第5章

ThelittlechapelatKrisuvikisonlytwenty-twofeetlongbytenbroad；onmyarrivalitwashastilypreparedformyreception。

Saddles，ropes，clothes，hats，andotherarticleswhichlayscatteredabout，werehastilyflungintoacorner；mattressesandsomenicesoftpillowssoonappeared，andaverytolerablebedwaspreparedformeonalargechestinwhichthevestmentsofthepriest，thecoveringsofthealtar，&c。，weredeposited。Iwouldwillinglyhavelockedmyselfin，eatenmyfrugalsupper，andafterwardswrittenafewpagesofmydiarybeforeretiringtorest；

butthiswasoutofthequestion。Theentirepopulationofthevillageturnedouttoseeme，oldandyounghastenedtothechurch，andstoodroundinacircleandgazedatme。

Irksomeasthiscuriositywas，Iwasobligedtoendureitpatiently，forIcouldnothavesentthesegoodpeopleawaywithoutseriouslyoffendingthem；soIbeganquietlytounpackmylittleportmanteau，andproceededtoboilmycoffeeoveraspirit-lamp。Awhisperingconsultationimmediatelybegan；theyseemedparticularlystruckbymymodeofpreparingcoffee，andfollowedeveryoneofmymovementswitheagereyes。Myfrugalmealdispatched，Iresolvedtotrythepatienceofmyaudience，and，takingoutmyjournal，begantowrite。

Forafewminutestheyremainedquiet，thentheybegantowhisperonetoanother，"Shewrites，shewrites，"andthiswasrepeatednumberlesstimes。Therewasnosignofanydispositiontodepart；I

believeIcouldhavesattheretilldoomsday，andfailedtotiremyaudienceout。Atlength，afterthisscenehadlastedafullhour，I

couldstanditnolonger，andwasfaintorequestmyamiablevisitorstoretire，asIwishedtogotobed。

Mysleepthatnightwasnoneofthesweetest。Acertainfeelingofdiscomfortalwaysattachestothefactofsleepinginachurchalone，inthemidstofagrave-yard。Besidesthis，onthenightinquestionsuchadreadfulstormarosethatthewoodenwallscreakedandgroanedasthoughtheirfoundationsweregivingway。Thecoldwasalsorathersevere，mythermometerinsidethechurchshewingonlytwodegreesabovezero。Iwastrulythankfulwhenapproachingdaybroughtwithitthewelcomehourofdeparture。

June5th。

TheheavysleepinessandextremeindolenceofanIcelandicguiderenderdeparturebeforeseveno"clockinthemorningathingnottobethoughtof。Thisis，however，oflittleconsequence，asthereisnonightinIcelandatthistimeofyear。

AlthoughthedistancewasmateriallyincreasedbyreturningtoReikjavikbywayofGrundivikandKeblevik，IchosethisrouteinordertopassthroughthewildestoftheinhabitedtractsinIceland。

Thefirststage，fromKrisuviktoGrundivik，adistanceoftwelvetofourteenmiles，laythroughfieldsoflava，consistingmostlyofsmallblocksofstoneandfragments，fillingthevalleysocompletelythatnotasinglegreenspotremained。Iheremetwithmassesoflavawhichpresentedanappearanceofsingularbeauty。

Theywereblackmounds，tenortwelvefeetinheight，pileduponeachotherinthemostvariedforms，theirbasescoveredwithabroadbandofwhitish-colouredmoss，whilethetopswerebrokenintopeaksandconesofthemostfantasticshapes。Theselava-streamsseemtodatefromarecentperiod，asthemassesaresomewhatscalyandglazed。

Grundivik，alittlevillageofafewwretchedcottages，lieslikeanoasisinthisdesertoflava。

Myguidewishedtoremainhere，assertingthattherewasnoplacebetweenthisandKeblevikwhereIcouldpassthenight，andthatitwouldbeimpossibleforourhorses，exhaustedastheywerewithyesterday"smarch，tocarryustoKeblevikthatnight。Thetruereasonofthissuggestionwasthathewishedtoprolongthejourneyforanotherday。

LuckilyIhadagoodmapwithme，andbydintofconsultingitcouldcalculatedistanceswithtolerableaccuracy；itwasalsomycustombeforestartingonajourneytomakeparticularinquiriesastohowIshouldarrangethedailystages。

SoIinsisteduponproceedingatonce；andsoonwewerewendingourwaythroughfieldsoflavatowardsStad，asmallvillagesixorsevenmilesdistantfromGrundivik。

OnthewayInoticedamountainofmostsingularappearance。Incolouritcloselyresemblediron；itssideswereperfectlysmoothandshining，andstreaksofthecolourofyellowochretraversedithereandthere。

Stadistheresidenceofapriest。Contrarytotheassertionsofmyguide，IfoundthisplacefarmorecheerfulandhabitablethanGrundivik。Whilstourhorseswereresting，thepriestpaidmeavisit，andconductedme，not，asIanticipated，intohishouse，butintothechurch。Chairsandstoolswerequicklybroughtthere，andmyhostintroducedhiswifeandchildrentome，afterwhichwepartookofcoffee，breadandcheese，&c。Ontherailsurroundingthealtarhungtheclothesofthepriestandhisfamily，differinglittleintextureandmakefromthoseofthepeasants。

Thepriestappearedtobeaveryintelligent，well-readman。I

couldspeaktheDanishlanguageprettyfluently，andwasthereforeabletoconversewithhimonvarioussubjects。OnhearingthatI

hadalreadybeeninPalestine，heputanumberofquestionstome，fromwhichIcouldplainlyseethathewasalikewellacquaintedwithgeography，history，naturalscience，&c。Heaccompaniedmeseveralmilesonmyroad，andwechattedawaythetimeverypleasantly。

ThedistancebetweenKrisuvikandKeblevikisaboutforty-twomiles。

Theroadliesthroughamostdrearylandscape，amongvastdesertplains，frequentlytwenty-fivetothirtymilesincircumference，entirelydivestedofalltracesofvegetation，andcoveredthroughouttheirextremeareabymassesoflava——gloomymonumentsofvolcanicagency。Andyethere，attheveryheartofthesubterraneanfire，Isawonlyasinglemountain，thesummitofwhichhadfallenin，andpresentedtheappearanceofacrater。Therestwereallcompletelyclosed，terminatingsometimesinabeautifulroundtop，andsometimesinsharppeaks；inotherinstancestheyformedlongnarrowchains。

Whocantellwhencetheseall-destroyingmassesoflavahavepouredforth，orhowmanyhundredyearstheyhavelaininthesepetrifiedvalleys?

