第4章

Inwinterthepeasantsoftencomewithshovels，pickaxes，andhorsestofetchthedoctor。Theythengobeforehim，andhastilyrepairtheworstpartoftheroad；whilethedoctorridessometimesononehorse，sometimesonanother，thattheymaynotsinkunderthefatigue。Andthustheprocessiontravelsformany，manymiles，throughnightandfog，throughstormandsnow，foronthedoctor"spromptitudelifeanddeathoftenhang。Whenhethenreturns，quitebenumbed，andhalfdeadwithcold，tothebosomofhisfamily，intheexpectationofrestandrefreshment，andtorejoicewithhisfriendsoverthedangersandhardshipshehasescaped，thepoordoctorisfrequentlycompelledtosetoffatonceonanewandimportantjourney，beforehehasevenhadtimetogreetthedearonesathome。

Sometimesheissentforbysea，wherethedangerisstillgreateronthestorm-tostelement。

Thoughthesalaryofthemedicalmenisnotatallproportionatetothehardshipstheyarecalledupontoundergo，itisstillfarbetterthanthatofthepriests。

Thesmallestlivingsbringinsixtoeightflorinsannually，therichest200florins。Besidesthis，thegovernmentsuppliesforeachpriestahouse，oftennotmuchbetterthanapeasant"scottage，afewmeadows，andsomecattle。Thepeasantsarealsorequiredtogivecertainsmallcontributionsinthewayofhay，wool，fish，&c。

Thegreaternumberofpriestsaresopoor，thattheyandtheirfamiliesdressexactlylikethepeasants，fromwhomtheycanscarcelybedistinguished。Theclergyman"swifelooksafterthecattle，andmilkscowsandeweslikeamaid-servant；whileherhusbandproceedstothemeadow，andmowsthegrasswiththelabourer。Theintercourseofthepastoriswhollyconfinedtothesocietyofpeasants；andthisconstitutesthechiefelementofthat"patriarchallife"whichsomanytravellersdescribeascharming。I

shouldliketoknowwhichofthemwouldwishtoleadsuchalife!

Thepoorpriesthas，besides，frequentlytoofficiateintwo，three，orevenfourdistricts，distantfromfourtotwelvemilesfromhisresidence。EverySundayhemustdodutyatoneorotherofthesedistricts，takingtheminturn，sothatdivineserviceisonlyperformedateachplaceonceineverythreeorfourweeks。Thejourneysofthepriest，however，arenotconsideredquitesonecessaryasthoseofthedoctor；foriftheweatherisverybadonSundays，particularlyduringthewinter，hecanomitvisitingthemostdistantplaces。Thisisdonethemorereadily，asbutfewofthepeasantswouldbeatchurch；allwholivedatadistanceremainingathome。

TheSysselmann(anofficersimilartothatofthesheriffofacounty)isthebestoff。Hehasagoodsalarywithlittletodo，andinsomeplacesenjoysinadditionthe"strand-right，"whichisattimesnoinconsiderableprivilege，fromthequantityofdrifttimberwashedashorefromtheAmericancontinent。

Fishingandthechaseareopentoall，withtheexceptionofthesalmon-fisheriesintherivers；thesearefarmedbythegovernment。

Eider-duckswaynotbeshot，underpenaltyofafine。Thereisnomilitaryservice，forthroughoutthewholeislandnosoldiersarerequired。EvenReikjavikitselfboastsonlytwopolice-officers。

Commerceisalsofree；buttheislanderspossesssolittlecommercialspirit，thateveniftheyhadthenecessarycapital，theywouldneverembarkinspeculation。

ThewholecommerceofIcelandthusliesinthehandsofDanishmerchants，whosendtheirshipstotheislandeveryyear，andhaveestablishedfactoriesinthedifferentportswheretheretailtradeiscarriedon。

TheseshipsbringeverythingtoIceland，corn，wood，wines，manufacturedgoods，andcolonialproduce，&c。Theimportsarefree，foritwouldnotpaythegovernmenttoestablishoffices，andgiveservantssalariestocollectdutiesuponthesmallamountofproducerequiredfortheisland。Wine，andinfactallcolonialproduce，arethereforemuchcheaperthaninothercountries。

Theexportsconsistoffish，particularlysaltedcod，fish-roe，tallow，train-oil，eider-down，andfeathersofotherbirds，almostequaltoeider-downinsoftness，sheep"swool，andpickledorsaltedlamb。Withtheexceptionofthearticlesjustenumerated，theIcelanderspossessnothing；thirteenyearsago，whenHerrKnudsonestablishedabakehouse，{31}hewascompelledtobringfromCopenhagen，notonlythebuilder，buteventhematerialsforbuilding，stones，lime，&c。；foralthoughtheislandaboundswithmassesofstone，therearenonewhichcanbeusedforbuildinganoven，orwhichcanbeburntintolime:everythingisoflava。

Twoorthreecottagessituatedneareachotherareheredignifiedbythenameofa"place。"Theseplaces，aswellastheseparatecottages，aremostlybuiltonlittleacclivities，surroundedbymeadows。Themeadowsareoftenfencedinwithwallsofstoneorearth，twoorthreefeetinheight，topreventthecows，sheep，andhorsesfromtrespassinguponthemtograze。Thegrassofthesemeadowsismadeintohay，andlaidupasawinterprovisionforthecows。

Ididnothearmanycomplaintsoftheseverityofthecoldinwinter；thetemperatureseldomsinkstotwentydegreesbelowzero；

theseaissometimesfrozen，butonlyafewfeetfromtheshore。

Thesnowstormsandtempests，however，areoftensoviolent，thatitisalmostimpossibletoleavethehouse。Daylightlastsonlyforfiveorsixhours，andtosupplyitsplacethepoorIcelandershaveonlythenorthernlight，whichissaidtoilluminethelongnightswithabrilliancytrulymarvellous。

ThesummerIpassedinIcelandwasoneofthefinesttheinhabitantshadknownforyears。DuringthemonthofJunethethermometeroftenroseatnoontotwentydegrees。Theinhabitantsfoundthisheatsoinsupportable，thattheycomplainedofbeingunabletoworkortogoonmessagesduringtheday-time。Onsuchwarmdaystheywouldonlybegintheirhay-makingintheevening，andcontinuedtheirworkhalfthenight。

