第3章

Tobecheerfulinthemidstofallthisrequiresaveryquietandcontentedmind。ThattheDanishsailorsarecontented，IhadmanyopportunitiesofobservingduringthevoyageofwhichIamspeaking，andonseveralotheroccasions。

Butafterallthislongdescription，itishightimethatIshouldreturntothejourneyitself。

ThefavourablegalewhichhadthuswaftedustothecoastofIcelandwithinsevendays，nowunfortunatelychangeditsdirection，anddroveusback。Wedriftedaboutinthestorm-tostocean，andmanyaSpanishwave{22}brokecompletelyoverourship。TwiceweattemptedtoapproachtheWestmannIslands{23}(agroupbelongingtoIceland)towatchanopportunityofcastinganchor，andsettingashoreourfellow-travellerHerrBruge；butitwasinvain，weweredrivenbackeachtime。Atlength，atthecloseoftheeleventhday，wereachedHavenfiord，averygoodharbour，distantninemilesfromReikjavik，thecapitalofIceland。

Inspiteoftheveryinopportunechangeinthedirectionofthewind，wehadhadanunprecedentedlyquickpassage。ThedistancefromCopenhagentoIceland，inastraightline，isreckonedat1200

geographicalmiles；forasailingvessel，whichmusttacknowandthen，andmustgoasmuchwiththewindaspossible，1500to1600

miles。Hadthestrongwind，whichwasatfirstsofavourable，insteadofchangingontheseventhday，heldonforthirtyorfortyhourslonger，weshouldhavelandedinIcelandontheeighthorninthday——eventhesteamercouldnothaveaccomplishedthepassagesoquickly。

TheshoresofIcelandappearedtomequitedifferentfromwhatIhadsupposedthemtobefromthedescriptionsIhadread。Ihadfanciedthemnaked，withouttreeorshrub，drearyanddesert；butnowIsawgreenhills，shrubs，andevenwhatappearedtobegroupsofstuntedtrees。Aswecamenearer，however，Iwasenabledtodistinguishobjectsmoreclearly，andthegreenhillsbecamehumandwellingswithsmalldoorsandwindows，whilethesupposedgroupsoftreesprovedinrealitytobeheapsoflava，sometenortwelvefeethigh，thicklycoveredwithmossandgrass。Everythingwasnewandstrikingtome；Iwaitedingreatimpatiencetillwecouldland。

Atlengththeanchordescended；butitwasnottillnextmorningthatthehourofdisembarkationanddeliverancecame。

Butonemorenight，andthen，everydifficultyovercome，IshouldtreadtheshoresofIceland，thelonged-for，andbaskasitwereinthewondersofthisisland，sopoorinthecreationsofart，sorichinthephenomenaofNature。

BeforeIlandinIceland，Imusttroublethereaderwithafewpreliminaryobservationsregardingthisisland。TheyaredrawnfromMackenzie"sDescriptionofIceland，abookthesterlingvalueofwhichisappreciatedeverywhere。{24}

ThediscoveryofIceland，abouttheyearofourLord860，isattributedtothespiritofenterpriseofsomeSwedishandNorwegianpirates，whoweredriftedthitheronavoyagetotheFeroeIsles。

Itwasnottilltheyear874thattheislandwaspeopledbyanumberofvoluntaryemigrants，who，feelingunhappyunderthedominionofHaroldHarfraga(finehair)，arrivedattheislandunderthedirectionofIngold。{25}Asthenewcomersaresaidtohavefoundnotracesofdwellings，theyarepresumedtobethefirstwhotookpossessionoftheisland。

AtthistimeIcelandwasstillsocompletelycoveredwithunderwood，thatatsomepointsitwasnecessarytocutapassage。Bringingwiththemtheirlanguage，religion，customs，andhistoricalmonuments，theNorwegiansintroducedakindoffeudalsystem，which，abouttheyear928，gaveplacetoasomewhataristocraticgovernment，retaining，however，thenameofarepublic。Theislandwasdividedintofourprovinces，overeachofwhichwasplacedanhereditarygovernororjudge。

TheGeneralAssemblyofIceland(calledAllthing)washeldannuallyontheshoresoftheLakeThingvalla。Thepeoplepossessedanexcellentcodeoflaws，inwhichprovisionhadbeenmadeforeverycasewhichcouldoccur。

Thisstateofthingslastedformorethan300years，aperiodwhichmaybecalledthegoldenageofIceland。Education，literature，andevenrefinedpoetryflourishedamongtheinhabitants，whotookpartincommerceandinthesea-voyageswhichtheNorwegiansundertookforpurposesofdiscovery。

The"Sagas，"orhistoriesofthiscountry，containmanytalesofpersonalbravery。Itsbardsandhistoriansvisitedotherclimes，becamethefavouritesofmonarchs，andreturnedtotheirislandcoveredwithhonourandloadedwithpresents。TheEdda，bySamund，isoneofthemostvaluedpoemsoftheancientdaysofIceland。ThesecondportionoftheEdda，calledSkalda，datesfromalaterperiod，andisascribedbymanytothecelebratedSnorriSturluson。

