第10章

tops，ofscatteredcabins；childrenrunningtothedoors；dogsburstingouttobark，whomwecouldseewithouthearing:terrifiedpigsscamperinghomewards；familiessittingoutintheirrudegardens；cowsgazingupwardwithastupidindifference；menintheirshirt-sleeveslookingonattheirunfinishedhouses，planningoutto-morrow"swork；andweridingonward，highabovethem，likeawhirlwind。Itwasamusing，too，whenwehaddined，andrattleddownasteeppass，havingnoothermovingpowerthantheweightofthecarriagesthemselves，toseetheenginereleased，longafterus，comebuzzingdownalone，likeagreatinsect，itsbackofgreenandgoldsoshininginthesun，thatifithadspreadapairofwingsandsoaredaway，noonewouldhavehadoccasion，asI

fancied，fortheleastsurprise。Butitstoppedshortofusinaverybusiness-likemannerwhenwereachedthecanal:and，beforeweleftthewharf，wentpantingupthishillagain，withthepassengerswhohadwaitedourarrivalforthemeansoftraversingtheroadbywhichwehadcome。

OntheMondayevening，furnacefiresandclankinghammersonthebanksofthecanal，warnedusthatweapproachedtheterminationofthispartofourjourney。Aftergoingthroughanotherdreamyplace-alongaqueductacrosstheAlleghanyRiver，whichwasstrangerthanthebridgeatHarrisburg，beingavast，low，woodenchamberfullofwater-weemergeduponthatuglyconfusionofbacksofbuildingsandcrazygalleriesandstairs，whichalwaysabutsonwater，whetheritberiver，sea，canal，orditch:andwereatPittsburg。

PittsburgislikeBirminghaminEngland；atleastitstownspeoplesayso。Settingasidethestreets，theshops，thehouses，waggons，factories，publicbuildings，andpopulation，perhapsitmaybe。Itcertainlyhasagreatquantityofsmokehangingaboutit，andisfamousforitsiron-works。BesidestheprisontowhichIhavealreadyreferred，thistowncontainsaprettyarsenalandotherinstitutions。ItisverybeautifullysituatedontheAlleghanyRiver，overwhichtherearetwobridges；andthevillasofthewealthiercitizenssprinkledaboutthehighgroundsintheneighbourhood，areprettyenough。Welodgedatamostexcellenthotel，andwereadmirablyserved。Asusualitwasfullofboarders，wasverylarge，andhadabroadcolonnadetoeverystoryofthehouse。

Wetarriedherethreedays。OurnextpointwasCincinnati:andasthiswasasteamboatjourney，andwesternsteamboatsusuallyblowuponeortwoaweekintheseason，itwasadvisabletocollectopinionsinreferencetothecomparativesafetyofthevesselsboundthatway，thenlyingintheriver。OnecalledtheMessengerwasthebestrecommended。Shehadbeenadvertisedtostartpositively，everydayforafortnightorso，andhadnotgoneyet，nordidhercaptainseemtohaveanyveryfixedintentiononthesubject。Butthisisthecustom:forifthelawweretobinddownafreeandindependentcitizentokeephiswordwiththepublic，whatwouldbecomeofthelibertyofthesubject？Besides，itisinthewayoftrade。Andifpassengersbedecoyedinthewayoftrade，andpeoplebeinconveniencedinthewayoftrade，whatman，whoisasharptradesmanhimself，shallsay，"Wemustputastoptothis？"

Impressedbythedeepsolemnityofthepublicannouncement，I

(beingthenignorantoftheseusages)wasforhurryingonboardinabreathlessstate，immediately；butreceivingprivateandconfidentialinformationthattheboatwouldcertainlynotstartuntilFriday，ApriltheFirst，wemadeourselvesverycomfortableinthemeanwhile，andwentonboardatnoonthatday。

CHAPTERXI-FROMPITTSBURGTOCINCINNATIINAWESTERNSTEAMBOAT。

CINCINNATI

THEMessengerwasoneamongacrowdofhigh-pressuresteamboats，clusteredtogetherbyawharf-side，which，lookeddownuponfromtherisinggroundthatformsthelanding-place，andbackedbytheloftybankontheoppositesideoftheriver，appearednolargerthansomanyfloatingmodels。Shehadsomefortypassengersonboard，exclusiveofthepoorerpersonsonthelowerdeck；andinhalfanhour，orless，proceededonherway。

