第7章

Nothingamusedmemore，whenIhadlodgingsofthisdescription，thanthecuriosityofthepeople，whowouldrushineverymorning，assoonasIopenedthedoor。Thefirstthingtheysaidtoeachotherwasalways，"Krarhefurhunsovid"(Wherecanshehaveslept?)。ThegoodpeoplecouldnotconceivehowitwaspossibletospendanightALONEinachurchsurroundedbyachurchyard；theyperhapsconsideredmeanevilspiritorawitch，andwouldtoogladlyhaveascertainedhowsuchacreatureslept。WhenIsawtheirdisappointedfaces，Ihadtoturnawaynottolaughatthem。

June29th。

EarlythenextmorningIcontinuedmyjourney。NotfarfromSkalholtwecametotheriverThiorsa，whichisdeepandrapid。Wecrossedinaboat；butthehorseshadtoswimafterus。Itisoftenverytroublesometomakethehorsesenterthesestreams；theyseeatoncethattheywillhavetoswim。Theguideandboatmencannotleavetheshoretillthehorseshavebeenforcedintothestream；

andeventhentheyhavetothrowstones，tothreatenthemwiththewhip，andtofrightenthembyshoutsandcries，topreventthemfromreturning。

Whenwehadmadenearlytwelvemilesonmarshyroads，wecametothebeautifulwaterfalloftheHuitha。Thisfallisnotsoremarkableforitsheight，whichisscarcelymorethanfifteentotwentyfeet，asforitsbreadth，andforitsquantityofwater。Somebeautifulrocksaresoplacedattheledgeofthefall，thattheydivideitintothreeparts；butitunitesagainimmediatelybeneaththem。Thebedoftheriver，aswellasitsshores，isoflava。

Thecolourofthewaterisalsoaremarkablefeatureinthisriver；

itinclinessomuchtomilkywhite，that，whenthesunshinesonit，itrequiresnoverystrongimaginativepowertotakethewholeformilk。

NearlyamileabovethefallwehadtocrosstheHuitha，oneofthelargestriversinIceland。Thencetheroadliesthroughmeadows，whicharelessmarshythantheformerones，tillitcomestoabroadstreamoflava，whichannouncesthevicinityofthefearfulvolcanoofHecla。

IhadhithertonotpassedoversuchanexpanseofcountryinIcelandasthatfromtheGeysertothisplacewithoutcominguponstreamsoflava。Andthislava-streamseemedtohavefeltsomepityforthebeautifulmeadows，foritfrequentlyseparatedintotwobranches，andthusenclosedtheverdantplain。Butitcouldnotwithstandtheviolenceofthesucceedingmasses；ithadbeencarriedon，andhadspreaddeathanddestructioneverywhere。Theroadtoit，throughplainscoveredwithdarksand，andoversteephillsintervening，wasveryfatiguingandlaborious。

WeproceededtothelittlevillageofStruvellir，wherewestoppedtogiveourhorsesafewhours"rest。Herewefoundalargeassemblyofmenandanimals。{42}IthappenedtobeSunday，andawarmsunnyday，andsoaveryfullservicewasheldintheprettylittlechurch。Whenitwasover，Iwitnessedanamusingruralscene。Thepeoplepouredoutofthechurch，——Icountedninety-six，whichisanextraordinarilynumerousassemblageforIceland，——formedintolittlegroups，chattingandjoking，notforgetting，however，tomoistentheirthroatswithbrandy，ofwhichtheyhadtakencaretobringanamplesupply。Thentheybridledtheirhorsesandpreparedfordeparture；nowthekissespouredinfromallsides，andtherewasnoendofleave-taking，forthepoorpeopledonotknowwhethertheyshallevermeetagain，andwhen。

InallIcelandwelcomeandfarewellisexpressedbyaloudkiss，——apracticenotverydelightfulforanon-Icelander，whenoneconsiderstheirugly，dirtyfaces，thesnuffynosesoftheoldpeople，andthefilthylittlechildren。ButtheIcelandersdonotmindthis。Theyallkissedthepriest，andthepriestkissedthem；andthentheykissedeachother，tillthekissingseemedtohavenoend。Rankisnotconsideredinthisceremony；andIwasnotalittlesurprisedtoseehowmyguide，acommonfarm-labourer，kissedthesixdaughtersofajudge，orthewifeandchildrenofapriest，orajudgeandthepriestthemselves，andhowtheyreturnedthecomplimentwithoutreserve。Everycountryhasitspeculiarcustoms!

Thereligiousceremoniesgenerallybeginaboutnoon，andlasttwoorthreehours。Therebeingnopublicinninwhichtoassemble，andnostableinwhichthehorsescanbefastened，allflocktotheopenspaceinfrontofthechurch，whichthusbecomesaveryanimatedspot。Allhavetoremainintheopenair。

Whentheservicewasover，Ivisitedthepriest，HerrHorfuson；hewaskindenoughtoconductmetotheSalsun，ninemilesdistant，principallytoengageaguidetoHeclaforme。

Iwasdoublyrejoicedtohavethisgoodmanatmyside，aswehadtocrossadangerousstream，whichwasveryrapid，andsodeepthatthewaterrosetothehorses"breasts。Althoughweraisedourfeetashighaspossible，wewereyetthoroughlywet。Thiswadingacrossriversisoneofthemostunpleasantmodesoftravelling。Thehorseswimsmorethanitwalks，andthiscreatesamostdisagreeablesensation；onedoesnotknowwhithertodirectone"seyes；tolookintothestreamwouldexcitegiddiness，andthesightoftheshoreisnotmuchbetter，forthatseemstomoveandtorecede，becausethehorse，bythecurrent，isforcedalittlewaydowntheriver。

