第1章

ThesuccesswhichattendedthepublicationinthisSeriesofIllustratedWorksofAWoman"sJourneyroundtheWorld，hasinducedthepublicationofthepresentvolumeonacountrysolittleknownasIceland，andaboutwhichsolittlerecentinformationexists。

Thetranslationhasbeencarefullymade，expresslyforthisSeries，fromtheoriginalworkpublishedatVienna；andtheEditorhasaddedagreatmanynotes，wherevertheyseemednecessarytoelucidatethetext。

Inadditiontothematterwhichappearedintheoriginalwork，thepresentvolumecontainsatranslationofavaluableEssayonIcelandicpoetry，byM。Bergmann；atranslationofanIcelandicpoem，the"Voluspa；"abriefsketchofIcelandicHistory；andatranslationofSchiller"sballad，"TheDiver，"whichisprominentlyalludedtobyMadamePfeifferinherdescriptionoftheGeysers。{1}

TheIllustrationshavebeenprintedintints，soastomaketheworkuniformwiththeJourneyroundtheWorld。

London，August1，1852。

AUTHOR"SPREFACE

"Anotherjourney——ajourney，moreover，inregionswhicheveryonewouldratheravoidthanseek。Thiswomanonlyundertakesthesejourneystoattractattention。"

"Thefirstjourney，forawomanALONE，wascertainlyratheraboldproceeding。Yetinthatinstanceshemightstillhavebeenexcused。

Religiousmotivesmayperhapshaveactuatedher；andwhenthisisthecase，peopleoftengothroughincrediblethings。Atpresent，however，wecanseenojustreasonwhichcouldexcuseanundertakingofthisdescription。"

Thus，andperhapsmoreharshlystill，willthemajorityjudgeme。

Andyettheywilldomeagrievouswrong。Iamsurelysimpleandharmlessenough，andshouldhavefanciedanythingintheworldratherthanthatitwouldeverbemyfatetodrawuponmyselfinanydegreethenoticeofthepublic。Iwillmerelyindicate，asbrieflyasmaybe，mycharacterandcircumstances，andthenIhavenodoubtmyconductwillloseitsappearanceofeccentricity，andseemperfectlynatural。

WhenIwasbutalittlechild，Ihadalreadyastrongdesiretoseetheworld。WheneverImetatravelling-carriage，Iwouldstopinvoluntarily，andgazeafterituntilithaddisappeared；Iusedeventoenvythepostilion，forIthoughthealsomusthaveaccomplishedthewholelongjourney。

AsIgrewtotheageoffromtentotwelveyears，nothinggavemesomuchpleasureastheperusalofvoyagesandtravels。Iceased，indeed，toenvythepostilions，butenviedthemoreeverynavigatorandnaturalist。

Frequentlymyeyeswouldfillwithtearswhen，havingascendedamountain，Isawotherstoweringbeforeme，andcouldnotgainthesummit。

Imadeseveraljourneyswithmyparents，and，aftermymarriage，withmyhusband；andonlysettleddownwhenitbecamenecessarythatmytwoboysshouldvisitparticularschools。Myhusband"saffairsdemandedhisentireattention，partlyinLemberg，partlyinVienna。

Hethereforeconfidedtheeducationandcultureofthetwoboysentirelytomycare；forheknewmyfirmnessandperseveranceinallIundertook，anddoubtednotthatIwouldbebothfatherandmothertohischildren。

Whenmysons"educationhadbeencompleted，andIwaslivinginpeacefulretirement，thedreamsandaspirationsofmyyouthgraduallyawokeoncemore。Ithoughtofstrangemannersandcustoms，ofdistantregions，whereanewskywouldbeaboveme，andnewgroundbeneathmyfeet。IpicturedtomyselfthesupremehappinessoftreadingthelandoncehallowedbythepresenceofourSaviour，andatlengthmadeupmymindtotravelthither。

Asdangersanddifficultiesrosebeforemymind，IendeavouredtoweanmyselffromtheideaIhadformed——butinvain。ForprivationIcaredbutlittle；myhealthwasgoodandmyframehardy:Ididnotfeardeath。Andmoreover，asIwasborninthelastcentury，I

couldtravelALONE。Thuseveryobjectionwasovercome；everythinghadbeendulyweighedandconsidered。IcommencedmyjourneytoPalestinewithafeelingofperfectrapture；andbehold，Ireturnedinsafety。InowfeelpersuadedthatIamneithertemptingProvidence，norjustlyincurringtheimputationofwishingtobetalkedabout，infollowingthebentofmyinclinations，andlookingstillfurtheraboutmeintheworldIchoseIcelandformydestination，becauseIhopedtheretofindNatureinagarbsuchasshewearsnowhereelse。Ifeelsocompletelyhappy，sobroughtintocommunionwithmyMaker，whenIcontemplatesublimenaturalphenomena，thatinmyeyesnodegreeoftoilordifficultyistoogreatapriceatwhichtopurchasesuchperfectenjoyment。