Isleif，firstBishopofSkalholt，wastheearliestIcelandichistorian；afterhimcamethenotedSnorriSturluson，bornin1178，whobecametherichestandmightiestmaninIceland。

SnorriSturlusonwasfrequentlyfollowedtotheGeneralAssemblyofIcelandbyasplendidretinueof800armedmen。Hewasagreathistorianandpoet，andpossessedanaccurateknowledgeoftheGreekandLatintongues，besidesbeingapowerfulorator。HewasalsotheauthoroftheHeims-kringla。

ThefirstschoolwasfoundedatSkalholt，aboutthemiddleoftheeleventhcentury，underIsleif，firstBishopofIceland；fourotherschoolsandseveralconventssoonfollowed。Poetryandmusicseemtohaveformedastaplebranchofeducation。

TheclimateofIcelandappearstohavebeenlessinclementthanisnowthecase；cornissaidtohavegrown，andtreesandshrubswerelargerandthickerthanwefindthematpresent。ThepopulationofIcelandwasalsomuchmorenumerousthanitisnow，althoughtherewereneithertownsnorvillages。Thepeoplelivedscatteredthroughouttheisland；andtheGeneralAssemblywasheldatThingvalla，intheopenair。

FishingconstitutedthechiefemploymentoftheIcelanders。Theirclothingwaswovenfromthewooloftheirsheep。Commercewithneighbouringcountriesopenedtothemanotherfieldofoccupation。

ThedoctrinesofChristianitywerefirstintroducedintoIceland，intheyear981，byFriederich，aSaxonbishop。Manychurcheswerebuilt，andtithesestablishedforthemaintenanceoftheclergy。

Isleif，firstBishopofSkalholt，wasordainedintheyear1057。

AftertheintroductionofChristianity，alltheIcelandersenjoyedanunostentatiousbutundisturbedpracticeoftheirreligion。

GreenlandandthemostnorthernpartofAmericaaresaidtohavebeendiscoveredbyIcelanders。

InthemiddleofthethirteenthcenturyIcelandcameintothepoweroftheNorwegiankings。Intheyear1380NorwaywasunitedtothecrownofDenmark；andIcelandincorporated，withoutresistance，intheDanishmonarchy。SincethecessionoftheislandtoNorway，andthentoDenmark，peaceandsecuritytooktheplaceoftheinternalcommotionswithwhich，beforethistime，Icelandhadbeenfrequentlydisturbed；butthisstateofquietbroughtforthindolenceandapathy。Thevoyagesofdiscoverywereinterferedwithbythenewgovernment，andthecommercegraduallypassedintothehandsofothernations。Theclimateappearsalsotohavechanged；andthelessenedindustryandwantofperseveranceintheinhabitantshavebroughtagriculturecompletelyintodecline。

Intheyear1402theplaguebrokeoutupontheisland，andcarriedofftwo-thirdsofthepopulation。

Thefirstprinting-presswasestablishedatHoolum，abouttheyear1530，underthesuperintendenceoftheBishop，JohnAreson。

ThereformationintheIcelandicChurchwasnotbroughtaboutwithoutdisturbance。Itwaslegallyestablishedintheyear1551。

DuringthefifteenthcenturytheIcelanderssufferedmorefromthepiraticalincursionsofforeigners。Aslateastheyear1616theFrenchandEnglishnationstookpartintheseenormities。Themostmelancholyoccurrenceofthiskindtookplacein1627，inwhichyearagreatnumberofAlgerinepiratesmadeadescentupontheIcelandiccoast，murderedaboutfiftyoftheinhabitants，andcarriedoffnearly400othersintocaptivity。{26}

Theeighteenthcenturycommencedwithadreadfulmortalityfromthesmallpox；ofwhichdiseasemorethan16，000oftheinhabitantsdied。

In1757afaminesweptawayabout10，000souls。

Theyear1783wasdistinguishedbymostdreadfulvolcanicoutbreaksintheinterioroftheisland。Tremendousstreamsoflavacarriedallbeforethem；greatriverswerecheckedintheircourse，andformedlakes。FormorethanayearathickcloudofsmokeandvolcanicashescoveredthewholeofIceland，andnearlydarkenedthesunlight。Hornedcattle，sheep，andhorsesweredestroyed；faminecame，withitsaccompanyingillnesses；andoncemoreappearedthemalignantsmall-pox。Inafewyearsmorethan11，000personshaddied；morethanone-fourthofthewholepresentpopulationoftheisland。

IcelandliesintheAtlanticocean；itsgreatestbreadthis240

geographicalmiles，anditsextremelengthfromnorthtosouth140

miles。Thenumberofinhabitantsisestimatedat48，000，andthesuperficialextentoftheislandat29，800squaremiles。

