第11章

tohavethesesocialsacramentsstrippedofeverythingbutthemeregreedysatisfactionofthenaturalcravings；goessoagainstthegrainwithme，thatIseriouslybelievetherecollectionofthesefuneralfeastswillbeawakingnightmaretomeallmylife。

Therewassomereliefinthisboat，too，whichtherehadnotbeenintheother，forthecaptain(ablunt，good-naturedfellow)hadhishandsomewifewithhim，whowasdisposedtobelivelyandagreeable，aswereafewotherlady-passengerswhohadtheirseatsaboutusatthesameendofthetable。Butnothingcouldhavemadeheadagainstthedepressinginfluenceofthegeneralbody。Therewasamagnetismofdulnessinthemwhichwouldhavebeatendownthemostfacetiouscompanionthattheeartheverknew。Ajestwouldhavebeenacrime，andasmilewouldhavefadedintoagrinninghorror。Suchdeadly，leadenpeople；suchsystematicplodding，weary，insupportableheaviness；suchamassofanimatedindigestioninrespectofallthatwasgenial，jovial，frank，social，orhearty；never，sure，wasbroughttogetherelsewheresincetheworldbegan。

Norwasthescenery，asweapproachedthejunctionoftheOhioandMississippirivers，atallinspiritinginitsinfluence。Thetreeswerestuntedintheirgrowth；thebankswerelowandflat；thesettlementsandlogcabinsfewerinnumber:theirinhabitantsmorewanandwretchedthananywehadencounteredyet。Nosongsofbirdswereintheair，nopleasantscents，nomovinglightsandshadowsfromswiftpassingclouds。Hourafterhour，thechangelessglareofthehot，unwinkingsky，shoneuponthesamemonotonousobjects。Hourafterhour，theriverrolledalong，aswearilyandslowlyasthetimeitself。

Atlength，uponthemorningofthethirdday，wearrivedataspotsomuchmoredesolatethananywehadyetbeheld，thattheforlornestplaceswehadpassed，were，incomparisonwithit，fullofinterest。Atthejunctionofthetworivers，ongroundsoflatandlowandmarshy，thatatcertainseasonsoftheyearitisinundatedtothehouse-tops，liesabreeding-placeoffever，ague，anddeath；vauntedinEnglandasamineofGoldenHope，andspeculatedin，onthefaithofmonstrousrepresentations，tomanypeople"sruin。Adismalswamp，onwhichthehalf-builthousesrotaway:clearedhereandthereforthespaceofafewyards；andteeming，then，withrankunwholesomevegetation，inwhosebalefulshadethewretchedwandererswhoaretemptedhither，droop，anddie，andlaytheirbones；thehatefulMississippicirclingandeddyingbeforeit，andturningoffuponitssoutherncourseaslimymonsterhideoustobehold；ahotbedofdisease，anuglysepulchre，agraveuncheeredbyanygleamofpromise:aplacewithoutonesinglequality，inearthorairorwater，tocommendit:suchisthisdismalCairo。

ButwhatwordsshalldescribetheMississippi，greatfatherofrivers，who(praisebetoHeaven)hasnoyoungchildrenlikehim!

Anenormousditch，sometimestwoorthreemileswide，runningliquidmud，sixmilesanhour:itsstrongandfrothycurrentchokedandobstructedeverywherebyhugelogsandwholeforesttrees:nowtwiningthemselvestogetheringreatrafts，fromtheintersticesofwhichasedgy，lazyfoamworksup，tofloatuponthewater"stop；nowrollingpastlikemonstrousbodies，theirtangledrootsshowinglikemattedhair；nowglancingsinglybylikegiantleeches；andnowwrithingroundandroundinthevortexofsomesmallwhirlpool，likewoundedsnakes。Thebankslow，thetreesdwarfish，themarshesswarmingwithfrogs，thewretchedcabinsfewandfarapart，theirinmateshollow-cheekedandpale，theweatherveryhot，mosquitoespenetratingintoeverycrackandcreviceoftheboat，mudandslimeoneverything:nothingpleasantinitsaspect，buttheharmlesslightningwhichflickerseverynightuponthedarkhorizon。

Fortwodayswetoiledupthisfoulstream，strikingconstantlyagainstthefloatingtimber，orstoppingtoavoidthosemoredangerousobstacles，thesnags，orsawyers，whicharethehiddentrunksoftreesthathavetheirrootsbelowthetide。Whenthenightsareverydark，thelook-outstationedintheheadoftheboat，knowsbytherippleofthewaterifanygreatimpedimentbenearathand，andringsabellbesidehim，whichisthesignalfortheenginetobestopped:butalwaysinthenightthisbellhasworktodo，andaftereveryring，therecomesablowwhichrendersitnoeasymattertoremaininbed。

Thedeclineofdayherewasverygorgeous；tingeingthefirmamentdeeplywithredandgold，uptotheverykeystoneofthearchaboveus。Asthesunwentdownbehindthebank，theslightestbladesofgrassuponitseemedtobecomeasdistinctlyvisibleasthearteriesintheskeletonofaleaf；andwhen，asitslowlysank，theredandgoldenbarsuponthewatergrewdimmer，anddimmeryet，asiftheyweresinkingtoo；andalltheglowingcoloursofdepartingdaypaled，inchbyinch，beforethesombrenight；thescenebecameathousandtimesmorelonesomeandmoredrearythanbefore，andallitsinfluencesdarkenedwiththesky。

Wedrankthemuddywaterofthisriverwhilewewereuponit。Itisconsideredwholesomebythenatives，andissomethingmoreopaquethangruel。IhaveseenwaterlikeitattheFilter-shops，butnowhereelse。

