第12章

Thetimeisoneo"clockatnoon。Thescene，aplacewherewearetostayanddine，onthisjourney。Thecoachdrivesuptothedoorofaninn。Thedayiswarm，andthereareseveralidlerslingeringaboutthetavern，andwaitingforthepublicdinner。Amongthem，isastoutgentlemaninabrownhat，swinginghimselftoandfroinarocking-chaironthepavement。

Asthecoachstops，agentlemaninastrawhatlooksoutofthewindow:

STRAWHAT。(Tothestoutgentlemanintherocking-chair。)I

reckonthat"sJudgeJefferson，an"tit？

BROWNHAT。(Stillswinging；speakingveryslowly；andwithoutanyemotionwhatever。)Yes，sir。

STRAWHAT。Warmweather，Judge。

BROWNHAT。Yes，sir。

STRAWHAT。Therewasasnapofcold，lastweek。

BROWNHAT。Yes，sir。

STRAWHAT。Yes，sir。

Apause。Theylookateachother，veryseriously。

STRAWHAT。Icalculateyou"llhavegotthroughthatcaseofthecorporation，Judge，bythistime，now？

BROWNHAT。Yes，sir。

STRAWHAT。Howdidtheverdictgo，sir？

BROWNHAT。Forthedefendant，sir。

STRAWHAT。(Interrogatively。)Yes，sir？

BROWNHAT。(Affirmatively。)Yes，sir。

BOTH。(Musingly，aseachgazesdownthestreet。)Yes，sir。

Anotherpause。Theylookateachotheragain，stillmoreseriouslythanbefore。

BROWNHAT。Thiscoachisratherbehinditstimeto-day，Iguess。

STRAWHAT。(Doubtingly。)Yes，sir。

BROWNHAT。(Lookingathiswatch。)Yes，sir；nighupontwohours。

STRAWHAT。(Raisinghiseyebrowsinverygreatsurprise。)Yes，sir!

BROWNHAT。(Decisively，asheputsuphiswatch。)Yes，sir。

ALLTHEOTHERINSIDEPASSENGERS。(Amongthemselves。)Yes，sir。

COACHMAN。(Inaverysurlytone。)Noitan"t。

STRAWHAT。(Tothecoachman。)Well，Idon"tknow，sir。Wewereaprettytalltimecomingthatlastfifteenmile。That"safact。

Thecoachmanmakingnoreply，andplainlydecliningtoenterintoanycontroversyonasubjectsofarremovedfromhissympathiesandfeelings，anotherpassengersays，"Yes，sir；"andthegentlemaninthestrawhatinacknowledgmentofhiscourtesy，says"Yes，sir，"

tohim，inreturn。Thestrawhattheninquiresofthebrownhat，whetherthatcoachinwhichhe(thestrawhat)thensits，isnotanewone？Towhichthebrownhatagainmakesanswer，"Yes，sir。"

STRAWHAT。Ithoughtso。Prettyloudsmellofvarnish，sir？

BROWNHAT。Yes，sir。

ALLTHEOTHERINSIDEPASSENGERS。Yes，sir。

BROWNHAT。(Tothecompanyingeneral。)Yes，sir。

Theconversationalpowersofthecompanyhavingbeenbythistimeprettyheavilytaxed，thestrawhatopensthedoorandgetsout；

andalltherestalightalso。Wedinesoonafterwardswiththeboardersinthehouse，andhavenothingtodrinkbutteaandcoffee。Astheyarebothverybadandthewaterisworse，Iaskforbrandy；butitisaTemperanceHotel，andspiritsarenottobehadforloveormoney。ThispreposterousforcingofunpleasantdrinksdownthereluctantthroatsoftravellersisnotatalluncommoninAmerica，butIneverdiscoveredthatthescruplesofsuchwincinglandlordsinducedthemtopreserveanyunusuallynicebalancebetweenthequalityoftheirfare，andtheirscaleofcharges:onthecontrary，Irathersuspectedthemofdiminishingtheoneandexaltingtheother，bywayofrecompenseforthelossoftheirprofitonthesaleofspirituousliquors。Afterall，perhaps，theplainestcourseforpersonsofsuchtenderconsciences，wouldbe，atotalabstinencefromtavern-keeping。

Dinnerover，wegetintoanothervehiclewhichisreadyatthedoor(forthecoachhasbeenchangedintheinterval)，andresumeourjourney；whichcontinuesthroughthesamekindofcountryuntilevening，whenwecometothetownwherewearetostopforteaandsupper；andhavingdeliveredthemailbagsatthePost-office，ridethroughtheusualwidestreet，linedwiththeusualstoresandhouses(thedrapersalwayshavinghungupattheirdoor，bywayofsign，apieceofbrightredcloth)，tothehotelwherethismealisprepared。Therebeingmanyboardershere，wesitdown，alargeparty，andaverymelancholyoneasusual。Butthereisabuxomhostessattheheadofthetable，andopposite，asimpleWelshschoolmasterwithhiswifeandchild；whocamehere，onaspeculationofgreaterpromisethanperformance，toteachtheclassics:andtheyaresufficientsubjectsofinterestuntilthemealisover，andanothercoachisready。Initwegoononcemore，lightedbyabrightmoon，untilmidnight；whenwestoptochangethecoachagain，andremainforhalfanhourorsoinamiserableroom，withablurredlithographofWashingtonoverthesmokyfire-place，andamightyjugofcoldwateronthetable:towhichrefreshmentthemoodypassengersdosoapplythemselvesthattheywouldseemtobe，oneandall，keenpatientsofDr。Sangrado。

Amongthemisaverylittleboy，whochewstobaccolikeaverybigone；andadroninggentleman，whotalksarithmeticallyandstatisticallyonallsubjects，frompoetrydownwards；andwhoalwaysspeaksinthesamekey，withexactlythesameemphasis，andwithverygravedeliberation。Hecameoutsidejustnow，andtoldmehowthattheuncleofacertainyoungladywhohadbeenspiritedawayandmarriedbyacertaincaptain，livedintheseparts；andhowthisunclewassovaliantandferociousthatheshouldn"twonderifheweretofollowthesaidcaptaintoEngland，"andshoothimdowninthestreetwhereverhefoundhim；"inthefeasibilityofwhichstrongmeasureI，beingforthemomentratherpronetocontradiction，fromfeelinghalfasleepandverytired，declinedtoacquiesce:assuringhimthatiftheuncledidresorttoit，orgratifiedanyotherlittlewhimofthelikenature，hewouldfindhimselfonemorningprematurelythrottledattheOldBailey:andthathewoulddowelltomakehiswillbeforehewent，ashewouldcertainlywantitbeforehehadbeeninBritainverylong。

