第5章

(stillinterrogatively)toeach。Thenheguessesthatyoudon"ttravelfasterinEngland；andonyourreplyingthatyoudo，says"Yes？"again(stillinterrogatively)，anditisquiteevident，don"tbelieveit。Afteralongpauseheremarks，partlytoyou，andpartlytotheknobonthetopofhisstick，that"Yankeesarereckonedtobeconsiderableofago-aheadpeopletoo；"uponwhichYOUsay"Yes，"andthenHEsays"Yes"again(affirmativelythistime)；anduponyourlookingoutofwindow，tellsyouthatbehindthathill，andsomethreemilesfromthenextstation，thereisaclevertowninasmartlo-ca-tion，whereheexpectsyouhaveconcludedtostop。Youranswerinthenegativenaturallyleadstomorequestionsinreferencetoyourintendedroute(alwayspronouncedrout)；andwhereveryouaregoing，youinvariablylearnthatyoucan"tgettherewithoutimmensedifficultyanddanger，andthatallthegreatsightsaresomewhereelse。

Ifaladytakeafancytoanymalepassenger"sseat，thegentlemanwhoaccompanieshergiveshimnoticeofthefact，andheimmediatelyvacatesitwithgreatpoliteness。Politicsaremuchdiscussed，soarebanks，soiscotton。QuietpeopleavoidthequestionofthePresidency，fortherewillbeanewelectioninthreeyearsandahalf，andpartyfeelingrunsveryhigh:thegreatconstitutionalfeatureofthisinstitutionbeing，thatdirectlytheacrimonyofthelastelectionisover，theacrimonyofthenextonebegins；whichisanunspeakablecomforttoallstrongpoliticiansandtrueloversoftheircountry:thatistosay，toninety-ninemenandboysoutofeveryninety-nineandaquarter。

Exceptwhenabranchroadjoinsthemainone，thereisseldommorethanonetrackofrails；sothattheroadisverynarrow，andtheview，wherethereisadeepcutting，bynomeansextensive。Whenthereisnot，thecharacterofthesceneryisalwaysthesame。

Mileaftermileofstuntedtrees:somehewndownbytheaxe，someblowndownbythewind，somehalffallenandrestingontheirneighbours，manymerelogshalfhiddenintheswamp，othersmoulderedawaytospongychips。Theverysoiloftheearthismadeupofminutefragmentssuchasthese；eachpoolofstagnantwaterhasitscrustofvegetablerottenness；oneverysidetherearetheboughs，andtrunks，andstumpsoftrees，ineverypossiblestageofdecay，decomposition，andneglect。Nowyouemergeforafewbriefminutesonanopencountry，glitteringwithsomebrightlakeorpool，broadasmanyanEnglishriver，butsosmallherethatitscarcelyhasaname；nowcatchhastyglimpsesofadistanttown，withitscleanwhitehousesandtheircoolpiazzas，itsprimNewEnglandchurchandschool-house；whenwhir-r-r-r!almostbeforeyouhaveseenthem，comesthesamedarkscreen:thestuntedtrees，thestumps，thelogs，thestagnantwater-allsolikethelastthatyouseemtohavebeentransportedbackagainbymagic。

Thetraincallsatstationsinthewoods，wherethewildimpossibilityofanybodyhavingthesmallestreasontogetout，isonlytobeequalledbytheapparentlydesperatehopelessnessoftherebeinganybodytogetin。Itrushesacrosstheturnpikeroad，wherethereisnogate，nopoliceman，nosignal:nothingbutaroughwoodenarch，onwhichispainted"WHENTHEBELLRINGS，LOOK

OUTFORTHELOCOMOTIVE。"Onitwhirlsheadlong，divesthroughthewoodsagain，emergesinthelight，clattersoverfrailarches，rumblesupontheheavyground，shootsbeneathawoodenbridgewhichinterceptsthelightforasecondlikeawink，suddenlyawakensalltheslumberingechoesinthemainstreetofalargetown，anddashesonhaphazard，pell-mell，neck-or-nothing，downthemiddleoftheroad。There-withmechanicsworkingattheirtrades，andpeopleleaningfromtheirdoorsandwindows，andboysflyingkitesandplayingmarbles，andmensmoking，andwomentalking，andchildrencrawling，andpigsburrowing，andunaccustomedhorsesplungingandrearing，closetotheveryrails-there-on，on，on-tearsthemaddragonofanenginewithitstrainofcars；

scatteringinalldirectionsashowerofburningsparksfromitswoodfire；screeching，hissing，yelling，panting；untilatlastthethirstymonsterstopsbeneathacoveredwaytodrink，thepeopleclusterround，andyouhavetimetobreatheagain。

IwasmetatthestationatLowellbyagentlemanintimatelyconnectedwiththemanagementofthefactoriesthere；andgladlyputtingmyselfunderhisguidance，droveoffatoncetothatquarterofthetowninwhichtheworks，theobjectofmyvisit，weresituated。Althoughonlyjustofage-forifmyrecollectionserveme，ithasbeenamanufacturingtownbarelyone-and-twentyyears-Lowellisalarge，populous，thrivingplace。Thoseindicationsofitsyouthwhichfirstattracttheeye，giveitaquaintnessandoddityofcharacterwhich，toavisitorfromtheoldcountry，isamusingenough。Itwasaverydirtywinter"sday，andnothinginthewholetownlookedoldtome，exceptthemud，whichinsomepartswasalmostknee-deep，andmighthavebeendepositedthere，onthesubsidingofthewatersaftertheDeluge。Inoneplace，therewasanewwoodenchurch，which，havingnosteeple，andbeingyetunpainted，lookedlikeanenormouspacking-casewithoutanydirectionuponit。Inanothertherewasalargehotel，whosewallsandcolonnadesweresocrisp，andthin，andslight，thatithadexactlytheappearanceofbeingbuiltwithcards。Iwascarefulnottodrawmybreathaswepassed，andtrembledwhenIsawaworkmancomeoutupontheroof，lestwithonethoughtlessstampofhisfootheshouldcrushthestructurebeneathhim，andbringitrattlingdown。Theveryriverthatmovesthemachineryinthemills(fortheyareallworkedbywaterpower)，seemstoacquireanewcharacterfromthefreshbuildingsofbrightredbrickandpaintedwoodamongwhichittakesitscourse；andtobeaslight-

