第6章

Thestoresarepoorerhere；thepassengerslessgay。Clothesready-made，andmeatready-cooked，aretobeboughtintheseparts；

andthelivelywhirlofcarriagesisexchangedforthedeeprumbleofcartsandwaggons。Thesesignswhicharesoplentiful，inshapelikeriverbuoys，orsmallballoons，hoistedbycordstopoles，anddanglingthere，announce，asyoumayseebylookingup，"OYSTERSIN

EVERYSTYLE。"Theytemptthehungrymostatnight，forthendullcandlesglimmeringinside，illuminatethesedaintywords，andmakethemouthsofidlerswater，astheyreadandlinger。

Whatisthisdismal-frontedpileofbastardEgyptian，likeanenchanter"spalaceinamelodrama!-afamousprison，calledTheTombs。Shallwegoin？

So。Along，narrow，loftybuilding，stove-heatedasusual，withfourgalleries，oneabovetheother，goingroundit，andcommunicatingbystairs。Betweenthetwosidesofeachgallery，andinitscentre，abridge，forthegreaterconvenienceofcrossing。Oneachofthesebridgessitsaman:dozingorreading，ortalkingtoanidlecompanion。Oneachtier，aretwooppositerowsofsmallirondoors。Theylooklikefurnace-doors，butarecoldandblack，asthoughthefireswithinhadallgoneout。Sometwoorthreeareopen，andwomen，withdroopingheadsbentdown，aretalkingtotheinmates。Thewholeislightedbyaskylight，butitisfastclosed；andfromtherooftheredangle，limpanddrooping，twouselesswindsails。

Amanwithkeysappears，toshowusround。Agood-lookingfellow，and，inhisway，civilandobliging。

"Arethoseblackdoorsthecells？"

"Yes。"

"Aretheyallfull？"

"Well，they"reprettynighfull，andthat"safact，andnotwowaysaboutit。"

"Thoseatthebottomareunwholesome，surely？"

"Why，weDOonlyputcolouredpeoplein"em。That"sthetruth。"

"Whendotheprisonerstakeexercise？"

"Well，theydowithoutitprettymuch。"

"Dotheyneverwalkintheyard？"

"Considerableseldom。"

"Sometimes，Isuppose？"

"Well，it"sraretheydo。Theykeepprettybrightwithoutit。"

"Butsupposeamanwerehereforatwelvemonth。Iknowthisisonlyaprisonforcriminalswhoarechargedwithgraveoffences，whiletheyareawaitingtheirtrial，orunderremand，butthelawhereaffordscriminalsmanymeansofdelay。Whatwithmotionsfornewtrials，andinarrestofjudgment，andwhatnot，aprisonermightbeherefortwelvemonths，Itakeit，mighthenot？"

"Well，Iguesshemight。"

"Doyoumeantosaythatinallthattimehewouldnevercomeoutatthatlittleirondoor，forexercise？"

"Hemightwalksome，perhaps-notmuch。"

"Willyouopenoneofthedoors？"

"All，ifyoulike。"

Thefasteningsjarandrattle，andoneofthedoorsturnsslowlyonitshinges。Letuslookin。Asmallbarecell，intowhichthelightentersthroughahighchinkinthewall。Thereisarudemeansofwashing，atable，andabedstead。Uponthelatter，sitsamanofsixty；reading。Helooksupforamoment；givesanimpatientdoggedshake；andfixeshiseyesuponhisbookagain。Aswewithdrawourheads，thedoorclosesonhim，andisfastenedasbefore。Thismanhasmurderedhiswife，andwillprobablybehanged。

"Howlonghashebeenhere？"

"Amonth。"

"Whenwillhebetried？"

"Nextterm。"

"Whenisthat？"

"Nextmonth。"

"InEngland，ifamanbeundersentenceofdeath，evenhehasairandexerciseatcertainperiodsoftheday。"

"Possible？"

Withwhatstupendousanduntranslatablecoolnesshesaysthis，andhowlounginglyheleadsontothewomen"sside:making，ashegoes，akindofironcastanetofthekeyandthestair-rail!

Eachcelldooronthissidehasasquareapertureinit。Someofthewomenpeepanxiouslythroughitatthesoundoffootsteps；

othersshrinkawayinshame-Forwhatoffencecanthatlonelychild，oftenortwelveyearsold，beshutuphere？Oh!thatboy？

Heisthesonoftheprisonerwesawjustnow；isawitnessagainsthisfather；andisdetainedhereforsafekeeping，untilthetrial；

that"sall。

Butitisadreadfulplaceforthechildtopassthelongdaysandnightsin。Thisisratherhardtreatmentforayoungwitness，isitnot？-Whatsaysourconductor？

"Well，itan"taveryrowdylife，andTHAT"Safact!"