Wehad，forourselves，atinystate-roomwithtwoberthsinit，openingoutoftheladies"cabin。Therewas，undoubtedly，somethingsatisfactoryinthis"location，"inasmuchasitwasinthestern，andwehadbeenagreatmanytimesverygravelyrecommendedtokeepasfaraftaspossible，"becausethesteamboatsgenerallyblewupforward。"Norwasthisanunnecessarycaution，astheoccurrenceandcircumstancesofmorethanonesuchfatalityduringourstaysufficientlytestified。Apartfromthissourceofself-congratulation，itwasanunspeakablerelieftohaveanyplace，nomatterhowconfined，whereonecouldbealone:andastherowoflittlechambersofwhichthiswasone，hadeachasecondglass-doorbesidesthatintheladies"cabin，whichopenedonanarrowgalleryoutsidethevessel，wheretheotherpassengersseldomcame，andwhereonecouldsitinpeaceandgazeupontheshiftingprospect，wetookpossessionofournewquarterswithmuchpleasure。

IfthenativepacketsIhavealreadydescribedbeunlikeanythingweareinthehabitofseeingonwater，thesewesternvesselsarestillmoreforeigntoalltheideasweareaccustomedtoentertainofboats。Ihardlyknowwhattolikenthemto，orhowtodescribethem。

Inthefirstplace，theyhavenomast，cordage，tackle，rigging，orothersuchboat-likegear；norhavetheyanythingintheirshapeatallcalculatedtoremindoneofaboat"shead，stem，sides，orkeel。Exceptthattheyareinthewater，anddisplayacoupleofpaddle-boxes，theymightbeintended，foranythingthatappearstothecontrary，toperformsomeunknownservice，highanddry，uponamountaintop。Thereisnovisibledeck，even:nothingbutalong，black，uglyroofcoveredwithburnt-outfeatherysparks；abovewhichtowertwoironchimneys，andahoarseescapevalve，andaglasssteerage-house。Then，inorderastheeyedescendstowardsthewater，arethesides，anddoors，andwindowsofthestate-

rooms，jumbledasoddlytogetherasthoughtheyformedasmallstreet，builtbythevaryingtastesofadozenmen:thewholeissupportedonbeamsandpillarsrestingonadirtybarge，butafewinchesabovethewater"sedge:andinthenarrowspacebetweenthisupperstructureandthisbarge"sdeck，arethefurnacefiresandmachinery，openatthesidestoeverywindthatblows，andeverystormofrainitdrivesalongitspath。

Passingoneoftheseboatsatnight，andseeingthegreatbodyoffire，exposedasIhavejustdescribed，thatragesandroarsbeneaththefrailpileofpaintedwood:themachinery，notwardedofforguardedinanyway，butdoingitsworkinthemidstofthecrowdofidlersandemigrantsandchildren，whothrongthelowerdeck:underthemanagement，too，ofrecklessmenwhoseacquaintancewithitsmysteriesmayhavebeenofsixmonths"

standing:onefeelsdirectlythatthewonderis，notthatthereshouldbesomanyfatalaccidents，butthatanyjourneyshouldbesafelymade。

Within，thereisonelongnarrowcabin，thewholelengthoftheboat；fromwhichthestate-roomsopen，onbothsides。Asmallportionofitatthesternispartitionedofffortheladies；andthebarisattheoppositeextreme。Thereisalongtabledownthecentre，andateitherendastove。Thewashingapparatusisforward，onthedeck。Itisalittlebetterthanonboardthecanalboat，butnotmuch。Inallmodesoftravelling，theAmericancustoms，withreferencetothemeansofpersonalcleanlinessandwholesomeablution，areextremelynegligentandfilthy；andI

stronglyinclinetothebeliefthataconsiderableamountofillnessisreferabletothiscause。

WearetobeonboardtheMessengerthreedays:arrivingatCincinnati(barringaccidents)onMondaymorning。Therearethreemealsaday。Breakfastatseven，dinnerathalf-pasttwelve，supperaboutsix。Ateach，thereareagreatmanysmalldishesandplatesuponthetable，withverylittleinthem；sothatalthoughthereiseveryappearanceofamighty"spread，"thereisseldomreallymorethanajoint:exceptforthosewhofancyslicesofbeet-root，shredsofdriedbeef，complicatedentanglementsofyellowpickle；maize，Indiancorn，apple-sauce，andpumpkin。

Somepeoplefancyalltheselittledaintiestogether(andsweetpreservesbeside)，bywayofrelishtotheirroastpig。Theyaregenerallythosedyspepticladiesandgentlemenwhoeatunheard-ofquantitiesofhotcornbread(almostasgoodforthedigestionasakneadedpin-cushion)，forbreakfast，andforsupper。Thosewhodonotobservethiscustom，andwhohelpthemselvesseveraltimesinstead，usuallysucktheirknivesandforksmeditatively，untiltheyhavedecidedwhattotakenext:thenpullthemoutoftheirmouths:puttheminthedish；helpthemselves；andfalltoworkagain。Atdinner，thereisnothingtodrinkuponthetable，butgreatjugsfullofcoldwater。Nobodysaysanything，atanymeal，toanybody。Allthepassengersareverydismal，andseemtohavetremendoussecretsweighingontheirminds。Thereisnoconversation，nolaughter，nocheerfulness，nosociality，exceptinspitting；andthatisdoneinsilentfellowshiproundthestove，whenthemealisover。Everymansitsdown，dullandlanguid；

swallowshisfareasifbreakfasts，dinners，andsuppers，werenecessitiesofnaturenevertobecoupledwithrecreationorenjoyment；andhavingboltedhisfoodinagloomysilence，boltshimself，inthesamestate。Butfortheseanimalobservances，youmightsupposethewholemaleportionofthecompanytobethemelancholyghostsofdepartedbook-keepers，whohadfallendeadatthedesk:suchistheirwearyairofbusinessandcalculation。