headed，thoughtless，andbriskayoungriver，initsmurmuringsandtumblings，asonewoulddesiretosee。Onewouldswearthatevery"Bakery，""Grocery，"and"Bookbindery，"andotherkindofstore，tookitsshuttersdownforthefirsttime，andstartedinbusinessyesterday。Thegoldenpestlesandmortarsfixedassignsuponthesun-blindframesoutsidetheDruggists"，appeartohavebeenjustturnedoutoftheUnitedStates"Mint；andwhenIsawababyofsomeweekortendaysoldinawoman"sarmsatastreetcorner，I

foundmyselfunconsciouslywonderingwhereitcamefrom:neversupposingforaninstantthatitcouldhavebeenborninsuchayoungtownasthat。

ThereareseveralfactoriesinLowell，eachofwhichbelongstowhatweshouldtermaCompanyofProprietors，butwhattheycallinAmericaaCorporation。Iwentoverseveralofthese；suchasawoollenfactory，acarpetfactory，andacottonfactory:examinedthemineverypart；andsawthemintheirordinaryworkingaspect，withnopreparationofanykind，ordeparturefromtheirordinaryeverydayproceedings。ImayaddthatIamwellacquaintedwithourmanufacturingtownsinEngland，andhavevisitedmanymillsinManchesterandelsewhereinthesamemanner。

Ihappenedtoarriveatthefirstfactoryjustasthedinnerhourwasover，andthegirlswerereturningtotheirwork；indeedthestairsofthemillwerethrongedwiththemasIascended。Theywereallwelldressed，butnottomythinkingabovetheircondition；forIliketoseethehumblerclassesofsocietycarefuloftheirdressandappearance，andeven，iftheyplease，decoratedwithsuchlittletrinketsascomewithinthecompassoftheirmeans。Supposingitconfinedwithinreasonablelimits，Iwouldalwaysencouragethiskindofpride，asaworthyelementofself-

respect，inanypersonIemployed；andshouldnomorebedeterredfromdoingso，becausesomewretchedfemalereferredherfalltoaloveofdress，thanIwouldallowmyconstructionoftherealintentandmeaningoftheSabbathtobeinfluencedbyanywarningtothewell-disposed，foundedonhisbackslidingsonthatparticularday，whichmightemanatefromtheratherdoubtfulauthorityofamurdererinNewgate。

Thesegirls，asIhavesaid，wereallwelldressed:andthatphrasenecessarilyincludesextremecleanliness。Theyhadserviceablebonnets，goodwarmcloaks，andshawls；andwerenotaboveclogsandpattens。Moreover，therewereplacesinthemillinwhichtheycoulddepositthesethingswithoutinjury；andtherewereconveniencesforwashing。Theywerehealthyinappearance，manyofthemremarkablyso，andhadthemannersanddeportmentofyoungwomen:notofdegradedbrutesofburden。IfIhadseeninoneofthosemills(butIdidnot，thoughIlookedforsomethingofthiskindwithasharpeye)，themostlisping，mincing，affected，andridiculousyoungcreaturethatmyimaginationcouldsuggest，I

shouldhavethoughtofthecareless，moping，slatternly，degraded，dullreverse(IHAVEseenthat)，andshouldhavebeenstillwellpleasedtolookuponher。

Theroomsinwhichtheyworked，wereaswellorderedasthemselves。

Inthewindowsofsome，thereweregreenplants，whichweretrainedtoshadetheglass；inall，therewasasmuchfreshair，cleanliness，andcomfort，asthenatureoftheoccupationwouldpossiblyadmitof。Outofsolargeanumberoffemales，manyofwhomwereonlythenjustverginguponwomanhood，itmaybereasonablysupposedthatsomeweredelicateandfragileinappearance:nodoubttherewere。ButIsolemnlydeclare，thatfromallthecrowdIsawinthedifferentfactoriesthatday，I

cannotrecallorseparateoneyoungfacethatgavemeapainfulimpression；notoneyounggirlwhom，assumingittobeamatterofnecessitythatsheshouldgainherdailybreadbythelabourofherhands，IwouldhaveremovedfromthoseworksifIhadhadthepower。

Theyresideinvariousboarding-housesnearathand。Theownersofthemillsareparticularlycarefultoallownopersonstoenteruponthepossessionofthesehouses，whosecharactershavenotundergonethemostsearchingandthoroughinquiry。Anycomplaintthatismadeagainstthem，bytheboarders，orbyanyoneelse，isfullyinvestigated；andifgoodgroundofcomplaintbeshowntoexistagainstthem，theyareremoved，andtheiroccupationishandedovertosomemoredeservingperson。Thereareafewchildrenemployedinthesefactories，butnotmany。ThelawsoftheStateforbidtheirworkingmorethanninemonthsintheyear，andrequirethattheybeeducatedduringtheotherthree。ForthispurposethereareschoolsinLowell；andtherearechurchesandchapelsofvariouspersuasions，inwhichtheyoungwomenmayobservethatformofworshipinwhichtheyhavebeeneducated。

