第9章

Tothosewhoarehappilyunaccustomedtothem，thecountenancesinthestreetsandlabouring-places，too，areshocking。Allmenwhoknowthattherearelawsagainstinstructingslaves，ofwhichthepainsandpenaltiesgreatlyexceedintheiramountthefinesimposedonthosewhomaimandtorturethem，mustbepreparedtofindtheirfacesverylowinthescaleofintellectualexpression。

Butthedarkness-notofskin，butmind-whichmeetsthestranger"seyeateveryturn；thebrutalizingandblottingoutofallfairercharacterstracedbyNature"shand；immeasurablyoutdohisworstbelief。Thattravelledcreationofthegreatsatirist"sbrain，whofreshfromlivingamonghorses，peeredfromahighcasementdownuponhisownkindwithtremblinghorror，wasscarcelymorerepelledanddauntedbythesight，thanthosewholookuponsomeofthesefacesforthefirsttimemustsurelybe。

Ileftthelastofthembehindmeinthepersonofawretcheddrudge，who，afterrunningtoandfroalldaytillmidnight，andmopinginhisstealthywinksofsleepuponthestairsbetweenwhiles，waswashingthedarkpassagesatfouro"clockinthemorning；andwentuponmywaywithagratefulheartthatIwasnotdoomedtolivewhereslaverywas，andhadneverhadmysensesbluntedtoitswrongsandhorrorsinaslave-rockedcradle。

IthadbeenmyintentiontoproceedbyJamesRiverandChesapeakeBaytoBaltimore；butoneofthesteamboatsbeingabsentfromherstationthroughsomeaccident，andthemeansofconveyancebeingconsequentlyrendereduncertain，wereturnedtoWashingtonbythewaywehadcome(thereweretwoconstablesonboardthesteamboat，inpursuitofrunawayslaves)，andhaltingthereagainforonenight，wentontoBaltimorenextafternoon。

ThemostcomfortableofallthehotelsofwhichIhadanyexperienceintheUnitedStates，andtheywerenotafew，isBarnum"s，inthatcity:wheretheEnglishtravellerwillfindcurtainstohisbed，forthefirstandprobablythelasttimeinAmerica(thisisadisinterestedremark，forIneverusethem)；andwherehewillbelikelytohaveenoughwaterforwashinghimself，whichisnotatallacommoncase。

ThiscapitalofthestateofMarylandisabustling，busytown，withagreatdealoftrafficofvariouskinds，andinparticularofwatercommerce。Thatportionofthetownwhichitmostfavoursisnoneofthecleanest，itistrue；buttheupperpartisofaverydifferentcharacter，andhasmanyagreeablestreetsandpublicbuildings。TheWashingtonMonument，whichisahandsomepillarwithastatueonitssummit；theMedicalCollege；andtheBattleMonumentinmemoryofanengagementwiththeBritishatNorthPoint；arethemostconspicuousamongthem。

Thereisaverygoodprisoninthiscity，andtheStatePenitentiaryisalsoamongitsinstitutions。Inthislatterestablishmentthereweretwocuriouscases。

Onewasthatofayoungman，whohadbeentriedforthemurderofhisfather。Theevidencewasentirelycircumstantial，andwasveryconflictinganddoubtful；norwasitpossibletoassignanymotivewhichcouldhavetemptedhimtothecommissionofsotremendousacrime。Hehadbeentriedtwice；andonthesecondoccasionthejuryfeltsomuchhesitationinconvictinghim，thattheyfoundaverdictofmanslaughter，ormurderintheseconddegree；whichitcouldnotpossiblybe，astherehad，beyondalldoubt，beennoquarrelorprovocation，andifhewereguiltyatall，hewasunquestionablyguiltyofmurderinitsbroadestandworstsignification。

Theremarkablefeatureinthecasewas，thatiftheunfortunatedeceasedwerenotreallymurderedbythisownsonofhis，hemusthavebeenmurderedbyhisownbrother。Theevidencelayinamostremarkablemanner，betweenthosetwo。Onallthesuspiciouspoints，thedeadman"sbrotherwasthewitness:alltheexplanationsfortheprisoner(someofthemextremelyplausible)

went，byconstructionandinference，toinculcatehimasplottingtofixtheguiltuponhisnephew。Itmusthavebeenoneofthem:

andthejuryhadtodecidebetweentwosetsofsuspicions，almostequallyunnatural，unaccountable，andstrange。

Theothercase，wasthatofamanwhooncewenttoacertaindistiller"sandstoleacoppermeasurecontainingaquantityofliquor。Hewaspursuedandtakenwiththepropertyinhispossession，andwassentencedtotwoyears"imprisonment。Oncomingoutofthejail，attheexpirationofthatterm，hewentbacktothesamedistiller"s，andstolethesamecoppermeasurecontainingthesamequantityofliquor。Therewasnottheslightestreasontosupposethatthemanwishedtoreturntoprison:indeedeverything，butthecommissionoftheoffence，madedirectlyagainstthatassumption。Thereareonlytwowaysofaccountingforthisextraordinaryproceeding。Oneis，thatafterundergoingsomuchforthiscoppermeasureheconceivedhehadestablishedasortofclaimandrighttoit。Theotherthat，bydintoflongthinkingabout，ithadbecomeamonomaniawithhim，andhadacquiredafascinationwhichhefounditimpossibletoresist；swellingfromanEarthlyCopperGallonintoanEtherealGoldenVat。