Andshoulddeathovertakemesoonerorlaterduringmywanderings，I

shallawaithisapproachinallresignation，andbedeeplygratefultotheAlmightyforthehoursofholybeautyinwhichIhavelivedandgazeduponHiswonders。

Andnow，dearreader，Iwouldbegtheenottobeangrywithmeforspeakingsomuchofmyself；itisonlybecausethisloveoftravellingdoesnot，accordingtoestablishednotions，seemproperforoneofmysex，thatIhaveallowedmyfeelingstospeakinmydefence。

Judgeme，therefore，nottooharshly；butrathergrantmetheenjoymentofapleasurewhichhurtsnoone，whileitmakesmehappy。

THEAUTHOR。

VISITTOICELAND

CHAPTERI

Intheyear1845Iundertookanotherjourney；{2}ajourney，moreover，tothefarNorth。Icelandwasoneofthoseregionstowardswhich，fromtheearliestperiodofmyconsciousness，Ihadfeltmyselfimpelled。Inthiscountry，stampedasitisbyNaturewithfeaturessopeculiar，asprobablytohavenocounterpartonthefaceoftheglobe，Ihopedtoseethingswhichshouldfillmewithnewandinexpressibleastonishment。HowdeeplygratefuldoIfeeltoThee，OThouthathastvouchsafedtometobeholdthefulfilmentofthesemycherisheddreams!

Thepartingfromallmydearoneshadthistimefarlessbitterness；

Ihadfoundbyexperience，thatawomanofanenergeticmindcanfindherwaythroughtheworldaswellasaman，andthatgoodpeoplearetobemetwitheverywhere。Tothiswasaddedthereflection，thatthehardshipsofmypresentvoyagewouldbeofshortduration，andthatfiveorsixmonthsmightseemerestoredtomyfamily。

IleftViennaatfiveo"clockonthemorningofthetenthofApril。

AstheDanubehadlatelycausedsomedevastations，onwhichoccasiontherailroadhadnotentirelyescaped，werodeforthefirstfourmiles，asfarasFlorisdorf，inanomnibus——notthemostagreeablemodeoftravelling。Ouromnibusesaresosmallandnarrow，thatonewouldsupposetheywerebuiltfortheexclusiveaccommodationofconsumptivesubjects，andnotforhealthy，andinsomecasesportlyindividuals，whosebulkisfurtherincreasedbyagoodlyassemblageofcloaks，furs，andovercoats。

Atthebarriersanewdifficultyarose。Wedeliveredupourpass-

warrants(passirscheine)inturn，withtheexceptionofoneyoungman，whowasquiteastoundedatthedemand。Hehadprovidednothingbuthispassportandtestimonials，beingtotallyunawarethatapass-warrantismoreindispensablethanalltherest。Invaindidhehastenintothebureautoexpostulatewiththeofficials，——wewereforcedtocontinueourjourneywithouthim。

Wewereinformedthathewasastudent，who，attheconclusionofterm，wasabouttomakeholidayforafewweeksathisparents"

housenearPrague。Alas，pooryouth!hehadstudiedsomuch，andyetknewsolittle。Hehadnotevenanideaoftheoverwhelmingimportanceofthedocumentinquestion。ForthistriflingomissionheforfeitedthefaretoPrague，whichhadbeenpaidinadvance。

Buttoproceedwithmyjourney。

AtFlorisdorfajoyfulsurpriseawaitedme。Imetmybrotherandmyson，whohad，itappears，precededme。WeenteredthetraintoproceedincompanytoStockerau，aplacebetweentwelveandthirteenmilesoff；butwereobligedtoalighthalfway，andwalkashortdistance。TheEmbankmenthadgivenway。Luckilytheweatherwasfavourable，inasmuchaswehadonlyaviolentstormofwind。Haditrained，weshouldhavebeenwettedtotheskin，besidesbeingcompelledtowadeankle-deepinmud。Wewerenextobligedtoremainintheopenair，awaitingthearrivalofthetrainfromStockerau，whichunloadeditsfreight，andreceivedusinexchange。

AtStockerauIoncemoretookleaveofmycompanions，andwassoonsecurelypackedinthepost-carriagefortransmission。

Intravellingthisshortdistance，Ihadthusenteredfourcarriages；athingsufficientlydisagreeabletoanunencumberedperson，butinfinitelymoresotoonewhohasluggagetowatchover。