Undertakersondutywouldbesprightlybesidethem；andacollationoffuneral-bakedmeats，incomparisonwiththesemeals，wouldbeasparklingfestivity。

Thepeopleareallalike，too。Thereisnodiversityofcharacter。

Theytravelaboutonthesameerrands，sayanddothesamethingsinexactlythesamemanner，andfollowinthesamedullcheerlessround。Alldownthelongtable，thereisscarcelyamanwhoisinanythingdifferentfromhisneighbour。Itisquitearelieftohave，sittingopposite，thatlittlegirloffifteenwiththeloquaciouschin:who，todoherjustice，actsuptoit，andfullyidentifiesnature"shandwriting，forofallthesmallchatterboxesthateverinvadedthereposeofdrowsyladies"cabin，sheisthefirstandforemost。Thebeautifulgirl，whositsalittlebeyondher-fartherdownthetablethere-marriedtheyoungmanwiththedarkwhiskers，whositsbeyondHER，onlylastmonth。TheyaregoingtosettleintheveryFarWest，wherehehaslivedfouryears，butwhereshehasneverbeen。Theywerebothoverturnedinastage-coachtheotherday(abadomenanywhereelse，whereoverturnsarenotsocommon)，andhishead，whichbearsthemarksofarecentwound，isboundupstill。Shewashurttoo，atthesametime，andlayinsensibleforsomedays；brightashereyesare，now。

Furtherdownstill，sitsamanwhoisgoingsomemilesbeyondtheirplaceofdestination，to"improve"anewly-discoveredcoppermine。

Hecarriesthevillage-thatistobe-withhim:afewframecottages，andanapparatusforsmeltingthecopper。Hecarriesitspeopletoo。TheyarepartlyAmericanandpartlyIrish，andherdtogetheronthelowerdeck；wheretheyamusedthemselveslasteveningtillthenightwasprettyfaradvanced，byalternatelyfiringoffpistolsandsinginghymns。

They，andtheveryfewwhohavebeenleftattabletwentyminutes，rise，andgoaway。Wedosotoo；andpassingthroughourlittlestate-room，resumeourseatsinthequietgallerywithout。

Afinebroadriveralways，butinsomepartsmuchwiderthaninothers:andthenthereisusuallyagreenisland，coveredwithtrees，dividingitintotwostreams。Occasionally，westopforafewminutes，maybetotakeinwood，maybeforpassengers，atsomesmalltownorvillage(Ioughttosaycity，everyplaceisacityhere)；butthebanksareforthemostpartdeepsolitudes，overgrownwithtrees，which，hereabouts，arealreadyinleafandverygreen。Formiles，andmiles，andmiles，thesesolitudesareunbrokenbyanysignofhumanlifeortraceofhumanfootstep；norisanythingseentomoveaboutthembutthebluejay，whosecolourissobright，andyetsodelicate，thatitlookslikeaflyingflower。Atlengthenedintervalsalogcabin，withitslittlespaceofclearedlandaboutit，nestlesunderarisingground，andsendsitsthreadofbluesmokecurlingupintothesky。Itstandsinthecornerofthepoorfieldofwheat，whichisfullofgreatunsightlystumps，likeearthybutchers"-blocks。Sometimesthegroundisonlyjustnowcleared:thefelledtreeslyingyetuponthesoil:andthelog-houseonlythismorningbegun。Aswepassthisclearing，thesettlerleansuponhisaxeorhammer，andlookswistfullyatthepeoplefromtheworld。Thechildrencreepoutofthetemporaryhut，whichislikeagipsytentupontheground，andclaptheirhandsandshout。Thedogonlyglancesroundatus，andthenlooksupintohismaster"sfaceagain，asifhewererendereduneasybyanysuspensionofthecommonbusiness，andhadnothingmoretodowithpleasurers。Andstillthereisthesame，eternalforeground。

Theriverhaswashedawayitsbanks，andstatelytreeshavefallendownintothestream。Somehavebeentheresolong，thattheyaremeredry，grizzlyskeletons。Somehavejusttoppledover，andhavingearthyetabouttheirroots，arebathingtheirgreenheadsintheriver，andputtingforthnewshootsandbranches。Somearealmostslidingdown，asyoulookatthem。Andsomeweredrownedsolongago，thattheirbleachedarmsstartoutfromthemiddleofthecurrent，andseemtotrytograsptheboat，anddragitunderwater。

