第13章

thecommerce，roads，andpublicworks，allmadeTOLAST；therespectabilityandcharacterofthepublicjournals；andtheamountofrationalcomfortandhappinesswhichhonestindustrymayearn:

wereverygreatsurprises。Thesteamboatsonthelakes，intheirconveniences，cleanliness，andsafety；inthegentlemanlycharacterandbearingoftheircaptains；andinthepolitenessandperfectcomfortoftheirsocialregulations；areunsurpassedevenbythefamousScotchvessels，deservedlysomuchesteemedathome。Theinnsareusuallybad；becausethecustomofboardingathotelsisnotsogeneralhereasintheStates，andtheBritishofficers，whoformalargeportionofthesocietyofeverytown，livechieflyattheregimentalmesses:butineveryotherrespect，thetravellerinCanadawillfindasgoodprovisionforhiscomfortasinanyplaceIknow。

ThereisoneAmericanboat-thevesselwhichcarriedusonLakeChamplain，fromSt。John"stoWhitehall-whichIpraiseveryhighly，butnomorethanitdeserves，whenIsaythatitissuperioreventothatinwhichwewentfromQueenstontoToronto，ortothatinwhichwetravelledfromthelatterplacetoKingston，orIhavenodoubtImayaddtoanyotherintheworld。Thissteamboat，whichiscalledtheBurlington，isaperfectlyexquisiteachievementofneatness，elegance，andorder。Thedecksaredrawing-rooms；thecabinsareboudoirs，choicelyfurnishedandadornedwithprints，pictures，andmusicalinstruments；everynookandcornerinthevesselisaperfectcuriosityofgracefulcomfortandbeautifulcontrivance。CaptainSherman，hercommander，towhoseingenuityandexcellenttastetheseresultsaresolelyattributable，hasbravelyandworthilydistinguishedhimselfonmorethanonetryingoccasion:notleastamongthem，inhavingthemoralcouragetocarryBritishtroops，atatime(duringtheCanadianrebellion)whennootherconveyancewasopentothem。Heandhisvesselareheldinuniversalrespect，bothbyhisowncountrymenandours；andnomaneverenjoyedthepopularesteem，who，inhissphereofaction，wonandworeitbetterthanthisgentleman。

BymeansofthisfloatingpalaceweweresoonintheUnitedStatesagain，andcalledthateveningatBurlington；aprettytown，wherewelayanhourorso。WereachedWhitehall，whereweweretodisembark，atsixnextmorning；andmighthavedonesoearlier，butthatthesesteamboatsliebyforsomehoursinthenight，inconsequenceofthelakebecomingverynarrowatthatpartofthejourney，anddifficultofnavigationinthedark。Itswidthissocontractedatonepoint，indeed，thattheyareobligedtowarproundbymeansofarope。

AfterbreakfastingatWhitehall，wetookthestage-coachforAlbany:alargeandbusytown，wherewearrivedbetweenfiveandsixo"clockthatafternoon；afteraveryhotday"sjourney，forwewerenowintheheightofsummeragain。AtsevenwestartedforNewYorkonboardagreatNorthRiversteamboat，whichwassocrowdedwithpassengersthattheupperdeckwasliketheboxlobbyofatheatrebetweenthepieces，andtheloweronelikeTottenhamCourtRoadonaSaturdaynight。Butwesleptsoundly，notwithstanding，andsoonafterfiveo"clocknextmorningreachedNewYork。

Tarryinghere，onlythatdayandnight，torecruitafterourlatefatigues，westartedoffoncemoreuponourlastjourneyinAmerica。WehadyetfivedaystosparebeforeembarkingforEngland，andIhadagreatdesiretosee"theShakerVillage，"

whichispeopledbyareligioussectfromwhomittakesitsname。

Tothisend，wewentuptheNorthRiveragain，asfarasthetownofHudson，andtherehiredanextratocarryustoLebanon，thirtymilesdistant:andofcourseanotherandadifferentLebanonfromthatvillagewhereIsleptonthenightofthePrairietrip。

Thecountrythroughwhichtheroadmeandered，wasrichandbeautiful；theweatherveryfine；andformanymilestheKaatskillmountains，whereRipVanWinkleandtheghostlyDutchmenplayedatninepinsonememorablegustyafternoon，toweredinthebluedistance，likestatelyclouds。Atonepoint，asweascendedasteephill，athwartwhosebasearailroad，yetconstructing，tookitscourse，wecameuponanIrishcolony。Withmeansathandofbuildingdecentcabins，itwaswonderfultoseehowclumsy，rough，andwretched，itshovelswere。Thebestwerepoorprotectionfromtheweathertheworstletinthewindandrainthroughwidebreachesintheroofsofsoddengrass，andinthewallsofmud；

somehadneitherdoornorwindow；somehadnearlyfallendown，andwereimperfectlyproppedupbystakesandpoles；allwereruinousandfilthy。Hideouslyuglyoldwomenandverybuxomyoungones，pigs，dogs，men，children，babies，pots，kettles，dung-hills，vilerefuse，rankstraw，andstandingwater，allwallowingtogetherinaninseparableheap，composedthefurnitureofeverydarkanddirtyhut。