Keblevikliesonthesea-coast；buttheharbourisinsecure，sothatshipsremainhereatanchoronlysolongasisabsolutelynecessary；

therearefrequentlyonlytwoorthreeshipsintheharbour。

Afewwoodenhouses，twoofwhichbelongtoHerrKnudson，andsomepeasants"cottages，aretheonlybuildingsinthislittlevillage。

Iwashospitablyreceived，andrestedfromthetoilsofthedayatthehouseofHerrSiverson，HerrKnudson"smanager。

Onthefollowingday(June6th)IhadalongridetoReikjavik，thirty-sixgoodmiles，mostlythroughfieldsoflava。

ThewholetractofcountryfromGrundivikalmosttoHavenfiordiscalled"Thelava-fieldsofReikianes。"

Tiredandalmostbenumbedwithcold，IarrivedintheeveningatReikjavik，withnootherwishthantoretiretorestasfastaspossible。

InthesethreedaysIhadridden114miles，besidesenduringmuchfromcold，storms，andrain。Tomygreatsurprise，theroadshadgenerallybeengood；therewere，however，manyplaceshighlydangerousanddifficult。

Butwhatmatteredthesefatigues，forgotten，astheywere，afterasinglenight"srest?whatweretheyincomparisontotheunutterablybeautifulandmarvellousphenomenaofthenorth，whichwillremaineverpresenttomyimaginationsolongasmemoryshallbesparedme?

Thedistancesofthisexcursionwere:FromReikjaviktoKrisuvik，37miles；fromKrisuviktoKeblevik，39miles；fromKebleviktoReikjavik，38miles:total，114miles。

CHAPTERV

Astheweathercontinuedfine，Iwishedtolosenotimeincontinuingmywanderings。Ihadnexttomakeatourofsome560

miles；itwasthereforenecessarythatIshouldtakeanextrahorse，partlythatitmightcarrymyfewpackages，consistingofapillow，somerye-bread，cheese，coffee，andsugar，butchieflythatImightbeenabledtochangehorseseveryday，asonehorsewouldnothavebeenequaltothefatigueofsolongajourney。

Myformerguidecouldnotaccompanymeonmypresentjourney，ashewasunacquaintedwithmostoftheroads。Mykindprotectors，HerrKnudsonandHerrBernhoft，wereobligingenoughtoprovideanotherguideforme；adifficulttask，asitisarareoccurrencetofindanIcelanderwhounderstandstheDanishlanguage，andwhohappenstobesoberwhenhisservicesarerequired。Atlengthapeasantwasfoundwhosuitedourpurpose；butheconsideredtwoflorinsperdiemtoolittlepay，soIwasobligedtogiveanadditionalzwanziger。

Ontheotherhand，itwasarrangedthattheguideshouldalsotaketwohorses，inorderthathemightchangeeveryday。

The16thofJunewasfixedforthecommencementofourjourney。

Fromtheveryfirstdaymyguidedidnotshewhimselfinanamiablepointofview。Onthemorningofourdeparturehissaddlehadtobepatchedtogether，andinsteadofcomingwithtwohorses，heappearedwithonlyone。Hecertainlypromisedtobuyasecondwhenweshouldhaveproceededsomemiles，addingthatitwouldbecheapertobuyoneatalittledistancefromthe"capital。"Iatoncesuspectedthiswasmerelyanexcuseoftheguide"s，andthathewishedtherebytoavoidhavingthecareoffourhorses。TheeventprovedIwasright；notasinglehorsecouldbefoundthatsuited，andsomypoorlittleanimalhadtocarrytheguide"sbaggageinadditiontomyown。

Loadingthepack-horsesisabusinessofsomedifficulty，andisconductedinthefollowingmanner:sundrylargepiecesofdriedturfarelaiduponthehorse"sback，butnotfastened；overtheseisbuckledaroundpieceofwood，furnishedwithtwoorthreepegs。Tothesepegsthechestsandpackagesaresuspended。Iftheweightisnotquiteequallybalanced，itisnecessarytostopandrepackfrequently，forthewholeloadatoncegetsaskew。

Thetrunksusedinthiscountryaremassivelyconstructedofwood，coveredwitharoughhide，andstrengthenedonallsideswithnails，asthoughtheywereintendedtolastaneternity。Thepoorhorseshaveaconsiderableweighttobearinemptyboxesalone，sothatverylittlerealluggagecanbetaken。Theweightwhichahorsehastocarryduringalongjourneyshouldneverexceed150lbs。

Itisimpossibletorememberhowmanytimesourbaggagehadtoberepackedduringaday"sjourney。Thegreatpiecesofturfwouldneverstayintheirplaces，andeverymomentsomethingwaswrong。

Nothinglessthanamiracle，however，canprevailonanIcelandertodepartfromhisregularroutine。Hisancestorspackedinsuchandsuchamanner，andsohemustpackalso。{35}

Wehadajourneyofabovefortymilesbeforeusthefirstday，andyet，onaccountofthedamagedsaddle，wecouldnotstartbeforeeighto"clockinthemorning。

ThefirsttwelveorfourteenmilesofourjourneylaythroughthegreatvalleyinwhichReikjavikissituated；thevalleycontainsmanylowhills，someofwhichwehadtoclimb。Severalrivers，chiefamongwhichwastheLaxselv，opposedourprogress，butatthisseasonoftheyeartheycouldbecrossedonhorsebackwithoutdanger。Nearlyallthevalleysthroughwhichwepassedto-daywerecoveredwithlava，butneverthelessofferedmanybeautifulspots。

