第2章

Myhorrormaybeconceived。Iresolvedhowevertoshownofear。

Scientificreasonsweretheonlyoneslikelytoinfluencemyuncle。

Now，thereweremanyagainstthisterriblejourney。Theveryideaofgoingdowntothecenteroftheearthwassimplyabsurd。I

determinedthereforetoarguethepointafterdinner。

Myuncle"sragewasnowdirectedagainstthecookforhavingnodinnerready。Myexplanationhoweversatisfiedhim，andhavinggottenthekey，shesooncontrivedtogetsufficienttosatisfyourvoraciousappetites。

Duringtherepastmyunclewasrathergaythanotherwise。Hemadesomeofthosepeculiarjokeswhichbelongexclusivelytothelearned。Assoon，however，asdessertwasover，hecalledmetohisstudy。Weeachtookachaironoppositesidesofthetable。

"Henry，"hesaid，inasoftandwinningvoice；"Ihavealwaysbelievedyouingenious，andyouhaverenderedmeaservicenevertobeforgotten。Withoutyou，thisgreat，thiswondrousdiscoverywouldneverhavebeenmade。Itismyduty，therefore，toinsistonyoursharingtheglory。"

"Heisinagoodhumor，"thoughtI；"I"llsoonlethimknowmyopinionofglory。"

"Inthefirstplace，"hecontinued，"youmustkeepthewholeaffairaprofoundsecret。Thereisnomoreenviousraceofmenthanscientificdiscoverers。Manywouldstartonthesamejourney。Atallevents，wewillbethefirstinthefield。"

"Idoubtyourhavingmanycompetitors，"wasmyreply。

"Amanofrealscientificacquirementswouldbedelightedatthechance。WeshouldfindaperfectstreamofpilgrimsonthetracesofArneSaknussemm，ifthisdocumentwereoncemadepublic。"

"But，mydearsir，isnotthispaperverylikelytobeahoax?"I

urged。

"Thebookinwhichwefinditissufficientproofofitsauthenticity，"hereplied。

"IthoroughlyallowthatthecelebratedProfessorwrotethelines，butonly，Ibelieve，asakindofmystification，"wasmyanswer。

Scarcelywerethewordsoutofmymouth，whenIwassorryIhadutteredthem。Myunclelookedatmewithadarkandgloomyscowl，andIbegantobealarmedfortheresultsofourconversation。Hismoodsoonchanged，however，andasmiletooktheplaceofafrown。

"Weshallsee，"heremarked，withdecisiveemphasis。

"Butsee，whatisallthisaboutYocul，andSneffels，andthisScartaris?Ihaveneverheardanythingaboutthem。"

"TheverypointtowhichIamcoming。IlatelyreceivedfrommyfriendAugustusPeterman，ofLeipzig，amap。Takedownthethirdatlasfromthesecondshelf，seriesZ，plate4。"

Irose，wenttotheshelf，andpresentlyreturnedwiththevolumeindicated。

"This，"saidmyuncle，"isoneofthebestmapsofIceland。I

believeitwillsettleallyourdoubts，difficultiesandobjections。"

Withagrimhopetothecontrary，Istoopedoverthemap。

CHAPTER4

WeStartontheJourneyYOUsee，thewholeislandiscomposedofvolcanoes，"saidtheProfessor，"andremarkcarefullythattheyallbearthenameofYocul。

ThewordisIcelandic，andmeansaglacier。Inmostoftheloftymountainsofthatregionthevolcaniceruptionscomeforthfromiceboundcaverns。Hencethenameappliedtoeveryvolcanoonthisextraordinaryisland。"

"ButwhatdoesthiswordSneffelsmean?"

TothisquestionIexpectednorationalanswer。Iwasmistaken。

"FollowmyfingertothewesterncoastofIceland，thereyouseeReykjavik，itscapital。Followthedirectionofoneofitsinnumerablefjordsorarmsofthesea，andwhatdoyouseebelowthesixty-fifthdegreeoflatitude?"

