第8章

ThereisaverypleasantandcommodiouslibraryintheCapitol；andfromabalconyinfront，thebird"s-eyeview，ofwhichIhavejustspoken，maybehad，togetherwithabeautifulprospectoftheadjacentcountry。Inoneoftheornamentedportionsofthebuilding，thereisafigureofJustice；whereuntotheGuideBooksays，"theartistatfirstcontemplatedgivingmoreofnudity，buthewaswarnedthatthepublicsentimentinthiscountrywouldnotadmitofit，andinhiscautionhehasgone，perhaps，intotheoppositeextreme。"PoorJustice!shehasbeenmadetowearmuchstrangergarmentsinAmericathanthoseshepinesin，intheCapitol。Letushopethatshehaschangedherdress-makersincetheywerefashioned，andthatthepublicsentimentofthecountrydidnotcutouttheclothesshehidesherlovelyfigurein，justnow。

TheHouseofRepresentativesisabeautifulandspacioushall，ofsemicircularshape，supportedbyhandsomepillars。Onepartofthegalleryisappropriatedtotheladies，andtheretheysitinfrontrows，andcomein，andgoout，asataplayorconcert。Thechairiscanopied，andraisedconsiderablyabovetheflooroftheHouse；

andeverymemberhasaneasychairandawritingdesktohimself:

whichisdenouncedbysomepeopleoutofdoorsasamostunfortunateandinjudiciousarrangement，tendingtolongsittingsandprosaicspeeches。Itisanelegantchambertolookat，butasingularlybadoneforallpurposesofhearing。TheSenate，whichissmaller，isfreefromthisobjection，andisexceedinglywelladaptedtotheusesforwhichitisdesigned。Thesittings，Ineedhardlyadd，takeplaceintheday；andtheparliamentaryformsaremodelledonthoseoftheoldcountry。

Iwassometimesasked，inmyprogressthroughotherplaces，whetherIhadnotbeenverymuchimpressedbytheHEADSofthelawmakersatWashington；meaningnottheirchiefsandleaders，butliterallytheirindividualandpersonalheads，whereontheirhairgrew，andwherebythephrenologicalcharacterofeachlegislatorwasexpressed:andIalmostasoftenstruckmyquestionerdumbwithindignantconsternationbyanswering"No，thatIdidn"trememberbeingatallovercome。"AsImust，atwhateverhazard，repeattheavowalhere，Iwillfollowitupbyrelatingmyimpressionsonthissubjectinasfewwordsaspossible。

Inthefirstplace-itmaybefromsomeimperfectdevelopmentofmyorganofveneration-Idonotrememberhavingeverfaintedaway，orhavingevenbeenmovedtotearsofjoyfulpride，atsightofanylegislativebody。IhavebornetheHouseofCommonslikeaman，andhaveyieldedtonoweakness，butslumber，intheHouseofLords。Ihaveseenelectionsforboroughandcounty，andhaveneverbeenimpelled(nomatterwhichpartywon)todamagemyhatbythrowingitupintotheairintriumph，ortocrackmyvoicebyshoutingforthanyreferencetoourGloriousConstitution，tothenoblepurityofourindependentvoters，or，theunimpeachableintegrityofourindependentmembers。Havingwithstoodsuchstrongattacksuponmyfortitude，itispossiblethatImaybeofacoldandinsensibletemperament，amountingtoiciness，insuchmatters；

andthereforemyimpressionsofthelivepillarsoftheCapitolatWashingtonmustbereceivedwithsuchgrainsofallowanceasthisfreeconfessionmayseemtodemand。

DidIseeinthispublicbodyanassemblageofmen，boundtogetherinthesacrednamesofLibertyandFreedom，andsoassertingthechastedignityofthosetwingoddesses，inalltheirdiscussions，astoexaltatoncetheEternalPrinciplestowhichtheirnamesaregiven，andtheirowncharacterandthecharacteroftheircountrymen，intheadmiringeyesofthewholeworld？

Itwasbutaweek，sinceanaged，grey-hairedman，alastinghonourtothelandthatgavehimbirth，whohasdonegoodservicetohiscountry，ashisforefathersdid，andwhowillberememberedscoresuponscoresofyearsafterthewormsbredinitscorruption，arebutsomanygrainsofdust-itwasbutaweek，sincethisoldmanhadstoodfordaysuponhistrialbeforethisverybody，chargedwithhavingdaredtoasserttheinfamyofthattraffic，whichhasforitsaccursedmerchandisemenandwomen，andtheirunbornchildren。Yes。Andpubliclyexhibitedinthesamecityallthewhile；gilded，framedandglazedhungupforgeneraladmiration；

showntostrangersnotwithshame，butpride；itsfacenotturnedtowardsthewall，itselfnottakendownandburned；istheUnanimousDeclarationoftheThirteenUnitedStatesofAmerica，whichsolemnlydeclaresthatAllMenarecreatedEqual；andareendowedbytheirCreatorwiththeInalienableRightsofLife，Liberty，andthePursuitofHappiness!