Atsomedistancefromthefactories，andonthehighestandpleasantestgroundintheneighbourhood，standstheirhospital，orboarding-houseforthesick:itisthebesthouseinthoseparts，andwasbuiltbyaneminentmerchantforhisownresidence。LikethatinstitutionatBoston，whichIhavebeforedescribed，itisnotparcelledoutintowards，butisdividedintoconvenientchambers，eachofwhichhasallthecomfortsofaverycomfortablehome。Theprincipalmedicalattendantresidesunderthesameroof；

andwerethepatientsmembersofhisownfamily，theycouldnotbebettercaredfor，orattendedwithgreatergentlenessandconsideration。Theweeklychargeinthisestablishmentforeachfemalepatientisthreedollars，ortwelveshillingsEnglish；butnogirlemployedbyanyofthecorporationsiseverexcludedforwantofthemeansofpayment。Thattheydonotveryoftenwantthemeans，maybegatheredfromthefact，thatinJuly，1841，nofewerthanninehundredandseventy-eightofthesegirlsweredepositorsintheLowellSavingsBank:theamountofwhosejointsavingswasestimatedatonehundredthousanddollars，ortwentythousandEnglishpounds。

Iamnowgoingtostatethreefacts，whichwillstartlealargeclassofreadersonthissideoftheAtlantic，verymuch。

Firstly，thereisajoint-stockpianoinagreatmanyoftheboarding-houses。Secondly，nearlyalltheseyoungladiessubscribetocirculatinglibraries。Thirdly，theyhavegotupamongthemselvesaperiodicalcalledTHELOWELLOFFERING，"Arepositoryoforiginalarticles，writtenexclusivelybyfemalesactivelyemployedinthemills，"-whichisdulyprinted，published，andsold；andwhereofIbroughtawayfromLowellfourhundredgoodsolidpages，whichIhavereadfrombeginningtoend。

Thelargeclassofreaders，startledbythesefacts，willexclaim，withonevoice，"Howverypreposterous!"Onmydeferentiallyinquiringwhy，theywillanswer，"Thesethingsareabovetheirstation。"Inreplytothatobjection，Iwouldbegtoaskwhattheirstationis。

Itistheirstationtowork。AndtheyDOwork。Theylabourinthesemills，uponanaverage，twelvehoursaday，whichisunquestionablywork，andprettytightworktoo。Perhapsitisabovetheirstationtoindulgeinsuchamusements，onanyterms。

ArewequitesurethatweinEnglandhavenotformedourideasofthe"station"ofworkingpeople，fromaccustomingourselvestothecontemplationofthatclassastheyare，andnotastheymightbe？

Ithinkthatifweexamineourownfeelings，weshallfindthatthepianos，andthecirculatinglibraries，andeventheLowellOffering，startleusbytheirnovelty，andnotbytheirbearinguponanyabstractquestionofrightorwrong。

Formyself，Iknownostationinwhich，theoccupationofto-daycheerfullydoneandtheoccupationofto-morrowcheerfullylookedto，anyoneofthesepursuitsisnotmosthumanisingandlaudable。

Iknownostationwhichisrenderedmoreendurabletothepersoninit，ormoresafetothepersonoutofit，byhavingignoranceforitsassociate。Iknownostationwhichhasarighttomonopolisethemeansofmutualinstruction，improvement，andrationalentertainment；orwhichhasevercontinuedtobeastationverylong，afterseekingtodoso。

OfthemeritsoftheLowellOfferingasaliteraryproduction，I

willonlyobserve，puttingentirelyoutofsightthefactofthearticleshavingbeenwrittenbythesegirlsafterthearduouslaboursoftheday，thatitwillcompareadvantageouslywithagreatmanyEnglishAnnuals。ItispleasanttofindthatmanyofitsTalesareoftheMillsandofthosewhoworkinthem；thattheyinculcatehabitsofself-denialandcontentment，andteachgooddoctrinesofenlargedbenevolence。Astrongfeelingforthebeautiesofnature，asdisplayedinthesolitudesthewritershaveleftathome，breathesthroughitspageslikewholesomevillageair；andthoughacirculatinglibraryisafavourableschoolforthestudyofsuchtopics，ithasveryscantallusiontofineclothes，finemarriages，finehouses，orfinelife。Somepersonsmightobjecttothepapersbeingsignedoccasionallywithratherfinenames，butthisisanAmericanfashion。OneoftheprovincesofthestatelegislatureofMassachusettsistoalteruglynamesintoprettyones，asthechildrenimproveuponthetastesoftheirparents。Thesechangescostinglittleornothing，scoresofMaryAnnesaresolemnlyconvertedintoBevelinaseverysession。

ItissaidthatontheoccasionofavisitfromGeneralJacksonorGeneralHarrisontothistown(Iforgetwhich，butitisnottothepurpose)，hewalkedthroughthreemilesandahalfoftheseyoungladiesalldressedoutwithparasolsandsilkstockings。ButasI

amnotawarethatanyworseconsequenceensued，thanasuddenlooking-upofalltheparasolsandsilkstockingsinthemarket；

andperhapsthebankruptcyofsomespeculativeNewEnglanderwhoboughtthemallupatanyprice，inexpectationofademandthatnevercame；Isetnogreatstorebythecircumstance。

InthisbriefaccountofLowell，andinadequateexpressionofthegratificationityieldedme，andcannotfailtoaffordtoanyforeignertowhomtheconditionofsuchpeopleathomeisasubjectofinterestandanxiousspeculation，Ihavecarefullyabstainedfromdrawingacomparisonbetweenthesefactoriesandthoseofourownland。Manyofthecircumstanceswhosestronginfluencehasbeenatworkforyearsinourmanufacturingtownshavenotarisenhere；andthereisnomanufacturingpopulationinLowell，sotospeak:forthesegirls(oftenthedaughtersofsmallfarmers)comefromotherStates，remainafewyearsinthemills，andthengohomeforgood。

Thecontrastwouldbeastrongone，foritwouldbebetweentheGoodandEvil，thelivinglightanddeepestshadow。Iabstainfromit，becauseIdeemitjusttodoso。ButIonlythemoreearnestlyadjureallthosewhoseeyesmayrestonthesepages，topauseandreflectuponthedifferencebetweenthistownandthosegreathauntsofdesperatemisery:tocalltomind，iftheycaninthemidstofpartystrifeandsquabble，theeffortsthatmustbemadetopurgethemoftheirsufferinganddanger:andlast，andforemost，torememberhowthepreciousTimeisrushingby。

