第4章

Ihavebeenthusparticularindescribingher，becauseshewillservetoexemplifythephysician"smannerofacquiringandretainingtheconfidenceofhispatients。

"This，"hesaidaloud，takingmebythehand，andadvancingtothefantasticfigurewithgreatpoliteness-notraisinghersuspicionsbytheslightestlookorwhisper，oranykindofaside，tome:

"Thisladyisthehostessofthismansion，sir。Itbelongstoher。

Nobodyelsehasanythingwhatevertodowithit。Itisalargeestablishment，asyousee，andrequiresagreatnumberofattendants。Shelives，youobserve，intheveryfirststyle。Sheiskindenoughtoreceivemyvisits，andtopermitmywifeandfamilytoresidehere；forwhichitishardlynecessarytosay，wearemuchindebtedtoher。Sheisexceedinglycourteous，youperceive，"onthishintshebowedcondescendingly，"andwillpermitmetohavethepleasureofintroducingyou:agentlemanfromEngland，Ma"am:newlyarrivedfromEngland，afteraverytempestuouspassage:Mr。Dickens，-theladyofthehouse!"

Weexchangedthemostdignifiedsalutationswithprofoundgravityandrespect，andsowenton。Therestofthemadwomenseemedtounderstandthejokeperfectly(notonlyinthiscase，butinalltheothers，excepttheirown)，andbehighlyamusedbyit。Thenatureoftheirseveralkindsofinsanitywasmadeknowntomeinthesameway，andwelefteachoftheminhighgoodhumour。Notonlyisathoroughconfidenceestablished，bythosemeans，betweenthephysicianandpatient，inrespectofthenatureandextentoftheirhallucinations，butitiseasytounderstandthatopportunitiesareaffordedforseizinganymomentofreason，tostartlethembyplacingtheirowndelusionbeforetheminitsmostincongruousandridiculouslight。

Everypatientinthisasylumsitsdowntodinnereverydaywithaknifeandfork；andinthemidstofthemsitsthegentleman，whosemannerofdealingwithhischarges，Ihavejustdescribed。Ateverymeal，moralinfluencealonerestrainsthemoreviolentamongthemfromcuttingthethroatsoftherest；buttheeffectofthatinfluenceisreducedtoanabsolutecertainty，andisfound，evenasameansofrestraint，tosaynothingofitasameansofcure，ahundredtimesmoreefficaciousthanallthestrait-waistcoats，fetters，andhandcuffs，thatignorance，prejudice，andcrueltyhavemanufacturedsincethecreationoftheworld。

Inthelabourdepartment，everypatientisasfreelytrustedwiththetoolsofhistradeasifhewereasaneman。Inthegarden，andonthefarm，theyworkwithspades，rakes，andhoes。Foramusement，theywalk，run，fish，paint，read，andrideouttotaketheairincarriagesprovidedforthepurpose。Theyhaveamongthemselvesasewingsocietytomakeclothesforthepoor，whichholdsmeetings，passesresolutions，nevercomestofisty-cuffsorbowie-knivesassaneassemblieshavebeenknowntodoelsewhere；

andconductsallitsproceedingswiththegreatestdecorum。Theirritability，whichwouldotherwisebeexpendedontheirownflesh，clothes，andfurniture，isdissipatedinthesepursuits。Theyarecheerful，tranquil，andhealthy。

Onceaweektheyhaveaball，inwhichtheDoctorandhisfamily，withallthenursesandattendants，takeanactivepart。Dancesandmarchesareperformedalternately，totheenliveningstrainsofapiano；andnowandthensomegentlemanorlady(whoseproficiencyhasbeenpreviouslyascertained)obligesthecompanywithasong:

nordoesiteverdegenerate，atatendercrisis，intoascreechorhowl；wherein，Imustconfess，Ishouldhavethoughtthedangerlay。Atanearlyhourtheyallmeettogetherforthesefestivepurposes；ateighto"clockrefreshmentsareserved；andatninetheyseparate。

Immensepolitenessandgoodbreedingareobservedthroughout。TheyalltaketheirtonefromtheDoctor；andhemovesaveryChesterfieldamongthecompany。Likeotherassemblies，theseentertainmentsaffordafruitfultopicofconversationamongtheladiesforsomedays；andthegentlemenaresoanxioustoshineontheseoccasions，thattheyhavebeensometimesfound"practisingtheirsteps"inprivate，tocutamoredistinguishedfigureinthedance。

Itisobviousthatonegreatfeatureofthissystem，istheinculcationandencouragement，evenamongsuchunhappypersons，ofadecentself-respect。SomethingofthesamespiritpervadesalltheInstitutionsatSouthBoston。

ThereistheHouseofIndustry。Inthatbranchofit，whichisdevotedtothereceptionofoldorotherwisehelplesspaupers，thesewordsarepaintedonthewalls:"WORTHYOFNOTICE。SELF-

