第6章

couldobtainnosatisfactoryinformationonthispoint。

Itisdifficulttoimagineanythingmorelaboriousthantowanderaboutinthiscavern。Astheroadhadsheweditselfattheentranceofthecavern，soitcontinuedthroughoutitswholeextent。Thepathconsistedentirelyofloosefragmentsoflavaheapedoneupontheother，overwhichwehadtoclamberwithgreatlabour。Noneofuscouldaffordtohelptheothers；eachonewasfullyoccupiedwithhimself。Therewasnotasinglespottobeseenonwhichwecouldhavestoodwithoutholdingfastatthesametimewithourhands。Weweresometimesobligedtoseatourselvesonastone，andsotoslidedown；atothers，totakehandsandpulloneanothertothetopofhighblocksofstone。

Wecametoseveralimmensebasins，orcraters，whichopenedaboveourheads，butwereinaccessible，thesidesbeingtoosteepforustoclimb。Thelightwhichenteredthroughtheseopeningswasscarcelyenoughtoilluminetheprincipalpath，muchlessthenumerousby-paths。

AtKalmannstungaIhadendeavouredtoprocuretorches，butwasobligedtoconsidermyselffortunateingettingafewtapers。ItisnecessarytoprovideoneselfwithtorchesatReikjavik。

Thepartsofthecavernbeneaththeopencraterswerestillcoveredwithaconsiderablequantityofsnow，bywhichourprogresswasrenderedverydangerous。Wefrequentlysunkin，andatothertimescaughtourfeetbetweenthestones，sothatwecouldscarcelymaintainourbalance。Intheby-pathssituatedneartheseopeningsanicyrindhadformeditself，whichwasnowcoveredwithwater。

Fartheron，theicehadmelted；butitwasgenerallyverydirty，asastratumofsandmixedwithwaterlaythereinplaceofthestones。

Thechiefpathalonewascoveredwithblocksoflava；inthesmallerpathsIfoundonlystrataofsandandsmallpiecesoflava。

Themagicalilluminationproducedbythesun"sraysshiningthroughoneofthesecratersintothecavernproducedasplendideffect。

Thesunshoneperpendicularlythroughtheopening，spreadadazzlingradianceoverthesnow，anddiffusedapaledelicatelightaroundus。Theeffectofthispointofdazzlinglightwasthemoreremarkablefromitscontrastingstronglywiththetwodarkchasms，fromthefirstofwhichwehademergedtocontinueourjourneythroughtheobscurityofthesecond。

Thissubterraneanlabyrinthissaidtoextendindifferentdirectionsformanymiles。Weexploredaportionofthechiefpathandseveralby-paths，andafteramarchoftwohoursreturnedheartilytiredtotheupperworld。Wethenrestedaquarterofanhour，andafterwardsreturnedatagoodroundpacetoKalmannstunga。

UnfortunatelyIdonotpossesssufficientgeognosticknowledgetobeabletosetthiscaverndownasanextinctvolcano。Butintravellinginacountrywhereeveryhillandmountain，everythingaround，infact，consistsoflava，eventheuninitiatedinscienceseekstodiscovertheopeningswhencetheseimmensemasseshavepoured。Thestrangercuriouslyregardsthetopofeachmountain，thinkingeverywheretobeholdacrater，butbothhillanddaleappearsmoothandclosed。Withwhatjoythendoeshehailthethoughtofhavingdiscovered，inthiscavern，somethingtothrowlightuponthesourcesofthesethings!I，atleast，fanciedmyselfwalkingonthehearthofanextinctvolcano；forallIsaw，fromthemassesofstonepiledbeneathmyfeetandtheimmensebasinabovemyhead，werebothoflava。IfIamrightinmyconjecture，Idonotknow；Ionlyspeakaccordingtomynotionsandmyviews。

Iwasobligedtopassthisnightinacottage。Kalmannstungacontainsthreesuchcottages，butnochapel。LuckilyIfoundoneofthesehousessomewhatlargerandmorecleanlythanitsneighbours；

itcouldalmostcomeunderthedenominationofafarm。Theoccupants，too，hadbeenemployedduringmyridetothecavernincleansingthebestchamber，andpreparingit，asfaraspossible，formyreception。Theroominquestionwaselevenfeetlongbysevenbroad；thewindowwassosmallandsocoveredwithdirtthat，althoughthesunwasshininginitsfullglory，Icouldscarcelyseetowrite。Thewalls，andeventhefloor，wereboarded——agreatpieceofluxuryinacountrywherewoodissoscarce。Thefurnitureconsistedofabroadbedstead，twochestsofdrawers，andasmalltable。ChairsandbenchesareakindofterraincognitainthedwellingsoftheIcelandicpeasantry；besides，IdonotknowwheresucharticlescouldbestowedinaroomofsuchdimensionsasthatwhichIoccupied。

Myhostess，thewidowofawealthypeasant，introducedtomeherfourchildren，whowereveryhandsome，andveryneatlydressed。I

beggedthegoodmothertotellmethenamesoftheyoungones，sothatImightatleastknowafewIcelandicnames。Sheappearedmuchflatteredatmyrequest，andgavemethenamesasfollows:

Sigrudur，Gudrun，Ingebor，andLars。

Ishouldhavefelttolerablycomfortableinmypresentquarters，accustomedasIamtobearprivationsofallkindswithindifference，iftheywouldbuthaveleftmeinpeace。Butthereadermayfancymyhorrorwhenthewholepopulation，notonlyofthecottageitself，butalsooftheneighbouringdwellings，madetheirappearance，and，plantingthemselvespartlyinmychamberandpartlyatthedoor，heldmeinafarcloserstateofsiegethanevenatKrisuvik。Iwas，itappeared，quiteanovelphenomenonintheeyesofthesegoodpeople，andsotheycameoneandallandstaredatme；thewomenandchildrenwere，inparticular，mostunpleasantlyfamiliar；theyfeltmydress，andthelittleoneslaidtheirdirtylittlecountenancesinmylap。Addedtothis，theconfinedatmospherefromthenumberofpersonspresent，theirlamentablewantofcleanliness，andtheirfilthyhabitofspitting，&c。，allcombinedtoformamostdreadfulwhole。DuringthesevisitsIdidmorepenancethanbythelongestfasts；andfasting，too，wasanexerciseIseldomescaped，asIcouldtouchfewIcelandicdishes。