Betweennineandteno"clockatnight，wearrivedatLebanonwhichisrenownedforitswarmbaths，andforagreathotel，welladapted，Ihavenodoubt，tothegregarioustasteofthoseseekersafterhealthorpleasurewhorepairhere，butinexpressiblycomfortlesstome。Wewereshownintoanimmenseapartment，lightedbytwodimcandles，calledthedrawing-room:fromwhichtherewasadescentbyaflightofsteps，toanothervastdesert，calledthedining-room:ourbed-chamberswereamongcertainlongrowsoflittlewhite-washedcells，whichopenedfromeithersideofadrearypassage；andweresolikeroomsinaprisonthatIhalfexpectedtobelockedupwhenIwenttobed，andlistenedinvoluntarilyfortheturningofthekeyontheoutside。Thereneedbebathssomewhereintheneighbourhood，fortheotherwashingarrangementswereonaslimitedascaleasIeversaw，eveninAmerica:indeed，thesebedroomsweresoverybareofevensuchcommonluxuriesaschairs，thatIshouldsaytheywerenotprovidedwithenoughofanything，butthatIbethinkmyselfofourhavingbeenmostbountifullybittenallnight。

Thehouseisverypleasantlysituated，however，andwehadagoodbreakfast。Thatdone，wewenttovisitourplaceofdestination，whichwassometwomilesoff，andthewaytowhichwassoonindicatedbyafinger-post，whereonwaspainted，"TotheShakerVillage。"

Aswerodealong，wepassedapartyofShakers，whowereatworkupontheroad；whoworethebroadestofallbroad-brimmedhats；andwereinallvisiblerespectssuchverywoodenmen，thatIfeltaboutasmuchsympathyforthem，andasmuchinterestinthem，asiftheyhadbeensomanyfigure-headsofships。Presentlywecametothebeginningofthevillage，andalightingatthedoorofahousewheretheShakermanufacturesaresold，andwhichistheheadquartersoftheelders，requestedpermissiontoseetheShakerworship。

Pendingtheconveyanceofthisrequesttosomepersoninauthority，wewalkedintoagrimroom，whereseveralgrimhatswerehangingongrimpegs，andthetimewasgrimlytoldbyagrimclockwhichutteredeverytickwithakindofstruggle，asifitbrokethegrimsilencereluctantly，andunderprotest。Rangedagainstthewallweresixoreightstiff，high-backedchairs，andtheypartooksostronglyofthegeneralgrimnessthatonewouldmuchratherhavesatonthefloorthanincurredthesmallestobligationtoanyofthem。

Presently，therestalkedintothisapartment，agrimoldShaker，witheyesashard，anddull，andcold，asthegreatroundmetalbuttonsonhiscoatandwaistcoat；asortofcalmgoblin。Beinginformedofourdesire，heproducedanewspaperwhereinthebodyofelders，whereofhewasamember，hadadvertisedbutafewdaysbefore，thatinconsequenceofcertainunseemlyinterruptionswhichtheirworshiphadreceivedfromstrangers，theirchapelwasclosedtothepublicforthespaceofoneyear。

Asnothingwastobeurgedinoppositiontothisreasonablearrangement，werequestedleavetomakesometriflingpurchasesofShakergoods；whichwasgrimlyconceded。Weaccordinglyrepairedtoastoreinthesamehouseandontheoppositesideofthepassage，wherethestockwaspresidedoverbysomethingaliveinarussetcase，whichtheeldersaidwasawoman；andwhichIsupposeWASawoman，thoughIshouldnothavesuspectedit。

Ontheoppositesideoftheroadwastheirplaceofworship:acool，cleanedificeofwood，withlargewindowsandgreenblinds:

likeaspacioussummer-house。Astherewasnogettingintothisplace，andnothingwastobedonebutwalkupanddown，andlookatitandtheotherbuildingsinthevillage(whichwerechieflyofwood，paintedadarkredlikeEnglishbarns，andcomposedofmanystorieslikeEnglishfactories)，Ihavenothingtocommunicatetothereader，beyondthescantyresultsIgleanedthewhileourpurchasesweremaking，ThesepeoplearecalledShakersfromtheirpeculiarformofadoration，whichconsistsofadance，performedbythemenandwomenofallages，whoarrangethemselvesforthatpurposeinoppositeparties:themenfirstdivestingthemselvesoftheirhatsandcoats，whichtheygravelyhangagainstthewallbeforetheybegin；andtyingaribbonroundtheirshirt-sleeves，asthoughtheyweregoingtobebled。Theyaccompanythemselveswithadroning，hummingnoise，anddanceuntiltheyarequiteexhausted，alternatelyadvancingandretiringinapreposteroussortoftrot。

Theeffectissaidtobeunspeakablyabsurd:andifImayjudgefromaprintofthisceremonywhichIhaveinmypossession；andwhichIaminformedbythosewhohavevisitedthechapel，isperfectlyaccurate；itmustbeinfinitelygrotesque。

Theyaregovernedbyawoman，andherruleisunderstoodtobeabsolute，thoughshehastheassistanceofacouncilofelders。

Shelives，itissaid，instrictseclusion，incertainroomsabovethechapel，andisnevershowntoprofaneeyes。Ifsheatallresembletheladywhopresidedoverthestore，itisagreatcharitytokeepherascloseaspossible，andIcannottoostronglyexpressmyperfectconcurrenceinthisbenevolentproceeding。