OnthefourthnightafterleavingLouisville，wereachedSt。Louis，andhereIwitnessedtheconclusionofanincident，triflingenoughinitself，butverypleasanttosee，whichhadinterestedmeduringthewholejourney。

Therewasalittlewomanonboard，withalittlebaby；andbothlittlewomanandlittlechildwerecheerful，good-looking，bright-

eyed，andfairtosee。ThelittlewomanhadbeenpassingalongtimewithhersickmotherinNewYork，andhadleftherhomeinSt。

Louis，inthatconditioninwhichladieswhotrulylovetheirlordsdesiretobe。Thebabywasborninhermother"shouse；andshehadnotseenherhusband(towhomshewasnowreturning)，fortwelvemonths:havinglefthimamonthortwoaftertheirmarriage。

Well，tobesure，thereneverwasalittlewomansofullofhope，andtenderness，andlove，andanxiety，asthislittlewomanwas:

andalldaylongshewonderedwhether"He"wouldbeatthewharf；

andwhether"He"hadgotherletter；andwhether，ifshesentthebabyashorebysomebodyelse，"He"wouldknowit，meetingitinthestreet:which，seeingthathehadneverseteyesuponitinhislife，wasnotverylikelyintheabstract，butwasprobableenough，totheyoungmother。Shewassuchanartlesslittlecreature；andwasinsuchasunny，beaming，hopefulstate；andletoutallthismatterclingingcloseaboutherheart，sofreely；thatalltheotherladypassengersenteredintothespiritofitasmuchasshe；

andthecaptain(whoheardallaboutitfromhiswife)waswondroussly，Ipromiseyou:inquiring，everytimewemetattable，asinforgetfulness，whethersheexpectedanybodytomeetheratSt。

Louis，andwhethershewouldwanttogoashorethenightwereachedit(buthesupposedshewouldn"t)，andcuttingmanyotherdryjokesofthatnature。Therewasonelittleweazen，dried-apple-facedoldwoman，whotookoccasiontodoubttheconstancyofhusbandsinsuchcircumstancesofbereavement；andtherewasanotherlady(withalap-dog)oldenoughtomoralizeonthelightnessofhumanaffections，andyetnotsooldthatshecouldhelpnursingthebaby，nowandthen，orlaughingwiththerest，whenthelittlewomancalleditbyitsfather"sname，andaskeditallmanneroffantasticquestionsconcerninghiminthejoyofherheart。

Itwassomethingofablowtothelittlewoman，thatwhenwewerewithintwentymilesofourdestination，itbecameclearlynecessarytoputthisbabytobed。Butshegotoveritwiththesamegoodhumour；tiedahandkerchiefroundherhead；andcameoutintothelittlegallerywiththerest。Then，suchanoracleasshebecameinreferencetothelocalities!andsuchfacetiousnessaswasdisplayedbythemarriedladies!andsuchsympathyaswasshownbythesingleones!andsuchpealsoflaughterasthelittlewomanherself(whowouldjustassoonhavecried)greetedeveryjestwith!

Atlast，therewerethelightsofSt。Louis，andherewasthewharf，andthosewerethesteps:andthelittlewomancoveringherfacewithherhands，andlaughing(orseemingtolaugh)morethanever，ranintoherowncabin，andshutherselfup。Ihavenodoubtthatinthecharminginconsistencyofsuchexcitement，shestoppedherears，lestsheshouldhear"Him"askingforher:butIdidnotseeherdoit。

Then，agreatcrowdofpeoplerushedonboard，thoughtheboatwasnotyetmadefast，butwaswanderingabout，amongtheotherboats，tofindalanding-place:andeverybodylookedforthehusband:

andnobodysawhim:when，inthemidstofusall-Heavenknowshowsheevergotthere-therewasthelittlewomanclingingwithbotharmstightroundtheneckofafine，good-looking，sturdyyoungfellow!andinamomentafterwards，thereshewasagain，actuallyclappingherlittlehandsforjoy，asshedraggedhimthroughthesmalldoorofhersmallcabin，tolookatthebabyashelayasleep!

Wewenttoalargehotel，calledthePlanter"sHouse:builtlikeanEnglishhospital，withlongpassagesandbarewalls，andsky-

lightsabovetheroom-doorsforthefreecirculationofair。Therewereagreatmanyboardersinit；andasmanylightssparkledandglistenedfromthewindowsdownintothestreetbelow，whenwedroveup，asifithadbeenilluminatedonsomeoccasionofrejoicing。Itisanexcellenthouse，andtheproprietorshavemostbountifulnotionsofprovidingthecreaturecomforts。Diningalonewithmywifeinourownroom，oneday，Icountedfourteendishesonthetableatonce。

IntheoldFrenchportionofthetown，thethoroughfaresarenarrowandcrooked，andsomeofthehousesareveryquaintandpicturesque:beingbuiltofwood，withtumble-downgalleriesbeforethewindows，approachablebystairsorratherladdersfromthestreet。Therearequeerlittlebarbers"shopsanddrinking-

housestoo，inthisquarter；andabundanceofcrazyoldtenementswithblinkingcasements，suchasmaybeseeninFlanders。Someoftheseancienthabitations，withhighgarretgable-windowsperkingintotheroofs，haveakindofFrenchshrugaboutthem；andbeinglop-sidedwithage，appeartoholdtheirheadsaskew，besides，asiftheyweregrimacinginastonishmentattheAmericanImprovements。