GOVERNMENT，QUIETUDE，ANDPEACE，AREBLESSINGS。"Itisnotassumedandtakenforgrantedthatbeingtheretheymustbeevil-disposedandwickedpeople，beforewhoseviciouseyesitisnecessarytoflourishthreatsandharshrestraints。Theyaremetattheverythresholdwiththismildappeal。Allwithin-doorsisveryplainandsimple，asitoughttobe，butarrangedwithaviewtopeaceandcomfort。Itcostsnomorethananyotherplanofarrangement，butitspeaksanamountofconsiderationforthosewhoarereducedtoseekashelterthere，whichputsthematonceupontheirgratitudeandgoodbehaviour。Insteadofbeingparcelledoutingreat，long，ramblingwards，whereacertainamountofweazenlifemaymope，andpine，andshiver，alldaylong，thebuildingisdividedintoseparaterooms，eachwithitsshareoflightandair。

Inthese，thebetterkindofpauperslive。Theyhaveamotiveforexertionandbecomingpride，inthedesiretomaketheselittlechamberscomfortableanddecent。

Idonotrememberonebutitwascleanandneat，andhaditsplantortwouponthewindow-sill，orrowofcrockeryupontheshelf，orsmalldisplayofcolouredprintsuponthewhitewashedwall，or，perhaps，itswoodenclockbehindthedoor。

Theorphansandyoungchildrenareinanadjoiningbuildingseparatefromthis，butapartofthesameInstitution。Somearesuchlittlecreatures，thatthestairsareofLilliputianmeasurement，fittedtotheirtinystrides。Thesameconsiderationfortheiryearsandweaknessisexpressedintheirveryseats，whichareperfectcuriosities，andlooklikearticlesoffurnitureforapauperdoll"s-house。IcanimaginethegleeofourPoorLawCommissionersatthenotionoftheseseatshavingarmsandbacks；

butsmallspinesbeingofolderdatethantheiroccupationoftheBoard-roomatSomersetHouse，Ithoughteventhisprovisionverymercifulandkind。

Hereagain，Iwasgreatlypleasedwiththeinscriptionsonthewall，whichwerescrapsofplainmorality，easilyrememberedandunderstood:suchas"Loveoneanother"-"Godremembersthesmallestcreatureinhiscreation:"andstraightforwardadviceofthatnature。Thebooksandtasksofthesesmallestofscholars，wereadapted，inthesamejudiciousmanner，totheirchildishpowers。Whenwehadexaminedtheselessons，fourmorselsofgirls(ofwhomonewasblind)sangalittlesong，aboutthemerrymonthofMay，whichIthought(beingextremelydismal)wouldhavesuitedanEnglishNovemberbetter。Thatdone，wewenttoseetheirsleeping-roomsonthefloorabove，inwhichthearrangementswerenolessexcellentandgentlethanthosewehadseenbelow。Andafterobservingthattheteacherswereofaclassandcharacterwellsuitedtothespiritoftheplace，ItookleaveoftheinfantswithalighterheartthaneverIhavetakenleaveofpauperinfantsyet。

ConnectedwiththeHouseofIndustry，thereisalsoanHospital，whichwasinthebestorder，andhad，Iamgladtosay，manybedsunoccupied。Ithadonefault，however，whichiscommontoallAmericaninteriors:thepresenceoftheeternal，accursed，suffocating，red-hotdemonofastove，whosebreathwouldblightthepurestairunderHeaven。

Therearetwoestablishmentsforboysinthissameneighbourhood。

OneiscalledtheBoylstonschool，andisanasylumforneglectedandindigentboyswhohavecommittednocrime，butwhointheordinarycourseofthingswouldverysoonbepurgedofthatdistinctioniftheywerenottakenfromthehungrystreetsandsenthere。TheotherisaHouseofReformationforJuvenileOffenders。

Theyarebothunderthesameroof，butthetwoclassesofboysnevercomeincontact。

TheBoylstonboys，asmaybereadilysupposed，haveverymuchtheadvantageoftheothersinpointofpersonalappearance。Theywereintheirschool-roomwhenIcameuponthem，andansweredcorrectly，withoutbook，suchquestionsaswherewasEngland；howfarwasit；

whatwasitspopulation；itscapitalcity；itsformofgovernment；

andsoforth。Theysangasongtoo，aboutafarmersowinghisseed:withcorrespondingactionatsuchpartsas""tisthushesows，""heturnshimround，""heclapshishands；"whichgaveitgreaterinterestforthem，andaccustomedthemtoacttogether，inanorderlymanner。Theyappearedexceedinglywell-taught，andnotbettertaughtthanfed；foramorechubby-lookingfull-waistcoatedsetofboys，Ineversaw。

Thejuvenileoffendershadnotsuchpleasantfacesbyagreatdeal，andinthisestablishmentthereweremanyboysofcolour。Isawthemfirstattheirwork(basket-making，andthemanufactureofpalm-leafhats)，afterwardsintheirschool，wheretheysangachorusinpraiseofLiberty:anodd，and，onewouldthink，ratheraggravating，themeforprisoners。Theseboysaredividedintofourclasses，eachdenotedbyanumeral，wornonabadgeuponthearm。