CHAPTERIII

Onthemorningofthe16thofMayIlandedintheharbourofHavenfiord，andforthefirsttimetrodtheshoresofIceland。

AlthoughIwasquitebewilderedbysea-sickness，andstillmorebythecontinualrockingoftheship，sothateveryobjectroundmeseemedtodance，andIcouldscarcelymakeafirmstep，stillI

couldnotrestinthehouseofHerrKnudson，whichhehadobliginglyplacedatmydisposal。Imustgooutatonce，toseeandinvestigateeverything。IfoundthatHavenfiordconsistedmerelyofthreewoodenhouses，afewmagazinesbuiltofthesamematerial，andsomepeasants"cottages。

Thewoodenhousesareinhabitedbymerchantsorbytheirfactors，andconsistonlyofaground-floor，withafrontoffourorsixwindows。Twoorthreestepsleaduptotheentrance，whichisinthecentreofthebuilding，andopensuponahallfromwhichdoorsleadintotheroomstotherightandleft。Atthebackofthehouseissituatedthekitchen，whichopensintoseveralbackroomsandintotheyard。Ahouseofthisdescriptionconsistsonlyoffiveorsixroomsontheground-floorandafewsmallatticbedrooms。

TheinternalarrangementsarequiteEuropean。Thefurniture——whichisoftenofmahogany，——themirrors，thecast-ironstoves，everything，inshort，comefromCopenhagen。Beautifulcarpetsliespreadbeforethesofas；neatcurtainsshadethewindows；Englishprintsornamentthewhitewashedwalls；porcelain，plate，cut-glass，&c。，aredisplayedonchestsandontables；andflower-potswithroses，mignonnette，andpinksspreadadeliciousfragrancearound。Ievenfoundagrandpianofortehere。Ifanypersoncouldsuddenly，andwithouthavingmadethejourney，betransportedintooneofthesehouses，hewouldcertainlyfancyhimselfinsomecontinentaltown，ratherthaninthedistantandbarrenislandofIceland。AndasinHavenfiord，soIfoundthehousesofthemoreopulentclassesinReikjavik，andinalltheplacesIvisited。

FromthesehandsomehousesIbetookmyselftothecottagesofthepeasants，whichhaveamoreindigenous，Icelandicappearance。Smallandlow，builtoflava，withtheintersticesfilledwithearth，andthewholecoveredwithlargepiecesofturf，theywouldpresentrathertheappearanceofnaturalmoundsofearththanofhumandwellings，wereitnotthattheprojectingwoodenchimneys，thelow-

browedentrances，andthealmostimperceptiblewindows，causethespectatortoconcludethattheyareinhabited。Adarknarrowpassage，aboutfourfeethigh，leadsononesideintothecommonroom，andontheothertoafewcompartments，someofwhichareusedasstorehousesforprovisions，andtherestaswinterstablesforthecowsandsheep。Attheendofthispassage，whichispurposelybuiltsolow，asanadditionaldefenceagainstthecold，thefireplaceisgenerallysituated。Theroomsofthepoorerclasshaveneitherwoodenwallsnorfloors，andarejustlargeenoughtoadmitoftheinhabitantssleeping，andperhapsturningroundinthem。Thewholeinterioraccommodationiscomprisedinbedsteadswithverylittlecovering，asmalltable，andafewdrawers。Bedsandchestsofdrawersanswerthepurposeofbenchesandchairs。Abovethebedsarefixedrods，fromwhichdependclothes，shoes，stockings，&c。A

smallboard，onwhicharearrangedafewbooks，isgenerallytobeobserved。Stovesareconsideredunnecessary；forasthespaceisveryconfined，andthehousedenselypopulated，theatmosphereisnaturallywarm。

Rodsarealsoplacedroundthefireplace，andonthesethewetclothesandfishesarehungupincompanytodry。Thesmokecompletelyfillstheroom，andslowlyfindsitswaythroughafewbreathing-holesintotheopenair。

Fire-woodthereisnonethroughoutthewholeisland。TherichinhabitantshaveitbroughtfromNorwayorDenmark；thepoorburnturf，towhichtheyfrequentlyaddbonesandotheroffaloffish，whichnaturallyengenderamostdisagreeablesmoke。

Onenteringoneofthesecottages，thevisitorisatalosstodeterminewhichofthetwoisthemoreobnoxious——thesuffocatingsmokeinthepassageorthepoisonedairofthedwelling-room，renderedalmostinsufferablebythecrowdingtogetherofsomanypersons。Icouldalmostventuretoassert，thatthedreadfuleruptioncalledLepra，whichisuniversalthroughoutIceland，owesitsexistencerathertothetotalwantofcleanlinessthantotheclimateofthecountryortothefood。

Throughoutmysubsequentjourneysintotheinterior，Ifoundthecottagesofthepeasantseverywherealikesqualidandfilthy。OfcourseIspeakofthemajority，andnotoftheexceptions；forhereIfoundafewrichpeasants，whosedwellingslookedcleanerandmorehabitable，inproportiontothesuperiorwealthorsenseofdecencyoftheowners。Myideais，thatthetraveller"sestimateofacountryshouldbeformedaccordingtothehabitsandcustomsofthegeneralityofitsinhabitants，andnotaccordingtothedoingsofafewindividuals，asisoftenthecase。Alas，howseldomdidImeetwiththesecreditableexceptions!