Againheclinkshismetalcastanet，andleadsusleisurelyaway。I

haveaquestiontoaskhimaswego。

"Pray，whydotheycallthisplaceTheTombs？"

"Well，it"sthecantname。"

"Iknowitis。Why？"

"Somesuicideshappenedhere，whenitwasfirstbuilt。Iexpectitcomeaboutfromthat。"

"Isawjustnow，thatthatman"sclotheswerescatteredaboutthefloorofhiscell。Don"tyouobligetheprisonerstobeorderly，andputsuchthingsaway？"

"Whereshouldtheyput"em？"

"Notonthegroundsurely。Whatdoyousaytohangingthemup？"

Hestopsandlooksroundtoemphasisehisanswer:

"Why，Isaythat"sjustit。WhentheyhadhookstheyWOULDhangthemselves，sothey"retakenoutofeverycell，andthere"sonlythemarksleftwheretheyusedtobe!"

Theprison-yardinwhichhepausesnow，hasbeenthesceneofterribleperformances。Intothisnarrow，grave-likeplace，menarebroughtouttodie。Thewretchedcreaturestandsbeneaththegibbetontheground；theropeabouthisneck；andwhenthesignisgiven，aweightatitsotherendcomesrunningdown，andswingshimupintotheair-acorpse。

Thelawrequiresthattherebepresentatthisdismalspectacle，thejudge，thejury，andcitizenstotheamountoftwenty-five。

Fromthecommunityitishidden。Tothedissoluteandbad，thethingremainsafrightfulmystery。Betweenthecriminalandthem，theprison-wallisinterposedasathickgloomyveil。Itisthecurtaintohisbedofdeath，hiswinding-sheet，andgrave。Fromhimitshutsoutlife，andallthemotivestounrepentinghardihoodinthatlasthour，whichitsmeresightandpresenceisoftenall-

sufficienttosustain。Therearenoboldeyestomakehimbold；noruffianstoupholdaruffian"snamebefore。Allbeyondthepitilessstonewall，isunknownspace。

Letusgoforthagainintothecheerfulstreets。

OncemoreinBroadway!Herearethesameladiesinbrightcolours，walkingtoandfro，inpairsandsingly；yondertheverysamelightblueparasolwhichpassedandrepassedthehotel-windowtwentytimeswhileweweresittingthere。Wearegoingtocrosshere。

Takecareofthepigs。Twoportlysowsaretrottingupbehindthiscarriage，andaselectpartyofhalf-a-dozengentlemenhogshavejustnowturnedthecorner。

Hereisasolitaryswinelounginghomewardbyhimself。Hehasonlyoneear；havingpartedwiththeothertovagrant-dogsinthecourseofhiscityrambles。Buthegetsonverywellwithoutit；andleadsaroving，gentlemanly，vagabondkindoflife，somewhatansweringtothatofourclub-menathome。Heleaveshislodgingseverymorningatacertainhour，throwshimselfuponthetown，getsthroughhisdayinsomemannerquitesatisfactorytohimself，andregularlyappearsatthedoorofhisownhouseagainatnight，likethemysteriousmasterofGilBlas。Heisafree-and-easy，careless，indifferentkindofpig，havingaverylargeacquaintanceamongotherpigsofthesamecharacter，whomheratherknowsbysightthanconversation，asheseldomtroubleshimselftostopandexchangecivilities，butgoesgruntingdownthekennel，turningupthenewsandsmall-talkofthecityintheshapeofcabbage-stalksandoffal，andbearingnotailsbuthisown:whichisaveryshortone，forhisoldenemies，thedogs，havebeenatthattoo，andhavelefthimhardlyenoughtoswearby。Heisineveryrespectarepublicanpig，goingwhereverhepleases，andminglingwiththebestsociety，onanequal，ifnotsuperiorfooting，foreveryonemakeswaywhenheappears，andthehaughtiestgivehimthewall，ifhepreferit。Heisagreatphilosopher，andseldommoved，unlessbythedogsbeforementioned。Sometimes，indeed，youmayseehissmalleyetwinklingonaslaughteredfriend，whosecarcasegarnishesabutcher"sdoor-post，buthegruntsout"Suchislife:

allfleshispork!"burieshisnoseinthemireagain，andwaddlesdownthegutter:comfortinghimselfwiththereflectionthatthereisonesnoutthelesstoanticipatestraycabbage-stalks，atanyrate。

Theyarethecityscavengers，thesepigs。Uglybrutestheyare；

having，forthemostpart，scantybrownbacks，likethelidsofoldhorsehairtrunks:spottedwithunwholesomeblackblotches。Theyhavelong，gauntlegs，too，andsuchpeakedsnouts，thatifoneofthemcouldbepersuadedtositforhisprofile，nobodywouldrecogniseitforapig"slikeness。Theyareneverattendedupon，orfed，ordriven，orcaught，butarethrownupontheirownresourcesinearlylife，andbecomepreternaturallyknowinginconsequence。Everypigknowswherehelives，muchbetterthananybodycouldtellhim。Atthishour，justaseveningisclosingin，youwillseethemroamingtowardsbedbyscores，eatingtheirwaytothelast。Occasionally，someyouthamongthemwhohasover-

eatenhimself，orhasbeenworriedbydogs，trotsshrinkinglyhomeward，likeaprodigalson:butthisisararecase:perfectself-possessionandself-reliance，andimmovablecomposure，beingtheirforemostattributes。