Itishardlynecessarytosay，thattheseconsistofwharfsandwarehouses，andnewbuildingsinalldirections；andofagreatmanyvastplanswhicharestill"progressing。"Already，however，someverygoodhouses，broadstreets，andmarble-frontedshops，havegonesofaraheadastobeinastateofcompletion；andthetownbidsfairinafewyearstoimproveconsiderably:thoughitisnotlikelyevertovie，inpointofeleganceorbeauty，withCincinnati。

TheRomanCatholicreligion，introducedherebytheearlyFrenchsettlers，prevailsextensively。AmongthepublicinstitutionsareaJesuitcollege；aconventfor"theLadiesoftheSacredHeart；"

andalargechapelattachedtothecollege，whichwasincourseoferectionatthetimeofmyvisit，andwasintendedtobeconsecratedonthesecondofDecemberinthenextyear。Thearchitectofthisbuilding，isoneofthereverendfathersoftheschool，andtheworksproceedunderhissoledirection。TheorganwillbesentfromBelgium。

Inadditiontotheseestablishments，thereisaRomanCatholiccathedral，dedicatedtoSaintFrancisXavier；andahospital，foundedbythemunificenceofadeceasedresident，whowasamemberofthatchurch。ItalsosendsmissionariesfromhenceamongtheIndiantribes。

TheUnitarianchurchisrepresented，inthisremoteplace，asinmostotherpartsofAmerica，byagentlemanofgreatworthandexcellence。Thepoorhavegoodreasontorememberandblessit；

foritbefriendsthem，andaidsthecauseofrationaleducation，withoutanysectarianorselfishviews。Itisliberalinallitsactions；ofkindconstruction；andofwidebenevolence。

Therearethreefree-schoolsalreadyerected，andinfulloperationinthiscity。Afourthisbuilding，andwillsoonbeopened。

Nomaneveradmitstheunhealthinessoftheplacehedwellsin(unlessheisgoingawayfromit)，andIshalltherefore，Ihavenodoubt，beatissuewiththeinhabitantsofSt。Louis，inquestioningtheperfectsalubrityofitsclimate，andinhintingthatIthinkitmustratherdisposetofever，inthesummerandautumnalseasons。Justadding，thatitisveryhot，liesamonggreatrivers，andhasvasttractsofundrainedswampylandaroundit，Ileavethereadertoformhisownopinion。

AsIhadagreatdesiretoseeaPrairiebeforeturningbackfromthefurthestpointofmywanderings；andassomegentlemenofthetownhad，intheirhospitableconsideration，anequaldesiretogratifyme；adaywasfixed，beforemydeparture，foranexpeditiontotheLooking-GlassPrairie，whichiswithinthirtymilesofthetown。Deemingitpossiblethatmyreadersmaynotobjecttoknowwhatkindofthingsuchagipsypartymaybeatthatdistancefromhome，andamongwhatsortofobjectsitmoves，Iwilldescribethejauntinanotherchapter。

CHAPTERXIII-AJAUNTTOTHELOOKING-GLASSPRAIRIEANDBACK

IMAYpremisethatthewordPrairieisvariouslypronouncedPARAAER，PAREARER，PAROARER。Thelattermodeofpronunciationisperhapsthemostinfavour。

Wewerefourteeninall，andallyoungmen:indeeditisasingularthoughverynaturalfeatureinthesocietyofthesedistantsettlements，thatitismainlycomposedofadventurouspersonsintheprimeoflife，andhasveryfewgreyheadsamongit。

Therewerenoladies:thetripbeingafatiguingone:andweweretostartatfiveo"clockinthemorningpunctually。

Iwascalledatfour，thatImightbecertainofkeepingnobodywaiting；andhavinggotsomebreadandmilkforbreakfast，threwupthewindowandlookeddownintothestreet，expectingtoseethewholepartybusilyastir，andgreatpreparationsgoingonbelow。

Butaseverythingwasveryquiet，andthestreetpresentedthathopelessaspectwithwhichfiveo"clockinthemorningisfamiliarelsewhere，Ideemeditaswelltogotobedagain，andwentaccordingly。

Iwokeagainatseveno"clock，andbythattimethepartyhadassembled，andweregatheredround，onelightcarriage，withaverystoutaxletree；onesomethingonwheelslikeanamateurcarrier"scart；onedoublephaetonofgreatantiquityandunearthlyconstruction；onegigwithagreatholeinitsbackandabrokenhead；andonerideronhorsebackwhowastogoonbefore。Igotintothefirstcoachwiththreecompanions；therestbestowedthemselvesintheothervehicles；twolargebasketsweremadefasttothelightest；twolargestonejarsinwickercases，technicallyknownasdemi-johns，wereconsignedtothe"leastrowdy"ofthepartyforsafe-keeping；andtheprocessionmovedofftotheferryboat，inwhichitwastocrosstheriverbodily，men，horses，carriages，andall，asthemannerinthesepartsis。

Wegotovertheriverinduecourse，andmusteredagainbeforealittlewoodenboxonwheels，hovedownallaslantinamorass，with"MERCHANTTAILOR"paintedinverylargelettersoverthedoor。

Havingsettledtheorderofproceeding，andtheroadtobetaken，westartedoffoncemoreandbegantomakeourwaythroughanill-

favouredBlackHollow，called，lessexpressively，theAmericanBottom。

Thepreviousdayhadbeen-nottosayhot，forthetermisweakandlukewarminitspowerofconveyinganideaofthetemperature。

