第6章

Ahollow-cheekedandscowlingpeopletheyare！Allbeggars；butthat"snothing。Lookatthemastheygatherround。Some，aretooindolenttocomedown-stairs，oraretoowiselymistrustfulofthestairs，perhaps，toventure:sostretchouttheirleanhandsfromupperwindows，andhowl；others，comeflockingaboutus，fightingandjostlingoneanother，anddemanding，incessantly，charityfortheloveofGod，charityfortheloveoftheBlessedVirgin，charityfortheloveofalltheSaints。Agroupofmiserablechildren，almostnaked，screamingforththesamepetition，discoverthattheycanseethemselvesreflectedinthevarnishofthecarriage，andbegintodanceandmakegrimaces，thattheymayhavethepleasureofseeingtheiranticsrepeatedinthismirror。A

crippledidiot，intheactofstrikingoneofthemwhodrownshisclamorousdemandforcharity，observeshisangrycounterpartinthepanel，stopsshort，andthrustingouthistongue，beginstowaghisheadandchatter。Theshrillcryraisedatthis，awakenshalf-a-

dozenwildcreatureswrappedinfrowsybrowncloaks，whoarelyingonthechurch-stepswithpotsandpansforsale。These，scramblingup，approach，andbegdefiantly。"Iamhungry。Givemesomething。

Listentome，Signor。Iamhungry！"Then，aghastlyoldwoman，fearfulofbeingtoolate，comeshobblingdownthestreet，stretchingoutonehand，andscratchingherselfallthewaywiththeother，andscreaming，longbeforeshecanbeheard，"Charity，charity！I"llgoandprayforyoudirectly，beautifullady，ifyou"llgivemecharity！"Lastly，themembersofabrotherhoodforburyingthedead:hideouslymasked，andattiredinshabbyblackrobes，whiteattheskirts，withthesplashesofmanymuddywinters:escortedbyadirtypriest，andacongenialcross-bearer:

comehurryingpast。Surroundedbythismotleyconcourse，wemoveoutofFondi:badbrighteyesglaringatus，outofthedarknessofeverycrazytenement，likeglisteningfragmentsofitsfilthandputrefaction。

Anoblemountain-pass，withtheruinsofafortonastrongeminence，traditionallycalledtheFortofFraDiavolo；theoldtownofItri，likeadeviceinpastry，builtup，almostperpendicularly，onahill，andapproachedbylongsteepflightsofsteps；beautifulMoladiGaeta，whosewines，likethoseofAlbano，havedegeneratedsincethedaysofHorace，orhistasteforwinewasbad:whichisnotlikelyofonewhoenjoyeditsomuch，andextolleditsowell；anothernightupontheroadatSt。Agatha；arestnextdayatCapua，whichispicturesque，buthardlysoseductivetoatravellernow，asthesoldiersofPraetorianRomewerewonttofindtheancientcityofthatname；aflatroadamongvinesfestoonedandloopedfromtreetotree；andMountVesuviuscloseathandatlast！-itsconeandsummitwhitenedwithsnow；

anditssmokehangingoverit，intheheavyatmosphereoftheday，likeadensecloud。Sowego，rattlingdownhill，intoNaples。

Afuneraliscomingupthestreet，towardsus。Thebody，onanopenbier，borneonakindofpalanquin，coveredwithagayclothofcrimsonandgold。Themourners，inwhitegownsandmasks。Iftherebedeathabroad，lifeiswellrepresentedtoo，forallNapleswouldseemtobeoutofdoors，andtearingtoandfroincarriages。

Someofthese，thecommonVetturinovehicles，aredrawnbythreehorsesabreast，deckedwithsmarttrappingsandgreatabundanceofbrazenornament，andalwaysgoingveryfast。Notthattheirloadsarelight；forthesmallestofthemhasatleastsixpeopleinside，fourinfront，fourorfivemorehangingonbehind，andtwoorthreemore，inanetorbagbelowtheaxle-tree，wheretheyliehalf-suffocatedwithmudanddust。ExhibitorsofPunch，buffosingerswithguitars，recitersofpoetry，recitersofstories，arowofcheapexhibitionswithclownsandshowmen，drums，andtrumpets，paintedclothsrepresentingthewonderswithin，andadmiringcrowdsassembledwithout，assistthewhirlandbustle。

Raggedlazzaronilieasleepindoorways，archways，andkennels；thegentry，gailydressed，aredashingupanddownincarriagesontheChiaji，orwalkinginthePublicGardens；andquietletter-writers，perchedbehindtheirlittledesksandinkstandsunderthePorticooftheGreatTheatreofSanCarlo，inthepublicstreet，arewaitingforclients。

Hereisagalley-slaveinchains，whowantsaletterwrittentoafriend。Heapproachesaclerkly-lookingman，sittingunderthecornerarch，andmakeshisbargain。Hehasobtainedpermissionofthesentinelwhoguardshim:whostandsnear，leaningagainstthewallandcrackingnuts。Thegalley-slavedictatesintheearoftheletter-writer，whathedesirestosay；andashecan"treadwriting，looksintentlyinhisface，toreadtherewhetherhesetsdownfaithfullywhatheistold。Afteratime，thegalley-slavebecomesdiscursive-incoherent。Thesecretarypausesandrubshischin。Thegalley-slaveisvolubleandenergetic。Thesecretary，atlength，catchestheidea，andwiththeairofamanwhoknowshowtowordit，setsitdown；stopping，nowandthen，toglancebackathistextadmiringly。Thegalley-slaveissilent。Thesoldierstoicallycrackshisnuts。Isthereanythingmoretosay?

inquirestheletter-writer。Nomore。Thenlisten，friendofmine。

Hereadsitthrough。Thegalley-slaveisquiteenchanted。Itisfolded，andaddressed，andgiventohim，andhepaysthefee。Thesecretaryfallsbackindolentlyinhischair，andtakesabook。

Thegalley-slavegathersupanemptysack。Thesentinelthrowsawayahandfulofnut-shells，shouldershismusket，andawaytheygotogether。

Whydothebeggarsraptheirchinsconstantly，withtheirrighthands，whenyoulookatthem?EverythingisdoneinpantomimeinNaples，andthatistheconventionalsignforhunger。Amanwhoisquarrellingwithanother，yonder，laysthepalmofhisrighthandonthebackofhisleft，andshakesthetwothumbs-expressiveofadonkey"sears-whereathisadversaryisgoadedtodesperation。

Twopeoplebargainingforfish，thebuyeremptiesanimaginarywaistcoatpocketwhenheistoldtheprice，andwalksawaywithoutaword:havingthoroughlyconveyedtothesellerthatheconsidersittoodear。Twopeopleincarriages，meeting，onetoucheshislips，twiceorthrice，holdingupthefivefingersofhisrighthand，andgivesahorizontalcutintheairwiththepalm。Theothernodsbriskly，andgoeshisway。Hehasbeeninvitedtoafriendlydinnerathalf-pastfiveo"clock，andwillcertainlycome。

AlloverItaly，apeculiarshakeoftherighthandfromthewrist，withtheforefingerstretchedout，expressesanegative-theonlynegativebeggarswilleverunderstand。But，inNaples，thosefivefingersareacopiouslanguage。