Tomygreatcomfortthepriestrodebymysidetoholdme，incaseI

shouldnotbeabletokeepmyseat。Ipassedfortunatelythroughthisprobation；andwhenwereachedtheothershore，HerrHorfusonpointedouttomehowfarthecurrenthadcarriedusdowntheriver。

ThevalleyinwhichSalsunandtheHeclaaresituatedisoneofthosewhicharefoundonlyinIceland。Itcontainsthegreatestcontrasts。Herearecharmingfieldscoveredwitharichgreencarpetofsoftestgrass，andthereagainhillsofblack，shininglava；eventhefertileplainsaretraversedbystreamsoflavaandspotsofsand。MountHeclanotoriouslyhastheblackestlavaandtheblackestsand；anditmaybeimaginedhowthecountrylooksinitsimmediateneighbourhood。OnehillonlytotheleftofHeclaisreddishbrown，andcoveredwithsandandstonesofasimilarcolour。

Thecentreismuchdepressed，andseemstoformalargecrater。

MountHeclaisdirectlyunitedwiththelava-mountainspiledroundit，andseemsfromtheplainonlyasahigherpoint。Itissurroundedbyseveralglaciers，whosedazzlingfieldsofsnowdescendfardown，andwhosebrilliantplainshaveprobablyneverbeentrodbyhumanfeet；severalofitssideswerealsocoveredwithsnow。TotheleftofthevalleynearSalsun，andatthefootofalava-hill，liesalovelylake，onwhoseshoresanumerousflockofsheepweregrazing。Nearitrisesanotherbeautifulhill，sosolitaryandisolated，thatitlooksasifithadbeencastoutbyitsneighboursandbanishedhither。Indeed，thewholelandscapehereissopeculiarlyIcelandic，sostrangeandremarkable，thatitwilleverremainimpressedonmymemory。

SalsunliesatthefootofMountHecla，butisnotseenbeforeonereachesit。

ArrivedatSalsun，ourfirstcarewastoseekaguide，andtobargainforeverythingrequisitefortheascensionofthemountain。

Theguidewastoprocureahorseforme，andtotakemeandmyformerguidetothesummitofHecla。Hedemandedfivethalerandtwomarks(aboutfifteenshillings)，amostexorbitantsum，onwhichhecouldliveforamonth。Butwhatcouldwedo?Heknewverywellthattherewasnootherguidetobehad，andsoIwasforcedtoacquiesce。Whenallwasarranged，mykindcompanionleftme，wishingmesuccessonmyarduousexpedition。

InowlookedoutforaplaceinwhichIcouldspendthenight，andafilthyholefelltomylot。Abench，rathershorterthatmybody，wasputintoit，toserveasmybed；besideithungadecayedfish，whichhadinfectedthewholeroomwithitssmell。Icouldscarcelybreathe；andastherewasnootheroutlet，Iwasobligedtoopenthedoor，andthusreceivethevisitsofthenumerousandamiableinhabitants。Whatastrengtheningandinvigoratingpreparationforthemorrow"sexpedition!

AtthefootofMountHecla，andespeciallyinthisvillage，everythingseemstobeundermined。Nowhere，notevenonMountVesuvius，hadIheardsuchhollow，droningsoundsashere，——theechoesoftheheavyfootstepsofthepeasants。ThesesoundsmadeaveryawfulimpressiononmeasIlayallnightaloneinthatdarkhole。

MyHeclaguide，asIshallcallhimtodistinguishhimfrommyotherguide，advisedmetostartattwoo"clockinthemorning，towhichI

assented，wellknowing，however，thatweshouldnothavemountedourhorsesbeforefiveo"clock。

AsIhadanticipated，soithappened。Athalf-pastfivewewerequitepreparedandreadyfordeparture。Besidesbreadandcheese，abottleofwaterformyself，andoneofbrandyformyguides，wewerealsoprovidedwithlongsticks，tippedwithironpointstosoundthedepthofthesnow，andtoleanupon。

Wewerefavouredbyafinewarmsunnymorning，andgallopedbrisklyoverthefieldsandtheadjoiningplainsofsand。Myguideconsideredthefineweatheraveryluckyomen，andtoldmethatM。

Geimard，thebefore-mentionedFrenchscholar，hadbeencompelledtowaitthreedaysforfineweather。Nineyearshadelapsed，andnoonehadascendedthemountainsincethen。AprinceofDenmark，whotravelledthroughIcelandsomeyearsbefore，hadbeenthere，buthadreturnedwithouteffectinghispurpose。

Ourroadatfirstledusthroughbeautifulfields，andthenoverplainsofblacksandenclosedonallsidesbystreams，hillocks，andmountainsofpiled-uplava。Closerandcloserthesefearfulmassesapproach，andscarcelypermitapassagethroughanarrowcleft；wehadtoclimboverblocksandhillsoflava，whereitisdifficulttofindafirmresting-placeforthefoot。Thelavarolledbesideandbehindus，andwehadtoproceedcarefullynottofallorbehitbytherollinglava。Butmostdangerouswerethechasmsfilledwithsnowoverwhichwehadtopass；thesnowhadbeensoftenedbythewarmthoftheseason，sothatwesankintoitnearlyeverystep，or，whatwasworse，slippedbackmorethanwehadadvanced。Iscarcelythinktherecanbeanothermountainwhoseascentofferssomanydifficulties。

