第3章

Theconversationturneduponscientificmatters，andM。

Fridrikssonaskedmyunclewhathethoughtofthepubliclibrary。

"Library，sir?"criedmyuncle；"itappearstomeacollectionofuselessoddvolumes，andabeggarlyamountofemptyshelves。"

"What!"criedM。Fridriksson；"why，wehaveeightthousandvolumesofmostrareandvaluableworks-someintheScandinavianlanguage，besidesallthenewpublicationsfromCopenhagen。"

"Eightthousandvolumes，mydearsir-why，wherearethey?"criedmyuncle。

"Scatteredoverthecountry，ProfessorHardwigg。Weareverystudious，mydearsir，thoughwedoliveinIceland。Everyfarmer，everylaborer，everyfishermancanbothreadandwrite-andwethinkthatbooksinsteadofbeinglockedupincupboards，farfromthesightofstudents，shouldbedistributedaswidelyaspossible。Thebooksofourlibraryarethereforepassedfromhandtohandwithoutreturningtothelibraryshelvesperhapsforyears。"

"Thenwhenforeignersvisityou，thereisnothingforthemtosee?"

"Well，"sir，foreignershavetheirownlibraries，andourfirstconsiderationis，thatourhumblerclassesshouldbehighlyeducated。Fortunately，theloveofstudyisinnateintheIcelandicpeople。In1816wefoundedaLiterarySocietyandMechanics"

Institute；manyforeignscholarsofeminencearehonorarymembers；

wepublishbooksdestinedtoeducateourpeople，andthesebookshaverenderedvaluableservicestoourcountry。Allowmetohavethehonor，ProfessorHardwigg，toenrollyouasanhonorarymember?"

Myuncle，whoalreadybelongedtonearlyeveryliteraryandscientificinstitutioninEurope，immediatelyyieldedtotheamiablewishesofgoodM。Fridriksson。

"Andnow，"hesaid，aftermanyexpressionsofgratitudeandgoodwill，"ifyouwilltellmewhatbooksyouexpectedtofind，perhapsImaybeofsomeassistancetoyou。"

Iwatchedmyunclekeenly。Foraminuteortwohehesitated，asifunwillingtospeak；tospeakopenlywas，perhaps，tounveilhisprojects。Nevertheless，aftersomereflection，hemadeuphismind。

"Well，"M。Fridriksson，"hesaidinaneasy，unconcernedkindofway，"Iwasdesirousofascertaining，ifamongothervaluableworks，youhadanyofthelearnedArneSaknussemm。"

"ArneSaknussemm!"criedtheProfessorofReykjavik；"youspeakofoneofthemostdistinguishedscholarsofthesixteenthcentury，ofthegreatnaturalist，thegreatalchemist，thegreattraveler。"

"Exactlyso。"

"OneofthemostdistinguishedmenconnectedwithIcelandicscienceandliterature。"

"Asyousay，sir-"

"Amanillustriousaboveall。"

"Yes，sir，allthisistrue，buthisworks?"

"Wehavenoneofthem。"

"NotinIceland?"

"TherearenoneinIcelandorelsewhere，"answeredtheother，sadly。

"Whyso?"

"BecauseArneSaknussemmwaspersecutedforheresy，andin1573

hisworkswerepubliclyburntatCopenhagen，bythehandsofthecommonhangman。"

"Verygood!capital!"murmuredmyuncle，tothegreatastonishmentoftheworthyIcelander。

"Yousaid，sir-"

"Yes，yes，allisclear，Iseethelinkinthechain；everythingisexplained，andInowunderstandwhyArneSaknussemm，putoutofcourt，forcedtohidehismagnificentdiscoveries，wascompelledtoconcealbeneaththeveilofanincomprehensiblecryptograph，thesecret-"

"Whatsecret?"