Allthis，andeveryotherkindofout-doorlifeandstir，andmacaroni-eatingatsunset，andflower-sellingalldaylong，andbeggingandstealingeverywhereandatallhours，youseeuponthebrightsea-shore，wherethewavesofthebaysparklemerrily。But，loversandhuntersofthepicturesque，letusnotkeeptoostudiouslyoutofviewthemiserabledepravity，degradation，andwretchedness，withwhichthisgayNeapolitanlifeisinseparablyassociated！ItisnotwelltofindSaintGiles"ssorepulsive，andthePortaCapuanasoattractive。Apairofnakedlegsandaraggedredscarf，donotmakeALLthedifferencebetweenwhatisinterestingandwhatiscoarseandodious?Paintingandpoetisingforever，ifyouwill，thebeautiesofthismostbeautifulandlovelyspotofearth，letus，asourduty，trytoassociateanewpicturesquewithsomefaintrecognitionofman"sdestinyandcapabilities；morehopeful，Ibelieve，amongtheiceandsnowoftheNorthPole，thaninthesunandbloomofNaples。

Capri-oncemadeodiousbythedeifiedbeastTiberius-Ischia，Procida，andthethousanddistantbeautiesoftheBay，lieintheblueseayonder，changinginthemistandsunshinetwentytimesa-

day:nowcloseathand，nowfaroff，nowunseen。Thefairestcountryintheworld，isspreadaboutus。WhetherweturntowardstheMisenoshoreofthesplendidwateryamphitheatre，andgobytheGrottoofPosilipototheGrottodelCaneandawaytoBaiae:ortaketheotherway，towardsVesuviusandSorrento，itisonesuccessionofdelights。Inthelast-nameddirection，where，overdoorsandarchways，therearecountlesslittleimagesofSanGennaro，withhisCanute"shandstretchedout，tocheckthefuryoftheBurningMountain，wearecarriedpleasantly，byarailroadonthebeautifulSeaBeach，pastthetownofTorredelGreco，builtupontheashesoftheformertowndestroyedbyaneruptionofVesuvius，withinahundredyears；andpasttheflat-roofedhouses，granaries，andmacaronimanufactories；toCastel-a-Mare，withitsruinedcastle，nowinhabitedbyfishermen，standingintheseauponaheapofrocks。Here，therailroadterminates；but，hencewemayrideon，byanunbrokensuccessionofenchantingbays，andbeautifulscenery，slopingfromthehighestsummitofSaintAngelo，thehighestneighbouringmountain，downtothewater"sedge-amongvineyards，olive-trees，gardensoforangesandlemons，orchards，heaped-uprocks，greengorgesinthehills-andbythebasesofsnow-coveredheights，andthroughsmalltownswithhandsome，dark-

hairedwomenatthedoors-andpassdelicioussummervillas-toSorrento，wherethePoetTassodrewhisinspirationfromthebeautysurroundinghim。Returning，wemayclimbtheheightsaboveCastel-

a-Mare，andlookingdownamongtheboughsandleaves，seethecrispwaterglisteninginthesun；andclustersofwhitehousesindistantNaples，dwindling，inthegreatextentofprospect，downtodice。Thecomingbacktothecity，bythebeachagain，atsunset:

withtheglowingseaononeside，andthedarkeningmountain，withitssmokeandflame，upontheother:isasublimeconclusiontothegloryoftheday。

ThatchurchbythePortaCapuana-neartheoldfisher-marketinthedirtiestquarterofdirtyNaples，wheretherevoltofMasaniellobegan-ismemorableforhavingbeenthesceneofoneofhisearliestproclamationstothepeople，andisparticularlyremarkablefornothingelse，unlessitbeitswaxenandbejewelledSaintinaglasscase，withtwooddhands；ortheenormousnumberofbeggarswhoareconstantlyrappingtheirchinsthere，likeabatteryofcastanets。Thecathedralwiththebeautifuldoor，andthecolumnsofAfricanandEgyptiangranitethatonceornamentedthetempleofApollo，containsthefamoussacredbloodofSanGennaroorJanuarius:whichispreservedintwophialsinasilvertabernacle，andmiraculouslyliquefiesthreetimesa-year，tothegreatadmirationofthepeople。Atthesamemoment，thestone(distantsomemiles)wheretheSaintsufferedmartyrdom，becomesfaintlyred。Itissaidthattheofficiatingprieststurnfaintlyredalso，sometimes，whenthesemiraclesoccur。

Theold，oldmenwholiveinhovelsattheentranceoftheseancientcatacombs，andwho，intheirageandinfirmity，seemwaitinghere，tobeburiedthemselves，aremembersofacuriousbody，calledtheRoyalHospital，whoaretheofficialattendantsatfunerals。Twooftheseoldspectrestotteraway，withlightedtapers，toshowthecavernsofdeath-asunconcernedasiftheywereimmortal。Theywereusedasburying-placesforthreehundredyears；and，inonepart，isalargepitfullofskullsandbones，saidtobethesadremainsofagreatmortalityoccasionedbyaplague。Intherestthereisnothingbutdust。Theyconsist，chiefly，ofgreatwidecorridorsandlabyrinths，hewnoutoftherock。Attheendofsomeoftheselongpassages，areunexpectedglimpsesofthedaylight，shiningdownfromabove。Itlooksasghastlyandasstrange；amongthetorches，andthedust，andthedarkvaults:asifit，too，weredeadandburied。

Thepresentburial-placeliesoutyonder，onahillbetweenthecityandVesuvius。TheoldCampoSantowithitsthreehundredandsixty-fivepits，isonlyusedforthosewhodieinhospitals，andprisons，andareunclaimedbytheirfriends。Thegracefulnewcemetery，atnogreatdistancefromit，thoughyetunfinished，hasalreadymanygravesamongitsshrubsandflowers，andairycolonnades。Itmightbereasonablyobjectedelsewhere，thatsomeofthetombsaremeretriciousandtoofanciful；butthegeneralbrightnessseemstojustifyithere；andMountVesuvius，separatedfromthembyalovelyslopeofground，exaltsandsaddensthescene。

IfitbesolemntobeholdfromthisnewCityoftheDead，withitsdarksmokehangingintheclearsky，howmuchmoreawfulandimpressiveisit，viewedfromtheghostlyruinsofHerculaneumandPompeii！

Standatthebottomofthegreatmarket-placeofPompeii，andlookupthesilentstreets，throughtheruinedtemplesofJupiterandIsis，overthebrokenhouseswiththeirinmostsanctuariesopentotheday，awaytoMountVesuvius，brightandsnowyinthepeacefuldistance；andloseallcountoftime，andheedofotherthings，inthestrangeandmelancholysensationofseeingtheDestroyedandtheDestroyermakingthisquietpictureinthesun。Then，rambleon，andsee，ateveryturn，thelittlefamiliartokensofhumanhabitationandevery-daypursuits；thechafingofthebucket-ropeinthestonerimoftheexhaustedwell；thetrackofcarriage-

wheelsinthepavementofthestreet；themarksofdrinking-vesselsonthestonecounterofthewine-shop；theamphoraeinprivatecellars，storedawaysomanyhundredyearsago，andundisturbedtothishour-allrenderingthesolitudeanddeadlylonesomenessoftheplace，tenthousandtimesmoresolemn，thanifthevolcano，initsfury，hadsweptthecityfromtheearth，andsunkitinthebottomofthesea。

