第4章

Itookoccasiontoconsultthemap，toseewhereGardarwastobefound。AfterlookingkeenlyIfoundasmalltownofthatnameonthebordersoftheHvalfjord，aboutfourmilesfromReykjavik。Ipointedthisouttomyuncle，whomadeaveryenergeticgrimace。

"Onlyfourmilesoutoftwenty-two?Whyitisonlyalittlewalk。"

Hewasabouttomakesomeenergeticobservationtotheguide，butHans，withouttakingtheslightestnoticeofhim，wentinfrontofthehorses，andwalkedaheadwiththesameimperturbablephlegmhehadalwaysexhibited。

Threehourslater，stilltravelingoverthoseapparentlyinterminableandsandyprairies，wewerecompelledtogoroundtheKollafjord，aneasierandshortercutthancrossingthegulfs。ShortlyafterweenteredaplaceofcommunaljurisdictioncalledEjulberg，andtheclockofwhichwouldthenhavestrucktwelve，ifanyIcelandicchurchhadbeenrichenoughtopossesssovaluableandusefulanarticle。Thesesacrededificesare，however，verymuchlikethesepeople，whodowithoutwatches-andnevermissthem。

Herethehorseswereallowedtotakesomerestandrefreshment，thenfollowinganarrowstripofshorebetweenhighrocksandthesea，theytookuswithoutfurtherhalttotheAoalkirkjaofBrantar，andafteranothermiletoSaurboerAnnexia，achapelofease，situatedonthesouthernbankoftheHvalfjord。

Itwasfouro"clockintheeveningandwehadtraveledfourDanishmiles，aboutequaltotwentyEnglish。

Thefjordwasinthisplaceabouthalfamileinwidth。Thesweepingandbrokenwavescamerollinginuponthepointedrocks；thegulfwassurroundedbyrockywalls-amightycliff，threethousandfeetinheight，remarkableforitsbrownstrata，separatedhereandtherebybedsoftufaofareddishhue。Now，whatevermayhavebeentheintelligenceofourhorses，Ihadnottheslightestrelianceuponthem，asameansofcrossingastormyarmofthesea。Torideoversaltwateruponthebackofalittlehorseseemedtomeabsurd。

"Iftheyarereallyintelligent，"Isaidtomyself，"theywillcertainlynotmaketheattempt。Inanycase，Ishalltrustrathertomyownintelligencethantheirs。"

Butmyunclewasinnohumortowait。Hedughisheelsintothesidesofhissteed，andmadefortheshore。Hishorsewenttotheveryedgeofthewater，sniffedattheapproachingwaveandretreated。

Myuncle，whowas，soothtosay，quiteasobstinateasthebeasthebestrode，insistedonhismakingthedesiredadvance。Thisattemptwasfollowedbyanewrefusalonthepartofthehorsewhichquietlyshookhishead。Thisdemonstrationofrebellionwasfollowedbyavolleyofwordsandastoutapplicationofwhipcord；alsofollowedbykicksonthepartofthehorse，whichthrewitsheadandheelsupwardsandtriedtothrowhisrider。Atlengththesturdylittlepony，spreadingouthislegs，inastiffandludicrousattitude，gotfromundertheProfessor"slegs，andlefthimstanding，withbothfeetonaseparatestone，liketheColossusofRhodes。

"Wretchedanimal!"criedmyuncle，suddenlytransformedintoafootpassenger-andasangryandashamedasadismountedcavalryofficeronthefieldofbattle。

"Farja，"saidtheguide，tappinghimfamiliarlyontheshoulder。

"What，aferryboat!

"Der，"answeredHans，pointingtowherelaytheboatinquestion-"there。"

"Well，"Icried，quitedelightedwiththeinformation；"soitis。"

"Whydidyounotsaysobefore，"criedmyuncle；"whynotstartatonce?"