Manyofthehillswepassedseemedtometobeextinctvolcanoes；

thewholeupperportionwascoveredwithcolossalslabsoflava，asthoughthecraterhadbeenchokedupwiththem。Lavaofthesamedescriptionandcolour，butinsmallerpieces，laystrewedaround。

Forthefirsttwelveorfourteenmilestheseaisvisiblefromthebrowofeverysuccessivehill。Thecountryisalsoprettygenerallyinhabited；butafterwardsadistanceofnearlythirtymilesispassed，onwhichthereisnotahumanhabitation。Thetravellerjourneysfromonevalleyintoanother，andinthemidstofthesehill-girtdesertsseesasinglesmallhut，erectedfortheconvenienceofthosewho，inthewinter，cannotaccomplishthelongdistanceinoneday，andmusttakeuptheirquartersforthenightinthevalley。Noonemust，however，rashlyhopetofindhereahumanbeingintheshapeofahost。Thelittlehouseisquiteuninhabited，andconsistsonlyofasingleapartmentwithfournakedwalls。Thevisitormustdependontheaccommodationhecarrieswithhim。

Theplainsthroughwhichwetravelledto-daywerecoveredthroughoutwithoneandthesamekindoflava。Itoccursinmasses，andalsoinsmallerstones，isnotveryporous，ofalightgreycolour，andmixed，inmanyinstances，withsandorearth。

SomemilesfromThingvallaweenteredavalley，thesoilofwhichisfine，butneverthelessonlysparinglycoveredwithgrass，andfulloflittleacclivities，mostlyclothedwithdelicatemoss。Ihavenodoubtthattheindolenceoftheinhabitantsalonepreventsthemfrommateriallyimprovingmanyapieceofground。TheworstsoilisthatintheneighbourhoodofReikjavik；yetthereweseemanyagarden，andmanyapieceofmeadow-land，wrung，asitwere，fromthebarrenearthbylabourandpains。Whyshouldnotthesamethingbedonehere——themoresoasnaturehasalreadyaccomplishedthepreliminarywork?

Thingvalla，ourresting-placeforto-night，issituateonalakeofthesamename，andonlybecomesvisiblewhenthetravelleriscloseuponit。Thelakeisratherconsiderable，beingalmostthreemilesinlength，andatsomepartscertainlymorethantwomilesinbreadth；itcontainstwosmallislands，——SandeyandNesey。

Mywholeattentionwasstillrivetedbythelakeanditsnakedandgloomycircleofmountains，whensuddenly，asifbymagic，Ifoundmyselfstandingonthebrinkofachasm，intowhichIcouldscarcelylookwithoutashudder；involuntarilyIthoughtofWeber"sFreyschutzandthe"Wolf"sHollow。"{36}

ThesceneisthemorestartlingfromthecircumstancethatthetravellerapproachingThingvallainacertaindirectionseesonlytheplainsbeyondthischasm，andhasnoideaofitsexistence。Itwasafissuresomefiveorsixfathomsbroad，butseveralhundredfeetindepth；andwewereforcedtodescendbyasmall，steep，dangerouspath，acrosslargefragmentsoflava。Colossalblocksofstone，threateningtheunhappywandererwithdeathanddestruction，hangloosely，intheformofpyramidsandofbrokencolumns，fromtheloftywallsoflava，whichencirclethewholelongravineintheformofagallery。Speechless，andinanxioussuspense，wedescendapartofthischasm，hardlydaringtolookup，muchlesstogiveutterancetoasinglesound，lestthevibrationshouldbringdownoneoftheseavalanchesofstone，totheterrificforceofwhichtherockyfragmentsscatteredaroundbearampletestimony。Thedistinctnesswithwhichechorepeatsthesoftestsoundandthelightestfootfallistrulywonderful。

Theappearancepresentedbythehorses，whichareallowedtocomedowntheravineaftertheirmastershavedescended，ismostpeculiar。Onecouldfancytheywereclingingtothewallsofrock。

ThisravineisknownbythenameofAlmanagiau。Itsentirelengthisaboutamile，butasmallportiononlycanbetraversed；therestisblockedupbymassesoflavaheapedoneupontheother。Ontherighthand，therockywallopens，andformsanoutlet，overformidablemassesoflava，intothebeautifulvalleyofThingvalla。

IcouldhavefanciedIwanderedthroughthedepthsofacrater，whichhadpiledarounditselfthesestupendousbarriersduringamightyeruptionintimeslonggoneby。

ThevalleyofThingvallaisconsideredoneofthemostbeautifulinIceland。Itcontainsmanymeadows，forming，asitwere，aplaceofrefugefortheinhabitants，andenablingthemtokeepmanyheadofcattle。TheIcelandersconsiderthislittlegreenvalleythefinestspotintheworld。Notfarfromtheopeningoftheravine，onthefartherbankoftheriverOxer，liesthelittlevillageofThingvalla，consistingofthreeorfourcottagesandasmallchapel。

Afewscatteredfarmsandcottagesaresituatedintheneighbourhood。

ThingvallawasonceoneofthemostimportantplacesinIceland；thestrangerisstillshewnthemeadow，notfarfromthevillage，onwhichtheAllthing(generalassembly)washeldannuallyintheopenair。Herethepeopleandtheirleadersmet，pitchingtheirtentsafterthemannerofnomads。Hereitwasalsothatmanyanopinionandmanyadecreewereenforcedbytheweightofsteel。

Thechiefsappeared，ostensiblyforpeace，attheheadoftheirtribe；yetmanyofthemreturnednotagain，butbeneaththesword-

strokeoftheirenemiesobtainedthatpeacewhichnomanseeketh，butwhichallmenfind。

Ononesidethevalleyisskirtedbythelake，ontheotheritisboundedbyloftymountains，someofthemstillpartlycoveredwithsnow。Notfarfromtheentranceoftheravine，theriverOxerrushesoverawallofrockofconsiderableheight，formingabeautifulwaterfall。

