第2章

Letanyonefancyanexcursionamidst900ships，greatandsmall，whichlinedbothshoresoftheElbeintiersofthreedeepormore；

thepassingtoandfroofcountlessboatsbusilyemployedinloadingorunloadingthesevessels；thesethings，togetherwiththeshoutingandsingingofthesailors，therattlingofanchorswhicharebeingweighed，andtherushandswellofpassingsteamers，combinetoconstituteapicturenottobesurpassedinanycityexceptinthatmetropolisoftheworld，London。{12}

Thereasonofthisunusualactivityintheharbourlayintheseverityofthepastwinter。Suchawinterhadnotbeenexperiencedforseventyyears:theElbeandtheBalticlayformonthsinicychains，andnotashipcouldtraversethefrozenriver，notananchorcouldbeweighedorlowered。Itwasonlyashorttimebeforemyarrivalthatthepassagehadoncemorebecomefree。

Intheneighbourhoodoftheharbouraresituatedthegreaternumberoftheso-called"yards。"Ihadreadconcerningthemthat，viewedfromtheexterior，theylooklikecommonhouses；butthattheyconstituteseparatecommunities，andcontainalleysandstreets，servingasthedomicileofinnumerablefamilies。Ivisitedseveraloftheseplaces，andcanassurethereaderthatIsawnothingextraordinaryinthem。Houseswithtwolargewings，forminganalleyoffromeightytoahundredpacesinlength，aretobemetwithineverylargetown；andthatanumberoffamiliesshouldinhabitsuchahouseisnotremarkable，consideringthattheyareallpoor，andthateachonlypossessesasinglesmallapartment。

Thefavouritewalkinthetownisthe"Jungfernstieg"(Maiden"sWalk)，abroadalley，extendingroundaspaciousandbeautifulbasinoftheAlster。Ononesidearesplendidhotels，withwhichHamburghisrichlyprovided；ontheother，anumberofprivateresidencesofequalpretensions。Otherwalksare，the"Wall，"surroundingthetown，andthe"BotanicalGarden，"whichresemblesafinepark。Thenoblestbuilding，distinguishedalikeasregardsluxury，skill，tastefulnessofdesign，andstability，istheBazaar。Itistrulyagiganticundertaking，andthemoretobeadmiredfromthefactthatitisnotbuiltuponshares，butattheexpenseofasingleindividual，HerrCarlSillem；thearchitect"snameisOverdick。Thebuildingitselfisconstructedentirelyofstone，andthewallsofthegreatroomandofthehallareinlaidwithmarble。Aloftycupolaandanimmenseglazeddomecoverboththegreatroomandthehall；theupperstaircasesareornamentedwithbeautifulstatues。

Whenintheeveningitisbrilliantlylightedwithgas，andfurtherornamentedbyatastefuldisplayoftherichestwares，thespectatorcanalmostfancyhimselftransportedtoafairypalace。

AltogethertheshopsinHamburghareveryluxurious。Thewaresliedisplayedinthemosttastefulmannerbehindhugewindowsofplate-

glass，whichareoftenfromfivetosixfeetbroad，andeightortenfeethigh；asinglesheetfrequentlycosts600florins。Thisplate-

glassluxuryisnotconfinedtoshops，butextendstowindowsgenerally，notonlyinHamburgh，butalsoinAltona，andisalsoseeninthehandsomestcountry-housesoftheHamburghers。Manyapanecostseightortenflorins；andtheglassisinsuredincaseofbreakage，likehousesincaseoffire。

Thisdisplayofglassisequalledbythecostlinessofthefurniture，whichisalmostuniversallyofmahogany；awoodwhichishereinsuchcommonuse，thatinsomeofthemosteleganthousestheverystair-banistersareconstructedofit。Eventhepilotshaveoftenmahoganyfurniture。

Thehandsomestandmostfrequentedstreetisthe"NeueWall"(NewWall)。Iwasparticularlystruckwiththenumberofshopsanddwellingsunderground，towhichonedescendsbyaflightofsixoreightstairs；anironrailingisgenerallyplacedbeforetheentrance，topreventthepassers-byfromfallingdown。

Averypracticalinstitutionisthegreatslaughterhouse，inwhichallcattlearekilledoncertaindaysoftheweek。

ConcerningthetownofAltona，IhaveonlytoobservethatitappearedtomeacontinuationofHamburgh；fromwhichtown，indeed，itisonlyseparatedbyawoodendoor。Averybroad，handsomestreet，or，moreproperlyspeaking，anelongatedsquare，plantedwithadoublerowoflargetrees，isthemostremarkablethingaboutAltona，whichbelongstotheDanishGovernment，andisconsidered，afterCopenhagen，themostimportantplaceinthekingdom。

ItisadeliciousridetothevillageofBlankenese，distantninemilesfromHamburgh；theroadliesamongbeautifulcountry-housesandlargepark-likegardens。Blankeneseitselfconsistsofcottages，groupedinapicturesquemannerroundtheSulberg，ahillfromwhichthetravellerenjoysaveryextendedviewoverthegreatplain，inwhichitistheonlyelevatedpoint。ThecourseoftheElbe，asitwindsatmoderatespeedtowardsthesea，isheretobetracedalmosttoitsembouchureatCuxhaven。