Onwego，allnight，andby-and-bythedaybeginstobreak，andpresentlythefirstcheerfulraysofthewarmsuncomeslantingonusbrightly。Itshedsitslightuponamiserablewasteofsoddengrass，anddulltrees，andsqualidhuts，whoseaspectisforlornandgrievousinthelastdegree。Averydesertinthewood，whosegrowthofgreenisdankandnoxiouslikethatuponthetopofstandingwater:wherepoisonousfungusgrowsintherarefootprintontheoozyground，andsproutslikewitches"coral，fromthecrevicesinthecabinwallandfloor；itisahideousthingtolieupontheverythresholdofacity。Butitwaspurchasedyearsago，andastheownercannotbediscovered，theStatehasbeenunabletoreclaimit。Sothereitremains，inthemidstofcultivationandimprovement，likegroundaccursed，andmadeobsceneandrankbysomegreatcrime。

WereachedColumbusshortlybeforeseveno"clock，andstayedthere，torefresh，thatdayandnight:havingexcellentapartmentsinaverylargeunfinishedhotelcalledtheNeillHouse，whichwererichlyfittedwiththepolishedwoodoftheblackwalnut，andopenedonahandsomeporticoandstoneverandah，likeroomsinsomeItalianmansion。Thetowniscleanandpretty，andofcourseis"goingtobe"muchlarger。ItistheseatoftheStatelegislatureofOhio，andlaysclaim，inconsequence，tosomeconsiderationandimportance。

Therebeingnostage-coachnextday，upontheroadwewishedtotake，Ihired"anextra，"atareasonablechargetocarryustoTiffin；asmalltownfromwhencethereisarailroadtoSandusky。

Thisextrawasanordinaryfour-horsestage-coach，suchasIhavedescribed，changinghorsesanddrivers，asthestage-coachwould，butwasexclusivelyourownforthejourney。Toensureourhavinghorsesattheproperstations，andbeingincommodedbynostrangers，theproprietorssentanagentonthebox，whowastoaccompanyusthewholewaythrough；andthusattended，andbearingwithus，besides，ahamperfullofsavourycoldmeats，andfruit，andwine，westartedoffagaininhighspirits，athalf-pastsixo"clocknextmorning，verymuchdelightedtobebyourselves，anddisposedtoenjoyeventheroughestjourney。

Itwaswellforus，thatwewereinthishumour，fortheroadwewentoverthatday，wascertainlyenoughtohaveshakentempersthatwerenotresolutelyatSetFair，downtosomeinchesbelowStormy。Atonetimewewereallflungtogetherinaheapatthebottomofthecoach，andatanotherwewerecrushingourheadsagainsttheroof。Now，onesidewasdowndeepinthemire，andwewereholdingontotheother。Now，thecoachwaslyingonthetailsofthetwowheelers；andnowitwasrearingupintheair，inafranticstate，withallfourhorsesstandingonthetopofaninsurmountableeminence，lookingcoollybackatit，asthoughtheywouldsay"Unharnessus。Itcan"tbedone。"Thedriversontheseroads，whocertainlygetoverthegroundinamannerwhichisquitemiraculous，sotwistandturntheteamaboutinforcingapassage，corkscrewfashion，throughthebogsandswamps，thatitwasquiteacommoncircumstanceonlookingoutofthewindow，toseethecoachmanwiththeendsofapairofreinsinhishands，apparentlydrivingnothing，orplayingathorses，andtheleadersstaringatoneunexpectedlyfromthebackofthecoach，asiftheyhadsomeideaofgettingupbehind。Agreatportionofthewaywasoverwhatiscalledacorduroyroad，whichismadebythrowingtrunksoftreesintoamarsh，andleavingthemtosettlethere。Theveryslightestofthejoltswithwhichtheponderouscarriagefellfromlogtolog，wasenough，itseemed，tohavedislocatedallthebonesinthehumanbody。Itwouldbeimpossibletoexperienceasimilarsetofsensations，inanyothercircumstances，unlessperhapsinattemptingtogouptothetopofSt。Paul"sinanomnibus。Never，neveronce，thatday，wasthecoachinanyposition，attitude，orkindofmotiontowhichweareaccustomedincoaches。Neverdiditmakethesmallestapproachtoone"sexperienceoftheproceedingsofanysortofvehiclethatgoesonwheels。

Still，itwasafineday，andthetemperaturewasdelicious，andthoughwehadleftSummerbehindusinthewest，andwerefastleavingSpring，weweremovingtowardsNiagaraandhome。Wealightedinapleasantwoodtowardsthemiddleoftheday，dinedonafallentree，andleavingourbestfragmentswithacottager，andourworstwiththepigs(whoswarminthispartofthecountrylikegrainsofsandonthesea-shore，tothegreatcomfortofourcommissariatinCanada)，wewentforwardagain，gaily。

Asnightcameon，thetrackgrewnarrowerandnarrower，untilatlastitsolostitselfamongthetrees，thatthedriverseemedtofindhiswaybyinstinct。Wehadthecomfortofknowing，atleast，thattherewasnodangerofhisfallingasleep，foreverynowandthenawheelwouldstrikeagainstanunseenstumpwithsuchajerk，thathewasfaintoholdonprettytightandprettyquick，tokeephimselfuponthebox。Norwasthereanyreasontodreadtheleastdangerfromfuriousdriving，inasmuchasoverthatbrokengroundthehorseshadenoughtodotowalk；astoshying，therewasnoroomforthat；andaherdofwildelephantscouldnothaverunawayinsuchawood，withsuchacoachattheirheels。Sowestumbledalong，quitesatisfied。

ThesestumpsoftreesareacuriousfeatureinAmericantravelling。

Thevaryingillusionstheypresenttotheunaccustomedeyeasitgrowsdark，arequiteastonishingintheirnumberandreality。

Now，thereisaGrecianurnerectedinthecentreofalonelyfield；nowthereisawomanweepingatatomb；nowaverycommonplaceoldgentlemaninawhitewaistcoat，withathumbthrustintoeacharm-holeofhiscoat；nowastudentporingonabook；nowacrouchingnegro；now，ahorse，adog，acannon，anarmedman；ahunch-backthrowingoffhiscloakandsteppingforthintothelight。Theywereoftenasentertainingtomeassomanyglassesinamagiclantern，andnevertooktheirshapesatmybidding，butseemedtoforcethemselvesuponme，whetherIwouldorno；andstrangetosay，Isometimesrecognisedinthemcounterpartsoffiguresoncefamiliartomeinpicturesattachedtochildishbooks，forgottenlongago。

Itsoonbecametoodark，however，evenforthisamusement，andthetreesweresoclosetogetherthattheirdrybranchesrattledagainstthecoachoneitherside，andobligedusalltokeepourheadswithin。Itlightenedtoo，forthreewholehours；eachflashbeingverybright，andblue，andlong；andasthevividstreakscamedartinginamongthecrowdedbranches，andthethunderrolledgloomilyabovethetreetops，onecouldscarcelyhelpthinkingthattherewerebetterneighbourhoodsatsuchatimethanthickwoodsafforded。