Itwasnotamonth，sincethissamebodyhadsatcalmlyby，andheardaman，oneofthemselves，withoathswhichbeggarsintheirdrinkreject，threatentocutanother"sthroatfromeartoear。

Therehesat，amongthem；notcrushedbythegeneralfeelingoftheassembly，butasgoodamanasany。

Therewasbutaweektocome，andanotherofthatbody，fordoinghisdutytothosewhosenthimthere；forclaiminginaRepublictheLibertyandFreedomofexpressingtheirsentiments，andmakingknowntheirprayer；wouldbetried，foundguilty，andhavestrongcensurepasseduponhimbytherest。Hiswasagraveoffenceindeed；foryearsbefore，hehadrisenupandsaid，"Agangofmaleandfemaleslavesforsale，warrantedtobreedlikecattle，linkedtoeachotherbyironfetters，arepassingnowalongtheopenstreetbeneaththewindowsofyourTempleofEquality!Look!"ButtherearemanykindsofhuntersengagedinthePursuitofHappiness，andtheygovariouslyarmed。ItistheInalienableRightofsomeamongthem，totakethefieldafterTHEIRHappinessequippedwithcatandcartwhip，stocks，andironcollar，andtoshouttheirviewhalloa!(alwaysinpraiseofLiberty)tothemusicofclankingchainsandbloodystripes。

Wheresatthemanylegislatorsofcoarsethreats；ofwordsandblowssuchascoalheaversdealuponeachother，whentheyforgettheirbreeding？Oneveryside。Everysessionhaditsanecdotesofthatkind，andtheactorswereallthere。

DidIrecogniseinthisassembly，abodyofmen，who，applyingthemselvesinanewworldtocorrectsomeofthefalsehoodsandvicesoftheold，purifiedtheavenuestoPublicLife，pavedthedirtywaystoPlaceandPower，debatedandmadelawsfortheCommonGood，andhadnopartybuttheirCountry？

Isawinthem，thewheelsthatmovethemeanestperversionofvirtuousPoliticalMachinerythattheworsttoolseverwrought。

Despicabletrickeryatelections；under-handedtamperingswithpublicofficers；cowardlyattacksuponopponents，withscurrilousnewspapersforshields，andhiredpensfordaggers；shamefultrucklingstomercenaryknaves，whoseclaimtobeconsidered，is，thateverydayandweektheysownewcropsofruinwiththeirvenaltypes，whicharethedragon"steethofyore，ineverythingbutsharpness；aidingsandabettingsofeverybadinclinationinthepopularmind，andartfulsuppressionsofallitsgoodinfluences:

suchthingsasthese，andinaword，DishonestFactioninitsmostdepravedandmostunblushingform，staredoutfromeverycornerofthecrowdedhall。

DidIseeamongthem，theintelligenceandrefinement:thetrue，honest，patrioticheartofAmerica？Hereandthere，weredropsofitsbloodandlife，buttheyscarcelycolouredthestreamofdesperateadventurerswhichsetsthatwayforprofitandforpay。

Itisthegameofthesemen，andoftheirprofligateorgans，tomakethestrifeofpoliticssofierceandbrutal，andsodestructiveofallself-respectinworthymen，thatsensitiveanddelicate-mindedpersonsshallbekeptaloof，andthey，andsuchasthey，belefttobattleouttheirselfishviewsunchecked。Andthusthislowestofallscramblingfightsgoeson，andtheywhoinothercountrieswould，fromtheirintelligenceandstation，mostaspiretomakethelaws，dohererecoilthefarthestfromthatdegradation。

Thatthereare，amongtherepresentativesofthepeopleinbothHouses，andamongallparties，somemenofhighcharacterandgreatabilities，Ineednotsay。TheforemostamongthosepoliticianswhoareknowninEurope，havebeenalreadydescribed，andIseenoreasontodepartfromtheruleIhavelaiddownformyguidance，ofabstainingfromallmentionofindividuals。Itwillbesufficienttoadd，thattothemostfavourableaccountsthathavebeenwrittenofthem，Imorethanfullyandmostheartilysubscribe；andthatpersonalintercourseandfreecommunicationhavebredwithinme，nottheresultpredictedintheverydoubtfulproverb，butincreasedadmirationandrespect。Theyarestrikingmentolookat，hardtodeceive，prompttoact，lionsinenergy，Crichtonsinvariedaccomplishments，Indiansinfireofeyeandgesture，Americansinstrongandgenerousimpulse；andtheyaswellrepresentthehonourandwisdomoftheircountryathome，asthedistinguishedgentlemanwhoisnowitsMinisterattheBritishCourtsustainsitshighestcharacterabroad。

Ivisitedbothhousesnearlyeveryday，duringmystayinWashington。OnmyinitiatoryvisittotheHouseofRepresentatives，theydividedagainstadecisionofthechair；butthechairwon。ThesecondtimeIwent，thememberwhowasspeaking，beinginterruptedbyalaugh，mimickedit，asonechildwouldinquarrellingwithanother，andadded，"thathewouldmakehonourablegentlemenopposite，singoutalittlemoreontheothersideoftheirmouthspresently。"Butinterruptionsarerare；thespeakerbeingusuallyheardinsilence。Therearemorequarrelsthanwithus，andmorethreateningsthangentlemenareaccustomedtoexchangeinanycivilisedsocietyofwhichwehaverecord:butfarm-yardimitationshavenotasyetbeenimportedfromtheParliamentoftheUnitedKingdom。Thefeatureinoratorywhichappearstobethemostpractised，andmostrelished，istheconstantrepetitionofthesameideaorshadowofanideainfreshwords；andtheinquiryoutofdoorsisnot，"Whatdidhesay？"but，"Howlongdidhespeak？"These，however，arebutenlargementsofaprinciplewhichprevailselsewhere。

TheSenateisadignifiedanddecorousbody，anditsproceedingsareconductedwithmuchgravityandorder。Bothhousesarehandsomelycarpeted；butthestatetowhichthesecarpetsarereducedbytheuniversaldisregardofthespittoonwithwhicheveryhonourablememberisaccommodated，andtheextraordinaryimprovementsonthepatternwhicharesquirtedanddabbleduponitineverydirection，donotadmitofbeingdescribed。Iwillmerelyobserve，thatIstronglyrecommendallstrangersnottolookatthefloor；andiftheyhappentodropanything，thoughitbetheirpurse，nottopickitupwithanunglovedhandonanyaccount。

