailed，heinvitedtoasplendidbanquet，inthispalace，certainfamilies，wholefamilies，whomhesoughttoexterminate。Theutmostgaietyanimatedtherepast；butthemeasuresofthelegatewerewelltaken。Whenthedessertwasontheboard，aSwisspresentedhimself，withtheannouncementthatastrangeambassadorsolicitedanextraordinaryaudience。Thelegate，excusinghimself，forthemoment，tohisguests，retired，followedbyhisofficers。Withinafewminutesafterwards，fivehundredpersonswerereducedtoashes:thewholeofthatwingofthebuildinghavingbeenblownintotheairwithaterribleexplosion！"
Afterseeingthechurches(Iwillnottroubleyouwithchurchesjustnow)，weleftAvignonthatafternoon。Theheatbeingverygreat，theroadsoutsidethewallswerestrewnwithpeoplefastasleepineverylittleslipofshade，andwithlazygroups，halfasleepandhalfawake，whowerewaitinguntilthesunshouldbelowenoughtoadmitoftheirplayingbowlsamongtheburnt-uptrees，andonthedustyroad。Theharvestherewasalreadygatheredin，andmulesandhorsesweretreadingoutthecorninthefields。Wecame，atdusk，uponawildandhillycountry，oncefamousforbrigands；andtravelledslowlyupasteepascent。Sowewenton，untilelevenatnight，whenwehaltedatthetownofAix(withintwostagesofMarseilles)tosleep。
Thehotel，withalltheblindsandshuttersclosedtokeepthelightandheatout，wascomfortableandairynextmorning，andthetownwasveryclean；butsohot，andsointenselylight，thatwhenIwalkedoutatnoonitwaslikecomingsuddenlyfromthedarkenedroomintocrispbluefire。Theairwassoveryclear，thatdistanthillsandrockypointsappearedwithinanhour"swalk；whilethetownimmediatelyathand-withakindofbluewindbetweenmeandit-seemedtobewhitehot，andtobethrowingoffafieryairfromthesurface。
Weleftthistowntowardsevening，andtooktheroadtoMarseilles。
Adustyroaditwas；thehousesshutupclose；andthevinespowderedwhite。Atnearlyallthecottagedoors，womenwerepeelingandslicingonionsintoearthenbowlsforsupper。SotheyhadbeendoinglastnightallthewayfromAvignon。Wepassedoneortwoshadydarkchateaux，surroundedbytrees，andembellishedwithcoolbasinsofwater:whichwerethemorerefreshingtobehold，fromthegreatscarcityofsuchresidencesontheroadwehadtravelled。AsweapproachedMarseilles，theroadbegantobecoveredwithholidaypeople。Outsidethepublic-houseswerepartiessmoking，drinking，playingdraughtsandcards，and(once)
dancing。Butdust，dust，dust，everywhere。Wewenton，throughalong，straggling，dirtysuburb，throngedwithpeople；havingonourleftadrearyslopeofland，onwhichthecountry-housesoftheMarseillesmerchants，alwaysstaringwhite，arejumbledandheapedwithouttheslightestorder:backs，fronts，sides，andgablestowardsallpointsofthecompass；until，atlast，weenteredthetown。
Iwasthere，twiceorthriceafterwards，infairweatherandfoul；
andIamafraidthereisnodoubtthatitisadirtyanddisagreeableplace。Buttheprospect，fromthefortifiedheights，ofthebeautifulMediterranean，withitslovelyrocksandislands，ismostdelightful。Theseheightsareadesirableretreat，forlesspicturesquereasons-asanescapefromacompoundofvilesmellsperpetuallyarisingfromagreatharbourfullofstagnantwater，andbefouledbytherefuseofinnumerableshipswithallsortsofcargoes:which，inhotweather，isdreadfulinthelastdegree。