Throughsuchasceneasthis，theunwieldymachinetakesitshoarse，sullenway:venting，ateveryrevolutionofthepaddles，aloudhigh-pressureblast；enough，onewouldthink，towakenupthehostofIndianswholieburiedinagreatmoundyonder:soold，thatmightyoaksandotherforesttreeshavestrucktheirrootsintoitsearth；andsohigh，thatitisahill，evenamongthehillsthatNatureplantedroundit。Theveryriver，asthoughitsharedone"sfeelingsofcompassionfortheextincttribeswholivedsopleasantlyhere，intheirblessedignoranceofwhiteexistence，hundredsofyearsago，stealsoutofitswaytoripplenearthismound:andtherearefewplaceswheretheOhiosparklesmorebrightlythanintheBigGraveCreek。

AllthisIseeasIsitinthelittlestern-gallerymentionedjustnow。Eveningslowlystealsuponthelandscapeandchangesitbeforeme，whenwestoptosetsomeemigrantsashore。

Fivemen，asmanywomen，andalittlegirl。Alltheirworldlygoodsareabag，alargechestandanoldchair:one，old，high-

backed，rush-bottomedchair:asolitarysettlerinitself。Theyarerowedashoreintheboat，whilethevesselstandsalittleoffawaitingitsreturn，thewaterbeingshallow。Theyarelandedatthefootofahighbank，onthesummitofwhichareafewlogcabins，attainableonlybyalongwindingpath。Itisgrowingdusk；butthesunisveryred，andshinesinthewaterandonsomeofthetree-tops，likefire。

Themengetoutoftheboatfirst；helpoutthewomen；takeoutthebag，thechest，thechair；bidtherowers"good-bye；"andshovetheboatoffforthem。Atthefirstplashoftheoarsinthewater，theoldestwomanofthepartysitsdownintheoldchair，closetothewater"sedge，withoutspeakingaword。Noneoftheotherssitdown，thoughthechestislargeenoughformanyseats。Theyallstandwheretheylanded，asifstrickenintostone；andlookaftertheboat。Sotheyremain，quitestillandsilent:theoldwomanandheroldchair，inthecentrethebagandchestupontheshore，withoutanybodyheedingthemalleyesfixedupontheboat。Itcomesalongside，ismadefast，themenjumponboard，theengineisputinmotion，andwegohoarselyonagain。Theretheystandyet，withoutthemotionofahand。Icanseethemthroughmyglass，when，inthedistanceandincreasingdarkness，theyaremerespeckstotheeye:lingeringtherestill:theoldwomanintheoldchair，andalltherestabouther:notstirringintheleastdegree。AndthusIslowlylosethem。

Thenightisdark，andweproceedwithintheshadowofthewoodedbank，whichmakesitdarker。Afterglidingpastthesombremazeofboughsforalongtime，wecomeuponanopenspacewherethetalltreesareburning。Theshapeofeverybranchandtwigisexpressedinadeepredglow，andasthelightwindstirsandrufflesit，theyseemtovegetateinfire。Itissuchasightaswereadofinlegendsofenchantedforests:savingthatitissadtoseethesenobleworkswastingawaysoawfully，alone；andtothinkhowmanyyearsmustcomeandgobeforethemagicthatcreatedthemwillreartheirlikeuponthisgroundagain。Butthetimewillcome；andwhen，intheirchangedashes，thegrowthofcenturiesunbornhasstruckitsroots，therestlessmenofdistantageswillrepairtotheseagainunpeopledsolitudes；andtheirfellows，incitiesfaraway，thatslumbernow，perhaps，beneaththerollingsea，willreadinlanguagestrangetoanyearsinbeingnow，butveryoldtothem，ofprimevalforestswheretheaxewasneverheard，andwherethejungledgroundwasnevertroddenbyahumanfoot。

Midnightandsleepblotoutthesescenesandthoughts:andwhenthemorningshinesagain，itgildsthehouse-topsofalivelycity，beforewhosebroadpavedwharftheboatismoored；withotherboats，andflags，andmovingwheels，andhumofmenaroundit；asthoughtherewerenotasolitaryorsilentroodofgroundwithinthecompassofathousandmiles。