"Apeninsula-verylikeathighboneinshape。

"Andinthecenterofit-?"

"Amountain。"

"Well，"that"sSneffels。"

Ihadnothingtosay。

"ThatisSneffels-amountainaboutfivethousandfeetinheight，oneofthemostremarkableinthewholeisland，andcertainlydoomedtobethemostcelebratedintheworld，forthroughitscraterweshallreachthecenteroftheearth。"

"Impossible!"criedI，startledandshockedatthethought。

"Whyimpossible?"saidProfessorHardwigginhisseveresttones。

"Becauseitscraterischokedwithlava，byburningrocks-byinfinitedangers。"

"Butifitbeextinct?"

"Thatwouldmakeadifference。"

"Ofcourseitwould。Thereareaboutthreehundredvolcanoesonthewholesurfaceoftheglobe-butthegreaternumberareextinct。OftheseSneffelsisone。Noeruptionhasoccurredsince1219-infactithasceasedtobeavolcanoatall。"

AfterthiswhatmorecouldIsay?Yes，-Ithoughtofanotherobjection。

"ButwhatisallthisaboutScartarisandthekalendsofJuly-?"

Myunclereflecteddeeply。Presentlyhegaveforththeresultofhisreflectionsinasententioustone。"Whatappearsobscuretoyou，tomeislight。ThisveryphraseshowshowparticularSaknussemmisinhisdirections。TheSneffelsmountainhasmanycraters。HeiscarefulthereforetopointtheexactonewhichisthehighwayintotheInterioroftheEarth。Heletsusknow，forthispurpose，thatabouttheendofthemonthofJune，theshadowofMountScartarisfallsupontheonecrater。Therecanbenodoubtaboutthematter。"

Myunclehadananswerforeverything。

"Iacceptallyourexplanations""Isaid"andSaknussemmisright。

Hefoundouttheentrancetothebowelsoftheearth，hehasindicatedcorrectly，butthatheoranyoneelseeverfollowedupthediscoveryismadnesstosuppose。"

"Whyso，youngman?"

"Allscientificteaching，theoreticalandpractical，showsittobeimpossible。"

"Icarenothingfortheories，"retortedmyuncle。

"Butisitnotwell-knownthatheatincreasesonedegreeforeveryseventyfeetyoudescendintotheearth?Whichgivesafineideaofthecentralheat。Allthematterswhichcomposetheglobeareinastateofincandescence；evengold，platinum，andthehardestrocksareinastateoffusion。Whatwouldbecomeofus?"

"Don"tbealarmedattheheat，myboy。"

"Howso?"

"Neitheryounoranybodyelseknowanythingabouttherealstateoftheearth"sinterior。Allmodernexperimentstendtoexplodetheoldertheories。Wereanysuchheattoexist，theuppercrustoftheearthwouldbeshatteredtoatoms，andtheworldwouldbeatanend。"

Along，learnedandnotuninterestingdiscussionfollowed，whichendedinthiswise:

"Idonotbelieveinthedangersanddifficultieswhichyou，Henry，seemtomultiply；andtheonlywaytolearn，islikeArneSaknussemm，togoandsee。"

"Well，"criedI，overcomeatlast，"letusgoandsee。Thoughhowwecandothatinthedarkisanothermystery。"

"Fearnothing。Weshallovercomethese，andmanyotherdifficulties。

Besides，asweapproachthecenter，Iexpecttofinditluminous-"

"Nothingisimpossible。"

"Andnowthatwehavecometoathoroughunderstanding，notawordtoanylivingsoul。Oursuccessdependsonsecrecyanddispatch。"

Thusendedourmemorableconference，whichrousedaperfectfeverinme。Leavingmyuncle，Iwentforthlikeonepossessed。ReachingthebanksoftheElbe，Ibegantothink。WasallIhadheardreallyandtrulypossible?Wasmyuncleinhissobersenses，andcouldtheinterioroftheearthbereached?WasIthevictimofamadman，orwasheadiscovererofrarecourageandgrandeurofconception?