Afteralabourofaboutthreehoursandahalfwenearedthesummitofthemountain，wherewewereobligedtoleaveourhorses。I

should，indeed，havepreferredtodosolongbefore，asIwasapprehensiveofthepooranimalsfallingastheyclimbedovertheseprecipices——onemightalmostcallthemrollingmountains——butmyguidewouldnotpermitit。Sometimeswecametospotswheretheywereuseful，andthenhemaintainedthatImustrideasfaraspossibletoreservemystrengthfortheremainingdifficulties。Andhewasright；IscarcelybelieveIshouldhavebeenabletogothroughitonfoot，forwhenIthoughtwewerenearthetop，hillsoflavaagainrosebetweenus，andweseemedfartherfromourjourney"sendthanbefore。

Myguidetoldmethathehadnevertakenanyonesofaronhorseback，andIcanbelieveit。Walkingwasbadenough——ridingwasfearful。

Ateveryfreshdeclivitynewscenesofdeserted，melancholydistrictswererevealedtous；everythingwascoldanddead，everywheretherewasblackburntlava。Itwasapainfulfeelingtoseesomuch，andbeholdnothingbutastonydesert，animmeasurablechaos。

Therewerestilltwodeclivitiesbeforeus，——thelast，buttheworst。Wehadtoclimbsteepmassesoflava，sharpandpointed，whichcoveredthewholesideofthemountain。IdonotknowhowoftenIfellandcutmyhandsonthejaggedpointsofthelava。Itwasafearfuljourney!

Thedazzlingwhitenessofthesnowcontrastedwiththebrightblacklavabesideithadanalmostblindingeffect。WhencrossingfieldsofsnowIdidnotlookatthelava；forhavingtriedtodosoonceortwice，Icouldnotseemywayafterwards，andhadnearlygrownsnow-blind。

Aftertwohours"morelabourwereachedthesummitofthemountain。

IstoodnowonMountHecla，andeagerlysoughtthecrateronthesnowlesstop，butdidnotfindit。Iwasthemoresurprised，asI

hadreaddetailedaccountsofitinseveraldescriptionsoftravel。

Itraversedthewholesummitofthemountainandclimbedtotheadjoiningjokul，butdidnotperceiveanopening，afissure，adepressedspace，noranysignofacrater。Lowerdowninthesidesofthemountain，butnotintherealcone，Isawsomecleftsandfissuresfromwhichthestreamsoflavaprobablypoured。Theheightofthemountainissaidtobe4300feet。

Duringthelasthourofourascentthesunhadgrowndim。Cloudsofmistblownfromtheneighbouringglaciersenshroudedthehill-tops，andsoonenvelopedussocloselythatwecouldscarcelyseetenpacesbeforeus。Atlasttheydissolved，fortunatelynotinrainbutinsnow，whichprofuselycoveredtheblackunevenlava。Thesnowremainedontheground，andthethermometerstoodatonedegreeofcold。

Inalittlewhiletheclearblueskyoncemorewasvisible，andthesunagainshoneoverus。Iremainedonthetoptillthecloudshadseparatedbeneathus，andaffordedmeabetterdistantviewoverthecountry。

MypenisunfortunatelytoofeebletobringvividlybeforemyreadersthepicturesuchasIbeheldithere，andtodescribetothemthedesolation，theextentandheightoftheselava-masses。I

seemedtostandinacrater，andthewholecountryappearedonlyaburnt-outfire。Herelavawaspiledupinsteepinaccessiblemountains；therestonyrivers，whoselengthandbreadthseemedimmeasurable，filledtheonce-verdantfields。Everythingwasjumbledtogether，andyetthecourseofthelasteruptioncouldbedistinctlytraced。

Istoodthere，inthecentreofhorribleprecipices，caves，streams，valleys，andmountains，andscarcelycomprehendedhowitwaspossibletopenetratesofar，andwasovercomewithterroratthethoughtwhichinvoluntarilyobtrudeditself——thepossibilityofneverfindingmywayagainoutoftheseterriblelabyrinths。

Here，fromthetopofMountHecla，Icouldseefarintotheuninhabitedcountry，thepictureofapetrifiedcreation，deadandmotionless，andyetmagnificent，——apicturewhichonceseencanneveragainfadefromthememory，andwhichaloneamplycompensatesforalltheprevioustroublesanddangers。Awholeworldofglaciers，lava-mountains，snowandice-fields，riversandlakes，intowhichnohumanfoothaseverventuredtopenetrate。Hownaturemusthavelabouredandragedtilltheseformswerecreated!Andisitovernow?Hasthedestroyingelementexhausteditself；ordoesitonlyrest，likethehundred-headedHydra，tobreakforthwithrenewedstrength，anddesolatethoseregionswhich，pushedtothevergeofthesea-shore，encirclethesterileinteriorasamodestwreath?IthankGodthathehaspermittedmetobeholdthischaosinhiscreation；butIthankhimmoreheartilythathehasplacedmetodwellinregionswherethesundoesmorethanmerelygivelight；

whereitinspiresandfertilisesanimalsandplants，andfillsthehumanheartwithjoyandthankfulnesstowardsitsCreator。{43}

TheWestmannIsles，whicharesaidtobevisiblefromthetopofHecla，Icouldnotsee；theywereprobablycoveredbyclouds。

DuringtheascentoftheHeclaIhadfrequentlytouchedlava，——

sometimesinvoluntarily，whenIfell；sometimesvoluntarily，tofindahotoratleastawarmplace。Iwasunfortunateenoughonlytofindcoldones。Thefallingsnowwasthereforemostwelcome，andI

lookedanxiouslyaroundtoseeaplacewherethesubterraneanheatwouldmeltit。IshouldthenhavehastenedthitherandfoundwhatI

sought。Butunfortunatelythesnowremainedunmeltedeverywhere。

Icouldneitherseeanycloudsofsmoke，althoughIgazedsteadilyatthemountainforhours，andcouldfrommypostsurveyitfardownthesides。