AfterremaininghereacoupleofdaysIboundmyselftoarigidadherencetotheplanIhadlaiddownsorecently，andresolvedtosetforwardonourwesternjourneywithoutanymoredelay。

Accordingly，havingreducedtheluggagewithinthesmallestpossiblecompass(bysendingbacktoNewYork，tobeafterwardsforwardedtousinCanada，somuchofitaswasnotabsolutelywanted)；andhavingprocuredthenecessarycredentialstobanking-

housesontheway；andhavingmoreoverlookedfortwoeveningsatthesettingsun，withaswell-definedanideaofthecountrybeforeusasifwehadbeengoingtotravelintotheverycentreofthatplanet；weleftBaltimorebyanotherrailwayathalf-pasteightinthemorning，andreachedthetownofYork，somesixtymilesoff，bytheearlydinner-timeoftheHotelwhichwasthestarting-placeofthefour-horsecoach，whereinweweretoproceedtoHarrisburg。

Thisconveyance，theboxofwhichIwasfortunateenoughtosecure，hadcomedowntomeetusattherailroadstation，andwasasmuddyandcumbersomeasusual。Asmorepassengerswerewaitingforusattheinn-door，thecoachmanobservedunderhisbreath，intheusualself-communicativevoice，lookingthewhileathismouldyharnessasifitweretothathewasaddressinghimself，"IexpectweshallwantTHEBIGcoach。"

Icouldnothelpwonderingwithinmyselfwhatthesizeofthisbigcoachmightbe，andhowmanypersonsitmightbedesignedtohold；

forthevehiclewhichwastoosmallforourpurposewassomethinglargerthantwoEnglishheavynightcoaches，andmighthavebeenthetwin-brotherofaFrenchDiligence。Myspeculationswerespeedilysetatrest，however，forassoonaswehaddined，therecamerumblingupthestreet，shakingitssideslikeacorpulentgiant，akindofbargeonwheels。Aftermuchblunderingandbacking，itstoppedatthedoor:rollingheavilyfromsidetosidewhenitsothermotionhadceased，asifithadtakencoldinitsdampstable，andbetweenthat，andthehavingbeenrequiredinitsdropsicaloldagetomoveatanyfasterpacethanawalk，weredistressedbyshortnessofwind。

"Ifhereain"ttheHarrisburgmailatlast，anddreadfulbrightandsmarttolookattoo，"criedanelderlygentlemaninsomeexcitement，"darnmymother!"

Idon"tknowwhatthesensationofbeingdarnedmaybe，orwhetheraman"smotherhasakeenerrelishordisrelishoftheprocessthananybodyelse；butiftheenduranceofthismysteriousceremonybytheoldladyinquestionhaddependedontheaccuracyofherson"svisioninrespecttotheabstractbrightnessandsmartnessoftheHarrisburgmail，shewouldcertainlyhaveundergoneitsinfliction。

However，theybookedtwelvepeopleinside；andtheluggage(includingsuchtriflesasalargerocking-chair，andagood-sizeddining-table)beingatlengthmadefastupontheroof，westartedoffingreatstate。

Atthedoorofanotherhotel，therewasanotherpassengertobetakenup。

"Anyroom，sir？"criesthenewpassengertothecoachman。

"Well，there"sroomenough，"repliesthecoachman，withoutgettingdown，orevenlookingathim。

"Therean"tnoroomatall，sir，"bawlsagentlemaninside。Whichanothergentleman(alsoinside)confirms，bypredictingthattheattempttointroduceanymorepassengers"won"tfitnohow。"

Thenewpassenger，withoutanyexpressionofanxiety，looksintothecoach，andthenlooksupatthecoachman:"Now，howdoyoumeantofixit？"sayshe，afterapause:"forIMUSTgo。"

Thecoachmanemployshimselfintwistingthelashofhiswhipintoaknot，andtakesnomorenoticeofthequestion:clearlysignifyingthatitisanybody"sbusinessbuthis，andthatthepassengerswoulddowelltofixit，amongthemselves。Inthisstateofthings，mattersseemtobeapproximatingtoafixofanotherkind，whenanotherinsidepassengerinacorner，whoisnearlysuffocated，criesfaintly，"I"llgetout。"

Thisisnomatterofrelieforself-congratulationtothedriver，forhisimmovablephilosophyisperfectlyundisturbedbyanythingthathappensinthecoach。Ofallthingsintheworld，thecoachwouldseemtobetheverylastuponhismind。Theexchangeismade，however，andthenthepassengerwhohasgivenuphisseatmakesathirduponthebox，seatinghimselfinwhathecallsthemiddle；thatis，withhalfhispersononmylegs，andtheotherhalfonthedriver"s。

"Goa-head，cap"en，"criesthecolonel，whodirects。

"Go-lang!"criesthecap"entohiscompany，thehorses，andawaywego。

Wetookupataruralbar-room，afterwehadgoneafewmiles，anintoxicatedgentlemanwhoclimbedupontheroofamongtheluggage，andsubsequentlyslippingoffwithouthurtinghimself，wasseeninthedistantperspectivereelingbacktothegrog-shopwherewehadfoundhim。Wealsopartedwithmoreofourfreightatdifferenttimes，sothatwhenwecametochangehorses，Iwasagainaloneoutside。