TheneighbourhoodofHavenfiordisformedbyamostbeautifulandpicturesquefieldoflava，atfirstrisinginhills，thensinkingintohollows，andatlengthterminatinginagreatplainwhichextendstothebaseoftheneighbouringmountains。Massesofthemostvariedforms，oftenblackandnaked，risetotheheightoftenorfifteenfeet，formingwalls，ruinedpillars，smallgrottoes，andhollowspaces。Overtheselatterlargeslabsoftenextend，andformbridges。Everythingaroundconsistsofsuddenlycooledheaped-upmassesoflava，insomeinstancescoveredtotheirsummitswithgrassandmoss；thiscircumstancegivesthem，asalreadystated，theappearanceofgroupsofstuntedtrees。Horses，sheep，andcowswereclamberingabout，diligentlyseekingouteverygreenplace。Ialsoclamberedaboutdiligently；Icouldnottireofgazingandwonderingatthisterriblybeautifulpictureofdestruction。

AfterafewhoursIhadsocompletelyforgottenthehardshipsofmypassage，andfeltmyselfsomuchstrengthened，thatIbeganmyjourneytoReikjavikatfiveo"clockontheeveningofthesameday。

HerrKnudsonseemedmuchconcernedforme；hewarnedmethattheroadswerebad，andparticularlyemphasisedthedangerousabyssesI

shouldbecompelledtopass。IcomfortedhimwiththeassurancethatIwasagoodhorsewoman，andcouldhardlyhavetoencounterworseroadsthanthosewithwhichIhadhadthehonourtobecomeacquaintedinSyria。Ithereforetookleaveofthekindgentleman，whointendedtostayaweekortendaysinHavenfiord，andmountingasmallhorse，setoutincompanyofafemaleguide。

InmyguideImadetheacquaintanceofaremarkableantiquityofIceland，whoiswellworthythatIshoulddevoteafewwordstoherdescription。Sheisaboveseventyyearsofage，butlooksscarcelyfifty；herheadissurroundedbytressesofrichfairhair。Sheisdressedlikeaman；undertakes，inthecapacityofmessenger，thelongestandmostfatiguingjourneys；rowsaboatasskilfullyasthemostpractisedfisherman；andfulfilsallhermissionsquickerandmoreexactlythanaman，forshedoesnotkeepupsogoodanunderstandingwiththebrandy-bottle。Shemarchedonsosturdilybeforeme，thatIwasobligedtoincitemylittlehorsetogreaterspeedwithmyriding-whip。

Atfirsttheroadlaybetweenmassesoflava，whereitcertainlywasnoteasytoride；thenoverflatsandsmallacclivities，fromwhencewecoulddescrytheimmenseplaininwhicharesituatedHavenfiord，Bassastadt，Reikjavik，andotherplaces。Bassastadt，atownbuiltonapromontoryjuttingoutintothesea，containsoneoftheprincipalschools，achurchbuiltofmasonry，andafewcottages。

ThetownofReikjavikcannotbeseen，asitishiddenbehindahill。

Theotherplacesconsistchieflyofafewcottages，andonlymeettheeyeofthetravellerwhenheapproachesthemnearly。Severalchainsofmountains，toweringoneabovetheother，andsundry"Jokuls，"orglaciers，whichlaystillsparklingintheirwintrygarb，surroundthisinterminableplain，whichisonlyopenatoneend，towardsthesea。Someoftheplainsandhillsshonewithtendergreen，andIfanciedIbeheldbeautifulmeadows。Onanearerinspection，however，theyprovedtobeswampyplaces，andhundredsuponhundredsoflittleacclivities，sometimesresemblingmole-

hills，atotherssmallgraves，andcoveredwithgrassandmoss。

Icouldseeoveranareaofatleastthirtyorfortymiles，andyetcouldnotdescryatreeorashrub，abitofmeadow-landorafriendlyvillage。Everythingseemeddead。Afewcottageslayscatteredhereandthere；atlongintervalsabirdwouldhoverintheair，andstillmoreseldomIheardthekindlygreetingofapassinginhabitant。Heapsoflava，swamps，andturf-bogssurroundedmeonallsides；inallthevastexpansenotaspotwastobeseenthroughwhichaploughcouldbedriven。