"Tidvatten，"saidtheguide。

"Whatdoeshesay?"Iasked，considerablypuzzledbythedelayandthedialogue。

"Hesaystide，"repliedmyuncle，translatingtheDanishwordformyinformation。

"OfcourseIunderstand-wemustwaittillthetideserves。"

"Forbida?"askedmyuncle。

"Ja，"repliedHans。

Myunclefrowned，stampedhisfeetandthenfollowedthehorsestowheretheboatlay。

Ithoroughlyunderstoodandappreciatedthenecessityforwaiting，beforecrossingthefjord，forthatmomentwhentheseaatitshighestpointisinastateofslackwater。Asneithertheebbnorflowcanthenbefelt，theferryboatwasinnodangerofbeingcarriedouttosea，ordashedupontherockycoast。

Thefavorablemomentdidnotcomeuntilsixo"clockintheevening。Thenmyuncle，myself，andguide，twoboatmenandthefourhorsesgotintoaveryawkwardflat-bottomboat。AccustomedasIhadbeentothesteamferryboatsoftheElbe，Ifoundthelongoarsoftheboatmenbutsorrymeansoflocomotion。Weweremorethananhourincrossingthefjord；butatlengththepassagewasconcludedwithoutaccident。

HalfanhourlaterwereachedGardar。

CHAPTER10

TravelinginIcelandITought，onewouldhavethought，tohavebeennight，eveninthesixty-fifthparalleloflatitude；butstillthenocturnalilluminationdidnotsurpriseme。ForinIceland，duringthemonthsofJuneandJuly，thesunneversets。

Thetemperature，however，wasverymuchlowerthanIexpected。Iwascold，buteventhatdidnotaffectmesomuchasravenoushunger。

Welcomeindeed，therefore，wasthehutwhichhospitablyopeneditsdoorstous。

Itwasmerelythehouseofapeasant，butinthematterofhospitality，itwasworthyofbeingthepalaceofaking。Aswealightedatthedoorthemasterofthehousecameforward，heldouthishand，andwithoutanyfurtherceremony，signaledtoustofollowhim。

Wefollowedhim，fortoaccompanyhimwasimpossible。Along，narrow，gloomypassageledintotheinteriorofthishabitation，madefrombeamsroughlysquaredbytheax。Thispassagegaveingresstoeveryroom。Thechamberswerefourinnumber-thekitchen，theworkshop，wheretheweavingwascarriedon，thegeneralsleepingchamberofthefamily，andthebestroom，towhichstrangerswereespeciallyinvited。Myuncle，whoseloftystaturehadnotbeentakenintoconsiderationwhenthehousewasbuilt，contrivedtoknockhisheadagainstthebeamsoftheroof。

Wewereintroducedintoourchamber，akindoflargeroomwithahardearthenfloor，andlightedbyawindow，thepanesofwhichweremadeofasortofparchmentfromtheintestinesofsheep-veryfarfromtransparent。

Thebeddingwascomposedofdryhaythrownintotwolongredwoodenboxes，ornamentedwithsentencespaintedinIcelandic。Ireallyhadnoideathatweshouldbemadesocomfortable。Therewasoneobjectiontothehouse，andthatwas，theverypowerfulodorofdriedfish，ofmaceratedmeat，andofsourmilk，whichthreefragrancescombineddidnotatallsuitmyolfactorynerves。

Assoonaswehadfreedourselvesfromourheavytravelingcostume，thevoiceofourhostwasheardcallingtoustocomeintothekitchen，theonlyroominwhichtheIcelandersevermakeanyfire，nomatterhowcolditmaybe。

Myuncle，nothingloath，hastenedtoobeythishospitableandfriendlyinvitation。Ifollowed。

Thekitchenchimneywasmadeonanantiquemodel。Alargestonestandinginthemiddleoftheroomwasthefireplace；above，intheroof，wasaholeforthesmoketopassthrough。Thisapartmentwaskitchen，parloranddiningroomallinone。

Onourentrance，ourworthyhost，asifhehadnotseenusbefore，advancedceremoniously，utteredawordwhichmeans"behappy，"andthenkissedbothofusonthecheek。

Hiswifefollowed，pronouncedthesameword，withthesameceremonial，thenthehusbandandwife，placingtheirrighthandsupontheirhearts，bowedprofoundly。

ThisexcellentIcelandicwomanwasthemotherofnineteenchildren，who，littleandbig，rolled，crawled，andwalkedaboutinthemidstofvolumesofsmokearisingfromtheangularfireplaceinthemiddleoftheroom。EverynowandthenIcouldseeafreshwhitehead，andaslightlymelancholyexpressionofcountenance，peeringatmethroughthevapor。

Bothmyuncleandmyself，however，wereveryfriendlywiththewholeparty，andbeforewewereawareofit，therewerethreeorfouroftheselittleonesonourshoulders，asmanyonourboxes，andtheresthangingaboutourlegs。Thosewhocouldspeakkeptcryingoutsaellvertuineverypossibleandimpossiblekey。Thosewhodidnotspeakonlymadeallthemorenoise。