Thecoachmenalwayschangewiththehorses，andareusuallyasdirtyasthecoach。ThefirstwasdressedlikeaveryshabbyEnglishbaker；thesecondlikeaRussianpeasant:forheworealoosepurplecamletrobe，withafurcollar，tiedroundhiswaistwithaparti-colouredworstedsash；greytrousers；lightbluegloves:andacapofbearskin。Ithadbythistimecomeontorainveryheavily，andtherewasacolddampmistbesides，whichpenetratedtotheskin。Iwasgladtotakeadvantageofastoppageandgetdowntostretchmylegs，shakethewateroffmygreat-coat，andswallowtheusualanti-temperancerecipeforkeepingoutthecold。

WhenImountedtomyseatagain，Iobservedanewparcellyingonthecoachroof，whichItooktobearatherlargefiddleinabrownbag。Inthecourseofafewmiles，however，Idiscoveredthatithadaglazedcapatoneendandapairofmuddyshoesattheotherandfurtherobservationdemonstratedittobeasmallboyinasnuff-colouredcoat，withhisarmsquitepinionedtohissides，bydeepforcingintohispockets。Hewas，Ipresume，arelativeorfriendofthecoachman"s，ashelaya-topoftheluggagewithhisfacetowardstherain；andexceptwhenachangeofpositionbroughthisshoesincontactwithmyhat，heappearedtobeasleep。Atlast，onsomeoccasionofourstopping，thisthingslowlyupreareditselftotheheightofthreefeetsix，andfixingitseyesonme，observedinpipingaccents，withacomplaisantyawn，halfquenchedinanobligingairoffriendlypatronage，"Wellnow，stranger，I

guessyoufindthisa"mostlikeanEnglisharternoon，hey？"

Thescenery，whichhadbeentameenoughatfirst，was，forthelasttenortwelvemiles，beautiful。OurroadwoundthroughthepleasantvalleyoftheSusquehanna；theriver，dottedwithinnumerablegreenislands，layuponourright；andontheleft，asteepascent，craggywithbrokenrock，anddarkwithpinetrees。

Themist，wreathingitselfintoahundredfantasticshapes，movedsolemnlyuponthewater；andthegloomofeveninggavetoallanairofmysteryandsilencewhichgreatlyenhanceditsnaturalinterest。

Wecrossedthisriverbyawoodenbridge，roofedandcoveredinonallsides，andnearlyamileinlength。Itwasprofoundlydark；

perplexed，withgreatbeams，crossingandrecrossingitateverypossibleangle；andthroughthebroadchinksandcrevicesinthefloor，therapidrivergleamed，fardownbelow，likealegionofeyes。Wehadnolamps；andasthehorsesstumbledandflounderedthroughthisplace，towardsthedistantspeckofdyinglight，itseemedinterminable。Ireallycouldnotatfirstpersuademyselfaswerumbledheavilyon，fillingthebridgewithhollownoises，andIhelddownmyheadtosaveitfromtheraftersabove，butthatIwasinapainfuldream；forIhaveoftendreamedoftoilingthroughsuchplaces，andasoftenargued，evenatthetime，"thiscannotbereality。"

Atlength，however，weemergeduponthestreetsofHarrisburg，whosefeeblelights，reflecteddismallyfromthewetground，didnotshineoutuponaverycheerfulcity。Weweresoonestablishedinasnughotel，whichthoughsmallerandfarlesssplendidthanmanyweputupat，itraisedabovethemallinmyremembrance，byhavingforitslandlordthemostobliging，considerate，andgentlemanlypersonIeverhadtodealwith。

Aswewerenottoproceeduponourjourneyuntiltheafternoon，I

walkedout，afterbreakfastthenextmorning，tolookaboutme；andwasdulyshownamodelprisononthesolitarysystem，justerected，andasyetwithoutaninmate；thetrunkofanoldtreetowhichHarris，thefirstsettlerhere(afterwardsburiedunderit)，wastiedbyhostileIndians，withhisfuneralpileabouthim，whenhewassavedbythetimelyappearanceofafriendlypartyontheoppositeshoreoftheriver；thelocallegislature(fortherewasanotherofthosebodieshereagain，infulldebate)；andtheothercuriositiesofthetown。

IwasverymuchinterestedinlookingoveranumberoftreatiesmadefromtimetotimewiththepoorIndians，signedbythedifferentchiefsattheperiodoftheirratification，andpreservedintheofficeoftheSecretarytotheCommonwealth。Thesesignatures，tracedofcoursebytheirownhands，areroughdrawingsofthecreaturesorweaponstheywerecalledafter。Thus，theGreatTurtlemakesacrookedpen-and-inkoutlineofagreatturtle；

theBuffalosketchesabuffalo；theWarHatchetsetsaroughimageofthatweaponforhismark。SowiththeArrow，theFish，theScalp，theBigCanoe，andallofthem。