Afteritwasshakenbytheearthquakewhichprecededtheeruption，workmenwereemployedinshapingout，instone，newornamentsfortemplesandotherbuildingsthathadsuffered。Hereliestheirwork，outsidethecitygate，asiftheywouldreturnto-morrow。

InthecellarofDiomede"shouse，wherecertainskeletonswerefoundhuddledtogether，closetothedoor，theimpressionoftheirbodiesontheashes，hardenedwiththeashes，andbecamestampedandfixedthere，aftertheyhadshrunk，inside，toscantybones。

So，inthetheatreofHerculaneum，acomicmask，floatingonthestreamwhenitwashotandliquid，stampeditsmimicfeaturesinitasithardenedintostone；andnow，itturnsuponthestrangerthefantasticlookitturnedupontheaudiencesinthatsametheatretwothousandyearsago。

Nexttothewonderofgoingupanddownthestreets，andinandoutofthehouses，andtraversingthesecretchambersofthetemplesofareligionthathasvanishedfromtheearth，andfindingsomanyfreshtracesofremoteantiquity:asifthecourseofTimehadbeenstoppedafterthisdesolation，andtherehadbeennonightsanddays，months，years，andcenturies，since:nothingismoreimpressiveandterriblethanthemanyevidencesofthesearchingnatureoftheashes，asbespeakingtheirirresistiblepower，andtheimpossibilityofescapingthem。Inthewine-cellars，theyforcedtheirwayintotheearthenvessels:displacingthewineandchokingthem，tothebrim，withdust。Inthetombs，theyforcedtheashesofthedeadfromthefuneralurns，andrainednewruinevenintothem。Themouths，andeyes，andskullsofalltheskeletons，werestuffedwiththisterriblehail。InHerculaneum，wherethefloodwasofadifferentandaheavierkind，itrolledin，likeasea。Imagineadelugeofwaterturnedtomarble，atitsheight-andthatiswhatiscalled"thelava"here。

Someworkmenwerediggingthegloomywellonthebrinkofwhichwenowstand，lookingdown，whentheycameonsomeofthestonebenchesofthetheatre-thosesteps(forsuchtheyseem)atthebottomoftheexcavation-andfoundtheburiedcityofHerculaneum。Presentlygoingdown，withlightedtorches，weareperplexedbygreatwallsofmonstrousthickness，risingupbetweenthebenches，shuttingoutthestage，obtrudingtheirshapelessformsinabsurdplaces，confusingthewholeplan，andmakingitadisordereddream。Wecannot，atfirst，believe，orpicturetoourselves，thatTHIScamerollingin，anddrownedthecity；andthatallthatisnothere，hasbeencutaway，bytheaxe，likesolidstone。Butthisperceivedandunderstood，thehorrorandoppressionofitspresenceareindescribable。

Manyofthepaintingsonthewallsintherooflesschambersofbothcities，orcarefullyremovedtothemuseumatNaples，areasfreshandplain，asiftheyhadbeenexecutedyesterday。Herearesubjectsofstilllife，asprovisions，deadgame，bottles，glasses，andthelike；familiarclassicalstories，ormythologicalfables，alwaysforciblyandplainlytold；conceitsofcupids，quarrelling，sporting，workingattrades；theatricalrehearsals；poetsreadingtheirproductionstotheirfriends；inscriptionschalkeduponthewalls；politicalsquibs，advertisements，roughdrawingsbyschoolboys；everythingtopeopleandrestoretheancientcities，inthefancyoftheirwonderingvisitor。Furniture，too，yousee，ofeverykind-lamps，tables，couches；vesselsforeating，drinking，andcooking；workmen"stools，surgicalinstruments，ticketsforthetheatre，piecesofmoney，personalornaments，bunchesofkeysfoundclenchedinthegraspofskeletons，helmetsofguardsandwarriors；

littlehouseholdbells，yetmusicalwiththeirolddomestictones。

Theleastamongtheseobjects，lendsitsaidtoswelltheinterestofVesuvius，andinvestitwithaperfectfascination。Thelooking，fromeitherruinedcity，intotheneighbouringgroundsovergrownwithbeautifulvinesandluxurianttrees；andrememberingthathouseuponhouse，templeontemple，buildingafterbuilding，andstreetafterstreet，arestilllyingunderneaththerootsofallthequietcultivation，waitingtobeturneduptothelightofday；issomethingsowonderful，sofullofmystery，socaptivatingtotheimagination，thatonewouldthinkitwouldbeparamount，andyieldtonothingelse。TonothingbutVesuvius；butthemountainisthegeniusofthescene。Fromeveryindicationoftheruinithasworked，welook，again，withanabsorbinginteresttowhereitssmokeisrisingupintothesky。Itisbeyondus，aswethreadtheruinedstreets:aboveus，aswestandupontheruinedwalls，wefollowitthrougheveryvistaofbrokencolumns，aswewanderthroughtheemptycourt-yardsofthehouses；andthroughthegarlandingsandinterlacingsofeverywantonvine。TurningawaytoPaestumyonder，toseetheawfulstructuresbuilt，theleastagedofthem，hundredsofyearsbeforethebirthofChrist，andstandingyet，erectinlonelymajesty，uponthewild，malaria-blightedplain-wewatchVesuviusasitdisappearsfromtheprospect，andwatchforitagain，onourreturn，withthesamethrillofinterest:asthedoomanddestinyofallthisbeautifulcountry，bidingitsterribletime。

Itisverywarminthesun，onthisearlyspring-day，whenwereturnfromPaestum，butverycoldintheshade:insomuch，thatalthoughwemaylunch，pleasantly，atnoon，intheopenair，bythegateofPompeii，theneighbouringrivuletsuppliesthickiceforourwine。But，thesunisshiningbrightly；thereisnotacloudorspeckofvapourinthewholebluesky，lookingdownuponthebayofNaples；andthemoonwillbeatthefullto-night。NomatterthatthesnowandiceliethickuponthesummitofVesuvius，orthatwehavebeenonfootalldayatPompeii，orthatcroakersmaintainthatstrangersshouldnotbeonthemountainbynight，insuchanunusualseason。Letustakeadvantageofthefineweather；

makethebestofourwaytoResina，thelittlevillageatthefootofthemountain；prepareourselves，aswellaswecan，onsoshortanotice，attheguide"shouse；ascendatonce，andhavesunsethalf-wayup，moon-lightatthetop，andmidnighttocomedownin！

Atfouro"clockintheafternoon，thereisaterribleuproarinthelittlestable-yardofSigniorSalvatore，therecognisedhead-guide，withthegoldbandroundhiscap；andthirtyunder-guideswhoareallscufflingandscreamingatonce，arepreparinghalf-a-dozensaddledponies，threelitters，andsomestoutstaves，forthejourney。Everyoneofthethirty，quarrelswiththeothertwenty-

nine，andfrightensthesixponies；andasmuchofthevillageascanpossiblysqueezeitselfintothelittlestable-yard，participatesinthetumult，andgetstroddenonbythecattle。