ThecookeryoftheIcelandicpeasantsiswhollyconfinedtothepreparationofdriedfish，withwhichtheyeatfermentedmilkthathasoftenbeenkeptformonths；onveryrareoccasionstheyhaveapreparationofbarley-meal，whichiseatenwithflatbreadbakedfromIcelandicmossgroundfine。

Icouldnotbutwonderatthefactthatmostofthesepeopleexpectedtofindmeacquaintedwithanumberofthingsgenerallystudiedonlybymen；theyseemedtohaveanotionthatinforeignpartswomenshouldbeaslearnedasmen。So，forinstance，thepriestsalwaysinquiredifIspokeLatin，andseemedmuchsurprisedonfindingthatIwasunacquaintedwiththelanguage。Thecommonpeoplerequestedmyadviceastothemodeoftreatingdiverscomplaints；andonce，inthecourseofoneofmysolitarywanderingsaboutReikjavik，onmyenteringacottage，theybroughtbeforemeabeingwhomIshouldscarcelyhaverecognisedasbelongingtothesamespeciesasmyself，sofearfullywashedisfiguredbytheeruptioncalled"lepra。"Notonlytheface，butthewholebodyalsowascoveredwithit；thepatientwasquiteemaciated，andsomepartsofhisbodywerecoveredwithsores。Forasurgeonthismighthavebeenaninterestingsight，butIturnedawayindisgust。

Butletusturnfromthispicture。Iwouldrathertelloftheangel"sfaceIsawinKalmannstunga。Itwasagirl，tenortwelveyearsofage，beautifulandlovelybeyonddescription，sothatI

wishedIhadbeenapainter。HowgladlywouldIhavetakenhomewithmetomyownland，ifonlyoncanvass，thedelicateface，withitsroguishdimplesandspeakingeyes!Butperhapsitisbetterasitis；thepicturemightbysomeunluckychancehavefallenintothehandsofsometoo-susceptibleyouth，who，likeDonSylviodeRosalva，inWieland"sComicalRomance，wouldimmediatelyhaveproceededtotravelthroughhalftheworldtofindtheoriginalofthisenchantingportrait。HisspiritofinquirywouldscarcelyhavecarriedhimtoIceland，assuchanapparitionwouldneverbesuspectedtoexistinsuchacountry，andthustheunhappyyouthwouldbedoomedtoendlesswandering。

June20th。

ThedistancefromKalmannstungatoThingvallaisfifty-twomiles，andthejourneyiscertainlyoneofthemostdrearyandfatiguingofallthatcanbemadeinIceland。Thetravellerpassesfromonedesertvalleyintoanother；heisalwayssurroundedbyhighmountainsandstillhigherglaciers，andwhereverheturnshiseyes，natureseemstorpidanddead。Afeelingofanxiousdiscomfortseizesuponthewanderer，hehastenswithredoubledspeedthroughthefar-stretcheddeserts，andeagerlyascendsthemountainspiledupbeforehim，inthehopethatbetterthingsliebeyond。Itisinvain；heonlyseesthesamesolitudes，thesamedeserts，thesamemountains。

Ontheelevatedplateauxseveralplaceswerestillcoveredwithsnow；thesewewereobligedtocross，thoughwecouldfrequentlyheartherushingofthewaterbeneathitssnowycovering。Wewerecompelledalsotopassovercoatingsoficespreadlightlyoverrivers，andpresentingthatbluecolourwhichisacertainsignofdanger。

Ourpoorhorsesweresometimesveryrestive；butitwasofnouse；

theywerebeatenwithoutmercyuntiltheycarriedusoverthedangerousplaces。Thepack-horsewasalwaysdrivenoninfrontwithmanyblows；ithadtoserveaspioneer，andtryiftheroadwaspracticable。Nextcamemyguide，andIbroughtuptherear。Ourpoorhorsesfrequentlysankuptotheirkneesinthesnow，andtwiceuptothesaddle-girths。ThiswasoneofthemostdangerousridesI

haveeverhad。IcouldnothelpcontinuallythinkingwhatIshoulddoifmyguideweretosinkinsodeeplythathecouldnotextricatehimself；mystrengthwouldnothavebeensufficienttorescuehim，andwhithershouldIturntoseekforhelp?Allarounduswasnothingbutadesertandsnow。Perhapsmylotmighthavebeentodieofhunger。Ishouldhavewanderedaboutseekingdwellingsandhumanbeings，andhaveentangledmyselfsocompletelyamongthesewastesthatIcouldneverhavefoundmyway。

WhenatadistanceIdescriedanewfieldofsnow(andunfortunatelywecameuponthembuttoofrequently)，Ifeltveryuncomfortable；

thosealonewhohavethemselvesbeeninasimilarsituationcanestimatethewholeextentofmyanxiety。

IfIhadbeentravellingincompanywithothers，thesefearswouldnothavedisturbedme；fortherereciprocalassistancecanberendered，andtheconsciousnessofthisfactseemsmateriallytodiminishthedanger。

Duringtheseasoninwhichthesnowceasestoformasecurecovering，thisroadisbutlittletravelled。Wesawnowhereatraceoffootsteps，eitherofmenoranimals；weweretheonlylivingbeingsinthisdreadfulregion。Icertainlyscoldedmyguideroundlyforbringingmebysucharoad。ButwhatdidIgainbythis?Itwouldhavebeenasdangeroustoturnbackastogoon。