TheonlyadvantageIcoulddiscoverinallthiswas，thatwehadsavedhalfanhourincomingtheseseventeenmiles。Forthis，insteadof9fl。26kr。fromViennatoPrague，wepaid10fl。10kr。

fromStockerautoPrague，withoutreckoningexpenseofomnibusandrailway。Itwascertainlyadearly-boughthalf-hour。{3}

ThelittletownofZnaim，withitsneighbouringconvent，issituatedonalargeplain，extendingfromViennatoBudwitz，seventeenmilesbeyondZnaim；themonotonyoftheviewisonlybrokenhereandtherebylowhills。

NearSchelletauthescenerybeginstoimprove。Onthelefttheviewisboundedbyarangeofhighhills，witharuinedcastle，suggestiveoftragicaltalesofcenturiesgoneby。Firandpineforestsskirttheroad，andliescatteredinpicturesquegroupsoverhillanddale。

April11th。

Yesterdaytheweatherhadalreadybeguntobeungracioustous。AtZnaimwefoundthevalleysstillpartlycoveredwithsnow，andthefogwasattimessothick，thatwecouldnotseeahundredpacesinadvance；butto-dayitwasincomparablyworse。Themistresolveditselfintoamildrain，which，however，lostsomuchofitsmildnessaswepassedfromstationtostation，thateverythingarounduswassoonunderwater。Butnotonlydidweridethroughwater，wewereobligedtositinitalso。Theroofofourcarriagethreatenedtobecomeaperfectsieve，andtherainpouredsteadilyin。Hadtherebeenroomforsuchaproceeding，weshouldallhaveunfurledourumbrellas。

Onoccasionslikethese，Ialwayssilentlyadmirethepatienceofmyworthycountrymen，whotakeeverythingsogood-humouredly。WereI

aman，Ishouldpursueadifferentplan，andshouldcertainlynotfailtocomplainofsuchcarelessness。Butasawoman，Imustholdmypeace；peoplewouldonlyrailatmysex，andcallitill-

humoured。Besides，Ithankedmyguardian-angelforthesediscomforts，lookinguponthemasapreparationforwhatwastobefallmeinthefarNorth。

Passingseveralsmalltownsandvillages，weatlengthenteredtheBohemianterritory，closebehindIglau。ThefirsttownwhichwesawwasCzaslau，withitslargeopensquare，andafewneathouses；thelatterprovidedwithso-calledarbours(orverandahs)，whichenableonetopassroundthesquaredry-footed，eveninthemostrainyweather。

Journeyingonwards，wenoticedthefinecathedralandtownofKuttenberg，oncefamousforitsgoldandsilvermines。{4}Nextcomesthegreattobacco-manufactoryofSedlitz，nearwhichwefirstseetheElbe，butonlyforashorttime，asitsoontakesanotherdirection。PassingthesmalltownofCollin，wearewhirledclosebythebattle-fieldwhere，intheyear1757，thegreatKingFrederickpaidhisscoretotheAustrians。Anobelisk，erectedafewyearssincetothememoryofGeneralDaun，occupiesasmalleminenceontheright。OntheleftistheplainofKlephorcz，wheretheAustrianarmywasdrawnup。{5}

Ateleveno"clockonthesamenightwereachedPRAGUE。

Asitwasmyintentiontopursuemyjourneyaftertwodays，myfirstwalkonthefollowingmorningwastothepolice-office，toprocureapassportandtheall-importantpass-warrant；mynexttothecustom-

house，totakepossessionofasmallchest，whichIhaddeliveredupfivedaysbeforemydeparture，andwhich，astheexpeditoraffirmed，IshouldfindreadyformeonmyarrivalatPrague。{6}Ah，Mr。

Expeditor!mychestwasnotthere。AfterSaturdaycomesSunday；butonSundaythecustom-houseisclosed。Soherewasadaylost，adayinwhichImighthavegonetoDresden，andevenvisitedtheopera。

OnMondaymorningIoncemorehastenedtotheofficeinanxiousexpectation；theboxwasnotyetthere。Anarrayofloadedwagonshad，however，arrived，andinoneoftheseitmightbe。Ah，howI

longedtoseemydarlinglittlebox，inorderthatImight——NOT

pressittomyheart，butunpackitinpresenceoftheexciseofficer!