ItwasstillfinecleardaylightwhenIreachedThingvalla，andtheskyrosepureandcloudlessoverthefardistance。Itseemedthereforethemoresingulartometoseeafewcloudsskimmingoverthesurfaceofthemountains，nowshroudingapartoftheminvapour，nowwreathingthemselvesroundtheirsummits，nowvanishingentirely，toreappearagainatadifferentpoint。

ThisisaphenomenonfrequentlyobservedinIcelandduringthefinestdays，andoneIhadoftennoticedintheneighbourhoodofReikjavik。Underaclearandcloudlesssky，alightmistwouldappearonthebrowofamountain，——inamomentitwouldincreasetoalargecloud，andafterremainingstationaryforatime，itfrequentlyvanishedsuddenly，orsoaredslowlyaway。Howeveroftenitmayberepeated，thisappearancecannotfailtointeresttheobserver。

HerrBeck，theclergymanatThingvalla，offeredmetheshelterofhishutforthenight；asthebuilding，however，didnotlookmuchmorepromisingthanthepeasants"cottagesbywhichitwassurrounded，Ipreferredquarteringmyselfinthechurch，permissiontodosobeingbuttooeasilyobtainedonalloccasions。ThischapelisnotmuchlargerthanthatatKrisuvik，andstandsatsomedistancefromthefewsurroundingcottages。ThiswasperhapsthereasonwhyIwasnotincommodedbyvisitors。Ihadalreadyconqueredanysuperstitiousfearsderivedfromtheproximityofmysilentneighboursinthechurchyard，andpassedthenightquietlyononeofthewoodenchestsofwhichIfoundseveralscatteredabout。

Habitiscertainlyeverything；afterafewnightsofgloomysolitudeonethinksnomoreaboutthematter。

June17th。

Ourjourneyofto-daywasmoreformidablethanthatofyesterday。I

wasassuredthatReikholt(alsocalledReikiadal)wasalmostfiftymilesdistant。Distancescannotalwaysbeaccuratelymeasuredbythemap；impassablebarriers，onlytobeavoidedbycircuitousroutes，oftenopposethetraveller"sprogress。Thiswasthecasewithusto-day。Tojudgefromthemap，thedistancefromThingvallatoReikholtseemedlessbyagreatdealthanthatfromReikjaviktoThingvalla，andyetwewerefullfourteenhoursaccomplishingit——

twohourslongerthanonouryesterday"sjourney。

SolongasourwaylaythroughthevalleyofThingvallatherewasnolackofvariety。AtonetimetherewasanarmoftheriverOxertocross，atanotherwetraversedacheerfulmeadow；sometimesweevenpassedthroughlittleshrubberies，——thatistosay，accordingtotheIcelandicacceptationoftheterm。Inmycountrytheselovelyshrubberieswouldhavebeenclearedawayasuselessunderwood。Thetreestrailalongtheground，seldomattainingaheightofmorethantwofeet。Whenoneofthesepunystemsreachesfourfeetinheight，itisconsideredagigantictree。Thegreaterportionoftheseminiatureforestsgrowonthelavawithwhichthevalleyiscovered。

Theformationofthelavahereassumesanewcharacter。Uptothispointithasmostlyappearedeitherinlargemassesorinstreamslyinginstrataoneabovetheother；butherethelavacoveredthegreaterportionofthegroundintheformofimmenseflatslabsorblocksofrock，oftensplitinaverticaldirection。Isawlongfissuresofeightortenfeetinbreadth，andfromtentofifteenfeetindepth。Inthesecleftstheflowersblossomearlier，andtheferngrowstallerandmoreluxuriantly，thanintheboisterousupperworld。

AfterthevalleyofThingvallahasbeenpassedthejourneybecomesverymonotonous。Thedistrictbeyondiswhollyuninhabited，andwetravelledmanymileswithoutseeingasinglecottage。Fromonedesertvalleywepassedintoanother；allwerealikecoveredwithlight-greyoryellowishlava，andatintervalsalsowithfinesand，inwhichthehorsessunkdeeplyateverystep。Themountainssurroundingthesevalleyswerenoneofthehighest，anditwasseldomthatajokulorglaciershoneforthfromamongthem。Themountainshadacertainpolishedappearance，theirsidesbeingperfectlysmoothandshining。Insomeinstances，however，massesoflavaformedbeautifulgroups，bearingagreatresemblancetoruinsofancientbuildings，andstandingoutinpeculiarlyfinerelieffromthesmoothwalls。

Thesemountainsareofdifferentcolours；theyareblackorbrown，greyoryellow，&c。；andthedifferentshadesofthesecoloursaredisplayedwithmarvellouseffectinthebrilliantsunshine。

Ninehoursofuninterruptedridingbroughtusintoalargetractofmoorland，veryscantilycoveredwithmoss。Yetthiswasthefirstandonlygrazing-placetobemetwithinallthelongdistancefromThingvalla。Wethereforemadeahaltoftwohours，toletourpoorhorsespickascantymeal。Largeswarmsofminutegnats，whichseemedtoflyintooureyes，nose，andmouth，annoyedusdreadfullyduringourstayinthisplace。

Onthismoortherewasalsoasmalllake；andhereIsawforthefirsttimeasmallflockofswans。Unfortunatelythesecreaturesaresoverytimid，thatthemostcautiousapproachofahumanbeingcausesthemtorisewiththespeedoflightningintotheair。Iwasthereforeobligedperforcetobecontentwithadistantviewoftheseproudbirds。Theyalwayskeepinpairs，andthelargestflockIsawdidnotconsistofmorethanfoursuchpairs。