Itissomewhatremarkabletoo，atfirst，tosaytheleast，toseesomanyhonourablememberswithswelledfaces；anditisscarcelylessremarkabletodiscoverthatthisappearanceiscausedbythequantityoftobaccotheycontrivetostowwithinthehollowofthecheek。Itisstrangeenoughtoo，toseeanhonourablegentlemanleaningbackinhistiltedchairwithhislegsonthedeskbeforehim，shapingaconvenient"plug"withhispenknife，andwhenitisquitereadyforuse，shootingtheoldonefromhismouth，asfromapop-gun，andclappingthenewoneinitsplace。

Iwassurprisedtoobservethatevensteadyoldchewersofgreatexperience，arenotalwaysgoodmarksmen，whichhasratherinclinedmetodoubtthatgeneralproficiencywiththerifle，ofwhichwehaveheardsomuchinEngland。Severalgentlemencalleduponmewho，inthecourseofconversation，frequentlymissedthespittoonatfivepaces；andone(buthewascertainlyshort-sighted)mistooktheclosedsashfortheopenwindow，atthree。Onanotheroccasion，whenIdinedout，andwassittingwithtwoladiesandsomegentlemenroundafirebeforedinner，oneofthecompanyfellshortofthefireplace，sixdistincttimes。Iamdisposedtothink，however，thatthiswasoccasionedbyhisnotaimingatthatobject；astherewasawhitemarblehearthbeforethefender，whichwasmoreconvenient，andmayhavesuitedhispurposebetter。

ThePatentOfficeatWashington，furnishesanextraordinaryexampleofAmericanenterpriseandingenuity；fortheimmensenumberofmodelsitcontainsaretheaccumulatedinventionsofonlyfiveyears；thewholeofthepreviouscollectionhavingbeendestroyedbyfire。Theelegantstructureinwhichtheyarearrangedisoneofdesignratherthanexecution，forthereisbutonesideerectedoutoffour，thoughtheworksarestopped。ThePostOfficeisaverycompactandverybeautifulbuilding。Inoneofthedepartments，amongacollectionofrareandcuriousarticles，aredepositedthepresentswhichhavebeenmadefromtimetotimetotheAmericanambassadorsatforeigncourtsbythevariouspotentatestowhomtheyweretheaccreditedagentsoftheRepublic；

giftswhichbythelawtheyarenotpermittedtoretain。IconfessthatIlookeduponthisasaverypainfulexhibition，andonebynomeansflatteringtothenationalstandardofhonestyandhonour。

Thatcanscarcelybeahighstateofmoralfeelingwhichimaginesagentlemanofreputeandstation，likelytobecorrupted，inthedischargeofhisduty，bythepresentofasnuff-box，orarichly-

mountedsword，oranEasternshawl；andsurelytheNationwhoreposesconfidenceinherappointedservants，islikelytobebetterserved，thanshewhomakesthemthesubjectofsuchverymeanandpaltrysuspicions。

AtGeorgeTown，inthesuburbs，thereisaJesuitCollege；

delightfullysituated，and，sofarasIhadanopportunityofseeing，wellmanaged。ManypersonswhoarenotmembersoftheRomishChurch，availthemselves，Ibelieve，oftheseinstitutions，andoftheadvantageousopportunitiestheyaffordfortheeducationoftheirchildren。Theheightsofthisneighbourhood，abovethePotomacRiver，areverypicturesque:andarefree，Ishouldconceive，fromsomeoftheinsalubritiesofWashington。Theair，atthatelevation，wasquitecoolandrefreshing，wheninthecityitwasburninghot。

ThePresident"smansionismorelikeanEnglishclub-house，bothwithinandwithout，thananyotherkindofestablishmentwithwhichIcancompareit。Theornamentalgroundaboutithasbeenlaidoutingardenwalks；theyarepretty，andagreeabletotheeye；thoughtheyhavethatuncomfortableairofhavingbeenmadeyesterday，whichisfarfromfavourabletothedisplayofsuchbeauties。

Myfirstvisittothishousewasonthemorningaftermyarrival，whenIwascarriedthitherbyanofficialgentleman，whowassokindastochargehimselfwithmypresentationtothePresident。

Weenteredalargehall，andhavingtwiceorthricerungabellwhichnobodyanswered，walkedwithoutfurtherceremonythroughtheroomsonthegroundfloor，asdiversothergentlemen(mostlywiththeirhatson，andtheirhandsintheirpockets)weredoingveryleisurely。Someofthesehadladieswiththem，towhomtheywereshowingthepremises；otherswereloungingonthechairsandsofas；

others，inaperfectstateofexhaustionfromlistlessness，wereyawningdrearily。Thegreaterportionofthisassemblagewereratherassertingtheirsupremacythandoinganythingelse，astheyhadnoparticularbusinessthere，thatanybodyknewof。Afewwerecloselyeyeingthemovables，asiftomakequitesurethatthePresident(whowasfarfrompopular)hadnotmadeawaywithanyofthefurniture，orsoldthefixturesforhisprivatebenefit。

Afterglancingattheseloungers；whowerescatteredoveraprettydrawing-room，openinguponaterracewhichcommandedabeautifulprospectoftheriverandtheadjacentcountry；andwhoweresauntering，too，aboutalargerstate-roomcalledtheEasternDrawing-room；wewentup-stairsintoanotherchamber，wherewerecertainvisitors，waitingforaudiences。Atsightofmyconductor，ablackinplainclothesandyellowslipperswhowasglidingnoiselesslyabout，andwhisperingmessagesintheearsofthemoreimpatient，madeasignofrecognition，andglidedofftoannouncehim。

Wehadpreviouslylookedintoanotherchamberfittedallroundwithagreat，bare，woodendeskorcounter，whereonlayfilesofnewspapers，towhichsundrygentlemenwerereferring。Buttherewerenosuchmeansofbeguilingthetimeinthisapartment，whichwasasunpromisingandtiresomeasanywaiting-roominoneofourpublicestablishments，oranyphysician"sdining-roomduringhishoursofconsultationathome。