ItookmerelyacursoryglanceatPrague，asIhadthoroughlyexaminedeverythingtheresomeyearsbefore。Thebeautiful"Graben"andHorse-marketoncemoreexcitedmyadmiration。ItwaswithapeculiarfeelingthatItrodtheoldbridge，fromwhichSt。

JohnofNepomukwascastintotheMoldauforrefusingtopublishtheconfessionofKingWenceslaus"consort。{7}OntheoppositebankI

mountedtheHradschin，andpaidavisittothecathedral，inwhichalargesarcophagus，surroundedandbornebyangels，andsurmountedbyacanopyofcrimsondamask，isdedicatedtothememoryofthesaint。

Themonumentisofsilver，andtheworthofthemetalaloneisestimatedat80，000florins。Thechurchitselfisnotspacious，butisbuiltinthenobleGothicstyle；thelesseraltars，however，withtheirinnumerablegildedwoodenfigures，lookbycontrastextremelypuny。Inthechapelaremanysarcophagi，onwhichreposebishopsandknightshewninstone，butsomuchdamaged，thatmanyarewithouthandsandfeet，whilesomelackheads。Totheright，attheentranceofthechurch，isthecelebratedchapelofSt。Wenceslaus，withitswallsornamentedwithfrescoes，ofwhichthecoloursanddesignsarenowalmostobliterated。Itisfurtherenrichedwithcostlystones。

NotfarfromthecathedralissituatedthepalaceofCountCzernin，abuildingparticularlyfavouredwithwindows，ofwhichithasoneforeverydayintheyear。Iwasthereinanordinaryyear，andsaw365；howtheymanageinleap-yearIdonotknow。Theviewfromthebelvedereofthispalacewellrepaystheobserver。Ittakesintheoldandnewtown，thenobleriverwithitstwobridges(theancientvenerable-lookingstonestructure，andthegracefulsuspension-

bridge，sixhundredpaceslong)，andthehillsroundabout，clothedwithgardens，amongwhichappearneatcountry-houses。

Thestreetsofthe"Kleinseite"arenotparticularlyattractive，beingmostlytortuous，steep，andnarrow。Theycontain，however，severalremarkablepalaces，amongwhichthatofWallensteinDukeofFriedlandstandspre-eminent。{8}

AftervisitingSt。Nicholas"Church，remarkablefortheheightofitsspireanditsbeautifullyarchedcupola，IbetookmyselftoWimmer"sgardens，andthencetothe"Bastei，"aplaceofpublicresortwiththecitizensofPrague。

Icouldnowobservethedevastationcausedbytherisingofthewatershortlybeforemyarrival。TheMoldauhadoversteppeditsbanksinsoturbulentamanner，astocarryalongwithitseveralsmallhouses，andevenalittlevillagenotfarfromPrague，besidesdamagingallthedwellingsuponitsbanks。Thewaterhadindeedalreadyfallen，butthewallsofthehousesweresoakedthroughandthrough；thedoorshadbeencarriedaway，andfromthebrokenwindowsnofaceslookedoutuponthepassers-by。Thewaterhadrisentwofeetmorethanin1784，inwhichyeartheMoldauhadalsoattainedanunusualheight。

Fromthesametowerofobservation，Ilookeddownuponthegreatopenspaceboughtafewyearsago，andintendedtobeoccupiedbytheterminioftheViennaandDresdenrailroads。Althoughseveralhouseswereonlyjustbeingpulleddown，andthefoundationsofbutfewbuildingswerelaid，Iwasassuredthatwithinsixmonthseverythingwouldbecompleted。

Ihavestilltomentionacircumstancewhichstruckmeduringmymorningperegrinations，namely，thecuriousmethodinwhichmilk，vegetables，andotherprovisionsareherebroughttotown。IcouldhavefanciedmyselftransportedtoLaplandorGreenland，onmeetingeverywherecartstowhichtwo，three，orfourdogswereharnessed。

Onepairofdogswilldragthreehundredweightonlevelground；butwhentheyencounterahill，thedrivermustlendahelpinghand。

Thesedogsare，besides，carefulguardians；andIwouldnotadviseanyonetoapproachacarofthiskind，asitstandsbeforetheinn-

door，whiletheproprietorisquenchinghisthirstwithin，onthemoneyhehasjustearned。

Atfiveo"clockonthemorningofthe15thofAprilIleftPrague，androdeforfourteenmilesinthemail-carriage，asfarasObristwyontheElbe，atwhichplaceIembarkedforDresden，onboardthesteamerBohemia，offifty-horsepower，amiserableoldcraft，apparentlyastrangertobeautyandcomfortfromheryouthup。Thepricechargedforthisshortpassageofeightorninehoursisenormouslydear。Thetravellerswill，however，soonhavetheirrevengeontheextortionateproprietors；arailroadisconstructing，bymeansofwhichthisdistancewillbetraversedinamuchshortertime，andatagreatsavingofexpense。