Aswedescendedwefoundthesnowmeltingatadepthof500to600

feet；lowerdown，thewholemountainsmoked，whichIthoughtwastheconsequenceofthereturningwarmthofthesun，formythermometernowstoodatninedegreesofheat。Ihavenoticedthesamecircumstanceoftenonunvolcanicmountains。Thespotsfromwhichthesmokerosewerealsocold。

Thesmoothjet-black，bright，anddenselavaisonlyfoundonthemountainitselfandinitsimmediatevicinity。Butalllavaisnotthesame:thereisjagged，glassy，andporouslava；theformerisblack，andsoisthesandwhichcoversonesideofHecla。Thefartherthelavaandsandarefromthemountain，themoretheylosethisblackness，andtheircolourplaysintoiron-colourandevenintolight-grey；butthelighter-colouredlavagenerallyretainsthebrightnessandsmoothnessoftheblacklava。

Afteratroublesomedescent，havingspenttwelvehoursonthisexcursion，wearrivedsafelyatSalsun；andIwasonthepointofreturningtomylodging，somewhatannoyedattheprospectofspendinganothernightinsuchahole，whenmyguidesurprisedmeagreeablybythepropositiontoreturntoStruvelliratonce。Thehorses，hesaid，weresufficientlyrested，andIcouldgetagoodroomthereinthepriest"shouse。Isoonpacked，andinashorttimewewereagainonhorseback。ThesecondtimeIcametothedeepRangaa，Irodeacrossfearlessly，andneedednoprotectionatanyside。Suchisman:dangeronlyalarmshimthefirsttime；whenhehassafelysurmounteditonce，hescarcelythinksofitthesecondtime，andwondershowhecanhavefeltanyfear。

Isawfivelittletreesstandinginafieldnearthestream。Thestemsofthese，which，consideringthescarcityoftreesinIceland，maybecalledremarkablephenomena，werecrookedandknotty，butyetsixorsevenfeethigh，andaboutfourorfiveinchesindiameter。

Asmyguidehadforetold，Ifoundaverycomfortableroomandagoodbedinthepriest"shouse。HerrHorfusonisoneofthebestmenI

haveevermetwith。Heeagerlysoughtopportunitiesforgivingmepleasure，andtohimIoweseveralfinemineralsandanIcelandicbookoftheyear1601。MayGodrewardhiskindnessandbenevolence!

July1st。

WeretracedourstepsasfarastheriverHuitha，overwhichwerowed，andthenturnedinanotherdirection。Ourjourneyledusthroughbeautifulvalleys，manyofthemproducingabundanceofgrass；butunfortunatelysomuchmossgrewamongit，thattheselargeplainswerenotavailableforpastures，andonlyaffordedcomforttotravellersbytheiraspectofcheerfulness。Theywerequitedry。

ThevalleyinwhichHjalmholm，ourresting-placeforthisnight，wassituated，istraversedbyastreamoflava，whichhad，however，beenmodestenoughnottofillupthewholevalley，buttoleaveaspacefortheprettystreamElvas，andforsomefieldsandhillocks，onwhichmanycottagesstood。ItwasoneofthemostpopulousvalleysIhadseeninIceland。

Hjalmholmissituatedonahill。InitlivestheSysselmannoftheRangaardistrict，inalargeandbeautifulhousesuchasIsawnowhereinIcelandexceptinReikjavik。HehadgonetothecapitaloftheislandasmemberoftheAllthing；buthisdaughtersreceivedmeveryhospitablyandkindly。

Wetalkedandchattedmuch；ItriedtodisplaymyknowledgeoftheDanishlanguagebeforethem，andmustoftenhavemadeuseofcuriousphrases，forthegirlscouldnotcontaintheirlaughter。Butthatdidnotabashme；Ilaughedwiththem，appliedtomydictionary，whichIcarriedwithme，andchattedon。Theyseemedtogathernoveryhighideaofthebeautyofmycountrywomenfrommypersonalappearance；forwhichIhumblycravetheforgivenessofmycountrywomen，assuringthemthatnooneregretsthefactmorethanI

do。ButdameNaturealwaystreatspeopleofmyyearsveryharshly，andsetsabadexampletoyouthoftherespectduetoage。Insteadofhonouringusandgivingusthepreference，shepatronisestheyoungfolks，andeverymaidenofsixteencanturnuphernoseatusvenerablematrons。Besidesmynaturaldisqualifications，thesharpairandtheviolentstormstowhichIhadbeensubjectedhaddisfiguredmyfaceverymuch。TheyhadaffectedmemorethantheburningheatoftheEast。Iwasverybrown，mylipswerecracked，andmynose，alas，evenbegantorebelagainstitsuglycolour。Itseemedanxioustopossessanew，dazzlingwhite，tenderskin，andwascastingofftheoldoneinlittlebits。

Theonlycircumstancewhichreinstatedmeinthegoodopinionoftheyounggirlswas，thathavingbrushedmyhairunusuallyfaroutofmyface，awhitespacebecamevisible。Thegirlsallcriedoutsimultaneously，quitesurprisedanddelighted:"Hunerquit"(sheiswhite)。Icouldnotrefrainfromlaughing，andbaredmyarmtoprovetothemthatIdidnotbelongtotheArabrace。