Thetownhadbeenonfire；inablaze。Butatnightithadcomeontorainintorrents，andallnightlongithadrainedwithoutcessation。Wehadapairofverystronghorses，buttravelledattherateoflittlemorethanacoupleofmilesanhour，throughoneunbrokensloughofblackmudandwater。Ithadnovarietybutindepth。Nowitwasonlyhalfoverthewheels，nowithidtheaxletree，andnowthecoachsankdowninitalmosttothewindows。

Theairresoundedinalldirectionswiththeloudchirpingofthefrogs，who，withthepigs(acoarse，uglybreed，asunwholesome-

lookingasthoughtheywerethespontaneousgrowthofthecountry)，hadthewholescenetothemselves。Hereandtherewepassedaloghut:butthewretchedcabinswerewideapartandthinlyscattered，forthoughthesoilisveryrichinthisplace，fewpeoplecanexistinsuchadeadlyatmosphere。Oneithersideofthetrack，ifitdeservethename，wasthethick"bush；"andeverywherewasstagnant，slimy，rotten，filthywater。

Asitisthecustominthesepartstogiveahorseagallonorsoofcoldwaterwheneverheisinafoamwithheat，wehaltedforthatpurpose，ataloginninthewood，farremovedfromanyotherresidence。Itconsistedofoneroom，bare-roofedandbare-walledofcourse，withaloftabove。Theministeringpriestwasaswarthyyoungsavage，inashirtofcottonprintlikebed-furniture，andapairofraggedtrousers。Therewereacoupleofyoungboys，too，nearlynaked，lyingidlebythewell；andthey，andhe，andTHE

travellerattheinn，turnedouttolookatus。

Thetravellerwasanoldmanwithagreygristlybeardtwoincheslong，ashaggymoustacheofthesamehue，andenormouseyebrows；

whichalmostobscuredhislazy，semi-drunkenglance，ashestoodregardinguswithfoldedarms:poisinghimselfalternatelyuponhistoesandheels。Onbeingaddressedbyoneoftheparty，hedrewnearer，andsaid，rubbinghischin(whichscrapedunderhishornyhandlikefreshgravelbeneathanailedshoe)，thathewasfromDelaware，andhadlatelyboughtafarm"downthere，"pointingintooneofthemarsheswherethestuntedtreeswerethickest。Hewas"going，"headded，toSt。Louis，tofetchhisfamily，whomhehadleftbehind；butheseemedinnogreathurrytobringontheseincumbrances，forwhenwemovedaway，heloiteredbackintothecabin，andwasplainlybentonstoppingtheresolongashismoneylasted。Hewasagreatpoliticianofcourse，andexplainedhisopinionsatsomelengthtooneofourcompany；butIonlyrememberthatheconcludedwithtwosentiments，oneofwhichwas，Somebodyforever；andtheother，Blasteverybodyelse!whichisbynomeansabadabstractofthegeneralcreedinthesematters。

Whenthehorseswereswollenouttoabouttwicetheirnaturaldimensions(thereseemstobeanideahere，thatthiskindofinflationimprovestheirgoing)，wewentforwardagain，throughmudandmire，anddamp，andfesteringheat，andbrakeandbush，attendedalwaysbythemusicofthefrogsandpigs，untilnearlynoon，whenwehaltedataplacecalledBelleville。

Bellevillewasasmallcollectionofwoodenhouses，huddledtogetherintheveryheartofthebushandswamp。Manyofthemhadsingularlybrightdoorsofredandyellow；fortheplacehadbeenlatelyvisitedbyatravellingpainter，"whogotalong，"asIwastold，"byeatinghisway。"Thecriminalcourtwassitting，andwasatthatmomenttryingsomecriminalsforhorse-stealing:withwhomitwouldmostlikelygohard:forlivestockofallkindsbeingnecessarilyverymuchexposedinthewoods，isheldbythecommunityinratherhighervaluethanhumanlife；andforthisreason，juriesgenerallymakeapointoffindingallmenindictedforcattle-stealing，guilty，whetherorno。

Thehorsesbelongingtothebar，thejudge，andwitnesses，weretiedtotemporaryrackssetuproughlyintheroad；bywhichistobeunderstood，aforestpath，nearlyknee-deepinmudandslime。

Therewasanhotelinthisplace，which，likeallhotelsinAmerica，haditslargedining-roomforthepublictable。Itwasanodd，shambling，low-roofedout-house，half-cowshedandhalf-

kitchen，withacoarsebrowncanvastable-cloth，andtinsconcesstuckagainstthewalls，toholdcandlesatsupper-time。Thehorsemanhadgoneforwardtohavecoffeeandsomeeatablesprepared，andtheywerebythistimenearlyready。Hehadordered"wheat-breadandchickenfixings，"inpreferenceto"corn-breadandcommondoings。"Thelatterkindofrejectionincludesonlyporkandbacon。Theformercomprehendsbroiledham，sausages，vealcutlets，steaks，andsuchotherviandsofthatnatureasmaybesupposed，byatolerablywidepoeticalconstruction，"tofix"achickencomfortablyinthedigestiveorgansofanyladyorgentleman。

Ononeofthedoor-postsatthisinn，wasatinplate，whereonwasinscribedincharactersofgold，"DoctorCrocus；"andonasheetofpaper，pastedupbythesideofthisplate，wasawrittenannouncementthatDr。Crocuswouldthateveningdelivera

Thebeditselfwascoveredwithanoldpatch-workcounterpane。Theroomwasdestituteofcarpetorofcurtain。Therewasadampfireplacewithoutanystove，fullofwoodashes；achair，andaverysmalltable；andonthelast-namedpieceoffurniturewasdisplayed，ingrandarray，thedoctor"slibrary，consistingofsomehalf-dozengreasyoldbooks。