Achangeintheweather，whichtillnowhadbeenratherfavourable，increasedthedifficultiesofthisjourney。AlreadywhenweleftKalmannstunga，theskybegantobeovercast，andthesunenliveneduswithitsraysonlyforafewminutesatatime。Onourreachingthehighermountainstheweatherbecameworse；forhereweencounteredcloudsandfog，whichwreakedtheirvengeanceuponus，andwhichonlycareeredbytomakeroomforothers。Anicystormfromtheneighbouringglacierswastheirconstantcompanion，andmademeshiversomuchthatIcouldscarcelykeepmysaddle。Wehadnowriddenabovethirteenhours。Therainpoureddownincessantly，andwewerehalfdeadwithcoldandwet；soIatlengthdeterminedtohaltforthenightatthefirstcottage:atlastwefoundonebetweentwoorthreemilesfromThingvalla。Ihadnowaroofabovemyhead；butbeyondthisIhadgainednothing。Thecottageconsistedofasingleroom，andwasalmostcompletelyfilledbyfourbroadbedsteads。Icountedsevenadultsandthreechildren，whohadalltobeaccommodatedinthesefourbeds。Inadditiontothis，thekvef，akindofcroup，prevailedthisspringtosuchanextentthatscarcelyanyoneescapedit。WhereverIwent，Ifoundthepeopleafflictedwiththiscomplaint；andherethiswasalsothecase；thenoiseofgroaningandcoughingonallsideswasquitedeplorable。

Thefloor，moreover，wasrevoltinglydirty。

Thegoodpeopleweresokindasimmediatelytoplaceoneoftheirbedsatmydisposal；butIwouldratherhavepassedthenightonthethresholdofthedoorthaninthisdisgustinghole。Ichoseformylodging-placethenarrowpassagewhichseparatedthekitchenfromtheroom；Ifoundthereacoupleofblocks，acrosswhichafewboardshadbeenlaid，andthisconstitutedthemilk-room:itmighthavebeenmoreproperlycalledthesmoke-room；forintheroofwereafewair-holes，throughwhichthesmokeescaped。Inthissmokeormilk-room——whicheveritmaybecalled——IpreparedtopassthenightasbestIcould。Mycloakbeingwetthrough，Ihadbeencompelledtohangitonasticktodry；andthusfoundmyselfunderthenecessityofborrowingamattressfromtheseunhealthypeople。I

laidmyselfdownboldly，andpretendedsleepiness，inordertodelivermyselffromthecuriosityofmyentertainers。Theyretiredtotheirroom，andsoIwasaloneandundisturbed。ButyetIcouldnotsleep；thecoldwind，blowinginuponmethroughtheair-holes，chilledandwettedasIalreadywas，keptmeawakeagainstmywill。

Ihadalsoanothermisfortunetoendure。AsoftenasIattemptedtosituprightonmyluxuriouscouch，myheadwouldreceiveasevereconcussion。Ihadforgottenthepoleswhicharefixedacrosseachoftheseantechambers，forthepurposeofhangingupfishtodry，&c。UnfortunatelyIcouldnotbearthisarrangementinminduntilafterIhadreceivedhalfadozensalutationsofthisdescription。

June21st。

Atlengththemorningsolongsighedforcame；therainhadindeedceased；butthecloudsstillhungaboutthemountains，andpromisedaspeedyfall；Ineverthelessresolvedrathertosubmitmyselftothefuryoftheelementsthantoremainlongerinmypresentquarters，andsoorderedthehorsestobesaddled。

Beforemydepartureroastlambandbutterwereofferedme。I

thankedmyentertainers；butrefrainedfromtastinganything，excusingmyselfonthepleaofnotfeelinghungry，whichwasinrealitythecase；forifIonlylookedatthedirtypeoplewhosurroundedme，myappetitevanishedinstantly。Solongasmystockofbreadandcheeselasted，Ikepttoit，andatenothingelse。

Takingleaveofmygoodhosts，wecontinuedourjourneytoReikjavik，bythesameroadonwhichIhadtravelledonmyjourneyhither。ThishadnotbeenmyoriginalplanonstartingfromReikjavik；IhadintendedtoproceedfromThingvalladirectlytotheGeyser，toHecla，&c。；butthehorseswerealreadyexhausted，andtheweathersodreadfullybad，withoutprospectofspeedyamendment，thatIpreferredreturningtoReikjavik，andwaitingforbettertimesinmypleasantlittleroomatthehouseofthegoodbaker。

Werodeonaswellaswecouldamidstceaselessstormsofwindandrain。Themostdisagreeablecircumstanceofallwasourbeingobligedtospendthehoursdevotedtorestintheopenair，underabynomeanscloudlesssky，asduringourwholeday"sjourneywesawnotasinglehut，savethesolitaryoneinthelavadesert，whichservesasaresting-placefortravellersduringthewinter。Sowecontinuedourjourneyuntilwereachedascantymeadow。HereIhadmychoiceeithertowalkaboutfortwohours，ortositdownuponthewetgrass。Icouldfindnothingbettertodothantoturnmybackuponthewindandrain，toremainstandingononespot，tohavepatience，andforamusementtoobservethedirectioninwhichthecloudsscuddedby。AtthesametimeIdiscussedmyfrugalmeal，moreforwantofsomethingtodothanfromhunger；ifIfeltthirsty，Ihadonlytoturnroundandopenmymouth。

Iftherearenaturespeculiarlyfittedfortravelling，Iamfortunateinbeingblessedwithsuchanone。Norainorwindwaspowerfulenoughtogivemeevenacold。DuringthiswholeexcursionIhadtastednowarmornourishingfood；Ihadslepteverynightuponabenchorachest；hadriddennearly255milesinsixdays；

andhadbesidesscrambledaboutbravelyinthecavernofSurthellir；

and，inspiteofallthisprivationandfatigue，IarrivedatReikjavikingoodhealthandspirits。

Shortsummaryofthisjourney:

MilesFirstday，fromReikjaviktoThingvalla46

Secondday，fromThingvallatoReikholt51

Thirdday，fromReikholttothedifferentsprings，andbackagain19

Fourthday，fromReikholttoSurthellir，andbacktoKalmannstunga40

Fifthday，fromKalmannstungatoThingvalla51

Sixthday，fromThingvallatoReikjavik46

Total253

CHAPTERVI

Theweathersoonclearedup，andIcontinuedmyjourneytotheGeyserandtoMountHeclaonthe24thJune。Onthefirstday，whenwerodetoThingvalla，wepassednonewscenery，butsawinsteadanextremelybeautifulatmosphericphenomenon。