"Asecret-which，"stammeredmyuncle。

"Haveyoudiscoveredsomewonderfulmanuscript?"criedM。

Fridriksson。

"No!no，Iwascarriedawaybymyenthusiasm。Ameresupposition。"

"Verygood，sir。But，really，toturntoanothersubject，Ihopeyouwillnotleaveourislandwithoutexaminingintoitsmineralogicalriches。"

"Well，"thefactis，Iamratherlate。Somanylearnedmenhavebeenherebeforeme。"

"Yes，yes，butthereisstillmuchtobedone，"criedM。

Fridriksson。

"Youthinkso，"saidmyuncle，hiseyestwinklingwithhiddensatisfaction。

"Yes，youhavenoideahowmanyunknownmountains，glaciers，volcanoestherearewhichremaintobestudied。Withoutmovingfromwherewesit，Icanshowyouone。Yonderontheedgeofthehorizon，youseeSneffels。"

"Ohyes，Sneffels，"saidmyuncle。

"Oneofthemostcuriousvolcanoesinexistence，thecraterofwhichhasbeenrarelyvisited。"

"Extinct?"

"Extinct，anytimethesefivehundredyears，"wasthereadyreply。

"Well，"saidmyuncle，whodughisnailsintohisflesh，andpressedhiskneestightlytogethertopreventhimselfleapingupwithjoy。

"IhaveagreatmindtobeginmystudieswithanexaminationofthegeologicalmysteriesofthisMountSeffel-Feisel-whatdoyoucallit?"

"Sneffels，mydearsir。"

ThisportionoftheconversationtookplaceinLatin，andI

thereforeunderstoodallthathadbeensaid。IcouldscarcelykeepmycountenancewhenIfoundmyunclesocunninglyconcealinghisdelightandsatisfaction。Imustconfessthathisartfulgrimaces，putontoconcealhishappiness，madehimlooklikeanewMephistopheles。

"Yes，yes，"hecontinued，"yourpropositiondelightsme。IwillendeavortoclimbtothesummitofSneffels，and，ifpossible，willdescendintoitscrater。"

"Iverymuchregret，"continuedM。Fridriksson，"thatmyoccupationwillentirelyprecludethepossibilityofmyaccompanyingyou。ItwouldhavebeenbothpleasurableandprofitableifIcouldhavesparedthetime。"

"No，no，athousandtimesno，"criedmyuncle。"Idonotwishtodisturbtheserenityofanyman。Ithankyou，however，withallmyheart。Thepresenceofonesolearnedasyourself，wouldnodoubthavebeenmostuseful，butthedutiesofyourofficeandprofessionbeforeeverything。"

Intheinnocenceofhissimpleheart，ourhostdidnotperceivetheironyoftheseremarks。

"Ientirelyapproveyourproject，"continuedtheIcelanderaftersomefurtherremarks。"Itisagoodideatobeginbyexaminingthisvolcano。Youwillmakeaharvestofcuriousobservations。Inthefirstplace，howdoyouproposetogettoSneffels?"

"Bysea。Ishallcrossthebay。Ofcoursethatisthemostrapidroute。"

"Ofcourse。Butstillitcannotbedone。"

"Why?"

"WehavenotanavailableboatinallReykjavik，"repliedtheother。

"Whatistobedone?"

"Youmustgobylandalongthecoast。Itislonger，butmuchmoreinteresting。"

"ThenImusthaveaguide。"

"Ofcourse；andIhaveyourveryman。"

"SomebodyonwhomIcandepend。"

"Yes，aninhabitantofthepeninsulaonwhichSneffelsissituated。Heisaveryshrewdandworthyman，withwhomyouwillbepleased。HespeaksDanishlikeaDane。"

"WhencanIseehim-today?"

"No，tomorrow；hewillnotbeherebefore。"

"Tomorrowbeit，"repliedmyuncle，withadeepsigh。

Theconversationendedbycomplimentsonbothsides。DuringthedinnermyunclehadlearnedmuchastothehistoryofArneSaknussemm，thereasonsforhismysteriousandhieroglyphicaldocument。Healsobecameawarethathishostwouldnotaccompanyhimonhisadventurousexpedition，andthatnextdayweshouldhaveaguide。