Atlength，betweentenandeleveno"clockatnight，afewfeeblelightsappearedinthedistance，andUpperSandusky，anIndianvillage，whereweweretostaytillmorning，laybeforeus。

TheyweregonetobedatthelogInn，whichwastheonlyhouseofentertainmentintheplace，butsoonansweredtoourknocking，andgotsometeaforusinasortofkitchenorcommonroom，tapestriedwitholdnewspapers，pastedagainstthewall。Thebed-chambertowhichmywifeandIwereshown，wasalarge，low，ghostlyroom；

withaquantityofwitheredbranchesonthehearth，andtwodoorswithoutanyfastening，oppositetoeachother，bothopeningontheblacknightandwildcountry，andsocontrived，thatoneofthemalwaysblewtheotheropen:anoveltyindomesticarchitecture，whichIdonotremembertohaveseenbefore，andwhichIwassomewhatdisconcertedtohaveforcedonmyattentionaftergettingintobed，asIhadaconsiderablesumingoldforourtravellingexpenses，inmydressing-case。Someoftheluggage，however，piledagainstthepanels，soonsettledthisdifficulty，andmysleepwouldnothavebeenverymuchaffectedthatnight，Ibelieve，thoughithadfailedtodoso。

MyBostonfriendclimbeduptobed，somewhereintheroof，whereanotherguestwasalreadysnoringhugely。Butbeingbittenbeyondhispowerofendurance，heturnedoutagain，andfledforsheltertothecoach，whichwasairingitselfinfrontofthehouse。Thiswasnotaverypoliticstep，asitturnedout；forthepigsscentinghim，andlookinguponthecoachasakindofpiewithsomemannerofmeatinside，gruntedrounditsohideously，thathewasafraidtocomeoutagain，andlaythereshivering，tillmorning。

Norwasitpossibletowarmhim，whenhedidcomeout，bymeansofaglassofbrandy:forinIndianvillages，thelegislature，withaverygoodandwiseintention，forbidsthesaleofspiritsbytavernkeepers。Theprecaution，however，isquiteinefficacious，fortheIndiansneverfailtoprocureliquorofaworsekind，atadearerprice，fromtravellingpedlars。

ItisasettlementoftheWyandotIndianswhoinhabitthisplace。

Amongthecompanyatbreakfastwasamildoldgentleman，whohadbeenformanyyearsemployedbytheUnitedStatesGovernmentinconductingnegotiationswiththeIndians，andwhohadjustconcludedatreatywiththesepeoplebywhichtheyboundthemselves，inconsiderationofacertainannualsum，toremovenextyeartosomelandprovidedforthem，westoftheMississippi，andalittlewaybeyondSt。Louis。Hegavemeamovingaccountoftheirstrongattachmenttothefamiliarscenesoftheirinfancy，andinparticulartotheburial-placesoftheirkindred；andoftheirgreatreluctancetoleavethem。Hehadwitnessedmanysuchremovals，andalwayswithpain，thoughheknewthattheydepartedfortheirowngood。Thequestionwhetherthistribeshouldgoorstay，hadbeendiscussedamongthemadayortwobefore，inahuterectedforthepurpose，thelogsofwhichstilllayuponthegroundbeforetheinn。Whenthespeakingwasdone，theayesandnoeswererangedonoppositesides，andeverymaleadultvotedinhisturn。Themomenttheresultwasknown，theminority(alargeone)cheerfullyyieldedtotherest，andwithdrewallkindofopposition。

WemetsomeofthesepoorIndiansafterwards，ridingonshaggyponies。Theyweresolikethemeanersortofgipsies，thatifI

couldhaveseenanyoftheminEngland，Ishouldhaveconcluded，asamatterofcourse，thattheybelongedtothatwanderingandrestlesspeople。

Leavingthistowndirectlyafterbreakfast，wepushedforwardagain，overaratherworseroadthanyesterday，ifpossible，andarrivedaboutnoonatTiffin，wherewepartedwiththeextra。Attwoo"clockwetooktherailroad；thetravellingonwhichwasveryslow，itsconstructionbeingindifferent，andthegroundwetandmarshy；andarrivedatSanduskyintimetodinethatevening。WeputupatacomfortablelittlehotelonthebrinkofLakeErie，laytherethatnight，andhadnochoicebuttowaittherenextday，untilasteamboatboundforBuffaloappeared。Thetown，whichwassluggishanduninterestingenough，wassomethinglikethebackofanEnglishwatering-place，outoftheseason。

Ourhost，whowasveryattentiveandanxioustomakeuscomfortable，wasahandsomemiddle-agedman，whohadcometothistownfromNewEngland，inwhichpartofthecountryhewas"raised。"WhenIsaythatheconstantlywalkedinandoutoftheroomwithhishaton；andstoppedtoconverseinthesamefree-and-

easystate；andlaydownonoursofa，andpulledhisnewspaperoutofhispocket，andreaditathisease；Imerelymentionthesetraitsascharacteristicofthecountry:notatallasbeingmatterofcomplaint，orashavingbeendisagreeabletome。I

shouldundoubtedlybeoffendedbysuchproceedingsathome，becausetheretheyarenotthecustom，andwheretheyarenot，theywouldbeimpertinencies；butinAmerica，theonlydesireofagood-

naturedfellowofthiskind，istotreathisguestshospitablyandwell；andIhadnomoreright，andIcantrulysaynomoredisposition，tomeasurehisconductbyourEnglishruleandstandard，thanIhadtoquarrelwithhimfornotbeingoftheexactstaturewhichwouldqualifyhimforadmissionintotheQueen"sgrenadierguards。AslittleinclinationhadItofindfaultwithafunnyoldladywhowasanupperdomesticinthisestablishment，andwho，whenshecametowaituponusatanymeal，satherselfdowncomfortablyinthemostconvenientchair，andproducingalargepintopickherteethwith，remainedperformingthatceremony，andsteadfastlyregardingusmeanwhilewithmuchgravityandcomposure(nowandthenpressingustoeatalittlemore)，untilitwastimetoclearaway。Itwasenoughforus，thatwhateverwewisheddonewasdonewithgreatcivilityandreadiness，andadesiretooblige，notonlyhere，buteverywhereelse；andthatallourwantswere，ingeneral，zealouslyanticipated。

Weweretakinganearlydinneratthishouse，onthedayafterourarrival，whichwasSunday，whenasteamboatcameinsight，andpresentlytouchedatthewharf。AssheprovedtobeonherwaytoBuffalo，wehurriedonboardwithallspeed，andsoonleftSanduskyfarbehindus。

Shewasalargevesseloffivehundredtons，andhandsomelyfittedup，thoughwithhigh-pressureengines；whichalwaysconveyedthatkindoffeelingtome，whichIshouldbelikelytoexperience，I

think，ifIhadlodgingsonthefirst-floorofapowder-mill。Shewasladenwithflour，somecasksofwhichcommoditywerestoreduponthedeck。Thecaptaincominguptohavealittleconversation，andtointroduceafriend，seatedhimselfastrideofoneofthesebarrels，likeaBacchusofprivatelife；andpullingagreatclasp-knifeoutofhispocket，beganto"whittle"itashetalked，byparingthinslicesofftheedges。Andhewhittledwithsuchindustryandheartygoodwill，thatbutforhisbeingcalledawayverysoon，itmusthavedisappearedbodily，andleftnothinginitsplacebutgristandshavings。