Aftermuchviolentskirmishing，andmorenoisethanwouldsufficeforthestormingofNaples，theprocessionstarts。Thehead-guide，whoisliberallypaidforalltheattendants，ridesalittleinadvanceoftheparty；theotherthirtyguidesproceedonfoot。

Eightgoforwardwiththelittersthataretobeusedby-and-by；

andtheremainingtwo-and-twentybeg。

Weascend，gradually，bystonylaneslikeroughbroadflightsofstairs，forsometime。Atlength，weleavethese，andthevineyardsoneithersideofthem，andemergeuponableakbareregionwherethelavaliesconfusedly，inenormousrustymasses；asiftheearthhadbeenploughedupbyburningthunderbolts。Andnow，wehalttoseethesunset。Thechangethatfallsuponthedrearyregion，andonthewholemountain，asitsredlightfades，andthenightcomeson-andtheunutterablesolemnityanddrearinessthatreignaround，whothathaswitnessedit，caneverforget！

Itisdark，whenafterwinding，forsometime，overthebrokenground，wearriveatthefootofthecone:whichisextremelysteep，andseemstorise，almostperpendicularly，fromthespotwherewedismount。Theonlylightisreflectedfromthesnow，deep，hard，andwhite，withwhichtheconeiscovered。Itisnowintenselycold，andtheairispiercing。Thethirty-onehavebroughtnotorches，knowingthatthemoonwillrisebeforewereachthetop。Twoofthelittersaredevotedtothetwoladies；thethird，toaratherheavygentlemanfromNaples，whosehospitalityandgood-naturehaveattachedhimtotheexpedition，anddeterminedhimtoassistindoingthehonoursofthemountain。Theratherheavygentlemaniscarriedbyfifteenmen；eachoftheladiesbyhalf-a-dozen。Wewhowalk，makethebestuseofourstaves；andsothewholepartybegintolabourupwardoverthesnow，-asiftheyweretoilingtothesummitofanantediluvianTwelfth-cake。

Wearealongtimetoilingup；andthehead-guidelooksoddlyabouthimwhenoneofthecompany-notanItalian，thoughanhabitueofthemountainformanyyears:whomwewillcall，forourpresentpurpose，Mr。PickleofPortici-suggeststhat，asitisfreezinghard，andtheusualfootingofashesiscoveredbythesnowandice，itwillsurelybedifficulttodescend。Butthesightofthelittersabove，tiltingupanddown，andjerkingfromthissidetothat，asthebearerscontinuallyslipandtumble，divertsourattention；moreespeciallyasthewholelengthoftheratherheavygentlemanis，atthatmoment，presentedtousalarminglyforeshortened，withhisheaddownwards。

Therisingofthemoonsoonafterwards，revivestheflaggingspiritsofthebearers。Stimulatingeachotherwiththeirusualwatchword，"Courage，friend！Itistoeatmacaroni！"theypresson，gallantly，forthesummit。

Fromtingeingthetopofthesnowaboveus，withabandoflight，andpouringitinastreamthroughthevalleybelow，whilewehavebeenascendinginthedark，themoonsoonlightsthewholewhitemountain-side，andthebroadseadownbelow，andtinyNaplesinthedistance，andeveryvillageinthecountryround。Thewholeprospectisinthislovelystate，whenwecomeupontheplatformonthemountain-top-theregionofFire-anexhaustedcraterformedofgreatmassesofgiganticcinders，likeblocksofstonefromsometremendouswaterfall，burntup；fromeverychinkandcreviceofwhich，hot，sulphuroussmokeispouringout:while，fromanotherconical-shapedhill，thepresentcrater，risingabruptlyfromthisplatformattheend，greatsheetsoffirearestreamingforth:

reddeningthenightwithflame，blackeningitwithsmoke，andspottingitwithred-hotstonesandcinders，thatflyupintotheairlikefeathers，andfalldownlikelead。Whatwordscanpaintthegloomandgrandeurofthisscene！

Thebrokenground；thesmoke；thesenseofsuffocationfromthesulphur:thefearoffallingdownthroughthecrevicesintheyawningground；thestopping，everynowandthen，forsomebodywhoismissinginthedark(forthedensesmokenowobscuresthemoon)；

theintolerablenoiseofthethirty；andthehoarseroaringofthemountain；makeitasceneofsuchconfusion，atthesametime，thatwereelagain。But，draggingtheladiesthroughit，andacrossanotherexhaustedcratertothefootofthepresentVolcano，weapproachclosetoitonthewindyside，andthensitdownamongthehotashesatitsfoot，andlookupinsilence；faintlyestimatingtheactionthatisgoingonwithin，fromitsbeingfullahundredfeethigher，atthisminute，thanitwassixweeksago。

Thereissomethinginthefireandroar，thatgeneratesanirresistibledesiretogetnearertoit。Wecannotrestlong，withoutstartingoff，twoofus，onourhandsandknees，accompaniedbythehead-guide，toclimbtothebrimoftheflamingcrater，andtrytolookin。Meanwhile，thethirtyyell，aswithonevoice，thatitisadangerousproceeding，andcalltoustocomeback；frighteningtherestofthepartyoutoftheirwits。

Whatwiththeirnoise，andwhatwiththetremblingofthethincrustofground，thatseemsabouttoopenunderneathourfeetandplungeusintheburninggulfbelow(whichistherealdanger，iftherebeany)；andwhatwiththeflashingofthefireinourfaces，andtheshowerofred-hotashesthatisrainingdown，andthechokingsmokeandsulphur；wemaywellfeelgiddyandirrational，likedrunkenmen。But，wecontrivetoclimbuptothebrim，andlookdown，foramoment，intotheHellofboilingfirebelow。

Then，weallthreecomerollingdown；blackened，andsinged，andscorched，andhot，andgiddy:andeachwithhisdressalightinhalf-a-dozenplaces。

Youhaveread，athousandtimes，thattheusualwayofdescending，is，byslidingdowntheashes:which，formingagradually-

increasingledgebelowthefeet，preventtoorapidadescent。But，whenwehavecrossedthetwoexhaustedcratersonourwaybackandarecometothisprecipitousplace，thereis(asMr。Picklehasforetold)novestigeofashestobeseen；thewholebeingasmoothsheetofice。

Inthisdilemma，tenoradozenoftheguidescautiouslyjoinhands，andmakeachainofmen；ofwhomtheforemostbeat，aswellastheycan，aroughtrackwiththeirsticks，downwhichwepreparetofollow。Thewaybeingfearfullysteep，andnoneoftheparty:

evenofthethirty:beingabletokeeptheirfeetforsixpacestogether，theladiesaretakenoutoftheirlitters，andplaced，eachbetweentwocarefulpersons；whileothersofthethirtyholdbytheirskirts，topreventtheirfallingforward-anecessaryprecaution，tendingtotheimmediateandhopelessdilapidationoftheirapparel。Theratherheavygentlemanisabjuredtoleavehislittertoo，andbeescortedinasimilarmanner；butheresolvestobebroughtdownashewasbroughtup，ontheprinciplethathisfifteenbearersarenotlikelytotumbleallatonce，andthatheissaferso，thantrustingtohisownlegs。