Now，itcertainlylookedaboutthelastapartmentonthewholeearthoutofwhichanymanwouldbelikelytogetanythingtodohimgood。Butthedoor，asIhavesaid，stoodcoaxinglyopen，andplainlysaidinconjunctionwiththechair，theportrait，thetable，andthebooks，"Walkin，gentlemen，walkin!Don"tbeill，gentlemen，whenyoumaybewellinnotime。DoctorCrocusishere，gentlemen，thecelebratedDr。Crocus!Dr。Crocushascomeallthiswaytocureyou，gentlemen。Ifyouhaven"theardofDr。Crocus，it"syourfault，gentlemen，wholivealittlewayoutoftheworldhere:notDr。Crocus"s。Walkin，gentlemen，walkin!"

Inthepassagebelow，whenIwentdown-stairsagain，wasDr。Crocushimself。AcrowdhadflockedinfromtheCourtHouse，andavoicefromamongthemcalledouttothelandlord，"Colonel!introduceDoctorCrocus。"

"Mr。Dickens，"saysthecolonel，"DoctorCrocus。"

UponwhichDoctorCrocus，whoisatall，fine-lookingScotchman，butratherfierceandwarlikeinappearanceforaprofessorofthepeacefulartofhealing，burstsoutoftheconcoursewithhisrightarmextended，andhischestthrownoutasfarasitwillpossiblycome，andsays:

"Yourcountryman，sir!"

WhereuponDoctorCrocusandIshakehands；andDoctorCrocuslooksasifIdidn"tbyanymeansrealisehisexpectations，which，inalinenblouse，andagreatstrawhat，withagreenribbon，andnogloves，andmyfaceandnoseprofuselyornamentedwiththestingsofmosquitoesandthebitesofbugs，itisverylikelyIdidnot。

"Longintheseparts，sir？"saysI。

"Threeorfourmonths，sir，"saystheDoctor。

"Doyouthinkofsoonreturningtotheoldcountry？"saysI。

DoctorCrocusmakesnoverbalanswer，butgivesmeanimploringlook，whichsayssoplainly"Willyouaskmethatagain，alittlelouder，ifyouplease？"thatIrepeatthequestion。

"Thinkofsoonreturningtotheoldcountry，sir!"repeatstheDoctor。

"Totheoldcountry，sir，"Irejoin。

DoctorCrocuslooksrounduponthecrowdtoobservetheeffectheproduces，rubshishands，andsays，inaveryloudvoice:

"Notyetawhile，sir，notyet。Youwon"tcatchmeatthatjustyet，sir。IamalittletoofondoffreedomforTHAT，sir。Ha，ha!It"snotsoeasyforamantotearhimselffromafreecountrysuchasthisis，sir。Ha，ha!No，no!Ha，ha!Noneofthattillone"sobligedtodoit，sir。No，no!"

AsDoctorCrocussaystheselatterwords，heshakeshishead，knowingly，andlaughsagain。Manyofthebystandersshaketheirheadsinconcertwiththedoctor，andlaughtoo，andlookateachotherasmuchastosay，"Aprettybrightandfirst-ratesortofchapisCrocus!"andunlessIamverymuchmistaken，agoodmanypeoplewenttothelecturethatnight，whoneverthoughtaboutphrenology，oraboutDoctorCrocuseither，inalltheirlivesbefore。

FromBelleville，wewenton，throughthesamedesolatekindofwaste，andconstantlyattended，withouttheintervalofamoment，bythesamemusic；until，atthreeo"clockintheafternoon，wehaltedoncemoreatavillagecalledLebanontoinflatethehorsesagain，andgivethemsomecornbesides:ofwhichtheystoodmuchinneed。Pendingthisceremony，Iwalkedintothevillage，whereI

metafull-sizeddwelling-housecomingdown-hillataroundtrot，drawnbyascoreormoreofoxen。

Thepublic-housewassoverycleanandgoodaone，thatthemanagersofthejauntresolvedtoreturntoitandputupthereforthenight，ifpossible。Thiscoursedecidedon，andthehorsesbeingwellrefreshed，weagainpushedforward，andcameuponthePrairieatsunset。

Itwouldbedifficulttosaywhy，orhow-thoughitwaspossiblyfromhavingheardandreadsomuchaboutit-buttheeffectonmewasdisappointment。Lookingtowardsthesettingsun，therelay，stretchedoutbeforemyview，avastexpanseoflevelground；

unbroken，savebyonethinlineoftrees，whichscarcelyamountedtoascratchuponthegreatblank；untilitmettheglowingsky，whereinitseemedtodip:minglingwithitsrichcolours，andmellowinginitsdistantblue。Thereitlay，atranquilseaorlakewithoutwater，ifsuchasimilebeadmissible，withthedaygoingdownuponit:afewbirdswheelinghereandthere:andsolitudeandsilencereigningparamountaround。Butthegrasswasnotyethigh；therewerebareblackpatchesontheground；andthefewwildflowersthattheeyecouldsee，werepoorandscanty。

Greatasthepicturewas，itsveryflatnessandextent，whichleftnothingtotheimagination，tameditdownandcrampeditsinterest。