Agreatsurprisewasdestinedmeinthishouse；for，asIwasransackingtheSysselmann"sbook-case，IfoundRotteck"sUniversalHistory，aGermanLexicon，andseveralpoemsandwritingsofGermanpoets。

July2d。

ThewayfromKalmannstungatoThingvallaleadsovernothingbutlava，andtheoneto-daywententirelythroughmarshes。Assoonaswehadcrossedone，anotherwasbeforeus。Lavaseemedtoformthesoilhere，forlittleportionsofthismineralroselikeislandsoutofthemarshes。

Thecountryalreadygrewmoreopen，andwegraduallylostsightoftheglaciers。Thehighmountainsontheleftseemedlikehillsinthedistance，andtheneareroneswerereallyhills。AfterridingaboutninemileswecrossedthelargestreamofElvasinaboat，andthenhadtotreadcarefullyacrossaverylong，narrowbank，overameadowwhichwasquiteunderwater。Ifatravellerhadmetusonthisbank，Idonotknowwhatweshouldhavedone；toturnroundwouldhavebeenasdangerousastosinkintothemorass。

FortunatelyonenevermeetsanytravellersinIceland。

Beyondthedyketheroadrunsforsomemilesalongthemountainsandhills，whichallconsistoflava，andareofaverydark，nearlyblackcolour。Thestonesonthesehillswereveryloose；intheplainbelowmanycolossalpieceswerelying，whichmusthavefallendown；andmanyothersthreatenedtofalleverymoment。Wepassedthedangerousspotsafely，withouthavinghadtowitnesssuchascene。

Ioftenheardahollowsoundamongthesehills；Iatfirsttookitfordistantthunder，andexaminedthehorizontodiscovertheapproachingstorm。ButwhenIsawneithercloudsnorlightning，I

perceivedthatImustseektheoriginofthesoundsnearer，andthattheyproceededfromthefallingportionsofrock。

Thehighermountainstotheleftfadegraduallymoreandmorefromview；buttheriverElvasspreadsinsuchamanner，anddividesintosomanybranches，thatonemightmistakeitforalakewithmanyislands。Itflowsintotheneighbouringsea，whoseexpansebecomesvisibleaftersurmountingafewmoresmallhills。

ThevaleofReikum，whichwenowentered，is，likethatofReikholt，richinhotsprings，whicharecongregatedpartlyintheplain，partlyonorbehindthehills，inacircumferenceofbetweentwoandthreemiles。

WhenwehadreachedthevillageofReikumIsentmyeffectsatoncetothelittlechurch，tookaguide，andproceededtotheboilingsprings。Ifoundverymany，butonlytworemarkableones；these，however，belongtothemostnoteworthyoftheirkind。TheoneiscalledthelittleGeyser，theothertheBogensprung。

ThelittleGeyserhasaninnerbasinofaboutthreefeetdiameter。

Thewaterboilsviolentlyatadepthoffromtwotothreefeet，andremainswithinitsboundstillitbeginstospout，whenitprojectsabeautifulvoluminoussteamoffrom20to30feethigh。

Athalf-pasteightintheeveningIhadthegoodfortunetoseeoneoftheseeruptions，andneedednot，asIhaddoneatthegreatGeyser，tobivouacnearitfordaysandnights。Theeruptionlastedsometime，andwastolerablyequable；onlysometimesthecolumnofwatersankalittle，torisetoitsformerheightwithrenewedforce。Afterfortyminutesitfellquitedownintothebasinagain。

Thestoneswethrewin，itrejectedatonce，orinafewseconds，shiveredintopieces，toaheightofabout12to15feet。Itsbulkmusthavebeen1to1。5feetindiameter。Myguideassuredmethatthisspringgenerallyplaysonlytwice，rarelythrice，intwenty-

fourhours，andnot，asIhaveseenitstated，everysixminutes。I

remainednearittillmidnight，butsawnoothereruption。

ThisspringverymuchresemblestheStrukkernearthegreatGeyser，theonlydifferencebeingthatthewatersinksmuchlowerinthelatter。

Thesecondofthetworemarkablesprings，thearchedspring，issituatednearthelittleGeyser，onthedeclivityofahill。Ihadneverseensuchacuriousformationforthebedofaspringasthisis。Ithasnobasin，butlieshalfopenatyourfeet，inalittlegrotto，whichisseparatedintovariouscavitiesandholes，andwhichishalf-surroundedbyawallofrockbendingoveritslightlyataheightofabout2feet，andthenrises10to12feethigher。

Thisspringneverisatrestmorethanaminute；thenitbeginstoriseandboilquickly，andemitsavoluminouscolumn，which，strikingagainsttheprojectingrock，isflattenedbyit，andrisesthencelikeanarchedfan。Theheightofthispeculiarly-spreadjetofwatermaybeabout12feet，thearchitdescribes15to20feet，anditsbreadth3to8feet。Thetimeoferuptionisoftenlongerthanthatofrepose。Afteraneruptionthewateralwayssinksafewfeetintothecave，andfor15or20secondsadmitsofaglanceintothiswonderfulgrotto。Butitrisesagainimmediately，fillsthegrottoandthebasin，whichisonlyacontinuationofthegrotto，andspringsagain。

Iwatchedthismiraculousplayofnatureformorethananhour，andcouldnottearmyselffromit。Thisspring，whichiscertainlytheonlyoneofitskind，gratifiedmemuchmorethanthelittleGeyser。

ThereisanotherspringcalledtheroaringGeyser；butitisnothingmorethanamisshapenhole，inwhichonehearsthewaterboil，butcannotseeit。Thenoiseis，also，notatallconsiderable。