Thisconcertwasinterruptedbytheannouncementofsupper。Atthismomentourworthyguide，theeider-duckhunter，cameinafterseeingtothefeedingandstablingofthehorses-whichconsistedinlettingthemloosetobrowseonthestuntedgreenoftheIcelandicprairies。Therewaslittleforthemtoeat，butmossandsomeverydryandinnutritiousgrass；nextdaytheywerereadybeforethedoor，sometimebeforewewere。

"Welcome，"saidHans。

Thentranquilly，withtheairofanautomaton，withoutanymoreexpressioninonekissthananother，heembracedthehostandhostessandtheirnineteenchildren。

Thisceremonyconcludedtothesatisfactionofallparties，weallsatdowntotable，thatistwenty-fourofus，somewhatcrowded。

Thosewhowerebestoffhadonlytwojuvenilesontheirknees。

Assoon，however，astheinevitablesoupwasplacedonthetable，thenaturaltaciturnity，commoneventoIcelandicbabies，prevailedoverallelse。OurhostfilledourplateswithaportionoflichensoupofIcelandmoss，ofbynomeansdisagreeableflavor，anenormouslumpoffishfloatinginsourbutter。Afterthattherecamesomeskyr，akindofcurdsandwhey，servedwithbiscuitsandjuniper-berryjuice。Todrink，wehadblanda，skimmedmilkwithwater。

Iwashungry，sohungry，thatbywayofdessertIfinishedupwithabasinofthickoatenporridge。

Assoonasthemealwasover，thechildrendisappeared，whilstthegrownpeoplesataroundthefireplace，onwhichwasplacedturf，heather，cowdunganddriedfish-bones。Assoonaseverybodywassufficientlywarm，ageneraldispersiontookplace，allretiringtotheirrespectivecouches。Ourhostessofferedtopulloffourstockingsandtrousers，accordingtothecustomofthecountry，butaswegraciouslydeclinedtobesohonored，sheleftustoourbedofdryfodder。

Nextday，atfiveinthemorning，wetookourleaveofthesehospitablepeasants。Myunclehadgreatdifficultyinmakingthemacceptasufficientandproperremuneration。

Hansthengavethesignaltostart。

WehadscarcelygotahundredyardsfromGardar，whenthecharacterofthecountrychanged。Thesoilbegantobemarshyandboggy，andlessfavorabletoprogress。Totheright，therangeofmountainswasprolongedindefinitelylikeagreatsystemofnaturalfortifications，ofwhichweskirtedtheglacis。Wemetwithnumerousstreamsandrivuletswhichitwasnecessarytoford，andthatwithoutwettingourbaggage。Asweadvanced，thedesertedappearanceincreased，andyetnowandthenwecouldseehumanshadowsflittinginthedistance。Whenasuddenturnofthetrackbroughtuswithineasyreachofoneofthesespecters，Ifeltasuddenimpulseofdisgustatthesightofaswollenhead，withshiningskin，utterlywithouthair，andwhoserepulsiveandrevoltingwoundscouldbeseenthroughhisrags。Theunhappywretchesnevercameforwardtobeg；onthecontrary，theyranaway；notsoquick，however，butthatHanswasabletosalutethemwiththeuniversalsaellvertu。

"Spetelsk，"saidhe。

"Aleper，"explainedmyuncle。

Theverysoundofsuchawordcausedafeelingofrepulsion。Thehorribleafflictionknownasleprosy，whichhasalmostvanishedbeforetheeffectsofmodernscience，iscommoninIceland。Itisnotcontagiousbuthereditary，sothatmarriageisstrictlyprohibitedtotheseunfortunatecreatures。

Thesepoorlepersdidnottendtoenlivenourjourney，thesceneofwhichwasinexpressiblysadandlonely。Theverylasttuftsofgrassyvegetationappearedtodieatourfeet。Notatreewastobeseen，exceptafewstuntedwillowsaboutasbigasblackberrybushes。Nowandthenwewatchedafalconsoaringinthegreyandmistyair，takinghisflighttowardswarmerandsunnierregions。Icouldnothelpfeelingasenseofmelancholycomeoverme。IsighedformyownNativeLand，andwishedtobebackwithGretchen。

Wewerecompelledtocrossseverallittlefjords，andatlastcametoarealgulf。Thetidewasatitsheight，andwewereabletogooveratonce，andreachthehamletofAlftanes，aboutamilefarther。