Onthearrivalofanew-comer，heisputintothefourthorlowestclass，andleft，bygoodbehaviour，toworkhiswayupintothefirst。ThedesignandobjectofthisInstitutionistoreclaimtheyouthfulcriminalbyfirmbutkindandjudicioustreatment；tomakehisprisonaplaceofpurificationandimprovement，notofdemoralisationandcorruption；toimpressuponhimthatthereisbutonepath，andthatonesoberindustry，whichcaneverleadhimtohappiness；toteachhimhowitmaybetrodden，ifhisfootstepshaveneveryetbeenledthatway；andtolurehimbacktoitiftheyhavestrayed:inaword，tosnatchhimfromdestruction，andrestorehimtosocietyapenitentandusefulmember。Theimportanceofsuchanestablishment，ineverypointofview，andwithreferencetoeveryconsiderationofhumanityandsocialpolicy，requiresnocomment。

Oneotherestablishmentclosesthecatalogue。ItistheHouseofCorrectionfortheState，inwhichsilenceisstrictlymaintained，butwheretheprisonershavethecomfortandmentalreliefofseeingeachother，andofworkingtogether。ThisistheimprovedsystemofPrisonDisciplinewhichwehaveimportedintoEngland，andwhichhasbeeninsuccessfuloperationamongusforsomeyearspast。

America，asanewandnotover-populatedcountry，hasinallherprisons，theonegreatadvantage，ofbeingenabledtofindusefulandprofitableworkfortheinmates；whereas，withus，theprejudiceagainstprisonlabourisnaturallyverystrong，andalmostinsurmountable，whenhonestmenwhohavenotoffendedagainstthelawsarefrequentlydoomedtoseekemploymentinvain。

EvenintheUnitedStates，theprincipleofbringingconvictlabourandfreelabourintoacompetitionwhichmustobviouslybetothedisadvantageofthelatter，hasalreadyfoundmanyopponents，whosenumberisnotlikelytodiminishwithaccessofyears。

Forthisveryreasonthough，ourbestprisonswouldseematthefirstglancetobebetterconductedthanthoseofAmerica。Thetreadmillisconductedwithlittleornonoise；fivehundredmenmaypickoakuminthesameroom，withoutasound；andbothkindsoflabouradmitofsuchkeenandvigilantsuperintendence，aswillrenderevenawordofpersonalcommunicationamongsttheprisonersalmostimpossible。Ontheotherhand，thenoiseoftheloom，theforge，thecarpenter"shammer，orthestonemason"ssaw，greatlyfavourthoseopportunitiesofintercourse-hurriedandbriefnodoubt，butopportunitiesstill-whichtheseseveralkindsofwork，byrenderingitnecessaryformentobeemployedveryneartoeachother，andoftensidebyside，withoutanybarrierorpartitionbetweenthem，intheirverynaturepresent。Avisitor，too，requirestoreasonandreflectalittle，beforethesightofanumberofmenengagedinordinarylabour，suchasheisaccustomedtooutofdoors，willimpresshimhalfasstronglyasthecontemplationofthesamepersonsinthesameplaceandgarbwould，iftheywereoccupiedinsometask，markedanddegradedeverywhereasbelongingonlytofelonsinjails。InanAmericanstateprisonorhouseofcorrection，IfounditdifficultatfirsttopersuademyselfthatIwasreallyinajail:aplaceofignominiouspunishmentandendurance。AndtothishourIverymuchquestionwhetherthehumaneboastthatitisnotlikeone，hasitsrootinthetruewisdomorphilosophyofthematter。

IhopeImaynotbemisunderstoodonthissubject，foritisoneinwhichItakeastronganddeepinterest。Iinclineaslittletothesicklyfeelingwhichmakeseverycantinglieormaudlinspeechofanotoriouscriminalasubjectofnewspaperreportandgeneralsympathy，asIdotothosegoodoldcustomsofthegoodoldtimeswhichmadeEngland，evensorecentlyasinthereignoftheThirdKingGeorge，inrespectofhercriminalcodeandherprisonregulations，oneofthemostbloody-mindedandbarbarouscountriesontheearth。IfIthoughtitwoulddoanygoodtotherisinggeneration，Iwouldcheerfullygivemyconsenttothedisintermentofthebonesofanygenteelhighwayman(themoregenteel，themorecheerfully)，andtotheirexposure，piecemeal，onanysign-post，gate，orgibbet，thatmightbedeemedagoodelevationforthepurpose。Myreasonisaswellconvincedthatthesegentrywereasutterlyworthlessanddebauchedvillains，asitisthatthelawsandjailshardenedthemintheirevilcourses，orthattheirwonderfulescapeswereeffectedbytheprison-turnkeyswho，inthoseadmirabledays，hadalwaysbeenfelonsthemselves，andwere，tothelast，theirbosom-friendsandpot-companions。AtthesametimeIknow，asallmendoorshould，thatthesubjectofPrisonDisciplineisoneofthehighestimportancetoanycommunity；andthatinhersweepingreformandbrightexampletoothercountriesonthishead，Americahasshowngreatwisdom，greatbenevolence，andexaltedpolicy。Incontrastinghersystemwiththatwhichwehavemodelleduponit，Imerelyseektoshowthatwithallitsdrawbacks，ourshassomeadvantagesofitsown。