Inthisorder，webeginthedescent:sometimesonfoot，sometimesshufflingontheice:alwaysproceedingmuchmorequietlyandslowly，thanonourupwardway:andconstantlyalarmedbythefallingamongusofsomebodyfrombehind，whoendangersthefootingofthewholeparty，andclingspertinaciouslytoanybody"sankles。

Itisimpossibleforthelittertobeinadvance，too，asthetrackhastobemade；anditsappearancebehindus，overhead-withsomeoneorotherofthebearersalwaysdown，andtheratherheavygentlemanwithhislegsalwaysintheair-isverythreateningandfrightful。Wehavegoneonthus，averylittleway，painfullyandanxiously，butquitemerrily，andregardingitasagreatsuccess-

andhaveallfallenseveraltimes，andhaveallbeenstopped，somehoworother，aswewereslidingaway-whenMr。PickleofPortici，intheactofremarkingontheseuncommoncircumstancesasquitebeyondhisexperience，stumbles，falls，disengageshimself，withquickpresenceofmind，fromthoseabouthim，plungesawayheadforemost，androlls，overandover，downthewholesurfaceofthecone！

Sickeningasitistolook，andbesopowerlesstohelphim，Iseehimthere，inthemoonlight-Ihavehadsuchadreamoften-

skimmingoverthewhiteice，likeacannon-ball。Almostatthesamemoment，thereisacryfrombehind；andamanwhohascarriedalightbasketofsparecloaksonhishead，comesrollingpast，atthesamefrightfulspeed，closelyfollowedbyaboy。Atthisclimaxofthechapterofaccidents，theremainingeight-and-twentyvociferatetothatdegree，thatapackofwolveswouldbemusictothem！

Giddy，andbloody，andamerebundleofrags，isPickleofPorticiwhenwereachtheplacewherewedismounted，andwherethehorsesarewaiting；but，thankGod，soundinlimb！Andneverarewelikelytobemoregladtoseeamanaliveandonhisfeet，thantoseehimnow-makinglightofittoo，thoughsorelybruisedandingreatpain。TheboyisbroughtintotheHermitageontheMountain，whileweareatsupper，withhisheadtiedup；andthemanisheardof，somehoursafterwards。Hetooisbruisedandstunned，buthasbrokennobones；thesnowhaving，fortunately，coveredallthelargerblocksofrockandstone，andrenderedthemharmless。

Afteracheerfulmeal，andagoodrestbeforeablazingfire，weagaintakehorse，andcontinueourdescenttoSalvatore"shouse-

veryslowly，byreasonofourbruisedfriendbeinghardlyabletokeepthesaddle，orendurethepainofmotion。Thoughitissolateatnight，orearlyinthemorning，allthepeopleofthevillagearewaitingaboutthelittlestable-yardwhenwearrive，andlookinguptheroadbywhichweareexpected。Ourappearanceishailedwithagreatclamouroftongues，andageneralsensationforwhichinourmodestywearesomewhatatalosstoaccount，until，turningintotheyard，wefindthatoneofapartyofFrenchgentlemenwhowereonthemountainatthesametimeislyingonsomestrawinthestable，withabrokenlimb:lookinglikeDeath，andsufferinggreattorture；andthatwewereconfidentlysupposedtohaveencounteredsomeworseaccident。

So"wellreturned，andHeavenbepraised！"asthecheerfulVetturino，whohasborneuscompanyallthewayfromPisa，says，withallhisheart！Andawaywithhisreadyhorses，intosleepingNaples！

ItwakesagaintoPolicinelliandpickpockets，buffosingersandbeggars，rags，puppets，flowers，brightness，dirt，anduniversaldegradation；airingitsHarlequinsuitinthesunshine，nextdayandeveryday；singing，starving，dancing，gaming，onthesea-

shore；andleavingalllabourtotheburningmountain，whichiseveratitswork。

OurEnglishdilettantiwouldbeverypatheticonthesubjectofthenationaltaste，iftheycouldhearanItalianoperahalfasbadlysunginEnglandaswemayheartheFoscariperformed，to-night，inthesplendidtheatreofSanCarlo。But，forastonishingtruthandspiritinseizingandembodyingthereallifeaboutit，theshabbylittleSanCarlinoTheatre-thericketyhouseonestoryhigh，withastaringpictureoutside:downamongthedrumsandtrumpets，andthetumblers，andtheladyconjurer-iswithoutarivalanywhere。

ThereisoneextraordinaryfeatureinthereallifeofNaples，atwhichwemaytakeaglancebeforewego-theLotteries。

TheyprevailinmostpartsofItaly，butareparticularlyobvious，intheireffectsandinfluences，here。TheyaredrawneverySaturday。TheybringanimmenserevenuetotheGovernment；anddiffuseatasteforgamblingamongthepoorestofthepoor，whichisverycomfortabletothecoffersoftheState，andveryruinoustothemselves。Theloweststakeisonegrain；lessthanafarthing。Onehundrednumbers-fromonetoahundred，inclusive-

areputintoabox。Fivearedrawn。Thosearetheprizes。Ibuythreenumbers。Ifoneofthemcomeup，Iwinasmallprize。Iftwo，somehundredsoftimesmystake。Ifthree，threethousandfivehundredtimesmystake。Istake(orplayastheycallit)

whatIcanuponmynumbers，andbuywhatnumbersIplease。TheamountIplay，Ipayatthelotteryoffice，whereIpurchasetheticket；anditisstatedontheticketitself。

Everylotteryofficekeepsaprintedbook，anUniversalLotteryDiviner，whereeverypossibleaccidentandcircumstanceisprovidedfor，andhasanumberagainstit。Forinstance，letustaketwocarlini-aboutsevenpence。Onourwaytothelotteryoffice，werunagainstablackman。Whenwegetthere，wesaygravely，"TheDiviner。"Itishandedoverthecounter，asaseriousmatterofbusiness。Welookatblackman。Suchanumber。"Giveusthat。"

Welookatrunningagainstapersoninthestreet。"Giveusthat。

"Welookatthenameofthestreetitself。"Giveusthat。"Now，wehaveourthreenumbers。

IftheroofofthetheatreofSanCarloweretofallin，somanypeoplewouldplayuponthenumbersattachedtosuchanaccidentintheDiviner，thattheGovernmentwouldsoonclosethosenumbers，anddeclinetoruntheriskoflosinganymoreuponthem。Thisoftenhappens。Notlongago，whentherewasafireintheKing"sPalace，therewassuchadesperaterunonfire，andking，andpalace，thatfurtherstakesonthenumbersattachedtothosewordsintheGoldenBookwereforbidden。Everyaccidentorevent，issupposed，bytheignorantpopulace，tobearevelationtothebeholder，orpartyconcerned，inconnectionwiththelottery。

Certainpeoplewhohaveatalentfordreamingfortunately，aremuchsoughtafter；andtherearesomepriestswhoareconstantlyfavouredwithvisionsoftheluckynumbers。

Iheardofahorserunningawaywithaman，anddashinghimdown，dead，atthecornerofastreet。Pursuingthehorsewithincrediblespeed，wasanotherman，whoransofast，thathecameup，immediatelyaftertheaccident。Hethrewhimselfuponhiskneesbesidetheunfortunaterider，andclaspedhishandwithanexpressionofthewildestgrief。"Ifyouhavelife，"hesaid，"speakonewordtome！Ifyouhaveonegaspofbreathleft，mentionyourageforHeaven"ssake，thatImayplaythatnumberinthelottery。"