Ireturnedatnightbythesamerailroadandinthesamekindofcar。Oneofthepassengersbeingexceedinglyanxioustoexpoundatgreatlengthtomycompanion(nottome，ofcourse)thetrueprinciplesonwhichbooksoftravelinAmericashouldbewrittenbyEnglishmen，Ifeignedtofallasleep。Butglancingallthewayoutatwindowfromthecornersofmyeyes，Ifoundabundanceofentertainmentfortherestoftherideinwatchingtheeffectsofthewoodfire，whichhadbeeninvisibleinthemorningbutwerenowbroughtoutinfullreliefbythedarkness:forweweretravellinginawhirlwindofbrightsparks，whichshoweredaboutuslikeastormoffierysnow。

CHAPTERV-WORCESTER。THECONNECTICUTRIVER。HARTFORD。NEW

HAVEN。TONEWYORK

LEAVINGBostonontheafternoonofSaturdaythefifthofFebruary，weproceededbyanotherrailroadtoWorcester:aprettyNewEnglandtown，wherewehadarrangedtoremainunderthehospitableroofoftheGovernoroftheState，untilMondaymorning。

ThesetownsandcitiesofNewEngland(manyofwhichwouldbevillagesinOldEngland)，areasfavourablespecimensofruralAmerica，astheirpeopleareofruralAmericans。Thewell-trimmedlawnsandgreenmeadowsofhomearenotthere；andthegrass，comparedwithourornamentalplotsandpastures，isrank，andrough，andwild:butdelicateslopesofland，gently-swellinghills，woodedvalleys，andslenderstreams，abound。Everylittlecolonyofhouseshasitschurchandschool-housepeepingfromamongthewhiteroofsandshadytrees；everyhouseisthewhitestofthewhite；everyVenetianblindthegreenestofthegreen；everyfineday"sskythebluestoftheblue。AsharpdrywindandaslightfrosthadsohardenedtheroadswhenwealightedatWorcester，thattheirfurrowedtrackswerelikeridgesofgranite。Therewastheusualaspectofnewnessoneveryobject，ofcourse。Allthebuildingslookedasiftheyhadbeenbuiltandpaintedthatmorning，andcouldbetakendownonMondaywithverylittletrouble。Inthekeeneveningair，everysharpoutlinelookedahundredtimessharperthanever。ThecleancardboardcolonnadeshadnomoreperspectivethanaChinesebridgeonatea-cup，andappearedequallywellcalculatedforuse。Therazor-likeedgesofthedetachedcottagesseemedtocuttheverywindasitwhistledagainstthem，andtosenditsmartingonitswaywithashrillercrythanbefore。Thoseslightly-builtwoodendwellingsbehindwhichthesunwassettingwithabrilliantlustre，couldbesolookedthroughandthrough，thattheideaofanyinhabitantbeingabletohidehimselffromthepublicgaze，ortohaveanysecretsfromthepubliceye，wasnotentertainableforamoment。Evenwhereablazingfireshonethroughtheuncurtainedwindowsofsomedistanthouse，ithadtheairofbeingnewlylighted，andoflackingwarmth；andinsteadofawakeningthoughtsofasnugchamber，brightwithfacesthatfirstsawthelightroundthatsamehearth，andruddywithwarmhangings，itcameupononesuggestiveofthesmellofnewmortaranddampwalls。

SoIthought，atleast，thatevening。Nextmorningwhenthesunwasshiningbrightly，andtheclearchurchbellswereringing，andsedatepeopleintheirbestclothesenlivenedthepathwaynearathandanddottedthedistantthreadofroad，therewasapleasantSabbathpeacefulnessoneverything，whichitwasgoodtofeel。Itwouldhavebeenthebetterforanoldchurch；betterstillforsomeoldgraves；butasitwas，awholesomereposeandtranquillitypervadedthescene，whichaftertherestlessoceanandthehurriedcity，hadadoublygratefulinfluenceonthespirits。

Wewentonnextmorning，stillbyrailroad，toSpringfield。FromthatplacetoHartford，whitherwewerebound，isadistanceofonlyfive-and-twentymiles，butatthattimeoftheyeartheroadsweresobadthatthejourneywouldprobablyhaveoccupiedtenortwelvehours。Fortunately，however，thewinterhavingbeenunusuallymild，theConnecticutRiverwas"open，"or，inotherwords，notfrozen。Thecaptainofasmallsteamboatwasgoingtomakehisfirsttripfortheseasonthatday(thesecondFebruarytrip，Ibelieve，withinthememoryofman)，andonlywaitedforustogoonboard。Accordingly，wewentonboard，withaslittledelayasmightbe。Hewasasgoodashisword，andstarteddirectly。

Itcertainlywasnotcalledasmallsteamboatwithoutreason。I

omittedtoaskthequestion，butIshouldthinkitmusthavebeenofabouthalfaponypower。Mr。Paap，thecelebratedDwarf，mighthavelivedanddiedhappilyinthecabin，whichwasfittedwithcommonsash-windowslikeanordinarydwelling-house。Thesewindowshadbright-redcurtains，too，hungonslackstringsacrossthelowerpanes；sothatitlookedliketheparlourofaLilliputianpublic-house，whichhadgotafloatinafloodorsomeotherwateraccident，andwasdriftingnobodyknewwhere。Buteveninthischambertherewasarocking-chair。Itwouldbeimpossibletogetonanywhere，inAmerica，withoutarocking-chair。Iamafraidtotellhowmanyfeetshortthisvesselwas，orhowmanyfeetnarrow:

toapplythewordslengthandwidthtosuchmeasurementwouldbeacontradictioninterms。ButImaystatethatweallkeptthemiddleofthedeck，lesttheboatshouldunexpectedlytipover；andthatthemachinery，bysomesurprisingprocessofcondensation，workedbetweenitandthekeel:thewholeformingawarmsandwich，aboutthreefeetthick。