Thechangesintheweatherareveryremarkable。Twentydegreesofheatononedaywouldbefollowedbyrainonthenext，withatemperatureofonlyfivedegrees；andonthe5thofJune，ateighto"clockinthemorning，thethermometerstoodatonedegreebelowzero。ItisalsocuriousthatthunderstormshappeninIcelandinwinter，andaresaidnevertooccurduringthesummer。

Fromthe16thor18thofJunetotheendofthemonththereisnonight。Thesunappearsonlytoretireforashorttimebehindamountain，andformssunsetandmorning-dawnatthesametime。Asononesidethelastbeamfadesaway，theorbofdayre-appearsattheoppositeonewithredoubledsplendour。

DuringmystayinIceland，fromthe15thofMaytothe29thofJuly，Ineverretiredtorestbeforeeleveno"clockatnight，andneverrequiredacandle。InMay，andalsointhelatterportionofthemonthofJuly，therewastwilightforanhourortwo，butitneverbecamequitedark。Evenduringthelastdaysofmystay，Icouldreaduntilhalf-pastteno"clock。Atfirstitappearedstrangetometogotobedinbroaddaylight；butIsoonaccustomedmyselftoit，andwheneleveno"clockcame，nosunlightwaspowerfulenoughtocheatmeofmysleep。Ifoundmuchpleasureinwalkingatnight，atpastteno"clock，notinthepalemoonshine，butinthebroadblazeofthesun。

Itwasamuchmoredifficulttasktoaccustommyselftothediet。

Thebaker"swifewasfullycompetenttosuperintendthecookingaccordingtotheDanishandIcelandicschoolsoftheart；butunfortunatelythesemodesofcookerydifferwidelyfromours。Onethingonlywasgood，themorningcupofcoffeewithcream，withwhichthemostaccomplishedgourmandcouldhavefoundnofault:

sincemydeparturefromIcelandIhavenotfoundsuchcoffee。I

couldhavewishedforsomeofmydearViennesefriendstobreakfastwithme。Thecreamwassothick，thatIatfirstthoughtmyhostesshadmisunderstoodme，andbroughtmecurds。ThebuttermadefromthemilkofIcelandiccowsandewesdidnotlookveryinviting，andwasaswhiteaslard，butthetastewasgood。TheIcelanders，however，findthetastenotsufficiently"piquant，"andgenerallyqualifyitwithtrain-oil。Altogether，train-oilplaysaveryprominentpartintheIcelandickitchen；thepeasantconsidersitamostdeliciousarticle，andthinksnothingofdevouringaquantityofitwithoutbread，orindeedanythingelse。{32}

Ididnotatallrelishthedietatdinner；thismealconsistedoftwodishes，namely，boiledfish，withvinegarandmeltedbutterinsteadofoil，andboiledpotatoes。UnfortunatelyIamnoadmireroffish，andnowthiswasmydailyfood。Ah，howIlongedforbeef-

soup，apieceofmeat，andvegetables，invain!AslongasI

remainedinIceland，IwascompelledquitetogiveupmyGermansystemofdiet。

AfteratimeIgotonwellenoughwiththeboiledfishandpotatoes，butIcouldnotmanagethedelicaciesoftheisland。WorthyMadameBernhoft，itwassokindlymeantonherpart；anditwassurelynotherfaultthatthesystemofcookeryinIcelandisdifferentfromours；butIcouldnotbringmyselftoliketheIcelandicdelicacies。

Theywereofdifferentkinds，consistingsometimesoffishes，hard-

boiledeggs，andpotatoeschoppeduptogether，coveredwithathickbrownsauce，andseasonedwithpepper，sugar，andvinegar；atothers，ofpotatoesbakedinbutterandsugar。Anotherdelicacywascabbagechoppedverysmall，renderedverythinbytheadditionofwater，andsweetenedwithsugar；theaccompanyingdishwasapieceofcuredlamb，whichhadaveryunpleasant"pickled"flavour。

OnSundayswesometimeshad"ProtheGrutze，"properlyaScandinaviandish，composedoffinesagoboiledtoajelly，withcurrant-juiceorredwine，andeatenwithcreamorsugar。Tapfen，akindofsoftcheese，isalsosometimeseatenwithcreamandsugar。

InthemonthsofJuneandJulythedietimprovedmaterially。Wecouldoftenprocuresplendidsalmon，sometimesroastlamb，andnowandthenbirds，amongwhichlatterdaintiesthesnipeswereparticularlygood。Intheeveningcamebutter，cheese，coldfish，smokedlamb，andeggsofeider-ducks，whicharecoarserthanhen"seggs。IntimeIbecamesoaccustomedtothiskindoffood，thatI

nolongermissedeithersouporbeef，andfeltuncommonlywell。

Mydrinkwasalwaysclearfreshwater；thegentlemenbegantheirdinnerwithasmallglassofbrandy，andduringthemealalldrankbeerofHerrBernhoft"sownbrewing，whichwasverygood。OnSundays，abottleofportorBordeauxsometimesmadeitsappearanceatourtable；andaswefaredatHerrBernhoft"s，soitwasthecustominthehousesofallthemerchantsandofficials。

AtReikjavikIhadanopportunityofwitnessingagreatreligiousceremony。Threecandidatesoftheologywereraisedtotheministerialoffice。ThoughthewholecommunityhereisLutheran，theceremoniesdifferinmanyrespectsfromthoseofthecontinentofEurope，andIwillthereforegiveashortsketchofwhatIsaw。

Thesolemnitybeganatnoon，andlastedtillfouro"clock。I

noticedatoncethatallthepeoplecoveredtheirfacesforamomentonenteringthechurch，themenwiththeirhats，andthewomenwiththeirhandkerchiefs。Mostofthecongregationsatwiththeirfacesturnedtowardsthealtar；butthisrulehaditsexceptions。Thevestmentsofthepriestswerethesameasthosewornbyourclergymen，andthecommencementoftheservicealsocloselyresembledtheritualofourownChurch；butsoonthisresemblanceceased。Thebishopsteppeduptothealtarwiththecandidates，andperformedcertainceremonies；thenonewouldmountthepulpitandreadpartofasermon，orsingapsalm，whiletheotherclergymensatroundonchairs，andappearedtolisten；thenasecondandathirdascendedthepulpit，andafterwardsanothersermonwaspreachedfromthealtar，andanotherpsalmsung；thenasermonwasagainreadfromthepulpit。Whileceremonieswereperformedatthealtar，thesacerdotalgarmentswereoftenputonandtakenoffagain。Ifrequentlythoughttheservicewascomingtoaclose，butitalwaysbeganafresh，andlasted，asIsaidbefore，untilfouro"clock。Thenumberofformssurprisedmegreatly，astheritualoftheLutheranChurchisingeneralexceedinglysimple。