ToacertainextentIwasanxioustobeoff。Iwasafraidmyenthusiasmwouldcool。Ideterminedtopackupatonce。Attheendofanhour，however，onmywayhome，Ifoundthatmyfeelingshadverymuchchanged。

"I"mallabroad，"Icried；""tisanightmare-Imusthavedreamedit。"

AtthismomentIcamefacetofacewithGretchen，whomIwarmlyembraced。

"Soyouhavecometomeetme，"shesaid；"howgoodofyou。Butwhatisthematter?"

Well，itwasnousemincingthematter，Itoldherall。Shelistenedwithawe，andforsomeminutesshecouldnotspeak。

"Well?"Iatlastsaid，ratheranxiously。

"Whatamagnificentjourney。IfIwereonlyaman!AjourneyworthyofthenephewofProfessorHardwigg。Ishouldlookuponitasanhonortoaccompanyhim。"

"MydearGretchen，Ithoughtyouwouldbethefirsttocryoutagainstthismadenterprise。"

"No；onthecontrary，Igloryinit。Itismagnificent，splendid-anideaworthyofmyfather。HenryLawson，Ienvyyou。"

Thiswas，asitwere，conclusive。Thefinalblowofall。

Whenweenteredthehousewefoundmyunclesurroundedbyworkmenandporters，whowerepackingup。Hewaspullingandhaulingatabell。

"Wherehaveyoubeenwastingyourtime?Yourportmanteauisnotpacked-mypapersarenotinorder-theprecioustailorhasnotbroughtmyclothes，normygaiters-thekeyofmycarpetbagisgone!"

Ilookedathimstupefied。Andstillhetuggedawayatthebell。

"Wearereallyoff，then?"Isaid。

"Yes-ofcourse，andyetyougooutforastroll，unfortunateboy!"

"Andwhendowego?

"Thedayaftertomorrow，atdaybreak。"

Iheardnomore；butdartedofftomylittlebedchamberandlockedmyselfin。Therewasnodoubtaboutitnow。Myunclehadbeenhardatworkalltheafternoon。Thegardenwasfullofropes，ropeladders，torches，gourds，ironclamps，crowbars，alpenstocks，andpickaxes-

enoughtoloadtenmen。

Ipassedaterriblenight。Iwascalledearlythenextdaytolearnthattheresolutionofmyunclewasunchangedandirrevocable。I

alsofoundmycousinandaffiancedwifeaswarmonthesubjectaswasherfather。

Nextday，atfiveo"clockinthemorning，thepostchaisewasatthedoor。Gretchenandtheoldcookreceivedthekeysofthehouse；and，scarcelypausingtowishanyonegood-by，westartedonouradventurousjourneyintothecenteroftheearth。

CHAPTER5

FirstLessonsinClimbingATAltona，asuburbofHamburg，istheChiefStationoftheKielrailway，whichwastotakeustotheshoresoftheBelt。IntwentyminutesfromthemomentofourdeparturewewereinHolstein，andourcarriageenteredthestation。Ourheavyluggagewastakenout，weighed，labeled，andplacedinahugevan。Wethentookourtickets，andexactlyatseveno"clockwereseatedoppositeeachotherinafirstclassrailwaycarriage。

Myunclesaidnothing。Hewastoobusyexamininghispapers，amongwhichofcoursewasthefamousparchment，andsomelettersofintroductionfromtheDanishconsulwhichweretopavethewaytoanintroductiontotheGovernorofIceland。Myonlyamusementwaslookingoutofthewindow。Butaswepassedthroughaflatthoughfertilecountry，thisoccupationwasslightlymonotonous。InthreehourswereachedKiel，andourbaggagewasatoncetransferredtothesteamer。

Wehadnowadaybeforeus，adelayofabouttenhours。Whichfactputmyuncleinatoweringpassion。Wehadnothingtodobuttowalkabouttheprettytownandbay。Atlength，however，wewentonboard，andathalfpasttenweresteamingdowntheGreatBelt。Itwasadarknight，withastrongbreezeandaroughsea，nothingbeingvisiblebuttheoccasionalfiresonshore，withhereandtherealighthouse。AtseveninthemorningweleftKorsor，alittletownonthewesternsideofSeeland。