TheHouseofCorrectionwhichhasledtotheseremarks，isnotwalled，likeotherprisons，butispalisadedroundaboutwithtallroughstakes，somethingafterthemannerofanenclosureforkeepingelephantsin，asweseeitrepresentedinEasternprintsandpictures。Theprisonerswearaparti-coloureddress；andthosewhoaresentencedtohardlabour，workatnail-making，orstone-

cutting。WhenIwasthere，thelatterclassoflabourerswereemployeduponthestoneforanewcustom-houseincourseoferectionatBoston。Theyappearedtoshapeitskilfullyandwithexpedition，thoughtherewereveryfewamongthem(ifany)whohadnotacquiredtheartwithintheprisongates。

Thewomen，allinonelargeroom，wereemployedinmakinglightclothing，forNewOrleansandtheSouthernStates。Theydidtheirworkinsilencelikethemen；andlikethemwereover-lookedbythepersoncontractingfortheirlabour，orbysomeagentofhisappointment。Inadditiontothis，theyareeverymomentliabletobevisitedbytheprisonofficersappointedforthatpurpose。

Thearrangementsforcooking，washingofclothes，andsoforth，aremuchupontheplanofthoseIhaveseenathome。Theirmodeofbestowingtheprisonersatnight(whichisofgeneraladoption)

differsfromours，andisbothsimpleandeffective。Inthecentreofaloftyarea，lightedbywindowsinthefourwalls，arefivetiersofcells，oneabovetheother；eachtierhavingbeforeitalightirongallery，attainablebystairsofthesameconstructionandmaterial:exceptingthelowerone，whichisontheground。

Behindthese，backtobackwiththemandfacingtheoppositewall，arefivecorrespondingrowsofcells，accessiblebysimilarmeans:

sothatsupposingtheprisonerslockedupintheircells，anofficerstationedontheground，withhisbacktothewall，hashalftheirnumberunderhiseyeatonce；theremaininghalfbeingequallyundertheobservationofanotherofficerontheoppositeside；andallinonegreatapartment。Unlessthiswatchbecorruptedorsleepingonhispost，itisimpossibleforamantoescape；forevenintheeventofhisforcingtheirondoorofhiscellwithoutnoise(whichisexceedinglyimprobable)，themomentheappearsoutside，andstepsintothatoneofthefivegalleriesonwhichitissituated，hemustbeplainlyandfullyvisibletotheofficerbelow。Eachofthesecellsholdsasmalltrucklebed，inwhichoneprisonersleeps；nevermore。Itissmall，ofcourse；andthedoorbeingnotsolid，butgrated，andwithoutblindorcurtain，theprisonerwithinisatalltimesexposedtotheobservationandinspectionofanyguardwhomaypassalongthattieratanyhourorminuteofthenight。Everyday，theprisonersreceivetheirdinner，singly，throughatrapinthekitchenwall；andeachmancarrieshistohissleepingcelltoeatit，whereheislockedup，alone，forthatpurpose，onehour。Thewholeofthisarrangementstruckmeasbeingadmirable；andIhopethatthenextnewprisonweerectinEnglandmaybebuiltonthisplan。

Iwasgiventounderstandthatinthisprisonnoswordsorfire-

arms，orevencudgels，arekept；norisitprobablethat，solongasitspresentexcellentmanagementcontinues，anyweapon，offensiveordefensive，willeverberequiredwithinitsbounds。

SucharetheInstitutionsatSouthBoston!Inallofthem，theunfortunateordegeneratecitizensoftheStatearecarefullyinstructedintheirdutiesbothtoGodandman；aresurroundedbyallreasonablemeansofcomfortandhappinessthattheirconditionwilladmitof；areappealedto，asmembersofthegreathumanfamily，howeverafflicted，indigent，orfallen；areruledbythestrongHeart，andnotbythestrong(thoughimmeasurablyweaker)

Hand。Ihavedescribedthematsomelength；firstly，becausetheirworthdemandedit；andsecondly，becauseImeantotakethemforamodel，andtocontentmyselfwithsayingofotherswemaycometo，whosedesignandpurposearethesame，thatinthisorthatrespecttheypracticallyfail，ordiffer。

Iwishbythisaccountofthem，imperfectinitsexecution，butinitsjustintention，honest，Icouldhopetoconveytomyreadersone-hundredthpartofthegratification，thesightsIhavedescribed，affordedme。

ToanEnglishman，accustomedtotheparaphernaliaofWestminsterHall，anAmericanCourtofLawisasoddasightas，Isuppose，anEnglishCourtofLawwouldbetoanAmerican。ExceptintheSupremeCourtatWashington(wherethejudgeswearaplainblackrobe)，thereisnosuchthingasawigorgownconnectedwiththeadministrationofjustice。Thegentlemenofthebarbeingbarristersandattorneystoo(forthereisnodivisionofthosefunctionsasinEngland)arenomoreremovedfromtheirclientsthanattorneysinourCourtfortheReliefofInsolventDebtorsare，fromtheirs。Thejuryarequiteathome，andmakethemselvesascomfortableascircumstanceswillpermit。Thewitnessissolittleelevatedabove，orputalooffrom，thecrowdinthecourt，thatastrangerenteringduringapauseintheproceedingswouldfinditdifficulttopickhimoutfromtherest。Andifitchancedtobeacriminaltrial，hiseyes，inninecasesoutoften，wouldwandertothedockinsearchoftheprisoner，invain；forthatgentlemanwouldmostlikelybeloungingamongthemostdistinguishedornamentsofthelegalprofession，whisperingsuggestionsinhiscounsel"sear，ormakingatoothpickoutofanoldquillwithhispenknife。