Allthepossessionsandrevenuesofthesettlementarethrownintoacommonstock，whichismanagedbytheelders。Astheyhavemadeconvertsamongpeoplewhowerewelltodointheworld，andarefrugalandthrifty，itisunderstoodthatthisfundprospers:themoreespeciallyastheyhavemadelargepurchasesofland。NoristhisatLebanontheonlyShakersettlement:thereare，Ithink，atleast，threeothers。

Theyaregoodfarmers，andalltheirproduceiseagerlypurchasedandhighlyesteemed。"Shakerseeds，""Shakerherbs，"and"Shakerdistilledwaters，"arecommonlyannouncedforsaleintheshopsoftownsandcities。Theyaregoodbreedersofcattle，andarekindandmercifultothebrutecreation。Consequently，Shakerbeastsseldomfailtofindareadymarket。

Theyeatanddrinktogether，aftertheSpartanmodel，atagreatpublictable。Thereisnounionofthesexes，andeveryShaker，maleandfemale，isdevotedtoalifeofcelibacy。Rumourhasbeenbusyuponthistheme，buthereagainImustrefertotheladyofthestore，andsay，thatifmanyofthesisterShakersresembleher，Itreatallsuchslanderasbearingonitsfacethestrongestmarksofwildimprobability。Butthattheytakeasproselytes，personssoyoungthattheycannotknowtheirownminds，andcannotpossessmuchstrengthofresolutioninthisoranyotherrespect，I

canassertfrommyownobservationoftheextremejuvenilityofcertainyouthfulShakerswhomIsawatworkamongthepartyontheroad。

Theyaresaidtobegooddriversofbargains，buttobehonestandjustintheirtransactions，andeveninhorse-dealingtoresistthosethievishtendencieswhichwouldseem，forsomeundiscoveredreason，tobealmostinseparablefromthatbranchoftraffic。Inallmatterstheyholdtheirowncoursequietly，liveintheirgloomy，silentcommonwealth，andshowlittledesiretointerferewithotherpeople。

Thisiswellenough，butneverthelessIcannot，Iconfess，inclinetowardstheShakers；viewthemwithmuchfavour，orextendtowardsthemanyverylenientconstruction。Isoabhor，andfrommysouldetestthatbadspirit，nomatterbywhatclassorsectitmaybeentertained，whichwouldstriplifeofitshealthfulgraces，robyouthofitsinnocentpleasures，pluckfrommaturityandagetheirpleasantornaments，andmakeexistencebutanarrowpathtowardsthegrave:thatodiousspiritwhich，ifitcouldhavehadfullscopeandswayupontheearth，musthaveblastedandmadebarrentheimaginationsofthegreatestmen，andleftthem，intheirpowerofraisingupenduringimagesbeforetheirfellow-creaturesyetunborn，nobetterthanthebeasts:that，intheseverybroad-

brimmedhatsandverysombrecoats-instiff-necked，solemn-

visagedpiety，inshort，nomatterwhatitsgarb，whetherithavecroppedhairasinaShakervillage，orlongnailsasinaHindootemple-IrecognisetheworstamongtheenemiesofHeavenandEarth，whoturnthewateratthemarriagefeastsofthispoorworld，notintowine，butgall。Andiftheremustbepeoplevowedtocrushtheharmlessfanciesandtheloveofinnocentdelightsandgaieties，whichareapartofhumannature:asmuchapartofitasanyotherloveorhopethatisourcommonportion:letthem，forme，standopenlyrevealedamongtheribaldandlicentious；theveryidiotsknowthatTHEYarenotontheImmortalroad，andwilldespisethem，andavoidthemreadily。

LeavingtheShakervillagewithaheartydislikeoftheoldShakers，andaheartypityfortheyoungones:temperedbythestrongprobabilityoftheirrunningawayastheygrowolderandwiser，whichtheynotuncommonlydo:wereturnedtoLebanon，andsotoHudson，bythewaywehadcomeuponthepreviousday。There，wetookthesteamboatdowntheNorthRivertowardsNewYork，butstopped，somefourhours"journeyshortofit，atWestPoint，whereweremainedthatnight，andallnextday，andnextnighttoo。

Inthisbeautifulplace:thefairestamongthefairandlovelyHighlandsoftheNorthRiver:shutinbydeepgreenheightsandruinedforts，andlookingdownuponthedistanttownofNewburgh，alongaglitteringpathofsunlitwater，withhereandthereaskiff，whosewhitesailoftenbendsonsomenewtackassuddenflawsofwindcomedownuponherfromthegulliesinthehills:

hemmedin，besides，allroundwithmemoriesofWashington，andeventsoftherevolutionarywar:istheMilitarySchoolofAmerica。

Itcouldnotstandonmoreappropriateground，andanygroundmorebeautifulcanhardlybe。Thecourseofeducationissevere，butwelldevised，andmanly。ThroughJune，July，andAugust，theyoungmenencampuponthespaciousplainwhereonthecollegestands；andalltheyeartheirmilitaryexercisesareperformedthere，daily。

Thetermofstudyatthisinstitution，whichtheStaterequiresfromallcadets，isfouryears；but，whetheritbefromtherigidnatureofthediscipline，orthenationalimpatienceofrestraint，orbothcausescombined，notmorethanhalfthenumberwhobegintheirstudieshere，everremaintofinishthem。