ThebreadthoftheElbeatBlankeneseexceedstwomiles。

Anotherinterestingexcursionistothe"NewMills，"alittlevillageontheElbe，notmorethanhalfamilefromAltona，andinhabitedonlybyfishermenandpilots。WhoeverwishestoformanideaofDutchprettinessandcleanlinessshouldcomehere。

Thehousesaremostlyonestoryhigh，neatlyandtastefullybuilt；

thebrightestofbrasshandlesadornthestreet-doors；thewindowsarekeptscrupulouslyclean，andfurnishedwithwhitecurtains。

InSaxonyIhadfoundmanydwellingsofthepeasantrytidyandneatenough，displayingatanyratemoreopulencethanweareaccustomedtofindwiththisclassofpeople；butIhadseennonetocompetewiththisprettyvillage。

Amongthepeasants"costumes，Ionlylikedthatwornbythewomenfromthe"Vierlanden。"Theywearshortfullskirtsofblackstuff，finewhitechemisetteswithlongsleeves，andcolouredbodices，lightlyfastenedinfrontwithsilkcordsorsilverbuckles。Theirstrawhatshaveamostcomicalappearance；thebrimofthehatisturnedupinsuchamannerthatthecrownappearstohavecompletelysunkin。ManyprettyyounggirlsdressedinthismannercometoHamburghtosellflowers，andtakeuptheirpositioninfrontoftheExchange。

The26thofApril，thedayappointedformydeparture，arrivedonlytoospeedily。Topartistheunavoidablefateofthetraveller；butsometimeswepartgladly，sometimeswithregret。IneednotwritemanypagestodescribemyfeelingsatthepartinginHamburgh。I

wasleavingbehindmemylastrelations，mylastfriends。NowIwasgoingintothewideworld，andamongstrangers。

Ateighto"clockinthemorningIleftAltona，andproceededbyrailwaytoKiel。

Inoticedwithpleasurethatonthisrailwayeventhethird-classcarriagesweresecurelycoveredin，andfurnishedwithglasswindows。Infact，theyonlydifferedfromthoseofthefirstandsecondclassinbeingpaintedadifferentcolour，andhavingtheseatsuncushioned。

Thewholedistanceofseventymileswaspassedinthreehours；arapidjourney，butagreeablemerelybyitsrapidity，forthewholeneighbourhoodpresentsonlywidely-extendedplains，turf-bogsandmoorlands，sandyplacesandheaths，interspersedwithalittlemeadoworarableland。Fromthenatureofthesoil，thewaterintheditchesandfieldslookedblackasink。

NearBinneburgwenoticeafewstuntedplantationsoftrees。FromEisholmabranch-lineleadstoGluckstadt，andanotherfromNeumunster，alargeplacewithimportantcloth-factories，toRendsburg。

Fromherethereisnothingtobeseenbutaconvent，inwhichmanyDukesofHolsteinlieburied，andseveralunimportantlakes；forinstance，thoseofBernsholm，Einfeld，andSchulhof。ThelittleriverEiderwouldhavepassedunnoticedbyme，hadnotsomeofmyfellow-passengersmadeagreatfeatureofit。InthefinestcountriesIhavefoundthenativesfarlessenthusiasticaboutwhatwasreallygrandandbeautiful，thantheywerehereinpraiseofwhatwasneithertheonenortheother。Myneighbour，averyagreeablelady，wasuntiringinlaudationofherbeautifulnativeland。Inhereyesthecrippledwoodwasasplendidpark，thewastemoorlandaninexhaustiblefieldforcontemplation，andeverytrifleamatterofrealimportance。InmyheartIwishedherjoyofherfervidimagination；butunfortunatelymycoldernaturewouldnotcatchtheinfection。

TowardsKieltheplainbecomesaregionoflowhills。KielitselfisprettilysituatedontheBaltic，which，viewedfromthence，hastheappearanceofalakeofmiddlingsize。Theharbourissaidtobegood；buttherewerenotmanyshipsthere。{13}AmongthesewasthesteamerdestinedtocarrymetoCopenhagen。LittledidI

anticipatethegoodreasonIshouldhavetorememberthisvessel。

ThankstotheaffectionateforethoughtofmycousinSchmidt，Ifoundoneofhisrelations，HerrBrauer，waitingformeattherailway。I

wasimmediatelyintroducedtohisfamily，andpassedthefewhoursofmystayveryagreeablyintheircompany。

Eveningapproached，andwithitthehourofembarkation。MykindfriendstheBrauersaccompaniedmetothesteamer，andItookagratefulleaveofthem。

IsoondiscoveredthesteamerChristianVIII。，of180-horsepower，tobeavesseldirtierandmoreuncomfortablethananywithwhichI

hadbecomeacquaintedinmymaritimeexcursions。Scrubbingandsweepingseemedthingsunknownhere。Theapproachtothecabinwasbyaflightofstairssosteep，thatgreatcarewasrequisitetoavoiddescendinginanexpeditiousbutdisagreeablemanner，byafallfromtoptobottom。Inthefore-cabintherewasnoattemptatseparatequartersforladiesandgentlemen。Inshort，thearrangementsseemedalltohavebeenmadewithaviewofimpressingtheshipvividlyontherecollectionofeverytraveller。

Atnineo"clockweleftKiel。Thedayandthetwilightareherealreadylongerthaninthelandslyingtothesouthandthewest。