Asweapproachedthelake，somethinmist-cloudsloweredoveritandovertheearth，sothatitseemedasifitwouldrain。Oneportionofthefirmamentglowedwiththebrightestblue；whiletheotherpartwasobscuredbythickclouds，throughwhichthesunwasjustbreaking。Someofitsraysreachedthecloudsofmist，andilluminatedtheminawonderfullybeautifulmanner。Themostdelicateshadesofcolourseemedbreathed，asitwere，overthemlikeadissolvingrainbow，whoseglowingcolourswereintermingledandyetsinglyperceptible。Thisplayofcolourscontinuedforhalfanhour，thenfadedgraduallytillitvanishedentirely，andtheordinaryatmospheretookitsplace。ItwasoneofthemostbeautifulappearancesIhadeverwitnessed。

June25th。

TheroadsseparateaboutamilebehindthelittletownofThingvalla；theonetotheleftgoestoReikholt，theright-handoneleadstotheGeyser。Werodeforsometimealongtheshoresofthelake，andfoundattheendofthevalleyanawfulchasmintherock，similartotheoneofAlmanagiau，whichwehadpassedonsuchawretchedroad。

ThecontiguousvalleyboreagreatresemblancetothatofThingvalla；butthethirdonewasagainfearful。Lavacoveredit，andwasquiteovergrownwiththatwhitishmoss，whichhasabeautifulappearancewhenitonlycoversaportionofthelava，andwhenblackmassesriseaboveit，butwhichherepresentedamostmonotonousaspect。

Wealsopassedtwogrottoeswhichopenedatourfeet。Attheentranceofonestoodapillarofrocksupportinganimmenseslaboflava，whichformedanawe-inspiringportal。Ihadunfortunatelynotknownoftheexistenceofthesecaves，andwasconsequentlyunpreparedtovisitthem。Torches，atleast，wouldhavebeenrequisite。ButIsubsequentlyheardthattheywerenotatalldeep，andcontainednothingofinterest。

InthecourseofthedaywepassedthroughvalleyssuchasIhadseennowhereelseinIceland。Beautifulmeadow-lawns，perfectlylevel，coveredthecountryformiles。Theserichvalleyswere，ofcourse，tolerablywellpopulated；wefrequentlypassedthreeorfourcontiguouscottages，andsawhorses，cows，andsheepgrazingonthesefieldsinconsiderablenumbers。

Themountainswhichboundedthesevalleysontheleftseemedtomeveryremarkable；theywerepartlybrown，black，ordarkblue，liketheothers；butthebulkofwhichtheywerecomposedIconsideredtobefineloam-soillayers，ifImaytrustmyimperfectmineralogicalknowledge。Someofthesemountainsweretoppedbylargeisolatedlavarocks，realgiants；anditseemedinexplicabletomehowtheycouldstandonthesoftsoilbeneath。

Inoneofthesevalleyswepassedaconsiderablelake，onandaroundwhichrosecirclingcloudsofsteamproceedingfromhotsprings，butofnogreatsize。Butafterwehadalreadytravelledabouttwenty-

fivemiles，wecametothemostremarkableobjectIhadevermetwith；thiswasariverwithamostpeculiarbed。

Thisriver-bedisbroadandsomewhatsteep；itconsistsoflavastrata，andisdividedlengthwiseinthemiddlebyaclefteighteentotwentyfeetdeep，andfifteentoeighteenfeetbroad，towardswhichthebubblingandsurgingwatersrush，sothatthesoundisheardatsomedistance。Alittlewoodenbridge，whichstandsinthemiddleofthestream，andoverwhichthehighwavesconstantlyplay，leadsoverthechasm。Anyonenotawareofthefactcanhardlyexplainthisappearancetohimself，norunderstandthenoiseandsurgingofthestream。Thelittlebridgeinthecentrewouldbetakenfortheruinsofafallenbridge，andthechasmisnotseenfromtheshore，becausethefoamingwavesovertopit。Anindescribablefearwouldseizeuponthetravellerwhenhebeheldtheventurousguiderideintothestream，andwasobligedtofollowwithoutpityormercy。

ThepriestofThingvallahadpreparedmeforthescene，andhadadvisedmetoWALKoverthebridge；butasthewateratthisseasonstoodsohighthatthewavesfrombothsidesdashedtwofeetabovethebridge，Icouldnotdescendfrommyhorse，andwasobligedtorideacross。

Thewholepassagethroughthestreamissopeculiar，thatitmustbeseen，andcanscarcelybedescribed。Thewatergushesandplaysonallsideswithfearfulforce；itrushesintothechasmwithimpetuousviolence，formswaterfallsonbothsides，andbreaksitselfontheprojectingrocks。Notfarfromthebridgethecleftterminates；andthewholebreadthofthewatersfallsoverrocksthirtytofortyfeethigh。Thenearerweapproachedthecentre，thedeeper，moreviolent，andimpetuousgrewthestream，andthemoredeafeningwasthenoise。Thehorsesbecamerestlessandshy；andwhenwecametothebridge，theybegantotremble，theyreared，theyturnedtoallsidesbuttherightone，andrefusedtoobeythebridle。Withinfinitetroubleweatlastsucceededinbringingthemacrossthisdangerousplace。

Thevalleywhichistraversedbythispeculiarriverisnarrow，andquiteenclosedbylavamountainsandhills；theinanimate，silentnaturearoundisperfectlyadaptedtoimprintthissceneforeveronthetraveller"smemory。

Thisremarkablestreamhadbeenthelastdifficulty；andnowweproceededquietlyandsafelythroughthebeautifulvalleystillweapproachedtheGeyser，whichaprojectinghillockenviouslyconcealedfrommyanxiouslycuriousgaze。Atlastthishillockwaspassed；andIsawtheGeyserwithitssurroundingscenery，withitsimmensesteampillars，andthecloudsandcloudletsrisingfromit。

ThehillwasabouttwomilesdistantfromtheGeyserandtheotherhotsprings。Theretheywere，boilingandbubblingallaround，andthroughthemidstlaytheroadtothebasin。Eightypacesfromitwehalted。