Cincinnatiisabeautifulcity；cheerful，thriving，andanimated。

Ihavenotoftenseenaplacethatcommendsitselfsofavourablyandpleasantlytoastrangeratthefirstglanceasthisdoes:

withitscleanhousesofredandwhite，itswell-pavedroads，andfoot-waysofbrighttile。Nordoesitbecomelessprepossessingonacloseracquaintance。Thestreetsarebroadandairy，theshopsextremelygood，theprivateresidencesremarkablefortheireleganceandneatness。Thereissomethingofinventionandfancyinthevaryingstylesoftheselattererections，which，afterthedullcompanyofthesteamboat，isperfectlydelightful，asconveyinganassurancethattherearesuchqualitiesstillinexistence。Thedispositiontoornamenttheseprettyvillasandrenderthemattractive，leadstothecultureoftreesandflowers，andthelayingoutofwell-keptgardens，thesightofwhich，tothosewhowalkalongthestreets，isinexpressiblyrefreshingandagreeable。Iwasquitecharmedwiththeappearanceofthetown，anditsadjoiningsuburbofMountAuburn:fromwhichthecity，lyinginanamphitheatreofhills，formsapictureofremarkablebeauty，andisseentogreatadvantage。

TherehappenedtobeagreatTemperanceConventionheldhereonthedayafterourarrival；andastheorderofmarchbroughttheprocessionunderthewindowsofthehotelinwhichwelodged，whentheystartedinthemorning，Ihadagoodopportunityofseeingit。

Itcomprisedseveralthousandmen；themembersofvarious"WashingtonAuxiliaryTemperanceSocieties；"andwasmarshalledbyofficersonhorseback，whocanteredbrisklyupanddowntheline，withscarvesandribbonsofbrightcoloursflutteringoutbehindthemgaily。Therewerebandsofmusictoo，andbannersoutofnumber:anditwasafresh，holiday-lookingconcoursealtogether。

IwasparticularlypleasedtoseetheIrishmen，whoformedadistinctsocietyamongthemselves，andmusteredverystrongwiththeirgreenscarves；carryingtheirnationalHarpandtheirPortraitofFatherMathew，highabovethepeople"sheads。Theylookedasjollyandgood-humouredasever；and，working(here)thehardestfortheirlivinganddoinganykindofsturdylabourthatcameintheirway，werethemostindependentfellowsthere，I

thought。

Thebannerswereverywellpainted，andflaunteddownthestreetfamously。Therewasthesmitingoftherock，andthegushingforthofthewaters；andtherewasatemperatemanwith"considerableofahatchet"(asthestandard-bearerwouldprobablyhavesaid)，aimingadeadlyblowataserpentwhichwasapparentlyabouttospringuponhimfromthetopofabarrelofspirits。Butthechieffeatureofthispartoftheshowwasahugeallegoricaldevice，borneamongtheship-carpenters，ononesidewhereofthesteamboatAlcoholwasrepresentedburstingherboilerandexplodingwithagreatcrash，whileupontheother，thegoodshipTemperancesailedawaywithafairwind，totheheart"scontentofthecaptain，crew，andpassengers。

Aftergoingroundthetown，theprocessionrepairedtoacertainappointedplace，where，astheprintedprogrammesetforth，itwouldbereceivedbythechildrenofthedifferentfreeschools，"singingTemperanceSongs。"Iwaspreventedfromgettingthere，intimetoheartheseLittleWarblers，ortoreportuponthisnovelkindofvocalentertainment:novel，atleast，tome:butIfoundinalargeopenspace，eachsocietygatheredrounditsownbanners，andlisteninginsilentattentiontoitsownorator。Thespeeches，judgingfromthelittleIcouldhearofthem，werecertainlyadaptedtotheoccasion，ashavingthatdegreeofrelationshiptocoldwaterwhichwetblanketsmayclaim:butthemainthingwastheconductandappearanceoftheaudiencethroughouttheday；andthatwasadmirableandfullofpromise。

Cincinnatiishonourablyfamousforitsfreeschools，ofwhichithassomanythatnoperson"schildamongitspopulationcan，bypossibility，wantthemeansofeducation，whichareextended，uponanaverage，tofourthousandpupils，annually。Iwasonlypresentinoneoftheseestablishmentsduringthehoursofinstruction。Intheboys"department，whichwasfulloflittleurchins(varyingintheirages，Ishouldsay，fromsixyearsoldtotenortwelve)，themasterofferedtoinstituteanextemporaryexaminationofthepupilsinalgebra；aproposal，which，asIwasbynomeansconfidentofmyabilitytodetectmistakesinthatscience，I

declinedwithsomealarm。Inthegirls"school，readingwasproposed；andasIfelttolerablyequaltothatart，Iexpressedmywillingnesstohearaclass。Booksweredistributedaccordingly，andsomehalf-dozengirlsrelievedeachotherinreadingparagraphsfromEnglishHistory。Butitseemedtobeadrycompilation，infinitelyabovetheirpowers；andwhentheyhadblunderedthroughthreeorfourdrearypassagesconcerningtheTreatyofAmiens，andotherthrillingtopicsofthesamenature(obviouslywithoutcomprehendingtenwords)，Iexpressedmyselfquitesatisfied。ItisverypossiblethattheyonlymountedtothisexaltedstaveintheLadderofLearningfortheastonishmentofavisitor；andthatatothertimestheykeepuponitslowerrounds；butIshouldhavebeenmuchbetterpleasedandsatisfiedifIhadheardthemexercisedinsimplerlessons，whichtheyunderstood。