Icouldnotbutthink-asIlookedatthesefeebleandtremulousproductionsofhandswhichcoulddrawthelongestarrowtotheheadinastoutelk-hornbow，orsplitabeadorfeatherwitharifle-

ball-ofCrabbe"smusingsovertheParishRegister，andtheirregularscratchesmadewithapen，bymenwhowouldploughalengthyfurrowstraightfromendtoend。NorcouldIhelpbestowingmanysorrowfulthoughtsuponthesimplewarriorswhosehandsandheartsweresetthere，inalltruthandhonesty；andwhoonlylearnedincourseoftimefromwhitemenhowtobreaktheirfaith，andquibbleoutofformsandbonds。Iwonder，too，howmanytimesthecredulousBigTurtle，ortrustingLittleHatchet，hadputhismarktotreatieswhichwerefalselyreadtohim；andhadsignedaway，heknewnotwhat，untilitwentandcasthimlooseuponthenewpossessorsoftheland，asavageindeed。

Ourhostannounced，beforeourearlydinner，thatsomemembersofthelegislativebodyproposedtodousthehonourofcalling。Hehadkindlyyieldeduptoushiswife"sownlittleparlour，andwhenIbeggedthathewouldshowthemin，Isawhimlookwithpainfulapprehensionatitsprettycarpet；though，beingotherwiseoccupiedatthetime，thecauseofhisuneasinessdidnotoccurtome。

Itcertainlywouldhavebeenmorepleasanttoallpartiesconcerned，andwouldnot，Ithink，havecompromisedtheirindependenceinanymaterialdegree，ifsomeofthesegentlemenhadnotonlyyieldedtotheprejudiceinfavourofspittoons，buthadabandonedthemselves，forthemoment，eventotheconventionalabsurdityofpocket-handkerchiefs。

Itstillcontinuedtorainheavily，andwhenwewentdowntotheCanalBoat(forthatwasthemodeofconveyancebywhichweweretoproceed)afterdinner，theweatherwasasunpromisingandobstinatelywetasonewoulddesiretosee。Norwasthesightofthiscanalboat，inwhichweweretospendthreeorfourdays，byanymeansacheerfulone；asitinvolvedsomeuneasyspeculationsconcerningthedisposalofthepassengersatnight，andopenedawidefieldofinquirytouchingtheotherdomesticarrangementsoftheestablishment，whichwassufficientlydisconcerting。

However，thereitwas-abargewithalittlehouseinit，viewedfromtheoutside；andacaravanatafair，viewedfromwithin:thegentlemenbeingaccommodated，asthespectatorsusuallyare，inoneofthoselocomotivemuseumsofpennywonders；andtheladiesbeingpartitionedoffbyaredcurtain，afterthemannerofthedwarfsandgiantsinthesameestablishments，whoseprivatelivesarepassedinrathercloseexclusiveness。

Wesathere，lookingsilentlyattherowoflittletables，whichextendeddownbothsidesofthecabin，andlisteningtotherainasitdrippedandpatteredontheboat，andplashedwithadismalmerrimentinthewater，untilthearrivaloftherailwaytrain，forwhosefinalcontributiontoourstockofpassengers，ourdeparturewasalonedeferred。Itbroughtagreatmanyboxes，whichwerebumpedandtossedupontheroof，almostaspainfullyasiftheyhadbeendepositedonone"sownhead，withouttheinterventionofaporter"sknot；andseveraldampgentlemen，whoseclothes，ontheirdrawingroundthestove，begantosteamagain。Nodoubtitwouldhavebeenathoughtmorecomfortableifthedrivingrain，whichnowpoureddownmoresoakinglythanever，hadadmittedofawindowbeingopened，orifournumberhadbeensomethinglessthanthirty；

buttherewasscarcelytimetothinkasmuch，whenatrainofthreehorseswasattachedtothetow-rope，theboyupontheleadersmackedhiswhip，theruddercreakedandgroanedcomplainingly，andwehadbegunourjourney。

CHAPTERX-SOMEFURTHERACCOUNTOFTHECANALBOAT，ITSDOMESTIC

ECONOMY，ANDITSPASSENGERS。JOURNEYTOPITTSBURGACROSSTHE

ALLEGHANYMOUNTAINS。PITTSBURG

ASitcontinuedtorainmostperseveringly，weallremainedbelow:

thedampgentlemenroundthestove，graduallybecomingmildewedbytheactionofthefire；andthedrygentlemenlyingatfulllengthupontheseats，orslumberinguneasilywiththeirfacesonthetables，orwalkingupanddownthecabin，whichitwasbarelypossibleforamanofthemiddleheighttodo，withoutmakingbaldplacesonhisheadbyscrapingitagainsttheroof。Ataboutsixo"clock，allthesmalltableswereputtogethertoformonelongtable，andeverybodysatdowntotea，coffee，bread，butter，salmon，shad，liver，steaks，potatoes，pickles，ham，chops，black-

puddings，andsausages。

"Willyoutry，"saidmyoppositeneighbour，handingmeadishofpotatoes，brokenupinmilkandbutter，"willyoutrysomeofthesefixings？"