ThenumberofcadetsbeingaboutequaltothatofthemembersofCongress，oneissentherefromeveryCongressionaldistrict:itsmemberinfluencingtheselection。Commissionsintheservicearedistributedonthesameprinciple。ThedwellingsofthevariousProfessorsarebeautifullysituated；andthereisamostexcellenthotelforstrangers，thoughithasthetwodrawbacksofbeingatotalabstinencehouse(winesandspiritsbeingforbiddentothestudents)，andofservingthepublicmealsatratheruncomfortablehours:towit，breakfastatseven，dinneratone，andsupperatsunset。

Thebeautyandfreshnessofthiscalmretreat，intheverydawnandgreennessofsummer-itwasthenthebeginningofJune-wereexquisiteindeed。Leavingituponthesixth，andreturningtoNewYork，toembarkforEnglandonthesucceedingday，Iwasgladtothinkthatamongthelastmemorablebeautieswhichhadglidedpastus，andsoftenedinthebrightperspective，werethosewhosepictures，tracedbynocommonhand，arefreshinmostmen"sminds；

noteasilytogrowold，orfadebeneaththedustofTime:theKaatskillMountains，SleepyHollow，andtheTappaanZee。

CHAPTERXVI-THEPASSAGEHOME

INEVERhadsomuchinterestbefore，andverylikelyIshallneverhavesomuchinterestagain，inthestateofthewind，asonthelong-looked-formorningofTuesdaytheSeventhofJune。Somenauticalauthorityhadtoldmeadayortwoprevious，"anythingwithwestinit，willdo；"sowhenIdartedoutofbedatdaylight，andthrowingupthewindow，wassalutedbyalivelybreezefromthenorth-westwhichhadsprungupinthenight，itcameuponmesofreshly，rustlingwithsomanyhappyassociations，thatIconceiveduponthespotaspecialregardforallairsblowingfromthatquarterofthecompass，whichIshallcherish，Idaresay，untilmyownwindhasbreatheditslastfrailpuff，andwithdrawnitselfforeverfromthemortalcalendar。

Thepilothadnotbeenslowtotakeadvantageofthisfavourableweather，andtheshipwhichyesterdayhadbeeninsuchacrowdeddockthatshemighthaveretiredfromtradeforgoodandall，foranychancesheseemedtohaveofgoingtosea，wasnowfullsixteenmilesaway。Agallantsightshewas，whenwe，fastgainingonherinasteamboat，sawherinthedistanceridingatanchor:hertallmastspointingupingracefullinesagainstthesky，andeveryropeandsparexpressedindelicateandthread-likeoutline:gallant，too，when，webeingallaboard，theanchorcameuptothesturdychorus"Cheerilymen，ohcheerily!"andshefollowedproudlyinthetowingsteamboat"swake:butbravestandmostgallantofall，whenthetow-ropebeingcastadrift，thecanvasflutteredfromhermasts，andspreadingherwhitewingsshesoaredawayuponherfreeandsolitarycourse。

Intheaftercabinwewereonlyfifteenpassengersinall，andthegreaterpartwerefromCanada，wheresomeofushadknowneachother。Thenightwasroughandsqually，sowerethenexttwodays，buttheyflewbyquickly，andweweresoonascheerfulandsnugaparty，withanhonest，manly-heartedcaptainatourhead，asevercametotheresolutionofbeingmutuallyagreeable，onlandorwater。

Webreakfastedateight，lunchedattwelve，dinedatthree，andtookourteaathalf-pastseven。Wehadabundanceofamusements，anddinnerwasnottheleastamongthem:firstly，foritsownsake；secondly，becauseofitsextraordinarylength:itsduration，inclusiveofallthelongpausesbetweenthecourses，beingseldomlessthantwohoursandahalf；whichwasasubjectofnever-

failingentertainment。Bywayofbeguilingthetediousnessofthesebanquets，aselectassociationwasformedatthelowerendofthetable，belowthemast，towhosedistinguishedpresidentmodestyforbidsmetomakeanyfurtherallusion，which，beingaveryhilariousandjovialinstitution，was(prejudiceapart)inhighfavourwiththerestofthecommunity，andparticularlywithablacksteward，wholivedforthreeweeksinabroadgrinatthemarvelloushumouroftheseincorporatedworthies。

Then，wehadchessforthosewhoplayedit，whist，cribbage，books，backgammon，andshovelboard。Inallweathers，fairorfoul，calmorwindy，wewereeveryoneondeck，walkingupanddowninpairs，lyingintheboats，leaningovertheside，orchattinginalazygrouptogether。Wehadnolackofmusic，foroneplayedtheaccordion，anothertheviolin，andanother(whousuallybeganatsixo"clockA。M。)thekey-bugle:thecombinedeffectofwhichinstruments，whentheyallplayeddifferenttunesindifferentspartsoftheship，atthesametime，andwithinhearingofeachother，astheysometimesdid(everybodybeingintenselysatisfiedwithhisownperformance)，wassublimelyhideous。