Thereweresomefifteenortwentypersonsintheroom。One，atall，wiry，muscularoldman，fromthewest；sunburntandswarthy；

withabrownwhitehatonhisknees，andagiantumbrellarestingbetweenhislegs；whosatboltuprightinhischair，frowningsteadilyatthecarpet，andtwitchingthehardlinesabouthismouth，asifhehadmadeuphismind"tofix"thePresidentonwhathehadtosay，andwouldn"tbatehimagrain。Another，aKentuckyfarmer，six-feet-sixinheight，withhishaton，andhishandsunderhiscoat-tails，wholeanedagainstthewallandkickedthefloorwithhisheel，asthoughhehadTime"sheadunderhisshoe，andwereliterally"killing"him。Athird，anoval-faced，bilious-

lookingman，withsleekblackhaircroppedclose，andwhiskersandbeardshaveddowntobluedots，whosuckedtheheadofathickstick，andfromtimetotimetookitoutofhismouth，toseehowitwasgettingon。Afourthdidnothingbutwhistle。Afifthdidnothingbutspit。Andindeedallthesegentlemenweresoveryperseveringandenergeticinthislatterparticular，andbestowedtheirfavourssoabundantlyuponthecarpet，thatItakeitforgrantedthePresidentialhousemaidshavehighwages，or，tospeakmoregenteelly，anampleamountof"compensation:"whichistheAmericanwordforsalary，inthecaseofallpublicservants。

Wehadnotwaitedinthisroommanyminutes，beforetheblackmessengerreturned，andconductedusintoanotherofsmallerdimensions，where，atabusiness-liketablecoveredwithpapers，satthePresidenthimself。Helookedsomewhatwornandanxious，andwellhemight；beingatwarwitheverybody-buttheexpressionofhisfacewasmildandpleasant，andhismannerwasremarkablyunaffected，gentlemanly，andagreeable。Ithoughtthatinhiswholecarriageanddemeanour，hebecamehisstationsingularlywell。

Beingadvisedthatthesensibleetiquetteoftherepublicancourtadmittedofatraveller，likemyself，declining，withoutanyimpropriety，aninvitationtodinner，whichdidnotreachmeuntilIhadconcludedmyarrangementsforleavingWashingtonsomedaysbeforethattowhichitreferred，Ionlyreturnedtothishouseonce。Itwasontheoccasionofoneofthosegeneralassemblieswhichareheldoncertainnights，betweenthehoursofnineandtwelveo"clock，andarecalled，ratheroddly，Levees。

Iwent，withmywife，ataboutten。Therewasaprettydensecrowdofcarriagesandpeopleinthecourt-yard，andsofarasIcouldmakeout，therewerenoveryclearregulationsforthetakinguporsettingdownofcompany。Therewerecertainlynopolicementosoothestartledhorses，eitherbysawingattheirbridlesorflourishingtruncheonsintheireyes；andIamreadytomakeoaththatnoinoffensivepersonswereknockedviolentlyonthehead，orpokedacutelyintheirbacksorstomachs；orbroughttoastandstillbyanysuchgentlemeans，andthentakenintocustodyfornotmovingon。Buttherewasnoconfusionordisorder。Ourcarriagereachedtheporchinitsturn，withoutanyblustering，swearing，shouting，backing，orotherdisturbance:andwedismountedwithasmucheaseandcomfortasthoughwehadbeenescortedbythewholeMetropolitanForcefromAtoZinclusive。

Thesuiteofroomsontheground-floorwerelightedup，andamilitarybandwasplayinginthehall。Inthesmallerdrawing-

room，thecentreofacircleofcompany，werethePresidentandhisdaughter-in-law，whoactedastheladyofthemansion；andaveryinteresting，graceful，andaccomplishedladytoo。Onegentlemanwhostoodamongthisgroup，appearedtotakeuponhimselfthefunctionsofamasteroftheceremonies。Isawnootherofficersorattendants，andnonewereneeded。

Thegreatdrawing-room，whichIhavealreadymentioned，andtheotherchambersontheground-floor，werecrowdedtoexcess。Thecompanywasnot，inoursenseoftheterm，select，foritcomprehendedpersonsofverymanygradesandclasses；norwasthereanygreatdisplayofcostlyattire:indeed，someofthecostumesmayhavebeen，foraughtIknow，grotesqueenough。Butthedecorumandproprietyofbehaviourwhichprevailed，wereunbrokenbyanyrudeordisagreeableincident；andeveryman，evenamongthemiscellaneouscrowdinthehallwhowereadmittedwithoutanyordersorticketstolookon，appearedtofeelthathewasapartoftheInstitution，andwasresponsibleforitspreservingabecomingcharacter，andappearingtothebestadvantage。

Thatthesevisitors，too，whatevertheirstation，werenotwithoutsomerefinementoftasteandappreciationofintellectualgifts，andgratitudetothosemenwho，bythepeacefulexerciseofgreatabilities，shednewcharmsandassociationsuponthehomesoftheircountrymen，andelevatetheircharacterinotherlands，wasmostearnestlytestifiedbytheirreceptionofWashingtonIrving，mydearfriend，whohadrecentlybeenappointedMinisteratthecourtofSpain，andwhowasamongthemthatnight，inhisnewcharacter，forthefirstandlasttimebeforegoingabroad。IsincerelybelievethatinallthemadnessofAmericanpolitics，fewpublicmenwouldhavebeensoearnestly，devotedly，andaffectionatelycaressed，asthismostcharmingwriter:andIhaveseldomrespectedapublicassemblymore，thanIdidthiseagerthrong，whenIsawthemturningwithonemindfromnoisyoratorsandofficersofstate，andflockingwithagenerousandhonestimpulseroundthemanofquietpursuits:proudinhispromotionasreflectingbackupontheircountry:andgratefultohimwiththeirwholeheartsforthestoreofgracefulfancieshehadpouredoutamongthem。Longmayhedispensesuchtreasureswithunsparinghand；andlongmaytheyrememberhimasworthily!