Aftercallingatoneortwoflatplaces，withlowdamsstretchingoutintothelake，whereonwerestumpylighthouses，likewindmillswithoutsails，thewholelookinglikeaDutchvignette，wecameatmidnighttoCleveland，wherewelayallnight，anduntilnineo"clocknextmorning。

Ientertainedquiteacuriosityinreferencetothisplace，fromhavingseenatSanduskyaspecimenofitsliteratureintheshapeofanewspaper，whichwasverystrongindeeduponthesubjectofLordAshburton"srecentarrivalatWashington，toadjustthepointsindisputebetweentheUnitedStatesGovernmentandGreatBritain:

informingitsreadersthatasAmericahad"whipped"Englandinherinfancy，andwhippedheragaininheryouth，soitwasclearlynecessarythatshemustwhipheronceagaininhermaturity；andpledgingitscredittoallTrueAmericans，thatifMr。Websterdidhisdutyintheapproachingnegotiations，andsenttheEnglishLordhomeagainindoublequicktime，theyshould，withintwoyears，sing"YankeeDoodleinHydePark，andHailColumbiainthescarletcourtsofWestminster!"Ifounditaprettytown，andhadthesatisfactionofbeholdingtheoutsideoftheofficeofthejournalfromwhichIhavejustquoted。Ididnotenjoythedelightofseeingthewitwhoinditedtheparagraphinquestion，butIhavenodoubtheisaprodigiousmaninhisway，andheldinhighreputebyaselectcircle。

Therewasagentlemanonboard，towhom，asIunintentionallylearnedthroughthethinpartitionwhichdividedourstate-roomfromthecabininwhichheandhiswifeconversedtogether，Iwasunwittinglytheoccasionofverygreatuneasiness。Idon"tknowwhyorwherefore，butIappearedtoruninhismindperpetually，andtodissatisfyhimverymuch。FirstofallIheardhimsay:

andthemostludicrouspartofthebusinesswas，thathesaiditinmyveryear，andcouldnothavecommunicatedmoredirectlywithme，ifhehadleaneduponmyshoulder，andwhisperedme:"Bozisonboardstill，mydear。"Afteraconsiderablepause，headded，complainingly，"Bozkeepshimselfveryclose；"whichwastrueenough，forIwasnotverywell，andwaslyingdown，withabook。

Ithoughthehaddonewithmeafterthis，butIwasdeceived；foralongintervalhavingelapsed，duringwhichIimaginehimtohavebeenturningrestlesslyfromsidetoside，andtryingtogotosleep；hebrokeoutagain，with"IsupposeTHATBozwillbewritingabookby-and-by，andputtingallournamesinit!"atwhichimaginaryconsequenceofbeingonboardaboatwithBoz，hegroaned，andbecamesilent。

WecalledatthetownofErie，ateighto"clockthatnight，andlaythereanhour。Betweenfiveandsixnextmorning，wearrivedatBuffalo，wherewebreakfasted；andbeingtooneartheGreatFallstowaitpatientlyanywhereelse，wesetoffbythetrain，thesamemorningatnineo"clock，toNiagara。

Itwasamiserableday；chillyandraw；adampmistfalling；andthetreesinthatnorthernregionquitebareandwintry。Wheneverthetrainhalted，Ilistenedfortheroar；andwasconstantlystrainingmyeyesinthedirectionwhereIknewtheFallsmustbe，fromseeingtheriverrollingontowardsthem；everymomentexpectingtobeholdthespray。Withinafewminutesofourstopping，notbefore，Isawtwogreatwhitecloudsrisingupslowlyandmajesticallyfromthedepthsoftheearth。Thatwasall。Atlengthwealighted:andthenforthefirsttime，Iheardthemightyrushofwater，andfeltthegroundtrembleunderneathmyfeet。

Thebankisverysteep，andwasslipperywithrain，andhalf-meltedice。IhardlyknowhowIgotdown，butIwassoonatthebottom，andclimbing，withtwoEnglishofficerswhowerecrossingandhadjoinedme，oversomebrokenrocks，deafenedbythenoise，half-

blindedbythespray，andwettotheskin。WewereatthefootoftheAmericanFall。Icouldseeanimmensetorrentofwatertearingheadlongdownfromsomegreatheight，buthadnoideaofshape，orsituation，oranythingbutvagueimmensity。

Whenwewereseatedinthelittleferry-boat，andwerecrossingtheswollenriverimmediatelybeforebothcataracts，Ibegantofeelwhatitwas:butIwasinamannerstunned，andunabletocomprehendthevastnessofthescene。ItwasnotuntilIcameonTableRock，andlooked-GreatHeaven，onwhatafallofbright-

greenwater!-thatitcameuponmeinitsfullmightandmajesty。

Then，whenIfelthowneartomyCreatorIwasstanding，thefirsteffect，andtheenduringone-instantandlasting-ofthetremendousspectacle，wasPeace。PeaceofMind，tranquillity，calmrecollectionsoftheDead，greatthoughtsofEternalRestandHappiness:nothingofgloomorterror。Niagarawasatoncestampeduponmyheart，anImageofBeauty；toremainthere，changelessandindelible，untilitspulsesceasetobeat，forever。

Oh，howthestrifeandtroubleofdailyliferecededfrommyview，andlessenedinthedistance，duringthetenmemorabledayswepassedonthatEnchantedGround!Whatvoicesspokefromoutthethunderingwater；whatfaces，fadedfromtheearth，lookedoutuponmefromitsgleamingdepths；whatHeavenlypromiseglistenedinthoseangels"tears，thedropsofmanyhues，thatshoweredaround，andtwinedthemselvesaboutthegorgeousarcheswhichthechangingrainbowsmade!