Herewetookanotherrailway，whichinthreehoursbroughtustothecapital，Copenhagen，where，scarcelytakingtimeforrefreshment，myunclehurriedouttopresentoneofhislettersofintroduction。ItwastothedirectoroftheMuseumofAntiquities，who，havingbeeninformedthatweweretouristsboundforIceland，didallhecouldtoassistus。Onewretchedhopesustainedmenow。Perhapsnovesselwasboundforsuchdistantparts。

Alas!alittleDanishschooner，theValkyrie，wastosailonthesecondofJuneforReykjavik。Thecaptain，M。Bjarne，wasonboard，andwasrathersurprisedattheenergyandcordialitywithwhichhisfuturepassengershookhimbythehand。TohimavoyagetoIcelandwasmerelyamatterofcourse。Myuncle，ontheotherhand，consideredtheeventofsublimeimportance。ThehonestsailortookadvantageoftheProfessor"senthusiasmtodoublethefare。

"OnTuesdaymorningatseveno"clockbeonboard，"saidM。Bjarne，handingusourreceipts。

"Excellent!Capital!Glorious!"remarkedmyuncleaswesatdowntoalatebreakfast；"refreshyourself，myboy，andwewilltakearunthroughthetown。"

Ourmealconcluded，wewenttotheKongens-Nye-Torw；totheking"smagnificentpalace；tothebeautifulbridgeoverthecanalneartheMuseum；totheimmensecenotaphofThorwaldsenwithitshideousnavalgroups；tothecastleofRosenberg；andtoalltheotherlionsoftheplace-noneofwhichmyuncleevensaw，soabsorbedwasheinhisanticipatedtriumphs。

Butonethingstruckhisfancy，andthatwasacertainsingularsteeplesituatedontheIslandofAmak，whichisthesoutheastquarterofthecityofCopenhagen。Myuncleatonceorderedmetoturnmystepsthatway，andaccordinglywewentonboardthesteamferryboatwhichdoesdutyonthecanal，andverysoonreachedthenoteddockyardquay。

Inthefirstinstancewecrossedsomenarrowstreets，wherewemetnumerousgroupsofgalleyslaves，withparticoloredtrousers，greyandyellow，workingundertheordersandthesticksofseveretaskmasters，andfinallyreachedtheVor-Frelser"s-Kirk。

Thischurchexhibitednothingremarkableinitself；infact，theworthyProfessorhadonlybeenattractedtoitbyonecircumstance，whichwas，thatitsratherelevatedsteeplestartedfromacircularplatform，afterwhichtherewasanexteriorstaircase，whichwoundroundtotheverysummit。

"Letusascend，"saidmyuncle。

"ButInevercouldclimbchurchtowers，"Icried，"Iamsubjecttodizzinessinmyhead。"

"Theveryreasonwhyyoushouldgoup。Iwanttocureyouofabadhabit。"

"But，mygoodsir-"

"Itellyoutocome。Whatistheuseofwastingsomuchvaluabletime?"

Itwasimpossibletodisputethedictatorialcommandsofmyuncle。I

yieldedwithagroan。Onpaymentofafee，avergergaveusthekey。

He，forone，wasnotpartialtotheascent。Myuncleatonceshowedmetheway，runningupthestepslikeaschoolboy。IfollowedaswellasIcould，thoughnosoonerwasIoutsidethetower，thanmyheadbegantoswim。Therewasnothingoftheeagleaboutme。Theearthwasenoughforme，andnoambitiousdesiretosoareverenteredmymind。StillthingsdidnotgobadlyuntilIhadascended150steps，andwasneartheplatform，whenIbegantofeeltherushofcoldair。Icouldscarcelystand，whenclutchingtherailings，Ilookedupwards。Therailingwasfrailenough，butnothingtothosewhichskirtedtheterriblewindingstaircase，thatappeared，fromwhereI

stood，toascendtotheskies。

"Nowthen，Henry。"

"Ican"tdoit!"Icried，inaccentsofdespair。

"Areyou，afterall，acoward，sir?"saidmyuncleinapitilesstone。"Goup，Isay!"