Therewaslightenoughtoenablemetosee，loomingoutofthesurroundingdarkness，thefortress"Friedrichsort，"whichwepassedataboutteno"clock。

April27th。

To-dayIstillrosewiththesun；butthatwillsoonbeadifficultmattertoaccomplish；forinthenorththegoddessoflightmakesamendsinspringandsummerforhershortcomingsduringthewinter。

Iwentondeck，andlookedonthebroadexpanseofocean。Nolandwastobeseen；butsoonacoastappeared，thendisappeared，andthenanewandmoredistantoneroseoutofthesea。TowardsnoonwereachedtheislandofMoen，whichliesaboutforty{14}milesdistantfromCopenhagen。Itformsabeautifulgroupofrocks，risingboldlyfromthesea。Theyarewhiteaschalk，andhaveasmoothandshiningappearance。Thehighestofthesewallsofrocktowers400feetabovethelevelofthesurroundingocean。SoonwesawthecoastofSweden，thentheislandofMalmo；andatlastCopenhagenitself，wherewelandedatfouro"clockintheafternoon。

ThedistancefromKieltoCopenhagenis136sea-miles。

IremainedsevendaysatCopenhagen，andshouldhavehadampletimetoseeeverything，hadtheweatherbeenmorefavourable。Butitblewandrainedsoviolently，thatIwasobligedtogiveupallthoughtsofvisitingthesurroundingparks，andwasfaintocontentmyselfwithseeingafewofthenearestwalks，whichIaccomplishedwithsomedifficulty。

ThefirststreetinCopenhagenwhichItraversedoncomingfromtheharbourgenerallyproducesagreatimpression。Itiscalledthe"BroadStreet，"andleadsfromtheharbourthroughthegreaterpartofthetown。Inadditiontoitsbreadthitisverylongandregular，andthesplendidpalacesandhousesoneithersidegiveitaremarkablygrandappearance。

Itisapeculiarsight，when，inthemidstofthisfinequarter，wecomesuddenlyuponaruin，agiantbuildingrestingonhugepillars，buthalfcompleted，andpartlycoveredwithmossandlichens。Itwasintendedforasplendidchurch，andisbuiltentirelyofmarble；

butthesoftgroundwouldnotbeartheimmenseweight。Thehalf-

finishedbuildingbegantosink，andthecompletionoftheundertakingbecameforeverimpossible。

Manyotherstreetsrivalthe"BroadStreet"insizeandmagnificence。ForemostamongthemcomestheAmalienstrasse。Themostbustling，butbyfarnotthefinest，aretheOsterandGotherstrasse。Towalkintheseisatfirstquiteadifficultundertakingforastranger。Ononesideofthepavement，whichisraisedaboutafootabovethecarriage-way，hecomescontinuallyincontactwithstairs，leadingsometimestowarehousesabove，atotherstosubterraneanwarehousesbelowthelevelofthestreet。

TheapproachestothelatterarenotguardedbyrailingsasinHamburgh。Theothersideofthepavementisboundedbyalittleunostentatiousrivulet，calledbyunpoeticalpeople"canal，"intowhichtributariesequallysweetpourfromalltheneighbouringhouses。Itisthereforenecessarytotakegreatcare，lestyoushouldfallintothetraitorousdepthsontheoneside，orstumbleovertheprojectingstepsontheother。Thepavementitselfiscoveredwitharowofstoneslabs，afootandahalfwide，onwhichonewalkscomfortablyenough。Buttheneverybodycontendsforthepossessionofthese，toavoidtheunevenandpointedstonesattheside。This，addedtothedreadfulcrowding，rendersthestreetonewhichwouldscarcelybechosenforawalk，thelesssoastheshopsdonotcontainanythinghandsome，thehousesareneitherpalace-

likenoreventastefullybuilt，andthestreetitselfisneitherofthebroadestnorofthecleanest。

Thesquaresarealllargeandregularlybuilt。ThefinestistheKongensnytorf(King"sNewMarket)。Somefinemansions，thechiefguard-house，thetheatre，thechiefcoffee-housesandinns，theacademyofthefinearts，andthebuildingbelongingtothebotanicalgarden，thetwolastcommonlyknownbythenameof"Charlottenburg，"areamongtheornamentsofthismagnificentsquare，inthemidstofwhichstandsabeautifulmonument，representingChristianV。onhorseback，andsurroundedbyseveralfigures。

Smaller，butmorebeautifulinitsperfectsymmetry，isthe"Amalienplatz，"containingfourroyalpalaces，builtexactlyalike，andintersectedbyfourbroadstreetsintheformofacross。Thissquarealsoisdecoratedbyamonumentstandinginthemidst，andrepresentingFrederickV。Inanotherfinesquare，the"Nytorf"(NewMarket)，thereisafountain。Itslittlestatuesendsforthverymeagrejetsofwater，andthefountainismerelynoticeableasbeingtheonlyoneIcouldfindatCopenhagen。

Thetravellercanhardlyfailofbeingsurprisedbythenumberandmagnificenceofthepalaces，atsightofwhichhecouldfancyhimselfinthemetropolisofoneofthelargestkingdoms。The"Christianensburg"istrulyimperial；itwascompletelydestroyedbyfireintheyear1794，buthassincebeenrebuiltwithincreasedsplendour。Thechapelofthispalaceisveryremarkable。Theinteriorhastheappearanceratherofaconcert-roomthanofabuildingdevotedtopurposesofworship。Tastefullydecoratedboxes，amongwhichwenoticethatoftheking，togetherwithgalleries，occupytheupperpartofthechapel；thelowerisfilledwithbenchescoveredwithredvelvetandsilk。Thepulpitandaltararesoentirelywithoutdecoration，that，onfirstentering，theywhollyescapenotice。