July3d。

NearReikumwecrossedabrookintowhichallthehotspringsflow，andwhichhasaprettyfall。Wethenascendedtheadjoiningmountain，androdefulltwohoursonthehighplain。Theplainitselfwasmonotonous，asitwasonlycoveredwithlava-stonesandmoss，buttheprospectintothevalleywasvariedandbeautiful。

Valeandseawerespreadbeforeme，andIsawtheWestmannIslands，withtheirbeautifulhills，whichtheenviouscloudshadconcealedfrommeontheHecla，lyinginthedistance。Belowmestoodsomehousesintheport-town，Eierbach，andnearthemthewatersoftheElvasflowintothesea。

Attheendofthismountain-levelavalleywassituated，whichwasalsofilledwithlava，butwiththatjaggedblacklavawhichpresentssuchabeautifulappearance。Immensestreamscrosseditfromallsides，sothatitalmostresembledablacklakeseparatedfromtheseabyachainofequallyblackmountains。

Wedescendedintothissombrevalethroughpilesoflavaandfieldsofsnow，andwentonthroughvalleysandchasms，overfieldsoflava，plainsofmeadow-land，pastdarkmountainsandhills，tillwereachedthechiefstationofmyIcelandicjourney，thetownofReikjavik。

ThewholecountrybetweenReikumandReikjavik，adistanceof45to50miles，is，forthemostpart，uninhabited。Hereandthere，inthefieldsoflava，standlittlepyramidsofthesamesubstance，whichserveaslandmarks；andtherearetwohousesbuiltforsuchpersonsasareobligedtotravelduringthewinter。Butwefoundmuchtrafficontheroad，andoftenovertookcaravansof15to20

horses。BeingthebeginningofAugust，itwasthetimeoftradeandtrafficinIceland。ThenthecountrypeopletraveltoReikjavikfromconsiderabledistances，tochangetheirproduceandmanufactures，partlyformoney，partlyfornecessariesandluxuries。

Atthisperiodthemerchantsandfactorshavenothandsenoughtobarterthegoodsorclosetheaccountswhichthepeasantswishtosettleforthewholeyear。

AtthisseasonanunusualcommotionreignsinReikjavik。Numerousgroupsofmenandhorsesfillthestreets；goodsareloadedandunloaded；friendswhohavenotmetforayearormorewelcomeeachother，otherstakeleave。Ononespotcurioustents{44}areerected，beforewhichchildrenplay；onanotherdrunkenmenstaggeralong，orgalloponhorseback，sothatoneisterrified，andfearseverymomenttoseethemfall。

Thisunusualtrafficunfortunatelyonlylastssixoreightdays。

Thepeasanthastenshometohishay-harvest；themerchantmustquicklyregulatetheproduceandmanufactureshehaspurchased，andloadhisshipswiththem，sothattheymaysailandreachtheirdestinationbeforethestormsoftheautumnalequinox。

Miles。

FromReikjaviktoThingvallais45

FromThingvallatotheGeyser36

FromtheGeysertoSkalholt28

FromSkalholttoSalsun36

FromSalsuntoStruvellir9

FromStruvellirtoHjalmholm28

FromHjalmholmtoReikum32

FromReikumtoReikjavik45

259

CHAPTERVII

DuringmytravelsinIcelandIhadofcoursetheopportunityofbecomingacquaintedwithitsinhabitants，theirmannersandcustoms。

ImustconfessthatIhadformedahigherestimateofthepeasants。

Whenwereadinthehistoryofthatcountrythatthefirstinhabitantshademigratedthitherfromcivilisedstates；thattheyhadbroughtknowledgeandreligionwiththem；whenwehearofthesimplegood-heartedpeople，andtheirpatriarchalmodeoflifeintheaccountsofformertravellers，andwhichweknowthatnearlyeverypeasantinIcelandcanreadandwrite，andthatatleastaBible，butgenerallyotherreligionsbooksalso，arefoundineverycot，——onefeelsinclinedtoconsiderthisnationthebestandmostcivilisedinEurope。Ideemedtheirmoralitysufficientlysecuredbytheabsenceofforeignintercourse，bytheirisolatedposition，andthepovertyofthecountry。Nolargetownthereaffordsopportunityforpomporgaiety，orforthecommissionofsmallerorgreatersins。Rarelydoesaforeignerentertheisland，whoseremoteness，severeclimate，inhospitality，andpoverty，areuninviting。Thegrandeurandpeculiarityofitsnaturalformationalonemakesitinteresting，andthatdoesnotsufficeforthemasses。

IthereforeexpectedtofindIcelandarealArcadiainregardtoitsinhabitants，andrejoicedattheanticipationofseeingsuchanIdyllicliferealised。IfeltsohappywhenIsetfootontheislandthatIcouldhaveembracedhumanity。ButIwassoonundeceived。

Ihaveoftenbeenimpatientatmywantofenthusiasm，whichmustbegreat，asIseeeverythinginamoreprosaicformthanothertravellers。IdonotmaintainthatmyviewisRIGHT，butIatleastpossessthevirtueofdescribingfactsasIseethem，anddonotrepeatthemfromtheaccountsofothers。

Ihavealreadydescribedtheimpolitenessandheartlessnessoftheso-calledhigherclasses，andsoonlostthegoodopinionIhadformedofthem。InowcametotheworkingclassesinthevicinityofReikjavik。ThesayingoftenappliedtotheSwisspeople，"Nomoney，noSwiss，"onemayalsoapplytotheIcelanders。AndofthisfactIcanciteseveralexamples。