Butatanyratethejourneybywateristhemoreagreeable；thewayliesthroughverypicturesquescenery，andatlengththrough"SaxonSwitzerland"itself。Thecommencementofthejourneyis，however，farfrompleasing。Ontherightarenakedhills，andontheleftlargeplains，overwhich，lastspring，theswollenstreamrolled，partlycoveringthetreesandtheroofsofthecottages。HereI

couldforthefirsttimeseethewholeextentofthecalamity。Manyhouseshadbeencompletelytorndown，andthecrops，andeventheloosealluvialearthsweptaway；asweglidedbyeachdrearysceneofdevastation，anotheryetmoredismalwouldappearinitsplace。

ThiscontinuedtillwereachedMelnick，wherethetreesbecomehigher，andgroupsofhousespeerforthfromamongtheinnumerablevineyards。OppositethislittletowntheMoldaufallsintotheElbe。Ontheleft，inthefardistance，thetravellercandescrySt。George"sMount，fromwhich，asthestorygoes，CzechtookpossessionofallBohemia。

BelowthelittletownofRaudnitzthehillsgaveplacetomountains，andasmanyenthusiastscanonlyfindthoseregionsromanticwherethemountainsarecrownedwithhalf-ruinedcastlesandstrongholds，goodoldTimehastakencaretoplanttheretwofineruins，HafenbergandSkalt，forthedelectationofsuchsentimentalobservers。

NearLeitmeritz，asmalltownwithahandsomecastle，andachurchandconvent，theEgerflowsintotheElbe，andahigh-archedwoodenbridgeconnectsthetwobanks。Hereourpoorsailorshaddifficultworktolowerthemastandthefunnel。

TheratherprettyvillageofGross-Czernoseckisremarkableforitsgiganticcellars，hewnoutoftherock。Apost-carriagecouldeasilyturnroundinoneofthese。Thevatsareofcourseproportionedtothecellars，particularlythebarrelscalledthe"twelveapostles，"eachofwhichholdsbetweenthreeandfourthousandgallons。Itwouldbenomorethanfairtostophereawhile，togiveeveryheroofthebottleanopportunitytoenjoyasightofthesepalace-cellars，andtoofferalibationtothetwelveapostles；butthesteamerpassedon，andwewereobligedtomakethemostofthedescriptionsfurnishedbythosewhoweremoreathomeintheseparts，andhadnodoubtfrequentlyemergedinaninspiredstatefromthedepthsofthecellarsinquestion。

Theviewnowbecomesmoreandmorecharming:themountainsappeartodrawclosertogether，andshutinthebedofthestream；romanticgroupsofrocks，withsummitscrownedbyrainsyetmoreromantic，towerbetween。Theancientbutwell-preservedcastleofSchreckenstein，builtonarockrisingboldlyoutoftheElbe，isparticularlystriking；theapproachestoitarebyserpentinewalkshewnoutoftherock。

NearthesmalltownofAussigwefindthemostconsiderablecoal-

minesinBohemia。IntheirneighbourhoodissituatedthelittlemountainestatePaschkal，whichproducesakindofwinesaidtoresemblechampagne。

Themountainsnowbecomehigherandhigher，butabovethemalltowersthegiganticJungfernsprung(Maiden"sLeap)。ThebeautyofthisregionisonlysurpassedbythesituationofthetownandcastleofTetschen。Thecastlestandsonarock，betweentwentyandthirtyfeethigh，whichseemstoriseoutoftheElbe；itissurroundedbyhot-housesandcharminggardens，shelvingdownwardsasfarasthetown，whichliesinabloomingvalley，nearalittleharbour。Thevalleyitself，encompassedbyachainofloftymountains，seemsquiteshutoutfromtherestoftheworld。

Theleftbankoftheriverisheresocrowdedwithmassesandwallsofrock，thatthereisonlyroomatintervalsforanisolatedfarmorhut。Suddenlythetopsofmastsappearbetweenthehighrocks，aphenomenonwhichissoonexplained；alargegapinoneoftherockywallsformsabeautifulbasin。

AndnowwecometoSchandau，aplaceconsistingonlyofafewhouses；itisafrontiertownoftheSaxondominions。Custom-houseofficers，araceofbeingseverassociatedwithfrontiertowns，hereboardedourvessel，andrummagedeverything。Mydaguerreotypeapparatus，whichIhadlockedupinasmallbox，waslookeduponwithaneyeofsuspicion；butuponmyassertionthatitwasexclusivelyintendedformyownuse，Iandmyapparatusweregraciouslydismissed。

Inouronwardjourneywefrequentlyobservedrocksofpeculiarshapes，whichhaveappropriatenames，suchasthe"Zirkelstein，"