Therearefewwordswhichperformsuchvariousdutiesasthisword"fix。"ItistheCalebQuotemoftheAmericanvocabulary。Youcalluponagentlemaninacountrytown，andhishelpinformsyouthatheis"fixinghimself"justnow，butwillbedowndirectly:

bywhichyouaretounderstandthatheisdressing。Youinquire，onboardasteamboat，ofafellow-passenger，whetherbreakfastwillbereadysoon，andhetellsyouheshouldthinkso，forwhenhewaslastbelow，theywere"fixingthetables:"inotherwords，layingthecloth。Youbegaportertocollectyourluggage，andheentreatsyounottobeuneasy，forhe"ll"fixitpresently:"andifyoucomplainofindisposition，youareadvisedtohaverecoursetoDoctorSo-and-so，whowill"fixyou"innotime。

Onenight，IorderedabottleofmulledwineatanhotelwhereI

wasstaying，andwaitedalongtimeforit；atlengthitwasputuponthetablewithanapologyfromthelandlordthathefeareditwasn"t"fixedproperly。"AndIrecollectonce，atastage-coachdinner，overhearingaverysterngentlemandemandofawaiterwhopresentedhimwithaplateofunderdoneroast-beef，"whetherhecalledTHAT，fixingGodA"mighty"svittles？"

Thereisnodoubtthatthemeal，atwhichtheinvitationwastenderedtomewhichhasoccasionedthisdigression，wasdisposedofsomewhatravenously；andthatthegentlementhrustthebroad-

bladedknivesandthetwo-prongedforksfurtherdowntheirthroatsthanIeversawthesameweaponsgobefore，exceptinthehandsofaskilfuljuggler:butnomansatdownuntiltheladieswereseated；oromittedanylittleactofpolitenesswhichcouldcontributetotheircomfort。NordidIeveronce，onanyoccasion，anywhere，duringmyramblesinAmerica，seeawomanexposedtotheslightestactofrudeness，incivility，oreveninattention。

Bythetimethemealwasover，therain，whichseemedtohavewornitselfoutbycomingdownsofast，wasnearlyovertoo；anditbecamefeasibletogoondeck:whichwasagreatrelief，notwithstandingitsbeingaverysmalldeck，andbeingrenderedstillsmallerbytheluggage，whichwasheapedtogetherinthemiddleunderatarpaulincovering；leaving，oneitherside，apathsonarrow，thatitbecameasciencetowalktoandfrowithouttumblingoverboardintothecanal。Itwassomewhatembarrassingatfirst，too，tohavetoducknimblyeveryfiveminuteswheneverthemanatthehelmcried"Bridge!"andsometimes，whenthecrywas"LowBridge，"toliedownnearlyflat。Butcustomfamiliarisesonetoanything，andthereweresomanybridgesthatittookaveryshorttimetogetusedtothis。

Asnightcameon，andwedrewinsightofthefirstrangeofhills，whicharetheoutpostsoftheAlleghanyMountains，thescenery，whichhadbeenuninterestinghitherto，becamemoreboldandstriking。Thewetgroundreekedandsmoked，aftertheheavyfallofrain，andthecroakingofthefrogs(whosenoiseinthesepartsisalmostincredible)soundedasthoughamillionoffairyteamswithbellsweretravellingthroughtheair，andkeepingpacewithus。Thenightwascloudyyet，butmoonlighttoo:andwhenwecrossedtheSusquehannariver-overwhichthereisanextraordinarywoodenbridgewithtwogalleries，oneabovetheother，sothateventhere，twoboatteamsmeeting，maypasswithoutconfusion-itwaswildandgrand。

Ihavementionedmyhavingbeeninsomeuncertaintyanddoubt，atfirst，relativetothesleepingarrangementsonboardthisboat。I

remainedinthesamevaguestateofminduntilteno"clockorthereabouts，whengoingbelow，Ifoundsuspendedoneithersideofthecabin，threelongtiersofhangingbookshelves，designedapparentlyforvolumesofthesmalloctavosize。Lookingwithgreaterattentionatthesecontrivances(wonderingtofindsuchliterarypreparationsinsuchaplace)，Idescriedoneachshelfasortofmicroscopicsheetandblanket；thenIbegandimlytocomprehendthatthepassengerswerethelibrary，andthattheyweretobearranged，edge-wise，ontheseshelves，tillmorning。

Iwasassistedtothisconclusionbyseeingsomeofthemgatheredroundthemasteroftheboat，atoneofthetables，drawinglotswithalltheanxietiesandpassionsofgamestersdepictedintheircountenances；whileothers，withsmallpiecesofcardboardintheirhands，weregropingamongtheshelvesinsearchofnumberscorrespondingwiththosetheyhaddrawn。Assoonasanygentlemanfoundhisnumber，hetookpossessionofitbyimmediatelyundressinghimselfandcrawlingintobed。Therapiditywithwhichanagitatedgamblersubsidedintoasnoringslumberer，wasoneofthemostsingulareffectsIhaveeverwitnessed。Astotheladies，theywerealreadyabed，behindtheredcurtain，whichwascarefullydrawnandpinnedupthecentre；thoughaseverycough，orsneeze，orwhisper，behindthiscurtain，wasperfectlyaudiblebeforeit，wehadstillalivelyconsciousnessoftheirsociety。