IfeltlittleofthatsenseoffreedomandexhilarationwhichaScottishheathinspires，orevenourEnglishdownsawaken。Itwaslonelyandwild，butoppressiveinitsbarrenmonotony。IfeltthatintraversingthePrairies，Icouldneverabandonmyselftothescene，forgetfulofallelse；asIshoulddoinstinctively，weretheheatherunderneathmyfeet，oraniron-boundcoastbeyond；

butshouldoftenglancetowardsthedistantandfrequently-recedinglineofthehorizon，andwishitgainedandpassed。Itisnotascenetobeforgotten，butitisscarcelyone，Ithink(atallevents，asIsawit)，torememberwithmuchpleasure，ortocovetthelooking-onagain，inafter-life。

Weencampednearasolitarylog-house，forthesakeofitswater，anddinedupontheplain。Thebasketscontainedroastfowls，buffalo"stongue(anexquisitedainty，bytheway)，ham，bread，cheese，andbutter；biscuits，champagne，sherry；lemonsandsugarforpunch；andabundanceofroughice。Themealwasdelicious，andtheentertainerswerethesoulofkindnessandgoodhumour。Ihaveoftenrecalledthatcheerfulpartytomypleasantrecollectionsince，andshallnoteasilyforget，injunketingsnearerhomewithfriendsofolderdate，mybooncompanionsonthePrairie。

ReturningtoLebanonthatnight，welayatthelittleinnatwhichwehadhaltedintheafternoon。InpointofcleanlinessandcomfortitwouldhavesufferedbynocomparisonwithanyEnglishalehouse，ofahomelykind，inEngland。

Risingatfiveo"clocknextmorning，Itookawalkaboutthevillage:noneofthehouseswerestrollingaboutto-day，butitwasearlyforthemyet，perhaps:andthenamusedmyselfbylounginginakindoffarm-yardbehindthetavern，ofwhichtheleadingfeatureswere，astrangejumbleofroughshedsforstables；

arudecolonnade，builtasacoolplaceofsummerresort；adeepwell；agreatearthenmoundforkeepingvegetablesin，inwintertime；andapigeon-house，whoselittleapertureslooked，astheydoinallpigeon-houses，verymuchtoosmallfortheadmissionoftheplumpandswelling-breastedbirdswhowerestruttingaboutit，thoughtheytriedtogetinneversohard。Thatinterestexhausted，Itookasurveyoftheinn"stwoparlours，whichweredecoratedwithcolouredprintsofWashington，andPresidentMadison，andofawhite-facedyounglady(muchspeckledbytheflies)，whohelduphergoldneck-chainfortheadmirationofthespectator，andinformedalladmiringcomersthatshewas"JustSeventeen:"althoughIshouldhavethoughtherolder。Inthebestroomweretwooilportraitsofthekit-catsize，representingthelandlordandhisinfantson；bothlookingasboldaslions，andstaringoutofthecanvaswithanintensitythatwouldhavebeencheapatanyprice。Theywerepainted，Ithink，bytheartistwhohadtoucheduptheBellevilledoorswithredandgold；forIseemedtorecognisehisstyleimmediately。

Afterbreakfast，westartedtoreturnbyadifferentwayfromthatwhichwehadtakenyesterday，andcomingupatteno"clockwithanencampmentofGermanemigrantscarryingtheirgoodsincarts，whohadmadearousingfirewhichtheywerejustquitting，stoppedtheretorefresh。Andverypleasantthefirewas；for，hotthoughithadbeenyesterday，itwasquitecoldto-day，andthewindblewkeenly。Loominginthedistance，aswerodealong，wasanotheroftheancientIndianburial-places，calledTheMonks"Mound；inmemoryofabodyoffanaticsoftheorderofLaTrappe，whofoundedadesolateconventthere，manyyearsago，whentherewerenosettlerswithinathousandmiles，andwereallsweptoffbytheperniciousclimate:inwhichlamentablefatality，fewrationalpeoplewillsuppose，perhaps，thatsocietyexperiencedanyveryseveredeprivation。

Thetrackofto-dayhadthesamefeaturesasthetrackofyesterday。Therewastheswamp，thebush，andtheperpetualchorusoffrogs，therankunseemlygrowth，theunwholesomesteamingearth。

Hereandthere，andfrequentlytoo，weencounteredasolitarybroken-downwaggon，fullofsomenewsettler"sgoods。Itwasapitifulsighttoseeoneofthesevehiclesdeepinthemire；theaxle-treebroken；thewheellyingidlybyitsside；themangonemilesaway，tolookforassistance；thewomanseatedamongtheirwanderinghouseholdgodswithababyatherbreast，apictureofforlorn，dejectedpatience；theteamofoxencrouchingdownmournfullyinthemud，andbreathingforthsuchcloudsofvapourfromtheirmouthsandnostrils，thatallthedampmistandfogaroundseemedtohavecomedirectfromthem。

Induetimewemusteredonceagainbeforethemerchanttailor"s，andhavingdoneso，crossedovertothecityintheferry-boat:

passing，ontheway，aspotcalledBloodyIsland，theduelling-

groundofSt。Louis，andsodesignatedinhonourofthelastfatalcombatfoughtthere，whichwaswithpistols，breasttobreast。

Bothcombatantsfelldeadupontheground；andpossiblysomerationalpeoplemaythinkofthem，asofthegloomymadmenontheMonks"Mound，thattheywerenogreatlosstothecommunity。

CHAPTERXIV-RETURNTOCINCINNATI。ASTAGE-COACHRIDEFROMTHAT

CITYTOCOLUMBUS，ANDTHENCETOSANDUSKY。SO，BYLAKEERIE，TOTHE

FALLSOFNIAGARA

ASIhadadesiretotravelthroughtheinteriorofthestateofOhio，andto"strikethelakes，"asthephraseis，atasmalltowncalledSandusky，towhichthatroutewouldconductusonourwaytoNiagara，wehadtoreturnfromSt。Louisbythewaywehadcome，andtoretraceourformertrackasfarasCincinnati。