ItrainedalldayasIoncethoughtitneverdidrainanywhere，butintheHighlandsofScotland。Theriverwasfulloffloatingblocksofice，whichwereconstantlycrunchingandcrackingunderus；andthedepthofwater，inthecoursewetooktoavoidthelargermasses，carrieddownthemiddleoftheriverbythecurrent，didnotexceedafewinches。Nevertheless，wemovedonward，dexterously；andbeingwellwrappedup，badedefiancetotheweather，andenjoyedthejourney。TheConnecticutRiverisafinestream；andthebanksinsummer-timeare，Ihavenodoubt，beautiful；atallevents，Iwastoldsobyayoungladyinthecabin；andsheshouldbeajudgeofbeauty，ifthepossessionofaqualityincludetheappreciationofit，foramorebeautifulcreatureIneverlookedupon。

Aftertwohoursandahalfofthisoddtravelling(includingastoppageatasmalltown，whereweweresalutedbyagunconsiderablybiggerthanourownchimney)，wereachedHartford，andstraightwayrepairedtoanextremelycomfortablehotel:except，asusual，inthearticleofbedrooms，which，inalmosteveryplacewevisited，wereveryconducivetoearlyrising。

Wetarriedhere，fourdays。Thetownisbeautifullysituatedinabasinofgreenhills；thesoilisrich，well-wooded，andcarefullyimproved。ItistheseatofthelocallegislatureofConnecticut，whichsagebodyenacted，inbygonetimes，therenownedcodeof"BlueLaws，"invirtuewhereof，amongotherenlightenedprovisions，anycitizenwhocouldbeprovedtohavekissedhiswifeonSunday，waspunishable，Ibelieve，withthestocks。ToomuchoftheoldPuritanspiritexistsinthesepartstothepresenthour；butitsinfluencehasnottended，thatIknow，tomakethepeoplelesshardintheirbargains，ormoreequalintheirdealings。AsIneverheardofitsworkingthateffectanywhereelse，Iinferthatitneverwill，here。Indeed，Iamaccustomed，withreferencetogreatprofessionsandseverefaces，tojudgeofthegoodsoftheotherworldprettymuchasIjudgeofthegoodsofthis；andwheneverI

seeadealerinsuchcommoditieswithtoogreatadisplayoftheminhiswindow，Idoubtthequalityofthearticlewithin。

InHartfordstandsthefamousoakinwhichthecharterofKingCharleswashidden。Itisnowinclosedinagentleman"sgarden。

IntheStateHouseisthecharteritself。Ifoundthecourtsoflawhere，justthesameasatBoston；thepublicinstitutionsalmostasgood。TheInsaneAsylumisadmirablyconducted，andsoistheInstitutionfortheDeafandDumb。

Iverymuchquestionedwithinmyself，asIwalkedthroughtheInsaneAsylum，whetherIshouldhaveknowntheattendantsfromthepatients，butforthefewwordswhichpassedbetweentheformer，andtheDoctor，inreferencetothepersonsundertheircharge。OfcourseIlimitthisremarkmerelytotheirlooks；fortheconversationofthemadpeoplewasmadenough。

Therewasonelittle，primoldlady，ofverysmilingandgood-

humouredappearance，whocamesidlinguptomefromtheendofalongpassage，andwithacurtseyofinexpressiblecondescension，propoundedthisunaccountableinquiry:

"DoesPontefractstillflourish，sir，uponthesoilofEngland？"

"Hedoes，ma"am，"Irejoined。

"Whenyoulastsawhim，sir，hewas-"

"Well，ma"am，"saidI，"extremelywell。Hebeggedmetopresenthiscompliments。Ineversawhimlookingbetter。"

Atthis，theoldladywasverymuchdelighted。Afterglancingatmeforamoment，asiftobequitesurethatIwasseriousinmyrespectfulair，shesidledbacksomepaces；sidledforwardagain；

madeasuddenskip(atwhichIprecipitatelyretreatedasteportwo)；andsaid:

"Iamanantediluvian，sir。"

Ithoughtthebestthingtosaywas，thatIhadsuspectedasmuchfromthefirst。ThereforeIsaidso。

"Itisanextremelyproudandpleasantthing，sir，tobeanantediluvian，"saidtheoldlady。

"Ishouldthinkitwas，ma"am，"Irejoined。

Theoldladykissedherhand，gaveanotherskip，smirkedandsidleddownthegalleryinamostextraordinarymanner，andambledgracefullyintoherownbed-chamber。

Inanotherpartofthebuilding，therewasamalepatientinbed；

verymuchflushedandheated。

"Well，"saidhe，startingup，andpullingoffhisnight-cap:"It"sallsettledatlast。IhavearrangeditwithQueenVictoria。"

"Arrangedwhat？"askedtheDoctor。

"Why，thatbusiness，"passinghishandwearilyacrosshisforehead，"aboutthesiegeofNewYork。"

"Oh!"saidI，likeamansuddenlyenlightened。Forhelookedatmeforananswer。

"Yes。EveryhousewithoutasignalwillbefireduponbytheBritishtroops。Noharmwillbedonetotheothers。Noharmatall。Thosethatwanttobesafe，musthoistflags。That"sallthey"llhavetodo。Theymusthoistflags。"

Evenwhilehewasspeakingheseemed，Ithought，tohavesomefaintideathathistalkwasincoherent。Directlyhehadsaidthesewords，helaydownagain；gaveakindofagroan；andcoveredhishotheadwiththeblankets。

Therewasanother:ayoungman，whosemadnesswasloveandmusic。

Afterplayingontheaccordionamarchhehadcomposed，hewasveryanxiousthatIshouldwalkintohischamber，whichIimmediatelydid。

Bywayofbeingveryknowing，andhumouringhimtothetopofhisbent，Iwenttothewindow，whichcommandedabeautifulprospect，andremarked，withanaddressuponwhichIgreatlyplumedmyself:

"Whatadeliciouscountryyouhaveabouttheselodgingsofyours!"