CHAPTER8

OffatLastTHATeveningItookabriefwalkontheshorenearReykjavik，afterwhichIreturnedtoanearlysleeponmybedofcoarseplanks，whereIsleptthesleepofthejust。WhenIawokeIheardmyunclespeakingloudlyinthenextroom。Irosehastilyandjoinedhim。HewastalkinginDanishwithamanoftallstature，andofperfectlyHerculeanbuild。Thismanappearedtobepossessedofverygreatstrength。Hiseyes，whichstartedratherprominentlyfromaverylargehead，thefacebelongingtowhichwassimpleandnaive，appearedveryquickandintelligent。Verylonghair，whicheveninEnglandwouldhavebeenaccountedexceedinglyred，felloverhisathleticshoulders。ThisnativeofIcelandwasactiveandsuppleinappearance，thoughhescarcelymovedhisarms，beinginfactoneofthosemenwhodespisethehabitofgesticulationcommontosouthernpeople。

Everythinginthisman"smannerrevealedacalmandphlegmatictemperament。Therewasnothingindolentabouthim，buthisappearancespokeoftranquillity。Hewasoneofthosewhoneverseemedtoexpectanythingfromanybody，wholikedtoworkwhenhethoughtproper，andwhosephilosophynothingcouldastonishortrouble。

Ibegantocomprehendhischaracter，simplyfromthewayinwhichhelistenedtothewildandimpassionedverbiageofmyworthyuncle。

WhiletheexcellentProfessorspokesentenceaftersentence，hestoodwithfoldedarms，utterlystill，motionlesstoallmyuncle"sgesticulations。WhenhewantedtosayNohemovedhisheadfromlefttoright；whenheacquiescedhenodded，soslightlythatyoucouldscarcelyseetheundulationofhishead。Thiseconomyofmotionwascarriedtothelengthofavarice。

JudgingfromhisappearanceIshouldhavebeenalongtimebeforeIhadsuspectedhimtobewhathewas，amightyhunter。Certainlyhismannerwasnotlikelytofrightenthegame。How，then，didhecontrivetogetathisprey?

MysurprisewasslightlymodifiedwhenIknewthatthistranquilandsolemnpersonagewasonlyahunteroftheeiderduck，thedownofwhichis，afterall，thegreatestsourceoftheIcelanders"wealth。

Intheearlydaysofsummer，thefemaleoftheeider，aprettysortofduck，buildsitsnestamidtherocksofthefjords-thenamegiventoallnarrowgulfsinScandinaviancountries-withwhicheverypartoftheislandisindented。Nosoonerhastheeiderduckmadehernestthanshelinestheinsideofitwiththesoftestdownfromherbreast。Thencomesthehunterortrader，takingawaythenest，thepoorbereavedfemalebeginshertaskoveragain，andthiscontinuesaslongasanyeiderdownistobefound。

Whenshecanfindnomorethemalebirdsetstoworktoseewhathecando。As，however，hisdownisnotsosoft，andhasthereforenocommercialvalue，thehunterdoesnottakethetroubletorobhimofhisnestlining。Thenestisaccordinglyfinished，theeggsarelaid，thelittleonesareborn，andnextyeartheharvestofeiderdownisagaincollected。

Now，astheeiderduckneverselectssteeprocksoraspectstobuilditsnest，butratherslopingandlowcliffsneartothesea，theIcelandichuntercancarryonhistradeoperationswithoutmuchdifficulty。Heislikeafarmerwhohasneithertoplow，tosow，nortoharrow，onlytocollecthisharvest。

Thisgrave，sententious，silentperson，asphlegmaticasanEnglishmanontheFrenchstage，wasnamedHansBjelke。HehadcalleduponusinconsequenceoftherecommendationofM。Fridriksson。Hewas，infact，ourfutureguide。ItstruckmethathadIsoughttheworldover，Icouldnothavefoundagreatercontradictiontomyimpulsiveuncle。

They，however，readilyunderstoodoneanother。Neitherofthemhadanythoughtaboutmoney；onewasreadytotakeallthatwasofferedhim，theotherreadytoofferanythingthatwasasked。Itmayreadilybeconceived，then，thatanunderstandingwassooncometobetweenthem。

Now，theunderstandingwas，thathewastotakeustothevillageofStapi，situatedonthesouthernslopeofthepeninsulaofSneffels，attheveryfootofthevolcano。Hans，theguide，toldusthedistancewasabouttwenty-twomiles，ajourneywhichmyunclesupposedwouldtakeabouttwodays。