Thatevening，afterfordingtheAlfaandtheHeta，tworiversrichintroutandpike，wewerecompelledtopassthenightinadesertedhouse，worthyofbeinghauntedbyallthefaysofScandinavianmythology。TheKingofColdhadtakenuphisresidencethere，andmadeusfeelhispresenceallnight。

Thefollowingdaywasremarkablebyitslackofanyparticularincidents。Alwaysthesamedampandswampysoil；thesamedrearyuniformity；thesamesadandmonotonousaspectofscenery。Intheevening，havingaccomplishedthehalfofourprojectedjourney，wesleptattheAnnexiaofKrosolbt。

Forawholemilewehadunderourfeetnothingbutlava。Thisdispositionofthesoiliscalledhraun:thecrumbledlavaonthesurfacewasinsomeinstanceslikeshipcablesstretchedouthorizontally，inotherscoiledupinheaps；animmensefieldoflavacamefromtheneighboringmountains，allextinctvolcanoes，butwhoseremainsshowedwhatoncetheyhadbeen。Hereandtherecouldbemadeoutthesteamfromhotwatersprings。

Therewasnotime，however，forustotakemorethanacursoryviewofthesephenomena。Wehadtogoforwardwithwhatspeedwemight。Soonthesoftandswampysoilagainappearedunderthefeetofourhorses，whileateveryhundredyardswecameupononeormoresmalllakes。Ourjourneywasnowinawesterlydirection；wehad，infact，sweptroundthegreatbayofFaxa，andthetwinwhitesummitsofSneffelsrosetothecloudsatadistanceoflessthanfivemiles。

Thehorsesnowadvancedrapidly。Theaccidentsanddifficultiesofthesoilnolongercheckedthem。Iconfessthatfatiguebegantotellseverelyuponme；butmyunclewasasfirmandashardashehadbeenonthefirstday。IcouldnothelpadmiringboththeexcellentProfessorandtheworthyguide；fortheyappearedtoregardthisruggedexpeditionasamerewalk!

OnSaturday，the20thJune，atsixo"clockintheevening，wereachedBudir，asmalltownpicturesquelysituatedontheshoreoftheocean；andheretheguideaskedforhismoney。Myunclesettledwithhimimmediately。

ItwasnowthefamilyofHanshimself，thatistosay，hisuncles，hiscousins-german，whoofferedushospitality。Wewereexceedinglywellreceived，andwithouttakingtoomuchadvantageofthegoodnessoftheseworthypeople，Ishouldhavelikedverymuchtohaverestedwiththemafterthefatiguesofthejourney。Butmyuncle，whodidnotrequirerest，hadnoideaofanythingofthekind；anddespitethefactthatnextdaywasSunday，I

wascompelledoncemoretomountmysteed。

Thesoilwasagainaffectedbytheneighborhoodofthemountains，whosegranitepeeredoutofthegroundliketopsofanoldoak。Wewereskirtingtheenormousbaseofthemightyvolcano。Myunclenevertookhiseyesfromoffit；hecouldnotkeepfromgesticulating，andlookingatitwithakindofsullendefianceasmuchastosay"ThatisthegiantIhavemadeupmymindtoconquer。"

Afterfourhoursofsteadytraveling，thehorsesstoppedofthemselvesbeforethedoorofthepresbyteryofStapi。

CHAPTER11

WeReachMountSneffelsSTAPIisatownconsistingofthirtyhuts，builtonalargeplainoflava，exposedtotheraysofthesun，reflectedfromthevolcano。Itstretchesitshumbletenementsalongtheendofalittlefjord，surroundedbyabasalticwallofthemostsingularcharacter。

Basaltisabrownrockofigneousorigin。Itassumesregularforms，whichastonishbytheirsingularappearance。HerewefoundNatureproceedinggeometrically，andworkingquiteafterahumanfashion，asifshehademployedtheplummetline，thecompassandtherule。Ifelsewheresheproducesgrandartisticeffectsbypilinguphugemasseswithoutorderorconnection-ifelsewhereweseetruncatedcones，imperfectpyramids，withanoddsuccessionoflines；here，asifwishingtogivealessoninregularity，andprecedingthearchitectsoftheearlyages，shehaserectedasevereorderofarchitecture，whichneitherthesplendorsofBabylonnorthemarvelsofGreeceeversurpassed。

IhadoftenheardoftheGiant"sCausewayinIreland，andofFingal"sCaveinoneoftheHebrides，butthegrandspectacleofarealbasalticformationhadneveryetcomebeforemyeyes。