ScarcelyhadtheyheardthatI，aforeigner，hadarrived，thantheyfrequentlycametome，andbroughtquitecommonobjects，suchascanbefoundanywhereinIceland，andexpectedmetopaydearlyforthem。AtfirstIpurchasedfromcharity，ortoberidoftheirimportunities，andthrewthethingsawayagain；butIwassoonobligedtogivethisup，asIshouldelsehavebeenbesiegedfrommorningtonight。Theiranxietytogainmoneywithoutlabourannoyedmelessthantheextortionatepriceswithwhichtheytriedtoimposeonastranger。Forabeetle，suchascouldbefoundundereverystone，theyasked5kr。(about2d。)；asmuchforacaterpillar，ofwhichthousandswerelyingonthebeach；andforacommonbird"segg，10to20kr。(4d。to8d。)Ofcourse，whenI

declinedbuying，theyreducedtheirdemand，sometimestolessthanhalftheoriginalsum；butthiswascertainlynotinconsequenceoftheirhonesty。ThebakerinwhosehouseIlodgedalsoexperiencedtheselfishnessofthesepeople。Hehadengagedapoorlabourertotarhishouse，who，whenhehadhalffinishedhistask，heardofotheremployment。Hedidnoteventakethetroubletoaskthebakertoexcusehimforafewdays；hewentaway，anddidnotreturntofinishtheinterruptedworkforawholeweek。Thisconductwasthemoreinexcusableashischildrenreceivedbread，andevenbutter，twiceaweekfromthebaker。

Iwasfortunateenoughtoexperiencesimilartreatment。HerrKnudsonhadengagedaguideforme，withwhomIwastotakemydepartureinafewdays。Butithappenedthatthemagistratewishedalsototakeatrip，andsentformyguide。Thelatterexpectedtobebetterpaidbyhim，andwent；hedidnotcometometodischargehimself，butmerelysentmewordontheeveofmydeparture，thathewasill，andcouldthereforenotgowithme。Icouldenumeratemanymoresuchexamples，whichdonotmuchtendtogiveahighestimateofIcelandicmorality。

Iconsoledmyselfwiththehopeoffindingsimplicityandhonestyinthemoreretireddistricts，andthereforeanticipatedatwofoldpleasurefrommyjourneyintotheinterior。Ifoundmanyvirtues，butunfortunatelysomanyfaults，thatIamnolongerinclinedtoexalttheIcelandicpeasantsasexamples。

Thebestoftheirvirtuesistheirhonesty。Icouldleavemybaggageunguardedanywhereforhours，andnevermissedtheleastarticle，fortheydidnotevenpermittheirchildrentotouchanything。Inthispointtheyaresoconscientious，thatifapeasantcomesfromadistance，andwishestorestinacottage，heneverfailstoknockatthedoor，evenifitisopen。Ifnoonecalls"comein，"hedoesnotenter。Onemightfearlesslysleepwithopendoors。

Crimesareofsuchrareoccurrencehere，thattheprisonofReikjavikwaschangedintoadwelling-houseforthechiefwardenmanyyearssince。Smallcrimesarepunishedsummarily，eitherinReikjavikorattheseatoftheSysselmann。CriminalsofadeeperdyearesenttoCopenhagen，andaresentencedandpunishedthere。

MylandlordatReikjavik，themaster-bakerBernhoft，toldmethatonlyonecrimehadbeencommittedinIcelandduringthethirteenyearsthathehadresidedthere。Thiswasthemurderofanillegitimatechildimmediatelyafteritsbirth。Themostfrequentlyoccurringcrimeiscow-stealing。

IwasmuchsurprisedtofindthatnearlyalltheIcelanderscanreadandwrite。Thelatterqualityonlywassomewhatrarerwiththewomen。Youthsandmenoftenwroteafirm，goodhand。Ialsofoundbooksineverycottage，theBiblealways，andfrequentlypoemsandstories，sometimesevenintheDanishlanguage。

Theyalsocomprehendveryquickly；whenIopenedmymapbeforethem，theysoonunderstooditsuseandapplication。Theirquicknessisdoublysurprising，ifweconsiderthateveryfatherinstructshisownchildren，andsometimestheneighbouringorphans。Thisisofcourseonlydoneinthewinter；butaswinterlastseightmonthsinIceland，itislongenough。

Thereisonlyoneschoolinthewholeisland，whichoriginallywasinBessestadt，buthasbeenremovedtoReikjaviksince1846。Inthisschoolonlyyouthswhocanreadandwritearereceived，andtheyareeithereducatedforpriests，andmaycompletetheirstudieshere，orfordoctors，apothecaries，orjudges，whentheymustcompletetheirstudiesinCopenhagen。

Besidestheology，geometry，geography，history，andseverallanguages，suchasLatin，Danish，and，since1846，GermanandalsoFrench，aretaughtintheschoolofReikjavik。

ThechiefoccupationoftheIcelandicpeasantsconsistsinfishing，whichismostindustriouslypursuedinFebruary，March，andApril。

Thentheinhabitantsoftheinteriorcometothecoastingvillagesandhirethemselvestothedwellersonthebeach，therealfishermen，asassistants，takingaportionofthefishastheirwages。Fishingisattendedtoatothertimesalso，butthenexclusivelybytherealfishermen。InthemonthsofJulyandAugustmanyofthelattergointotheinteriorandassistinthehay-

harvest，forwhichtheyreceivebutter，sheep"swool，andsaltlamb。

OthersascendthemountainsandgathertheIcelandmoss，ofwhichtheymakeadecoction，whichtheydrinkmixedwithmilk，ortheygrindittoflour，andbakeflatcakesofit，whichservetheminplaceofbread。