Tothistherewasnoreplypossible。Andyetthekeenairactedviolentlyonmynervoussystem；sky，earth，allseemedtoswimround，whilethesteeplerockedlikeaship。Mylegsgavewaylikethoseofadrunkenman。Icrawleduponmyhandsandknees；Ihauledmyselfupslowly，crawlinglikeasnake。PresentlyIclosedmyeyes，andallowedmyselftobedraggedupwards。

"Lookaroundyou，"saidmyuncleinasternvoice，"heavenknowswhatprofoundabyssesyoumayhavetolookdown。Thisisexcellentpractice。"

Slowly，andshiveringallthewhilewithcold，Iopenedmyeyes。

WhatthendidIsee?Myfirstglancewasupwardsatthecoldfleecyclouds，whichasbysomeopticaldelusionappearedtostandstill，whilethesteeple，theweathercock，andourtwoselveswerecarriedswiftlyalong。Farawayononesidecouldbeseenthegrassyplain，whileontheotherlaytheseabathedintranslucentlight。TheSund，orSoundaswecallit，couldbediscoveredbeyondthepointofElsinore，crowdedwithwhitesails，which，atthatdistancelookedlikethewingsofseagulls；whiletotheeastcouldbemadeoutthefar-offcoastofSweden。Thewholeappearedamagicpanorama。

ButfaintandbewilderedasIwas，therewasnoremedyforit。

RiseandstandupImust。Despitemyprotestationsmyfirstlessonlastedquiteanhour。When，nearlytwohourslater，Ireachedthebosomofmotherearth，Iwaslikearheumaticoldmanbentdoublewithpain。

"Enoughforoneday，"saidmyuncle，rubbinghishands，"wewillbeginagaintomorrow。"

Therewasnoremedy。Mylessonslastedfivedays，andattheendofthatperiod，Iascendedblithelyenough，andfoundmyselfabletolookdownintothedepthsbelowwithoutevenwinking，andwithsomedegreeofpleasure。

CHAPTER6

OurVoyagetoIcelandTHEhourofdeparturecameatlast。Thenightbefore，theworthyMr。

ThompsonbroughtusthemostcordiallettersofintroductionforBaronTrampe，GovernorofIceland，forM。Pictursson，coadjutortothebishop，andforM。Finsen，mayorofthetownofReykjavik。Inreturn，myunclenearlycrushedhishands，sowarmlydidheshakethem。

Onthesecondofthemonth，attwointhemorning，ourpreciouscargoofluggagewastakenonboardthegoodshipValkyrie。Wefollowed，andwereverypolitelyintroducedbythecaptaintoasmallcabinwithtwostandingbedplaces，neitherverywellventilatednorverycomfortable。Butinthecauseofsciencemenareexpectedtosuffer。

"Well，"andhaveweafairwind?"criedmyuncle，inhismostmellifluousaccents。

"Anexcellentwind!"repliedCaptainBjarne；"weshallleavetheSound，goingfreewithallsailsset。"

Afewminutesafterwards，theschoonerstartedbeforethewind，underallthecanvasshecouldcarry，andenteredthechannel。Anhourlater，thecapitalofDenmarkseemedtosinkintothewaves，andwewereatnogreatdistancefromthecoastofElsinore。Myunclewasdelighted；formyself，moodyanddissatisfied，IappearedalmosttoexpectaglimpseoftheghostofHamlet。

"SublimemadmanthoughtI，"youdoubtlesswouldapproveourproceedings。Youmightperhapsevenfollowustothecenteroftheearth，theretoresolveyoureternaldoubts。"