ThisatStapigaveusanideaofoneinallitswonderfulbeautyandgrace。

Thewallofthefjord，likenearlythewholeofthepeninsula，consistedofaseriesofverticalcolumns，inheightaboutthirtyfeet。Theseuprightpillarsofstone，ofthefinestproportions，supportedanarchivaultofhorizontalcolumnswhichformedakindofhalf-vaultedroofabovethesea。Atcertainintervals，andbelowthisnaturalbasin，theeyewaspleasedandsurprisedbythesightofovalopeningsthroughwhichtheoutwardwavescamethunderinginvolleysoffoam。Somebanksofbasalt，tornfromtheirfasteningsbythefuryofthewaves，layscatteredonthegroundliketheruinsofanancienttemple-ruinseternallyyoung，overwhichthestormsofagessweptwithoutproducinganyperceptibleeffect!

Thiswasthelaststageofourjourney。Hanshadbroughtusalongwithfidelityandintelligence，andIbegantofeelsomewhatmorecomfortablewhenIreflectedthathewastoaccompanyusstillfartheronourway。

WhenwehaltedbeforethehouseoftheRector，asmallandincommodiouscabin，neitherhandsomenormorecomfortablethanthoseofhisneighbors，Isawamanintheactofshoeingahorse，ahammerinhishand，andaleathernaprontiedroundhiswaist。

"Behappy，"saidtheeider-downhunter，usinghisnationalsalutationinhisownlanguage。

"Goddag-goodday!"repliedtheformer，inexcellentDanish。

"Kyrkoherde，"criedHans，turningroundandintroducinghimtomyuncle。

half-vaultedroofabovethesea。Atcertainintervals，andbelowthisnaturalbasin，theeyewaspleasedandsurprisedbythesightofovalopeningsthroughwhichtheoutwardwavescamethunderinginvolleysoffoam。Somebanksofbasalt，tornfromtheirfasteningsbythefuryofthewaves，layscatteredonthegroundliketheruinsofanancienttemple-ruinseternallyyoung，overwhichthestormsofagessweptwithoutproducinganyperceptibleeffect!

Thiswasthelaststageofourjourney。Hanshadbroughtusalongwithfidelityandintelligence，andIbegantofeelsomewhatmorecomfortablewhenIreflectedthathewastoaccompanyusstillfartheronourway。

WhenwehaltedbeforethehouseoftheRector，asmallandincommodiouscabin，neitherhandsomenormorecomfortablethanthoseofhisneighbors，Isawamanintheactofshoeingahorse，ahammerinhishand，andaleathernaprontiedroundhiswaist。

"Behappy，"saidtheeider-downhunter，usinghisnationalsalutationinhisownlanguage。

"Goddag-goodday!"repliedtheformer，inexcellentDanish。

"Kyrkoherde，"criedHans，turningroundandintroducinghimtomyuncle。

"TheRector，"repeatedtheworthyProfessor；"itappears，mydearHarry，thatthisworthymanistheRector，andisnotabovedoinghisownwork。"

DuringthespeakingofthesewordstheguideintimatedtotheKyrkoherdewhatwasthetruestateofthecase。Thegoodman，ceasingfromhisoccupation，gaveakindofhalloo，uponwhichatallwoman，almostagiantess，cameoutofthehut。Shewasatleastsixfeethigh，whichinthatregionissomethingconsiderable。

Myfirstimpressionwasoneofhorror。IthoughtshehadcometogiveustheIcelandickiss。Ihad，however，nothingtofear，forshedidnotevenshowmuchinclinationtoreceiveusintoherhouse。

Theroomdevotedtostrangersappearedtometobebyfartheworstinthepresbytery；itwasnarrow，dirtyandoffensive。Therewas，however，nochoiceaboutthematter。TheRectorhadnonotionofpracticingtheusualcordialandantiquehospitality。Farfromit。Beforethedaywasover，Ifoundwehadtodealwithablacksmith，afisherman，ahunter，acarpenter，anythingbutaclergyman。Itmustbesaidinhisfavorthatwehadcaughthimonaweekday；

probablyheappearedtogreateradvantageontheSunday。

ThesepoorpriestsreceivefromtheDanishGovernmentamostridiculouslyinadequatesalary，andcollectonequarterofthetitheoftheirparish-notmorethansixtymarkscurrent，oraboutL310s。

sterling。Hencethenecessityofworkingtolive。Intruth，wesoonfoundthatourhostdidnotcountcivilityamongthecardinalvirtues。