Thestreetsandshopsarelightednow；andastheeyetravelsdownthelongthoroughfare，dottedwithbrightjetsofgas，itisremindedofOxfordStreet，orPiccadilly。Hereandthereaflightofbroadstonecellar-stepsappears，andapaintedlampdirectsyoutotheBowlingSaloon，orTen-Pinalley；Ten-Pinsbeingagameofmingledchanceandskill，inventedwhenthelegislaturepassedanactforbiddingNine-Pins。Atotherdownwardflightsofsteps，areotherlamps，markingthewhereaboutsofoyster-cellars-pleasantretreats，sayI:notonlybyreasonoftheirwonderfulcookeryofoysters，prettynighaslargeascheese-plates(orforthydearsake，heartiestofGreekProfessors!)，butbecauseofallkindsofcatersoffish，orflesh，orfowl，intheselatitudes，theswallowersofoystersalonearenotgregarious；butsubduingthemselves，asitwere，tothenatureofwhattheyworkin，andcopyingthecoynessofthethingtheyeat，dositapartincurtainedboxes，andconsortbytwos，notbytwohundreds。

Buthowquietthestreetsare!Aretherenoitinerantbands；nowindorstringedinstruments？No，notone。Byday，aretherenoPunches，Fantoccini，Dancing-dogs，Jugglers，Conjurers，Orchestrinas，orevenBarrel-organs？No，notone。Yes，Irememberone。Onebarrel-organandadancing-monkey-sportivebynature，butfastfadingintoadull，lumpishmonkey，oftheUtilitarianschool。Beyondthat，nothinglively；no，notsomuchasawhitemouseinatwirlingcage。

Aretherenoamusements？Yes。Thereisalecture-roomacrosstheway，fromwhichthatglareoflightproceeds，andtheremaybeeveningservicefortheladiesthriceaweek，oroftener。Fortheyounggentlemen，thereisthecounting-house，thestore，thebar-

room:thelatter，asyoumayseethroughthesewindows，prettyfull。Hark!totheclinkingsoundofhammersbreakinglumpsofice，andtothecoolgurglingofthepoundedbits，as，intheprocessofmixing，theyarepouredfromglasstoglass!Noamusements？Whatarethesesuckersofcigarsandswallowersofstrongdrinks，whosehatsandlegsweseeineverypossiblevarietyoftwist，doing，butamusingthemselves？Whatarethefiftynewspapers，whichthoseprecociousurchinsarebawlingdownthestreet，andwhicharekeptfiledwithin，whataretheybutamusements？Notvapid，waterishamusements，butgoodstrongstuff；

dealinginroundabuseandblackguardnames；pullingofftheroofsofprivatehouses，astheHaltingDevildidinSpain；pimpingandpanderingforalldegreesofvicioustaste，andgorgingwithcoinedliesthemostvoraciousmaw；imputingtoeverymaninpubliclifethecoarsestandthevilestmotives；scaringawayfromthestabbedandprostratebody-politic，everySamaritanofclearconscienceandgooddeeds；andsettingon，withyellandwhistleandtheclappingoffoulhands，thevilestverminandworstbirdsofprey-Noamusements!

Letusgoonagain；andpassingthiswildernessofanhotelwithstoresaboutitsbase，likesomeContinentaltheatre，ortheLondonOperaHouseshornofitscolonnade，plungeintotheFivePoints。

Butitisneedful，first，thatwetakeasourescortthesetwoheadsofthepolice，whomyouwouldknowforsharpandwell-trainedofficersifyoumetthemintheGreatDesert。Sotrueitis，thatcertainpursuits，wherevercarriedon，willstampmenwiththesamecharacter。Thesetwomighthavebeenbegotten，born，andbred，inBowStreet。

Wehaveseennobeggarsinthestreetsbynightorday；butofotherkindsofstrollers，plenty。Poverty，wretchedness，andvice，arerifeenoughwherewearegoingnow。

Thisistheplace:thesenarrowways，divergingtotherightandleft，andreekingeverywherewithdirtandfilth。Suchlivesasareledhere，bearthesamefruitshereaselsewhere。Thecoarseandbloatedfacesatthedoors，havecounterpartsathome，andallthewideworldover。Debaucheryhasmadetheveryhousesprematurelyold。Seehowtherottenbeamsaretumblingdown，andhowthepatchedandbrokenwindowsseemtoscowldimly，likeeyesthathavebeenhurtindrunkenfrays。Manyofthosepigslivehere。Dotheyeverwonderwhytheirmasterswalkuprightinlieuofgoingonall-fours？andwhytheytalkinsteadofgrunting？