AndnowIstoodbeforethechiefobjectofmyjourney；Isawit，itwassonearme，andyetIdidnotventuretoapproachit。Butapeasantwhohadfollowedusfromoneoftheneighbouringcottages，andhadprobablyguessedmyanxietyandmyfear，tookmebythehandandconstitutedhimselfmycicerone。Hehadunfortunately，itbeingSunday，paidtoogreatadevotiontothebrandy-bottle，sothathestaggeredratherthanwalked，andIhesitatedtotrustmyselftotheguidanceofthisman，notknowingwhetherhehadreasonenoughlefttodistinguishhowfarwemightwithsafetyventure

Myguide，whohadaccompaniedmefromReikjavik，assuredmeindeedthatImighttrusthiminspiteofhisintoxication，andthathewouldhimselfgowithustotranslatethepeasant"sIcelandicjargonintoDanish；butneverthelessIfollowedwithgreattrepidation。

HeledmetothemarginofthebasinofthegreatGeyser，whichliesonthetopofagentleelevationofabouttenfeet，andcontainstheouterandtheinnerbasins。Thediameteroftheouterbasinmaybeaboutthirtyfeet；thatoftheinneronesixtosevenfeet。Bothwerefilledtothebrim，thewaterwaspureascrystal，butboiledandbubbledonlyslightly。Wesoonleftthisspot；forwhenthebasinsarequitefilledwithwateritisverydangeroustoapproachthem，astheymayemptythemselvesanymomentbyaneruption。Wethereforewenttoinspecttheothersprings。

Myunsteadyguidepointedthoseoutwhichwemightunhesitatinglyapproach，andwarnedmefromtheothers。ThenwereturnedtothegreatGeyser，wherehegavemesomeprecautionaryrules，incaseofaninterveningeruption，andthenleftmetopreparesomeaccommodationformystay。Iwillbrieflyenumeratetheruleshegaveme。

"Thepillarofwateralwaysrisesperpendicularly，andtheoverflowingwaterhasitschiefoutletsononeandthesameside。

Thewaterdoesindeedescapeontheotherside，butonlyininconsiderablequantities，andinshapelesslittleducts，whichonemayeasilyevade。Onthissideonemaythereforeapproachwithinfortypacesevenduringthemostviolenteruptions。Theeruptionannouncesitselfbyadullroaring；andassoonasthisisheard，thetravellermusthastilyretiretotheabove-nameddistance，astheeruptionalwaysfollowsveryquicklyafterthenoise。Thewater，however，doesnotrisehigheverytime，oftenonlyveryinconsiderably，sothat，toseeaveryfineexplosion，itisoftennecessarytostaysomedayshere。"

TheFrenchscholar，M。P。Geimard，hasprovidedfortheaccommodationoftravellerswithatrulynobledisinterestedness。

HetraversedthewholeofIcelandsomeyearsagoandlefttwolargetentsbehindhim；onehere，andtheotherinThingvalla。Theonehereisparticularlyappropriate，astravellersarefrequentlyobliged，asstatedabove，towaitseveraldaysforafineeruption。

EverytravellercertainlyowesM。Geimardthewarmestthanksforthisconvenience。Apeasant，thesamewhoguidestravellerstothesprings，hasthechargeofit，andisboundtopitchitforanyoneforafeeofoneortwoflorins。

Whenmytentwasreadyitwasnearlyeleveno"clock。Mycompanionsretired，andIremainedalone。

Itisusualtowatchthroughthenightinordernottomissaneruption。Now，althoughanalternatewatchingisnoveryarduousmatterforseveraltravellers，itbecameaveryhardtaskformealone，andanIcelandicpeasantcannotbetrusted；aneruptionofMountHeclawouldscarcelyarousehim。

Isatsometimesbeforeandsometimesinmytent，andlistenedwithanxiousexpectationforthecomingevents；atlast，aftermidnight——

thewitchinghour——Iheardsomehollowsounds，asifacannonwerebeingfiredatagreatdistance，anditsechoingsoundswerebornebythebreeze。Irushedfrommytentandexpectedsubterraneannoises，violentcrackingandtremblingoftheearth，accordingtothedescriptionsIhadread。Icouldscarcelyrepressaslightsensationoffear。Tobealoneatmidnightinsuchasceneiscertainlynojoke。

Manyofmyfriendsmayremembermytellingthem，beforemydeparture，thatIexpectedIshouldneedthemostcourageonmyIcelandicjourneyduringthenightsattheGeyser。

Thesehollowsoundswererepeated，atveryshortintervals，thirteentimes；andeachtimethebasinoverflowedandejectedaconsiderablequantityofwater。Thesoundsdidnotseemtoproceedfromsubterraneanragings，butfromtheviolentagitationofthewaters。

Inaminuteandahalfallwasover；thewaternolongeroverflowed，thecaldronandbasinremainedfilled，andIreturnedtomytentdisappointedineveryway。Thisphenomenonwasrepeatedeverytwohoursandahalf，or，atthelatest，everythreehoursandahalf。

Isawandheardnothingelseallnight，thenextday，orthesecondnight。Iwaitedinvainforaneruption。

WhenIhadaccustomedmyselftothesetemporaryeffusionsofmyneighbour，Ieitherindulgedinagentleslumberintheintermediatetime，orIvisitedtheotherspringsandexplored。Iwishedtodiscovertheboilingvapourandthecolouredspringswhichmanytravellersasserttheyhaveseenhere。

Allthehot-springsareunitedwithacircumferenceof800to900

paces:severalofthemareveryremarkable，butthemajorityinsignificant。

Theyaresituatedintheangleofanimmensevalleyatthefootofahill，behindwhichextendsachainofmountains。Thevalleyisentirelycoveredwithgrass，andthevegetationonlydecreasesalittleintheimmediatevicinityofthesprings。Cottagesarebuilteverywhereintheneighbourhood；thenearesttothespringsareonlyabout700to800pacesdistant。

Icountedtwelvelargebasinswithboilingandgushingsprings；ofsmalleronesthereweremanymore。