"Lilienstein，"&c。TheKonigsteinisacollectionofjaggedmassesofrock，onwhichisbuiltthefortressofthesamename，usedatpresentasaprisonforgreatcriminals。AtthefootoftherocksliesthelittletownofKonigstein。Notfaroff，ontherightbank，ahugerock，restingonothers，bearsastrikingresemblancetoahumanhead。Themoredistantgroupsofrocksarecalledthoseof"Rathen，"butareconsideredasbelongingtoSaxonSwitzerland。The"Basteien"(Bastions)ofthisSwitzerland，closebywhichwenowpass，aremostwonderfulsuperpositionsofloftyandfantasticallyshapedrocks。Unfortunately，thesteamerwhirledussorapidlyonourway，thatwhilstwecontemplatedonebank，thebeauteousscenesontheoppositesidehadalreadyglidedfromourview。InmuchtooshortatimewehadpassedthetownofPirna，situateatthecommencementofthisrangeofmountains。Theveryancientgateofthistowntowersfarabovealltheotherbuildings。

LastlyweseethegreatcastleSonnenstein，builtonarock，andnowusedasanasylumforlunatics。

Allthebeautifulandpicturesqueportionofourpassageisnowpast，andtheroyalvillaofPillnitz，withitsmanyChinesegables，looksinsignificantenough，afterthegrandscenesofnature。A

chainofhills，coveredwiththecountry-housesofcitizens，adjoinsit；andontherightextendsalargeplain，atthefarendofwhichwecandimlydescrytheSaxonmetropolis。Butwhatisthatinthedistance?Wehavehardlytimetoarrangeourluggage，whentheanchorisletgonearthefineoldDresdenBridge。

Thisbridgehadnotescapedunscathedbythefuriousriver。Oneofthecentrearcheshadgivenway，andthecrossandwatchboxwhichsurmounteditwereprecipitatedintotheflood。Atfirst，carriagesstillpassedoverthebridge；itwasnotuntilsometimeafterwardsthatthefullextentofthedamagewasascertained，andthepassageofcarriagesoverthebridgediscontinuedformanymonths。

AsIhadseenthetownofDresdenseveralyearsbefore，andtheonlybuildingnewtomewasthesplendidtheatre，Itookadvantageofthefeweveninghoursofmystaytovisitthisstructure。

StandinginthemidstofthebeautifulCathedral-square，itsnoblerotunda-likeformatoncerivetstheattention。Theinnertheatreissurroundedbyasuperbbroadandloftycorridor，withfinebow-

windowsandstraightbroadstaircases，leadingindifferentdirectionstowardsthegalleries。Theinteriorofthetheatreisnotsospaciousas，judgingfromtheexterior，onewouldimagineittobe，butthearchitectureanddecorationsaretrulygorgeousandstriking。Theboxesareallopen，beingseparatedfromeachothermerelybyalowpartition；thewallsandchairsarecoveredwithheavysilkendraperies，andtheseatsofthethirdandfourthgallerieswithamixtureofsilkandcotton。Onesinglecircumstancewasdisagreeabletomeinanacousticpointofview——I

couldheartheslightestwhisperoftheprompterasdistinctlyasthoughsomeonehadbeenbehindmereadingtheplay。Thecurtainhadscarcelyfallenbeforethewholehousewasempty，andyettherewasnocrowdingtogetout。Thisfirstdrewmyattentiontothenumerousandexcellentlycontriveddoors。

April16th。

TheDresdenomnibusesmaybecitedasmodelsofcomfort；oneiscertainofplentyofroom，andthereisnooccasiontodreadeitherthecorpulentpersonsorthefursandcloaksoffellow-passengers。

Abell-pullisfixedintheinteriorofthecarriage，sothateachindividualcangivethecoachmanasignalwhenheorshewishestoalight。Theseomnibusescallattheprincipalinns，andwaitforamoment；butthetravellerwhoisnotreadyinadvanceisleftbehind。

Athalf-pastfiveinthemorningitcalledatourhotel。Iwasreadyandwaiting，anddroveoffcomfortablytotherailway。ThedistancefromDresdentoLeipzigisreckonedatfifty-sixmiles，andthejourneyoccupiedthreehours。

Thefirstfourteenmilesareveryagreeable；gardens，fields，andmeadows，pine-forestsintheplainandonthehills，andbetweenthese，villages，farms，country-houses，andsolitarychapels，combinetoformaveryprettylandscape。Butthescenesoonchanges，andthetownofMeissen(famousforitsporcelainmanufactory)，ontherighthand，seemstoshutoutfromourviewallthatispicturesqueandbeautiful。