ButwhenmyunclecametounderstandthattheywereDanishmiles，ofeightthousandyardseach，hewasobligedtobemoremoderateinhisideas，and，consideringthehorribleroadswehadtofollow，toalloweightortendaysforthejourney。

Fourhorseswerepreparedforus，twotocarrythebaggage，andtwotobeartheimportantweightofmyselfanduncle。Hansdeclaredthatnothingeverwouldmakehimclimbonthebackofanyanimal。Hekneweveryinchofthatpartofthecoast，andpromisedtotakeustheveryshortestway。

HisengagementwithmyunclewasbynomeanstoceasewithourarrivalatStapi；hewasfurthertoremaininhisserviceduringthewholetimerequiredforthecompletionofhisscientificinvestigations，atthefixedsalaryofthreerix-dollarsaweek，beingexactlyfourteenshillingsandtwopence，minusonefarthing，Englishcurrency。Onestipulation，however，wasmadebytheguide-themoneywastobepaidtohimeverySaturdaynight，failingwhich，hisengagementwasatanend。

Thedayofourdeparturewasfixed。Myunclewishedtohandtheeider-downhunteranadvance，butherefusedinoneemphaticword-

"Efter。"

WhichbeingtranslatedfromIcelandicintoplainEnglishmeans-

"After。"

Thetreatyconcluded，ourworthyguideretiredwithoutanotherword。

"Asplendidfellow，"saidmyuncle；"onlyhelittlesuspectsthemarvelouspartheisabouttoplayinthehistoryoftheworld。"

"Youmean，then，"Icriedinamazement，"thatheshouldaccompanyus?"

"Totheinterioroftheearth，yes，"repliedmyuncle。"Whynot?"

Therewereyetforty-eighthourstoelapsebeforewemadeourfinalstart。Tomygreatregret，ourwholetimewastakenupinmakingpreparationsforourjourney。Allourindustryandabilityweredevotedtopackingeveryobjectinthemostadvantageousmanner-theinstrumentsononeside，thearmsontheother，thetoolshereandtheprovisionsthere。Therewere，infact，fourdistinctgroups。

Theinstrumentswereofcourseofthebestmanufacture:

1。AcentigradethermometerofEigel，countingupto150degrees，whichtomedidnotappearhalfenough-ortoomuch。Toohotbyhalf，ifthedegreeofheatwastoascendsohigh-inwhichcaseweshouldcertainlybecooked-notenough，ifwewantedtoascertaintheexacttemperatureofspringsormetalinastateoffusion。

2。Amanometerworkedbycompressedair，aninstrumentusedtoascertaintheupperatmosphericpressureontheleveloftheocean。

Perhapsacommonbarometerwouldnothavedoneaswell，theatmosphericpressurebeinglikelytoincreaseinproportionaswedescendedbelowthesurfaceoftheearth。

3。Afirst-classchronometermadebyBoissonnas，ofGeneva，setatthemeridianofHamburg，fromwhichGermanscalculate，astheEnglishdofromGreenwich，andtheFrenchfromParis。

4。Twocompasses，oneforhorizontalguidance，theothertoascertainthedip。

5。Anightglass。

6。TwoRuhmkorffcoils，which，bymeansofacurrentofelectricity，wouldensureusaveryexcellent，easilycarried，andcertainmeansofobtaininglight。*

*TheRuhmkorffcoilisusedtoobtaincurrentsofinducedelectricityofgreatintensity。Itconsistsofacoilofcopperwire，insulatedbybeingcoveredwithsilk，surroundedbyanothercoiloffinewire，alsoinsulated，inwhichamomentarycurrentisinducedwhenacurrentispassedthroughtheinnercoilfromavoltaicbattery。Whentheapparatusisinaction，thegasbecomesluminous，andproducesawhiteandcontinuedlight。Thebatteryandwirearecarriedinaleatherbag，whichthetravelerfastensbyastraptohisshoulders。Thelanternisinfront，andenablesthebenightedwanderertoseeinthemostprofoundobscurity。Hemayventurewithoutfearofexplosionintothemidstofthemostinflammablegases，andthelanternwillburnbeneaththedeepestwaters。H。D。Ruhmkorff，anableandlearnedchemist，discoveredtheinductioncoil。In1864hewonthequinquennialFrenchprizeofL2，000forthisingeniousapplicationofelectricity。Avoltaicbattery，socalledfromVolta，itsdesigned，isanapparatusconsistingofaseriesofmetalplatesarrangedinpairsandsubjectedtotheactionofsalinesolutionsforproducingcurrentsofelectricity。