SincemyfirstarrivalinIcelandIhadconsideredtheinhabitantsanindolentraceofpeople；to-dayIwasstrengthenedinmyopinionbythefollowingslightcircumstance。Themoorlandonwhichwehaltedtorestwasseparatedfromtheadjoiningfieldsoflavabyanarrowditchfilledwithwater。Acrossthisditchafewstonesandslabshadbeenlaid，toformakindofbridge。Nowthisbridgewassofullofholesthatthehorsescouldnottellwheretoplanttheirfeet，andrefusedobstinatelytocrossit，sothatintheendwewereobligedtodismountandleadthemacross。Wehadscarcelypassedthisplace，andsatdowntorest，whenacaravanoffifteenhorses，ladenwithplanks，driedfish，&c。arrivedatthebridge。

Ofcoursethepoorcreaturesobservedthedangerousground，andcouldonlybedrivenbyhardblowstoadvance。Hardlytwentypacesofftherewerestonesinabundance；butratherthandevoteafewminutestofillinguptheholes，theselazypeoplebeattheirhorsescruelly，andexposedthemtotheriskofbreakingtheirlegs。I

pitiedthepooranimals，whichwouldbecompelledtorecrossthebridge，soheartily，that，aftertheyaregone，Idevotedapartofmyresting-timetocollectingstonesandfillinguptheholes，——abusinesswhichscarcelyoccupiedmeaquarterofanhour。

Itisinterestingtonoticehowthehorsesknowbyinstinctthedangerousspotsinthestonywastes，andinthemoorsandswamps。

Onapproachingtheseplacestheybendtheirheadstowardstheearth，andlooksharplyroundonallsides。Iftheycannotdiscoverafirmresting-placeforthefeet，theystopatonce，andcannotbeurgedforwardwithoutmanyblows。

Afterahaltoftwohourswecontinuedourjourney，whichagainledusacrossfieldsoflava。Atpastnineo"clockintheeveningwereachedanelevatedplain，aftertraversingwhichforhalfanhourwesawstretchedatourfeetthevalleyofReikholtorReikiadal；itisfourteentoseventeenmileslong，ofagoodbreadth，andgirtroundbyarowofmountains，amongwhichseveraljokulssparkleintheiricygarments。

AsunsetseeninthesublimewildnessofIcelandicsceneryhasapeculiarlybeautifuleffect。Overthesevastplains，divestedoftreesorshrubs，coveredwithdarklava，andshutinbymountainsalmostofasablehue，thepartingsunshedsanalmostmagicalradiance。Thepeaksofthemountainsshineinthebrightpartingrays，thejokulsareshroudedinthemostdelicateroseatehue，whilethelowerpartsofthemountainslieindeepshadow，andfrowndarklyonthevalleys，whichresembleasheetofdarkbluewater，withanatmosphereofabluish-redcolourfloatingaboveit。Themostimpressivefeatureofallistheprofoundsilenceandsolitude；

notasoundcanbeheard，notalivingcreatureistobeseen；everythingappearsdead。Throughoutthebroadvalleysnotatownnoravillage，no，notevenasolitaryhouseoratreeorshrub，variestheprospect。Theeyewandersoverthevastdesert，andfindsnotonefamiliarobjectonwhichitcanrest。

To-night，asatpasteleveno"clockwereachedtheelevatedplain，I

sawasunsetwhichIshallneverforget。Thesundisappearedbehindthemountains，andinitssteadagorgeousruddygleamlighteduphillandvalleyandglacier。ItwaslongereIcouldturnawaymyeyesfromtheglitteringheights，andyetthevalleyalsoofferedmuchthatwasstrikingandbeautiful。

Throughoutalmostitsentirelengththisvalleyformedameadow，fromtheextremitiesofwhichcolumnsofsmokeandboilingspringsburstforth。Themistshadalmostevaporated，andtheatmospherewasbrightandclear，moretransparenteventhanIhadseenitinanyothercountry。Inowforthefirsttimenoticed，thatinthevalleyitselftheradiancewasalmostasclearasthelightofday，sothatthemostminuteobjectscouldbeplainlydistinguished。

Thiswas，however，extremelynecessary，forsteepanddangerouspathsleadovermassesoflavaintothevalley。Ononesideranalittleriver，formingmanypicturesquewaterfalls，someofthemabovethirtyfeetinheight。

Istrainedmyeyesinvaintodiscoveranywhere，inthisgreatvalley，alittlechurch，which，ifitonlyofferedmeahardbenchforacouch，wouldatanyrateaffordmeashelterfromthesharpnight-wind；foritisreallynojoketorideforfifteenhours，withnothingtoeatbutbreadandcheese，andthennoteventohavethepleasantprospectofahotelalavilladeLondresordeParis。

Alas，mywisheswerefarmoremodest。Iexpectednoporteratthegatetogivethesignalofmyarrival，nowaiter，andnochambermaid；IonlydesiredalittlespotintheneighbourhoodofthedeardepartedIcelanders。Iwassuddenlyrecalledfromthesehappydelusionsbythevoiceoftheguide，whocriedout:"Hereweareatourdestinationforto-night。"Ilookedjoyfullyround；

alas!Icouldonlyseeafewofthosecottageswhichareneverobserveduntilyoualmosthityournoseagainstoneofthem，asthegrass-coveredwallscanhardlybedistinguishedfromthesurroundingmeadow。

Itwasalreadymidnight。Westopped，andturnedourhorsesloose，toseeksupperandrestinthenearestmeadow。Ourlotwasalessfortunateone。Theinhabitantswerealreadyburiedindeepslumbers，fromwhicheventhebarkingsetupbythedogsatourapproachfailedtoarousethem。Acupofcoffeewouldcertainlyhavebeenveryacceptabletome；yetIwasloathtorouseanyonemerelyforthis。Apieceofbreadsatisfiedmyhunger，andadraughtofwaterfromthenearestspringtastedmostdeliciouslywithit。Afterconcludingmyfrugalmeal，Isoughtoutacornerbesideacottage，whereIwaspartiallyshelteredfromthetoo-

familiarwind；andwrappingmycloakaroundme，laydownontheground，havingwishedmyself，withallmyheart，agoodnight"srestandpleasantdreams，inthebroaddaylight，{37}underthecanopyofheaven。Justdroppingofftosleep，Iwassurprisedbyamildrain，which，ofcourse，atonceputtoflighteveryideaofrepose。Thus，afterall，Iwasobligedtowakesomeoneup，toobtaintheshelterofaroof。