Sofar，nearlyeveryhouseisalowtavern；andonthebar-roomwalls，arecolouredprintsofWashington，andQueenVictoriaofEngland，andtheAmericanEagle。Amongthepigeon-holesthatholdthebottles，arepiecesofplate-glassandcolouredpaper，forthereis，insomesort，atastefordecoration，evenhere。Andasseamenfrequentthesehaunts，therearemaritimepicturesbythedozen:ofpartingsbetweensailorsandtheirlady-loves，portraitsofWilliam，oftheballad，andhisBlack-EyedSusan；ofWillWatch，theBoldSmuggler；ofPaulJonesthePirate，andthelike:onwhichthepaintedeyesofQueenVictoria，andofWashingtontoboot，restinasstrangecompanionship，asonmostofthescenesthatareenactedintheirwonderingpresence。

Whatplaceisthis，towhichthesqualidstreetconductsus？A

kindofsquareofleproushouses，someofwhichareattainableonlybycrazywoodenstairswithout。Whatliesbeyondthistotteringflightofsteps，thatcreakbeneathourtread？-amiserableroom，lightedbyonedimcandle，anddestituteofallcomfort，savethatwhichmaybehiddeninawretchedbed。Besideit，sitsaman:hiselbowsonhisknees:hisforeheadhiddeninhishands。"Whatailsthatman？"askstheforemostofficer。"Fever，"hesullenlyreplies，withoutlookingup。Conceivethefanciesofafeverishbrain，insuchaplaceasthis!

Ascendthesepitch-darkstairs，heedfulofafalsefootingonthetremblingboards，andgropeyourwaywithmeintothiswolfishden，whereneitherrayoflightnorbreathofair，appearstocome。A

negrolad，startledfromhissleepbytheofficer"svoice-heknowsitwell-butcomfortedbyhisassurancethathehasnotcomeonbusiness，officiouslybestirshimselftolightacandle。Thematchflickersforamoment，andshowsgreatmoundsofdustyragsupontheground；thendiesawayandleavesadenserdarknessthanbefore，iftherecanbedegreesinsuchextremes。Hestumblesdownthestairsandpresentlycomesback，shadingaflaringtaperwithhishand。Thenthemoundsofragsareseentobeastir，andriseslowlyup，andtheflooriscoveredwithheapsofnegrowomen，wakingfromtheirsleep:theirwhiteteethchattering，andtheirbrighteyesglisteningandwinkingonallsideswithsurpriseandfear，likethecountlessrepetitionofoneastonishedAfricanfaceinsomestrangemirror。

Mountuptheseotherstairswithnolesscaution(therearetrapsandpitfallshere，forthosewhoarenotsowellescortedasourselves)intothehousetop；wherethebarebeamsandraftersmeetoverhead，andcalmnightlooksdownthroughthecrevicesintheroof。Openthedoorofoneofthesecrampedhutchesfullofsleepingnegroes。Pah!Theyhaveacharcoalfirewithin；thereisasmellofsingeingclothes，orflesh，soclosetheygatherroundthebrazier；andvapoursissueforththatblindandsuffocate。

Fromeverycorner，asyouglanceaboutyouinthesedarkretreats，somefigurecrawlshalf-awakened，asifthejudgment-hourwerenearathand，andeveryobscenegraveweregivingupitsdead。Wheredogswouldhowltolie，women，andmen，andboysslinkofftosleep，forcingthedislodgedratstomoveawayinquestofbetterlodgings。

Heretooarelanesandalleys，pavedwithmudknee-deep，undergroundchambers，wheretheydanceandgame；thewallsbedeckedwithroughdesignsofships，andforts，andflags，andAmericaneaglesoutofnumber:ruinedhouses，opentothestreet，whence，throughwidegapsinthewalls，otherruinsloomupontheeye，asthoughtheworldofviceandmiseryhadnothingelsetoshow:

hideoustenementswhichtaketheirnamefromrobberyandmurder:

allthatisloathsome，drooping，anddecayedishere。

Ourleaderhashishanduponthelatchof"Almack"s，"andcallstousfromthebottomofthesteps；fortheassembly-roomoftheFivePointfashionablesisapproachedbyadescent。Shallwegoin？Itisbutamoment。

Heyday!thelandladyofAlmack"sthrives!Abuxomfatmulattowoman，withsparklingeyes，whoseheadisdaintilyornamentedwithahandkerchiefofmanycolours。Noristhelandlordmuchbehindherinhisfinery，beingattiredinasmartbluejacket，likeaship"ssteward，withathickgoldringuponhislittlefinger，androundhisneckagleaminggoldenwatch-guard。Howgladheistoseeus!Whatwillwepleasetocallfor？Adance？Itshallbedonedirectly，sir:"aregularbreak-down。"

Thecorpulentblackfiddler，andhisfriendwhoplaysthetambourine，stampupontheboardingofthesmallraisedorchestrainwhichtheysit，andplayalivelymeasure。Fiveorsixcouplecomeuponthefloor，marshalledbyalivelyyoungnegro，whoisthewitoftheassembly，andthegreatestdancerknown。Heneverleavesoffmakingqueerfaces，andisthedelightofalltherest，whogrinfromeartoearincessantly。Amongthedancersaretwoyoungmulattogirls，withlarge，black，droopingeyes，andhead-

gearafterthefashionofthehostess，whoareasshy，orfeigntobe，asthoughtheyneverdancedbefore，andsolookdownbeforethevisitors，thattheirpartnerscanseenothingbutthelongfringedlashes。