Itisfouro"clockintheafternoon，andwemaygotoseeourlotterydrawn。TheceremonytakesplaceeverySaturday，intheTribunale，orCourtofJustice-thissingular，earthy-smellingroom，orgallery，asmouldyasanoldcellar，andasdampasadungeon。Attheupperendisaplatform，withalargehorse-shoetableuponit；andaPresidentandCouncilsittinground-alljudgesoftheLaw。ThemanonthelittlestoolbehindthePresident，istheCapoLazzarone，akindoftribuneofthepeople，appointedontheirbehalftoseethatallisfairlyconducted:

attendedbyafewpersonalfriends。Aragged，swarthyfellowheis:withlongmattedhairhangingdownalloverhisface:andcovered，fromheadtofoot，withmostunquestionablygenuinedirt。

AllthebodyoftheroomisfilledwiththecommonestoftheNeapolitanpeople:andbetweenthemandtheplatform，guardingthestepsleadingtothelatter，isasmallbodyofsoldiers。

Thereissomedelayinthearrivalofthenecessarynumberofjudges；duringwhich，thebox，inwhichthenumbersarebeingplaced，isasourceofthedeepestinterest。Whentheboxisfull，theboywhoistodrawthenumbersoutofitbecomestheprominentfeatureoftheproceedings。Heisalreadydressedforhispart，inatightbrownHollandcoat，withonlyone(theleft)sleevetoit，whichleaveshisrightarmbaredtotheshoulder，readyforplungingdownintothemysteriouschest。

Duringthehushandwhisperthatpervadetheroom，alleyesareturnedonthisyoungministeroffortune。Peoplebegintoinquirehisage，withaviewtothenextlottery；andthenumberofhisbrothersandsisters；andtheageofhisfatherandmother；andwhetherhehasanymolesorpimplesuponhim；andwhere，andhowmany；whenthearrivalofthelastjudgebutone(alittleoldman，universallydreadedaspossessingtheEvilEye)makesaslightdiversion，andwouldoccasionagreaterone，butthatheisimmediatelydeposed，asasourceofinterest，bytheofficiatingpriest，whoadvancesgravelytohisplace，followedbyaverydirtylittleboy，carryinghissacredvestments，andapotofHolyWater。

Hereisthelastjudgecomeatlast，andnowhetakeshisplaceatthehorse-shoetable。

Thereisamurmurofirrepressibleagitation。Inthemidstofit，thepriestputshisheadintothesacredvestments，andpullsthesameoverhisshoulders。Thenhesaysasilentprayer；anddippingabrushintothepotofHolyWater，sprinklesitoverthebox-andovertheboy，andgivesthemadouble-barrelledblessing，whichtheboxandtheboyarebothhoistedonthetabletoreceive。Theboyremainingonthetable，theboxisnowcarriedroundthefrontoftheplatform，byanattendant，whoholdsitupandshakesitlustilyallthetime；seemingtosay，liketheconjurer，"Thereisnodeception，ladiesandgentlemen；keepyoureyesuponme，ifyouplease！"

Atlast，theboxissetbeforetheboy；andtheboy，firstholdinguphisnakedarmandopenhand，divesdownintothehole(itismadelikeaballot-box)andpullsoutanumber，whichisrolledup，roundsomethinghard，likeabonbon。Thishehandstothejudgenexthim，whounrollsalittlebit，andhandsittothePresident，nexttowhomhesits。ThePresidentunrollsit，veryslowly。TheCapoLazzaroneleansoverhisshoulder。ThePresidentholdsitup，unrolled，totheCapoLazzarone。TheCapoLazzarone，lookingatiteagerly，criesout，inashrill，loudvoice，"Sessantadue！"(sixty-

two)，expressingthetwouponhisfingers，ashecallsitout。

Alas！theCapoLazzaronehimselfhasnotstakedonsixty-two。Hisfaceisverylong，andhiseyesrollwildly。

Asithappenstobeafavouritenumber，however，itisprettywellreceived，whichisnotalwaysthecase。Theyarealldrawnwiththesameceremony，omittingtheblessing。Oneblessingisenoughforthewholemultiplication-table。Theonlynewincidentintheproceedings，isthegraduallydeepeningintensityofthechangeintheCapeLazzarone，whohas，evidently，speculatedtotheveryutmostextentofhismeans；andwho，whenheseesthelastnumber，andfindsthatitisnotoneofhis，claspshishands，andraiseshiseyestotheceilingbeforeproclaimingit，asthoughremonstrating，inasecretagony，withhispatronsaint，forhavingcommittedsogrossabreachofconfidence。IhopetheCapoLazzaronemaynotdeserthimforsomeothermemberoftheCalendar，butheseemstothreatenit。

Wherethewinnersmaybe，nobodyknows。Theycertainlyarenotpresent；thegeneraldisappointmentfillingonewithpityforthepoorpeople。Theylook:whenwestandaside，observingthem，intheirpassagethroughthecourt-yarddownbelow:asmiserableastheprisonersinthegaol(itformsapartofthebuilding)，whoarepeepingdownuponthem，frombetweentheirbars；or，asthefragmentsofhumanheadswhicharestilldanglinginchainsoutside，inmemoryofthegoodoldtimes，whentheirownerswerestrungupthere，forthepopularedification。

AwayfromNaplesinaglorioussunrise，bytheroadtoCapua，andthenonathreedays"journeyalongby-roads，thatwemaysee，ontheway，themonasteryofMonteCassino，whichisperchedonthesteepandloftyhillabovethelittletownofSanGermano，andislostonamistymorningintheclouds。

Somuchthebetter，forthedeepsoundingofitsbell，which，aswegowindingup，onmules，towardstheconvent，isheardmysteriouslyinthestillair，whilenothingisseenbutthegreymist，movingsolemnlyandslowly，likeafuneralprocession。Behold，atlengththeshadowypileofbuildingclosebeforeus:itsgreywallsandtowersdimlyseen，thoughsonearandsovast:andtherawvapourrollingthroughitscloistersheavily。

Therearetwoblackshadowswalkingtoandfrointhequadrangle，nearthestatuesofthePatronSaintandhissister；andhoppingonbehindthem，inandoutoftheoldarches，isaraven，croakinginanswertothebell，anduttering，atintervals，thepurestTuscan。

HowlikeaJesuithelooks！Thereneverwasaslyandstealthyfellowsoathomeasisthisraven，standingnowattherefectorydoor，withhisheadononeside，andpretendingtoglanceanotherway，whileheisscrutinizingthevisitorskeenly，andlisteningwithfixedattention。Whatadull-headedmonktheporterbecomesincomparison！

"Hespeakslikeus！"saystheporter:"quiteasplainly。"Quiteasplainly，Porter。Nothingcouldbemoreexpressivethanhisreceptionofthepeasantswhoareenteringthegatewithbasketsandburdens。Thereisarollinhiseye，andachuckleinhisthroat，whichshouldqualifyhimtobechosenSuperiorofanOrderofRavens。Heknowsallaboutit。"It"sallright，"hesays。"Weknowwhatweknow。Comealong，goodpeople。Gladtoseeyou！"