IneverstirredinallthattimefromtheCanadianside，whitherI

hadgoneatfirst。Inevercrossedtheriveragain；forIknewtherewerepeopleontheothershore，andinsuchaplaceitisnaturaltoshunstrangecompany。Towandertoandfroallday，andseethecataractsfromallpointsofview；tostandupontheedgeofthegreatHorse-ShoeFall，markingthehurriedwatergatheringstrengthasitapproachedtheverge，yetseeming，too，topausebeforeitshotintothegulfbelow；togazefromtheriver"slevelupatthetorrentasitcamestreamingdown；toclimbtheneighbouringheightsandwatchitthroughthetrees，andseethewreathingwaterintherapidshurryingontotakeitsfearfulplunge；tolingerintheshadowofthesolemnrocksthreemilesbelow；watchingtheriveras，stirredbynovisiblecause，itheavedandeddiedandawoketheechoes，beingtroubledyet，fardownbeneaththesurface，byitsgiantleap；tohaveNiagarabeforeme，lightedbythesunandbythemoon，redintheday"sdecline，andgreyaseveningslowlyfelluponit；tolookuponiteveryday，andwakeupinthenightandhearitsceaselessvoice:thiswasenough。

Ithinkineveryquietseasonnow，stilldothosewatersrollandleap，androarandtumble，alldaylong；stillaretherainbowsspanningthem，ahundredfeetbelow。Still，whenthesunisonthem，dotheyshineandglowlikemoltengold。Still，whenthedayisgloomy，dotheyfalllikesnow，orseemtocrumbleawaylikethefrontofagreatchalkcliff，orrolldowntherocklikedensewhitesmoke。Butalwaysdoesthemightystreamappeartodieasitcomesdown，andalwaysfromitsunfathomablegravearisesthattremendousghostofsprayandmistwhichisneverlaid:whichhashauntedthisplacewiththesamedreadsolemnitysinceDarknessbroodedonthedeep，andthatfirstfloodbeforetheDeluge-Light-camerushingonCreationatthewordofGod。

CHAPTERXV-INCANADA；TORONTO；KINGSTON；MONTREAL；QUEBEC；ST。

JOHN"S。INTHEUNITEDSTATESAGAIN；LEBANON；THESHAKERVILLAGE；

WESTPOINT

Iwishtoabstainfrominstitutinganycomparison，ordrawinganyparallelwhatever，betweenthesocialfeaturesoftheUnitedStatesandthoseoftheBritishPossessionsinCanada。Forthisreason，I

shallconfinemyselftoaverybriefaccountofourjourneyingsinthelatterterritory。

ButbeforeIleaveNiagara，ImustadverttoonedisgustingcircumstancewhichcanhardlyhaveescapedtheobservationofanydecenttravellerwhohasvisitedtheFalls。

OnTableRock，thereisacottagebelongingtoaGuide，wherelittlerelicsoftheplacearesold，andwherevisitorsregistertheirnamesinabookkeptforthepurpose。Onthewalloftheroominwhichagreatmanyofthesevolumesarepreserved，thefollowingrequestisposted:"Visitorswillpleasenotcopynorextracttheremarksandpoeticaleffusionsfromtheregistersandalbumskepthere。"

Butforthisintimation，Ishouldhaveletthemlieuponthetablesonwhichtheywerestrewnwithcarefulnegligence，likebooksinadrawing-room:beingquitesatisfiedwiththestupendoussillinessofcertainstanzaswithananti-climaxattheendofeach，whichwereframedandhunguponthewall。Curious，however，afterreadingthisannouncement，toseewhatkindofmorselsweresocarefullypreserved，Iturnedafewleaves，andfoundthemscrawledalloverwiththevilestandthefilthiestribaldrythateverhumanhogsdelightedin。

Itishumiliatingenoughtoknowthatthereareamongmenbrutessoobsceneandworthless，thattheycandelightinlayingtheirmiserableprofanationsupontheverystepsofNature"sgreatestaltar。Butthattheseshouldbehoardedupforthedelightoftheirfellow-swine，andkeptinapublicplacewhereanyeyesmayseethem，isadisgracetotheEnglishlanguageinwhichtheyarewritten(thoughIhopefewoftheseentrieshavebeenmadebyEnglishmen)，andareproachtotheEnglishside，onwhichtheyarepreserved。

ThequartersofoursoldiersatNiagara，arefinelyandairilysituated。SomeofthemarelargedetachedhousesontheplainabovetheFalls，whichwereoriginallydesignedforhotels；andintheeveningtime，whenthewomenandchildrenwereleaningoverthebalconieswatchingthemenastheyplayedatballandothergamesuponthegrassbeforethedoor，theyoftenpresentedalittlepictureofcheerfulnessandanimationwhichmadeitquiteapleasuretopassthatway。

AtanygarrisonedpointwherethelineofdemarcationbetweenonecountryandanotherissoverynarrowasatNiagara，desertionfromtherankscanscarcelyfailtobeoffrequentoccurrence:anditmaybereasonablysupposedthatwhenthesoldiersentertainthewildestandmaddesthopesofthefortuneandindependencethatawaitthemontheotherside，theimpulsetoplaytraitor，whichsuchaplacesuggeststodishonestminds，isnotweakened。Butitveryrarelyhappensthatthemenwhododesert，arehappyorcontentedafterwards；andmanyinstanceshavebeenknowninwhichtheyhaveconfessedtheirgrievousdisappointment，andtheirearnestdesiretoreturntotheiroldserviceiftheycouldbutbeassuredofpardon，orlenienttreatment。Manyoftheircomrades，notwithstanding，dothelike，fromtimetotime；andinstancesoflossoflifeintheefforttocrosstheriverwiththisobject，arefarfrombeinguncommon。Severalmenweredrownedintheattempttoswimacross，notlongago；andone，whohadthemadnesstotrusthimselfuponatableasaraft，wassweptdowntothewhirlpool，wherehismangledbodyeddiedroundandroundsomedays。

IaminclinedtothinkthatthenoiseoftheFallsisverymuchexaggerated；andthiswillappearthemoreprobablewhenthedepthofthegreatbasininwhichthewaterisreceived，istakenintoaccount。Atnotimeduringourstaythere，wasthewindatallhighorboisterous，butweneverheardthem，threemilesoff，evenattheveryquiettimeofsunset，thoughweoftentried。

Queenston，atwhichplacethesteamboatsstartforToronto(orI

shouldrathersayatwhichplacetheycall，fortheirwharfisatLewiston，ontheoppositeshore)，issituatedinadeliciousvalley，throughwhichtheNiagarariver，incolouraverydeepgreen，pursuesitscourse。Itisapproachedbyaroadthattakesitswindingwayamongtheheightsbywhichthetownissheltered；

andseenfromthispointisextremelybeautifulandpicturesque。

OnthemostconspicuousoftheseheightsstoodamonumenterectedbytheProvincialLegislatureinmemoryofGeneralBrock，whowasslaininabattlewiththeAmericanforces，afterhavingwonthevictory。Somevagabond，supposedtobeafellowofthenameofLett，whoisnow，orwholatelywas，inprisonasafelon，blewupthismonumenttwoyearsago，anditisnowamelancholyruin，withalongfragmentofironrailinghangingdejectedlyfromitstop，andwavingtoandfrolikeawildivybranchorbrokenvinestem。

Itisofmuchhigherimportancethanitmayseem，thatthisstatueshouldberepairedatthepubliccost，asitoughttohavebeenlongago。Firstly，becauseitisbeneaththedignityofEnglandtoallowamemorialraisedinhonourofoneofherdefenders，toremaininthiscondition，ontheveryspotwherehedied。