Onthisoccasionaconsiderablenumberofthecountrypeoplewereassembled，andIhadthusagoodopportunityofnoticingtheircostumes。Thedresseswornbythewomenandgirlsareallmadeofcoarseblackwoollenstuffs。Thedressconsistsofalongskirt，aspencer，andacolouredapron。Ontheirheadstheywearaman"snightcapofblackcloth，thepointturneddownwards，andterminatinginalargetasselofwoolorsilk，whichhangsdowntotheshoulder。

Theirhairisunbound，andreachesonlytotheshoulder:someofthewomenwearitslightlycurled。Iinvoluntarilythoughtofthepoeticaldescriptionsofthenorthernromancers，whogrowenthusiasticinpraiseofideal"angels"headswithgoldentresses。"

Thehairiscertainlyworninthismannerhere，andourpoetsmayhaveborrowedtheirdescriptionsfromtheScandinavians。Butthebeautifulfaceswhicharesaidtobeamforthfromamongthosegoldenlocksexistonlyinthepoet"svividimagination。

Ornamentaladditionstothecostumeareveryrare。InthewholeassemblyIonlynoticedfourwomenwhoweredresseddifferentlyfromtheothers。Thecordswhichfastenedtheirspencers，andalsotheirgirdles，wereornamentedwithagarlandworkedinsilverthread。

Theirskirtswereoffineblackcloth，anddecoratedwithaborderofcolouredsilkafewinchesbroad。Roundtheirneckstheyworeakindofstiffcollarofblackvelvetwithaborderofsilverthread，andontheirheadsablacksilkhandkerchiefwithaverystrangeaddition。Thisappendageconsistedofahalf-moonfastenedtothebackofthehead，andextendingfiveorsixinchesabovetheforehead。Itwascoveredwithwhitelawnarrangedinfolds；itsbreadthatthebackoftheheaddidnotexceedaninchandahalf，butinfrontitwidenedtofiveorsixinches。

Themen，Ifound，wereclothedalmostlikeourpeasants。Theyworesmall-clothesofdarkcloth，jacketsandwaistcoats，felthats，orfurcaps；andinsteadofbootsakindofshoeofox-hide，sheep，orseal-skin，boundtothefeetbyaleatherstrap。Thewomen，andeventhechildrenoftheofficials，allwearshoesofthisdescription。

ItwasveryseldomthatImetpeoplesowretchedlyandpoorlycladaswefindthembuttooofteninthelargecontinentaltowns。I

neversawanyonewithoutgoodwarmshoesandstockings。

Thebetterclasses，suchasmerchants，officials，&c。aredressedintheFrenchstyle，andratherfashionably。Thereisnolackofsilkandothercostlystuffs。SomeofthesearebroughtfromEngland，butthegreaterpartcomefromDenmark。

Ontheking"sbirthday，whichiskepteveryyearatthehouseoftheStiftsamtmann，thefestivitiesaresaidtobeverygrand；onthisoccasionthematronsappeararrayedinsilk，andthemaidensinwhitejaconet；theroomsarelightedwithwaxtapers。

SomespeculativegeniusorotherhasalsoestablishedasortofclubinReikjavik。Hehas，namely，hiredacoupleofrooms，wherethetownspeoplemeetofaneveningtodiscuss"tea-water，"breadandbutter，andsometimesevenabottleofwineorabowlofpunch。Inwintertheproprietorgivesballsintheseapartments，charging20

kr。foreachticketofadmission。Herethetowngrandeesandthehandicraftsmen，infactallwhochoosetocome，assemble；andtheballissaidtobeconductedinaveryrepublicanspirit。TheshoemakerleadsforththewifeoftheStiftsamtmanntothedance，whilethatofficialhimselfhasperhapschosenthewifeordaughteroftheshoemakerorbakerforhispartner。Therefreshmentsconsistof"tea-water"andbreadandbutter，andtheroomislightedwithtallowcandles。Themusic，consistingofakindofthree-stringedviolinandapipe，issaidtobeexquisitelyhorrible。

Insummerthedignitariesmakefrequentexcursionsonhorse-back；

andontheseoccasionsgreatcareistakenthattherebenolackofprovisions。Commonlyeachpersoncontributesashare:somebringwine，otherscake；others，again，coffee，andsoon。TheladiesusefineEnglishside-saddles，andwearelegantriding-habits，andprettyfelthatswithgreenveils。Thesejaunts，however，areconfinedtoReikjavik；for，asIhavealreadyobserved，thereis，withtheexceptionofthistown，noplaceinIcelandcontainingmorethantwoorthreestoresandsomehalf-dozencottages。

Tomygreatsurprise，Ifoundnolessthansixsquarepiano-fortesbelongingtodifferentfamiliesinReikjavik，andheardwaltzesbyourfavouritecomposers，besidesvariationsofHerz，andsomepiecesofLiszt，Wilmers，andThalberg。Butsuchplaying!Idonotthinkthatthesetalentedcomposerswouldhaverecognisedtheirownworks。

Inconclusion，Imustofferafewremarksrelativetothetravellinginthiscountry。

ThebesttimetochooseforthispurposeisfromthemiddleofJunetotheendofAugustatlatest。UntilJunetheriversaresoswollenandturbulent，byreasonofthemeltingsnows，astorenderitverydangeroustoridethroughthem。Thetravellermustalsopassovermanyafieldofsnownotyetmeltedbythesun，andfrequentlyconcealingchasmsandmassesoflava；andthisisattendedwithdangeralmostasgreat。Ateveryfootstepthetravellersinksintothesnow；andhemaythankhisluckystarsifthewholerottensurfacedoesnotgiveway。InSeptembertheviolentstormsofwindandraincommence，andheavyfallsofsnowmaybeexpectedfromdaytoday。

Atent，provisions，cookingutensils，pillows，bed-clothes，andwarmgarments，arehighlynecessaryforthewayfarer"scomfort。Thisparaphernaliawouldhavebeentooexpensiveformetobuy，andIwasunprovidedwithanythingofthekind；consequentlyIwasforcedtoendurethemostdreadfulhardshipsandtoil，andwasfrequentlyobligedtorideanimmensedistancetoreachalittlechurchoracottage，whichwouldaffordmeshelterforthenight。Mysolefoodforeightortendaystogetherwasoftenbreadandcheese；andI

generallypassedthenightuponachestorabench，wherethecoldwouldoftenpreventmyclosingmyeyesallnight。