Butthedancecommences。Everygentlemansetsaslongashelikestotheoppositelady，andtheoppositeladytohim，andallaresolongaboutitthatthesportbeginstolanguish，whensuddenlythelivelyherodashesintotherescue。Instantlythefiddlergrins，andgoesatittoothandnail；thereisnewenergyinthetambourine；newlaughterinthedancers；newsmilesinthelandlady；newconfidenceinthelandlord；newbrightnessintheverycandles。

Singleshuffle，doubleshuffle，cutandcross-cut；snappinghisfingers，rollinghiseyes，turninginhisknees，presentingthebacksofhislegsinfront，spinningaboutonhistoesandheelslikenothingbuttheman"sfingersonthetambourine；dancingwithtwoleftlegs，tworightlegs，twowoodenlegs，twowirelegs，twospringlegs-allsortsoflegsandnolegs-whatisthistohim？

Andinwhatwalkoflife，ordanceoflife，doesmanevergetsuchstimulatingapplauseasthundersabouthim，when，havingdancedhispartneroffherfeet，andhimselftoo，hefinishesbyleapinggloriouslyonthebar-counter，andcallingforsomethingtodrink，withthechuckleofamillionofcounterfeitJimCrows，inoneinimitablesound!

Theair，eveninthesedistemperedparts，isfreshafterthestiflingatmosphereofthehouses；andnow，asweemergeintoabroaderstreet，itblowsuponuswithapurerbreath，andthestarslookbrightagain。HereareTheTombsoncemore。Thecitywatch-

houseisapartofthebuilding。Itfollowsnaturallyonthesightswehavejustleft。Letusseethat，andthentobed。

What!doyouthrustyourcommonoffendersagainstthepolicedisciplineofthetown，intosuchholesasthese？Domenandwomen，againstwhomnocrimeisproved，liehereallnightinperfectdarkness，surroundedbythenoisomevapourswhichencirclethatflagginglampyoulightuswith，andbreathingthisfilthyandoffensivestench!Why，suchindecentanddisgustingdungeonsasthesecells，wouldbringdisgraceuponthemostdespoticempireintheworld!Lookatthem，man-you，whoseethemeverynight，andkeepthekeys。Doyouseewhattheyare？Doyouknowhowdrainsaremadebelowthestreets，andwhereinthesehumansewersdiffer，exceptinbeingalwaysstagnant？

Well，hedon"tknow。Hehashadfive-and-twentyyoungwomenlockedupinthisverycellatonetime，andyou"dhardlyrealisewhathandsomefacestherewereamong"em。

InGod"sname!shutthedooruponthewretchedcreaturewhoisinitnow，andputitsscreenbeforeaplace，quiteunsurpassedinallthevice，neglect，anddevilry，oftheworstoldtowninEurope。

Arepeoplereallyleftallnight，untried，inthoseblacksties？-

Everynight。Thewatchissetatsevenintheevening。Themagistrateopenshiscourtatfiveinthemorning。Thatistheearliesthouratwhichthefirstprisonercanbereleased；andifanofficerappearagainsthim，heisnottakenouttillnineo"clockorten-Butifanyoneamongthemdieintheinterval，asonemandid，notlongago？Thenheishalf-eatenbytheratsinanhour"stime；asthatmanwas；andthereanend。

Whatisthisintolerabletollingofgreatbells，andcrashingofwheels，andshoutinginthedistance？Afire。Andwhatthatdeepredlightintheoppositedirection？Anotherfire。Andwhatthesecharredandblackenedwallswestandbefore？Adwellingwhereafirehasbeen。Itwasmorethanhinted，inanofficialreport，notlongago，thatsomeoftheseconflagrationswerenotwhollyaccidental，andthatspeculationandenterprisefoundafieldofexertion，eveninflames:butbethisasitmay，therewasafirelastnight，therearetwoto-night，andyoumaylayanevenwagertherewillbeatleastone，to-morrow。So，carryingthatwithusforourcomfort，letussay，Goodnight，andclimbup-stairstobed。

Oneday，duringmystayinNewYork，IpaidavisittothedifferentpublicinstitutionsonLongIsland，orRhodeIsland:I

forgetwhich。OneofthemisaLunaticAsylum。Thebuildingishandsome；andisremarkableforaspaciousandelegantstaircase。

Thewholestructureisnotyetfinished，butitisalreadyoneofconsiderablesizeandextent，andiscapableofaccommodatingaverylargenumberofpatients。