Thepolitenessofthepersoninauthorityhadsecuredtomeashelfinanooknearthisredcurtain，insomedegreeremovedfromthegreatbodyofsleepers:towhichplaceIretired，withmanyacknowledgmentstohimforhisattention。Ifoundit，onafter-

measurement，justthewidthofanordinarysheetofBathpostletter-paper；andIwasatfirstinsomeuncertaintyastothebestmeansofgettingintoit。Buttheshelfbeingabottomone，I

finallydeterminedonlyinguponthefloor，rollinggentlyin，stoppingimmediatelyItouchedthemattress，andremainingforthenightwiththatsideuppermost，whateveritmightbe。Luckily，I

cameuponmybackatexactlytherightmoment。Iwasmuchalarmedonlookingupward，tosee，bytheshapeofhishalf-yardofsacking(whichhisweighthadbentintoanexceedinglytightbag)，thattherewasaveryheavygentlemanaboveme，whomtheslendercordsseemedquiteincapableofholding；andIcouldnothelpreflectinguponthegriefofmywifeandfamilyintheeventofhiscomingdowninthenight。ButasIcouldnothavegotupagainwithoutaseverebodilystruggle，whichmighthavealarmedtheladies；andasIhadnowheretogoto，evenifIhad；Ishutmyeyesuponthedanger，andremainedthere。

Oneoftworemarkablecircumstancesisindisputablyafact，withreferencetothatclassofsocietywhotravelintheseboats。

Eithertheycarrytheirrestlessnesstosuchapitchthattheyneversleepatall；ortheyexpectorateindreams，whichwouldbearemarkableminglingoftherealandideal。Allnightlong，andeverynight，onthiscanal，therewasaperfectstormandtempestofspitting；andoncemycoat，beingintheverycentreofthehurricanesustainedbyfivegentlemen(whichmovedvertically，strictlycarryingoutReid"sTheoryoftheLawofStorms)，Iwasfainthenextmorningtolayitonthedeck，andrubitdownwithfairwaterbeforeitwasinaconditiontobewornagain。

Betweenfiveandsixo"clockinthemorningwegotup，andsomeofuswentondeck，togivethemanopportunityoftakingtheshelvesdown；whileothers，themorningbeingverycold，crowdedroundtherustystove，cherishingthenewlykindledfire，andfillingthegratewiththosevoluntarycontributionsofwhichtheyhadbeensoliberalallnight。Thewashingaccommodationswereprimitive。

Therewasatinladlechainedtothedeck，withwhicheverygentlemanwhothoughtitnecessarytocleansehimself(manyweresuperiortothisweakness)，fishedthedirtywateroutofthecanal，andpoureditintoatinbasin，securedinlikemanner。

Therewasalsoajack-towel。And，hangingupbeforealittlelooking-glassinthebar，intheimmediatevicinityofthebreadandcheeseandbiscuits，wereapubliccombandhair-brush。

Ateighto"clock，theshelvesbeingtakendownandputawayandthetablesjoinedtogether，everybodysatdowntothetea，coffee，bread，butter，salmon，shad，liver，steak，potatoes，pickles，ham，chops，black-puddings，andsausages，alloveragain。Somewerefondofcompoundingthisvariety，andhavingitallontheirplatesatonce。Aseachgentlemangotthroughhisownpersonalamountoftea，coffee，bread，butter，salmon，shad，liver，steak，potatoes，pickles，ham，chops，black-puddings，andsausages，heroseupandwalkedoff。Wheneverybodyhaddonewitheverything，thefragmentswereclearedaway:andoneofthewaitersappearinganewinthecharacterofabarber，shavedsuchofthecompanyasdesiredtobeshaved；whiletheremainderlookedon，oryawnedovertheirnewspapers。Dinnerwasbreakfastagain，withouttheteaandcoffee；andsupperandbreakfastwereidentical。

Therewasamanonboardthisboat，withalightfresh-colouredface，andapepper-and-saltsuitofclothes，whowasthemostinquisitivefellowthatcanpossiblybeimagined。Heneverspokeotherwisethaninterrogatively。Hewasanembodiedinquiry。

Sittingdownorstandingup，stillormoving，walkingthedeckortakinghismeals，therehewas，withagreatnoteofinterrogationineacheye，twoinhiscockedears，twomoreinhisturned-upnoseandchin，atleasthalfadozenmoreaboutthecornersofhismouth，andthelargestoneofallinhishair，whichwasbrushedpertlyoffhisforeheadinaflaxenclump。Everybuttoninhisclothessaid，"Eh？What"sthat？Didyouspeak？Saythatagain，willyou？"Hewasalwayswideawake，liketheenchantedbridewhodroveherhusbandfrantic；alwaysrestless；alwaysthirstingforanswers；perpetuallyseekingandneverfinding。Thereneverwassuchacuriousman。

Iworeafurgreat-coatatthattime，andbeforewewerewellclearofthewharf，hequestionedmeconcerningit，anditsprice，andwhereIboughtit，andwhen，andwhatfuritwas，andwhatitweighed，andwhatitcost。Thenhetooknoticeofmywatch，andaskedmewhatTHATcost，andwhetheritwasaFrenchwatch，andwhereIgotit，andhowIgotit，andwhetherIboughtitorhaditgivenme，andhowitwent，andwherethekey-holewas，andwhenI

woundit，everynightoreverymorning，andwhetherIeverforgottowinditatall，andifIdid，whatthen？WherehadIbeentolast，andwherewasIgoingnext，andwherewasIgoingafterthat，andhadIseenthePresident，andwhatdidhesay，andwhatdidI

say，andwhatdidhesaywhenIhadsaidthat？Eh？Lornow!dotell!