Afterridingmorethanfourmiles，Ireachedahill，fromwhichI

couldseeReikjavik，thechiefharbour，and，infact，theonlytownontheisland。ButIwasdeceivedinmyexpectations；theplacebeforemewasamerevillage。

ThedistancefromHavenfiordtoReikjavikisscarcelyninemiles；

butasIwasunwillingtotiremygoodoldguide，Itookthreehourstoaccomplishit。Theroadwas，generallyspeaking，verygood，exceptinginsomeplaces，whereitlayoverheapsoflava。Ofthemuch-dreadeddizzyabyssesIsawnothing；thestartlingtermmusthavebeenusedtodesignatesomeunimportantdeclivities，alongthebrowofwhichIrode，insightofthesea；orperhapsthe"abysses"

wereonthelava-fields，whereIsometimesnoticedsmallchasmsoffifteenorsixteenfeetindepthatthemost。

Shortlyaftereighto"clockintheeveningIwasfortunateenoughtoreachReikjaviksafeandwell。ThroughthekindforethoughtofHerrKnudson，aneatlittleroomhadbeenpreparedformeinoneofhishousesoccupiedbythefamilyoftheworthybakerBernhoft，andtrulyIcouldnothavebeenbetterreceivedanywhere。

DuringmyprotractedstaythewholefamilyoftheBernhoftsshewedmemorekindnessandcordialitythanithasbeenmylotfrequentlytofind。ManyanhourhasHerrBernhoftsacrificedtome，inordertoaccompanymeinmylittleexcursions。Heassistedmemostdiligentlyinmysearchforflowers，insects，andshells，andwasmuchrejoicedwhenhecouldfindmeanewspecimen。Hiskindwifeanddearchildrenrivalledhiminwillingnesstooblige。Icanonlysay，mayHeavenrequitethemathousand-foldfortheirkindnessandfriendship!

IhadevenanopportunityofhearingmynativelanguagespokenbyHerrBernhoft，whowasaHolsteinerbybirth，andhadnotquiteforgottenourdearGermantongue，thoughhehadlivedformanyyearspartlyinDenmark，partlyinIceland。

SobeholdmenowintheonlytowninIceland，{27}theseatoftheso-calledcultivatedclasses，whosecustomsandmodeoflifeIwillnowlaybeforemyhonouredreaders。

Nothingwasmoredisagreeabletomethanacertainairofdignityassumedbytheladieshere；anairwhich，exceptwhenitisnatural，orhasbecomesofromlonghabit，isapttodegenerateintostiffnessandincivility。Onmeetinganacquaintance，theladiesofReikjavikwouldbendtheirheadswithsostatelyandyetsocarelessanairasweshouldscarcelyassumetowardsthehumbleststranger。

Attheconclusionofavisit，theladyofthehouseonlyaccompaniestheguestasfarasthechamber-door。Ifthehusbandbepresent，thiscivilityiscarriedalittlefurther；butwhenthisdoesnothappentobethecase，astrangerwhodoesnotknowexactlythroughwhichdoorhecanmakehisexit，maychancetofeelnotalittleembarrassed。Exceptinginthehouseofthe"Stiftsamtmann"(theprincipalofficialontheisland)，onedoesnotfindafootmanwhocanshewtheway。InHamburghIhadalreadynoticedthebeginningsofthisdignifiedcoldness；itincreasedasIjourneyedfurthernorth，andatlengthreacheditsclimaxinIceland。

Goodlettersofrecommendationoftenfailtorenderthenortherngrandeespolitetowardsstrangers。Asaninstanceofthisfact，I

relatethefollowingtrait:

Amongotherkindlettersofrecommendation，IhadreceivedoneaddressedtoHerrvonH-，the"Stiftsamtmann"ofIceland。OnmyarrivalatCopenhagen，IheardthatHerrvonH-happenedtobethere。Ithereforebetookmyselftohisresidence，andwasshewnintoaroomwhereIfoundtwoyoungladiesandthreechildren。I

deliveredmyletter，andremainedquietlystandingforsometime。

Findingatlengththatnooneinvitedmetobeseated，Isatdownunaskedonthenearestchair，neversupposingforaninstantthattheladyofthehousecouldbepresent，andneglectthecommonestformsofpolitenesswhichshouldbeobservedtowardseverystranger。

AfterIhadwaitedforsometime，HerrvonH-graciouslymadehisappearance，andexpressedhisregretthatheshouldhaveverylittletimetospareforme，asheintendedsettingsailforIcelandwithhisfamilyinashorttime，andintheinterimhadanumberofweightyaffairstosettleatCopenhagen；inconclusion，hegavemethefriendlyadvicetoabandonmyintentionofvisitingIceland，asthefatiguesoftravellinginthatcountrywereverygreat；finding，however，thatIperseveredinmyintention，hepromised，incaseI

setsailforReikjavikearlierthanhimself，togivemealetterofrecommendation。Allthiswasconcludedingreathaste，andwestoodduringtheinterview。Itookmyleave，andatfirstdeterminednottocallagainfortheletter。Onreflection，however，Ichangedmymind，ascribedmyunfriendlyreceptiontoimportantandperhapsdisagreeablebusiness，andcalledagaintwodaysafterwards。Thentheletterwashandedtomebyaservant；thehighpeople，whomI

couldhearconversingintheadjoiningapartment，probablyconsideredittoomuchtroubletodeliverittomepersonally。