7。Avoltaicbatteryonthenewestprinciple。

Ourarmsconsistedoftworifles，withtworevolvingsix-shooters。

Whythesearmswereprovideditwasimpossibleformetosay。Ihadeveryreasontobelievethatwehadneitherwildbeastsnorsavagenativestofear。Myuncle，ontheotherhand，wasquiteasdevotedtohisarsenalastohiscollectionofinstruments，andaboveallwasverycarefulwithhisprovisionoffulminatingorguncotton，warrantedtokeepinanyclimate，andofwhichtheexpansiveforcewasknowntobegreaterthanthatofordinarygunpowder。

Ourtoolsconsistedoftwopickaxes，twocrowbars，asilkenladder，threeiron-shodAlpinepoles，ahatchet，ahammer，adozenwedges，somepointedpiecesofiron，andaquantityofstrongrope。

Youmayconceivethatthewholemadeatolerableparcel，especiallywhenImentionthattheladderitselfwasthreehundredfeetlong!

Thentherecametheimportantquestionofprovisions。Thehamperwasnotverylargebuttolerablysatisfactory，forIknewthatinconcentratedessenceofmeatandbiscuittherewasenoughtolastsixmonths。TheonlyliquidprovidedbymyunclewasSchiedam。Ofwater，notadrop。Wehad，however，anamplesupplyofgourds，andmyunclecountedonfindingwater，andenoughtofillthem，assoonaswecommencedourdownwardjourney。Myremarksastothetemperature，thequality，andevenastothepossibilityofnonebeingfound，remainedwhollywithouteffect。

Tomakeuptheexactlistofourtravelinggear-fortheguidanceoffuturetravelers-add，thatwecarriedamedicineandsurgicalchestwithallapparatusnecessaryforwounds，fracturesandblows；lint，scissors，lancets-infact，aperfectcollectionofhorriblelookinginstruments；anumberofvialscontainingammonia，alcohol，ether，Goulardwater，aromaticvinegar，infact，everypossibleandimpossibledrug-finally，allthematerialsforworkingtheRuhmkorffcoil!

Myunclehadalsobeencarefultolayinagoodlysupplyoftobacco，severalflasksofveryfinegunpowder，boxesoftinder，besidesalargebeltcrammedfullofnotesandgold。Goodbootsrenderedwatertightweretobefoundtothenumberofsixinthetoolbox。

"Myboy，withsuchclothing，withsuchboots，andsuchgeneralequipment，"saidmyuncle，inastateofrapturousdelight，"wemayhopetotravelfar。"

Ittookawholedaytoputallthesemattersinorder。IntheeveningwedinedwithBaronTrampe，incompanywiththeMayorofReykjavik，andDoctorHyaltalin，thegreatmedicalmanofIceland。

M。Fridrikssonwasnotpresent，andIwasafterwardssorrytohearthatheandthegovernordidnotagreeonsomemattersconnectedwiththeadministrationoftheisland。Unfortunately，theconsequencewas，thatIdidnotunderstandawordthatwassaidatdinner-akindofsemiofficialreception。OnethingIcansay，myuncleneverleftoffspeaking。

Thenextdayourlaborcametoanend。Ourworthyhostdelightedmyuncle，ProfessorHardwigg，bygivinghimagoodmapofIceland，amostimportantandpreciousdocumentforamineralogist。

OurlasteveningwasspentinalongconversationwithM。

Fridriksson，whomIlikedverymuch-themorethatIneverexpectedtoseehimoranyoneelseagain。Afterthisagreeablewayofspendinganhourorso，Itriedtosleep。Invain；withtheexceptionofafewdozes，mynightwasmiserable。