Findingthatnothingwouldsatisfyhim，Ievadedhisquestionsafterthefirstscoreortwo，andinparticularpleadedignorancerespectingthenameofthefurwhereofthecoatwasmade。Iamunabletosaywhetherthiswasthereason，butthatcoatfascinatedhimafterwards；heusuallykeptclosebehindmeasIwalked，andmovedasImoved，thathemightlookatitthebetter；andhefrequentlydivedintonarrowplacesaftermeattheriskofhislife，thathemighthavethesatisfactionofpassinghishanduptheback，andrubbingitthewrongway。

Wehadanotheroddspecimenonboard，ofadifferentkind。Thiswasathin-faced，spare-figuredmanofmiddleageandstature，dressedinadustydrabbish-colouredsuit，suchasIneversawbefore。Hewasperfectlyquietduringthefirstpartofthejourney:indeedIdon"trememberhavingsomuchasseenhimuntilhewasbroughtoutbycircumstances，asgreatmenoftenare。Theconjunctionofeventswhichmadehimfamous，happened，briefly，thus。

Thecanalextendstothefootofthemountain，andthere，ofcourse，itstops；thepassengersbeingconveyedacrossitbylandcarriage，andtakenonafterwardsbyanothercanalboat，thecounterpartofthefirst，whichawaitsthemontheotherside。

Therearetwocanallinesofpassage-boats；oneiscalledTheExpress，andone(acheaperone)ThePioneer。ThePioneergetsfirsttothemountain，andwaitsfortheExpresspeopletocomeup；

bothsetsofpassengersbeingconveyedacrossitatthesametime。

WeweretheExpresscompany；butwhenwehadcrossedthemountain，andhadcometothesecondboat，theproprietorstookitintotheirbeadstodraftallthePioneersintoitlikewise，sothatwewerefive-and-fortyatleast，andtheaccessionofpassengerswasnotatallofthatkindwhichimprovedtheprospectofsleepingatnight。

Ourpeoplegrumbledatthis，aspeopledoinsuchcases；butsufferedtheboattobetowedoffwiththewholefreightaboardnevertheless；andawaywewentdownthecanal。Athome，Ishouldhaveprotestedlustily，butbeingaforeignerhere，Iheldmypeace。Notsothispassenger。Hecleftapathamongthepeopleondeck(wewerenearlyallondeck)，andwithoutaddressinganybodywhomsoever，soliloquisedasfollows:

"ThismaysuitYOU，thismay，butitdon"tsuitME。ThismaybeallverywellwithDownEasters，andmenofBostonraising，butitwon"tsuitmyfigurenohow；andnotwowaysaboutTHAT；andsoI

tellyou。Now!I"mfromthebrownforestsofMississippi，Iam，andwhenthesunshinesonme，itdoesshine-alittle。Itdon"tglimmerwhereIlive，thesundon"t。No。I"mabrownforester，I

am。Ian"taJohnnyCake。TherearenosmoothskinswhereIlive。

We"reroughmenthere。Rather。IfDownEastersandmenofBostonraisinglikethis，I"mgladofit，butI"mnoneofthatraisingnorofthatbreed。No。Thiscompanywantsalittlefixing，ITdoes。

I"mthewrongsortofmanfor"em，Iam。Theywon"tlikeme，THEY

won"t。Thisispilingofitup，alittletoomountainous，thisis。"Attheendofeveryoneoftheseshortsentencesheturneduponhisheel，andwalkedtheotherway；checkinghimselfabruptlywhenhehadfinishedanothershortsentence，andturningbackagain。

Itisimpossibleformetosaywhatterrificmeaningwashiddeninthewordsofthisbrownforester，butIknowthattheotherpassengerslookedoninasortofadmiringhorror，andthatpresentlytheboatwasputbacktothewharf，andasmanyofthePioneersascouldbecoaxedorbulliedintogoingaway，weregotridof。

Whenwestartedagain，someoftheboldestspiritsonboard，madeboldtosaytotheobviousoccasionofthisimprovementinourprospects，"Muchobligedtoyou，sir；"whereuntothebrownforester(wavinghishand，andstillwalkingupanddownasbefore)，replied，"Noyouan"t。You"renoneo"myraising。Youmayactforyourselves，YOUmay。Ihavepintedouttheway。DownEastersandJohnnyCakescanfollowiftheyplease。Ian"taJohnnyCake，I

an"t。IamfromthebrownforestsoftheMississippi，Iam"-andsoon，asbefore。Hewasunanimouslyvotedoneofthetablesforhisbedatnight-thereisagreatcontestforthetables-inconsiderationforhispublicservices:andhehadthewarmestcornerbythestovethroughouttherestofthejourney。ButI

nevercouldfindoutthathedidanythingexceptsitthere；nordidIhearhimspeakagainuntil，inthemidstofthebustleandturmoilofgettingtheluggageashoreinthedarkatPittsburg，I

stumbledoverhimashesatsmokingacigaronthecabinsteps，andheardhimmutteringtohimself，withashortlaughofdefiance，"I

an"taJohnnyCake，-Ian"t。I"mfromthebrownforestsoftheMississippi，Iam，damme!"Iaminclinedtoarguefromthis，thathehadneverleftoffsayingso；butIcouldnotmakeanaffidavitofthatpartofthestory，ifrequiredtodosobymyQueenandCountry。