Inthe"Christianensburg"isalsothe"NorthernMuseum，"peculiarlyrichinspecimensoftheornaments，weapons，musicalinstruments，andothermementoesofnorthernnations。

TheWinterRiding-school，inwhichconcertsarefrequentlygiven，islargeandsymmetrical。Iadmiredthestalls，andyetmorethegreyhorseswhichoccupiedthem——descendantsofthepureArabianandwildNorwegianbreeds——creatureswithlongmanesandtailsoffinesilkyhair。Everyonewhoseesthesehorses，whetherhebeaconnoisseuroroneoftheuninitiated，mustadmirethem。

Adjoiningthe"Christianensburg"isThorwaldsen"sMuseum，asquarebuildingwithfinesaloons，lightedfromabove。WhenIsawit，itwasnotcompleted；thewallswerebeingpaintedinfrescobysomeofthefirstnativeartists。Thesculpturedtreasureswerethere，butunfortunatelyyetunpacked。

InthemidstofthecourtyardThorwaldsen"smausoleumisbeingerected。Therehisasheswillrest，withhisexquisitelyfinishedlionasagravestoneabovethem。{15}

Thelargestamongthechurchesisthe"Woman"sChurch。"Thebuildinghasnoarchitecturalbeauty；thepillars，galleries，andcupolaareallofwood，coveredwithamixtureofsandandplaster。

Butwhatevermaybewantinginoutwardsplendouriscompensatedbyitscontents，forthischurchcontainsthemasterpiecesofThorwaldsen。AtthehighaltarstandshisgloriousfigureofourSaviour，inthenichesofthewallhiscolossaltwelveapostles。

Inthecontemplationoftheseworksweforgettheplainnessofthebuildingwhichcontainsthem。Maythefatesbeprosperous，andnoconflagrationreachthischurch，builtasitishalfofwood!

TheCatholicChurchissmall，buttastefulbeyondexpression。ThelateemperorofAustriapresentedtoitagoodfull-tonedorgan，andtwooil-paintings，onebyKuppelweiser，theotherbyapupilofthismaster。

Inthe"MuseumofArts"Iwasmostinterestedintheancientchair，usedindaysofyorebyTychodeBrahe。{16}

TheExchangeisacuriousancientbuilding。Itisverylongandnarrow，andsurmountedbyninepeaks，fromthecentreofwhichprotrudesaremarkablepointedtower，formedoffourcrocodiles"

tailsintertwined。

Thehallitselfissmall，low，anddark；itcontainsafull-lengthportraitinoilofTychodeBrahe。Nearlyalltheupperpartofthebuildingisconvertedintoakindofbazaar，andthelowerportioncontainsanumberofsmallanddingybooths。

Severalcanals，havinganoutletintothesea，giveapeculiarcharmtothetown。Theyare，infact，somanymarkets；forthecraftlyinginthemareladenwithprovisionsofallkinds，whicharehereofferedforsale。

TheSailors"Town，adjoiningCopenhagen，andsituatedneartheharbour，issingularlyneatandpretty。Itconsistsofthreelong，broad，straightstreets，builtofhouseslookingsoexactlyalike，thatonafoggynightanaccurateknowledgeofthelocalityisrequisitetoknowonefromtheother。Itlooksasthough，oneachsideoftheway，therewereonlyonelonghouseofasinglefloor，withabuildingonestoryhighinthemiddle。Inthelatterdwellthecommandantandoverseers。

ThelightingofthestreetsismanagedinCopenhageninthesamewayasinoursmallerGermantowns。When"moonlight"isannouncedinthecalendar，notalampislighted。Iftheladymoonchoosestohidebehinddarkclouds，thatisherfault。Itwouldbeinsolenttoattempttosupplytheplaceofherradiancewithmiserablelamps——awisearrangement!(?)

Ofthenearwalks，thegardenofthe"Rosenburg，"withinthetown，pleasedmemuch；asdidalsothe"LongLine，"analleyofbeautifultreesextendingparallelwiththesea，andinwhichonecaneitherwalkorride。Acoffee-house，infrontofwhichthereismusicinfineweather，attractsmanyoftheloungers。Themostbeautifulplaceofallisthe"Kastell，"abovethe"LongLine，"fromwhenceonecanenjoyabeautifulview。Thetownliesdisplayedbelowinallitsmagnificence:theharbour，withitsmanyships；thesparklingblueSound，whichspreadsitsbroadexpansebetweenthecoastsofDenmarkandSweden，andwashesmanyabeautifulgroupofislandsbelongingtooneortheotherofthesecountries。Thebackgroundofthepicturealoneisuninteresting，asthereisnochainofmountainstoformahorizon，andtheeyewandersovertheboundlessflatsofDenmark。