Icouldnotbutnoticethesedifferences，whenIvisitedthecourtsatBoston。Iwasmuchsurprisedatfirst，too，toobservethatthecounselwhointerrogatedthewitnessunderexaminationatthetime，didsoSITTING。Butseeingthathewasalsooccupiedinwritingdowntheanswers，andrememberingthathewasaloneandhadno"junior，"Iquicklyconsoledmyselfwiththereflectionthatlawwasnotquitesoexpensiveanarticlehere，asathome；andthattheabsenceofsundryformalitieswhichweregardasindispensable，haddoubtlessaveryfavourableinfluenceuponthebillofcosts。

IneveryCourt，ampleandcommodiousprovisionismadefortheaccommodationofthecitizens。ThisisthecaseallthroughAmerica。IneveryPublicInstitution，therightofthepeopletoattend，andtohaveaninterestintheproceedings，ismostfullyanddistinctlyrecognised。Therearenogrimdoor-keeperstodoleouttheirtardycivilitybythesixpenny-worth；noristhere，I

sincerelybelieve，anyinsolenceofofficeofanykind。Nothingnationalisexhibitedformoney；andnopublicofficerisashowman。Wehavebegunoflateyearstoimitatethisgoodexample。

Ihopeweshallcontinuetodoso；andthatinthefulnessoftime，evendeansandchaptersmaybeconverted。

Inthecivilcourtanactionwastrying，fordamagessustainedinsomeaccidentuponarailway。Thewitnesseshadbeenexamined，andcounselwasaddressingthejury。Thelearnedgentleman(likeafewofhisEnglishbrethren)wasdesperatelylong-winded，andhadaremarkablecapacityofsayingthesamethingoverandoveragain。

Hisgreatthemewas"WarrentheENGINEdriver，"whomhepressedintotheserviceofeverysentenceheuttered。Ilistenedtohimforaboutaquarterofanhour；and，comingoutofcourtattheexpirationofthattime，withoutthefaintestrayofenlightenmentastothemeritsofthecase，feltasifIwereathomeagain。

Intheprisoner"scell，waitingtobeexaminedbythemagistrateonachargeoftheft，wasaboy。Thislad，insteadofbeingcommittedtoacommonjail，wouldbesenttotheasylumatSouthBoston，andtheretaughtatrade；andinthecourseoftimehewouldbeboundapprenticetosomerespectablemaster。Thus，hisdetectioninthisoffence，insteadofbeingthepreludetoalifeofinfamyandamiserabledeath，wouldlead，therewasareasonablehope，tohisbeingreclaimedfromvice，andbecomingaworthymemberofsociety。

Iambynomeansawholesaleadmirerofourlegalsolemnities，manyofwhichimpressmeasbeingexceedinglyludicrous。Strangeasitmayseemtoo，thereisundoubtedlyadegreeofprotectioninthewigandgown-adismissalofindividualresponsibilityindressingforthepart-whichencouragesthatinsolentbearingandlanguage，andthatgrossperversionoftheofficeofapleaderforTheTruth，sofrequentinourcourtsoflaw。Still，IcannothelpdoubtingwhetherAmerica，inherdesiretoshakeofftheabsurditiesandabusesoftheoldsystem，maynothavegonetoofarintotheoppositeextreme；andwhetheritisnotdesirable，especiallyinthesmallcommunityofacitylikethis，whereeachmanknowstheother，tosurroundtheadministrationofjusticewithsomeartificialbarriersagainstthe"Hailfellow，wellmet"deportmentofeverydaylife。AlltheaiditcanhaveintheveryhighcharacterandabilityoftheBench，notonlyherebutelsewhere，ithas，andwelldeservestohave；butitmayneedsomethingmore:

nottoimpressthethoughtfulandthewell-informed，buttheignorantandheedless；aclasswhichincludessomeprisonersandmanywitnesses。Theseinstitutionswereestablished，nodoubt，upontheprinciplethatthosewhohadsolargeashareinmakingthelaws，wouldcertainlyrespectthem。Butexperiencehasprovedthishopetobefallacious；fornomenknowbetterthanthejudgesofAmerica，thatontheoccasionofanygreatpopularexcitementthelawispowerless，andcannot，forthetime，assertitsownsupremacy。

ThetoneofsocietyinBostonisoneofperfectpoliteness，courtesy，andgoodbreeding。Theladiesareunquestionablyverybeautiful-inface:butthereIamcompelledtostop。Theireducationismuchaswithus；neitherbetternorworse。Ihadheardsomeverymarvellousstoriesinthisrespect；butnotbelievingthem，wasnotdisappointed。Blueladiesthereare，inBoston；butlikephilosophersofthatcolourandsexinmostotherlatitudes，theyratherdesiretobethoughtsuperiorthantobeso。