Atfiveo"clockinthemorningIwasawakenedfromtheonlyrealhalfhour"ssleepofthenightbytheloudneighingofhorsesundermywindow。Ihastilydressedmyselfandwentdownintothestreet。Hanswasengagedinputtingthefinishingstroketoourbaggage，whichhedidinasilent，quietwaythatwonmyadmiration，andyethediditadmirablywell。Myunclewastedagreatdealofbreathingivinghimdirections，butworthyHanstooknottheslightestnoticeofhiswords。

Atsixo"clockallourpreparationswerecompleted，andM。

Fridrikssonshookhandsheartilywithus。Myunclethankedhimwarmly，intheIcelandiclanguage，forhiskindhospitality，speakingtrulyfromtheheart。

AsformyselfIputtogetherafewofmybestLatinphrasesandpaidhimthehighestcomplimentsIcould。Thisfraternalandfriendlydutyperformed，wesalliedforthandmountedourhorses。

Assoonaswewerequiteready，M。Fridrikssonadvanced，andbywayoffarewell，calledaftermeinthewordsofVirgil-wordswhichappearedtohavebeenmadeforus，travelersstartingforanuncertaindestination:

"Etquacunqueviamdederitfortunasequamur。"

("Andwhichsoeverwaythougoest，mayfortunefollow!")

CHAPTER9

WeMeetwithadventuresTHEweatherwasovercastbutsettled，whenwecommencedouradventurousandperilousjourney。Wehadneithertofearfatiguingheatnordrenchingrain。Itwas，infact，realtouristweather。

AstherewasnothingIlikedbetterthanhorseexercise，thepleasureofridingthroughanunknowncountrycausedtheearlypartofourenterprisetobeparticularlyagreeabletome。

Ibegantoenjoytheexhilaratingdelightoftraveling，alifeofdesire，gratificationandliberty。Thetruthis，thatmyspiritsrosesorapidly，thatIbegantobeindifferenttowhathadonceappearedtobeaterriblejourney。

"Afterall，"Isaidtomyself，"whatdoIrisk?Simplytotakeajourneythroughacuriouscountry，toclimbaremarkablemountain，andiftheworstcomestotheworst，todescendintothecraterofanextinctvolcano。"

TherecouldbenodoubtthatthiswasallthisterribleSaknussemmhaddone。Astotheexistenceofagallery，orofsubterraneouspassagesleadingintotheinterioroftheearth，theideawassimplyabsurd，thehallucinationofadistemperedimagination。All，then，thatmayberequiredofmeIwilldocheerfully，andwillcreatenodifficulty。

ItwasjustbeforeweleftReykjavikthatIcametothisdecision。

Hans，ourextraordinaryguide，wentfirst，walkingwithasteady，rapid，unvaryingstep。Ourtwohorseswiththeluggagefollowedoftheirownaccord，withoutrequiringwhiporspur。MyuncleandI

camebehind，cuttingaverytolerablefigureuponoursmallbutvigorousanimals。

IcelandisoneofthelargestislandsinEurope。Itcontainsthirtythousandsquaremilesofsurface，andhasaboutseventythousandinhabitants。Geographershavedivideditintofourparts，andwehadtocrossthesouthwestquarterwhichinthevernaculariscalledSudvestrFjordungr。

Hans，ontakinghisdeparturefromReykjavik，hadfollowedthelineofthesea。Wetookourwaythroughpoorandsparsemeadows，whichmadeadesperateefforteveryyeartoshowalittlegreen。

Theyveryrarelysucceedinagoodshowofyellow。

Theruggedsummitsoftherockyhillsweredimlyvisibleontheedgeofthehorizon，throughthemistyfogs；everynowandthensomeheavyflakesofsnowshowedconspicuousinthemorninglight，whilecertainloftyandpointedrockswerefirstlostinthegreylowclouds，theirsummitsclearlyvisibleabove，likejaggedreefsrisingfromatroubloussea。