AmongthevesselslyingatanchorintheharbourIsawbutfewthree-masters，andstillfewersteamers。Theshipsofthefleetpresentedacuriousappearance；atthefirstviewtheylooklikegreathouseswithflag-staves，foreveryshipisprovidedwitharoof，outofwhichthemastsriseintotheair；theyarebesidesveryhighoutofthewater，sothatalltheport-holesandthewindowsofthecabinsappearintwoorthreestories，oneabovetheother。

Asomewhatmoredistantexcursion，whichcanbeveryconvenientlymadeinacapitalomnibus，takesyoutotheroyalchateau"Friedrichsberg，"lyingbeforethewater-gate，twomilesdistantfromthetown。Splendidavenuesleadtothisplace，wherearetobefoundallthedelightsthatcancombinetodrawacitizenintothecountry。Thereareativoli，arailway，cabinets，andboothswithwax-figures，andcountlessothersights，besidescoffee-houses，beer-rooms，andmusic。Thegardensareplantedatthesideswithanumberofsmallarbours，eachcontainingatableand。chairs，andallopeninfront，soastoshewatoneviewallthevisitorsoftheseprettynaturalhuts。OnSundays，whenthegardensarecrowded，thisisaveryanimatedsight。

Onthewaytothis"Prater"ofCopenhagen，wepassmanyhandsomevillas，eachstandinginafinegarden。

Theroyalpalaceissituatedonthesummitofahill，attheendoftheavenue，andissurroundedbyabeautifulpark；itcommandsaviewofagreatportionofthetown，withthesurroundingcountryandthesea；stillIfarprefertheprospectfromthe"Kastell。"

TheParkcontainsaconsiderableisland，which，duringsomepartoftheyear，standsinthemidstofanextensivelake。ThisislandisappropriatedtotheCourt，buttherestoftheparkisopentothepublic。

Immediatelyoutsidethewater-gatestandsanobelisk，remarkableneitherforitsbeautynorfortheskilldisplayedinitserection，foritconsistsofvariousstones，andisnothigh，butinterestingfromthecircumstancetowhichitowesitsorigin。ItwaserectedbyhisgratefulsubjectsinmemoryofthelatekingChristianVII。，tocommemoratetheabolitionoffeudalservice。Surelynofeelingpersoncancontemplatewithoutjoyfulemotionamonumentlikethis。

IhaveheregivenafaithfulaccountofwhatIsawduringmyshortstayatCopenhagen。Itonlyremainsformetodescribeafewpeculiarcustomsofthepeople，andsoIwillbeginasitwereattheend，withtheburialofthedead。InDenmark，asinfactinthewholeofScandinavia，notexceptingIceland，itiscustomarynottoburythedeaduntileightortendayshaveelapsed。Inwinter-timethisisnotofsomuchconsequence，butinsummeritisfarfromhealthyforthoseunderthesameroofwiththecorpse。IwaspresentatCopenhagenatthefuneralofDr。Brandis，physiciantotheking。Twooftheking"scarriagesandanumberofprivateequipagesattended。Nearlyallthesewereempty，andtheservantswalkedbesidethem。AmongthemournersIdidnotnoticeasinglewoman；Isupposedthatthiswasonlythecaseatthefuneralsofgentlemen，butoninquiryIfoundthatthesameruleisobservedattheburialofwomen。Thisconsiderationfortheweakersexiscarriedsofar，thatonthedayofthefuneralnowomanmaybeseeninthehouseofmourning。Themournersassembleinthehouseofthedeceased，andpartakeofcoldrefreshments。Attheconclusionoftheceremonytheyareagainregaled。WhatparticularlypleasedmeinCopenhagenwas，thatIneveronanyoccasionsawbeggars，orevensuchmiserablycladpeopleasarefoundonlytoofrequentlyinourgreatcities。Heretherearenodoubtpoorpeople，astherearesucheverywhereelseintheworld，butonedoesnotseethembeg。

Icannothelpmentioninganarrangementwhichcertainlydeservestobeuniversallycarriedout；——Imean，thesettingapartofmanylargehouses，partlybelongingtotheroyalfamily，partlytorichprivatepeopleortocompanies，forthereceptionofpoorpeople，whoareherelodgedatamuchcheaperratethanispossibleinordinarydwellings。

Thecostumesofthepeasantsdidnotparticularlypleaseme。Thewomenweardressesofgreenorblackwoollenstuff，reachingtotheankle，andtrimmedattheskirtwithbroadcolouredwoollenborders。

Theseamsofthespenser，andthearm-holes，arealsotrimmedwithsmallercolouredborders。Ontheirheadstheywearahandkerchief，andoverthisakindofshade，likeabonnet。OnSundaysIsawmanyoftheminsmall，prettycaps，workedwithsilk，withaborderoflaceofmorethanahand"sbreadth，plaitedverystiffly；atthebacktheyhavelargebowsoffineriband，theendsofwhichreachhalfdowntotheirfeet。Ifoundnothingveryremarkableinthedressofthepeasants。Asfarasstrengthandbeautywereconcerned，IthoughtthesepeasantswereneithermorenorlessgiftedthanthoseofAustria。Asregardsthebeautyofthefairsex，IshouldcertainlygivethepreferencetotheAustrians。Fairhairandblueeyespredominate。

Isawbutfewsoldiers；theiruniforms，particularlythosewornbytheking"slife-guards，areveryhandsome。