AswehavenotreachedPittsburgyet，however，intheorderofournarrative，Imaygoontoremarkthatbreakfastwasperhapstheleastdesirablemealoftheday，asinadditiontothemanysavouryodoursarisingfromtheeatablesalreadymentioned，therewerewhiffsofgin，whiskey，brandy，andrum，fromthelittlebarhardby，andadecidedseasoningofstaletobacco。Manyofthegentlemenpassengerswerefarfromparticularinrespectoftheirlinen，whichwasinsomecasesasyellowasthelittlerivuletsthathadtrickledfromthecornersoftheirmouthsinchewing，anddriedthere。Norwastheatmospherequitefreefromzephyrwhisperingsofthethirtybedswhichhadjustbeenclearedaway，andofwhichwewerefurtherandmorepressinglyremindedbytheoccasionalappearanceonthetable-clothofakindofGame，notmentionedintheBillofFare。

Andyetdespitetheseoddities-andeventheyhad，formeatleast，ahumouroftheirown-therewasmuchinthismodeoftravellingwhichIheartilyenjoyedatthetime，andlookbackuponwithgreatpleasure。Eventherunningup，bare-necked，atfiveo"clockinthemorning，fromthetaintedcabintothedirtydeck；

scoopinguptheicywater，plungingone"sheadintoit，anddrawingitout，allfreshandglowingwiththecold；wasagoodthing。Thefast，briskwalkuponthetowing-path，betweenthattimeandbreakfast，wheneveryveinandarteryseemedtotinglewithhealth；

theexquisitebeautyoftheopeningday，whenlightcamegleamingofffromeverything；thelazymotionoftheboat，whenonelayidlyonthedeck，lookingthrough，ratherthanat，thedeepbluesky；

theglidingonatnight，sonoiselessly，pastfrowninghills，sullenwithdarktrees，andsometimesangryinonered，burningspothighup，whereunseenmenlaycrouchingroundafire；theshiningoutofthebrightstarsundisturbedbynoiseofwheelsorsteam，oranyothersoundthanthelimpidripplingofthewaterastheboatwenton:allthesewerepuredelights。

Thentherewerenewsettlementsanddetachedlog-cabinsandframe-

houses，fullofinterestforstrangersfromanoldcountry:cabinswithsimpleovens，outside，madeofclay；andlodgingsforthepigsnearlyasgoodasmanyofthehumanquarters；brokenwindows，patchedwithworn-outhats，oldclothes，oldboards，fragmentsofblanketsandpaper；andhome-madedressersstandingintheopenairwithoutthedoor，whereonwasrangedthehouseholdstore，nothardtocount，ofearthenjarsandpots。Theeyewaspainedtoseethestumpsofgreattreesthicklystrewnineveryfieldofwheat，andseldomtolosetheeternalswampanddullmorass，withhundredsofrottentrunksandtwistedbranchessteepedinitsunwholesomewater。Itwasquitesadandoppressive，tocomeupongreattractswheresettlershadbeenburningdownthetrees，andwheretheirwoundedbodieslayabout，likethoseofmurderedcreatures，whilehereandtheresomecharredandblackenedgiantrearedalofttwowitheredarms，andseemedtocalldowncursesonhisfoes。

Sometimes，atnight，thewaywoundthroughsomelonelygorge，likeamountainpassinScotland，shiningandcoldlyglitteringinthelightofthemoon，andsoclosedinbyhighsteephillsallround，thatthereseemedtobenoegresssavethroughthenarrowerpathbywhichwehadcome，untiloneruggedhill-sideseemedtoopen，andshuttingoutthemoonlightaswepassedintoitsgloomythroat，wrappedournewcourseinshadeanddarkness。

WehadleftHarrisburgonFriday。OnSundaymorningwearrivedatthefootofthemountain，whichiscrossedbyrailroad。Thereareteninclinedplanes；fiveascending，andfivedescending；thecarriagesaredraggeduptheformer，andletslowlydownthelatter，bymeansofstationaryengines；thecomparativelylevelspacesbetween，beingtraversed，sometimesbyhorse，andsometimesbyenginepower，asthecasedemands。Occasionallytherailsarelaidupontheextremevergeofagiddyprecipice；andlookingfromthecarriagewindow，thetravellergazessheerdown，withoutastoneorscrapoffencebetween，intothemountaindepthsbelow。

Thejourneyisverycarefullymade，however；onlytwocarriagestravellingtogether；andwhileproperprecautionsaretaken，isnottobedreadedforitsdangers。

Itwasveryprettytravellingthus，atarapidpacealongtheheightsofthemountaininakeenwind，tolookdownintoavalleyfulloflightandsoftness；catchingglimpses，throughthetree-