ThetermwehadassignedforthedurationofourstayinWashingtonwasnowatanend，andweweretobegintotravel；fortherailroaddistanceswehadtraversedyet，injourneyingamongtheseoldertowns，areonthatgreatcontinentlookeduponasnothing。

IhadatfirstintendedgoingSouth-toCharleston。ButwhenI

cametoconsiderthelengthoftimewhichthisjourneywouldoccupy，andtheprematureheatoftheseason，whichevenatWashingtonhadbeenoftenverytrying；andweighedmoreover，inmyownmind，thepainoflivingintheconstantcontemplationofslavery，againstthemorethandoubtfulchancesofmyeverseeingit，inthetimeIhadtospare，strippedofthedisguisesinwhichitwouldcertainlybedressed，andsoaddinganyitemtothehostoffactsalreadyheapedtogetheronthesubject；IbegantolistentooldwhisperingswhichhadoftenbeenpresenttomeathomeinEngland，whenIlittlethoughtofeverbeinghere；andtodreamagainofcitiesgrowingup，likepalacesinfairytales，amongthewildsandforestsofthewest。

TheadviceIreceivedinmostquarterswhenIbegantoyieldtomydesireoftravellingtowardsthatpointofthecompasswas，accordingtocustom，sufficientlycheerless:mycompanionbeingthreatenedwithmoreperils，dangers，anddiscomforts，thanIcanrememberorwouldcatalogueifIcould；butofwhichitwillbesufficienttoremarkthatblowings-upinsteamboatsandbreakings-

downincoacheswereamongtheleast。But，havingawesternroutesketchedoutformebythebestandkindestauthoritytowhichI

couldhaveresorted，andputtingnogreatfaithinthesediscouragements，Isoondeterminedonmyplanofaction。

Thiswastotravelsouth，onlytoRichmondinVirginia；andthentoturn，andshapeourcoursefortheFarWest；whitherIbeseechthereader"scompany，inanewchapter。

CHAPTERIX-ANIGHTSTEAMERONTHEPOTOMACRIVER。VIRGINIAROAD，ANDABLACKDRIVER。RICHMOND。BALTIMORE。THEHARRISBURGMAIL，ANDAGLIMPSEOFTHECITY。ACANALBOAT

WEweretoproceedinthefirstinstancebysteamboat；andasitisusualtosleeponboard，inconsequenceofthestarting-hourbeingfouro"clockinthemorning，wewentdowntowhereshelay，atthatveryuncomfortabletimeforsuchexpeditionswhenslippersaremostvaluable，andafamiliarbed，intheperspectiveofanhourortwo，looksuncommonlypleasant。

Itisteno"clockatnight:sayhalf-pastten:moonlight，warm，anddullenough。Thesteamer(notunlikeachild"sNoah"sarkinform，withthemachineryonthetopoftheroof)isridinglazilyupanddown，andbumpingclumsilyagainstthewoodenpier，astherippleoftherivertrifleswithitsunwieldycarcase。Thewharfissomedistancefromthecity。Thereisnobodydownhere；andoneortwodulllampsuponthesteamer"sdecksaretheonlysignsofliferemaining，whenourcoachhasdrivenaway。Assoonasourfootstepsareheardupontheplanks，afatnegress，particularlyfavouredbynatureinrespectofbustle，emergesfromsomedarkstairs，andmarshalsmywifetowardstheladies"cabin，towhichretreatshegoes，followedbyamightybaleofcloaksandgreat-

coats。Ivaliantlyresolvenottogotobedatall，buttowalkupanddownthepiertillmorning。

Ibeginmypromenade-thinkingofallkindsofdistantthingsandpersons，andofnothingnear-andpaceupanddownforhalf-an-

hour。ThenIgoonboardagain；andgettingintothelightofoneofthelamps，lookatmywatchandthinkitmusthavestopped；andwonderwhathasbecomeofthefaithfulsecretarywhomIbroughtalongwithmefromBoston。Heissuppingwithourlatelandlord(aFieldMarshal，atleast，nodoubt)inhonourofourdeparture，andmaybetwohourslonger。Iwalkagain，butitgetsdullerandduller:themoongoesdown:nextJuneseemsfartheroffinthedark，andtheechoesofmyfootstepsmakemenervous。Ithasturnedcoldtoo；andwalkingupanddownwithoutmycompanioninsuchlonelycircumstances，isbutpooramusement。SoIbreakmystaunchresolution，andthinkitmaybe，perhaps，aswelltogotobed。

Igoonboardagain；openthedoorofthegentlemen"scabinandwalkin。Somehoworother-fromitsbeingsoquiet，Isuppose-I

havetakenitintomyheadthatthereisnobodythere。Tomyhorrorandamazementitisfullofsleepersineverystage，shape，attitude，andvarietyofslumber:intheberths，onthechairs，onthefloors，onthetables，andparticularlyroundthestove，mydetestedenemy。Itakeanotherstepforward，andslipontheshiningfaceofablacksteward，wholiesrolledinablanketonthefloor。Hejumpsup，grins，halfinpainandhalfinhospitality；whispersmyownnameinmyear；andgropingamongthesleepers，leadsmetomyberth。Standingbesideit，Icounttheseslumberingpassengers，andgetpastforty。Thereisnouseingoingfurther，soIbegintoundress。Asthechairsarealloccupied，andthereisnothingelsetoputmyclotheson，Idepositthemupontheground:notwithoutsoilingmyhands，foritisinthesameconditionasthecarpetsintheCapitol，andfromthesamecause。Havingbutpartiallyundressed，Iclamberonmyshelf，andholdthecurtainopenforafewminuteswhileIlookroundonallmyfellow-travellersagain。Thatdone，Iletitfallonthem，andontheworld:turnround:andgotosleep。