Iespeciallynoticedthedrummers；theywerealllittleladsoftenortwelveyearsold。Onecouldalmosthaveexclaimed，"Drum，whitherartthoucarryingthatboy?"Tomarch，andtojoininfatiguingmanoeuvres，carryingsuchadrum，andbeatingitbravelyatthesametime，israthercruelworkforsuchyounglads。Manyaruinedconstitutionmaybeascribedtothiscustom。

DuringmystayinCopenhagenIspentmanyverydelightfulhourswithProfessorMariboeandhisamiablefamily，andwiththekindclergymanoftheembassy，HerrZimmermann。Theyreceivedmewithtruepolitenessandhospitality，anddrewmeintotheircircle，whereIsoonfeltmyselfquiteatease。Ishallneverforgettheirfriendship，andshallmakeuseofeveryopportunitytoshewthemmyappreciationofit。HerrEdouardGottschalkandHerrKnudsonhavealsomybestthanks。IappliedtothefirstofthesegentlementoprocuremeapassagetoIceland，andhewaskindenoughtousehisinterestwithHerrKnudsononmybehalf。

HerrKnudsonisoneofthefirstgeneraldealersinCopenhagen，andcarriesonalargerandmoreextendedcommercewithIcelandthananyotherhousetradingthither。Heisalreadybeginningtoretire，asthecontinualjourneysarebecomingirksometohim；buthestillownsanumberofgreatandsmallvessels，whicharepartlyemployedinthefisheries，andpartlyinbringingallkindsofarticlesofconsumptionandluxurytothedifferentharboursofIceland。

Hehimselfgoesinoneofhisshipseveryyear，andstaysafewmonthsinIcelandtosettlehisaffairsthere。OntherecommendationofHerrGottschalk，HerrKnudsonwaskindenoughtogivemeapassageintheshipinwhichhemadethejourneyhimself；

afavourwhichIknewhowtovalue。Itiscertainlynosmallkindnesstotakealadypassengeronsuchajourney。HerrKnudsonknewneithermyfortitudenormyperseverance；hedidnotknowwhetherIshouldbeabletoendurethehardshipsofajourneytothenorth，whetherIwouldbearsea-sicknessphilosophically，orevenifIhadcourageenough，incaseofstormsorbadweather，toabstainfromannoyingthecaptainbymyfearsorcomplaintsatatimewhenhewouldonlyhavetoomuchtoharasshim。Thekindmanallowednosuchconsiderationstoinfluencehim。HebelievedmewhenI

promisedtobehavecourageouslycomewhatmight，andtookmewithhim。IndeedhiskindnesswentsofarthatitistohimIoweeverycomfortIenjoyedinIceland，andeveryassistanceinfurtheringtheattainmentofmyjourney"sobject。Icouldcertainlynothavecommencedavoyageunderbetterauspices。

AllshipsvisitingIcelandleaveCopenhagenattheendofApril，oratthelatestinthemiddleofMay。Afterthistimeonlyoneshipisdespatched，tocarrythemailsoftheDanishgovernment。ThisvesselleavesCopenhageninOctober，remainsinIcelandduringthewintermonths，andreturnsinMarch。ThegainorlossofthisexpeditionisdistributedinsharesamongthemerchantsofCopenhagen。

Besidesthis，aFrenchfrigatecomestoIcelandeveryspring，andcruisesamongthedifferentharboursuntilthemiddleofAugust。

Shesuperintendsthefishingvessels，which，attractedbythelargeprofitsofthefisheries，visittheseseasingreatnumbersduringthesummer。{17}

OpportunitiesofreturningfromIcelandoccurduringthesummeruntiltheendofSeptember，bymeansofthemerchant-ships，whichcarryfreightsfromtheislandtoDenmark，England，andSpain。

Atlength，onSundaythe4thofMay，afavourablewindsprungup。

HerrKnudsonsentmewordtobereadytoembarkatnoononboardthefinebrigJohn。

Iimmediatelyproceededonboard。Theanchorwasweighed，andthesails，unfoldingthemselveslikegiantwings，waftedusgentlyoutoftheharbourofCopenhagen。Nopartingfromchildren，relations，orold-cherishedfriendsembitteredthishour。WithagladheartI

badeadieutothecity，inthejoyfulhopesoontoseethefulfilmentofmylong-expectedjourney。

Thebrightskysmiledaboveus，andamostfavourablewindfilledoursails。Isatondeckandrevelledinthecontemplationofscenessonewtome。Behinduslayspreadthemajestictown；beforeustheSound，animmensenaturalbasin，whichIcouldalmostcomparetoagreatSwisslake；ontherightandleftwerethecoastsofSwedenandDenmark，whichhereapproacheachothersocloselythattheyseemtoopposeabarriertothefurtherprogressoftheadventurousvoyager。

SoonwepassedthelittleSwedishtownofCarlscrona，andthedesolateislandHveen，onwhichTychodeBrahepassedthegreaterportionofhislife，occupiedwithstellarobservationsandcalculations。Nowcameasomewhatdangerouspart，andonewhichcalledintoactionallthecarefulseamanshipofthecaptaintobringussafelythroughtheconfinedseaandthestrongcurrent，——

theentranceoftheSoundintotheCattegat。

Thetwocoastshereapproachtowithinamileofeachother。OntheSwedishsideliestheprettylittletownofHelsingborg，ontheDanishsidethatofHelsingor，andattheextremityofaprojectingneckoflandthefortressKronburg，whichdemandsatollofeverypassingship，andshewsalargerowofthreateningcannonincaseofnon-compliance。OurtollhadalreadybeenpaidbeforeleavingCopenhagen；wehadbeenaccuratelysignalled，andsailedfearlesslyby。{18}