Evangelicalladiesthereare，likewise，whoseattachmenttotheformsofreligion，andhorroroftheatricalentertainments，aremostexemplary。Ladieswhohaveapassionforattendinglecturesaretobefoundamongallclassesandallconditions。Inthekindofprovinciallifewhichprevailsincitiessuchasthis，thePulpithasgreatinfluence。ThepeculiarprovinceofthePulpitinNewEngland(alwaysexceptingtheUnitarianMinistry)wouldappeartobethedenouncementofallinnocentandrationalamusements。

Thechurch，thechapel，andthelecture-room，aretheonlymeansofexcitementexcepted；andtothechurch，thechapel，andthelecture-room，theladiesresortincrowds。

Whereverreligionisresortedto，asastrongdrink，andasanescapefromthedullmonotonousroundofhome，thoseofitsministerswhopepperthehighestwillbethesuresttoplease。

TheywhostrewtheEternalPathwiththegreatestamountofbrimstone，andwhomostruthlesslytreaddowntheflowersandleavesthatgrowbythewayside，willbevotedthemostrighteous；

andtheywhoenlargewiththegreatestpertinacityonthedifficultyofgettingintoheaven，willbeconsideredbyalltruebelieverscertainofgoingthere:thoughitwouldbehardtosaybywhatprocessofreasoningthisconclusionisarrivedat。Itissoathome，anditissoabroad。Withregardtotheothermeansofexcitement，theLecture，ithasatleastthemeritofbeingalwaysnew。Onelecturetreadssoquicklyontheheelsofanother，thatnoneareremembered；andthecourseofthismonthmaybesafelyrepeatednext，withitscharmofnoveltyunbroken，anditsinterestunabated。

Thefruitsoftheearthhavetheirgrowthincorruption。Outoftherottennessofthesethings，therehassprungupinBostonasectofphilosophersknownasTranscendentalists。Oninquiringwhatthisappellationmightbesupposedtosignify，Iwasgiventounderstandthatwhateverwasunintelligiblewouldbecertainlytranscendental。Notderivingmuchcomfortfromthiselucidation，I

pursuedtheinquirystillfurther，andfoundthattheTranscendentalistsarefollowersofmyfriendMr。Carlyle，orI

shouldrathersay，ofafollowerofhis，Mr。RalphWaldoEmerson。

ThisgentlemanhaswrittenavolumeofEssays，inwhich，amongmuchthatisdreamyandfanciful(ifhewillpardonmeforsayingso)，thereismuchmorethatistrueandmanly，honestandbold。

Transcendentalismhasitsoccasionalvagaries(whatschoolhasnot？)，butithasgoodhealthfulqualitiesinspiteofthem；notleastamongthenumberaheartydisgustofCant，andanaptitudetodetectherinallthemillionvarietiesofhereverlastingwardrobe。AndthereforeifIwereaBostonian，IthinkIwouldbeaTranscendentalist。

TheonlypreacherIheardinBostonwasMr。Taylor，whoaddresseshimselfpeculiarlytoseamen，andwhowasonceamarinerhimself。

Ifoundhischapeldownamongtheshipping，inoneofthenarrow，old，water-sidestreets，withagayblueflagwavingfreelyfromitsroof。Inthegalleryoppositetothepulpitwerealittlechoirofmaleandfemalesingers，avioloncello，andaviolin。Thepreacheralreadysatinthepulpit，whichwasraisedonpillars，andornamentedbehindhimwithpainteddraperyofalivelyandsomewhattheatricalappearance。Helookedaweather-beatenhard-

featuredman，ofaboutsixoreightandfifty；withdeeplinesgravenasitwereintohisface，darkhair，andastern，keeneye。

Yetthegeneralcharacterofhiscountenancewaspleasantandagreeable。Theservicecommencedwithahymn，towhichsucceededanextemporaryprayer。Ithadthefaultoffrequentrepetition，incidentaltoallsuchprayers；butitwasplainandcomprehensiveinitsdoctrines，andbreathedatoneofgeneralsympathyandcharity，whichisnotsocommonlyacharacteristicofthisformofaddresstotheDeityasitmightbe。Thatdoneheopenedhisdiscourse，takingforhistextapassagefromtheSongofSolomon，laiduponthedeskbeforethecommencementoftheservicebysomeunknownmemberofthecongregation:"Whoisthiscomingupfromthewilderness，leaningonthearmofherbeloved!"