Therewereforeignsailors，ofallnations，inthestreets；withredshirts，blueshirts，buffshirts，tawnyshirts，andshirtsoforangecolour；withredcaps，bluecaps，greencaps，greatbeards，andnobeards；inTurkishturbans，glazedEnglishhats，andNeapolitanhead-dresses。Therewerethetownspeoplesittinginclustersonthepavement，orairingthemselvesonthetopsoftheirhouses，orwalkingupanddowntheclosestandleastairyofBoulevards；andtherewerecrowdsoffierce-lookingpeopleofthelowersort，blockinguptheway，constantly。Intheveryheartofallthisstiranduproar，wasthecommonmadhouse；alow，contracted，miserablebuilding，lookingstraightuponthestreet，withoutthesmallestscreenorcourt-yard；wherechatteringmad-menandmad-womenwerepeepingout，throughrustybars，atthestaringfacesbelow，whilethesun，dartingfiercelyaslantintotheirlittlecells，seemedtodryuptheirbrains，andworrythem，asiftheywerebaitedbyapackofdogs。
WewereprettywellaccommodatedattheHotelduParadis，situatedinanarrowstreetofveryhighhouses，withahairdresser"sshopopposite，exhibitinginoneofitswindowstwofull-lengthwaxenladies，twirlingroundandround:whichsoenchantedthehairdresserhimself，thatheandhisfamilysatinarm-chairs，andincoolundresses，onthepavementoutside，enjoyingthegratificationofthepassers-by，withlazydignity。Thefamilyhadretiredtorestwhenwewenttobed，atmidnight；butthehairdresser(acorpulentman，indrabslippers)wasstillsittingthere，withhislegsstretchedoutbeforehim，andevidentlycouldn"tbeartohavetheshuttersputup。
Nextdaywewentdowntotheharbour，wherethesailorsofallnationsweredischargingandtakingincargoesofallkinds:
fruits，wines，oils，silks，stuffs，velvets，andeverymannerofmerchandise。Takingoneofagreatnumberoflivelylittleboatswithgay-stripedawnings，werowedaway，underthesternsofgreatships，undertow-ropesandcables，againstandamongotherboats，andverymuchtoonearthesidesofvesselsthatwerefaintwithoranges，totheMARIEANTOINETTE，ahandsomesteamerboundforGenoa，lyingnearthemouthoftheharbour。By-and-by，thecarriage，thatunwieldy"triflefromthePantechnicon，"onaflatbarge，bumpingagainsteverything，andgivingoccasionforaprodigiousquantityofoathsandgrimaces，camestupidlyalongside；
andbyfiveo"clockweweresteamingoutintheopensea。Thevesselwasbeautifullyclean；themealswereservedunderanawningondeck；thenightwascalmandclear；thequietbeautyoftheseaandskyunspeakable。
WewereoffNice，earlynextmorning，andcoastedalong，withinafewmilesoftheCorniceroad(ofwhichmoreinitsplace)nearlyallday。WecouldseeGenoabeforethree；andwatchingitasitgraduallydevelopeditssplendidamphitheatre，terracerisingaboveterrace，gardenabovegarden，palaceabovepalace，heightuponheight，wasampleoccupationforus，tillweranintothestatelyharbour。Havingbeendulyastonished，here，bythesightofafewCappucinimonks，whowerewatchingthefair-weighingofsomewooduponthewharf，wedroveofftoAlbaro，twomilesdistant，wherewehadengagedahouse。
Thewaylaythroughthemainstreets，butnotthroughtheStradaNuova，ortheStradaBalbi，whicharethefamousstreetsofpalaces。Ineverinmylifewassodismayed！Thewonderfulnoveltyofeverything，theunusualsmells，theunaccountablefilth(thoughitisreckonedthecleanestofItaliantowns)，thedisorderlyjumblingofdirtyhouses，oneupontheroofofanother；
thepassagesmoresqualidandmoreclosethananyinSt。Giles"soroldParis；inandoutofwhich，notvagabonds，butwell-dressedwomen，withwhiteveilsandgreatfans，werepassingandrepassing；