Itisadvisabletobeprovidedwithawaterproofcloakandasailor"starpaulinhat，asadefenceagainsttherain，whichfrequentlyfalls。Anumbrellawouldbetotallyuseless，astherainisgenerallyaccompaniedbyastorm，or，atanyrate，byastrongwind；whenweaddtothis，thatitisnecessaryinsomeplacestoridequickly，itwilleasilybeseenthatholdinganumbrellaopenisathingnottobethoughtof。

AltogetherIfoundthetravellinginthiscountryattendedwithfarmorehardshipthanintheEast。Formypart，Ifoundthedreadfulstormsofwind，thepiercingair，thefrequentrain，andthecold，muchlessendurablethantheOrientalheat，whichnevergavemeeithercrackedlipsorcausedscalestoappearonmyface。InIcelandmylipsbegantobleedonthefifthday；andafterwardstheskincameoffmyfaceinscales，asifIhadhadthescrofula。

Anothersourceofgreatdiscomfortistobefoundinthelongriding-habit。Itisrequisitetobeverywarmlyclad；andtheheavyskirts，oftendrippingwithrain，coilthemselvesroundthefeetofthewearerinsuchamanner，astorenderherexceedinglyawkwardeitherinmountingordismounting。Theworsthardshipofall，however，isthebeingobligedtohalttorestthehorsesinameadowduringtherain。Thelongskirtssuckupthewaterfromthedampgrass，andthewearerhasoftenliterallynotadrystitchinallhergarments。

Heatandcoldappearinthiscountrytoaffectstrangersinaremarkabledegree。Thecoldseemedtomemorepiercing，andtheheatmoreoppressiveinIceland，thanwhenthethermometerstoodatthesamepointsinmynativeland。

Insummertheroadsaremarvellouslygood，sothatonecangenerallyrideataprettyquickpace。Theyare，however，impracticableforvehicles，partlybecausetheyaretoonarrow，andpartlyalsoonaccountofsomeverybadplaceswhichmustoccasionallybeencountered。Onthewholeislandnotasinglecarriageistobefound。

Theroadisonlydangerouswhenitleadsthroughswampsandmoors，oroverfieldsoflava。Amongthesefields，suchasarecoveredwithwhitemossarepeculiarlytobefeared，forthemossfrequentlyconcealsverydangerousholes，intowhichthehorsecaneasilystumble。Inascendinganddescendingthehillsveryformidablespotssometimesopposethetraveller"sprogress。Theroadisattimessohiddenamongswampsandbogs，thatnotatraceofitistobedistinguished，andIcouldonlywonderhowmyguidealwayssucceededinregainingtherightpath。Onecouldalmostsupposethatonthesedangerouspathsbothhorseandmanareguidedbyakindofinstinct。

TravellingismoreexpensiveinIcelandthananywhereelse，particularlywhenonepersontravelsalone，andmustbearalltheexpenseofthebaggage，theguide，ferries，&c。Horsesarenotletoutonhire，theymustbebought。Theyare，however，verycheap；apack-horsecostsfromeighteentotwenty-fourflorins，andariding-

horsefromfortytofiftyflorins。Totravelwithanyideaofcomfortitisnecessarytohaveseveralpack-horses，fortheymustnotbeheavilyladen；andanadditionalservantmustlikewisebehired，astheguideonlylooksafterthesaddle-horses，and，atmost，oneortwoofthepack-horses。Ifthetraveller，attheconclusionofthejourney，wishestosellthehorses，suchawretchedlylowpriceisoffered，thatitisjustaswelltogivethemawayatonce。Thisisaproofofthefactthatmenareeverywherealikereadytofollowuptheiradvantage。Thesepeoplearewellawarethatthehorsesmustbeleftbehindatanyrate，andthereforetheywillnotbidforthem。ImustconfessthatIfoundthecharacteroftheIcelandersineveryrespectbelowtheestimateIhadpreviouslyformedofit，andstillfurtherbelowthestandardgiveninbooks。

Inspiteoftheirscantyfood，theIcelandichorseshaveamarvellouspowerofendurance；theycanoftentravelfromthirty-

fivetofortymilesperdiemforseveralconsecutivedays。Buttheonlydifficultyistokeepthehorsemoving。TheIcelandershaveahabitofcontinuallykickingtheirheelsagainstthepoorbeast"ssides；andthehorseatlastgetssoaccustomedtothismodeoftreatment，thatitwillhardlygoifthestimulusbediscontinued。

Inpassingthebadpiecesofroaditisnecessarytokeepthebridletightinhand，orthehorsewillstumblefrequently。Thisandthecontinualurgingforwardofthehorserenderridingveryfatiguing。

{33}

Notalittleconsiderationiscertainlyrequiredbeforeundertakingajourneyintothefarnorth；butnothingfrightenedme，——andeveninthemidstofthegreatestdangersandhardshipsIdidnotforonemomentregretmyundertaking，andwouldnothaverelinquisheditunderanyconsideration。

ImadeexcursionstoeverypartofIceland，andamthusenabledtoplacebeforemyreaders，inregularorder，thechiefcuriositiesofthisremarkablecountry。IwillcommencewiththeimmediateneighbourhoodofReikjavik。

CHAPTERIV

May25th。

StiftsamtmannvonH-wastodaykindenoughtopaymeavisit，andtoinvitemetojoinhispartyforaridetothegreatlakeVatne。I

gladlyacceptedtheinvitation，for，accordingtothedescriptiongivenbytheStiftsamtmann，IhopedtobeholdaveryEden，andrejoicedattheprospectofobservingtherecreationsofthehigherclasses，andatthesametimegainingmanyacquisitionsinspecimensofplants，butterflies，andbeetles。IresolvedalsototestthecapabilitiesoftheIcelandichorsesmorethoroughlythanIhadbeenabletododuringmyfirstridefromHavenfiordtoReikjavik，asI

hadbeenobligedonthatoccasiontorideatafoot-pace，onaccountofmyoldguide。

Thehourofstartingwasfixedfortwoo"clock。AccustomedasIamtostrictpunctuality，Iwasreadylongbeforetheappointedtime，andattwoo"clockwasabouttohastentotheplaceofrendezvous，whenmyhostessinformedmeIhadplentyoftime，forHerrvonH-

wasstillatdinner。Insteadofmeetingattwoo"clock，wedidnotassembleuntilthree，andeventhenanotherquarterofanhourelapsedbeforethecavalcadestarted。Oh，Syriannotionsofpunctualityanddispatch!Here，almostattheveryantipodes，didI

oncemoregreetye。

Thepartyconsistedofthenobilityandthetowndignitaries。AmongtheformerclassmaybereckonedStiftsamtmannvonH-andhislady；

aprivycouncillor，HerrvonB-，whohadbeensentfromCopenhagentoattendthe"Allthing"(politicalassembly)；andaDanishbaron，whohadaccompaniedthecouncillor。Inoticedamongthetowndignitariesthedaughterandwifeoftheapothecary，andthedaughtersofsomemerchantsresidenthere。