AmongthegushingspringstheStrokkeristhemostremarkable。Itboilsandbubbleswithmostextraordinaryviolenceatadepthofabouttwentyfeet，shootsupsuddenly，andprojectsitswatersintotheair。Itseruptionssometimeslasthalfanhour，andthecolumnoccasionallyascendstoaheightoffortyfeet。Iwitnessedseveralofitseruptions；butunfortunatelynotoneofthelargest。ThehighestIsawcouldnothavebeenabovethirtyfeet，anddidnotlastmorethanaquarterofanhour。TheStrokkeristheonlyspring，excepttheGeyser，whichhastobeapproachedwithgreatcaution。Theeruptionssometimessucceedeachotherquickly，andsometimesceaseforafewhours，andarenotprecededbyanysign。

Anotherspringspoutsconstantly，butneverhigherthanthreetofourfeet。Athirdoneliesaboutfourorfivefeetdeep，inaratherbroadbasin，andproducesonlyafewlittlebubbles。Butthiscalmnessisdeceptive:itseldomlastsmorethanhalfaminute，rarelytwoorthreeminutes；thenthespringbeginstobubble，toboil，andtowaveandspouttoaheightoftwoorthreefeet；without，however，reachingthelevelofthebasin。InsomespringsIheardboilingandfoaminglikeagentlebellowing；butsawnowater，sometimesnotevensteam，rising。

TwoofthemostremarkablespringswhichcanperhapsbefoundintheworldaresituatedimmediatelyabovetheGeyser，intwoopenings，whichareseparatedbyawallofrockscarcelyafootwide。Thispartitiondoesnotriseabovethesurfaceofthesoil，butdescendsintotheearth；thewaterboilsslowly，andhasanequable，moderatedischarge。Thebeautyofthesespringsconsistsintheirremarkabletransparency。Allthevariedformsandcaves，theprojectingpeaks，andedgesofrock，arevisiblefardown，untiltheeyeislostinthedepthsofdarkness。Butthegreatestbeautyofthespringisthesplendidcolouringproceedingfromtherock；itisofthetenderest，mosttransparent，paleblueandgreen，andresemblesthereflectionofaBengalflame。Butwhatismoststrangeis，thatthisplayofcolourproceedsfromtherock，andonlyextendseighttoteninchesfromit，whiletheotherwateriscolourlessascommonwater，onlymoretransparent，andpurer。

Icouldnotbelieveitatfirst，andthoughtitmustbeoccasionedbythesun；Ithereforevisitedthespringsatdifferenttimes，sometimeswhenthesunshonebrightly，sometimeswhenitwasobscuredbyclouds，onceevenafteritssetting；butthecolouringalwaysremainedthesame。

Onemayfearlesslyapproachthebrinkofthesesprings。Theplatformwhichprojectsdirectlyfromthem，andunderwhichonecanseeinalldirections，isindeedonlyathinledgeofrock，butstrongenoughtopreventanyaccident。Thebeautyconsists，asI

havesaid，inthemagicalillumination，andinthetransparency，bywhichallthecavesandgrottoestothegreatestdepthsbecomevisibletotheeye。InvoluntarilyIthoughtofSchiller"sDiver。

{40}Iseemedtoseethegoblethangonthepeaksandjagsoftherock；IcouldfancyIsawthemonstersrisefromthebottom。Itmustbeapeculiarpleasuretoreadthissplendidpoeminsuchanappropriatespot。

IfoundscarcelyanybasinsofBrodemorcolouredwaters。TheonlyoneofthekindwhichIsawwasasmallbasin，inwhichabrownish-

redsubstance，ratherdenserthanwater，wasboiling。Anothersmallerspring，withdirtybrownwater，Ishouldhavequiteoverlooked，ifIhadnotsoindustriouslysearchedforthesecuriosities。

Atlast，afterlongwaiting，ontheseconddayofmystay，onthe27thJune，athalf-pasteightinthemorning，IwasdestinedtoseeaneruptionoftheGeyserinitsgreatestperfection。Thepeasant，whocamedailyinthemorningandintheeveningtoinquirewhetherIhadalreadyseenaneruption，waswithmewhenthehollowsoundswhichprecedeitwereagainheard。Wehastenedout，andIagaindespairedofseeinganything；thewateronlyoverflowedasusual，andthesoundwasalreadyceasing。Butallatonce，whenthelastsoundshadscarcelydiedaway，theexplosionbegan。WordsfailmewhenItrytodescribeit:suchamagnificentandoverpoweringsightcanonlybeseenonceinalifetime。

Allmyexpectationsandsuppositionswerefarsurpassed。Thewaterspoutedupwardswithindescribableforceandbulk；onepillarrosehigherthantheother；eachseemedtoemulatetheother。WhenIhadinsomemeasurerecoveredfromthesurprise，andregainedcomposure，Ilookedatthetent。Howlittle，howdwarfishitseemedascomparedtotheheightofthesepillarsofwater!Andyetitwasabouttwentyfeethigh。Itdid，indeed，lietenfeetlowerthanthebasinoftheGeyser；butiftenthadbeenraisedabovetent，thesetenfeetcouldonlybedeductedonce，andIcalculated，thoughmycalculationmaynotbecorrect，thatonewouldneedtopileupfiveorsixtentstohavetheheightofoneofthepillars。Withoutexaggeration，Ithinkthelargestspoutroseaboveonehundredfeethigh，andwasthreetofourfeetindiameter。

FortunatelyIhadlookedatmywatchatthebeginningofthehollowsounds，theforerunnersoftheeruption，forduringitscontinuanceIshouldprobablyhaveforgottentodoso。Thewholelastedfourminutes，ofwhichthegreaterhalfmusthavebeentakenupbytheeruptionitself。

Whenthiswonderfulscenewasover，thepeasantaccompaniedmetothebasin。Wecouldnowapproachitandtheboilerwithoutdanger，andexaminebothatleisure。Therewasnownothingtofear；thewaterhadentirelydisappearedfromtheouterbasin。Weentereditandapproachedtheinnerbasin，inwhichthewaterhadsunksevenoreightfeet，whereitboiledandbubbledfiercely。