Myunclesoonbecameawareofthekindofmanhehadtodealwith。

Insteadofaworthyandlearnedscholar，hefoundadullill-manneredpeasant。Hethereforeresolvedtostartonhisgreatexpeditionassoonaspossible。Hedidnotcareaboutfatigue，andresolvedtospendafewdaysinthemountains。

ThepreparationsforourdepartureweremadetheverynextdayafterourarrivalatStapi；HansnowhiredthreeIcelanderstotaketheplaceofthehorses-whichcouldnolongercarryourluggage。When，however，theseworthyislandershadreachedthebottomofthecrater，theyweretogobackandleaveustoourselves。Thispointwassettledbeforetheywouldagreetostart。

Onthisoccasion，myunclepartlyconfidedinHans，theeider-duckhunter，andgavehimtounderstandthatitwashisintentiontocontinuehisexplorationofthevolcanotothelastpossiblelimits。

Hanslistenedcalmly，andthennoddedhishead。Togothere，orelsewhere，toburyhimselfinthebowelsoftheearth，ortotraveloveritssummits，wasallthesametohim!Asforme，amusedandoccupiedbytheincidentsoftravel，Ihadbeguntoforgettheinevitablefuture；butnowIwasoncemoredestinedtorealizetheactualstateofaffairs。Whatwastobedone?Runaway?ButifI

reallyhadintendedtoleaveProfessorHardwiggtohisfate，itshouldhavebeenatHamburgandnotatthefootofSneffels。

Oneidea，aboveallothers，begantotroubleme:averyterribleidea，andonecalculatedtoshakethenervesofamanevenlesssensitivethanmyself。

"Letusconsiderthematter，"Isaidtomyself；"wearegoingtoascendtheSneffelsmountain。Wellandgood。Weareabouttopayavisittotheverybottomofthecrater。Good，still。Othershavedoneitanddidnotperishfromthatcourse。

"That，however，isnotthewholemattertobeconsidered。IfaroaddoesreallypresentitselfbywhichtodescendintothedarkandsubterraneousbowelsofMotherEarth，ifthisthriceunhappySaknussemmhasreallytoldthetruth，weshallbemostcertainlylostinthemidstofthelabyrinthofsubterraneousgalleriesofthevolcano。Now，wehavenoevidencetoprovethatSneffelsisreallyextinct。Whatproofhavewethataneruptionisnotshortlyabouttotakeplace?Becausethemonsterhassleptsoundlysince1219，doesitfollowthatheisnevertowake?

"Ifhedoeswakewhatistobecomeofus?"

Thesewerequestionsworththinkingabout，anduponthemIreflectedlonganddeeply。Icouldnotliedowninsearchofsleepwithoutdreamingoferuptions。ThemoreIthought，themoreIobjectedtobereducedtothestateofdrossandashes。

Icouldstanditnolonger；soIdeterminedatlasttosubmitthewholecasetomyuncle，inthemostadroitmannerpossible，andundertheformofsometotallyirreconcilablehypothesis。

Isoughthim。Ilaidbeforehimmyfears，andthendrewbackinordertolethimgethispassionoverathisease。

"Ihavebeenthinkingaboutthematter，"hesaid，inthequietesttoneintheworld。

Whatdidhemean?Washeatlastabouttolistentothevoiceofreason?Didhethinkofsuspendinghisprojects?Itwasalmosttoomuchhappinesstobetrue。

Ihowevermadenoremark。Infact，Iwasonlytooanxiousnottointerrupthim，andallowedhimtoreflectathisleisure。Aftersomemomentshespokeout。

"Ihavebeenthinkingaboutthematter，"heresumed。"EversincewehavebeenatStapi，mymindhasbeenalmostsolelyoccupiedwiththegravequestionwhichhasbeensubmittedtomebyyourself-fornothingwouldbeunwiserandmoreinconsistentthantoactwithimprudence。"

"Iheartilyagreewithyou，mydearuncle，"wasmysomewhathopefulrejoinder。

"ItisnowsixhundredyearssinceSneffelshasspoken，butthoughnowreducedtoastateofuttersilence，hemayspeakagain。Newvolcaniceruptionsarealwaysprecededbyperfectlywell-knownphenomena。Ihavecloselyexaminedtheinhabitantsofthisregion；I

havecarefullystudiedthesoil，andIbegtotellyouemphatically，mydearHarry，therewillbenoeruptionatpresent。"