Butnoghostoranythingelseappearedupontheancientwalls。Thefactis，thecastleismuchlaterthanthetimeoftheheroicprinceofDenmark。ItisnowtheresidenceofthekeeperoftheStraitoftheSound，andthroughthatSoundmorethanfifteenthousandvesselsofallnationspasseveryyear。

ThecastleofKronborgsoondisappearedinthemurkyatmosphere，aswellasthetowerofHelsinborg，whichraisesitsheadontheSwedishBank。AndheretheschoonerbegantofeelinearnestthebreezesoftheKattegat。TheValkyriewasswiftenough，butwithallsailingboatsthereisthesameuncertainty。Hercargowascoal，furniture，pottery，woolenclothing，andaloadofcorn。Asusual，thecrewwassmall，fiveDanesdoingthewholeofthework。

"Howlongwillthevoyagelast?"askedmyuncle。

"Well，"Ishouldthinkabouttendays，"repliedtheskipper，"unless，indeed，wemeetwithsomenortheastgalesamongtheFaroeIslands。"

"Atallevents，therewillbenoveryconsiderabledelay，"criedtheimpatientProfessor。

"No，Mr。Hardwigg，"saidthecaptain，"nofearofthat。Atallevents，weshallgettheresomeday。"

TowardseveningtheschoonerdoubledCapeSkagen，thenorthernmostpartofDenmark，crossedtheSkagerrakduringthenight-skirtedtheextremepointofNorwaythroughthegutofCapeLindesnes，andthenreachedtheNorthernSeas。TwodayslaterwewerenotfarfromthecoastofScotland，somewherenearwhatDanishsailorscallPeterhead，andthentheValkyriestretchedoutdirectfortheFaroeIslands，betweenOrkneyandShetland。Ourvesselnowfeltthefullforceoftheoceanwaves，andthewindshifting，wewithgreatdifficultymadetheFaroeIsles。Ontheeighthday，thecaptainmadeoutMyganness，thewesternmostoftheisles，andfromthatmomentheadeddirectforPortland，acapeonthesouthernshoresofthesingularislandforwhichwewerebound。

Thevoyageofferednoincidentworthyofrecord。Iboreitverywell，butmyuncletohisgreatannoyance，andevenshame，wasremarkablyseasick!ThismaldemertroubledhimthemorethatitpreventedhimfromquestioningCaptainBjarneastothesubjectofSneffels，astothemeansofcommunication，andthefacilitiesoftransport。Alltheseexplanationshehadtoadjourntotheperiodofhisarrival。Histime，meanwhile，wasspentlyinginbedgroaning，anddwellinganxiouslyonthehoped-forterminationofthevoyage。I

didn"tpityhim。

OntheeleventhdaywesightedCapePortland，overwhichtoweredMountMyrdalsYokul，which，theweatherbeingclear，wemadeoutveryreadily。ThecapeitselfisnothingbutahugemountofgranitestandingnakedandalonetomeettheAtlanticwaves。TheValkyriekeptoffthecoast，steeringtothewestward。Onallsidesweretobeseenwhole"schools"ofwhalesandsharks。Aftersomehourswecameinsightofasolitaryrockintheocean，formingamightyvault，throughwhichthefoamingwavespouredwithintensefury。TheisletsofWestmanappearedtoleapfromtheocean，beingsolowinthewaterasscarcelytobeseenuntilyouwererightuponthem。FromthatmomenttheschoonerwassteeredtothewestwardinordertoroundCapeReykjanes，thewesternpointofIceland。

Myuncle，tohisgreatdisgust，wasunableeventocrawlondeck，soheavyaseawason，andthuslostthefirstviewoftheLandofPromise。Forty-eighthourslater，afterastormwhichdroveusfartoseaunderbarepoles，wecameoncemoreinsightofland，andwereboardedbyapilot，who，afterthreehoursofdangerousnavigation，broughttheschoonersafelytoananchorinthebayofFaxabeforeReykjavik。