Hehandledhistextinallkindsofways，andtwisteditintoallmannerofshapes；butalwaysingeniously，andwitharudeeloquence，welladaptedtothecomprehensionofhishearers。

IndeedifIbenotmistaken，hestudiedtheirsympathiesandunderstandingsmuchmorethanthedisplayofhisownpowers。Hisimagerywasalldrawnfromthesea，andfromtheincidentsofaseaman"slife；andwasoftenremarkablygood。Hespoketothemof"thatgloriousman，LordNelson，"andofCollingwood；anddrewnothingin，asthesayingis，bytheheadandshoulders，butbroughtittobearuponhispurpose，naturally，andwithasharpmindtoitseffect。Sometimes，whenmuchexcitedwithhissubject，hehadanoddway-compoundedofJohnBunyan，andBalfourofBurley-oftakinghisgreatquartoBibleunderhisarmandpacingupanddownthepulpitwithit；lookingsteadilydown，meantime，intothemidstofthecongregation。Thus，whenheappliedhistexttothefirstassemblageofhishearers，andpicturedthewonderofthechurchattheirpresumptioninformingacongregationamongthemselves，hestoppedshortwithhisBibleunderhisarminthemannerIhavedescribed，andpursuedhisdiscourseafterthismanner:

"Whoarethese-whoarethey-whoarethesefellows？wheredotheycomefrom？Wherearetheygoingto？-Comefrom!What"stheanswer？"-leaningoutofthepulpit，andpointingdownwardwithhisrighthand:"Frombelow!"-startingbackagain，andlookingatthesailorsbeforehim:"Frombelow，mybrethren。Fromunderthehatchesofsin，batteneddownaboveyoubytheevilone。

That"swhereyoucamefrom!"-awalkupanddownthepulpit:"andwhereareyougoing"-stoppingabruptly:"whereareyougoing？

Aloft!"-verysoftly，andpointingupward:"Aloft!"-louder:

"aloft!"-louderstill:"That"swhereyouaregoing-withafairwind，-alltautandtrim，steeringdirectforHeaveninitsglory，wheretherearenostormsorfoulweather，andwherethewickedceasefromtroubling，andthewearyareatrest。"-Anotherwalk:

"That"swhereyou"regoingto，myfriends。That"sit。That"stheplace。That"stheport。That"sthehaven。It"sablessedharbour-stillwaterthere，inallchangesofthewindsandtides；nodrivingashoreupontherocks，orslippingyourcablesandrunningouttosea，there:Peace-Peace-Peace-allpeace!"-Anotherwalk，andpattingtheBibleunderhisleftarm:"What!Thesefellowsarecomingfromthewilderness，arethey？Yes。Fromthedreary，blightedwildernessofIniquity，whoseonlycropisDeath。

Butdotheyleanuponanything-dotheyleanuponnothing，thesepoorseamen？"-ThreerapsupontheBible:"Ohyes-Yes-TheyleanuponthearmoftheirBeloved"-threemoreraps:"uponthearmoftheirBeloved"-threemore，andawalk:"Pilot，guiding-

star，andcompass，allinone，toallhands-hereitis"-threemore:"Hereitis。Theycandotheirseaman"sdutymanfully，andbeeasyintheirmindsintheutmostperilanddanger，withthis"-

twomore:"Theycancome，eventhesepoorfellowscancome，fromthewildernessleaningonthearmoftheirBeloved，andgoup-up-up!"-raisinghishandhigher，andhigher，ateveryrepetitionoftheword，sothathestoodwithitatlaststretchedabovehishead，regardingtheminastrange，raptmanner，andpressingthebooktriumphantlytohisbreast，untilhegraduallysubsidedintosomeotherportionofhisdiscourse。

Ihavecitedthis，ratherasaninstanceofthepreacher"seccentricitiesthanhismerits，thoughtakeninconnectionwithhislookandmanner，andthecharacterofhisaudience，eventhiswasstriking。Itispossible，however，thatmyfavourableimpressionofhimmayhavebeengreatlyinfluencedandstrengthened，firstly，byhisimpressinguponhishearersthatthetrueobservanceofreligionwasnotinconsistentwithacheerfuldeportmentandanexactdischargeofthedutiesoftheirstation，which，indeed，itscrupulouslyrequiredofthem；andsecondly，byhiscautioningthemnottosetupanymonopolyinParadiseanditsmercies。Ineverheardthesetwopointssowiselytouched(ifindeedIhaveeverheardthemtouchedatall)，byanypreacherofthatkindbefore。

HavingpassedthetimeIspentinBoston，inmakingmyselfacquaintedwiththesethings，insettlingthecourseIshouldtakeinmyfuturetravels，andinmixingconstantlywithitssociety，I

amnotawarethatIhaveanyoccasiontoprolongthischapter。

SuchofitssocialcustomsasIhavenotmentioned，however，maybetoldinaveryfewwords。

Theusualdinner-houristwoo"clock。Adinnerpartytakesplaceatfive；andataneveningparty，theyseldomsuplaterthaneleven；sothatitgoeshardbutonegetshome，evenfromarout，bymidnight。InevercouldfindoutanydifferencebetweenapartyatBostonandapartyinLondon，savingthatattheformerplaceallassembliesareheldatmorerationalhours；thattheconversationmaypossiblybealittlelouderandmorecheerful；andaguestisusuallyexpectedtoascendtotheverytopofthehousetotakehiscloakoff；thatheiscertaintosee，ateverydinner，anunusualamountofpoultryonthetable；andateverysupper，atleasttwomightybowlsofhotstewedoysters，inanyoneofwhichahalf-grownDukeofClarencemightbesmotheredeasily。