Howwasthisextraordinarystructureeverbuiltinsuchasituation，wherethelabourofconveyingthestone，andiron，andmarble，sogreataheight，musthavebeenprodigious?"Caw！"saystheraven，welcomingthepeasants。How，beingdespoiledbyplunder，fireandearthquake，hasitrisenfromitsruins，andbeenagainmadewhatwenowseeit，withitschurchsosumptuousandmagnificent?"Caw！"saystheraven，welcomingthepeasants。Thesepeoplehaveamiserableappearance，and(asusual)aredenselyignorant，andallbeg，whilethemonksarechauntinginthechapel。

"Caw！"saystheraven，"Cuckoo！"

Soweleavehim，chucklingandrollinghiseyeattheconventgate，andwindslowlydownagainthroughthecloud。Atlastemergingfromit，wecomeinsightofthevillagefarbelow，andtheflatgreencountryintersectedbyrivulets；whichispleasantandfreshtoseeaftertheobscurityandhazeoftheconvent-nodisrespecttotheraven，ortheholyfriars。

Awaywegoagain，bymuddyroads，andthroughthemostshatteredandtatteredofvillages，wherethereisnotawholewindowamongallthehouses，orawholegarmentamongallthepeasants，ortheleastappearanceofanythingtoeat，inanyofthewretchedhucksters"shops。Thewomenwearabrightredbodicelacedbeforeandbehind，awhiteskirt，andtheNeapolitanhead-dressofsquarefoldsoflinen，primitivelymeanttocarryloadson。Themenandchildrenwearanythingtheycanget。Thesoldiersareasdirtyandrapaciousasthedogs。Theinnsaresuchhobgoblinplaces，thattheyareinfinitelymoreattractiveandamusingthanthebesthotelsinParis。HereisonenearValmontone(thatisValmontonetheround，walledtownonthemountopposite)，whichisapproachedbyaquagmirealmostknee-deep。Thereisawildcolonnadebelow，andadarkyardfullofemptystablesandlofts，andagreatlongkitchenwithagreatlongbenchandagreatlongform，whereapartyoftravellers，withtwopriestsamongthem，arecrowdingroundthefirewhiletheirsupperiscooking。Abovestairs，isaroughbrickgallerytositin，withverylittlewindowswithverysmallpatchesofknottyglassinthem，andallthedoorsthatopenfromit(adozenortwo)offtheirhinges，andabareboardontresselsforatable，atwhichthirtypeoplemightdineeasily，andafireplacelargeenoughinitselfforabreakfast-parlour，where，asthefaggotsblazeandcrackle，theyilluminatetheugliestandgrimmestoffaces，drawnincharcoalonthewhitewashedchimney-

sidesbyprevioustravellers。Thereisaflaringcountrylamponthetable；and，hoveringaboutit，scratchingherthickblackhaircontinually，ayellowdwarfofawoman，whostandsontiptoetoarrangethehatchetknives，andtakesaflyingleaptolookintothewater-jug。Thebedsintheadjoiningroomsareoftheliveliestkind。Thereisnotasolitaryscrapoflooking-glassinthehouse，andthewashingapparatusisidenticalwiththecookingutensils。Buttheyellowdwarfsetsonthetableagoodflaskofexcellentwine，holdingaquartatleast；andproduces，amonghalf-

a-dozenotherdishes，two-thirdsofaroastedkid，smokinghot。

Sheisasgood-humoured，too，asdirty，whichissayingagreatdeal。Sohere"slonglifetoher，intheflaskofwine，andprosperitytotheestablishment。

Romegainedandleftbehind，andwithitthePilgrimswhoarenowrepairingtotheirownhomesagain-eachwithhisscallopshellandstaff，andsolicitingalmsfortheloveofGod-wecome，byafaircountry，totheFallsofTerni，wherethewholeVelinoriverdashes，headlong，fromarockyheight，amidstshiningsprayandrainbows。Perugia，stronglyfortifiedbyartandnature，onaloftyeminence，risingabruptlyfromtheplainwherepurplemountainsminglewiththedistantsky，isglowing，onitsmarket-

day，withradiantcolours。TheysetoffitssombrebutrichGothicbuildingsadmirably。Thepavementofitsmarket-placeisstrewnwithcountrygoods。Allalongthesteephillleadingfromthetown，underthetownwall，thereisanoisyfairofcalves，lambs，pigs，horses，mules，andoxen。Fowls，geese，andturkeys，fluttervigorouslyamongtheirveryhoofs；andbuyers，sellers，andspectators，clusteringeverywhere，blockuptheroadaswecomeshoutingdownuponthem。

Suddenly，thereisaringingsoundamongourhorses。Thedriverstopsthem。Sinkinginhissaddle，andcastinguphiseyestoHeaven，hedeliversthisapostrophe，"OhJoveOmnipotent！hereisahorsehaslosthisshoe！"

Notwithstandingthetremendousnatureofthisaccident，andtheutterlyforlornlookandgesture(impossibleinanyonebutanItalianVetturino)withwhichitisannounced，itisnotlonginbeingrepairedbyamortalFarrier，bywhoseassistancewereachCastiglionethesamenight，andArezzonextday。Massis，ofcourse，performinginitsfinecathedral，wherethesunshinesinamongtheclusteredpillars，throughrichstained-glasswindows:

halfrevealing，halfconcealingthekneelingfiguresonthepavement，andstrikingoutpathsofspottedlightinthelongaisles。

But，howmuchbeautyofanotherkindishere，when，onafairclearmorning，welook，fromthesummitofahill，onFlorence！Seewhereitliesbeforeusinasun-lightedvalley，brightwiththewindingArno，andshutinbyswellinghills；itsdomes，andtowers，andpalaces，risingfromtherichcountryinaglitteringheap，andshininginthesunlikegold！

MagnificentlysternandsombrearethestreetsofbeautifulFlorence；andthestrongoldpilesofbuildingmakesuchheapsofshadow，onthegroundandintheriver，thatthereisanotherandadifferentcityofrichformsandfancies，alwayslyingatourfeet。

Prodigiouspalaces，constructedfordefence，withsmalldistrustfulwindowsheavilybarred，andwallsofgreatthicknessformedofhugemassesofroughstone，frown，intheiroldsulkystate，oneverystreet。Inthemidstofthecity-inthePiazzaoftheGrandDuke，adornedwithbeautifulstatuesandtheFountainofNeptune-

risesthePalazzoVecchio，withitsenormousoverhangingbattlements，andtheGreatTowerthatwatchesoverthewholetown。

Initscourt-yard-worthyoftheCastleofOtrantoinitsponderousgloom-isamassivestaircasethattheheaviestwaggonandthestoutestteamofhorsesmightbedrivenup。Withinit，isaGreatSaloon，fadedandtarnishedinitsstatelydecorations，andmoulderingbygrains，butrecordingyet，inpicturesonitswalls，thetriumphsoftheMediciandthewarsoftheoldFlorentinepeople。Theprisonishardby，inanadjacentcourt-yardofthebuilding-afoulanddismalplace，wheresomemenareshutupclose，insmallcellslikeovens；andwhereotherslookthroughbarsandbeg；wheresomeareplayingdraughts，andsomearetalkingtotheirfriends，whosmoke，thewhile，topurifytheair；andsomearebuyingwineandfruitofwomen-vendors；andallaresqualid，dirty，andviletolookat。"Theyaremerryenough，Signore，"saysthejailer。"Theyareallblood-stainedhere，"headds，indicating，withhishand，three-fourthsofthewholebuilding。