Myunclecameoutofhiscabinpale，haggard，thin，butfullofenthusiasm，hiseyesdilatedwithpleasureandsatisfaction。Nearlythewholepopulationofthetownwasonfoottoseeusland。Thefactwas，thatscarcelyanyoneofthembutexpectedsomegoodsbytheperiodicalvessel。

ProfessorHardwiggwasinhastetoleavehisprison，orratherashecalledit，hishospital；butbeforeheattemptedtodoso，hecaughtholdofmyhand，ledmetothequarterdeckoftheschooner，tookmyarmwithhislefthand，andpointedinlandwithhisright，overthenorthernpartofthebay，towhereroseahightwo-peakedmountain-

adoubleconecoveredwitheternalsnow。

"Beholdhewhisperedinanawe-strickenvoice，behold-MountSneffels!"

Thenwithoutfurtherremark，heputhisfingertohislips，frowneddarkly，anddescendedintothesmallboatwhichawaitedus。

Ifollowed，andinafewminuteswestooduponthesoilofmysteriousIceland!

Scarcelywerewefairlyonshorewhenthereappearedbeforeusamanofexcellentappearance，wearingthecostumeofamilitaryofficer。Hewas，however，butacivilservant，amagistrate，thegovernoroftheisland-BaronTrampe。TheProfessorknewwhomhehadtodealwith。

HethereforehandedhimthelettersfromCopenhagen，andabriefconversationinDanishfollowed，towhichIofcoursewasastranger，andforaverygoodreason，forIdidnotknowthelanguageinwhichtheyconversed。Iafterwardsheard，however，thatBaronTrampeplacedhimselfentirelyatthebeckandcallofProfessorHardwigg。

MyunclewasmostgraciouslyreceivedbyM。Finsen，themayor，whoasfarascostumewent，wasquiteasmilitaryasthegovernor，butalsofromcharacterandoccupationquiteaspacific。Asforhiscoadjutor，M。Pictursson，hewasabsentonanepiscopalvisittothenorthernportionofthediocese。Wewerethereforecompelledtodeferthepleasureofbeingpresentedtohim。Hisabsencewas，however，morethancompensatedbythepresenceofM。Fridriksson，professorofnaturalscienceinthecollegeofReykjavik，amanofinvaluableability。ThismodestscholarspokenolanguagessaveIcelandicandLatin。When，therefore，headdressedhimselftomeinthelanguageofHorace，weatoncecametounderstandoneanother。

Hewas，infact，theonlypersonthatIdidthoroughlyunderstandduringthewholeperiodofmyresidenceinthisbenightedisland。

Outofthreeroomsofwhichhishousewascomposed，twowereplacedatourservice，andinafewhourswewereinstalledwithallourbaggage，theamountofwhichratherastonishedthesimpleinhabitantsofReykjavik。

"Now，Harry，"saidmyuncle，rubbinghishands，"angoeswell，theworsedifficultyisnowover。"

"Howtheworsedifficultyover?"Icriedinfreshamazement。

"Doubtless。HereweareinIceland。Nothingmoreremainsbuttodescendintothebowelsoftheearth。"

"Well，sir，toacertainextentyouareright。Wehaveonlytogodown-but，asfarasIamconcerned，thatisnotthequestion。I

wanttoknowhowwearetogetupagain。"

"Thatistheleastpartofthebusiness，anddoesnotinanywaytroubleme。Inthemeantime，thereisnotanhourtolose。Iamabouttovisitthepubliclibrary。VerylikelyImayfindtheresomemanuscriptsfromthehandofSaknussemm。Ishallbegladtoconsultthem。"

"Inthemeanwhile，"Ireplied，"Iwilltakeawalkthroughthetown。

Willyounotlikewisedoso?"