Thebestroom，i。e。thestore-room，wasthrownopenformyaccommodation，andasmallwoodenbedsteadplacedatmydisposal。

Chambersofthiskindareluckilyfoundwherevertwoorthreecottagesliecontiguoustoeachother；theyarecertainlyfarfrominviting，asdriedfish，train-oil，tallow，andmanyotherarticlesofthesamedescriptioncombinetoproduceamostunsavouryatmosphere。Yettheyareinfinitelypreferabletothedwellingsofthepeasants，which，bytheby，arethemostfilthydensthatcanbeimagined。Besidesbeingredolentofeverydescriptionofbadodour，thesecottagesareinfestedwithvermintoadegreewhichcancertainlynotbesurpassed，exceptinthedwellingsoftheGreenlandersandLaplanders。

June18th。

Yesterdaywehadbeenforcedtoputuponourpoorhorsesawearisomedistanceofmorethanfiftymiles，asthelastfortymilesledusthroughdesertanduninhabitedplaces，boastingnotevenasinglecottage。To-day，however，oursteedshadalightdutytoperform，forweonlyproceededsevenmilestothelittlevillageofReikiadal，whereIhaltedto-day，inordertovisitthecelebratedsprings。

TheinconsiderablevillagecalledReikiadal，consistingonlyofachurchandafewcottages，issituatedamidstpleasantmeadows。

Altogetherthisvalleyisrichinbeautifulmeadow-lands；

consequentlyoneseesmanyscatteredhomesteadsandcottages，withfineherdsofsheep，andatolerablenumberofhorses；cowsarelessplentiful。

ThechurchatReikiadalisamongtheneatestandmostroomyofthosewhichcameundermyobservation。Thedwellingofthepriesttoo，thoughonlyaturf-coveredcottage，islargeenoughforthecomfortoftheoccupants。Thisparishextendsoveraconsiderablearea，andisnotthinlyinhabited。

Myfirstcareonmyarrivalwastobegtheclergyman，HerrJonasJonason，toprocureforme，asexpeditiouslyaspossible，freshhorsesandaguide，inorderthatImightvisitthesprings。Hepromisedtoprovidemewithbothwithinhalfanhour；andyetitwasnotuntilthreehourshadbeenwasted，that，withinfinitepains，I

sawmywishfulfilled。ThroughoutmystayinIceland，nothingannoyedmemorethantheslownessandunconcerndisplayedbytheinhabitantsinalltheirundertakings。Everywishandeveryrequestoccupiesalongtimeinitsfulfilment。HadInotbeencontinuallyatthegoodpastor"sside，IbelieveIshouldscarcelyhaveattainedmyobject。Atlengtheverythingwasready，andthepastorhimselfwaskindenoughtobemyguide。

Werodeaboutfourmilesthroughthisbeautifulvale，andinthisshortdistancewerecompelledatleastsixtimestocrosstheriverSidumule，whichrollsitsmosttortuouscoursethroughtheentirevalley。Atlengththefirstspringwasreached；itemergesfromarockaboutsixfeetinheight，standinginthemidstofamoor。Theuppercavityofthenaturalreservoir，inwhichthewatercontinuallyboilsandseethes，isbetweentwoandthreefeetindiameter。Thisspringneverstops；thejetofwaterrisestwo，andsometimesevenfourfeethigh，andisabouteighteeninchesthick。

Itispossibletoincreasethevolumeofthejetforafewseconds，bythrowinglargestonesorlumpsofearthintotheopening，andthusstirringupthespring。Thestonesarecastforciblyforth，andthelumpsofearth，dissolvedbytheactionofthewater，imparttothelatteradingycolour。

WhoeverhasseenthejetofwateratCarlsbad，inBohemia，canwellimaginetheappearanceofthisspring，whichcloselyresemblesthatofCarlsbad。{38}

Intheimmediateneighbourhoodofthespringisanabyss，inwhichwateriscontinuallyseething，butneverrisesintotheair。Atalittledistance，onahighrock，risingoutoftheriverSidumule，notfarfromtheshore，areothersprings。Theyarethreeinnumber，eachatashortdistancefromthenext，andoccupynearlytheentireuppersurfaceoftherock。Lowerdownwefindareservoirofboilingwater；andatthefootoftherock，andonthenearestshore，aremanymorehotsprings；butmostoftheseareinconsiderable。Manyofthesehotspringsemergealmostfromthecoldriveritself。

Thechiefgroup，however，liesstillfartheroff，onarockwhichmaybeabouttwentyfeetinheight，andfiftyinlength。ItiscalledTungaHuer，andrisesfromthemidstofamoor。Onthisrocktherearenolessthansixteensprings，someemergingfromitsbase，othersratherabovethemiddle，butnonefromthetopoftherock。

TheconstructionofthebasinsandtheheightanddiameterofthejetswerepreciselysimilartothoseIhavealreadydescribed。Allthesesixteenspringsaresoneareachotherthattheydonotevenoccupytwosidesoftherock。Itisimpossibletoformanideaofthemagnificenceofthissingularspectacle，whichbecomesreallyfairy-like，ifthebeholderhavethecouragetoclimbtherockitself，aproceedingofsomedanger，thoughoflittledifficulty。