Theentranceoncepassed，weenteredtheCattegat，whichalreadylookedmorelikethegreatocean:thecoastsretiredoneachside，andmostoftheshiftsandbarques，whichtillnowhadhoveredaroundusonallsides，badeus"farewell。"Somebenttheircoursetowardstheeast，otherstowardsthewest；andwealone，onthebroaddesertocean，setsailfortheicynorth。Twilightdidnotsetinuntil9o"clockatnight；andonthecoaststheflamingbeaconsflashedup，towarnthebenightedmarineroftheproximityofdangerousrocks。

InowofferedupmythanksgivingtoHeavenfortheprotectionhithertovouchsafedme，withahumbleprayerforitscontinuance。

ThenIdescendedtothecabin，whereIfoundaconvenientbunk(akindofcribfixedtothesideoftheship)；Ilaidmyselfdown，andwassooninadeepandrefreshingsleep。

Iawokefullofhealthandspirits，which，however，Ienjoyedbutforashorttime。Duringthenightwehadleftbehindusthe"Cattegat"andthe"Skagerrack，"andweredrivingthroughthestormyGermanOcean。Ahighwind，whichincreasedalmosttoagale，tumbledourpoorshipaboutinsuchamanner，thatnonebutagooddancercouldhopetomaintainanuprightposition。IhadunfortunatelybeenfrommyyouthnovotaryofTerpsichore，andwhatwasItodo?Thenaiadsofthisstormyregionseizedme，andbandiedmetoandfro，untiltheythrewmeintothearmsofwhatwas，accordingtomyexperience，ifnotexactlyafterSchiller"sinterpretation，"thehorribleofhorrors，"——sea-sickness。AtfirstItooklittleheedofthis，thinkingthatsea-sicknesswouldsoonbeovercomebyatravellerlikemyself，whoshouldbeinuredtoeverything。ButinvaindidIbearup；Ibecameworseandworse，tillI

wasatlengthobligedtoremaininmyberthwithbutoneconsolingthought，namely，thatwewereto-dayontheopensea，wheretherewasnothingworthyofnotice。ButthefollowingdaytheNorwegiancoastwasinsight，andatallhazardsImustseeit；soIcrawledondeckmoredeadthanalive，lookedatarowofmountainsofmoderateelevation，theirtopsatthisearlyseasonstillsparklingwiththeirsnowycovering，andthenhurriedback，benumbedbythepiercingicywind，tomygoodwarmfeather-bed。Thosewhohaveneverexperienceditcanhavenoconceptionofthebiting，penetratingcoldnessofagaleofwindinthenorthernseas。Thesunshonehighintheheavens；thethermometer(IalwayscalculateaccordingtoReaumur)stood3degreesabovezero；IwasdressedmuchmorewarmlythanIshouldhavethoughtnecessarywhen，inmyfatherland，thethermometerwas8degreesor10degreesBELOWzero，andyetIfeltchilledtotheheart，andcouldhavefanciedthatI

hadnoclothesonatall。

OnthefourthnightwesailedsafelypasttheShetlandIslands；andontheeveningofthefifthdaywepassedsonearthemajesticrockygroupoftheFeroeIslands，thatwewereatonetimeapprehensiveofbeingcastupontherocksbytheunceasinggale。{19}

AlreadyontheseventhdaywedescriedthecoastofIceland。Ourpassagehadbeenunprecedentedlyquick；thesailorsdeclaredthatafavourablegalewastobepreferredeventosteam，andthatonourpresentvoyageweshouldcertainlyhavelefteverysteamerinourwake。ButI，wretchedbeingthatIwas，wouldgladlyhavedispensedwiththeservicesbothofgaleandsteamforthesakeofafewhours"rest。Myillnessincreasedsomuch，thatontheseventhdayIthoughtImustsuccumb。Mylimbswerebathedinacoldperspiration；Iwasasweakasaninfant，andmymouthfeltparchedanddry。IsawthatImustnoweithermakeagreateffortorgiveupentirely；soIrousedmyself，andwiththeassistanceofthecabin-boygainedaseat，andpromisedtotakeanyandeveryremedywhichshouldberecommended。Theygavemehot-watergruelwithwineandsugar；butitwasnotenoughtobeobligedtoforcethisdown，I

wasfurthercompelledtoswallowsmallpiecesofrawbaconhighlypeppered，andevenamouthfulofrum。Ineednotsaywhatstrongdeterminationwasrequiredtomakemesubmittosucharegimen。I

had，however，butonechoice，eithertoconquermyrepugnanceorgivemyselfupavictimtosea-sickness；sowithallpatienceandresignationIreceivedtheprofferedgifts，andfound，afteratrialofmanyhours，thatIcouldmanagetoretainasmalldose。Thisphysickingwascontinuedfortwolong，longdays，andthenIbeganslowlytorecover。

Ihaveherecircumstantiallydescribedbothmyillnessanditscure，becausesomanypeopleareunfortunatelyvictimstothecomplaint，andwhenunderitsinfluencecannotsummonresolutiontotakesustenance。IshouldadviseallmyfriendsnottoholdoutsolongasIdid，buttotakefoodatonce，andcontinuetodosountilthesystemwillreceiveit。