AsineveryotherplaceIvisited，thejudgeshereweregentlemenofhighcharacterandattainments。Iwasinoneofthecourtsforafewminutes，andfounditlikethosetowhichIhavealreadyreferred。Anuisancecausewastrying；therewerenotmanyspectators；andthewitnesses，counsel，andjury，formedasortoffamilycircle，sufficientlyjocoseandsnug。

ThesocietywithwhichImingled，wasintelligent，courteous，andagreeable。TheinhabitantsofCincinnatiareproudoftheircityasoneofthemostinterestinginAmerica:andwithgoodreason:

forbeautifulandthrivingasitisnow，andcontaining，asitdoes，apopulationoffiftythousandsouls，buttwo-and-fiftyyearshavepassedawaysincethegroundonwhichitstands(boughtatthattimeforafewdollars)wasawildwood，anditscitizenswerebutahandfulofdwellersinscatteredloghutsupontheriver"sshore。

CHAPTERXII-FROMCINCINNATITOLOUISVILLEINANOTHERWESTERN

STEAMBOAT；ANDFROMLOUISVILLETOST。LOUISINANOTHER。ST。LOUIS

LEAVINGCincinnatiateleveno"clockintheforenoon，weembarkedforLouisvilleinthePikesteamboat，which，carryingthemails，wasapacketofamuchbetterclassthanthatinwhichwehadcomefromPittsburg。Asthispassagedoesnotoccupymorethantwelveorthirteenhours，wearrangedtogoashorethatnight:notcovetingthedistinctionofsleepinginastate-room，whenitwaspossibletosleepanywhereelse。

Therechancedtobeonboardthisboat，inadditiontotheusualdrearycrowdofpassengers，onePitchlynn，achiefoftheChoctawtribeofIndians，whoSENTINHISCARDtome，andwithwhomIhadthepleasureofalongconversation。

HespokeEnglishperfectlywell，thoughhehadnotbeguntolearnthelanguage，hetoldme，untilhewasayoungmangrown。Hehadreadmanybooks；andScott"spoetryappearedtohaveleftastrongimpressiononhismind:especiallytheopeningofTheLadyoftheLake，andthegreatbattlesceneinMarmion，inwhich，nodoubtfromthecongenialityofthesubjectstohisownpursuitsandtastes，hehadgreatinterestanddelight。Heappearedtounderstandcorrectlyallhehadread；andwhateverfictionhadenlistedhissympathyinitsbelief，haddonesokeenlyandearnestly。Imightalmostsayfiercely。Hewasdressedinourordinaryeverydaycostume，whichhungabouthisfinefigureloosely，andwithindifferentgrace。OnmytellinghimthatI

regrettednottoseehiminhisownattire，hethrewuphisrightarm，foramoment，asthoughhewerebrandishingsomeheavyweapon，andanswered，asheletitfallagain，thathisracewerelosingmanythingsbesidestheirdress，andwouldsoonbeseenupontheearthnomore:butheworeitathome，headdedproudly。

Hetoldmethathehadbeenawayfromhishome，westoftheMississippi，seventeenmonths:andwasnowreturning。HehadbeenchieflyatWashingtononsomenegotiationspendingbetweenhisTribeandtheGovernment:whichwerenotsettledyet(hesaidinamelancholyway)，andhefearedneverwouldbe:forwhatcouldafewpoorIndiansdo，againstsuchwell-skilledmenofbusinessasthewhites？HehadnoloveforWashington；tiredoftownsandcitiesverysoon；andlongedfortheForestandthePrairie。

IaskedhimwhathethoughtofCongress？Heanswered，withasmile，thatitwanteddignity，inanIndian"seyes。

Hewouldverymuchlike，hesaid，toseeEnglandbeforehedied；

andspokewithmuchinterestaboutthegreatthingstobeseenthere。WhenItoldhimofthatchamberintheBritishMuseumwhereinarepreservedhouseholdmemorialsofaracethatceasedtobe，thousandsofyearsago，hewasveryattentive，anditwasnothardtoseethathehadareferenceinhismindtothegradualfadingawayofhisownpeople。

ThisledustospeakofMr。Catlin"sgallery，whichhepraisedhighly:observingthathisownportraitwasamongthecollection，andthatallthelikenesseswere"elegant。"Mr。Cooper，hesaid，hadpaintedtheRedManwell；andsowouldI，heknew，ifIwouldgohomewithhimandhuntbuffaloes，whichhewasquiteanxiousI

shoulddo。WhenItoldhimthatsupposingIwent，Ishouldnotbeverylikelytodamagethebuffaloesmuch，hetookitasagreatjokeandlaughedheartily。