Theupperstratumoftherockissoftandwarm，presentingalmosttheappearanceofmudthickenedwithsandandsmallstones。Everyfootstepleavesatracebehindit，andthevisitorhascontinuallybeforehiseyesthefearofbreakingthrough，andfallingintoahotspringhiddenfromviewbyathincovering。Thegoodpastorwalkedinadvanceofme，withastick，andprobedthedangeroussurfaceasmuchaspossible。Iwasloathtostaybehind，andsuddenlywefoundourselvesatthesummitoftherock。Herewecouldtakein，atoneview，thesixteenspringsgushingfrombothitssides。Iftheviewfrombelowhadbeenmostinterestingandsingular，howshallI

describeitsappearanceasseenfromabove?Sixteenjetsofwaterseenatoneglance，sixteenreservoirs，inalltheirdiversityofformandconstruction，openingatoncebeneaththefeetofthebeholder，seemedalmosttoowonderfulasight。Forgettingallpusillanimousfeelings，IstoodandhonouredtheCreatorinthesehismarvellousworks。ForalongtimeIstood，andcouldnottireofgazingintotheabyssesfromwhosedarknessthemassesofwhiteandfoamingwatersprunghissingintotheair，tofallagain，andhasteninquietuniontowardstheneighbouringriver。Thegoodpastorfounditnecessarytoremindmeseveraltimesthatourpositionherewasneitherofthesafestnorofthemostcomfortable，andthatitwasthereforehightimetoabandonit。Ihadceasedtothinkoftheinsecurityofthegroundwetrod，andscarcelynoticedthemightycloudsofhotvapourwhichfrequentlysurroundedandthreatenedtosuffocateus，obligingustostepsuddenlybackwithwettedfaces。Itwasfortunatethatthesewaterscontainbutaverysmallquantityofbrimstone，otherwisewecouldscarcelyhavelongmaintainedourelevatedposition。

Therockfromwhichthesespringsriseisformedofareddishmass，andthebedoftheriverintowhichthewaterflowsisalsocompletelycoveredwithlittlestonesofthesamecolour。

Onourwaybackwenoticed，nearacottage，anotherremarkablephenomenon。Itwasabasin，inwhosedepthsthewaterboilsandbubblesviolently；andnearthisbasinaretwounsightlyholes，fromwhichcolumnsofsmokeperiodicallyrisewithagreatnoise。Whilstthisisgoingon，thebasinfillsitselfmoreandmorewithwater，butneversomuchastooverflow，ortoforceajetofwaterintotheair；thenthesteamandthenoiseceaseinbothcavities，andthewaterinthereservoirsinksseveralfeet。

Thisstrangephenomenongenerallylastsaboutaminute，andisrepeatedsoregularly，thatabetcouldalmostbemade，thattherisingandfallingofthewater，andtheincreasedandlessenednoiseofthesteam，shallbeseenandheardsixtyorsixty-fivetimeswithinanhour。

Incommunicationwiththisbasinisanother，situateatadistanceofaboutahundredpacesinasmallhollow，andfilledliketheformerwithboilingwater。Asthewaterintheupperbasingraduallysinks，andceasestoseethe，itbeginstoriseinthelowerone，andisatlengthforcedtwoorthreefeetintotheair；

thenitfallsagain，andthusthephenomenoniscontinuallyrepeatedintheupperandthelowerbasinalternately。

Attheupperspringthereisalsoavapour-bath。Thisisformedbyasmallchambersituatehardbythebasin，builtofstonesandroofedwithturf。Itisfurtherprovidedwithasmallandnarrowentrance，whichcannotbepassedinanuprightposition。Theflooriscomposedofstoneslabs，probablycoveringahotspring，fortheyareverywarm。Thepersonwishingtousethisbathbetakeshimselftothisroom，andcarefullycloseseverycranny；asuffocatingheat，whichinducesviolentperspirationoverthewholeframe，isthusgenerated。Thepeople，however，seldomavailthemselvesofthisbath。

OnmyreturnIhadstilltovisitabasinwithajetofwater，inafinemeadownearthechurch；alowwallofstonehasbeenerectedroundthisspringtopreventthecattlefromscaldingthemselvesiftheyshouldapproachtoonearintheardourofgrazing。Someeightypacesoffistobeseenthewool-batherectedbySnorriSturluson。

Itconsistsofastonebasinthreeorfourfeetindepth，andeighteenortwentyindiameter。Theapproachisbyafewstepsleadingtoalowstonebench，whichrunsroundthebasin。Thewaterisobtainedfromtheneighbouringspring，butisofsohighatemperaturethatitisimpossibletobathewithoutpreviouslycoolingit。Thebathstandsintheopenair，andnotracesareleftofthebuildingwhichoncecoveredit。Itisnowusedforclothesandsheep"swool。

Ihadnowseenalltheinterestingspringsonthissideofthevalley。Somecolumnsofvapour，whichmaybeobservedfromtheoppositeendofthevalley，proceedfromthermalsprings，thatoffernoremarkablefeaturesavetheirheat。

Onourreturnthepriesttookmetothechurchyard，whichlayatsomedistancefromhisdwelling，andshowedmetheprincipalgraves。

ThoughIthoughtthesightveryimpressive，itwasnotcalculatedtoinvigorateme，whenIconsideredthatImustpasstheapproachingnightaloneinthechurch，amidsttheseresting-placesofthedeparted。

Themoundaboveeachgraveisveryhigh，andthegreaterpartofthemaresurmountedbyakindofwoodencoffin，whichatfirstsightconveystheimpressionthatthedeadpersonisaboveground。I

couldnotshakeoffafeelingofdiscomfort；andsuchisthepowerofprejudice，that——Iacknowledgemyweakness——Iwaseveninducedtobegthatthepriestwouldremoveoneofthecovers。ThoughIknewfullwellthatthedeadmanwasslumberingdeepintheearth，andnotinthiscoffin，Ifeltashudderpassovermeasthelidwasremoved，andIsaw——asthepriesthadassuredmeIshoulddo——merelyatombstonewiththeusualinscription，whichthiscoffin-likecoveringisintendedtoprotectagainsttherudestormsofthewinter。