AsIwasnowconvalescent，Itriedtorecruitmyweariedmindbyadiligentstudyofthemodeoflifeandcustomsofthemarinersofthenorthernseas。

Ourship"scompanyconsistedofHerrKnudson，HerrBruge(amerchantwhomweweretolandattheWestmannIslands)，thecaptain，themate，andsixorsevensailors。Ourmodeoflifeinthecabinwasasfollows:inthemorning，atseveno"clock，wetookcoffee，butwhencethiscoffeecame，heavenknows!Idrankitforelevendays，andcouldneverdiscoveranythingwhichmightserveasaclueinmyattempttodiscoverthecountryofitsgrowth。Atteno"clockwehadamealconsistingofbreadandbutterandcheese，withcoldbeeforpork，allexcellentdishesforthoseinhealth；thesecondcourseofthismorningmealwas"tea-water。"InScandinavia，bytheway，theyneversay，"IdrinkTEA，"theword"water"isalwaysadded:"I

drinkTEA-WATER。"Our"tea-water"was，ifpossible，worsethanitspredecessor，theincomparablecoffee。ThusIwasbeatenatallpoints；theeatablesweretoostrongforme，thedrinkablestoo——

too——Icanfindnoappropriateepithet——probablytooartificial。I

consoledmyselfwiththeprospectofdinner；but，alas，toosoonthissweetvisionfadedintothinair!OnthesixthdayImademyfirstappearanceatthecoveredtable，andcouldnothelpatonceremarkingtheclothwhichhadbeenspreadoverit。Atthecommencementofourjourneyitmightperhapshavebeenwhite；nowitwasmostcertainlynolongerofthatsnowyhue。Thecontinualpitchingandrollingoftheshiphadcausedeachdishtosetitspeculiarstampuponthecloth。Asortofwoodennetworkwasnowlaiduponit，intheintersticesofwhichtheplatesandglasseswereset，andthussecuredfromfalling。Butbeforeplacingitonthetable，ourworthycabin-boytookeachplateandglassseparately，andpolisheditonatowelwhichhungnear，andincolourcertainlyratherresemblingthedingyfloorofthecabinthanthebight-huedrainbow。Thiscouldstillhavebeenendured，butthearticleinquestionreallydiddutyASATOWELinthemorning，beforeextendingitssalutaryinfluenceoverplatesandglassesfortheremainderoftheday。

Onmakingdiscoveriessuchasthese，Iwouldmerelyturnawaymyeyes，andtrytothinkthatperhapsMYGLASSandMYPLATEwouldbemoredelicatelymanipulated，orprobablyescapealtogether；andthenIwouldturnmywholeattentiontotheexpecteddishes。

Firstcamesoup；butinsteadofgravy-soup，itwaswater-soup，withriceanddriedplums。This，whenmingledwithredwineandsugar，formedamostexquisitedishforDanishappetites，butitcertainlydidnotsuitmine。Thesecondandconcludingcourseconsistedofalargepieceofbeef，withwhichIhadnofaulttofind，exceptthatitwastooheavyforoneinmyweakstateofhealth。Atsupperwehadthesamedishesasatdinner，andeachmealwasfollowedby"tea-water。"AtfirstIcouldnotfancythisbilloffareatall；

butwithinafewdaysaftermyconvalesence，Ihadaccustomedmyselftoit，andcouldbearthesea-dietverywell。{20}

Astherichownerofthevesselwasonboard，therewasnolackofthebestwines，andfeweveningspassedonwhichabowlofpunchwasnotemptied。Therewas，however，areasonfoundwhyeverybottleofwineorbowlofpunchshouldbedrunk:forinstance，atourembarkation，todrinkthehealthofthefriendswewereleaving，andtohopeforaquickandprosperousvoyage；then，whenthewindwasfavourable，itshealthwasdrunk，withtherequestthatitwouldremainso；whenitwascontrary，withtherequestthatitwouldchange；whenwesawland，wesaluteditwithaglassofwine，orperhapswithseveral，butIwastooilltocount；whenwelostsightofit，wedrankafarewellglasstoitshealth:sothateverydaybroughtwithitthreeorfourdistinctandseparateoccasionsfordrinkingwine。{21}

Thesailorsdranktea-waterwithoutsugareverymorningandevening，withtheadditionofaglassofbrandy；fordinnertheyhadpease，beans，barley，orpotatoes，withsaltedcod，bacon，"orjunk；"goodsea-biscuittheycouldgetwhenevertheychose。

Thedietisnottheworstpartofthesepoorpeople"shardships。

Theirlifemaybecalledacontinualfightagainsttheelements；foritispreciselyduringthemostdreadfulstorms，withrainandpiercingcold，thattheyhavetobecontinuallyupondeck。Icouldnotsufficientlyadmirethecoolness，orratherthecheerfulnessandalacritywithwhichtheyfulfilledtheironerousduties。Andwhatrewardhavethey?Scantypay，forfoodthedietIhavejustdescribed，andfortheirsleeping-placethesmallestandmostinconvenientpartoftheship，adarkplacefrequentlyinfestedwithvermin，andsmellingoffensivelyfrombeinglikewiseusedasareceptacleforoil-colours，varnish，tar，salt-fish，&c。&c。