Iwake，ofcourse，whenwegetunderweigh，forthereisagooddealofnoise。Thedayisthenjustbreaking。Everybodywakesatthesametime。Someareself-possesseddirectly，andsomearemuchperplexedtomakeoutwheretheyareuntiltheyhaverubbedtheireyes，andleaningononeelbow，lookedaboutthem。Someyawn，somegroan，nearlyallspit，andafewgetup。Iamamongtherisers:

foritiseasytofeel，withoutgoingintothefreshair，thattheatmosphereofthecabinisvileinthelastdegree。Ihuddleonmyclothes，godownintothefore-cabin，getshavedbythebarber，andwashmyself。Thewashinganddressingapparatusforthepassengersgenerally，consistsoftwojack-towels，threesmallwoodenbasins，akegofwaterandaladletoserveitoutwith，sixsquareinchesoflooking-glass，twodittodittoofyellowsoap，acombandbrushforthehead，andnothingfortheteeth。Everybodyusesthecombandbrush，exceptmyself。Everybodystarestoseemeusingmyown；

andtwoorthreegentlemenarestronglydisposedtobantermeonmyprejudices，butdon"t。WhenIhavemademytoilet，Igouponthehurricane-deck，andsetinfortwohoursofhardwalkingupanddown。Thesunisrisingbrilliantly；wearepassingMountVernon，whereWashingtonliesburied；theriveriswideandrapid；anditsbanksarebeautiful。Allthegloryandsplendourofthedayarecomingon，andgrowingbrightereveryminute。

Ateighto"clock，webreakfastinthecabinwhereIpassedthenight，butthewindowsanddoorsareallthrownopen，andnowitisfreshenough。Thereisnohurryorgreedinessapparentinthedespatchofthemeal。Itislongerthanatravellingbreakfastwithus；moreorderly，andmorepolite。

Soonafternineo"clockwecometoPotomacCreek，wherewearetoland；andthencomestheoddestpartofthejourney。Sevenstage-

coachesarepreparingtocarryuson。Someofthemareready，someofthemarenotready。Someofthedriversareblacks，somewhites。Therearefourhorsestoeachcoach，andallthehorses，harnessedorunharnessed，arethere。Thepassengersaregettingoutofthesteamboat，andintothecoaches；theluggageisbeingtransferredinnoisywheelbarrows；thehorsesarefrightened，andimpatienttostart；theblackdriversarechatteringtothemlikesomanymonkeys；andthewhiteoneswhoopinglikesomanydrovers:

forthemainthingtobedoneinallkindsofhostleringhere，istomakeasmuchnoiseaspossible。ThecoachesaresomethingliketheFrenchcoaches，butnotnearlysogood。Inlieuofsprings，theyarehungonbandsofthestrongestleather。Thereisverylittlechoiceordifferencebetweenthem；andtheymaybelikenedtothecarportionoftheswingsatanEnglishfair，roofed，putuponaxle-treesandwheels，andcurtainedwithpaintedcanvas。

Theyarecoveredwithmudfromtherooftothewheel-tire，andhaveneverbeencleanedsincetheywerefirstbuilt。

TheticketswehavereceivedonboardthesteamboataremarkedNo。

1，sowebelongtocoachNo。1。Ithrowmycoatonthebox，andhoistmywifeandhermaidintotheinside。Ithasonlyonestep，andthatbeingaboutayardfromtheground，isusuallyapproachedbyachair:whenthereisnochair，ladiestrustinProvidence。

Thecoachholdsnineinside，havingaseatacrossfromdoortodoor，whereweinEnglandputourlegs:sothatthereisonlyonefeatmoredifficultintheperformancethangettingin，andthatis，gettingoutagain。Thereisonlyoneoutsidepassenger，andhesitsuponthebox。AsIamthatone，Iclimbup；andwhiletheyarestrappingtheluggageontheroof，andheapingitintoakindoftraybehind，haveagoodopportunityoflookingatthedriver。

Heisanegro-veryblackindeed。Heisdressedinacoarsepepper-and-saltsuitexcessivelypatchedanddarned(particularlyattheknees)，greystockings，enormousunblackedhigh-lowshoes，andveryshorttrousers。Hehastwooddgloves:oneofparti-

colouredworsted，andoneofleather。Hehasaveryshortwhip，brokeninthemiddleandbandagedupwithstring。Andyethewearsalow-crowned，broad-brimmed，blackhat:faintlyshadowingforthakindofinsaneimitationofanEnglishcoachman!Butsomebodyinauthoritycries"Goahead!"asIammakingtheseobservations。Themailtakestheleadinafour-horsewaggon，andallthecoachesfollowinprocession:headedbyNo。1。

Bytheway，wheneveranEnglishmanwouldcry"Allright!"anAmericancries"Goahead!"whichissomewhatexpressiveofthenationalcharacterofthetwocountries。

Thefirsthalf-mileoftheroadisoverbridgesmadeoflooseplankslaidacrosstwoparallelpoles，whichtiltupasthewheelsrolloverthem；andINtheriver。Theriverhasaclayeybottomandisfullofholes，sothathalfahorseisconstantlydisappearingunexpectedly，andcan"tbefoundagainforsometime。

Butwegetpasteventhis，andcometotheroaditself，whichisaseriesofalternateswampsandgravel-pits。Atremendousplaceisclosebeforeus，theblackdriverrollshiseyes，screwshismouthupveryround，andlooksstraightbetweenthetwoleaders，asifheweresayingtohimself，"Wehavedonethisoftenbefore，butNOWI

thinkweshallhaveacrash。"Hetakesareinineachhand；jerksandpullsatboth；anddancesonthesplashboardwithbothfeet(keepinghisseat，ofcourse)likethelatelamentedDucrowontwoofhisfierycoursers。Wecometothespot，sinkdowninthemirenearlytothecoachwindows，tiltononesideatanangleofforty-

fivedegrees，andstickthere。Theinsidesscreamdismally；thecoachstops；thehorsesflounder；alltheothersixcoachesstop；

andtheirfour-and-twentyhorsesflounderlikewise:butmerelyforcompany，andinsympathywithours。Thenthefollowingcircumstancesoccur。

BLACKDRIVER(tothehorses)。"Hi!"