ClosebesidetheentrancetothechurchisthemoundbeneathwhichrestthebonesofSnorriSturluson，thecelebratedpoet；{39}overthisgravestandsasmallrunicstoneofthelengthofthemounditself。Thisstoneissaidtohaveoncebeencompletelycoveredwithruniccharacters；butalltraceofthesehasbeensweptawaybythestormsoffivehundredwinters，againstwhichthetombhadnoprotectingcoffin。Thestone，too，issplitthroughoutitsentirelengthintotwopieces。Themoundabovethegraveisoftenrenewed，sothatthebeholdercouldoftenfancyhesawanew-madegrave。I

pickedallthebuttercupsIcouldfindgrowingonthegrave，andpreservedthemcarefullyinabook。PerhapsImaybeabletogivepleasuretoseveralofmycountrywomenbyofferingthemafloweretfromthegraveofthegreatestofIcelandicpoets。

June19th。

Inordertopursuemyjourneywithoutinterruption，Ihiredfreshhorses，andallowedmyown，whichwereratherfatigued，toaccompanyusunloaded。MyobjectinthisfurtherexcursionwastovisittheveryremarkablecavernofSurthellir，distantagoodthirty-threemilesfromthisplace。Theclergymanwasagainkindenoughtomakethenecessaryarrangementsforme，andeventoactasmyMentoronthejourney。

Thoughwewereonlythreestrong，wedepartedwitharetinueofsevenhorses，andfornearlytenmilesrodebackthesamewaybywhichIhadcomefromReikholtontheprecedingmorning；thenweturnedofftotheleft，andcrossinghillsandacclivities，reachedothervalleys，whichwerepartlytraversedbybeautifulstreamsoflava，andpartlyinterspersedwithforests——FORESTS，asIhavealreadysaid，accordingtoIcelandicnotions。TheseparatestemswerecertainlyslightlyhigherthanthoseinthevalleyofThingvalla。

AtKalmannstungaweleftthesparehorses，andtookwithusamantoserveasguideinthecavern，fromwhichwewerenowstillsomesevenmilesdistant。ThegreatvalleyinwhichthiscavernliesisreckonedamongthemostremarkableinIceland。Itisamostperfectpictureofvolcanicdevastation。Themostbeautifulmassesoflava，inthemostvariedandpicturesqueforms，occupythewholeimmeasurablevalley。Lavaistobeseenthereinaroughglassystate，formingexquisiteflamesandarabesques；andinimmenseslabs，lyingsometimesscattered，sometimespiledinstrataoneabovetheother，asthoughtheyhadbeencasttherebyaflood。

Amongthese，again，liemightyisolatedstreams，whichmusthavebeenfrozeninthemidstoftheircourse。Fromthedifferentcoloursofthelava，andtheirtransitionsfromlightgreytoblack，wecanjudgeoftheeruptionswhichhavetakenplaceatdifferentperiods。Themountainssurroundingthisvalleyaremostlyofasombrehue；someareevenblack，formingastrikingcontrasttotheneighbouringjokuls，which，intheirlargeexpanse，presenttheappearancealmostofaseaofice。Ifoundoneofthesejokulsofaremarkablesize；itsshiningexpanseextendedfardownintothevalley，anditsuppersurfacewasalmostimmeasurable。

Theothermountainswereallsmooth，asthoughpolishedbyart；intheforegroundIonlynoticedonewhichwascoveredwithwonderfulformsofdriedlava。Adeathlikesilenceweighedonthewholecountryround，onhillandonvalleyalike。Everythingseemeddead，allroundwasbarrenanddesert，sothattheeffectwastrulyIcelandic。ThegreaterportionofIcelandmightbewithjusticedesignatedthe"NorthernDesert。"

ThecavernofSurthellirliesonaslightlyelevatedextendedplain，whereitwouldcertainlynotbesoughtfor，asweareaccustomedtoseenaturalphenomenaofthisdescriptiononlyinthebowelsofrocks。Itis，therefore，withnolittlesurprisethatthetravellerseessuddenlyopeningbeforehimalargeroundbasinaboutfifteenfathomsindiameter，andfourindepth。ItwaswithafeelingofawethatIlookeddownwardsonthecountlessblocksofrockpiledoneupontheother，extendingononesidetotheedgeofthehollow，acrosswhichtheroadledtothedarkravinesfartheron。

Wewerecomperedtoscrambleforwardonourhandsandknees，untilwereachedalongbroadpassage，whichledusatfirstimperceptiblydownwards，andthenranunderneaththeplain，whichformedarockycavernaboveourheads。Iestimatedthedifferentheightsofthisroofatnotlessthanfromeighteentosixtyfeet；butitseldomreachedagreaterelevationthanthelatter。Bothroofandwallsareinsomeplacesverypointedandrough:acircumstancetobeascribedtothestalactiteswhichadheretothem，without，however，formingfiguresorlongsharppoints。

Fromthisprincipalpathseveralsmalleronesleadfarintotheinteriorofthisstonyregion；buttheydonotcommunicatewitheachother，andoneiscompelledtoreturnfromeachside-pathintothemainroad。Someoftheseby-pathsareshort，narrow，andlow；

others，onthecontrary，arelong，broad，andlofty。

Inoneofthemostretiredoftheseby-pathsIwasshewnagreatnumberofbones，which，Iwastold，werethoseofslaughteredsheepandotheranimals。Icouldgather，fromtheaccountgivenbythepriestofthelegendconcerningthem，that，indaysofyore，thiscavewastheresortofamightybandofrobbers。Thismusthavebeenalong，longtimeago，asthisisrelatedasalegendorafable。

Formypart，IcouldnottellwhatrobbershadtodoinIceland。

Pirateshadoftencometotheisland；butforthesegentrythiscavernwastoofarfromthesea。Icannotevenimaginebeastsofpreytohavebeenthere；forthewholecountryroundaboutisdesertanduninhabited，sothattheycouldhavefoundnothingtopreyupon。

Infact，Iturnedoverinmymindeveryprobability，andcanonlysaythatitappearedtomeamostremarkablecircumstancetofindinthisdesertplace，sofarfromanylivingthing，anumberofbones，which，moreover，lookedasfreshasifthepooranimalstowhomtheyoncebelongedhadbeeneatenbutashorttimeago。UnfortunatelyI