WithahammerIbrokesomecrustoutoftheouteraswellasoutoftheinnerbasin；theformerwaswhite，thelatterbrown。Ialsotastedthewater；ithadnotanunpleasanttaste，andcanonlycontainaninconsiderableproportionofsulphur，asthesteamdoesnotevensmellofit。

IwenttothebasinoftheGeysereveryhalfhourtoobservehowmuchtimewasrequiredtofillitagain。AfteranhourIcouldstilldescendintotheouterbasin；buthalfanhourlatertheinnerbasinwasalreadyfull，andcommencedtooverflow。Aslongasthewateronlyfilledtheinnerbasinitboiledviolently；butthehigheritroseintheouterone，thelessitboiled，andnearlyceasedwhenthebasinwasfilled:itonlythrewlittlebubbleshereandthere。

Afteralapseoftwohours——itwasjustnoon——thebasinwasfillednearlytothebrim；andwhileIstoodbesideitthewaterbeganagaintobubbleviolently，andtoemitthehollowsounds。Ihadscarcelytimetoretreat，forthepillarsofwaterroseimmediately。

Thistimetheyspoutedduringthenoise，andweremorebulkythanthoseofthefirstexplosion，whichmightproceedfromtheirnotrisingsohigh，andthereforeremainingmorecompact。Theirheightmayhavebeenfromfortytofiftyfeet。Thebasinsthistimeremainednearlyasfullaftertheeruptionasbefore。

IhadnowseentwoeruptionsoftheGeyser，andfeltamplycompensatedformyperseveringpatienceandwatchfulness。ButIwasdestinedtobemorefortunate，andtoexperienceitsexplosionsinalltheirvariety。Thespringspoutedagainatseveno"clockintheevening，ascendedhigherthanatnoon，andbroughtupsomestones，whichlookedlikeblackspotsandpointsinthewhitefrothywater-

column。Andduringthethirdnightitpresenteditselfunderanotherphase:thewaterroseindreadful，quickly-succeedingwaves，withoutthrowingrays；thebasinoverflowedviolently，andgeneratedsuchamassofsteamasisrarelyseen。ThewindaccidentallyblewittothespotwhereIstood，anditenvelopedmesocloselythatIcouldscarcelyseeafewfeetoff。ButI

perceivedneithersmellnoroppression，merelyaslightdegreeofwarmth。

June28th。

AsIhadnowseentheGeyserplaysooftenandsobeautifully，I

orderedmyhorsesfornineo"clockthismorning，tocontinuemyjourney。Imadethemorehastetoleave，asaDutchprincewasexpected，whohadlatelyarrivedatReikjavik，withalargeretinue，inasplendidman-of-war。

Ihadthelucktoseeanothereruptionbeforemydepartureathalf-

pasteighto"clock；andthisonewasnearlyasbeautifulasthefirst。Thistimealsotheouterbasinwasentirelyemptied，andtheinneronetoadepthofsixorsevenfeet。Icouldthereforeagaindescendintothebasin，andbidfarewelltotheGeyserattheverybrinkofthecrater，which，ofcourse，Idid。

IhadnowbeenthreenightsandtwodaysintheimmediatevicinityoftheGeyser，andhadwitnessedfiveeruptions，ofwhichtwowereofthemostconsiderablethathadeverbeenknown。ButIcanassuremyreadersthatIdidnotfindeverythingasIhadanticipateditaccordingtothedescriptionsandaccountsIhadread。IneverheardagreaternoisethanIhavementioned，andneverfeltanytremblingoftheearth，althoughIpaidthegreatestattentiontoeverylittlecircumstance，andheldmyheadtothegroundduringaneruption。

Itissingularhowmanypeoplerepeateverythingtheyhearfromothers——howsome，withanover-excitedimagination，seemtosee，hear，andfeelthingswhichdonotexist；andhowothers，again，tellthemostunblushingfalsehoods。ImetanexampleofthisinReikjavik，inthehouseoftheapothecaryMoller，inthepersonofanofficerofaFrenchfrigate，whoassertedthathehad"riddentotheveryedgeofthecraterofMountVesuvius。"HeprobablydidnotanticipatemeetinganyoneinReikjavikwhohadalsobeentothecraterofVesuvius。Nothingirritatesmesomuchassuchfalsehoodsandboastings；andIcouldnotthereforeresistaskinghimhowhehadmanagedthatfeat。ItoldhimthatIhadbeenthere，andfeareddangeraslittleashecoulddo；butthatIhadbeencompelledtodescendfrommydonkeynearthetopofthemountain，andletmyfeetcarrymetheremainderofthejourney。Heseemedratherembarrassed，andpretendedhehadmeanttosayNEARLYtothecrater；

butIfeelconvincedhewilltellthisstorysooftenthathewillatlastbelieveithimself。

IhopeIdonotwearymyreadersbydwellingsolongonthesubjectoftheGeyser。Iwillnowvarythesubjectbyrelatingafewcircumstancesthatcameundermynotice，which，thoughtriflinginthemselves，wereyetverysignificant。Themostunimportantfactsofanalmostunknowncountryareofteninteresting，andareoftenmostconclusiveevidencesofthegeneralcharacterofthenation。

Ihavealreadyspokenofmyintoxicatedguide。Itisyetinexplicabletomehowhecouldhaveconductedmesosafelyinsuchasemi-consciousstate；andhadhenotbeentheonlyone，Ishouldcertainlynothavetrustedmyselftohisguidance。

OfthewantofcleanlinessoftheIcelanders，noonewhohasnotwitnesseditcanhaveanyidea；andifIattemptedtodescribesomeoftheirnauseoushabits，Imightfillvolumes。Theyseemtohavenofeelingofpropriety，andImust，inthisrespect，rankthemasfarinferiortotheBedouinsandArabs——eventotheGreenlanders。I

can，therefore，notconceivehowthisnationcouldoncehavebeendistinguishedforwealth，bravery，andcivilisation。