Secondly，becausethesightofitinitspresentstate，andtherecollectionoftheunpunishedoutragewhichbroughtittothispass，isnotverylikelytosoothedownborderfeelingsamongEnglishsubjectshere，orcomposetheirborderquarrelsanddislikes。

Iwasstandingonthewharfatthisplace，watchingthepassengersembarkinginasteamboatwhichprecededthatwhosecomingweawaited，andparticipatingintheanxietywithwhichasergeant"swifewascollectingherfewgoodstogether-keepingonedistractedeyehardupontheporters，whowerehurryingthemonboard，andtheotheronahooplesswashing-tubforwhich，asbeingthemostutterlyworthlessofallhermovables，sheseemedtoentertainparticularaffection-whenthreeorfoursoldierswitharecruitcameupandwentonboard。

Therecruitwasalikelyyoungfellowenough，stronglybuiltandwellmade，butbynomeanssober:indeedhehadalltheairofamanwhohadbeenmoreorlessdrunkforsomedays。Hecarriedasmallbundleoverhisshoulder，slungattheendofawalking-

stick，andhadashortpipeinhismouth。Hewasasdustyanddirtyasrecruitsusuallyare，andhisshoesbetokenedthathehadtravelledonfootsomedistance，buthewasinaveryjocosestate，andshookhandswiththissoldier，andclappedthatoneontheback，andtalkedandlaughedcontinually，likearoaringidledogashewas。

Thesoldiersratherlaughedatthisbladethanwithhim:seemingtosay，astheystoodstraighteningtheircanesintheirhands，andlookingcoollyathimovertheirglazedstocks，"Goon，myboy，whileyoumay!you"llknowbetterby-and-by:"whensuddenlythenovice，whohadbeenbackingtowardsthegangwayinhisnoisymerriment，felloverboardbeforetheireyes，andsplashedheavilydownintotheriverbetweenthevesselandthedock。

Ineversawsuchagoodthingasthechangethatcameoverthesesoldiersinaninstant。Almostbeforethemanwasdown，theirprofessionalmanner，theirstiffnessandconstraint，weregone，andtheywerefilledwiththemostviolentenergy。Inlesstimethanisrequiredtotellit，theyhadhimoutagain，feetfirst，withthetailsofhiscoatflappingoverhiseyes，everythingabouthimhangingthewrongway，andthewaterstreamingoffateverythreadinhisthreadbaredress。Butthemomenttheysethimuprightandfoundthathewasnonetheworse，theyweresoldiersagain，lookingovertheirglazedstocksmorecomposedlythanever。

Thehalf-soberedrecruitglancedroundforamoment，asifhisfirstimpulseweretoexpresssomegratitudeforhispreservation，butseeingthemwiththisairoftotalunconcern，andhavinghiswetpipepresentedtohimwithanoathbythesoldierwhohadbeenbyfarthemostanxiousoftheparty，hestuckitinhismouth，thrusthishandsintohismoistpockets，andwithoutevenshakingthewateroffhisclothes，walkedonboardwhistling；nottosayasifnothinghadhappened，butasifhehadmeanttodoit，andithadbeenaperfectsuccess。

Oursteamboatcameupdirectlythishadleftthewharf，andsoonboreustothemouthoftheNiagara；wherethestarsandstripesofAmericaflutterononesideandtheUnionJackofEnglandontheother:andsonarrowisthespacebetweenthemthatthesentinelsineitherfortcanoftenhearthewatchwordoftheothercountrygiven。ThenceweemergedonLakeOntario，aninlandsea；andbyhalf-pastsixo"clockwereatToronto。

Thecountryroundthistownbeingveryflat，isbareofscenicinterest；butthetownitselfisfulloflifeandmotion，bustle，business，andimprovement。Thestreetsarewellpaved，andlightedwithgas；thehousesarelargeandgood；theshopsexcellent。Manyofthemhaveadisplayofgoodsintheirwindows，suchasmaybeseeninthrivingcountytownsinEngland；andtherearesomewhichwoulddonodiscredittothemetropolisitself。Thereisagoodstoneprisonhere；andthereare，besides，ahandsomechurch，acourt-house，publicoffices，manycommodiousprivateresidences，andagovernmentobservatoryfornotingandrecordingthemagneticvariations。IntheCollegeofUpperCanada，whichisoneofthepublicestablishmentsofthecity，asoundeducationineverydepartmentofpolitelearningcanbehad，ataverymoderateexpense:theannualchargefortheinstructionofeachpupil，notexceedingninepoundssterling。Ithasprettygoodendowmentsinthewayofland，andisavaluableandusefulinstitution。

Thefirststoneofanewcollegehadbeenlaidbutafewdaysbefore，bytheGovernorGeneral。Itwillbeahandsome，spaciousedifice，approachedbyalongavenue，whichisalreadyplantedandmadeavailableasapublicwalk。Thetowniswelladaptedforwholesomeexerciseatallseasons，forthefootwaysinthethoroughfareswhichliebeyondtheprincipalstreet，areplankedlikefloors，andkeptinverygoodandcleanrepair。

Itisamatterofdeepregretthatpoliticaldifferencesshouldhaverunhighinthisplace，andledtomostdiscreditableanddisgracefulresults。Itisnotlongsincegunsweredischargedfromawindowinthistownatthesuccessfulcandidatesinanelection，andthecoachmanofoneofthemwasactuallyshotinthebody，thoughnotdangerouslywounded。Butonemanwaskilledonthesameoccasion；andfromtheverywindowwhencehereceivedhisdeath，theveryflagwhichshieldedhismurderer(notonlyinthecommissionofhiscrime，butfromitsconsequences)，wasdisplayedagainontheoccasionofthepublicceremonyperformedbytheGovernorGeneral，towhichIhavejustadverted。Ofallthecoloursintherainbow，thereisbutonewhichcouldbesoemployed:Ineednotsaythatflagwasorange。

ThetimeofleavingTorontoforKingstonisnoon。Byeighto"clocknextmorning，thetravellerisattheendofhisjourney，whichisperformedbysteamboatuponLakeOntario，callingatPortHopeandCoburg，thelatteracheerful，thrivinglittletown。Vastquantitiesofflourformthechiefiteminthefreightofthesevessels。Wehadnofewerthanonethousandandeightybarrelsonboard，betweenCoburgandKingston。

Thelatterplace，whichisnowtheseatofgovernmentinCanada，isaverypoortown，renderedstillpoorerintheappearanceofitsmarket-placebytheravagesofarecentfire。Indeed，itmaybesaidofKingston，thatonehalfofitappearstobeburntdown，andtheotherhalfnottobebuiltup。TheGovernmentHouseisneitherelegantnorcommodious，yetitisalmosttheonlyhouseofanyimportanceintheneighbourhood。