FromheretoLeipzigwetravelthroughawearisomemonotonousplain，enlivenedatlongintervalsbyvillagesandscatteredfarms。Thereisnothingtoseebutagreattunnel，andtheriverPleisse——thelatter，orrathertheElster，isrenderedfamousbythedeathofPrincePoniatowski。{9}

ThetownofLeipzig，celebratedfarandwideforitsfairs，andmoreforitsimmensepublishingtrade，presentsanappearanceofnoiseandbustleproportionatetoitscommercialimportance。Ifoundstreets，squares，andinnsalikecrowded。{10}

Perhapstheredoesnotexistatownwithitshouses，andconsequentlyitsstreets，sodisfiguredwithannouncements，inallsizesandshapes，coveringitswalls，andsometimesprojectingseveralfeet，asLeipzig。

Amongthepublicbuildings，thosewhichpleasedmemostweretheAugusteumandtheBurgerschule。TheBucherhalle(book-hall)I

shouldsupposeindebtedforitscelebrityrathertoitsliterarycontentsthantoitsarchitecturalbeautyoritsexterior。Thehallitselfisindeedlarge，andoccupiesthewholelengthofthebuilding，whilethelowerstoryconsistsofseveralrooms。Thehall，thechambers，andtheexteriorareallplain，andwithoutparticulardecoration。TheTuchhalle(cloth-hall)issimplyalargehouse，withspaciouschambers，containingsuppliesofcloth。TheTheatrestandsonaverylargesquare，anddoesnotpresentaverysplendidappearance，whetherviewedfromwithinorfromwithout。

Theplanofhavingstallsinfrontoftheboxesinthesecondandthirdgallerieswasanoveltytome。TheorchestraIcouldonlyhear，butcouldnotdiscoveritswhereabouts；mostprobablyitwaspostedbehindthescenes。Oninquiry，Iwastoldthatthiswasonlydoneonextraordinaryoccasions，whentheseatsintheorchestrawereconvertedintostalls，aswasthecaseonthenightofmyvisit。Theplaygivenwas"theoriginalTartuffe，"apopularpiecebyGutzkow。Itwascapitallyperformed。

IntheLeipzigtheatreIhadasecondopportunityofobserving，thatasregardstheloveofeatingourgoodSaxonsarenotawhitbehindthemuch-censuredViennese。IntheDresdentheatreIhadadmiredacoupleofladieswhosatnextme。Theycameprovidedwithaneatbag，containingaverysufficientsupplyofconfectionery，towhichtheyperseveringlyappliedthemselvesbetweentheacts。ButatLeipzigIfoundadelicate-lookingmotherandherson，aladoffifteenorsixteenyears，regalingthemselveswithmoresolidprovisions——whitebreadandsmallsausages。Icouldnotbelievemyeyes，andhadmadeupmymindthatthesausageswereartificiallyformedoutofsomekindofconfectionery——butalas!mynosecameforwardbuttoosoon，asapotentwitness，tocorroboratewhatIwassounwillingtobelieve!

NeitherdidthesetwoepisodestakeplaceintheloftiestregionsofThalia"stemple，butinthestallsofthesecondtier。

BeautifulalleysareplantedroundLeipzig。ItookawalkintotheRosenthal(ValleyofRoses)，whichalsoconsistsofsplendidavenuesandlawns。Aprettycoffee-house，withaveryhandsomealcove，builtinasemicircularform，invitesthewearytravellertorestandrefreshment，whileabandofagreeablemusicdiffusesmirthandgoodhumouraround。

TherestofthesceneryaroundLeipzigpresentstheappearanceofavastandmonotonousplain。

April17th。

IhadintendedtocontinuemyjourneytoHamburghviaBerlin，buttheweatherwassocoldandstormy，andtherainpoureddownsoheavily，thatIpreferredtheshorterway，andproceededbyrailtoMagdeburg。FlyingthroughthedismalplainpastHalle，Kothen，andothertowns，ofwhichIcouldonlydiscerngroupsofhouses，wehurriedlyrecognisedtheSaaleandtheElbe；andtowards10o"clockinthemorningarrivedatMagdeburg，havingtravelledseventymilesinthreehoursandaquarter。

AsthesteamerforHamburghwasnottostartuntil3o"clock，Ihadampletimetolookatthetown。

Magdeburgisamixedpatternofhousesofancient，mediaeval，andmoderndates。Particularlyremarkableinthisrespectistheprincipalstreet，the"Broadway，"whichrunsthroughthewholeofthetown。Herewecanseehousesdatingtheiroriginfromthemostancienttimes；housesthathavestoodproofagainstsiegesandsackings；housesofallcoloursandforms；somesportingpeakedgables，onwhichstonefiguresmaystillbeseen；otherscoveredfromrooftobasementwitharabesques；andinoneinstanceIcouldevendetecttheremainsoffrescoes。Intheverymidstoftheserelicsofantiquitywouldappearahousebuiltintheneweststyle。