theperfectabsenceofresemblanceinanydwelling-house，orshop，orwall，orpost，orpillar，toanythingonehadeverseenbefore；
andthedishearteningdirt，discomfort，anddecay；perfectlyconfoundedme。Ifellintoadismalreverie。Iamconsciousofafeverishandbewilderedvisionofsaintsandvirgins"shrinesatthestreetcorners-ofgreatnumbersoffriars，monks，andsoldiers-ofvastredcurtains，wavinginthedoorwaysofthechurches-ofalwaysgoinguphill，andyetseeingeveryotherstreetandpassagegoinghigherup-offruit-stalls，withfreshlemonsandorangeshangingingarlandsmadeofvine-leaves-ofaguard-house，andadrawbridge-andsomegateways-andvendorsoficedwater，sittingwithlittletraysuponthemarginofthekennel-andthisisalltheconsciousnessIhad，untilIwassetdowninarank，dull，weedycourt-yard，attachedtoakindofpinkjail；
andwastoldIlivedthere。
Ilittlethought，thatday，thatIshouldevercometohaveanattachmentfortheverystonesinthestreetsofGenoa，andtolookbackuponthecitywithaffectionasconnectedwithmanyhoursofhappinessandquiet！Butthesearemyfirstimpressionshonestlysetdown；andhowtheychanged，Iwillsetdowntoo。Atpresent，letusbreatheafterthislong-windedjourney。
CHAPTERIV-GENOAANDITSNEIGHBOURHOOD
THEfirstimpressionsofsuchaplaceasALBARO，thesuburbofGenoa，whereIamnow，asmyAmericanfriendswouldsay，"located，"
canhardlyfail，Ishouldimagine，tobemournfulanddisappointing。Itrequiresalittletimeandusetoovercomethefeelingofdepressionconsequent，atfirst，onsomuchruinandneglect。Novelty，pleasanttomostpeople，isparticularlydelightful，Ithink，tome。IamnoteasilydispiritedwhenIhavethemeansofpursuingmyownfanciesandoccupations；andIbelieveIhavesomenaturalaptitudeforaccommodatingmyselftocircumstances。But，asyet，Istrollabouthere，inalltheholesandcornersoftheneighbourhood，inaperpetualstateofforlornsurprise；andreturningtomyvilla:theVillaBagnerello(itsoundsromantic，butSignorBagnerelloisabutcherhardby):havesufficientoccupationinponderingovermynewexperiences，andcomparingthem，verymuchtomyownamusement，withmyexpectations，untilIwanderoutagain。
TheVillaBagnerello:orthePinkJail，afarmoreexpressivenameforthemansion:isinoneofthemostsplendidsituationsimaginable。ThenoblebayofGenoa，withthedeepblueMediterranean，liesstretchedoutnearathand；monstrousolddesolatehousesandpalacesaredottedallabout；loftyhills，withtheirtopsoftenhiddenintheclouds，andwithstrongfortsperchedhighupontheircraggysides，arecloseupontheleft；andinfront，stretchingfromthewallsofthehouse，downtoaruinedchapelwhichstandsupontheboldandpicturesquerocksonthesea-
shore，aregreenvineyards，whereyoumaywanderalldaylonginpartialshade，throughinterminablevistasofgrapes，trainedonaroughtrellis-workacrossthenarrowpaths。
Thissequesteredspotisapproachedbylanessoverynarrow，thatwhenwearrivedattheCustom-house，wefoundthepeopleherehadTAKENTHEMEASUREofthenarrowestamongthem，andwerewaitingtoapplyittothecarriage；whichceremonywasgravelyperformedinthestreet，whileweallstoodbyinbreathlesssuspense。Itwasfoundtobeaverytightfit，butjustapossibility，andnomore-
asIamremindedeveryday，bythesightofvariouslargeholeswhichitpunchedinthewallsoneithersideasitcamealong。Wearemorefortunate，Iamtold，thananoldlady，whotookahouseinthesepartsnotlongago，andwhostuckfastinHERcarriageinalane；andasitwasimpossibletoopenoneofthedoors，shewasobligedtosubmittotheindignityofbeinghauledthroughoneofthelittlefrontwindows，likeaharlequin。