OnthisdayIproceededonmyjourneyabouttwenty-eightmilesfarthertoSkalholt。

Forthefirstfivemilesweretracedourformerroad；thenweturnedtotheleftandtraversedthebeautifullongvalleyinwhichtheGeyserissituated。Formanymileswecouldseeitscloudsofsteamrisingtothesky。Theroadsweretolerableonlywhentheypassedalongthesidesofhillsandmountains；intheplainstheyweregenerallymarshyandfullofwater。Wesometimeslostalltracesofaroad，andonlypushedontowardsthequarterinwhichtheplaceofourdestinationwassituated；andfearedwithaltosinkateverypaceintothesoftandunresistingsoil。

IfoundtheindolenceoftheIcelandicpeasantsquiteunpardonable。

Allthevalleysthroughwhichwepassedwerelargemorassesrichlyovergrownwithgrass。Ifthesingleparisheswouldunitetodigtrenchesanddrainthesoil，theywouldhavethefinestmeadows。

Thisisprovednearthemanyprecipiceswherethewaterhasanoutlet；inthesespotsthegrassgrowsmostluxuriantly，anddaisiesandherbsflourishthere，andevenwildclover。Afewcottagesaregenerallycongregatedontheseoases。

BeforearrivingatthevillageofThorfastadir，wealreadyperceivedHeclasurroundedbythebeautifuljokuls。

IarrivedatThorfastadirwhileafuneralwasgoingon。AsI

enteredthechurchthemournerswerebusilyseekingcourageandconsolationinthebrandy-bottle。Thelawcommands，indeed，thatthisbenotdoneinthechurch；butifeveryoneobeyedthelaw，whatneedwouldtherebeofjudges?TheIcelandersmustthinkso，elsetheywoulddiscontinuetheunseemlypractice。

Whenthepriestcame，apsalmoraprayer——Icouldnottellwhichitwas，beingIcelandic——wassoearnestlyshoutedbypeasantsundertheleadershipofthepriestandelders，thatthegoodpeoplewaxedquitewarmandoutofbreath。Thenthepriestplacedhimselfbeforethecoffin，which，forwantofroom，hadbeenlaidonthebacksoftheseats，andwithaveryloudvoicereadaprayerwhichlastedmorethanhalfanhour。Withthistheceremonywithinthechurchwasconcluded，andthecoffinwascarriedroundthechurchtothegrave，followedbythepriestandtherestofthecompany。ThisgravewasdeeperthananyIhadeverseen。Whenthecoffinhadbeenlowered，thepriestthrewthreehandfulsofearthuponit，butnoneofthemournersfollowedhisexample。AmongtheearthwhichhadbeendugoutofthegraveInoticedfourskulls，severalhumanbones，andaboardofaformercoffin。Thesewereallthrowninagainuponthecoffin，andthegravefilledinpresenceofthepriestandthepeople。Onemantrodthesoilfirm，thenalittlemoundwasmadeandcoveredwithgrass-plotswhichwerelyingready。

Thewholebusinesswascompletedwithmiraculousspeed。

ThelittletownofSkalholt，mystationthisnight，wasonceascelebratedinreligiousmattersasThingvallahadbeenpoliticallyfamous。Here，soonaftertheintroductionofChristianity，thefirstbishopricwasfoundedin1098，andthechurchissaidtohavebeenoneofthelargestandrichest。NowSkalholtisamiserableplace，andconsistsofthreeorfourcottages，andawretchedwoodenchurch，whichmayperhapscontainahundredpersons；ithasnotevenitsownpriest，butbelongstoThorfastadir。

Myfirstbusinessonarrivingwastoinspecttheyetremainingrelicsofpastages。FirstIwasshewnanoil-picturewhichhangsinthechurch，andissaidtorepresentthefirstbishopofSkalholt，Thorlakur，whowasworshippedalmostasasaintforhisstrictandpiouslife。

Afterthis，preparationsweremadetoclearawaythestepsofthealtarandseveralboardsoftheflooring。Istoodexpectantlylookingon，thinkingthatIshouldnowhavetodescendintoavaulttoinspecttheembalmedbodyofthebishop。Imustconfessthisprospectwasnotthemostagreeable，whenIthoughtoftheapproachingnightwhichIshouldhavetospendinthischurch，perhapsimmediatelyoverthegraveoftheoldskeleton。Ihadbesidesalreadyhadtoomuchtodowiththedeadforoneday，andcouldnotridmyselfoftheunpleasantgrave-odourwhichIhadimbibedinThorfastadir，andwhichseemedtoclingtomydressandmynose。{41}Iwasthereforenotalittlepleasedwhen，insteadofthedreadedvaultandmummy，Iwasonlyshewnamarbleslab，onwhichwereinscribedtheusualnotificationsofthebirth，death，&c。ofthisgreatbishop。Besidesthis，Isawanoldembroideredstoleandasimplegoldenchalice，bothofwhicharesaidtoberelicsoftheageofThorlakar。

Thenweascendedintotheso-calledstore-room，whichisonlyseparatedfromthelowerportionofthechurchbyafewboards，andwhichextendstothealtar。Herearekeptthebellsandtheorgan，ifthechurchpossessesone，theprovisions，andavarietyoftools。

Theyopenedanimmensechestformethere，whichseemedtocontainonlylargepiecesoftallowmadeintheformofcheeses；butunderthistallowIfoundthelibrary，whereIdiscoveredaninterestingtreasure。Thiswas，besidesseveralveryoldbooksintheIcelandictongue，threethickfoliovolumes，whichIcouldreadveryeasily；

theywereGerman，andcontainedLuther"sdoctrines，letters，epistles，&c。

Ihadnowseenalltherewastobeseen，andbegantosatisfymyphysicalwantsbycallingforsomehotwatertomakecoffee，&c。Asusual，alltheinhabitantsoftheplacerangedthemselvesinandbeforethechurch，probablytoincreasetheirknowledgeofthehumanracebystudyingmypeculiarities。Isoon，however，closedthedoor，andpreparedasplendidcouchformyself。Atmyfirstentranceintothechurch，Ihadnoticedalongbox，quitefilledwithsheep"swool。Ithrewmyrugsoverthis，andsleptascomfortablyasinthesoftestbed。InthemorningIcarefullyteasedthewoolupagain，andnoonecouldthenhaveimaginedwhereIhadpassedthenight。