"Poh!"saidhe，movinghisfingerscarelesslyoverthenotesofhisinstrument:"WELLENOUGHFORSUCHANINSTITUTIONASTHIS!"

Idon"tthinkIwaseversotakenabackinallmylife。

"Icomeherejustforawhim，"hesaidcoolly。"That"sall。"

"Oh!That"sall!"saidI。

"Yes。That"sall。TheDoctor"sasmartman。Hequiteentersintoit。It"sajokeofmine。Ilikeitforatime。Youneedn"tmentionit，butIthinkIshallgooutnextTuesday!"

IassuredhimthatIwouldconsiderourinterviewperfectlyconfidential；andrejoinedtheDoctor。Aswewerepassingthroughagalleryonourwayout，awell-dressedlady，ofquietandcomposedmanners，cameup，andprofferingaslipofpaperandapen，beggedthatIwouldobligeherwithanautograph，Icomplied，andweparted。

"IthinkIrememberhavinghadafewinterviewslikethat，withladiesoutofdoors。IhopeSHEisnotmad？"

"Yes。"

"Onwhatsubject？Autographs？"

"No。Shehearsvoicesintheair。"

"Well!"thoughtI，"itwouldbewellifwecouldshutupafewfalseprophetsoftheselatertimes，whohaveprofessedtodothesame；andIshouldliketotrytheexperimentonaMormonistortwotobeginwith。"

Inthisplace，thereisthebestjailforuntriedoffendersintheworld。Thereisalsoaverywell-orderedStateprison，arrangeduponthesameplanasthatatBoston，exceptthathere，thereisalwaysasentryonthewallwithaloadedgun。Itcontainedatthattimeabouttwohundredprisoners。Aspotwasshownmeinthesleepingward，whereawatchmanwasmurderedsomeyearssinceinthedeadofnight，inadesperateattempttoescape，madebyaprisonerwhohadbrokenfromhiscell。Awoman，too，waspointedouttome，who，forthemurderofherhusband，hadbeenacloseprisonerforsixteenyears。

"Doyouthink，"Iaskedofmyconductor，"thataftersoverylonganimprisonment，shehasanythoughtorhopeofeverregainingherliberty？"

"Ohdearyes，"heanswered。"Tobesureshehas。"

"Shehasnochanceofobtainingit，Isuppose？"

"Well，Idon"tknow:"which，by-the-bye，isanationalanswer。

"Herfriendsmistrusther。"

"WhathaveTHEYtodowithit？"Inaturallyinquired。

"Well，theywon"tpetition。"

"Butiftheydid，theycouldn"tgetherout，Isuppose？"

"Well，notthefirsttime，perhaps，noryetthesecond，buttiringandwearyingforafewyearsmightdoit。"

"Doesthateverdoit？"

"Whyyes，that"lldoitsometimes。Politicalfriends"lldoitsometimes。It"sprettyoftendone，onewayoranother。"

IshallalwaysentertainaverypleasantandgratefulrecollectionofHartford。Itisalovelyplace，andIhadmanyfriendsthere，whomIcanneverrememberwithindifference。WeleftitwithnolittleregretontheeveningofFridaythe11th，andtravelledthatnightbyrailroadtoNewHaven。Upontheway，theguardandIwereformallyintroducedtoeachother(asweusuallywereonsuchoccasions)，andexchangedavarietyofsmall-talk。WereachedNewHavenatabouteighto"clock，afterajourneyofthreehours，andputupforthenightatthebestinn。

NewHaven，knownalsoastheCityofElms，isafinetown。Manyofitsstreets(asitsALIASsufficientlyimports)areplantedwithrowsofgrandoldelm-trees；andthesamenaturalornamentssurroundYaleCollege，anestablishmentofconsiderableeminenceandreputation。ThevariousdepartmentsofthisInstitutionareerectedinakindofparkorcommoninthemiddleofthetown，wheretheyaredimlyvisibleamongtheshadowingtrees。TheeffectisverylikethatofanoldcathedralyardinEngland；andwhentheirbranchesareinfullleaf，mustbeextremelypicturesque。

Eveninthewintertime，thesegroupsofwell-growntrees，clusteringamongthebusystreetsandhousesofathrivingcity，haveaveryquaintappearance:seemingtobringaboutakindofcompromisebetweentownandcountry；asifeachhadmettheotherhalf-way，andshakenhandsuponit；whichisatoncenovelandpleasant。

Afteranight"srest，weroseearly，andingoodtimewentdowntothewharf，andonboardthepacketNewYorkFORNewYork。ThiswasthefirstAmericansteamboatofanysizethatIhadseen；andcertainlytoanEnglisheyeitwasinfinitelylesslikeasteamboatthanahugefloatingbath。Icouldhardlypersuademyself，indeed，butthatthebathingestablishmentoffWestminsterBridge，whichI

leftababy，hadsuddenlygrowntoanenormoussize；runawayfromhome；andsetupinforeignpartsasasteamer。BeinginAmerica，too，whichourvagabondsdosoparticularlyfavour，itseemedthemoreprobable。