Whenyouhavegotthroughthesenarrowlanes，youcometoanarchway，imperfectlystoppedupbyarustyoldgate-mygate。Therustyoldgatehasabelltocorrespond，whichyouringaslongasyoulike，andwhichnobodyanswers，asithasnoconnectionwhateverwiththehouse。Butthereisarustyoldknocker，too-
veryloose，sothatitslidesroundwhenyoutouchit-andifyoulearnthetrickofit，andknocklongenough，somebodycomes。ThebraveCouriercomes，andgivesyouadmittance。Youwalkintoaseedylittlegarden，allwildandweedy，fromwhichthevineyardopens；crossit，enterasquarehalllikeacellar，walkupacrackedmarblestaircase，andpassintoamostenormousroomwithavaultedroofandwhitewashedwalls:notunlikeagreatMethodistchapel。ThisistheSALA。Ithasfivewindowsandfivedoors，andisdecoratedwithpictureswhichwouldgladdentheheartofoneofthosepicture-cleanersinLondonwhohangup，asasign，apicturedivided，likedeathandthelady，atthetopoftheoldballad:
whichalwaysleavesyouinastateofuncertaintywhethertheingeniousprofessorhascleanedonehalf，ordirtiedtheother。
ThefurnitureofthisSALAisasortofredbrocade。Allthechairsareimmovable，andthesofaweighsseveraltons。
Onthesamefloor，andopeningoutofthissamechamber，aredining-room，drawing-room，anddiversbed-rooms:eachwithamultiplicityofdoorsandwindows。Up-stairsarediversothergauntchambers，andakitchen；anddown-stairsisanotherkitchen，which，withallsortsofstrangecontrivancesforburningcharcoal，lookslikeanalchemicallaboratory。Therearealsosomehalf-
dozensmallsitting-rooms，wheretheservantsinthishotJuly，mayescapefromtheheatofthefire，andwherethebraveCourierplaysallsortsofmusicalinstrumentsofhisownmanufacture，alltheeveninglong。Amightyold，wandering，ghostly，echoing，grim，barehouseitis，aseverIbeheldorthoughtof。
Thereisalittlevine-coveredterrace，openingfromthedrawing-
room；andunderthisterrace，andformingonesideofthelittlegarden，iswhatusedtobethestable。Itisnowacow-house，andhasthreecowsinit，sothatwegetnewmilkbythebucketful。
Thereisnopasturagenear，andtheynevergoout，butareconstantlylyingdown，andsurfeitingthemselveswithvine-leaves-
perfectItaliancowsenjoyingtheDOLCEFAR"NIENTEalldaylong。
Theyarepresidedover，andsleptwith，byanoldmannamedAntonio，andhisson；twoburnt-siennanativeswithnakedlegsandfeet，whowear，each，ashirt，apairoftrousers，andaredsash，witharelic，orsomesacredcharmlikethebonbonoffatwelfth-
cake，hangingroundtheneck。TheoldmanisveryanxioustoconvertmetotheCatholicfaith，andexhortsmefrequently。Wesituponastonebythedoor，sometimesintheevening，likeRobinsonCrusoeandFridayreversed；andhegenerallyrelates，towardsmyconversion，anabridgmentoftheHistoryofSaintPeter-chiefly，Ibelieve，fromtheunspeakabledelighthehasinhisimitationofthecock。
Theview，asIhavesaid，ischarming；butinthedayyoumustkeepthelattice-blindscloseshut，orthesunwoulddriveyoumad；andwhenthesungoesdownyoumustshutupallthewindows，orthemosquitoeswouldtemptyoutocommitsuicide。Soatthistimeoftheyear，youdon"tseemuchoftheprospectwithindoors。Asfortheflies，youdon"tmindthem。Northefleas，whosesizeisprodigious，andwhosenameisLegion，andwhopopulatethecoach-