Whenallthesemeansofentertainmentfailed，asailwouldheaveinsight:looming，perhaps，theveryspiritofaship，inthemistydistance，orpassingussoclosethatthroughourglasseswecouldseethepeopleonherdecks，andeasilymakeouthername，andwhithershewasbound。Forhourstogetherwecouldwatchthedolphinsandporpoisesastheyrolledandleapedanddivedaroundthevessel；orthosesmallcreatureseveronthewing，theMotherCarey"schickens，whichhadborneuscompanyfromNewYorkbay，andforawholefortnightflutteredaboutthevessel"sstern。Forsomedayswehadadeadcalm，orverylightwinds，duringwhichthecrewamusedthemselveswithfishing，andhookedanunluckydolphin，whoexpired，inallhisrainbowcolours，onthedeck:aneventofsuchimportanceinourbarrencalendar，thatafterwardswedatedfromthedolphin，andmadethedayonwhichhedied，anera。

Besidesallthis，whenwewerefiveorsixdaysout，therebegantobemuchtalkoficebergs，ofwhichwanderingislandsanunusualnumberhadbeenseenbythevesselsthathadcomeintoNewYorkadayortwobeforeweleftthatport，andofwhosedangerousneighbourhoodwewerewarnedbythesuddencoldnessoftheweather，andthesinkingofthemercuryinthebarometer。Whilethesetokenslasted，adoublelook-outwaskept，andmanydismaltaleswerewhisperedafterdark，ofshipsthathadstruckupontheiceandgonedowninthenight；butthewindobligingustoholdasouthwardcourse，wesawnoneofthem，andtheweathersoongrewbrightandwarmagain。

Theobservationeverydayatnoon，andthesubsequentworkingofthevessel"scourse，was，asmaybesupposed，afeatureinourlivesofparamountimportance；norweretherewanting(asthereneverare)sagaciousdoubtersofthecaptain"scalculations，who，sosoonashisbackwasturned，would，intheabsenceofcompasses，measurethechartwithbitsofstring，andendsofpocket-

handkerchiefs，andpointsofsnuffers，andclearlyprovehimtobewrongbyanoddthousandmilesorso。Itwasveryedifyingtoseetheseunbelieversshaketheirheadsandfrown，andhearthemholdforthstronglyuponnavigation:notthattheyknewanythingaboutit，butthattheyalwaysmistrustedthecaptainincalmweather，orwhenthewindwasadverse。Indeed，themercuryitselfisnotsovariableasthisclassofpassengers，whomyouwillsee，whentheshipisgoingnoblythroughthewater，quitepalewithadmiration，swearingthatthecaptainbeatsallcaptainseverknown，andevenhintingatsubscriptionsforapieceofplate；andwho，nextmorning，whenthebreezehaslulled，andallthesailshanguselessintheidleair，shaketheirdespondentheadsagain，andsay，withscrewed-uplips，theyhopethatcaptainisasailor-buttheyshrewdlydoubthim。

Itevenbecameanoccupationinthecalm，towonderwhenthewindWOULDspringupinthefavourablequarter，where，itwasclearlyshownbyalltherulesandprecedents，itoughttohavesprunguplongago。Thefirstmate，whowhistledforitzealously，wasmuchrespectedforhisperseverance，andwasregardedevenbytheunbelieversasafirst-ratesailor。Manygloomylookswouldbecastupwardthroughthecabinskylightsattheflappingsailswhiledinnerwasinprogress；andsome，growingboldinruefulness，predictedthatweshouldlandaboutthemiddleofJuly。Therearealwaysonboardship，aSanguineOne，andaDespondentOne。Thelattercharactercarriedithollowatthisperiodofthevoyage，andtriumphedovertheSanguineOneateverymeal，byinquiringwherehesupposedtheGreatWestern(whichleftNewYorkaweekafterus)wasNOW:andwherehesupposedthe"Cunard"steam-packetwasNOW:andwhathethoughtofsailingvessels，ascomparedwithsteamshipsNOW:andsobesethislifewithpestilentattacksofthatkind，thathetoowasobligedtoaffectdespondency，forverypeaceandquietude。

Thesewereadditionstothelistofentertainingincidents，buttherewasstillanothersourceofinterest。Wecarriedinthesteeragenearlyahundredpassengers:alittleworldofpoverty:

andaswecametoknowindividualsamongthembysight，fromlookingdownuponthedeckwheretheytooktheairinthedaytime，andcookedtheirfood，andveryoftenateittoo，webecamecurioustoknowtheirhistories，andwithwhatexpectationstheyhadgoneouttoAmerica，andonwhaterrandstheyweregoinghome，andwhattheircircumstanceswere。Theinformationwegotontheseheadsfromthecarpenter，whohadchargeofthesepeople，wasoftenofthestrangestkind。SomeofthemhadbeeninAmericabutthreedays，somebutthreemonths，andsomehadgoneoutinthelastvoyageofthatveryshipinwhichtheywerenowreturninghome。

Othershadsoldtheirclothestoraisethepassage-money，andhadhardlyragstocoverthem；othershadnofood，andliveduponthecharityoftherest:andoneman，itwasdiscoverednearlyattheendofthevoyage，notbefore-forhekepthissecretclose，anddidnotcourtcompassion-hadhadnosustenancewhateverbutthebonesandscrapsoffathetookfromtheplatesusedintheafter-

cabindinner，whentheywereputouttobewashed。

Thewholesystemofshippingandconveyingtheseunfortunatepersons，isonethatstandsinneedofthoroughrevision。IfanyclassdeservetobeprotectedandassistedbytheGovernment，itisthatclasswhoarebanishedfromtheirnativelandinsearchofthebaremeansofsubsistence。Allthatcouldbedoneforthesepoorpeoplebythegreatcompassionandhumanityofthecaptainandofficerswasdone，buttheyrequiremuchmore。Thelawisbound，atleastupontheEnglishside，toseethattoomanyofthemarenotputonboardoneship:andthattheiraccommodationsaredecent:notdemoralising，andprofligate。Itisbound，too，incommonhumanity，todeclarethatnomanshallbetakenonboardwithouthisstockofprovisionsbeingpreviouslyinspectedbysomeproperofficer，andpronouncedmoderatelysufficientforhissupportuponthevoyage。Itisboundtoprovide，ortorequirethattherebeprovided，amedicalattendant；whereasintheseshipstherearenone，thoughsicknessofadults，anddeathsofchildren，onthepassage，aremattersoftheverycommonestoccurrence。