Ourroadlaythroughfieldsoflava，swamps，andverypoorgrassypatches，inagreatvalley，swellinghereandthereintogentleacclivities，andshutinonthreesidesbyseveralrowsofmountains，toweringupwardsinthemostdiversifiedshapes。Inthefardistanceroseseveraljokulsorglaciers，seemingtolookproudlydownuponthemountains，asthoughtheyasked，"Whywouldyedrawmen"seyesuponyou，whereweglisteninoursilversheen?"IntheseasonoftheyearatwhichIbeheldthem，theglacierswerestillverybeautiful；notonlytheirsummits，buttheirentiresurface，asfarasvisible，beingcoveredwithsnow。Thefourthsideofthevalleythroughwhichwetravelledwaswashedbytheocean，whichmeltedasitwereintothehorizoninimmeasurabledistance。Thecoastwasdottedwithsmallbays，havingtheappearanceofsomanylakes。

Astheroadwasgood，wecouldgenerallyrideforwardatabriskpace。Occasionally，however，wemetwithsmalltractsonwhichtheIcelandichorsecouldexerciseitssagacityandaddress。Myhorsewascarefulandfreefromvice；itcarriedmesecurelyovermassesofstoneandchasmsintherocks，butIcannotdescribethesufferingitstrotcausedme。Itissaidthatridingismostbeneficialtothosewhosufferfromliver-complaints。Thismaybethecase；butIshouldsupposethatanyonewhorodeuponanIcelandichorse，withanIcelandicside-saddle，everydayforthespaceoffourweeks，wouldfind，attheexpirationofthattime，herlivershakentoapulp，andnopartofitremaining。

AlltherestofthepartyhadgoodEnglishsaddles，minealonewasofIcelandicorigin。Itconsistedofachair，withaboardfortheback。Theriderwasobligedtositcrookeduponthehorse，anditwasimpossibletokeepafirmseat。WithmuchdifficultyItrottedaftertheothers，formyhorsewouldnotbeinducedtobreakintoagallop。

Atlength，afterarideofanhourandahalf，wereachedavalley。

InthemidstofatolerablygreenmeadowIdescriedwhatwas，forIceland，afarmofconsiderabledimensions，andnotfarfromthisfarmwasaverysmalllake。IdidnotdaretoaskifthiswastheGREATlakeVatne，orifthiswasthedeliciousprospectIhadbeenpromised，formyquestionwouldhavebeentakenforirony。IcouldnotrefrainfromwonderwhenHerrvonH-beganpraisingthelandscapeasexquisite，andfartherdeclaringtheeffectofthelaketobebewitching。Iwasobliged，forpoliteness"sake，toacquiesce，andleavetheminthesuppositionthatIhadneverseenalargerlakenorafinerprospect。

Wenowmadeahalt，andthewholepartyencampedinthemeadow。

Whilethepreparationsforasocialmealweregoingon，Iproceededtosatisfymycuriosity。

Thepeasant"shousefirstattractedmyattention。Ifoundittoconsistofonelargechamber，andtwoofsmallersize，besidesastoreroomandextensivestables，fromwhichIjudgedthattheproprietorwasrichincattle。Iafterwardslearntthatheownedfiftysheep，eightcows，andfivehorses，andwaslookeduponasoneoftherichestfarmersintheneighbourhood。Thekitchenwassituatedattheextremeendofthebuilding，andwasfurnishedwithachimneythatseemedintendedonlyasaprotectionagainstrainandsnow，forthesmokedisperseditselfthroughoutthewholekitchen，dryingthefishwhichhungfromtheceiling，andslowlymakingitsexitthroughanair-hole。

Thelargeapartmentboastedawoodenbookshelf，containingaboutfortyvolumes。SomeoftheseIturnedover，andinspiteofmylimitedknowledgeoftheDanishlanguage，couldmakeoutenoughtodiscoverthattheywerechieflyonreligioussubjects。Butthefarmerseemedalsotolovepoetry；amongtheworksofthisclassinhislibrary，InoticedKleist，Muller，andevenHomer"sOdyssey。I

couldmakenothingoftheIcelandicbooks；butoninquiringtheircontents，Iwastoldthattheyalltreatedofreligiousmatters。

Afterinspectingthese，Iwalkedoutintothemeadowtosearchforflowersandherbs。FlowersIfoundbutfew，asitwasnottherighttimeoftheyearforthem；mysearchforherbswasmoresuccessful，andIevenfoundsomewildclover。Isawneitherbeetlesnorbutterflies；but，tomynosmallsurprise，heardthehummingoftwowildbees，oneofwhichIwasfortunateenoughtocatch，andtookhometopreserveinspiritsofwine。

Onrejoiningmyparty，Ifoundthemencampedinthemeadowaroundatable，whichhadinthemeantimebeenspreadwithbutter，cheese，bread，cake，roastlamb，raisinsandalmonds，afeworanges，andwine。Neitherchairsnorbenchesweretobehad，forevenwealthypeasantsonlypossessplanksnailedtothewallsoftheirrooms；soweallsatdownuponthegrass，anddidamplejusticetothecapitalcoffeewhichmadethecommencementofthemeal。Laughterandjokespredominatedtosuchanextent，thatIcouldhavefanciedmyselfamongimpulsiveItaliansinsteadofcoldNorthmen。

Therewasnolackofwit；butto-dayIwasunfortunatelyitsbutt。

Andwhatwasmyfault?——onlymystupidmodesty。TheconversationwascarriedonintheDanishlanguage；somemembersofourpartyspokeFrenchandothersGerman，butIpurposelyabstainedfromavailingmyselfoftheiracquirements，inordernottodisturbthehilarityoftheconversation。Isatsilentlyamongthem，andwasperfectlycontentedinlisteningtotheirmerriment。Butmybehaviourwassetdownasproceedingfromstupidity，andIsoongatheredfromtheirdiscoursethattheywerecomparingmetothe"stoneguest"inMozart"sDonGiovanni。Ifthesekindpeoplehadonlysurmisedthetruereasonofmykeepingsilence，theywouldperhapshavethankedmefordoingso。