housetothatextentthatIdailyexpecttoseethecarriagegoingoffbodily，drawnbymyriadsofindustriousfleasinharness。Theratsarekeptaway，quitecomfortably，byscoresofleancats，whoroamaboutthegardenforthatpurpose。Thelizards，ofcourse，nobodycaresfor；theyplayinthesun，anddon"tbite。Thelittlescorpionsaremerelycurious。Thebeetlesareratherlate，andhavenotappearedyet。Thefrogsarecompany。Thereisapreserveoftheminthegroundsofthenextvilla；andafternightfall，onewouldthinkthatscoresuponscoresofwomeninpattensweregoingupanddownawetstonepavementwithoutamoment"scessation。
Thatisexactlythenoisetheymake。
Theruinedchapel，onthepicturesqueandbeautifulseashore，wasdedicated，onceuponatime，toSaintJohntheBaptist。IbelievethereisalegendthatSaintJohn"sboneswerereceivedthere，withvarioussolemnities，whentheywerefirstbroughttoGenoa；forGenoapossessesthemtothisday。Whenthereisanyuncommontempestatsea，theyarebroughtoutandexhibitedtotheragingweather，whichtheyneverfailtocalm。InconsequenceofthisconnectionofSaintJohnwiththecity，greatnumbersofthecommonpeoplearechristenedGiovanniBaptista，whichlatternameispronouncedintheGenoesepatois"Batcheetcha，"likeasneeze。ToheareverybodycallingeverybodyelseBatcheetcha，onaSunday，orfesta-day，whentherearecrowdsinthestreets，isnotalittlesingularandamusingtoastranger。
Thenarrowlaneshavegreatvillasopeningintothem，whosewalls(outsidewalls，Imean)areprofuselypaintedwithallsortsofsubjects，grimandholy。Buttimeandthesea-airhavenearlyobliteratedthem；andtheylookliketheentrancetoVauxhallGardensonasunnyday。Thecourt-yardsofthesehousesareovergrownwithgrassandweeds；allsortsofhideouspatchescoverthebasesofthestatues，asiftheywereafflictedwithacutaneousdisorder；theoutergatesarerusty；andtheironbarsoutsidethelowerwindowsarealltumblingdown。Firewoodiskeptinhallswherecostlytreasuresmightbeheapedup，mountainshigh；
waterfallsaredryandchoked；fountains，toodulltoplay，andtoolazytowork，havejustenoughrecollectionoftheiridentity，intheirsleep，tomaketheneighbourhooddamp；andthesiroccowindisoftenblowingoverallthesethingsfordaystogether，likeagiganticovenoutforaholiday。
Notlongago，therewasafesta-day，inhonouroftheVIRGIN"S
MOTHER，whentheyoungmenoftheneighbourhood，havingworngreenwreathsofthevineinsomeprocessionorother，bathedinthem，byscores。Itlookedveryoddandpretty。ThoughIamboundtoconfess(notknowingofthefestaatthattime)，thatIthought，andwasquitesatisfied，theyworethemashorsesdo-tokeepthefliesoff。
Soonafterwards，therewasanotherfesta-day，inhonourofSt。
Nazaro。OneoftheAlbaroyoungmenbroughttwolargebouquetssoonafterbreakfast，andcomingup-stairsintothegreatSALA，presentedthemhimself。ThiswasapolitewayofbeggingforacontributiontowardstheexpensesofsomemusicintheSaint"shonour，sowegavehimwhateveritmayhavebeen，andhismessengerdeparted:wellsatisfied。Atsixo"clockintheeveningwewenttothechurch-closeathand-averygaudyplace，hungalloverwithfestoonsandbrightdraperies，andfilled，fromthealtartothemaindoor，withwomen，allseated。Theywearnobonnetshere，simplyalongwhiteveil-the"mezzero；"anditwasthemostgauzy，ethereal-lookingaudienceIeversaw。Theyoungwomenarenotgenerallypretty，buttheywalkremarkablywell，andintheirpersonalcarriageandthemanagementoftheirveils，displaymuchinnategraceandelegance。Thereweresomemenpresent:notverymany:andafewofthesewerekneelingabouttheaisles，whileeverybodyelsetumbledoverthem。Innumerabletaperswereburninginthechurch；thebitsofsilverandtinaboutthesaints(especiallyintheVirgin"snecklace)sparkledbrilliantly；thepriestswereseatedaboutthechiefaltar；theorganplayedaway，lustily，andafullbanddidthelike；whileaconductor，inalittlegalleryoppositetotheband，hammeredawayonthedeskbeforehim，withascroll；andatenor，withoutanyvoice，sang。