Thegreatdifferenceinappearancebetweenthesepacketsandours，is，thatthereissomuchofthemoutofthewater:themain-deckbeingenclosedonallsides，andfilledwithcasksandgoods，likeanysecondorthirdfloorinastackofwarehouses；andthepromenadeorhurricane-deckbeinga-topofthatagain。Apartofthemachineryisalwaysabovethisdeck；wheretheconnecting-rod，inastrongandloftyframe，isseenworkingawaylikeanirontop-

sawyer。Thereisseldomanymastortackle:nothingaloftbuttwotallblackchimneys。Themanatthehelmisshutupinalittlehouseintheforepartoftheboat(thewheelbeingconnectedwiththerudderbyironchains，workingthewholelengthofthedeck)；

andthepassengers，unlesstheweatherbeveryfineindeed，usuallycongregatebelow。Directlyyouhaveleftthewharf，allthelife，andstir，andbustleofapacketcease。Youwonderforalongtimehowshegoeson，forthereseemstobenobodyinchargeofher；andwhenanotherofthesedullmachinescomessplashingby，youfeelquiteindignantwithit，asasullencumbrous，ungraceful，unshiplikeleviathan:quiteforgettingthatthevesselyouareonboardof，isitsverycounterpart。

Thereisalwaysaclerk"sofficeonthelowerdeck，whereyoupayyourfare；aladies"cabin；baggageandstowagerooms；engineer"sroom；andinshortagreatvarietyofperplexitieswhichrenderthediscoveryofthegentlemen"scabin，amatterofsomedifficulty。

Itoftenoccupiesthewholelengthoftheboat(asitdidinthiscase)，andhasthreeorfourtiersofberthsoneachside。WhenI

firstdescendedintothecabinoftheNewYork，itlooked，inmyunaccustomedeyes，aboutaslongastheBurlingtonArcade。

TheSoundwhichhastobecrossedonthispassage，isnotalwaysaverysafeorpleasantnavigation，andhasbeenthesceneofsomeunfortunateaccidents。Itwasawetmorning，andverymisty，andwesoonlostsightofland。Thedaywascalm，however，andbrightenedtowardsnoon。Afterexhausting(withgoodhelpfromafriend)thelarder，andthestockofbottledbeer，Ilaydowntosleep；beingverymuchtiredwiththefatiguesofyesterday。ButI

wokefrommynapintimetohurryup，andseeHellGate，theHog"sBack，theFryingPan，andothernotoriouslocalities，attractivetoallreadersoffamousDiedrichKnickerbocker"sHistory。Wewerenowinanarrowchannel，withslopingbanksoneitherside，besprinkledwithpleasantvillas，andmaderefreshingtothesightbyturfandtrees。Soonweshotinquicksuccession，pastalight-

house；amadhouse(howthelunaticsflunguptheircapsandroaredinsympathywiththeheadlongengineandthedrivingtide!)；ajail；andotherbuildings:andsoemergedintoanoblebay，whosewaterssparkledinthenowcloudlesssunshinelikeNature"seyesturneduptoHeaven。

Thentherelaystretchedoutbeforeus，totheright，confusedheapsofbuildings，withhereandthereaspireorsteeple，lookingdownupontheherdbelow；andhereandthere，again，acloudoflazysmoke；andintheforegroundaforestofships"masts，cheerywithflappingsailsandwavingflags。Crossingfromamongthemtotheoppositeshore，weresteamferry-boatsladenwithpeople，coaches，horses，waggons，baskets，boxes:crossedandrecrossedbyotherferry-boats:alltravellingtoandfro:andneveridle。

StatelyamongtheserestlessInsects，weretwoorthreelargeships，movingwithslowmajesticpace，ascreaturesofaprouderkind，disdainfuloftheirpunyjourneys，andmakingforthebroadsea。Beyond，wereshiningheights，andislandsintheglancingriver，andadistancescarcelylessblueandbrightthantheskyitseemedtomeet。Thecity"shumandbuzz，theclinkingofcapstans，theringingofbells，thebarkingofdogs，theclatteringofwheels，tingledinthelisteningear。Allofwhichlifeandstir，comingacrossthestirringwater，caughtnewlifeandanimationfromitsfreecompanionship；and，sympathisingwithitsbuoyantspirits，glistenedasitseemedinsportuponitssurface，andhemmedthevesselround，andplashedthewaterhighabouthersides，and，floatinghergallantlyintothedock，flewoffagaintowelcomeothercomers，andspeedbeforethemtothebusyport。

CHAPTERVI-NEWYORK

THEbeautifulmetropolisofAmericaisbynomeanssocleanacityasBoston，butmanyofitsstreetshavethesamecharacteristics；

exceptthatthehousesarenotquitesofresh-coloured，thesign-

boardsarenotquitesogaudy，thegildedlettersnotquitesogolden，thebricksnotquitesored，thestonenotquitesowhite，theblindsandarearailingsnotquitesogreen，theknobsandplatesuponthestreetdoorsnotquitesobrightandtwinkling。

Therearemanyby-streets，almostasneutralincleancolours，andpositiveindirtyones，asby-streetsinLondon；andthereisonequarter，commonlycalledtheFivePoints，which，inrespectoffilthandwretchedness，maybesafelybackedagainstSevenDials，oranyotherpartoffamedSt。Giles"s。

Thegreatpromenadeandthoroughfare，asmostpeopleknow，isBroadway；awideandbustlingstreet，which，fromtheBatteryGardenstoitsoppositeterminationinacountryroad，maybefourmileslong。ShallwesitdowninanupperflooroftheCarltonHouseHotel(situatedinthebestpartofthismainarteryofNewYork)，andwhenwearetiredoflookingdownuponthelifebelow，sallyfortharm-in-arm，andminglewiththestream？

Warmweather!Thesunstrikesuponourheadsatthisopenwindow，asthoughitsrayswereconcentratedthroughaburning-glass；butthedayisinitszenith，andtheseasonanunusualone。WasthereeversuchasunnystreetasthisBroadway!Thepavementstonesarepolishedwiththetreadoffeetuntiltheyshineagain；theredbricksofthehousesmightbeyetinthedry，hotkilns；andtheroofsofthoseomnibuseslookasthough，ifwaterwerepouredonthem，theywouldhissandsmoke，andsmelllikehalf-quenchedfires。Nostintofomnibuseshere!Half-a-dozenhavegonebywithinasmanyminutes。Plentyofhackneycabsandcoachestoo；

gigs，phaetons，large-wheeledtilburies，andprivatecarriages-

ratherofaclumsymake，andnotverydifferentfromthepublicvehicles，butbuiltfortheheavyroadsbeyondthecitypavement。