IcannotsaythatIderivedmuchcomfortfromtheinspectionofthischarity。Thedifferentwardsmighthavebeencleanerandbetterordered；Isawnothingofthatsalutarysystemwhichhadimpressedmesofavourablyelsewhere；andeverythinghadalounging，listless，madhouseair，whichwasverypainful。Themopingidiot，coweringdownwithlongdishevelledhair；thegibberingmaniac，withhishideouslaughandpointedfinger；thevacanteye，thefiercewildface，thegloomypickingofthehandsandlips，andmunchingofthenails:theretheywereall，withoutdisguise，innakeduglinessandhorror。Inthedining-room，abare，dull，drearyplace，withnothingfortheeyetorestonbuttheemptywalls，awomanwaslockedupalone。Shewasbent，theytoldme，oncommittingsuicide。Ifanythingcouldhavestrengthenedherinherresolution，itwouldcertainlyhavebeentheinsupportablemonotonyofsuchanexistence。

Theterriblecrowdwithwhichthesehallsandgallerieswerefilled，soshockedme，thatIabridgedmystaywithintheshortestlimits，anddeclinedtoseethatportionofthebuildinginwhichtherefractoryandviolentwereundercloserrestraint。IhavenodoubtthatthegentlemanwhopresidedoverthisestablishmentatthetimeIwriteof，wascompetenttomanageit，andhaddoneallinhispowertopromoteitsusefulness:butwillitbebelievedthatthemiserablestrifeofPartyfeelingiscarriedevenintothissadrefugeofafflictedanddegradedhumanity？Willitbebelievedthattheeyeswhicharetowatchoverandcontrolthewanderingsofmindsonwhichthemostdreadfulvisitationtowhichournatureisexposedhasfallen，mustweartheglassesofsomewretchedsideinPolitics？Willitbebelievedthatthegovernorofsuchahouseasthis，isappointed，anddeposed，andchangedperpetually，asPartiesfluctuateandvary，andastheirdespicableweathercocksareblownthiswayorthat？Ahundredtimesineveryweek，somenewmostpaltryexhibitionofthatnarrow-mindedandinjuriousPartySpirit，whichistheSimoomofAmerica，sickeningandblightingeverythingofwholesomelifewithinitsreach，wasforceduponmynotice；butIneverturnedmybackuponitwithfeelingsofsuchdeepdisgustandmeasurelesscontempt，aswhenI

crossedthethresholdofthismadhouse。

AtashortdistancefromthisbuildingisanothercalledtheAlmsHouse，thatistosay，theworkhouseofNewYork。ThisisalargeInstitutionalso:lodging，Ibelieve，whenIwasthere，nearlyathousandpoor。Itwasbadlyventilated，andbadlylighted；wasnottooclean；-andimpressedme，onthewhole，veryuncomfortably。

ButitmustberememberedthatNewYork，asagreatemporiumofcommerce，andasaplaceofgeneralresort，notonlyfromallpartsoftheStates，butfrommostpartsoftheworld，hasalwaysalargepauperpopulationtoprovidefor；andlabours，therefore，underpeculiardifficultiesinthisrespect。NormustitbeforgottenthatNewYorkisalargetown，andthatinalllargetownsavastamountofgoodandevilisintermixedandjumbleduptogether。

InthesameneighbourhoodistheFarm，whereyoungorphansarenursedandbred。Ididnotseeit，butIbelieveitiswellconducted；andIcanthemoreeasilycreditit，fromknowinghowmindfultheyusuallyare，inAmerica，ofthatbeautifulpassageintheLitanywhichremembersallsickpersonsandyoungchildren。

IwastakentotheseInstitutionsbywater，inaboatbelongingtotheIslandjail，androwedbyacrewofprisoners，whoweredressedinastripeduniformofblackandbuff，inwhichtheylookedlikefadedtigers。Theytookme，bythesameconveyance，tothejailitself。

Itisanoldprison，andquiteapioneerestablishment，ontheplanIhavealreadydescribed。Iwasgladtohearthis，foritisunquestionablyaveryindifferentone。Themostismade，however，ofthemeansitpossesses，anditisaswellregulatedassuchaplacecanbe。

Thewomenworkincoveredsheds，erectedforthatpurpose。IfI

rememberright，therearenoshopsforthemen，butbethatasitmay，thegreaterpartofthemlabourincertainstone-quarriesnearathand。Thedaybeingverywetindeed，thislabourwassuspended，andtheprisonerswereintheircells。Imaginethesecells，sometwoorthreehundredinnumber，andineveryoneamanlockedup；

thisoneathisdoorforair，withhishandsthrustthroughthegrate；thisoneinbed(inthemiddleoftheday，remember)；andthisoneflungdowninaheapupontheground，withhisheadagainstthebars，likeawildbeast。Maketherainpourdown，outside，intorrents。Puttheeverlastingstoveinthemidst；hot，andsuffocating，andvaporous，asawitch"scauldron。Addacollectionofgentleodours，suchaswouldarisefromathousandmildewedumbrellas，wetthrough，andathousandbuck-baskets，fullofhalf-washedlinen-andthereistheprison，asitwasthatday。