Hewasaremarkablyhandsomeman；someyearspastforty，Ishouldjudge；withlongblackhair，anaquilinenose，broadcheek-bones，asunburntcomplexion，andaverybright，keen，dark，andpiercingeye。TherewerebuttwentythousandoftheChoctawsleft，hesaid，andtheirnumberwasdecreasingeveryday。Afewofhisbrotherchiefshadbeenobligedtobecomecivilised，andtomakethemselvesacquaintedwithwhatthewhitesknew，foritwastheironlychanceofexistence。Buttheywerenotmany；andtherestwereastheyalwayshadbeen。Hedweltonthis:andsaidseveraltimesthatunlesstheytriedtoassimilatethemselvestotheirconquerors，theymustbesweptawaybeforethestridesofcivilisedsociety。

Whenweshookhandsatparting，ItoldhimhemustcometoEngland，ashelongedtoseethelandsomuch:thatIshouldhopetoseehimthere，oneday:andthatIcouldpromisehimhewouldbewellreceivedandkindlytreated。Hewasevidentlypleasedbythisassurance，thoughherejoinedwithagood-humouredsmileandanarchshakeofhishead，thattheEnglishusedtobeveryfondoftheRedMenwhentheywantedtheirhelp，buthadnotcaredmuchforthem，since。

Hetookhisleave；asstatelyandcompleteagentlemanofNature"smaking，aseverIbeheld；andmovedamongthepeopleintheboat，anotherkindofbeing。Hesentmealithographedportraitofhimselfsoonafterwards；verylike，thoughscarcelyhandsomeenough；whichIhavecarefullypreservedinmemoryofourbriefacquaintance。

Therewasnothingveryinterestinginthesceneryofthisday"sjourney，whichbroughtusatmidnighttoLouisville。WesleptattheGaltHouse；asplendidhotel；andwereashandsomelylodgedasthoughwehadbeeninParis，ratherthanhundredsofmilesbeyondtheAlleghanies。

Thecitypresentingnoobjectsofsufficientinteresttodetainusonourway，weresolvedtoproceednextdaybyanothersteamboat，theFulton，andtojoinit，aboutnoon，atasuburbcalledPortland，whereitwouldbedelayedsometimeinpassingthroughacanal。

Theinterval，afterbreakfast，wedevotedtoridingthroughthetown，whichisregularandcheerful:thestreetsbeinglaidoutatrightangles，andplantedwithyoungtrees。Thebuildingsaresmokyandblackened，fromtheuseofbituminouscoal，butanEnglishmaniswellusedtothatappearance，andindisposedtoquarrelwithit。Theredidnotappeartobemuchbusinessstirring；andsomeunfinishedbuildingsandimprovementsseemedtointimatethatthecityhadbeenoverbuiltintheardourof"going-

a-head，"andwassufferingunderthere-actionconsequentuponsuchfeverishforcingofitspowers。

OnourwaytoPortland，wepasseda"Magistrate"soffice，"whichamusedme，aslookingfarmorelikeadameschoolthananypoliceestablishment:forthisawfulInstitutionwasnothingbutalittlelazy，good-for-nothingfrontparlour，opentothestreet；whereintwoorthreefigures(Ipresumethemagistrateandhismyrmidons)

werebaskinginthesunshine，theveryeffigiesoflanguorandrepose。Itwasaperfectpictureofjusticeretiredfrombusinessforwantofcustomers；herswordandscalessoldoff；nappingcomfortablywithherlegsuponthetable。

Here，aselsewhereintheseparts，theroadwasperfectlyalivewithpigsofallages；lyingaboutineverydirection，fastasleep。；orgruntingalonginquestofhiddendainties。Ihadalwaysasneakingkindnessfortheseoddanimals，andfoundaconstantsourceofamusement，whenallothersfailed，inwatchingtheirproceedings。Aswewereridingalongthismorning，I

observedalittleincidentbetweentwoyouthfulpigs，whichwassoveryhumanastobeinexpressiblycomicalandgrotesqueatthetime，thoughIdaresay，intelling，itistameenough。

Oneyounggentleman(averydelicateporkerwithseveralstrawsstickingabouthisnose，betokeningrecentinvestigationsinadung-hill)waswalkingdeliberatelyon，profoundlythinking，whensuddenlyhisbrother，whowaslyinginamiryholeunseenbyhim，roseupimmediatelybeforehisstartledeyes，ghostlywithdampmud。Neverwaspig"swholemassofbloodsoturned。Hestartedbackatleastthreefeet，gazedforamoment，andthenshotoffashardashecouldgo:hisexcessivelylittletailvibratingwithspeedandterrorlikeadistractedpendulum。Butbeforehehadgoneveryfar，hebegantoreasonwithhimselfastothenatureofthisfrightfulappearance；andashereasoned，herelaxedhisspeedbygradualdegrees；untilatlasthestopped，andfacedabout。