Thereisanadmirablejailhere，wellandwiselygoverned，andexcellentlyregulated，ineveryrespect。Themenwereemployedasshoemakers，ropemakers，blacksmiths，tailors，carpenters，andstonecutters；andinbuildinganewprison，whichwasprettyfaradvancedtowardscompletion。Thefemaleprisonerswereoccupiedinneedlework。Amongthemwasabeautifulgirloftwenty，whohadbeentherenearlythreeyears。Sheactedasbearerofsecretdespatchesfortheself-styledPatriotsonNavyIsland，duringtheCanadianInsurrection:sometimesdressingasagirl，andcarryingtheminherstays；sometimesattiringherselfasaboy，andsecretingthemintheliningofherhat。Inthelattercharactershealwaysrodeasaboywould，whichwasnothingtoher，forshecouldgovernanyhorsethatanymancouldride，andcoulddrivefour-in-handwiththebestwhipinthoseparts。Settingforthononeofherpatrioticmissions，sheappropriatedtoherselfthefirsthorseshecouldlayherhandson；andthisoffencehadbroughtherwhereIsawher。Shehadquitealovelyface，though，asthereadermaysupposefromthissketchofherhistory，therewasalurkingdevilinherbrighteye，whichlookedoutprettysharplyfrombetweenherprisonbars。

Thereisabomb-proofforthereofgreatstrength，whichoccupiesaboldposition，andiscapable，doubtless，ofdoinggoodservice；

thoughthetownismuchtoocloseuponthefrontiertobelongheld，Ishouldimagine，foritspresentpurposeintroubledtimes。

Thereisalsoasmallnavy-yard，whereacoupleofGovernmentsteamboatswerebuilding，andgettingonvigorously。

WeleftKingstonforMontrealonthetenthofMay，athalf-pastnineinthemorning，andproceededinasteamboatdowntheSt。

Lawrenceriver。Thebeautyofthisnoblestreamatalmostanypoint，butespeciallyinthecommencementofthisjourneywhenitwindsitswayamongthethousandIslands，canhardlybeimagined。

Thenumberandconstantsuccessionsoftheseislands，allgreenandrichlywooded；theirfluctuatingsizes，somesolargethatforhalfanhourtogetheroneamongthemwillappearastheoppositebankoftheriver，andsomesosmallthattheyaremeredimplesonitsbroadbosom；theirinfinitevarietyofshapes；andthenumberlesscombinationsofbeautifulformswhichthetreesgrowingonthempresent:allformapicturefraughtwithuncommoninterestandpleasure。

Intheafternoonweshotdownsomerapidswheretheriverboiledandbubbledstrangely，andwheretheforceandheadlongviolenceofthecurrentweretremendous。Atseveno"clockwereachedDickenson"sLanding，whencetravellersproceedfortwoorthreehoursbystage-coach:thenavigationoftheriverbeingrenderedsodangerousanddifficultintheinterval，byrapids，thatsteamboatsdonotmakethepassage。ThenumberandlengthofthosePORTAGES，overwhichtheroadsarebad，andthetravellingslow，renderthewaybetweenthetownsofMontrealandKingston，somewhattedious。

Ourcourselayoverawide，uninclosedtractofcountryatalittledistancefromtheriver-side，whencethebrightwarninglightsonthedangerouspartsoftheSt。Lawrenceshonevividly。Thenightwasdarkandraw，andthewaydrearyenough。Itwasnearlyteno"clockwhenwereachedthewharfwherethenextsteamboatlay；andwentonboard，andtobed。

Shelaythereallnight，andstartedassoonasitwasday。Themorningwasusheredinbyaviolentthunderstorm，andwasverywet，butgraduallyimprovedandbrightenedup。Goingondeckafterbreakfast，Iwasamazedtoseefloatingdownwiththestream，amostgiganticraft，withsomethirtyorfortywoodenhousesuponit，andatleastasmanyflag-masts，sothatitlookedlikeanauticalstreet。Isawmanyoftheseraftsafterwards，butneveronesolarge。Allthetimber，or"lumber，"asitiscalledinAmerica，whichisbroughtdowntheSt。Lawrence，isfloateddowninthismanner。Whentheraftreachesitsplaceofdestination，itisbrokenup；thematerialsaresold；andtheboatmenreturnformore。

Ateightwelandedagain，andtravelledbyastage-coachforfourhoursthroughapleasantandwell-cultivatedcountry，perfectlyFrenchineveryrespect:intheappearanceofthecottages；theair，language，anddressofthepeasantry；thesign-boardsontheshopsandtaverns:andtheVirgin"sshrines，andcrosses，bythewayside。Nearlyeverycommonlabourerandboy，thoughhehadnoshoestohisfeet，woreroundhiswaistasashofsomebrightcolour:generallyred:andthewomen，whowereworkinginthefieldsandgardens，anddoingallkindsofhusbandry，wore，oneandall，greatflatstrawhatswithmostcapaciousbrims。TherewereCatholicPriestsandSistersofCharityinthevillagestreets；andimagesoftheSaviouratthecornersofcross-roads，andinotherpublicplaces。

Atnoonwewentonboardanothersteamboat，andreachedthevillageofLachine，ninemilesfromMontreal，bythreeo"clock。There，welefttheriver，andwentonbyland。

MontrealispleasantlysituatedonthemarginoftheSt。Lawrence，andisbackedbysomeboldheights，aboutwhichtherearecharmingridesanddrives。Thestreetsaregenerallynarrowandirregular，asinmostFrenchtownsofanyage；butinthemoremodernpartsofthecity，theyarewideandairy。Theydisplayagreatvarietyofverygoodshops；andbothinthetownandsuburbstherearemanyexcellentprivatedwellings。Thegranitequaysareremarkablefortheirbeauty，solidity，andextent。

ThereisaverylargeCatholiccathedralhere，recentlyerectedwithtwotallspires，ofwhichoneisyetunfinished。Intheopenspaceinfrontofthisedifice，standsasolitary，grim-looking，squarebricktower，whichhasaquaintandremarkableappearance，andwhichthewiseacresoftheplacehaveconsequentlydeterminedtopulldownimmediately。TheGovernmentHouseisverysuperiortothatatKingston，andthetownisfulloflifeandbustle。Inoneofthesuburbsisaplankroad-notfootpath-fiveorsixmileslong，andafamousroaditistoo。Alltheridesinthevicinityweremadedoublyinterestingbytheburstingoutofspring，whichisheresorapid，thatitisbutaday"sleapfrombarrenwinter，tothebloomingyouthofsummer。

ThesteamboatstoQuebecperformthejourneyinthenight；thatistosay，theyleaveMontrealatsixintheevening，andarriveatQuebecatsixnextmorning。WemadethisexcursionduringourstayinMontreal(whichexceededafortnight)，andwerecharmedbyitsinterestandbeauty。

TheimpressionmadeuponthevisitorbythisGibraltarofAmerica:

itsgiddyheights；itscitadelsuspended，asitwere，intheair；

itspicturesquesteepstreetsandfrowninggateways；andthesplendidviewswhichburstupontheeyeateveryturn:isatonceuniqueandlasting。