AsIlistenedtohispositiveaffirmations，Iwasstupefiedandcouldsaynothing。

"Iseeyoudoubtmyword，"saidmyuncle；"followme。"

Iobeyedmechanically。

Leavingthepresbytery，theProfessortookaroadthroughanopeninginthebasalticrock，whichledfarawayfromthesea。Weweresooninopencountry，ifwecouldgivesuchanametoaplaceallcoveredwithvolcanicdeposits。Thewholelandseemedcrushedundertheweightofenormousstones-oftrap，ofbasalt，ofgranite，oflava，andofallothervolcanicsubstances。

Icouldseemanyspoutsofsteamrisingintheair。Thesewhitevapors，calledintheIcelandiclanguage"reykir，"comefromhotwaterfountains，andindicatebytheirviolencethevolcanicactivityofthesoil。Nowthesightoftheseappearedtojustifymyapprehension。I

was，therefore，allthemoresurprisedandmortifiedwhenmyunclethusaddressedme。

"Youseeallthissmoke，Harry，myboy?"

"Yes，sir。"

"Well，aslongasyouseethemthus，youhavenothingtofearfromthevolcano。"

"Howcanthatbe?"

"Becarefultorememberthis，"continuedtheProfessor。"Attheapproachofaneruptionthesespoutsofvaporredoubletheiractivity-

todisappearaltogetherduringtheperiodofvolcaniceruption；fortheelasticfluids，nolongerhavingthenecessarytension，seekrefugeintheinteriorofthecrater，insteadofescapingthroughthefissuresoftheearth。If，then，thesteamremainsinitsnormalorhabitualstate，iftheirenergydoesnotincrease，andifyouaddtothis，theremarkthatthewindisnotreplacedbyheavyatmosphericpressureanddeadcalm，youmaybequitesurethatthereisnofearofanyimmediateeruption。"

"But-"

"Enough，myboy。Whensciencehassentforthherfiat-itisonlytohearandobey。"

Icamebacktothehousequitedowncastanddisappointed。Myunclehadcompletelydefeatedmewithhisscientificarguments。

Nevertheless，Ihadstillonehope，andthatwas，whenoncewewereatthebottomofthecrater，thatitwouldbeimpossibleindefaultofagalleryortunnel，todescendanydeeper；andthis，despiteallthelearnedSaknussemmsintheworld。

Ipassedthewholeofthefollowingnightwithanightmareonmychest!and，afterunheard-ofmiseriesandtortures，foundmyselfintheverydepthsoftheearth，fromwhichIwassuddenlylaunchedintoplanetaryspace，undertheformofaneruptiverock!

Nextday，June23d，Hanscalmlyawaitedusoutsidethepresbyterywithhisthreecompanionsloadedwithprovisions，tools，andinstruments。Twoiron-shodpoles，twoguns，andtwolargegamebags，werereservedformyuncleandmyself。Hans，whowasamanwhoneverforgoteventheminutestprecautions，hadaddedtoourbaggagealargeskinfullofwater，asanadditiontoourgourds。Thisassureduswaterforeightdays。

Itwasnineo"clockinthemorningwhenwewerequiteready。Therectorandhishugewifeorservant，Ineverknewwhich，stoodatthedoortoseeusoff。TheyappearedtobeabouttoinflictonustheusualfinalkissoftheIcelanders。Tooursupremeastonishmenttheiradieutooktheshapeofaformidablebill，inwhichtheyevencountedtheuseofthepastoralhouse，reallyandtrulythemostabominableanddirtyplaceIeverwasin。TheworthycouplecheatedandrobbeduslikeaSwissinnkeeper，andmadeusfeel，bythesumwehadtopay，thesplendorsoftheirhospitality。

Myuncle，however，paidwithoutbargaining。AmanwhohadmadeuphismindtoundertakeavoyageintotheInterioroftheEarth，isnotthemantohaggleoverafewmiserablerix-dollars。

Thisimportantmattersettled，Hansgavethesignalfordeparture，andsomefewmomentslaterwehadleftStapi。

CHAPTER12

TheAscentofMountSneffelsTHEhugevolcanowhichwasthefirststageofourdaringexperimentisabovefivethousandfeethigh。Sneffelsistheterminationofalongrangeofvolcanicmountains，ofadifferentcharactertothesystemoftheislanditself。Oneofitspeculiaritiesisitstwohugepointedsummits。Fromwhencewestarteditwasimpossibletomakeouttherealoutlinesofthepeakagainstthegreyfieldofsky。Allwecoulddistinguishwasavastdomeofwhite，whichfelldownwardsfromtheheadofthegiant。

Thecommencementofthegreatundertakingfilledmewithawe。Nowthatwehadactuallystarted，Ibegantobelieveintherealityoftheundertaking!