OnpayingmyrespectstothisamiablefamilyinReikjavik，IwasnotalittlesurprisedtorecogniseinFrauvonH-oneofthoseladieswhoinCopenhagenhadnothadthecivilitytoaskmetobeseated。

Fiveorsixdaysafterwards，HerrvonH-returnedmycall，andinvitedmetoanexcursiontoVatne。Iacceptedtheinvitationwithmuchpleasure，andmentallyaskedpardonofhimforhavingformedtoohastyanopinion。FrauvonH-，however，didnotfindherwaytomeuntilthefourthweekofmystayinReikjavik；shedidnoteveninvitemetovisitheragain，soofcourseIdidnotgo，andouracquaintanceterminatedthere。Asindutybound，theremainingdignitariesofthislittletowntooktheirtonefromtheirchief。

Myvisitswereunreturned，andIreceivednoinvitations，thoughI

heardmuchduringmystayofpartiesofpleasure，dinners，andeveningparties。HadInotfortunatelybeenabletoemploymyself，Ishouldhavebeenverybadlyoff。NotoneoftheladieshadkindnessanddelicacyenoughtoconsiderthatIwasalonehere，andthatthesocietyofeducatedpeoplemightbenecessaryformycomfort。Iwaslessannoyedatthewantofpolitenessinthegentlemen；forIamnolongeryoung，andthataccountsforeverything。Whenthewomenwerewantinginkindliness，Ihadnorighttoexpectconsiderationfromthegentlemen。

Itriedtodiscoverthereasonofthistreatment，andsoonfoundthatitlayinanationalcharacteristicofthesepeople——theirselfishness。

ItappearsIhadscarcelyarrivedatReikjavikbeforediligentinquiriesweresetonfootastowhetherIwasRICH，andshouldseemuchcompanyatmyhouse，and，infact，whethermuchcouldbegotoutofme。

Tobewellreceivedhereitisnecessaryeithertoberich，orelsetotravelasanaturalist。PersonsofthelatterclassaregenerallysentbytheEuropeancourtstoinvestigatetheremarkableproductionsofthecountry。Theymakelargecollectionsofminerals，birds，&c。；theybringwiththemnumerouspresents，sometimesofconsiderablevalue，whichtheydistributeamongthedignitaries；theyare，moreover，theprojectorsofmanyanentertainment，andevenofmanyalittleball，&c。；theybuyupeverythingtheycanprocurefortheircabinets，andtheyalwaystravelincompany；theyhavemuchbaggagewiththem，andconsequentlyrequiremanyhorses，whichcannotbehiredinIceland，butmustbebought。Onsuchoccasionseveryonehereisadealer:

offersofhorsesandcabinetspourinonallsides。

ThemostwelcomearrivalofallisthatoftheFrenchfrigate，whichvisitsIcelandeveryyear；forsometimestherearedejeunersalafourchetteonboard，sometimeslittleeveningpartiesandballs。

Thereisatleastsomethingtobegotbesidestherichpresents；the"Stiftsamtmann"evenreceives600florinsperannumfromtheFrenchgovernmenttodefraytheexpenseofafewreturnballswhichhegivestothenavalofficers。

Withmethiswasnotthecase:Igavenoparties——Ibroughtnopresents——theyhadnothingtoexpectfromme；andthereforetheyleftmetomyself。{28}

ForthisreasonIaffirmthatheonlycanjudgeofthecharacterofapeoplewhocomesamongthemwithoutclaimtotheirattention，andfromwhomtheyhavenothingtoexpect。Tosuchapersononlydotheyappearintheirtruecolours，becausetheydonotfinditworthwhiletodissembleandwearamaskinhispresence。Inthesecasesthetravelleriscertainlyapttomakepainfuldiscoveries；butwhen，ontheotherhand，hemeetswithgoodpeople，hemaybecertainoftheirsincerity；andsoImustbegmyhonouredreaderstobearwithme，whenImentionthenamesofallthosewhoheartilywelcomedtheundistinguishedforeigner；itistheonlywayinwhichIcanexpressmygratitudetowardsthem。

AsIsaidbefore，Ihadintercoursewithveryfewpeople，sothatampletimeremainedforsolitarywalks，duringwhichIminutelynoticedeverythingaroundme。