TheprisonfortheStateatSingSingis，ontheotherhand，amodeljail。That，andAuburn，are，Ibelieve，thelargestandbestexamplesofthesilentsystem。

Inanotherpartofthecity，istheRefugefortheDestitute:anInstitutionwhoseobjectistoreclaimyouthfuloffenders，maleandfemale，blackandwhite，withoutdistinction；toteachthemusefultrades，apprenticethemtorespectablemasters，andmakethemworthymembersofsociety。Itsdesign，itwillbeseen，issimilartothatatBoston；anditisanolessmeritoriousandadmirableestablishment。Asuspicioncrossedmymindduringmyinspectionofthisnoblecharity，whetherthesuperintendenthadquitesufficientknowledgeoftheworldandworldlycharacters；andwhetherhedidnotcommitagreatmistakeintreatingsomeyounggirls，whoweretoallintentsandpurposes，bytheiryearsandtheirpastlives，women，asthoughtheywerelittlechildren；whichcertainlyhadaludicrouseffectinmyeyes，and，orIammuchmistaken，intheirsalso。AstheInstitution，however，isalwaysunderavigilantexaminationofabodyofgentlemenofgreatintelligenceandexperience，itcannotfailtobewellconducted；andwhetherIamrightorwronginthisslightparticular，isunimportanttoitsdesertsandcharacter，whichitwouldbedifficulttoestimatetoohighly。

Inadditiontotheseestablishments，thereareinNewYork，excellenthospitalsandschools，literaryinstitutionsandlibraries；anadmirablefiredepartment(asindeeditshouldbe，havingconstantpractice)，andcharitiesofeverysortandkind。

Inthesuburbsthereisaspaciouscemetery:unfinishedyet，buteverydayimproving。ThesaddesttombIsawtherewas"TheStrangers"Grave。Dedicatedtothedifferenthotelsinthiscity。"

Therearethreeprincipaltheatres。Twoofthem，theParkandtheBowery，arelarge，elegant，andhandsomebuildings，andare，I

grievetowriteit，generallydeserted。Thethird，theOlympic，isatinyshow-boxforvaudevillesandburlesques。ItissingularlywellconductedbyMr。Mitchell，acomicactorofgreatquiethumourandoriginality，whoiswellrememberedandesteemedbyLondonplaygoers。Iamhappytoreportofthisdeservinggentleman，thathisbenchesareusuallywellfilled，andthathistheatreringswithmerrimenteverynight。Ihadalmostforgottenasmallsummertheatre，calledNiblo"s，withgardensandopenairamusementsattached；butIbelieveitisnotexemptfromthegeneraldepressionunderwhichTheatricalProperty，orwhatishumorouslycalledbythatname，unfortunatelylabours。

ThecountryroundNewYorkissurpassinglyandexquisitelypicturesque。Theclimate，asIhavealreadyintimated，issomewhatofthewarmest。Whatitwouldbe，withouttheseabreezeswhichcomefromitsbeautifulBayintheeveningtime，Iwillnotthrowmyselformyreadersintoafeverbyinquiring。

Thetoneofthebestsocietyinthiscity，islikethatofBoston；

hereandthere，itmaybe，withagreaterinfusionofthemercantilespirit，butgenerallypolishedandrefined，andalwaysmosthospitable。Thehousesandtablesareelegant；thehourslaterandmorerakish；andthereis，perhaps，agreaterspiritofcontentioninreferencetoappearances，andthedisplayofwealthandcostlyliving。Theladiesaresingularlybeautiful。

BeforeIleftNewYorkImadearrangementsforsecuringapassagehomeintheGeorgeWashingtonpacketship，whichwasadvertisedtosailinJune:thatbeingthemonthinwhichIhaddetermined，ifpreventedbynoaccidentinthecourseofmyramblings，toleaveAmerica。

IneverthoughtthatgoingbacktoEngland，returningtoallwhoaredeartome，andtopursuitsthathaveinsensiblygrowntobeapartofmynature，IcouldhavefeltsomuchsorrowasIendured，whenIpartedatlast，onboardthisship，withthefriendswhohadaccompaniedmefromthiscity。Ineverthoughtthenameofanyplace，sofarawayandsolatelyknown，couldeverassociateitselfinmymindwiththecrowdofaffectionateremembrancesthatnowclusteraboutit。Therearethoseinthiscitywhowouldbrighten，tome，thedarkestwinter-daythateverglimmeredandwentoutinLapland；andbeforewhosepresenceevenHomegrewdim，whentheyandIexchangedthatpainfulwordwhichmingleswithoureverythoughtanddeed；whichhauntsourcradle-headsininfancy，andclosesupthevistaofourlivesinage。