ThedayonwhichweweretotakeleaveofSt。Louisbeingveryfine；andthesteamboat，whichwastohavestartedIdon"tknowhowearlyinthemorning，postponing，forthethirdorfourthtime，herdepartureuntiltheafternoon；werodeforwardtoanoldFrenchvillageontheriver，calledproperlyCarondelet，andnicknamedVidePoche，andarrangedthatthepacketshouldcallforusthere。

Theplaceconsistedofafewpoorcottages，andtwoorthreepublic-houses；thestateofwhoselarderscertainlyseemedtojustifytheseconddesignationofthevillage，fortherewasnothingtoeatinanyofthem。Atlength，however，bygoingbacksomehalfamileorso，wefoundasolitaryhousewherehamandcoffeewereprocurable；andtherewetarriedtowaittheadventoftheboat，whichwouldcomeinsightfromthegreenbeforethedoor，alongwayoff。

Itwasaneat，unpretendingvillagetavern，andwetookourrepastinaquaintlittleroomwithabedinit，decoratedwithsomeoldoilpaintings，whichintheirtimehadprobablydonedutyinaCatholicchapelormonastery。Thefarewasverygood，andservedwithgreatcleanliness。Thehousewaskeptbyacharacteristicoldcouple，withwhomwehadalongtalk，andwhowereperhapsaverygoodsampleofthatkindofpeopleintheWest。

Thelandlordwasadry，tough，hard-facedoldfellow(notsoveryoldeither，forhewasbutjustturnedsixty，Ishouldthink)，whohadbeenoutwiththemilitiainthelastwarwithEngland，andhadseenallkindsofservice，-exceptabattle；andhehadbeenverynearseeingthat，headded:verynear。Hehadallhislifebeenrestlessandlocomotive，withanirresistibledesireforchange；

andwasstillthesonofhisoldself:forifhehadnothingtokeephimathome，hesaid(slightlyjerkinghishatandhisthumbtowardsthewindowoftheroominwhichtheoldladysat，aswestoodtalkinginfrontofthehouse)，hewouldcleanuphismusket，andbeofftoTexasto-morrowmorning。HewasoneoftheverymanydescendantsofCainpropertothiscontinent，whoseemdestinedfromtheirbirthtoserveaspioneersinthegreathumanarmy:whogladlygoonfromyeartoyearextendingitsoutposts，andleavinghomeafterhomebehindthem；anddieatlast，utterlyregardlessoftheirgravesbeingleftthousandsofmilesbehind，bythewanderinggenerationwhosucceed。

Hiswifewasadomesticated，kind-heartedoldsoul，whohadcomewithhim，"fromthequeencityoftheworld，"which，itseemed，wasPhiladelphia；buthadnoloveforthisWesterncountry，andindeedhadlittlereasontobearitany；havingseenherchildren，onebyone，diehereoffever，inthefullprimeandbeautyoftheiryouth。Herheartwassore，shesaid，tothinkofthem；andtotalkonthistheme，eventostrangers，inthatblightedplace，sofarfromheroldhome，easeditsomewhat，andbecameamelancholypleasure。

Theboatappearingtowardsevening，webadeadieutothepooroldladyandhervagrantspouse，andmakingforthenearestlanding-

place，weresoononboardTheMessengeragain，inouroldcabin，andsteamingdowntheMississippi。

Ifthecomingupthisriver，slowlymakingheadagainstthestream，beanirksomejourney，theshootingdownitwiththeturbidcurrentisalmostworse；forthentheboat，proceedingattherateoftwelveorfifteenmilesanhour，hastoforceitspassagethroughalabyrinthoffloatinglogs，which，inthedark，itisoftenimpossibletoseebeforehandoravoid。Allthatnight，thebellwasneversilentforfiveminutesatatime；andaftereveryringthevesselreeledagain，sometimesbeneathasingleblow，sometimesbeneathadozendealtinquicksuccession，thelightestofwhichseemedmorethanenoughtobeatinherfrailkeel，asthoughithadbeenpie-crust。Lookingdownuponthefilthyriverafterdark，itseemedtobealivewithmonsters，astheseblackmassesrolleduponthesurface，orcamestartingupagain，headfirst，whentheboat，inploughingherwayamongashoalofsuchobstructions，droveafewamongthemforthemomentunderwater。Sometimestheenginestoppedduringalonginterval，andthenbeforeherandbehind，andgatheringcloseaboutheronallsides，weresomanyoftheseill-

favouredobstaclesthatshewasfairlyhemmedin；thecentreofafloatingisland；andwasconstrainedtopauseuntiltheyparted，somewhere，asdarkcloudswilldobeforethewind，andopenedbydegreesachannelout。

Ingoodtimenextmorning，however，wecameagaininsightofthedetestablemorasscalledCairo；andstoppingtheretotakeinwood，layalongsideabarge，whosestartingtimbersscarcelyheldtogether。Itwasmooredtothebank，andonitssidewaspainted"CoffeeHouse；"thatbeing，Isuppose，thefloatingparadisetowhichthepeopleflyforshelterwhentheylosetheirhousesforamonthortwobeneaththehideouswatersoftheMississippi。Butlookingsouthwardfromthispoint，wehadthesatisfactionofseeingthatintolerableriverdraggingitsslimylengthanduglyfreightabruptlyofftowardsNewOrleans；andpassingayellowlinewhichstretchedacrossthecurrent，wereagainupontheclearOhio，never，Itrust，toseetheMississippimore，savingintroubleddreamsandnightmares。Leavingitforthecompanyofitssparklingneighbour，waslikethetransitionfrompaintoease，ortheawakeningfromahorriblevisiontocheerfulrealities。