AboveallitisthedutyofanyGovernment，beitmonarchyorrepublic，tointerposeandputanendtothatsystembywhichafirmoftradersinemigrantspurchaseoftheownersthewhole"tween-decksofaship，andsendonboardasmanywretchedpeopleastheycanlayholdof，onanytermstheycanget，withoutthesmallestreferencetotheconveniencesofthesteerage，thenumberofberths，theslightestseparationofthesexes，oranythingbuttheirownimmediateprofit。Noriseventhistheworstofthevicioussystem:for，certaincrimpingagentsofthesehouses，whohaveapercentageonallthepassengerstheyinveigle，areconstantlytravellingaboutthosedistrictswherepovertyanddiscontentarerife，andtemptingthecredulousintomoremisery，byholdingoutmonstrousinducementstoemigrationwhichcanneverberealised。

Thehistoryofeveryfamilywehadonboardwasprettymuchthesame。Afterhoardingup，andborrowing，andbegging，andsellingeverythingtopaythepassage，theyhadgoneouttoNewYork，expectingtofinditsstreetspavedwithgold；andhadfoundthempavedwithveryhardandveryrealstones。Enterprisewasdull；

labourerswerenotwanted；jobsofworkweretobegot，butthepaymentwasnot。Theywerecomingback，evenpoorerthantheywent。OneofthemwascarryinganopenletterfromayoungEnglishartisan，whohadbeeninNewYorkafortnight，toafriendnearManchester，whomhestronglyurgedtofollowhim。Oneoftheofficersbroughtittomeasacuriosity。"Thisisthecountry，Jem，"saidthewriter。"IlikeAmerica。Thereisnodespotismhere；that"sthegreatthing。Employmentofallsortsisgoinga-

begging，andwagesarecapital。Youhaveonlytochooseatrade，Jem，andbeit。Ihaven"tmadechoiceofoneyet，butIshallsoon。ATPRESENTIHAVEN"TQUITEMADEUPMYMINDWHETHERTOBEA

CARPENTER-ORATAILOR。"

Therewasyetanotherkindofpassenger，andbutonemore，who，inthecalmandthelightwinds，wasaconstantthemeofconversationandobservationamongus。ThiswasanEnglishsailor，asmart，thorough-built，Englishman-of-war"s-manfromhishattohisshoes，whowasservingintheAmericannavy，andhavinggotleaveofabsencewasonhiswayhometoseehisfriends。Whenhepresentedhimselftotakeandpayforhispassage，ithadbeensuggestedtohimthatbeinganableseamanhemightaswellworkitandsavethemoney，butthispieceofadviceheveryindignantlyrejected:

saying，"He"dbedamnedbutforoncehe"dgoaboardship，asagentleman。"Accordingly，theytookhismoney，buthenosoonercameaboard，thanhestowedhiskitintheforecastle，arrangedtomesswiththecrew，andtheveryfirsttimethehandswereturnedup，wentaloftlikeacat，beforeanybody。Andallthroughthepassagetherehewas，firstatthebraces，outermostontheyards，perpetuallylendingahandeverywhere，butalwayswithasoberdignityinhismanner，andasobergrinonhisface，whichplainlysaid，"Idoitasagentleman。Formyownpleasure，mindyou!"

Atlengthandatlast，thepromisedwindcameupinrightgoodearnest，andawaywewentbeforeit，witheverystitchofcanvasset，slashingthroughthewaternobly。Therewasagrandeurinthemotionofthesplendidship，asovershadowedbyhermassofsails，sherodeatafuriouspaceuponthewaves，whichfilledonewithanindescribablesenseofprideandexultation。Assheplungedintoafoamingvalley，howIlovedtoseethegreenwaves，bordereddeepwithwhite，comerushingonastern，tobuoyherupwardattheirpleasure，andcurlaboutherasshestoopedagain，butalwaysownherfortheirhaughtymistressstill!On，onweflew，withchanginglightsuponthewater，beingnowintheblessedregionoffleecyskies；abrightsunlightingusbyday，andabrightmoonbynight；thevanepointingdirectlyhomeward，alikethetruthfulindextothefavouringwindandtoourcheerfulhearts；untilatsunrise，onefairMondaymorning-thetwenty-seventhofJune，I

shallnoteasilyforgettheday-therelaybeforeus，oldCapeClear，Godblessit，showing，inthemistofearlymorning，likeacloud:thebrightestandmostwelcomecloud，tous，thateverhidthefaceofHeaven"sfallensister-Home。