CHAPTERVII-PHILADELPHIA，ANDITSSOLITARYPRISON

THEjourneyfromNewYorktoPhiladelphia，ismadebyrailroad，andtwoferries；andusuallyoccupiesbetweenfiveandsixhours。Itwasafineeveningwhenwewerepassengersinthetrain:andwatchingthebrightsunsetfromalittlewindownearthedoorbywhichwesat，myattentionwasattractedtoaremarkableappearanceissuingfromthewindowsofthegentleman"scarimmediatelyinfrontofus，whichIsupposedforsometimewasoccasionedbyanumberofindustriouspersonsinside，rippingopenfeather-beds，andgivingthefeatherstothewind。Atlengthitoccurredtomethattheywereonlyspitting，whichwasindeedthecase；thoughhowanynumberofpassengerswhichitwaspossibleforthatcartocontain，couldhavemaintainedsuchaplayfulandincessantshowerofexpectoration，Iamstillatalosstounderstand:

notwithstandingtheexperienceinallsalivatoryphenomenawhichI

afterwardsacquired。

Imadeacquaintance，onthisjourney，withamildandmodestyoungquaker，whoopenedthediscoursebyinformingme，inagravewhisper，thathisgrandfatherwastheinventorofcold-drawncastoroil。Imentionthecircumstancehere，thinkingitprobablethatthisisthefirstoccasiononwhichthevaluablemedicineinquestionwaseverusedasaconversationalaperient。

Wereachedthecity，latethatnight。Lookingoutofmychamber-

window，beforegoingtobed，Isaw，ontheoppositesideoftheway，ahandsomebuildingofwhitemarble，whichhadamournfulghost-likeaspect，drearytobehold。Iattributedthistothesombreinfluenceofthenight，andonrisinginthemorninglookedoutagain，expectingtoseeitsstepsandporticothrongedwithgroupsofpeoplepassinginandout。Thedoorwasstilltightshut，however；thesamecoldcheerlessairprevailed:andthebuildinglookedasifthemarblestatueofDonGuzmancouldalonehaveanybusinesstotransactwithinitsgloomywalls。Ihastenedtoinquireitsnameandpurpose，andthenmysurprisevanished。ItwastheTombofmanyfortunes；theGreatCatacombofinvestment；

thememorableUnitedStatesBank。

Thestoppageofthisbank，withallitsruinousconsequences，hadcast(asIwastoldoneveryside)agloomonPhiladelphia，underthedepressingeffectofwhichityetlaboured。Itcertainlydidseemratherdullandoutofspirits。

Itisahandsomecity，butdistractinglyregular。Afterwalkingaboutitforanhourortwo，IfeltthatIwouldhavegiventheworldforacrookedstreet。Thecollarofmycoatappearedtostiffen，andthebrimofmybattoexpand，beneathitsquakeryinfluence。Myhairshrunkintoasleekshortcrop，myhandsfoldedthemselvesuponmybreastoftheirowncalmaccord，andthoughtsoftakinglodgingsinMarkLaneoveragainsttheMarketPlace，andofmakingalargefortunebyspeculationsincorn，cameovermeinvoluntarily。

Philadelphiaismostbountifullyprovidedwithfreshwater，whichisshoweredandjerkedabout，andturnedon，andpouredoff，everywhere。TheWaterworks，whichareonaheightnearthecity，arenolessornamentalthanuseful，beingtastefullylaidoutasapublicgarden，andkeptinthebestandneatestorder。Theriverisdammedatthispoint，andforcedbyitsownpowerintocertainhightanksorreservoirs，whencethewholecity，tothetopstoriesofthehouses，issuppliedataverytriflingexpense。

Therearevariouspublicinstitutions。AmongthemamostexcellentHospital-aquakerestablishment，butnotsectarianinthegreatbenefitsitconfers；aquiet，quaintoldLibrary，namedafterFranklin；ahandsomeExchangeandPostOffice；andsoforth。InconnectionwiththequakerHospital，thereisapicturebyWest，whichisexhibitedforthebenefitofthefundsoftheinstitution。

Thesubjectis，ourSaviourhealingthesick，anditis，perhaps，asfavourableaspecimenofthemasterascanbeseenanywhere。

Whetherthisbehighorlowpraise，dependsuponthereader"staste。

Inthesameroom，thereisaverycharacteristicandlife-likeportraitbyMr。Sully，adistinguishedAmericanartist。

MystayinPhiladelphiawasveryshort，butwhatIsawofitssociety，Igreatlyliked。Treatingofitsgeneralcharacteristics，IshouldbedisposedtosaythatitismoreprovincialthanBostonorNewYork，andthatthereisafloatinthefaircity，anassumptionoftasteandcriticism，savouringratherofthosegenteeldiscussionsuponthesamethemes，inconnectionwithShakspeareandtheMusicalGlasses，ofwhichwereadintheVicarofWakefield。Nearthecity，isamostsplendidunfinishedmarblestructurefortheGirardCollege，foundedbyadeceasedgentlemanofthatnameandofenormouswealth，which，ifcompletedaccordingtotheoriginaldesign，willbeperhapstherichestedificeofmoderntimes。Butthebequestisinvolvedinlegaldisputes，andpendingthemtheworkhasstopped；sothatlikemanyothergreatundertakingsinAmerica，eventhisisrathergoingtobedoneoneofthesedays，thandoingnow。