ThelittletownofReikjavikconsistsofasinglebroadstreet，withhousesandcottagesscatteredaround。Thenumberofinhabitantsdoesnotamountto500。

Thehousesofthewealthierinhabitantsareofwood-work，andcontainmerelyaground-floor，withtheexceptionofasinglebuildingofonestory，towhichthehighschool，nowheldatBassastadt，willbetransferrednextyear。Thehouseofthe"Stiftsamtmann"isbuiltofstone。Itwasoriginallyintendedforaprison；butascriminalsarerarelytobemetwithinIceland，thebuildingwasmanyyearsagotransformedintotheresidenceoftheroyalofficer。Asecondstonebuilding，discerniblefromReikjavik，issituatedatLangarnes，halfamilefromthetown。Itliesnearthesea，inthemidstofmeadows，andistheresidenceofthebishop。

Thechurchiscapableofholdingonlyatthemostfrom100to150

persons；itisbuiltofstone，withawoodenroof。Inthechambersofthisroofthelibrary，consistingofseveralthousandvolumes，isdeposited。Thechurchcontainsatreasurewhichmanyalargerandcostlieredificemightenvy，——abaptismalfontbyThorwaldsen，whoseparentswereofIcelandicextraction。ThegreatsculptorhimselfwasborninDenmark，andprobablywished，bythispresent，todohonourtothebirth-placeofhisancestors。

TosomeofthehousesinReikjavikpiecesofgardenareattached。

Thesegardensaresmallplotsofgroundwhere，withgreattroubleandexpense，salad，spinach，parsley，potatoes，andafewvarietiesofedibleroots，arecultivated。Thebedsareseparatedfromeachotherbystripsofturfafootbroad，seldomboastingevenafewfield-flowers。

TheinhabitantsofIcelandaregenerallyofmiddlestature，andstronglybuilt，withlighthair，frequentlyincliningtored，andblueeyes。Themenareforthemostpartugly；thewomenarebetterfavoured，andamongthegirlsInoticedsomeverysweetfaces。Toattaintheageofseventyoreightyyearsishereconsideredanextraordinarycircumstance。{29}Thepeasantshavemanychildren，andyetfew；manyareborn，butfewsurvivethefirstyear。Themothersdonotnursethem，andrearthemonverybadfood。Thosewhogetoverthefirstyearlookhealthyenough；buttheyhavestrangelyredcheeks，almostasthoughtheyhadaneruption。

Whetherthisappearanceistobeascribedtothesharpair，towhichthedelicateskinisnotyetaccustomed，ortothefood，Iknownot。

Insomeplacesonthecoast，whentheviolentstormspreventthepoorfishermenforwholeweeksfromlaunchingtheirboats，theylivealmostentirelyondriedfishes"heads。{30}Thefishesthemselveshavebeensalteddownandsold，partlytopaythefishermen"staxes，andpartlytoliquidatedebtsforthenecessariesofthepastseason，amongwhichbrandyandsnuffunfortunatelyplayfartooprominentapart。

Anotherreasonwhythepopulationdoesnotincreaseistobefoundinthenumerouscatastrophesattendingthefisheriesduringthestormyseasonoftheyear。Thefishermenleavetheshorewithsongsandmirth，forabrightskyandacalmseapromisethemgoodfortune。But，alas，tempestsandsnow-stormstoooftenovertaketheunfortunateboatmen!Theseaislashedintofoam，andmightywavesoverwhelmboatsandfishermentogether，andtheyperishinevitably。

Itisseldomthatthefatherofafamilyembarksinthesameboatwithhissons。Theydividethemselvesamongdifferentparties，inorderthat，ifoneboatfounder，thewholefamilymaynotbedestroyed。

IfoundthecottagesofthepeasantsatReikjaviksmaller，andineveryrespectworseprovided，thanthoseatHavenfiord。Thisseems，however，tobeentirelyowingtotheindolenceofthepeasantsthemselves；forstonesaretobehadinabundance，andeverymanishisownbuilder。Thecowsandsheeplivethroughthewinterinawretchedden，builteitherinthecottageitselforinitsimmediateneighbourhood。Thehorsespassthewholeyearunderthecanopyofheaven，andmustfindtheirownprovender。Occasionallyonlythepeasantwillshovelawaythesnowfromalittlespot，toassistthepooranimalsinsearchingforthegrassormossconcealedbeneath。

Itisthenlefttothehorsestofinishclearingawaythesnowwiththeirfeet。Itmayeasilybeimaginedthatthismodeoftreatmenttendstorenderthemveryhardy；butthewonderis，howthepoorcreaturesmanagetoexistthroughthewinteronsuchsparediet，andtobestrongandfitforworklateinthespringandinsummer。

Thesehorsesaresoentirelyunusedtobeingfedwithoats，thattheywillrefusethemwhenoffered；theyarenotevenfondofhay。

AsIarrivedinIcelandduringtheearlyspring，Ihadanopportunityofseeingthehorsesandsheepintheirwintergarments。