Itisaplacenottobeforgottenormixedupinthemindwithotherplaces，oralteredforamomentinthecrowdofscenesatravellercanrecall。Apartfromtherealitiesofthismostpicturesquecity，thereareassociationsclusteringaboutitwhichwouldmakeadesertrichininterest。Thedangerousprecipicealongwhoserockyfront，Wolfeandhisbravecompanionsclimbedtoglory；thePlainsofAbraham，wherehereceivedhismortalwound；

thefortresssochivalrouslydefendedbyMontcalm；andhissoldier"sgrave，dugforhimwhileyetalive，bytheburstingofashell；arenottheleastamongthem，oramongthegallantincidentsofhistory。ThatisanobleMonumenttoo，andworthyoftwogreatnations，whichperpetuatesthememoryofbothbravegenerals，andonwhichtheirnamesarejointlywritten。

ThecityisrichinpublicinstitutionsandinCatholicchurchesandcharities，butitismainlyintheprospectfromthesiteoftheOldGovernmentHouse，andfromtheCitadel，thatitssurpassingbeautylies。Theexquisiteexpanseofcountry，richinfieldandforest，mountain-heightandwater，whichliesstretchedoutbeforetheview，withmilesofCanadianvillages，glancinginlongwhitestreaks，likeveinsalongthelandscape；themotleycrowdofgables，roofs，andchimneytopsintheoldhillytownimmediatelyathand；thebeautifulSt。Lawrencesparklingandflashinginthesunlight；andthetinyshipsbelowtherockfromwhichyougaze，whosedistantrigginglookslikespiders"websagainstthelight，whilecasksandbarrelsontheirdecksdwindleintotoys，andbusymarinersbecomesomanypuppets；allthis，framedbyasunkenwindowinthefortressandlookedatfromtheshadowedroomwithin，formsoneofthebrightestandmostenchantingpicturesthattheeyecanrestupon。

Inthespringoftheyear，vastnumbersofemigrantswhohavenewlyarrivedfromEnglandorfromIreland，passbetweenQuebecandMontrealontheirwaytothebackwoodsandnewsettlementsofCanada。Ifitbeanentertaininglounge(asIveryoftenfoundit)

totakeamorningstrolluponthequayatMontreal，andseethemgroupedinhundredsonthepublicwharfsabouttheirchestsandboxes，itismatterofdeepinteresttobetheirfellow-passengerononeofthesesteamboats，andminglingwiththeconcourse，seeandhearthemunobserved。

ThevesselinwhichwereturnedfromQuebectoMontrealwascrowdedwiththem，andatnighttheyspreadtheirbedsbetweendecks(thosewhohadbeds，atleast)，andsleptsocloseandthickaboutourcabindoor，thatthepassagetoandfrowasquiteblockedup。TheywerenearlyallEnglish；fromGloucestershirethegreaterpart；andhadhadalongwinter-passageout；butitwaswonderfultoseehowcleanthechildrenhadbeenkept，andhowuntiringintheirloveandself-denialallthepoorparentswere。

Cantaswemay，andasweshalltotheendofallthings，itisverymuchharderforthepoortobevirtuousthanitisfortherich；andthegoodthatisinthem，shinesthebrighterforit。Inmanyanoblemansionlivesaman，thebestofhusbandsandoffathers，whoseprivateworthinbothcapacitiesisjustlylaudedtotheskies。Butbringhimhere，uponthiscrowdeddeck。Stripfromhisfairyoungwifehersilkendressandjewels，unbindherbraidedhair，stampearlywrinklesonherbrow，pinchherpalecheekwithcareandmuchprivation，arrayherfadedformincoarselypatchedattire，lettherebenothingbuthislovetosetherforthordeckherout，andyoushallputittotheproofindeed。Sochangehisstationintheworld，thatheshallseeinthoseyoungthingswhoclimbabouthisknee:notrecordsofhiswealthandname:butlittlewrestlerswithhimforhisdailybread；somanypoachersonhisscantymeal；somanyunitstodividehiseverysumofcomfort，andfarthertoreduceitssmallamount。Inlieuoftheendearmentsofchildhoodinitssweetestaspect，heapuponhimallitspainsandwants，itssicknessesandills，itsfretfulness，caprice，andquerulousendurance:letitsprattlebe，notofengaginginfantfancies，butofcold，andthirst，andhunger:andifhisfatherlyaffectionoutliveallthis，andhebepatient，watchful，tender；

carefulofhischildren"slives，andmindfulalwaysoftheirjoysandsorrows；thensendhimbacktoParliament，andPulpit，andtoQuarterSessions，andwhenhehearsfinetalkofthedepravityofthosewholivefromhandtomouth，andlabourhardtodoit，lethimspeakup，asonewhoknows，andtellthoseholdersforththatthey，byparallelwithsuchaclass，shouldbeHighAngelsintheirdailylives，andlaybuthumblesiegetoHeavenatlast。

Whichofusshallsaywhathewouldbe，ifsuchrealities，withsmallrelieforchangeallthroughhisdays，werehis!Lookingrounduponthesepeople:farfromhome，houseless，indigent，wandering，wearywithtravelandhardliving:andseeinghowpatientlytheynursedandtendedtheiryoungchildren:howtheyconsultedevertheirwantsfirst，thenhalfsuppliedtheirown；

whatgentleministersofhopeandfaiththewomenwere；howthemenprofitedbytheirexample；andhowvery，veryseldomevenamoment"spetulanceorharshcomplaintbrokeoutamongthem:Ifeltastrongerloveandhonourofmykindcomeglowingonmyheart，andwishedtoGodtherehadbeenmanyAtheistsinthebetterpartofhumannaturethere，toreadthissimplelessoninthebookofLife。

WeleftMontrealforNewYorkagain，onthethirtiethofMay，crossingtoLaPrairie，ontheoppositeshoreoftheSt。Lawrence，inasteamboat；wethentooktherailroadtoSt。John"s，whichisonthebrinkofLakeChamplain。OurlastgreetinginCanadawasfromtheEnglishofficersinthepleasantbarracksatthatplace(aclassofgentlemenwhohadmadeeveryhourofourvisitmemorablebytheirhospitalityandfriendship)；andwith"RuleBritannia"

soundinginourears，soonleftitfarbehind。

ButCanadahasheld，andalwayswillretain，aforemostplaceinmyremembrance。FewEnglishmenarepreparedtofinditwhatitis。

Advancingquietly；olddifferencessettlingdown，andbeingfastforgotten；publicfeelingandprivateenterprisealikeinasoundandwholesomestate；nothingofflushorfeverinitssystem，buthealthandvigourthrobbinginitssteadypulse:itisfullofhopeandpromise。Tome-whohadbeenaccustomedtothinkofitassomethingleftbehindinthestridesofadvancingsociety，assomethingneglectedandforgotten，slumberingandwastinginitssleep-thedemandforlabourandtheratesofwages；thebusyquaysofMontreal；thevesselstakingintheircargoes，anddischargingthem；theamountofshippinginthedifferentports；