"Ifeelnointerestinthesubject，"saidmyuncle。"Whatformeiscuriousinthisisland，isnotwhatisabovethesurface，butwhatisbelow。"

Ibowedbywayofreply，putonmyhatandfurredcloak，andwentout。

ItwasnotaneasymattertoloseoneselfinthetwostreetsofReykjavik；Ihadthereforenoneedtoaskmyway。Thetownliesonaflatandmarshyplain，betweentwohills。Avastfieldoflavaskirtsitononeside，fallingawayinterracestowardsthesea。OntheotherhandisthelargebayofFaxa，borderedonthenorthbytheenormousglacierofSneffels，andinwhichbaytheValkyriewasthentheonlyvesselatanchor。GenerallytherewereoneortwoEnglishorFrenchgunboats，towatchandprotectthefisheriesintheoffing。Theywerenow，however，absentonduty。

ThelongestofthestreetsofReykjavikrunsparalleltotheshore。Inthisstreetthemerchantsandtradersliveinwoodenhutsmadewithbeamsofwood，paintedred-mereloghuts，suchasyoufindinthewildsofAmerica。Theotherstreet，situatedmoretothewest，runstowardalittlelakebetweentheresidencesofthebishopandtheotherpersonagesnotengagedincommerce。

IhadsoonseenallIwantedofthesewearyanddismalthoroughfares。Hereandtherewasastripofdiscoloredturf，likeanoldworn-outbitofwoolencarpet；andnowandthenabitofkitchengarden，inwhichgrewpotatoes，cabbage，andlettuce，almostdiminutiveenoughtosuggesttheideaofLilliput。

Inthecenterofthenewcommercialstreet，Ifoundthepubliccemetery，enclosedbyanearthenwall。Thoughnotverylarge，itappearednotlikelytobefilledforcenturies。FromhenceIwenttothehouseoftheGovernor-amerehutincomparisonwiththeMansionHouseofHamburg-butapalacealongsidetheotherIcelandichouses。

Betweenthelittlelakeandthetownwasthechurch，builtinsimpleProtestantstyle，andcomposedofcalcinedstones，thrownupbyvolcanicaction。Ihavenottheslightestdoubtthatinhighwindsitsredtileswereblownout，tothegreatannoyanceofthepastorandcongregation。Uponaneminencecloseathandwasthenationalschool，inwhichweretaughtHebrew，English，French，andDanish。

Inthreehoursmytourwascomplete。Thegeneralimpressionuponmymindwassadness。Notrees，novegetation，sotospeak-onallsidesvolcanicpeaks-thehutsofturfandearth-morelikeroofsthanhouses。Thankstotheheatoftheseresidences，grassgrowsontheroof，whichgrassiscarefullycutforhay。Isawbutfewinhabitantsduringmyexcursion，butImetacrowdonthebeach，drying，saltingandloadingcodfish，theprincipalarticleofexportation。Themenappearedrobustbutheavy；fair-hairedlikeGermans，butofpensivemien-exilesofahigherscaleintheladderofhumanitythantheEskimos，but，Ithought，muchmoreunhappy，sincewithsuperiorperceptionstheyarecompelledtolivewithinthelimitsofthePolarCircle。

Sometimestheygaveventtoaconvulsivelaugh，butbynochancedidtheysmile。Theircostumeconsistsofacoarsecapoteofblackwool，knowninScandinaviancountriesasthe"vadmel，"abroad-brimmedhat，trousersofredserge，andapieceofleathertiedwithstringsforashoe-acoarsekindofmoccasin。Thewomen，thoughsad-lookingandmournful，hadratheragreeablefeatures，withoutmuchexpression。Theywearabodiceandpetticoatofsombervadmel。Whenunmarriedtheywearalittlebrownknittedcapoveracrownofplaitedhair；butwhenmarried，theycovertheirheadswithacoloredhandkerchief，overwhichtheytieawhitescarf。

CHAPTER7

ConversationandDiscoveryWHENIreturned，dinnerwasready。Thismealwasdevouredbymyworthyrelativewithavidityandvoracity。Hisshipboarddiethadturnedhisinteriorintoaperfectgulf。Therepast，whichwasmoreDanishthanIcelandic，wasinitselfnothing，buttheexcessivehospitalityofourhostmadeusenjoyitdoubly。