Negrocoachmenandwhite；instrawhats，blackhats，whitehats，glazedcaps，furcaps；incoatsofdrab，black，brown，green，blue，nankeen，stripedjeanandlinen；andthere，inthatoneinstance(lookwhileitpasses，oritwillbetoolate)，insuitsoflivery。

Somesouthernrepublicanthat，whoputshisblacksinuniform，andswellswithSultanpompandpower。Yonder，wherethatphaetonwiththewell-clippedpairofgrayshasstopped-standingattheirheadsnow-isaYorkshiregroom，whohasnotbeenverylongintheseparts，andlookssorrowfullyroundforacompanionpairoftop-boots，whichhemaytraversethecityhalfayearwithoutmeeting。Heavensavetheladies，howtheydress!Wehaveseenmorecoloursinthesetenminutes，thanweshouldhaveseenelsewhere，inasmanydays。Whatvariousparasols!whatrainbowsilksandsatins!whatpinkingofthinstockings，andpinchingofthinshoes，andflutteringofribbonsandsilktassels，anddisplayofrichcloakswithgaudyhoodsandlinings!Theyounggentlemenarefond，yousee，ofturningdowntheirshirt-collarsandcultivatingtheirwhiskers，especiallyunderthechin；buttheycannotapproachtheladiesintheirdressorbearing，being，tosaythetruth，humanityofquiteanothersort。Byronsofthedeskandcounter，passon，andletusseewhatkindofmenthosearebehindye:thosetwolabourersinholidayclothes，ofwhomonecarriesinhishandacrumpledscrapofpaperfromwhichhetriestospelloutahardname，whiletheotherlooksaboutforitonallthedoorsandwindows。

Irishmenboth!Youmightknowthem，iftheyweremasked，bytheirlong-tailedbluecoatsandbrightbuttons，andtheirdrabtrousers，whichtheywearlikemenwellusedtoworkingdresses，whoareeasyinnoothers。Itwouldbehardtokeepyourmodelrepublicsgoing，withoutthecountrymenandcountrywomenofthosetwolabourers。

Forwhoelsewoulddig，anddelve，anddrudge，anddodomesticwork，andmakecanalsandroads，andexecutegreatlinesofInternalImprovement!Irishmenboth，andsorelypuzzledtoo，tofindoutwhattheyseek。Letusgodown，andhelpthem，fortheloveofhome，andthatspiritoflibertywhichadmitsofhonestservicetohonestmen，andhonestworkforhonestbread，nomatterwhatitbe。

That"swell!Wehavegotattherightaddressatlast，thoughitiswritteninstrangecharacterstruly，andmighthavebeenscrawledwiththeblunthandleofthespadethewriterbetterknowstheuseof，thanapen。Theirwayliesyonder，butwhatbusinesstakesthemthere？Theycarrysavings:tohoardup？No。Theyarebrothers，thosemen。Onecrossedtheseaalone，andworkingveryhardforonehalfyear，andlivingharder，savedfundsenoughtobringtheotherout。Thatdone，theyworkedtogethersidebyside，contentedlysharinghardlabourandhardlivingforanotherterm，andthentheirsisterscame，andthenanotherbrother，andlastly，theiroldmother。Andwhatnow？Why，thepooroldcroneisrestlessinastrangeland，andyearnstolayherbones，shesays，amongherpeopleintheoldgraveyardathome:andsotheygotopayherpassageback:andGodhelpherandthem，andeverysimpleheart，andallwhoturntotheJerusalemoftheiryoungerdays，andhaveanaltar-fireuponthecoldhearthoftheirfathers。

Thisnarrowthoroughfare，bakingandblisteringinthesun，isWallStreet:theStockExchangeandLombardStreetofNewYork。Manyarapidfortunehasbeenmadeinthisstreet，andmanyanolessrapidruin。Someoftheseverymerchantswhomyouseehangingaboutherenow，havelockedupmoneyintheirstrong-boxes，likethemanintheArabianNights，andopeningthemagain，havefoundbutwitheredleaves。Below，herebythewater-side，wherethebowspritsofshipsstretchacrossthefootway，andalmostthrustthemselvesintothewindows，liethenobleAmericanvesselswhichhavingmadetheirPacketServicethefinestintheworld。Theyhavebroughthithertheforeignerswhoaboundinallthestreets:

not，perhaps，thattherearemorehere，thaninothercommercialcities；butelsewhere，theyhaveparticularhaunts，andyoumustfindthemout；here，theypervadethetown。

WemustcrossBroadwayagain；gainingsomerefreshmentfromtheheat，inthesightofthegreatblocksofcleanicewhicharebeingcarriedintoshopsandbar-rooms；andthepine-applesandwater-

melonsprofuselydisplayedforsale。Finestreetsofspacioushouseshere，yousee!-WallStreethasfurnishedanddismantledmanyofthemveryoften-andhereadeepgreenleafysquare。Besurethatisahospitablehousewithinmatestobeaffectionatelyrememberedalways，wheretheyhavetheopendoorandprettyshowofplantswithin，andwherethechildwithlaughingeyesispeepingoutofwindowatthelittledogbelow。Youwonderwhatmaybetheuseofthistallflagstaffintheby-street，withsomethinglikeLiberty"shead-dressonitstop:sodoI。Butthereisapassionfortallflagstaffshereabout，andyoumayseeitstwinbrotherinfiveminutes，ifyouhaveamind。

AgainacrossBroadway，andso-passingfromthemany-colouredcrowdandglitteringshops-intoanotherlongmainstreet，theBowery。Arailroadyonder，see，wheretwostouthorsestrotalong，drawingascoreortwoofpeopleandagreatwoodenark，withease。