Idonotremembereverhavingseenastreetwhichproducedsoremarkableanimpressiononme。Thefinestbuildingisunquestionablythevenerablecathedral。InItalyIhadalreadyseennumbersofthemostbeautifulchurches；yetIremainedstandinginmuteadmirationbeforethismasterpieceofGothicarchitecture。

ThemonumentwiththetwelveApostlesinthischurchisaworthymemorialofthecelebratedsculptorVischer。Inordertoviewit，itisnecessarytoobtainthespecialpermissionofthecommandant。

Thecathedralsquareislarge，symmetrical，anddecoratedwithtwoalleysoftrees；itisalsousedasadrilling-groundforthesoldiers"minormanoeuvres。Iwasparticularlystruckwiththenumberofmilitarymentobeseenhere。GowhereIwould，Iwassuretomeetsoldiersandofficers，frequentlyinlargecompanies；

intimeofwaritcouldscarcelyhavebeenworse。ThiswasanunmistakeabletokenthatIwasonPrussianterritory。

Theopencanals，whichcomefromallthehouses，andmeanderthroughthestreets，areagreatdisfigurementtothetown。

Half-pastthreeo"clockcameonlytooquickly，andIbetookmyselfonboardthesteamerMagdeburg，ofsixty-horsepower，toproceedtoHamburgh。OfthepassageitselfIcansaynothing，exceptthatajourneyonariverthroughexecrablesceneryisoneofthemostmiserablethingsthatcanwellbeimagined。When，inadditiontothis，theweatherisbad，theshipdirty，andoneisobligedtopassanightonboard，thediscomfortisincreased。Itwasmylottoendureallthis:theweatherwasbad，theshipwasdirty，thedistancemorethan100miles，sothatwehadthepleasantprospectofadelightfulnightonboardtheship。Therewere，moreover，somanypassengers，thatwewereforcedtositcrowdedtogether；sotherewesatwithexemplarypatience，staredateachother，andsighedbitterly。Orderwasentirelyoutofthequestion；noonehadtimetothinkofsuchathing。Smokingandcard-playingwereperseveringlycarriedonalldayandallnight；itcaneasilybeimaginedthatthingsdidnotgosoquietlyasatanEnglishwhist-

party。Theincessantrainrendereditimpossibletoleavethecabinevenforashorttime。TheonlyconsolationIhadwas，thatImadetheacquaintanceoftheamiablecomposerLorzing，acircumstancewhichdelightedmethemore，asIhadalwaysbeenanadmirerofhisbeautifuloriginalmusic。

CHAPTERII

Morningdawnedatlength，andinashorttimeafterwardswereachedthegreatcommercialcity，which，halfdestroyedbythedreadfulconflagrationof1842，hadrisengranderandmoremajesticfromitsashes。{11}Itookupmyquarterswithacousin，whoismarriedtotheWurtemburgconsul，themerchantSchmidt，inwhosehouseIspentamostagreeableandhappyweek。Mycousin-in-lawwaspoliteenoughtoescortmeeverywherehimself，andtoshewmethelionsofHamburgh。

FirstofallwevisitedtheExchangebetweenthehoursofoneandtwo，whenitisatthefullest，andthereforebestcalculatedtoimpressastrangerwithanideaoftheextentandimportanceofthebusinesstransactedthere。Thebuildingcontainsahallofgreatsize，witharcadesandgalleries，besidesmanylargerooms，whicharepartlyusedforconsultations，partlyforthesaleofrefreshments。Themostinterestingthingofallis，however，tositinthegallery，andlookingdownwards，toobservethecontinuallyincreasingcrowdpassingandrepassingeachotherintheimmensehallandthroughthegalleriesandchambers，andtolistentothehubbubandnoiseofthethousandsofeagervoicestalkingatonce。

Athalf-pastoneo"clockthehallisatitsfullest，andthenoisebecomesabsolutelydeafening；fornowtheyaremarkinguptheratesofexchange，bywhichthemerchantsregulatetheirmonetarytransactions。

LeavingtheExchange，webentourstepstowardsthegreatharbour，andenteringasmallboat，cruisedinandaboutitinalldirections。Ihadresolvedtocountonlythethree-mastedships；

butsoongaveitup，fortheirnumberseemedoverwhelming，evenwithoutreckoningthesplendidsteamers，brigs，sloops，andcraft。

Inshort，Icouldonlygazeandwonder，foratleast900shipslaybeforeme。