Thebandplayedoneway，theorganplayedanother，thesingerwentathird，andtheunfortunateconductorbangedandbanged，andflourishedhisscrollonsomeprincipleofhisown:apparentlywellsatisfiedwiththewholeperformance。Ineverdidhearsuchadiscordantdin。Theheatwasintenseallthetime。
Themen，inredcaps，andwithloosecoatshangingontheirshoulders(theyneverputthemon)，wereplayingbowls，andbuyingsweetmeats，immediatelyoutsidethechurch。Whenhalf-a-dozenofthemfinishedagame，theycameintotheaisle，crossedthemselveswiththeholywater，kneltononekneeforaninstant，andwalkedoffagaintoplayanothergameatbowls。Theyareremarkablyexpertatthisdiversion，andwillplayinthestonylanesandstreets，andonthemostunevenanddisastrousgroundforsuchapurpose，withasmuchnicetyasonabilliard-table。ButthemostfavouritegameisthenationaloneofMora，whichtheypursuewithsurprisingardour，andatwhichtheywillstakeeverythingtheypossess。Itisadestructivekindofgambling，requiringnoaccessoriesbutthetenfingers，whicharealways-Iintendnopun-athand。Twomenplaytogether。Onecallsanumber-saytheextremeone，ten。Hemarkswhatportionofithepleasesbythrowingoutthree，orfour，orfivefingers；andhisadversaryhas，inthesameinstant，athazard，andwithoutseeinghishand，tothrowoutasmanyfingers，aswillmaketheexactbalance。
Theireyesandhandsbecomesousedtothis，andactwithsuchastonishingrapidity，thatanuninitiatedbystanderwouldfinditverydifficult，ifnotimpossible，tofollowtheprogressofthegame。Theinitiated，however，ofwhomthereisalwaysaneagergrouplookingon，devouritwiththemostintenseavidity；andastheyarealwaysreadytochampiononesideortheotherincaseofadispute，andarefrequentlydividedintheirpartisanship，itisoftenaverynoisyproceeding。Itisneverthequietestgameintheworld；forthenumbersarealwayscalledinaloudsharpvoice，andfollowascloseuponeachotherastheycanbecounted。Onaholidayevening，standingatawindow，orwalkinginagarden，orpassingthroughthestreets，orsaunteringinanyquietplaceaboutthetown，youwillhearthisgameinprogressinascoreofwine-
shopsatonce；andlookingoveranyvineyardwalk，orturningalmostanycorner，willcomeuponaknotofplayersinfullcry。
Itisobservablethatmostmenhaveapropensitytothrowoutsomeparticularnumberoftenerthananother；andthevigilancewithwhichtwosharp-eyedplayerswillmutuallyendeavourtodetectthisweakness，andadapttheirgametoit，isverycuriousandentertaining。Theeffectisgreatlyheightenedbytheuniversalsuddennessandvehemenceofgesture；twomenplayingforhalfafarthingwithanintensityasall-absorbingasifthestakewerelife。
HardbyhereisalargePalazzo，formerlybelongingtosomememberoftheBrignolefamily，butjustnowhiredbyaschoolofJesuitsfortheirsummerquarters。Iwalkedintoitsdismantledprecinctstheothereveningaboutsunset，andcouldn"thelppacingupanddownforalittletime，drowsilytakingintheaspectoftheplace:
whichisrepeatedhereaboutsinalldirections。