Thehorsesseemedtobecovered，notwithhair，butwithathickwoollycoat；theirmanesandtailsareverylong，andofsurprisingthickness。AttheendofMayorthebeginningofJunethetailandmanearedockedandthinned，theirwoollycoatfallsofitself，andtheythenlooksmoothenough。Thesheephavealsoaverythickcoatduringthewinter。Itisnotthecustomtoshearthem，butatthebeginningofJunethewoolispickedoffpiecebypiecewiththehand。Asheeptreatedinthiswaysometimespresentsaverycomicalappearance，beingperfectlynakedononeside，whileontheotheritisstillcoveredwithwool。

Thehorsesandcowsareconsiderablysmallerthanthoseofourcountry。Nooneneedjourneysofarnorth，however，toseestuntedcattle。Already，inGalicia，thecowsandhorsesofthepeasantsarenotawhitlargerorstrongerthanthoseinIceland。TheIcelandiccowsarefurtherremarkableonlyfortheirpeculiarlysmallhorns；thesheeparealsosmallerthanours。

Everypeasantkeepshorses。Themodeoffeedingthemis，asalreadyshewn，verysimple；thedistancesarelong，theroadsbad，andlargerivers，moorlands，andswampsmustfrequentlybepassed；soeveryonerides，bothmen，women，andchildren。TheuseofcarriagesisastotallyunknownthroughouttheislandasinSyria。

TheimmediatevicinityofReikjavikisprettyenough。Someofthetownspeoplegotomuchtroubleandexpenseinsometimescollectingandsometimesbreakingthestonesaroundtheirdwellings。Withthelittlegroundthusobtainedtheymixturf，ashes，andmanure，untilatlengthasoilisformedonwhichsomethingwillgrow。Butthisissuchagiganticundertaking，thatthelittleculturebestowedonthespotswhollyneglectedbynaturecannotbewonderedat。HerrBernhoftshewedmeasmallmeadowwhichhehadleasedforthirtyyears，atanannualrentofthirtykreutzers。Inorder，however，totransformthelandheboughtintoameadow，whichyieldswinterfodderforonlyonecow，itwasnecessarytoexpendmorethan150

florins，besidesmuchpersonallabourandpains。Therateofwagesforpeasantsisveryhighwhencomparedwiththelimitedwantsofthesepeople:theyreceivethirtyorfortykreutzersperdiem，andduringthehay-harvestasmuchasaflorin。

Foralongdistanceroundthetownthegroundconsistsofstones，turf，andswamps。Thelatteraremostlycoveredwithhundredsuponhundredsofgreatandsmallmoundsoffirmground。Byjumpingfromoneofthesemoundstothenext，theentireswampmaybecrossed，notonlywithoutdanger，butdry-footed。

Inspiteofallthis，oneoftheseswampsputmeinapositionofmuchdifficultyandembarrassmentduringoneofmysolitaryexcursions。Iwassaunteringquietlyalong，whensuddenlyalittlebutterflyflutteredpastme。ItwasthefirstIhadseeninthiscountry，andmyeagernesstocatchitwasproportionatelygreat。I

hastenedafterit；thoughtneitherofswampnorofdanger，andintheheatofthechasedidnotobservethatthemoundsbecameeverymomentfewerandfartherbetween。SoonIfoundmyselfinthemiddleoftheswamp，andcouldneitheradvancenorretreat。NotahumanbeingcouldIdescry；theveryanimalswerefarfromme；andthiscircumstanceconfirmedmeastothedangerousnatureoftheground。

Nothingremainedformebuttofixmyeyesupononepointofthelandscape，andtostepoutboldlytowardsit。Iwasoftenobligedtohazardtwoorthreestepsintotheswampitself，inordertogainthenextacclivity，uponwhichIwouldthenstandtriumphantly，todeterminemyfartherprogress。SolongasIcoulddistinguishtracesofhorses"hoofs，Ihadnofear；buteventhesesoondisappeared，andIstoodtherealoneinthemorass。Icouldnotremainforeveronmytowerofobservation，andhadnoresourcebuttotaketotheswamponcemore。ImustconfessthatIexperiencedaveryuncomfortablefeelingofapprehensionwhenmyfootsanksuddenlyintothesoftmud；butwhenIfoundthatitdidnotrisehigherthantheankles，mycouragereturned；Isteppedoutboldly，andwasfortunateenoughtoescapewiththefrightandathoroughwetting。

Themostarduouspostsinthecountryarethoseofthemedicalmenandclergymen。Theirsphereofactionisveryenlarged，particularlythatofthemedicalman，whosepracticesometimesextendsoveradistanceofeightytoahundredmiles。Whenweaddtothistheseverityofthewinter，whichlastsforsevenoreightmonths，itseemsmarvellousthatanyonecanbefoundtofillsuchasituation。