Aswesatatourmeal，IheardavoiceinthefarmhousesinginganIcelandicsong。Atadistanceitresembledthehummingofbees；onanearerapproachitsoundedmonotonous，drawling，andmelancholy。

Whilewewerepreparingforourdeparture，thefarmer，hiswife，andtheservantsapproached，andshookeachofusbythehand。ThisistheusualmodeofsalutingsuchHIGHpeopleaswenumberedamongourparty。Thetruenationalsalutationisaheartykiss。

Onmyarrivalathometheeffectofthestrongcoffeesoonbegantomanifestitself。Icouldnotsleepatall，andhadthusampleleisuretomakeaccurateobservationsastothelengthofthedayandofthetwilight。Untileleveno"clockatnightIcouldreadordinaryprintinmyroom。Fromeleventilloneo"clockitwasdusk，butneversodarkastopreventmyreadingintheopenair。

Inmyroom，too，Icoulddistinguishthesmallestobjects，andeventellthetimebymywatch。Atoneo"clockIcouldagainreadinmyroom。

EXCURSIONTOVIDOE。

ThelittleislandofVidoe，fourmilesdistantfromReikjavik，isdescribedbymosttravellersasthechiefresortoftheeider-duck。

Ivisitedtheislandonthe8thofJune，butwasdisappointedinmyexpectations。Icertainlysawmanyofthesebirdsonthedeclivitiesandinthechasmsoftherocks，sittingquietlyontheirnests，butnothingapproachingthethousandsIhadbeenledtoexpect。Onthewhole，Imayperhapshaveseenfromonehundredtoahundredandfiftynests。

Themostremarkablecircumstanceconnectedwiththeeider-ducksistheirtamenessduringtheperiodofincubation。Ihadalwaysregardedasmythsthestoriestoldabouttheminthisrespect，andshoulddosostillhadInotconvincedmyselfofthetruthoftheseassertionsbylayinghandsupontheducksmyself。Icouldgoquiteuptothemandcaressthem，andeventhentheywouldnotoftenleavetheirnests。Somefewbirds，indeed，didsowhenIwishedtotouchthem；buttheydidnotflyup，butcontentedthemselveswithcoollywalkingafewpacesawayfromthenest，andtheresittingquietlydownuntilIhaddeparted。Butthosewhichalreadyhadliveyoung，beatoutboldlywiththeirwingswhenIapproached，struckatmewiththeirbills，andallowedthemselvestobetakenupbodilyratherthanleavethenest。Theyareaboutthesizeofourducks；

theireggsareofagreenishgrey，ratherlargerthanhen"seggs，andtasteverywell。Altogethertheylayabouteleveneggs。Thefinestdownisthatwithwhichtheylinetheirnestsatfirst；itisofadarkgreycolour。TheIcelanderstakeawaythisdown，andthefirstnestofeggs。Thepoorbirdnowrobsherselfoncemoreofaquantityofdown(whichis，however，notofsofineaqualityasthefirst)，andagainlayseggs。Forthesecondtimeeverythingistakenfromher；andnotuntilshehasathirdtimelinedthenestwithherdownistheeider-duckleftinpeace。Thedownofthesecond，andthatofthethirdqualityespecially，aremuchlighterthanthatofthefirst。Ialsowassufficientlycrueltotakeafeweggsandsomedownoutofseveralofthenests。{34}

Ididnotwitnessthedangerousoperationofcollectingthisdownfrombetweenthecleftsofrocksandfromunapproachableprecipices，wherepeopleareletdown，ortowhichtheyaredrawnup，byropes，atperiloftheirlives。Thereare，however，noneofthesebreak-

neckplacesintheneighbourhoodofReikjavik。

SALMONFISHERY。

Imadeanotherexcursiontoaveryshortdistance(twomiles)fromReikjavik，inthecompanyofHerrBernhoftandhisdaughter，totheLaxselv(salmonriver)towitnessthesalmon-fishing，whichtakesplaceeveryweekfromthemiddleofJunetothemiddleofAugust。

Itisconductedinaverysimplemanner。Thefishcomeuptheriverinthespawningseason；thestreamisthendammedupwithseveralwallsofstonelooselypiledtotheheightofsomethreefeet；andtheretreatofthefishtotheseaisthuscutoff。Whenthedayarrivesonwhichthesalmonaretobecaught，anetisspreadbehindeachofthesewalls。Threeorfoursuchdamsareerectedatintervals，offromeightytoahundredpaces，sothatevenifthefishesescapeonebarrier，theyaregenerallycaughtatthenext。

Thewaterisnowmadetorunoffasmuchaspossible；thepoorsalmondarttoandfro，becomingeverymomentmoreandmoreawareofthesinkingofthewater，andcrowdtotheweirs，cuttingthemselvesbycontactwiththesharpstonesofwhichtheyarebuilt。Thisisthedeepestpartofthewater；anditissoonsothrongedwithfish，thatmen，stationedinreadiness，canseizethemintheirhandsandflingthemashore。

Thesalmonpossessremarkableswiftnessandstrength。Thefishermanisobligedtotakethemquicklybytheheadandtail，andtothrowthemashore，whentheyareimmediatelycaughtbyothermen，whoflingthemstillfartherfromthewater。Ifthisisnotdonewithgreatquicknessandcare，manyofthefishesescape。Itiswonderfulhowthesecreaturescanstrugglethemselvesfree，andleapintotheair。Thefishermenareobligedtowearwoollenmittens，ortheywouldbequiteunabletoholdthesmoothsalmon。Ateveryday"sfishing，fromfivehundredtoathousandfisharetaken，eachweighingfromfivetofifteenpounds。OnthedaywhenIwaspresenteighthundredwerekilled。Thissalmon-streamisfarmedbyamerchantofReikjavik。