Beforethehourisout，anoldman，eightyyearsofage，quarrellingoverabargainwithayounggirlofseventeen，stabsherdead，inthemarket-placefullofbrightflowers；andisbroughtinprisoner，toswellthenumber。

Amongthefouroldbridgesthatspantheriver，thePonteVecchio-

thatbridgewhichiscoveredwiththeshopsofJewellersandGoldsmiths-isamostenchantingfeatureinthescene。Thespaceofonehouse，inthecentre，beingleftopen，theviewbeyondisshownasinaframe；andthatpreciousglimpseofsky，andwater，andrichbuildings，shiningsoquietlyamongthehuddledroofsandgablesonthebridge，isexquisite。Aboveit，theGalleryoftheGrandDukecrossestheriver。ItwasbuilttoconnectthetwoGreatPalacesbyasecretpassage；andittakesitsjealouscourseamongthestreetsandhouses，withtruedespotism:goingwhereitlists，andspurningeveryobstacleaway，beforeit。

TheGrandDukehasaworthiersecretpassagethroughthestreets，inhisblackrobeandhood，asamemberoftheCompagniadellaMisericordia，whichbrotherhoodincludesallranksofmen。Ifanaccidenttakeplace，theirofficeis，toraisethesufferer，andbearhimtenderlytotheHospital。Ifafirebreakout，itisoneoftheirfunctionstorepairtothespot，andrendertheirassistanceandprotection。Itis，also，amongtheircommonestoffices，toattendandconsolethesick；andtheyneitherreceivemoney，noreat，nordrink，inanyhousetheyvisitforthispurpose。Thosewhoareondutyforthetime，areallcalledtogether，onamoment"snotice，bythetollingofthegreatbelloftheTower；anditissaidthattheGrandDukehasbeenseen，atthissound，torisefromhisseatattable，andquietlywithdrawtoattendthesummons。

InthisotherlargePiazza，whereanirregularkindofmarketisheld，andstoresofoldironandothersmallmerchandisearesetoutonstalls，orscatteredonthepavement，aregroupedtogether，theCathedralwithitsgreatDome，thebeautifulItalianGothicTowertheCampanile，andtheBaptisterywithitswroughtbronzedoors。Andhere，asmalluntroddensquareinthepavement，is"theStoneofDANTE，"where(sorunsthestory)hewasusedtobringhisstool，andsitincontemplation。Iwonderwasheever，inhisbitterexile，withheldfromcursingtheverystonesinthestreetsofFlorencetheungrateful，byanykindremembranceofthisoldmusing-place，anditsassociationwithgentlethoughtsoflittleBeatrice！

ThechapeloftheMedici，theGoodandBadAngels，ofFlorence；thechurchofSantaCrocewhereMichaelAngeloliesburied，andwhereeverystoneinthecloistersiseloquentongreatmen"sdeaths；

innumerablechurches，oftenmassesofunfinishedheavybrickworkexternally，butsolemnandserenewithin；arrestourlingeringsteps，instrollingthroughthecity。

Inkeepingwiththetombsamongthecloisters，istheMuseumofNaturalHistory，famousthroughtheworldforitspreparationsinwax；beginningwithmodelsofleaves，seeds，plants，inferioranimals；andgraduallyascending，throughseparateorgansofthehumanframe，uptothewholestructureofthatwonderfulcreation，exquisitelypresented，asinrecentdeath。Fewadmonitionsofourfrailmortalitycanbemoresolemnandmoresad，orstrikesohomeupontheheart，asthecounterfeitsofYouthandBeautythatarelyingthere，upontheirbeds，intheirlastsleep。

Beyondthewalls，thewholesweetValleyoftheArno，theconventatFiesole，theTowerofGalileo，BOCCACCIO"Shouse，oldvillasandretreats；innumerablespotsofinterest，allglowinginalandscapeofsurpassingbeautysteepedintherichestlight；arespreadbeforeus。Returningfromsomuchbrightness，howsolemnandhowgrandthestreetsagain，withtheirgreat，dark，mournfulpalaces，andmanylegends:notofsiege，andwar，andmight，andIronHandalone，butofthetriumphantgrowthofpeacefulArtsandSciences。

Whatlightisshedupontheworld，atthisday，fromamidsttheseruggedPalacesofFlorence！Here，opentoallcomers，intheirbeautifulandcalmretreats，theancientSculptorsareimmortal，sidebysidewithMichaelAngelo，Canova，Titian，Rembrandt，Raphael，Poets，Historians，Philosophers-thoseillustriousmenofhistory，besidewhomitscrownedheadsandharnessedwarriorsshowsopoorandsmall，andaresosoonforgotten。Here，theimperishablepartofnoblemindssurvives，placidandequal，whenstrongholdsofassaultanddefenceareoverthrown；whenthetyrannyofthemany，orthefew，orboth，isbutatale；whenPrideandPoweraresomuchcloistereddust。Thefirewithinthesternstreets，andamongthemassivePalacesandTowers，kindledbyraysfromHeaven，isstillburningbrightly，whentheflickeringofwarisextinguishedandthehouseholdfiresofgenerationshavedecayed；asthousandsuponthousandsoffaces，rigidwiththestrifeandpassionofthehour，havefadedoutoftheoldSquaresandpublichaunts，whilethenamelessFlorentineLady，preservedfromoblivionbyaPainter"shand，yetliveson，inenduringgraceandyouth。

LetuslookbackonFlorencewhilewemay，andwhenitsshiningDomeisseennomore，gotravellingthroughcheerfulTuscany，withabrightremembranceofit；forItalywillbethefairerfortherecollection。Thesummer-timebeingcome:andGenoa，andMilan，andtheLakeofComolyingfarbehindus:andwerestingatFaido，aSwissvillage，neartheawfulrocksandmountains，theeverlastingsnowsandroaringcataracts，oftheGreatSaintGothard:hearingtheItaliantongueforthelasttimeonthisjourney:letuspartfromItaly，withallitsmiseriesandwrongs，affectionately，inouradmirationofthebeauties，naturalandartificial，ofwhichitisfulltooverflowing，andinourtendernesstowardsapeople，naturallywell-disposed，andpatient，andsweet-tempered。Yearsofneglect，oppression，andmisrule，havebeenatwork，tochangetheirnatureandreducetheirspirit；

miserablejealousies，fomentedbypettyPrincestowhomunionwasdestruction，anddivisionstrength，havebeenacankerattheirrootofnationality，andhavebarbarizedtheirlanguage；butthegoodthatwasinthemever，isinthemyet，andanoblepeoplemaybe，oneday，raisedupfromtheseashes。Letusentertainthathope！AndletusnotrememberItalythelessregardfully，because，ineveryfragmentofherfallenTemples，andeverystoneofherdesertedpalacesandprisons，shehelpstoinculcatethelessonthatthewheelofTimeisrollingforanend，andthattheworldis，inallgreatessentials，better，gentler，moreforbearing，andmorehopeful，asitrolls！

End