Nothinghappens。Insidesscreamagain。

BLACKDRIVER(tothehorses)。"Ho!"

Horsesplunge，andsplashtheblackdriver。

GENTLEMANINSIDE(lookingout)。"Why，whatonairth-

Gentlemanreceivesavarietyofsplashesanddrawshisheadinagain，withoutfinishinghisquestionorwaitingforananswer。

BLACKDRIVER(stilltothehorses)。"Jiddy!Jiddy!"

Horsespullviolently，dragthecoachoutofthehole，anddrawitupabank；sosteep，thattheblackdriver"slegsflyupintotheair，andhegoesbackamongtheluggageontheroof。Butheimmediatelyrecovershimself，andcries(stilltothehorses)，"Pill!"

Noeffect。Onthecontrary，thecoachbeginstorollbackuponNo。

2，whichrollsbackuponNo。3，whichrollsbackuponNo。4，andsoon，untilNo。7isheardtocurseandswear，nearlyaquarterofamilebehind。

BLACKDRIVER(louderthanbefore)。"Pill!"

Horsesmakeanotherstruggletogetupthebank，andagainthecoachrollsbackward。

BLACKDRIVER(louderthanbefore)。"Pe-e-e-ill!"

Horsesmakeadesperatestruggle。

BLACKDRIVER(recoveringspirits)。"Hi，Jiddy，Jiddy，Pill!"

Horsesmakeanothereffort。

BLACKDRIVER(withgreatvigour)。"AllyLoo!Hi。Jiddy，Jiddy。

Pill。AllyLoo!"

Horsesalmostdoit。

BLACKDRIVER(withhiseyesstartingoutofhishead)。"Lee，den。

Lee，dere。Hi。Jiddy，Jiddy。Pill。AllyLoo。Lee-e-e-e-e!"

Theyrunupthebank，andgodownagainontheothersideatafearfulpace。Itisimpossibletostopthem，andatthebottomthereisadeephollow，fullofwater。Thecoachrollsfrightfully。Theinsidesscream。Themudandwaterflyaboutus。

Theblackdriverdanceslikeamadman。Suddenlyweareallrightbysomeextraordinarymeans，andstoptobreathe。

Ablackfriendoftheblackdriverissittingonafence。Theblackdriverrecogniseshimbytwirlinghisheadroundandroundlikeaharlequin，rollinghiseyes，shrugginghisshoulders，andgrinningfromeartoear。Hestopsshort，turnstome，andsays:

"Weshallgetyouthroughsa，likeafiddle，andhopeapleaseyouwhenwegetyouthroughsa。Old"oomanathomesa:"chucklingverymuch。"Outsidegentlemansa，heoftenrememberold"oomanathomesa，"grinningagain。

"Ayay，we"lltakecareoftheoldwoman。Don"tbeafraid。"

Theblackdrivergrinsagain，butthereisanotherhole，andbeyondthat，anotherbank，closebeforeus。Sohestopsshort:cries(tothehorsesagain)"Easy。Easyden。Ease。Steady。Hi。Jiddy。

Pill。Ally。Loo，"butnever"Lee!"untilwearereducedtotheverylastextremity，andareinthemidstofdifficulties，extricationfromwhichappearstobeallbutimpossible。

Andsowedothetenmilesorthereaboutsintwohoursandahalf；

breakingnobones，thoughbruisingagreatmany；andinshortgettingthroughthedistance，"likeafiddle。"

ThissingularkindofcoachingterminatesatFredericksburgh，whencethereisarailwaytoRichmond。Thetractofcountrythroughwhichittakesitscoursewasonceproductive；butthesoilhasbeenexhaustedbythesystemofemployingagreatamountofslavelabourinforcingcrops，withoutstrengtheningtheland:anditisnowlittlebetterthanasandydesertovergrownwithtrees。

Drearyanduninterestingasitsaspectis，Iwasgladtothehearttofindanythingonwhichoneofthecursesofthishorribleinstitutionhasfallen；andhadgreaterpleasureincontemplatingthewitheredground，thantherichestandmostthrivingcultivationinthesameplacecouldpossiblyhaveaffordedme。

Inthisdistrict，asinallotherswhereslaverysitsbrooding，(I

havefrequentlyheardthisadmitted，evenbythosewhoareitswarmestadvocates:)thereisanairofruinanddecayabroad，whichisinseparablefromthesystem。Thebarnsandouthousesaremoulderingaway；theshedsarepatchedandhalfroofless；thelogcabins(builtinVirginiawithexternalchimneysmadeofclayorwood)aresqualidinthelastdegree。Thereisnolookofdecentcomfortanywhere。Themiserablestationsbytherailwayside，thegreatwildwood-yards，whencetheengineissuppliedwithfuel；thenegrochildrenrollingonthegroundbeforethecabindoors，withdogsandpigs；thebipedbeastsofburdenslinkingpast:gloomanddejectionareuponthemall。

Inthenegrocarbelongingtothetraininwhichwemadethisjourney，wereamotherandherchildrenwhohadjustbeenpurchased；thehusbandandfatherbeingleftbehindwiththeiroldowner。Thechildrencriedthewholeway，andthemotherwasmisery"spicture。ThechampionofLife，Liberty，andthePursuitofHappiness，whohadboughtthem，rodeinthesametrain；and，everytimewestopped，gotdowntoseethattheyweresafe。TheblackinSinbad"sTravelswithoneeyeinthemiddleofhisforeheadwhichshonelikeaburningcoal，wasnature"saristocratcomparedwiththiswhitegentleman。