Thefishermenreceiveveryliberalpay，——infact，one-halfofthefishtaken。Andyettheyaredissatisfied，andshowsolittlegratitude，asseldomtofinishtheirworkproperly。So，forinstance，theyonlybroughttheshareofthemerchanttotheharbourofReikjavik，andwerefartoolazytocarrythesalmonfromtheboattothewarehouse，adistancecertainlynotmorethansixtyorseventypacesfromtheshore。Theysentamessagetotheiremployer，biddinghim"sendsomefreshhands，fortheyweremuchtootired。"Ofcourse，inacaselikethis，allremonstranceisunavailing。

Asintherestoftheworld，soalsoinIceland，everyoccasionthatoffersisseizeduponforafeastoramerry-making。ThedayonwhichIwitnessedthesalmon-fishinghappenedtobeoneofthefewfinedaysthatoccurduringasummerinIceland。Itwasthereforeunanimouslyconcludedbyseveralmerchants，thatthedayandthesalmon-fishingshouldbecelebratedbyadejeuneralafourchette。

Everyonecontributedsomething，andaplentifulandelegantbreakfastwassoonarranged，whichquiteresembledanentertainmentofthekindinourcountry；thisonecircumstanceexcepted，thatwewereobligedtoseatourselvesontheground，byreasonofascarcityoftablesandbenches。SpanishandFrenchwines，aswellascoldpunch，werethereinplenty，andthegreatesthilarityprevailed。

Imadeafourthexcursion，buttoaveryinconsiderabledistance，——

infact，onlyamileandahalffromReikjavik。Itwastoseeahotandslightlysulphurousspring，whichfallsintoariverofcoldwater。Bythisluckymeetingofextremes，watercanbeobtainedatanytemperature，fromtheboilingalmosttothefreezingpoint。Thetownspeopletakeadvantageofthisgoodopportunityintwoways，forbathingandforwashingclothes。Thelatterisundoubtedlythemoreimportantpurposeofapplication，andahuthasbeenerected，inordertoshieldthepoorpeoplefromwindandrainwhiletheyareatwork。Formerlythishutwasfurnishedwithagooddoorandwithglazedwindows，andthekeywaskeptatanappointedplaceinthetown，whenceanyonemightfetchit。Buttheservantsandpeasantgirlsweresoontoolazytogoforthekey；theyburstopenthelock，andsmashedthewindows，sothatnowthehuthasaveryruinousappearance，andaffordsbutlittleprotectionagainsttheweather。Howmuchalikemankindareeverywhere，andhowseldomtheydoright，exceptwhenitgivesthemnotrouble，andthen，unfortunately，thereisnotmuchmerittobeascribedtothem，astheirdoingrightismerelytheresultofaluckychance!Manypeoplealsobringfishandpotatoes，whichtheyhaveonlytolayinthehotwater，andinashorttimebotharecompletelycooked。

Thisspringisbutlittleusedforthepurposeofbathing；atmostperhapsbyafewchildrenandpeasants。Itsmedicinalvirtues，ifitpossessesany，arecompletelyunknown。

THESULPHUR-SPRINGSANDSULPHUR-MOUNTAINSOFKRISUVIK。

The4thofJunewasfixedformydeparture。Ihadonlytopackupsomebreadandcheese，sugarandcoffee，thenthehorsesweresaddled，andatseveno"clockthejourneywashappilycommenced。I

wasalonewithmyguide，who，liketherestofhisclass，couldnotbeconsideredasaveryfavourablespecimenofhumanity。Hewasverylazy，exceedinglyself-interested，andsingularlyloathtodevoteanypartofhisattentioneithertomeortothehorses，preferringtoconcentrateituponbrandy，anarticlewhichcanunfortunatelybeprocuredthroughoutthewholecountry。

IhadalreadyseenthedistrictbetweenReikjavikandHavenfiordatmyfirstarrivalinIceland。Atthepresentadvancedseasonoftheyearitworealessgloomyaspect:strawberry-plantsandviolets，——

theformer，however，withoutblossoms，andthelatterinodorous，——

werespringingupbetweentheblocksoflava，togetherwithbeautifulfernseightortenincheshigh。Inspiteofthetriflingdistance，Inoticed，asarule，thatvegetationwasheremoreluxuriantthanatReikjavik；foratthelatterplaceIhadfoundnostrawberry-plants，andthevioletswerenotyetinblossom。Thisdifferenceinthevegetationis，Ithink，tobeascribedtothehighwallsoflavaexistingingreatabundanceroundHavenfiord；theyprotectthetenderplantsandfernsfromthepiercingwinds。I

noticedthatboththegrassandtheplantsbeforementionedthrovecapitallyinthelittlehollowsformedbymassesoflava。

AcoupleofmilesbeyondHavenfiordIsawthefirstbirch-trees，which，however，didnotexceedtwoorthreefeetinheight，alsosomebilberry-plants。Anumberoflittlebutterflies，allofonecolour，and，asitseemedtome，ofthesamespecies，flutteredamongtheshrubsandplants。

Themanifoldformsandvariedoutlineofthelava-fieldspresentaremarkableandreallyamarvellousappearance。Shortasthisjourneyis——fortenhoursareamplysufficientforthetriptoKrisuvik，——itpresentsinnumerablefeaturesforcontemplation。I

couldonlygazeandwonder。Iforgoteverythingaroundme，feltneithercoldnorstorm，andletmyhorsepickhiswayasslowlyashechose，sothatIhadoncealmostbecomeseparatedfrommyguide。

Oneofthemostconsiderableofthestreamsoflavalayinaspaciousbroadvalley。Thelava-streamitself，abouttwomileslong，andofaconsiderablebreadth，traversingthewholeoftheplain，seemedtohavebeencalledintoexistencebymagic，astherewasnomountaintobeseenintheneighbourhoodfromwhichitcouldhaveemerged。Itappearedtobethecoveringofanimmensecrater，formed，notofseparatestonesandblocks，butofasingleandslightlyporousmassofrocktenortwelvefeetthick，brokenhereandtherebycleftsaboutafootinbreadth。

Another，andastilllargervalley，manymilesincircumference，wasfilledwithmassesoflavashapedlikewaves，remindingthebeholderofapetrifiedsea。Fromthemidstroseahighblackmountain，contrastingbeautifullywiththesurroundingmassesoflight-greylava。AtfirstIsupposedthelavamusthavestreamedforthfromthismountain，butsoonfoundthatthelatterwasperfectlysmoothonallsides，andterminatedinasharppeak。Theremainingmountainswhichshutinthevalleywerealsoperfectlyclosed，andI

lookedinvainforanytraceofacrater。

Wenowreachedasmalllake，andsoonafterwardsarrivedatalargerone，calledKleinfarvatne。Bothwerehemmedinbymountains，whichfrequentlyroseabruptlyfromthewaters，leavingnoroomforthepassageofthehorses。Wewereobligedsometimestoclimbthemountainsbyfearfullydizzypaths；atotherstoscrambledownwards，almostclingingtothefaceoftherock。Atsomepointswewereevencompelledtodismountfromourhorses，andscrambleforwardonourhandsandknees。Inaword，thesedangerouspoints，whichextendedoveraspaceofaboutsevenmiles，werecertainlyquiteasbadasanyIhadencounteredinSyria；ifanything，theywereevenmoreformidable。