Dimspeckasitwasinthewideprospect，itmadethesunriseamorecheerfulsight，andgavetoitthatsortofhumaninterestwhichitseemstowantatsea。There，aselsewhere，thereturnofdayisinseparablefromsomesenseofrenewedhopeandgladness；

butthelightshiningonthedrearywasteofwater，andshowingitinallitsvastextentofloneliness，presentsasolemnspectacle，whichevennight，veilingitindarknessanduncertainty，doesnotsurpass。Therisingofthemoonismoreinkeepingwiththesolitaryocean；andhasanairofmelancholygrandeur，whichinitssoftandgentleinfluence，seemstocomfortwhileitsaddens。I

recollectwhenIwasaveryyoungchildhavingafancythatthereflectionofthemooninwaterwasapathtoHeaven，troddenbythespiritsofgoodpeopleontheirwaytoGod；andthisoldfeelingoftencameovermeagain，whenIwatcheditonatranquilnightatsea。

ThewindwasverylightonthissameMondaymorning，butitwasstillintherightquarter，andso，byslowdegrees，weleftCapeClearbehind，andsailedalongwithinsightofthecoastofIreland。Andhowmerryweallwere，andhowloyaltotheGeorgeWashington，andhowfullofmutualcongratulations，andhowventuresomeinpredictingtheexacthouratwhichweshouldarriveatLiverpool，maybeeasilyimaginedandreadilyunderstood。Also，howheartilywedrankthecaptain"shealththatdayatdinner；andhowrestlesswebecameaboutpackingup:andhowtwoorthreeofthemostsanguinespiritsrejectedtheideaofgoingtobedatallthatnightassomethingitwasnotworthwhiletodo，soneartheshore，butwentnevertheless，andsleptsoundly；andhowtobesonearourjourney"send，waslikeapleasantdream，fromwhichonefearedtowake。

Thefriendlybreezefreshenedagainnextday，andonwewentoncemorebeforeitgallantly:descryingnowandthenanEnglishshipgoinghomewardundershortenedsail，whilewe，witheveryinchofcanvascrowdedon，dashedgailypast，andleftherfarbehind。

Towardsevening，theweatherturnedhazy，withadrizzlingrain；

andsoonbecamesothick，thatwesailed，asitwere，inacloud。

Stillwesweptonwardlikeaphantomship，andmanyaneagereyeglanceduptowheretheLook-outonthemastkeptwatchforHolyhead。

Atlengthhislong-expectedcrywasheard，andatthesamemomentthereshoneoutfromthehazeandmistahead，agleaminglight，whichpresentlywasgone，andsoonreturned，andsoonwasgoneagain。Wheneveritcameback，theeyesofallonboard，brightenedandsparkledlikeitself:andthereweallstood，watchingthisrevolvinglightupontherockatHolyhead，andpraisingitforitsbrightnessanditsfriendlywarning，andlaudingit，inshort，aboveallothersignallightsthateverweredisplayed，untilitoncemoreglimmeredfaintlyinthedistance，farbehindus。

Then，itwastimetofireagun，forapilot；andalmostbeforeitssmokehadclearedaway，alittleboatwithalightathermastheadcamebearingdownuponus，throughthedarkness，swiftly。Andpresently，oursailsbeingbacked，sheranalongside；andthehoarsepilot，wrappedandmuffledinpea-coatsandshawlstotheverybridgeofhisweather-ploughed-upnose，stoodbodilyamongusonthedeck。AndIthinkifthatpilothadwantedtoborrowfiftypoundsforanindefiniteperiodonnosecurity，weshouldhaveengagedtolendittohim，amongus，beforehisboathaddroppedastern，or(whichisthesamething)beforeeveryscrapofnewsinthepaperhebroughtwithhimhadbecomethecommonpropertyofallonboard。

Weturnedinprettylatethatnight，andturnedoutprettyearlynextmorning。Bysixo"clockweclusteredonthedeck，preparedtogoashore；andlookeduponthespires，androofs，andsmoke，ofLiverpool。ByeightweallsatdowninoneofitsHotels，toeatanddrinktogetherforthelasttime。Andbyninewehadshakenhandsallround，andbrokenupoursocialcompanyforever。

Thecountry，bytherailroad，seemed，aswerattledthroughit，likealuxuriantgarden。Thebeautyofthefields(sosmalltheylooked!)，thehedge-rows，andthetrees；theprettycottages，thebedsofflowers，theoldchurchyards，theantiquehouses，andeverywell-knownobject；theexquisitedelightsofthatonejourney，crowdingintheshortcompassofasummer"sday，thejoyofmanyyears，withthewindingupwithHomeandallthatmakesitdear；notonguecantell，orpenofminedescribe。

CHAPTERXVII-SLAVERY

THEupholdersofslaveryinAmerica-oftheatrocitiesofwhichsystem，IshallnotwriteonewordforwhichIhavenothadampleproofandwarrant-maybedividedintothreegreatclasses。

Thefirst，arethosemoremoderateandrationalownersofhumancattle，whohavecomeintothepossessionofthemassomanycoinsintheirtradingcapital，butwhoadmitthefrightfulnatureoftheInstitutionintheabstract，andperceivethedangerstosocietywithwhichitisfraught:dangerswhichhoweverdistanttheymaybe，orhowsoevertardyintheircomingon，areascertaintofalluponitsguiltyhead，asistheDayofJudgment。