Everynowandthenaspurofrockcamedownthroughthearidground，leavingusscarcelyroomtopass。Ourhorses，however，appearednotonlywellacquaintedwiththecountry，butbyakindofinstinct，knewwhichwasthebestroad。Myunclehadnoteventhesatisfactionofurgingforwardhissteedbywhip，spur，orvoice。Itwasutterlyuselesstoshowanysignsofimpatience。Icouldnothelpsmilingtoseehimlooksobigonhislittlehorse；hislonglegsnowandthentouchingthegroundmadehimlooklikeasix-footedcentaur。

"Goodbeast，goodbeast，"hewouldcry。"Iassureyou，"Goodbeast，goodbeast，Henry，thatIbegintothinknoanimalismoreintelligentthananIcelandichorse。Snow，tempest，impracticableroads，rocks，icebergs-nothingstopshim。Heisbrave；heissober；

heissafe；henevermakesafalsestep；neverglidesorslipsfromhispath。Idaretosaythatifanyriver，anyfjordhastobecrossed-andIhavenodoubttherewillbemany-youwillseehimenterthewaterwithouthesitationlikeanamphibiouslikeanamphibiousanimal，andreachtheoppositesideinsafety。Wemustnot，however，attempttohurryhim；wemustallowhimtohavehisownway，andIwillundertaketosaythatbetweenusweshalldoourtenleaguesaday。"

"Wemaydoso，"wasmyreply，"butwhataboutourworthyguide?"

"Ihavenottheslightestanxietyabouthim:thatsortofpeoplegoaheadwithoutknowingevenwhattheyareabout。LookatHans。Hemovessolittlethatitisimpossibleforhimtobecomefatigued。

Besides，ifheweretocomplainofweariness，hecouldhavetheloanofmyhorse。IshouldhaveaviolentattackofthecrampifIwerenottohavesomesortofexercise。Myarmsareright-butmylegsaregettingalittlestiff。"

Allthiswhilewewereadvancingatarapidpace。Thecountrywehadreachedwasalreadynearlyadesert。Hereandtherecouldbeseenanisolatedfarm，somesolitarybur，orIcelandichouse，builtofwood，earth，fragmentsoflava-lookinglikebeggarsonthehighwayoflife。

Thesewretchedandmiserablehutsexcitedinussuchpitythatwefelthalfdisposedtoleavealmsateverydoor。Inthiscountrytherearenoroads，pathsarenearlyunknown，andvegetation，poorasitwas，slowlyasitreachedperfection，soonobliteratedalltracesofthefewtravelerswhopassedfromplacetoplace。

Nevertheless，thisdivisionoftheprovince，situatedonlyafewmilesfromthecapital，isconsideredoneofthebestcultivatedandmostthicklypeopledinallIceland。What，then，mustbethestateofthelessknownandmoredistantpartsoftheisland?AftertravelingfullyhalfaDanishmile，wehadmetneitherafarmeratthedoorofhishut，norevenawanderingshepherdwithhiswildandsavageflock。

Afewstraycowsandsheepwereonlyseenoccasionally。What，then，mustweexpectwhenwecometotheupheavedregions-tothedistrictsbrokenandroughenedfromvolcaniceruptionsandsubterraneouscommotions?

Weweretolearnthisallingoodtime。Isaw，however，onconsultingthemap，thatweavoidedagooddealofthisroughcountry，byfollowingthewindinganddesolateshoresofthesea。Inreality，thegreatvolcanicmovementoftheisland，andallitsattendantphenomena，areconcentratedintheinterioroftheisland；there，horizontallayersorstrataofrocks，piledoneupontheother，eruptionsofbasalticorigin，andstreamsoflava，havegiventhiscountryakindofsupernaturalreputation。

LittledidIexpect，however，thespectaclewhichawaiteduswhenwereachedthepeninsulaofSneffels，whereagglomerationsofnature"sruinsformakindofterriblechaos。

SometwohoursormoreafterwehadleftthecityofReykjavik，wereachedthelittletowncalledAoalkirkja，ortheprincipalchurch。Itconsistssimplyofafewhouses-notwhatinEnglandorGermanyweshouldcallahamlet。

Hansstoppedhereonehalfhour。Hesharedourfrugalbreakfast，answeredYes，andNotomyuncle"squestionsastothenatureoftheroad，andatlastwhenaskedwhereweweretopassthenightwasaslaconicasusual。

"Gardar!"washisone-wordedreply。