WearrivedatLouisvilleonthefourthnight，andgladlyavailedourselvesofitsexcellenthotel。NextdaywewentonintheBenFranklin，abeautifulmailsteamboat，andreachedCincinnatishortlyaftermidnight。Beingbythistimenearlytiredofsleepinguponshelves，wehadremainedawaketogoashorestraightway；andgropingapassageacrossthedarkdecksofotherboats，andamonglabyrinthsofengine-machineryandleakingcasksofmolasses，wereachedthestreets，knockeduptheporteratthehotelwherewehadstayedbefore，andwere，toourgreatjoy，safelyhousedsoonafterwards。

WerestedbutonedayatCincinnati，andthenresumedourjourneytoSandusky。Asitcomprisedtwovarietiesofstage-coachtravelling，which，withthoseIhavealreadyglancedat，comprehendthemaincharacteristicsofthismodeoftransitinAmerica，Iwilltakethereaderasourfellow-passenger，andpledgemyselftoperformthedistancewithallpossibledespatch。

OurplaceofdestinationinthefirstinstanceisColumbus。ItisdistantaboutahundredandtwentymilesfromCincinnati，butthereisamacadamisedroad(rareblessing!)thewholeway，andtherateoftravellinguponitissixmilesanhour。

Westartateighto"clockinthemorning，inagreatmail-coach，whosehugecheeksaresoveryruddyandplethoric，thatitappearstobetroubledwithatendencyofbloodtothehead。Dropsicalitcertainlyis，foritwillholdadozenpassengersinside。But，wonderfultoadd，itisverycleanandbright，beingnearlynew；

andrattlesthroughthestreetsofCincinnatigaily。

Ourwayliesthroughabeautifulcountry，richlycultivated，andluxuriantinitspromiseofanabundantharvest。SometimeswepassafieldwherethestrongbristlingstalksofIndiancornlooklikeacropofwalking-sticks，andsometimesanenclosurewherethegreenwheatisspringingupamongalabyrinthofstumps；theprimitiveworm-fenceisuniversal，andanuglythingitis；butthefarmsareneatlykept，and，saveforthesedifferences，onemightbetravellingjustnowinKent。

Weoftenstoptowaterataroadsideinn，whichisalwaysdullandsilent。Thecoachmandismountsandfillshisbucket，andholdsittothehorses"heads。Thereisscarcelyeveranyonetohelphim；

thereareseldomanyloungersstandinground；andneveranystable-

companywithjokestocrack。Sometimes，whenwehavechangedourteam，thereisadifficultyinstartingagain，arisingoutoftheprevalentmodeofbreakingayounghorse:whichistocatchhim，harnesshimagainsthiswill，andputhiminastage-coachwithoutfurthernotice:butwegetonsomehoworother，afteragreatmanykicksandaviolentstruggle；andjogonasbeforeagain。

Occasionally，whenwestoptochange，sometwoorthreehalf-

drunkenloaferswillcomeloiteringoutwiththeirhandsintheirpockets，orwillbeseenkickingtheirheelsinrocking-chairs，orloungingonthewindow-sill，orsittingonarailwithinthecolonnade:theyhavenotoftenanythingtosaythough，eithertousortoeachother，butsitthereidlystaringatthecoachandhorses。Thelandlordoftheinnisusuallyamongthem，andseems，ofalltheparty，tobetheleastconnectedwiththebusinessofthehouse。Indeedheiswithreferencetothetavern，whatthedriverisinrelationtothecoachandpassengers:whateverhappensinhissphereofaction，heisquiteindifferent，andperfectlyeasyinhismind。

Thefrequentchangeofcoachmenworksnochangeorvarietyinthecoachman"scharacter。Heisalwaysdirty，sullen，andtaciturn。

Ifhebecapableofsmartnessofanykind，moralorphysical，hehasafacultyofconcealingitwhichistrulymarvellous。Heneverspeakstoyouasyousitbesidehimonthebox，andifyouspeaktohim，heanswers(ifatall)inmonosyllables。Hepointsoutnothingontheroad，andseldomlooksatanything:being，toallappearance，thoroughlywearyofitandofexistencegenerally。Astodoingthehonoursofhiscoach，hisbusiness，asIhavesaid，iswiththehorses。Thecoachfollowsbecauseitisattachedtothemandgoesonwheels:notbecauseyouareinit。Sometimes，towardstheendofalongstage，hesuddenlybreaksoutintoadiscordantfragmentofanelectionsong，buthisfaceneversingsalongwithhim:itisonlyhisvoice，andnotoftenthat。

Healwayschewsandalwaysspits，andneverencumbershimselfwithapocket-handkerchief。Theconsequencestotheboxpassenger，especiallywhenthewindblowstowardshim，arenotagreeable。

Wheneverthecoachstops，andyoucanhearthevoicesoftheinsidepassengers；orwheneveranybystanderaddressesthem，oranyoneamongthem；ortheyaddresseachother；youwillhearonephraserepeatedoverandoverandoveragaintothemostextraordinaryextent。Itisanordinaryandunpromisingphraseenough，beingneithermorenorlessthan"Yes，sir；"butitisadaptedtoeveryvarietyofcircumstance，andfillsupeverypauseintheconversation。Thus:-