Iwas，however，assuredthatIshouldhavenomoresuchplacestoencounterduringallmyfurtherjourneysinIceland，andthisinformationquitereconciledmetotheroadsinthiscountry。Fortherest，thepathwasgenerallytolerablysafeevenduringthistour，whichcontinuallyledmeacrossfieldsoflava。

Ajourneyofsomeeight-and-twentymilesbroughtusatlengthintoafriendlyvalley；cloudsofsmoke，bothsmallandgreat，weresoondiscoveredrisingfromthesurroundingheights，andalsofromthevalleyitself；thesewerethesulphur-springsandsulphur-mountains。

IcouldhardlyrestrainmyimpatiencewhilewetraversedthecoupleofmileswhichseparatedusfromKrisuvik。Afewsmalllakeswerestilltobecrossed；andatlength，atsixo"clockintheevening，wereachedourdestination。

Withtheexceptionofamorselofbreadandcheese，Ihadeatennothingsincethemorning；stillIcouldnotsparetimetomakecoffee，butatoncedismounted，summonedmyguide，andcommencedmypilgrimagetothesmokingmountains。Attheoutsetourwaylayacrossswampyplacesandmeadowlands；butsoonwehadtoclimbthemountainsthemselves，ataskrenderedextremelydifficultbytheelastic，yieldingsoil，inwhicheveryfootstepimprinteditselfdeeply，suggestingtothetravellertheunpleasantpossibilityofhissinkingthrough，——acontingencyrenderedanythingbutagreeablebytheneighbourhoodoftheboilingsprings。AtlengthIgainedthesummit，andsawaroundmenumerousbasinsfilledwithboilingwater，whileonallsides，fromhillandvalley，columnsofvapourroseoutofnumberlesscleftsintherocks。Fromacleftinonerockinparticularamightycolumnofvapourwhirledintotheair。OnthewindwardsideIcouldapproachthisplaceveryclosely。Thegroundwasonlylukewarminsomeplaces，andIcouldholdmyhandforseveralmomentstothegapsfromwhichsteamissued。Notraceofacraterwastobeseen。Thebubblingandhissingofthesteam，addedtothenoiseofthewind，occasionedsuchadeafeningclamour，thatIwasverygladtofeelfirmergroundbeneathmyfeet，andtoleavetheplaceinhaste。Itreallyseemedasiftheinteriorofthemountainhadbeenaboilingcaldron。Theprospectfromthesemountainsisveryfine。Numerousvalleysandmountainsinnumerableofferedthemselvestomyview，andIcouldevendiscerntheisolatedblackrockpastwhichIhadriddenfiveorsixhourspreviously。

Inowcommencedmydescentintothevalley；atafewhundredpacesthebubblingandhissingwerealreadyinaudible。IsupposedthatI

hadseeneverythingworthyofnotice；butmuchthatwasremarkablestillremained。Iparticularlynoticedabasinsomefiveorsixfeetindiameter，filledwithboilingmud。Thismudhasquitetheappearanceoffineclaydissolvedinwater；itscolourwasalightgrey。

Fromanotherbasin，hardlytwofeetindiameter，amightycolumnofsteamshotcontinuallyintotheairwithsomuchforceandnoisethatIstartedbackhalfstunned，andcouldhavefanciedthevaultofheavenwouldburst。Thisbasinissituatedinacornerofthevalley，closelyshutinonthreesidesbyhills。Intheneighbourhoodmanyhotspringsgushedforth；butIsawnocolumnsofwater，andmyguideassuredmethatsuchaphenomenonwasneverwitnessedhere。

Thereismoredangerinpassingthesespotsthanevenintraversingthemountains。Inspiteofthegreatestprecautions，Ifrequentlysankinabovetheankles，andwouldthendrawbackwithastart，andfindmyfootcoveredwithhotmud。FromtheplacewhereIhadbrokenthrough，steamandhotmud，orboilingwater，roseintotheair。

Thoughmyguide，whowalkedbeforeme，carefullyprobedthegroundwithhisstick，heseveraltimessankthroughhalf-waytotheknee。

Thesemenare，however，somuchaccustomedtocontingenciesofthiskindthattheytakelittleaccountofthem。Myguidewouldquietlyrepairtothenextspringandcleansehisclothesfrommud。AsI

wascoveredwithittoabovetheankles，Ithoughtitbesttofollowhisexample。

Forexcursionsliketheseitisbesttocomeprovidedwithafewboards，fiveorsixfeetinlength，withwhichtocoverthemostdangerousplaces。

Atnineo"clockintheevening，butyetinthefullglareofthesun，wearrivedatKrisuvik。Inowtooktimetolookatthisplace，whichIfoundtoconsistofasmallchurchandafewmiserablehuts。

Icreptintooneofthesedens；itwassodarkthataconsiderabletimeelapsedbeforeIcoulddistinguishobjects，thelightwasonlyadmittedthroughaverysmallaperture。Ifoundinthishutafewpersonswhoweresufferingfromtheeruptioncalled"lepra，"adiseasebuttoocommonlymetwithinIceland。Theirhandsandfaceswerecompletelycoveredwiththiseruption；ifitspreadsoverthewholebodythepatientlanguishesslowlyaway，andislostwithoutremedy。

Churchesareinthiscountrynotonlyusedforpurposesofpublicworship，butalsoserveasmagazinesforprovisions，clothes，&c。，andasinnsfortravellers。Idonotsupposethataparallelinstanceofdesecrationcouldbemetwithevenamongthemostuncivilisednations。Iwasassured，indeed，thattheseabuseswereabouttoberemedied。Areformofthiskindoughttohavebeencarriedoutlongago；andevennowthematterseemstoremainanopenpoint；forwhereverIcamethechurchwasplacedatmydisposalforthenight，andeverywhereIfoundastoreoffish，tallow，andotherequallyodoriferoussubstances。