Itwasbetweensixandseveno"clockintheevening，whenwedrovetothehotel:infrontofwhich，andonthetopofthebroadflightofstepsleadingtothedoor，twoorthreecitizenswerebalancingthemselvesonrocking-chairs，andsmokingcigars。Wefounditaverylargeandelegantestablishment，andwereaswellentertainedastravellersneeddesiretobe。Theclimatebeingathirstyone，therewasnever，atanyhouroftheday，ascarcityofloungersinthespaciousbar，oracessationofthemixingofcoolliquors:buttheywereamerrierpeoplehere，andhadmusicalinstrumentsplayingtothemo"nights，whichitwasatreattohearagain。

Thenextday，andthenext，werodeandwalkedaboutthetown，whichisdelightfullysituatedoneighthills，overhangingJamesRiver；asparklingstream，studdedhereandtherewithbrightislands，orbrawlingoverbrokenrocks。AlthoughitwasyetbutthemiddleofMarch，theweatherinthissoutherntemperaturewasextremelywarm；thepeech-treesandmagnoliaswereinfullbloom；

andthetreesweregreen。Inalowgroundamongthehills，isavalleyknownas"BloodyRun，"fromaterribleconflictwiththeIndianswhichonceoccurredthere。Itisagoodplaceforsuchastruggle，and，likeeveryotherspotIsawassociatedwithanylegendofthatwildpeoplenowsorapidlyfadingfromtheearth，interestedmeverymuch。

ThecityistheseatofthelocalparliamentofVirginia；andinitsshadylegislativehalls，someoratorsweredrowsilyholdingforthtothehotnoonday。Bydintofconstantrepetition，however，theseconstitutionalsightshadverylittlemoreinterestformethansomanyparochialvestries；andIwasgladtoexchangethisoneforaloungeinawell-arrangedpubliclibraryofsometenthousandvolumes，andavisittoatobaccomanufactory，wheretheworkmenareallslaves。

Isawinthisplacethewholeprocessofpicking，rolling，pressing，drying，packingincasks，andbranding。Allthetobaccothusdealtwith，wasincourseofmanufactureforchewing；andonewouldhavesupposedtherewasenoughinthatonestorehousetohavefilledeventhecomprehensivejawsofAmerica。Inthisform，theweedlooksliketheoil-cakeonwhichwefattencattle；andevenwithoutreferencetoitsconsequences，issufficientlyuninviting。

Manyoftheworkmenappearedtobestrongmen，anditishardlynecessarytoaddthattheywerealllabouringquietly，then。Aftertwoo"clockintheday，theyareallowedtosing，acertainnumberatatime。ThehourstrikingwhileIwasthere，sometwentysangahymninparts，andsangitbynomeansill；pursuingtheirworkmeanwhile。AbellrangasIwasabouttoleave，andtheyallpouredforthintoabuildingontheoppositesideofthestreettodinner。IsaidseveraltimesthatIshouldliketoseethemattheirmeal；butasthegentlemantowhomImentionedthisdesireappearedtobesuddenlytakenratherdeaf，Ididnotpursuetherequest。OftheirappearanceIshallhavesomethingtosay，presently。

Onthefollowingday，Ivisitedaplantationorfarm，ofabouttwelvehundredacres，ontheoppositebankoftheriver。Hereagain，althoughIwentdownwiththeowneroftheestate，to"thequarter，"asthatpartofitinwhichtheslavesliveiscalled，I

wasnotinvitedtoenterintoanyoftheirhuts。AllIsawofthem，was，thattheywereverycrazy，wretchedcabins，neartowhichgroupsofhalf-nakedchildrenbaskedinthesun，orwallowedonthedustyground。ButIbelievethatthisgentlemanisaconsiderateandexcellentmaster，whoinheritedhisfiftyslaves，andisneitherabuyernorasellerofhumanstock；andIamsure，frommyownobservationandconviction，thatheisakind-hearted，worthyman。

Theplanter"shousewasanairy，rusticdwelling，thatbroughtDefoe"sdescriptionofsuchplacesstronglytomyrecollection。

Thedaywasverywarm，buttheblindsbeingallclosed，andthewindowsanddoorssetwideopen，ashadycoolnessrustledthroughtherooms，whichwasexquisitelyrefreshingaftertheglareandheatwithout。Beforethewindowswasanopenpiazza，where，inwhattheycallthehotweather-whateverthatmaybe-theyslinghammocks，anddrinkanddozeluxuriously。Idonotknowhowtheircoolrejectionsmaytastewithinthehammocks，but，havingexperience，Icanreportthat，outofthem，themoundsoficesandthebowlsofmint-julepandsherry-cobblertheymakeintheselatitudes，arerefreshmentsnevertobethoughtofafterwards，insummer，bythosewhowouldpreservecontentedminds。

Therearetwobridgesacrosstheriver:onebelongstotherailroad，andtheother，whichisaverycrazyaffair，istheprivatepropertyofsomeoldladyintheneighbourhood，wholeviestollsuponthetownspeople。Crossingthisbridge，onmywayback，Isawanoticepaintedonthegate，cautioningallpersonstodriveslowly:underapenalty，iftheoffenderwereawhiteman，offivedollars；ifanegro，fifteenstripes。

Thesamedecayandgloomthatoverhangthewaybywhichitisapproached，hoverabovethetownofRichmond。Thereareprettyvillasandcheerfulhousesinitsstreets，andNaturesmilesuponthecountryround；butjostlingitshandsomeresidences，likeslaveryitselfgoinghandinhandwithmanyloftyvirtues，aredeplorabletenements，fencesunrepaired，wallscrumblingintoruinousheaps。Hintinggloomilyatthingsbelowthesurface，these，andmanyothertokensofthesamedescription，forcethemselvesuponthenotice，andarerememberedwithdepressinginfluence，whenlivelierfeaturesareforgotten。