Theworkofthewomenconsistsinthepreparationofthefishfordrying，smoking，orsalting；intendingthecattle，inknitting，sometimesingatheringmoss。Inwinterbothmenandwomenknitandweave。

AsregardsthehospitalityoftheIcelanders，{45}Idonotthinkonecangivethemsoverymuchcreditforit。ItistruethatpriestsandpeasantsgladlyreceiveanyEuropeantraveller，andtreathimtoeverythingintheirpower；buttheyknowwellthatthetravellerwhocomestotheirislandisneitheranadventurernorabeggar，andwillthereforepaythemwell。Ididnotmeetonepeasantorpriestwhodidnotaccepttheprofferedgiftwithouthesitation。ButImustsayoftheprieststhattheywereeverywhereobligingandreadytoserveme，andsatisfiedwiththesmallestgift；andtheircharges，whenIrequiredhorsesformyexcursions，werealwaysmoderate。Ionlyfoundthepeasantlessinterestedindistrictswhereatravellerscarcelyeverappeared；

butinsuchplacesasweremorevisited，theirchargeswereoftenexorbitant。Forexample，Ihadtopay20to30kr。(8d。to1s。)forbeingferriedoverariver；andthenmyguideandIonlywererowedintheboat，andthehorseshadtoswim。TheguidewhoaccompaniedmeontheHeclaalsooverchargedme；butheknewthatIwasforcedtotakehim，asthereisnochoiceofguides，andonedoesnotgiveuptheascentforthesakeofalittlemoney。

ThisconductshowsthatthecharacteroftheIcelandersdoesnotbelongtothebest；andthattheytakeadvantageoftravellerswithasmuchshrewdnessasthelandlordsandguidesonthecontinent。

AbesettingsinoftheIcelandersistheirdrunkenness。Theirpovertywouldprobablynotbesogreatiftheywerelessdevotedtobrandy，andworkedmoreindustriously。Itisdreadfultoseewhatdeeprootthisvicehastaken。NotonlyonSundays，butalsoonweek-days，ImetpeasantswhoweresointoxicatedthatIwassurprisedhowtheycouldkeepintheirsaddle。Iam，however，happytosaythatIneversawawomaninthisdegradingcondition。

Anotheroftheirpassionsissnuff。Theychewandsnufftobaccowiththesameinfatuationasitissmokedinothercountries。Buttheirmodeoftakingitisverypeculiar。Mostofthepeasants，andevenmanyofthepriests，havenopropersnuff-box，butonlyaboxturnedofbone，shapedlikeapowder-flask。Whentheytakesnuff，theythrowbacktheirhead，insertthepointoftheflaskintheirnose，andshakeadoseoftobaccointoit。Theythen，withthegreatestamiability，offerittotheirneighbour，hetohis，andsoitgoesroundtillitreachestheowneragain。

Ithink，indeed，thattheIcelandersaresecondtononationinuncleanliness；noteventotheGreenlanders，Esquimaux，orLaplanders。IfIweretodescribeaportiononlyofwhatI

experienced，myreaderswouldthinkmeguiltyofgrossexaggeration；

Iprefer，therefore，toleaveittotheirimagination；merelysayingthattheycannotconceiveanythingtoodirtyforIcelanddelicacy。

Besidethisveryestimablequality，theyarealsoinsuperablylazy。

Notfarfromthecoastareimmensemeadows，somarshythatitisdangeroustocrossthem。Thefaultlieslessinthesoilthanthepeople。Iftheywouldonlymakeditches，andthusdrytheground，theywouldhavethemostsplendidgrass。Thatthiswouldgrowabundantlyisprovedbythelittleelevationswhichrisefromabovethemarshes，andwhicharethicklycoveredwithgrass，herbage，andwildclover。Ialsopassedlargedistrictscoveredwithgoodsoil，andsomewherethesoilwasmixedwithsand。

IfrequentlydebatedwithHerrBoge，whohaslivedinIcelandforfortyyears，andiswellversedinfarmingmatters，whetheritwouldnotbepossibletoproduceimportantpasture-groundsandhay-fieldswithindustryandperseverance。Heagreedwithme，andthoughtthatevenpotato-fieldsmightbereclaimed，ifonlythepeoplewerenotsolazy，preferringtosufferhungerandresignallthecomfortsofcleanlinessratherthantowork。Whatnaturevoluntarilygives，theyaresatisfiedwith，anditneveroccurstothemtoforcemorefromher。IfafewGermanpeasantsweretransportedhither，whatadifferentappearancethecountrywouldsoonhave!

ThebestsoilinIcelandisontheNorderland。Thereareafewpotato-groundsthere，andsomelittletrees，which，withoutanycultivation，havereachedaheightofseventoeightfeet。HerrBoge，establishedhereforthirtyyears，hadplantedsomemountain-

ashandbirch-trees，whichhadgrowntoaheightofsixteenfeet。

IntheNorderland，andeverywhereexceptonthecoast，thepeoplelivebybreedingcattle。Manyapeasanttherepossessesfromtwotofourhundredsheep，tentofifteencows，andtentotwelvehorses。

Therearenotmanywhoaresorich，butatalleventstheyarebetteroffthantheinhabitantsofthesea-coast。Thesoilthereisforthemostpartbad，andtheyarethereforenearlyallcompelledtohaverecoursetofishing。

BeforequittingIceland，ImustrelateatraditiontoldmebymanyIcelanders，notonlybypeasants，butalsobypeopleoftheso-

calledhigherclasses，andwhoallimplicitlybelieveit。