Thesecond，consistsofallthoseowners，breeders，users，buyersandsellersofslaves，whowill，untilthebloodychapterhasabloodyend，own，breed，use，buy，andsellthematallhazards:

whodoggedlydenythehorrorsofthesystemintheteethofsuchamassofevidenceasneverwasbroughttobearonanyothersubject，andtowhichtheexperienceofeverydaycontributesitsimmenseamount；whowouldatthisoranyothermoment，gladlyinvolveAmericainawar，civilorforeign，providedthatithadforitssoleendandobjecttheassertionoftheirrighttoperpetuateslavery，andtowhipandworkandtortureslaves，unquestionedbyanyhumanauthority，andunassailedbyanyhumanpower；who，whentheyspeakofFreedom，meantheFreedomtooppresstheirkind，andtobesavage，merciless，andcruel；andofwhomeverymanonhisownground，inrepublicanAmerica，isamoreexacting，andasterner，andalessresponsibledespotthantheCaliphHarounAlraschidinhisangryrobeofscarlet。

Thethird，andnottheleastnumerousorinfluential，iscomposedofallthatdelicategentilitywhichcannotbearasuperior，andcannotbrookanequal；ofthatclasswhoseRepublicanismmeans，"I

willnottolerateamanaboveme:andofthosebelow，nonemustapproachtoonear；"whosepride，inalandwherevoluntaryservitudeisshunnedasadisgrace，mustbeministeredtobyslaves；andwhoseinalienablerightscanonlyhavetheirgrowthinnegrowrongs。

Ithasbeensometimesurgedthat，intheunavailingeffortswhichhavebeenmadetoadvancethecauseofHumanFreedomintherepublicofAmerica(strangecauseforhistorytotreatof!)，sufficientregardhasnotbeenhadtotheexistenceofthefirstclassofpersons；andithasbeencontendedthattheyarehardlyused，inbeingconfoundedwiththesecond。Thisis，nodoubt，thecase；nobleinstancesofpecuniaryandpersonalsacrificehavealreadyhadtheirgrowthamongthem；anditismuchtoberegrettedthatthegulfbetweenthemandtheadvocatesofemancipationshouldhavebeenwidenedanddeepenedbyanymeans:therather，asthereare，beyonddispute，amongtheseslave-owners，manykindmasterswhoaretenderintheexerciseoftheirunnaturalpower。Still，itistobefearedthatthisinjusticeisinseparablefromthestateofthingswithwhichhumanityandtrutharecalledupontodeal。

Slaveryisnotawhitthemoreendurablebecausesomeheartsaretobefoundwhichcanpartiallyresistitshardeninginfluences；norcantheindignanttideofhonestwrathstandstill，becauseinitsonwardcourseitoverwhelmsafewwhoarecomparativelyinnocent，amongahostofguilty。

Thegroundmostcommonlytakenbythesebettermenamongtheadvocatesofslavery，isthis:"Itisabadsystem；andformyselfIwouldwillinglygetridofit，ifIcould；mostwillingly。Butitisnotsobad，asyouinEnglandtakeittobe。Youaredeceivedbytherepresentationsoftheemancipationists。Thegreaterpartofmyslavesaremuchattachedtome。YouwillsaythatIdonotallowthemtobeseverelytreated；butIwillputittoyouwhetheryoubelievethatitcanbeageneralpracticetotreattheminhumanly，whenitwouldimpairtheirvalue，andwouldbeobviouslyagainsttheinterestsoftheirmasters。"

Isittheinterestofanymantosteal，togame，towastehishealthandmentalfacultiesbydrunkenness，tolie，forswearhimself，indulgehatred，seekdesperaterevenge，ordomurder？No。

Alltheseareroadstoruin。Andwhy，then，domentreadthem？

Becausesuchinclinationsareamongtheviciousqualitiesofmankind。Blotout，yefriendsofslavery，fromthecatalogueofhumanpassions，brutallust，cruelty，andtheabuseofirresponsiblepower(ofallearthlytemptationsthemostdifficulttoberesisted)，andwhenyehavedoneso，andnotbefore，wewillinquirewhetheritbetheinterestofamastertolashandmaimtheslaves，overwhoselivesandlimbshehasanabsolutecontrol!

Butagain:thisclass，togetherwiththatlastoneIhavenamed，themiserablearistocracyspawnedofafalserepublic，liftuptheirvoicesandexclaim"Publicopinionisall-sufficienttopreventsuchcrueltyasyoudenounce。"Publicopinion!Why，publicopinionintheslaveStatesISslavery，isitnot？Publicopinion，intheslaveStates，hasdeliveredtheslavesover，tothegentlemerciesoftheirmasters。Publicopinionhasmadethelaws，anddeniedtheslaveslegislativeprotection。Publicopinionhasknottedthelash，heatedthebranding-iron，loadedtherifle，andshieldedthemurderer。Publicopinionthreatenstheabolitionistwithdeath，ifheventuretotheSouth；anddragshimwitharopeabouthismiddle，inbroadunblushingnoon，throughthefirstcityintheEast。Publicopinionhas，withinafewyears，burnedaslavealiveataslowfireinthecityofSt。Louis；andpublicopinionhastothisdaymaintaineduponthebenchthatestimablejudgewhochargedthejury，impanelledtheretotryhismurderers，thattheirmosthorriddeedwasanactofpublicopinion，andbeingso，mustnotbepunishedbythelawsthepublicsentimenthadmade。