TherearetwotheatresinBoston，ofgoodsizeandconstruction，butsadlyinwantofpatronage。Thefewladieswhoresorttothem，sit，asofright，inthefrontrowsoftheboxes。

Thebarisalargeroomwithastonefloor，andtherepeoplestandandsmoke，andloungeabout，alltheevening:droppinginandoutasthehumourtakesthem。TheretoothestrangerisinitiatedintothemysteriesofGin-sling，Cock-tail，Sangaree，MintJulep，Sherry-cobbler，TimberDoodle，andotherraredrinks。Thehouseisfullofboarders，bothmarriedandsingle，manyofwhomsleepuponthepremises，andcontractbytheweekfortheirboardandlodging:

thechargeforwhichdiminishesastheygonearertheskytoroost。

Apublictableislaidinaveryhandsomehallforbreakfast，andfordinner，andforsupper。Thepartysittingdowntogethertothesemealswillvaryinnumberfromonetotwohundred:sometimesmore。Theadventofeachoftheseepochsinthedayisproclaimedbyanawfulgong，whichshakestheverywindow-framesasitreverberatesthroughthehouse，andhorriblydisturbsnervousforeigners。Thereisanordinaryforladies，andanordinaryforgentlemen。

Inourprivateroomtheclothcouldnot，foranyearthlyconsideration，havebeenlaidfordinnerwithoutahugeglassdishofcranberriesinthemiddleofthetable；andbreakfastwouldhavebeennobreakfastunlesstheprincipaldishwereadeformedbeef-

steakwithagreatflatboneinthecentre，swimminginhotbutter，andsprinkledwiththeveryblackestofallpossiblepepper。Ourbedroomwasspaciousandairy，but(likeeverybedroomonthissideoftheAtlantic)verybareoffurniture，havingnocurtainstotheFrenchbedsteadortothewindow。Ithadoneunusualluxury，however，intheshapeofawardrobeofpaintedwood，somethingsmallerthananEnglishwatch-box；orifthiscomparisonshouldbeinsufficienttoconveyajustideaofitsdimensions，theymaybeestimatedfromthefactofmyhavinglivedforfourteendaysandnightsinthefirmbeliefthatitwasashower-bath。

CHAPTERIV-ANAMERICANRAILROAD。LOWELLANDITSFACTORYSYSTEM

BEFOREleavingBoston，IdevotedonedaytoanexcursiontoLowell。

Iassignaseparatechaptertothisvisit；notbecauseIamabouttodescribeitatanygreatlength，butbecauseIrememberitasathingbyitself，andamdesirousthatmyreadersshoulddothesame。

ImadeacquaintancewithanAmericanrailroad，onthisoccasion，forthefirsttime。AstheseworksareprettymuchalikeallthroughtheStates，theirgeneralcharacteristicsareeasilydescribed。

Therearenofirstandsecondclasscarriagesaswithus；butthereisagentleman"scarandaladies"car:themaindistinctionbetweenwhichisthatinthefirst，everybodysmokes；andinthesecond，nobodydoes。Asablackmannevertravelswithawhiteone，thereisalsoanegrocar；whichisagreat，blundering，clumsychest，suchasGulliverputtoseain，fromthekingdomofBrobdingnag。Thereisagreatdealofjolting，agreatdealofnoise，agreatdealofwall，notmuchwindow，alocomotiveengine，ashriek，andabell。

Thecarsarelikeshabbyomnibuses，butlarger:holdingthirty，forty，fifty，people。Theseats，insteadofstretchingfromendtoend，areplacedcrosswise。Eachseatholdstwopersons。Thereisalongrowofthemoneachsideofthecaravan，anarrowpassageupthemiddle，andadooratbothends。Inthecentreofthecarriagethereisusuallyastove，fedwithcharcoaloranthracitecoal；

whichisforthemostpartred-hot。Itisinsufferablyclose；andyouseethehotairflutteringbetweenyourselfandanyotherobjectyoumayhappentolookat，liketheghostofsmoke。

Intheladies"car，thereareagreatmanygentlemenwhohaveladieswiththem。Therearealsoagreatmanyladieswhohavenobodywiththem:foranyladymaytravelalone，fromoneendoftheUnitedStatestotheother，andbecertainofthemostcourteousandconsideratetreatmenteverywhere。Theconductororcheck-taker，orguard，orwhateverhemaybe，wearsnouniform。Hewalksupanddownthecar，andinandoutofit，ashisfancydictates；leansagainstthedoorwithhishandsinhispocketsandstaresatyou，ifyouchancetobeastranger；orentersintoconversationwiththepassengersabouthim。Agreatmanynewspapersarepulledout，andafewofthemareread。Everybodytalkstoyou，ortoanybodyelsewhohitshisfancy。IfyouareanEnglishman，heexpectsthatthatrailroadisprettymuchlikeanEnglishrailroad。Ifyousay"No，"hesays"Yes？"

(interrogatively)，andasksinwhatrespecttheydiffer。Youenumeratetheheadsofdifference，onebyone，andhesays"Yes？"