Therewashisbrother，withthemuduponhimglazinginthesun，yetstaringoutoftheverysamehole，perfectlyamazedathisproceedings!Hewasnosoonerassuredofthis；andheassuredhimselfsocarefullythatonemayalmostsayheshadedhiseyeswithhishandtoseethebetter；thanhecamebackataroundtrot，pounceduponhim，andsummarilytookoffapieceofhistail；asacautiontohimtobecarefulwhathewasaboutforthefuture，andnevertoplaytrickswithhisfamilyanymore。

Wefoundthesteamboatinthecanal，waitingfortheslowprocessofgettingthroughthelock，andwentonboard，whereweshortlyafterwardshadanewkindofvisitorinthepersonofacertainKentuckyGiantwhosenameisPorter，andwhoisofthemoderateheightofsevenfeeteightinches，inhisstockings。

Thereneverwasaraceofpeoplewhosocompletelygavethelietohistoryasthesegiants，orwhomallthechroniclershavesocruellylibelled。Insteadofroaringandravagingabouttheworld，constantlycateringfortheircanniballarders，andperpetuallygoingtomarketinanunlawfulmanner，theyarethemeekestpeopleinanyman"sacquaintance:ratherincliningtomilkandvegetablediet，andbearinganythingforaquietlife。Sodecidedlyareamiabilityandmildnesstheircharacteristics，thatIconfessI

lookuponthatyouthwhodistinguishedhimselfbytheslaughteroftheseinoffensivepersons，asafalse-heartedbrigand，who，pretendingtophilanthropicmotives，wassecretlyinfluencedonlybythewealthstoredupwithintheircastles，andthehopeofplunder。AndIleanthemoretothisopinionfromfindingthateventhehistorianofthoseexploits，withallhispartialityforhishero，isfaintoadmitthattheslaughteredmonstersinquestionwereofaveryinnocentandsimpleturn；extremelyguilelessandreadyofbelief；lendingacredulouseartothemostimprobabletales；sufferingthemselvestobeeasilyentrappedintopits；andeven(asinthecaseoftheWelshGiant)withanexcessofthehospitablepolitenessofalandlord，rippingthemselvesopen，ratherthanhintatthepossibilityoftheirguestsbeingversedinthevagabondartsofsleight-of-handandhocus-pocus。

TheKentuckyGiantwasbutanotherillustrationofthetruthofthisposition。Hehadaweaknessintheregionoftheknees，andatrustfulnessinhislongface，whichappealedeventofive-feetnineforencouragementandsupport。Hewasonlytwenty-fiveyearsold，hesaid，andhadgrownrecently，forithadbeenfoundnecessarytomakeanadditiontothelegsofhisinexpressibles。

Atfifteenhewasashortboy，andinthosedayshisEnglishfatherandhisIrishmotherhadrathersnubbedhim，asbeingtoosmallofstaturetosustainthecreditofthefamily。Headdedthathishealthhadnotbeengood，thoughitwasbetternow；butshortpeoplearenotwantingwhowhisperthathedrinkstoohard。

Iunderstandhedrivesahackney-coach，thoughhowhedoesit，unlesshestandsonthefootboardbehind，andliesalongtheroofuponhischest，withhischininthebox，itwouldbedifficulttocomprehend。Hebroughthisgunwithhim，asacuriosity。

Christened"TheLittleRifle，"anddisplayedoutsideashop-window，itwouldmakethefortuneofanyretailbusinessinHolborn。Whenhehadshownhimselfandtalkedalittlewhile，hewithdrewwithhispocket-instrument，andwentbobbingdownthecabin，amongmenofsixfeethighandupwards，likealight-housewalkingamonglamp-posts。

Withinafewminutesafterwards，wewereoutofthecanal，andintheOhioriveragain。

ThearrangementsoftheboatwerelikethoseoftheMessenger，andthepassengerswereofthesameorderofpeople。Wefedatthesametimes，onthesamekindofviands，inthesamedullmanner，andwiththesameobservances。Thecompanyappearedtobeoppressedbythesametremendousconcealments，andhadaslittlecapacityofenjoymentorlight-heartedness。Ineverinmylifedidseesuchlistless，heavydulnessasbroodedoverthesemeals:theveryrecollectionofitweighsmedown，andmakesme，forthemoment，wretched。Readingandwritingonmyknee，inourlittlecabin，Ireallydreadedthecomingofthehourthatsummonedustotable；andwasasgladtoescapefromitagain，asifithadbeenapenanceorapunishment。Healthycheerfulnessandgoodspiritsformingapartofthebanquet，IcouldsoakmycrustsinthefountainwithLeSage"sstrollingplayer，andrevelintheirgladenjoyment:butsittingdownwithsomanyfellow-animalstowardoffthirstandhungerasabusiness；toempty，eachcreature，hisYahoo"stroughasquicklyashecan，andthenslinksullenlyaway；