Ourpartyformedquiteaprocession。Wewalkedinsinglefile，precededbyHans，theimperturbableeider-duckhunter。Hecalmlyledusbynarrowpathswheretwopersonscouldbynopossibilitywalkabreast。Conversationwaswhollyimpossible。Wehadallthemoreopportunitytoreflectandadmiretheawfulgrandeurofthescenearound。

BeyondtheextraordinarybasalticwallofthefjordofStapiwefoundourselvesmakingourwaythroughfibrousturf，overwhichgrewascantyvegetationofgrass，theresiduumoftheancientvegetationoftheswampypeninsula。Thevastmassofthiscombustible，thefieldofwhichasyetisutterlyunexplored，wouldsufficetowarmIcelandforawholecentury。Thismightyturfpit，measuredfromthebottomofcertainravines，isoftennotlessthanseventyfeetdeep，andpresentstotheeyetheviewofsuccessivelayersofblackburned-uprockydetritus，separatedbythinstreaksofporoussandstone。

Thegrandeurofthespectaclewasundoubted，aswellasitsaridanddesertedair。

AsatruenephewofthegreatProfessorHardwigg，anddespitemypreoccupationanddolefulfearsofwhatwastocome，Iobservedwithgreatinterestthevastcollectionofmineralogicalcuriositiesspreadoutbeforemeinthisvastmuseumofnaturalhistory。Lookingbacktomyrecentstudies，IwentoverinthoughtthewholegeologicalhistoryofIceland。

Thisextraordinaryandcuriousislandmusthavemadeitsappearancefromoutofthegreatworldofwatersatacomparativelyrecentdate。LikethecoralislandsofthePacific，itmay，foraughtweknow，bestillrisingbyslowandimperceptibledegrees。

Ifthisreallybethecase，itsorigincanbeattributedtoonlyonecause-thatofthecontinuedactionofsubterraneanfires。

Thiswasahappythought。

Ifso，ifthisweretrue，awaywiththetheoriesofSirHumphryDavy；awaywiththeauthorityoftheparchmentofArneSaknussemm；thewonderfulpretensionstodiscoveryonthepartofmyuncle-andtoourjourney!

Allmustendinsmoke。

Charmedwiththeidea，Ibeganmorecarefullytolookaboutme。A

seriousstudyofthesoilwasnecessarytonegativeorconfirmmyhypothesis。ItookineveryitemofwhatIsaw，andIbegantocomprehendthesuccessionofphenomenawhichhadprecededitsformation。

Iceland，beingabsolutelywithoutsedimentarysoil，iscomposedexclusivelyofvolcanictufa；thatistosay，ofanagglomerationofstonesandofrocksofaporoustexture。Longbeforetheexistenceofvolcanoes，itwascomposedofasolidbodyofmassivetraprockliftedbodilyandslowlyoutofthesea，bytheactionofthecentrifugalforceatworkintheearth。

Theinternalfires，however，hadnotasyetbursttheirboundsandfloodedtheexteriorcakeofMotherEarthwithhotandraginglava。

Myreadersmustexcusethisbriefandsomewhatpedanticgeologicallecture。Butitisnecessarytothecompleteunderstandingofwhatfollows。

Atalaterperiodintheworld"shistory，ahugeandmightyfissuremust，reasoningbyanalogy，havebeendugdiagonallyfromthesouthwesttothenortheastoftheisland，throughwhichbydegreesflowedthevolcaniccrust。Thegreatandwondrousphenomenonthenwentonwithoutviolence-theoutpouringwasenormous，andtheseethingfusedmatter，ejectedfromthebowelsoftheearth，spreadslowlyandpeacefullyintheformofvastlevelplains，orwhatarecalledmamelonsormounds。

Itwasatthisepochthattherockscalledfeldspars，syenites，andporphyriesappeared。

Butasanaturalconsequenceofthisoverflow，thedepthoftheislandincreased。Itcanreadilybebelievedwhatanenormousquantityofelasticfluidswerepiledupwithinitscenter，whenatlastitaffordednootheropenings，aftertheprocessofcoolingthecrusthadtakenplace。

Atlengthatimecamewhendespitetheenormousthicknessandweightoftheuppercrust，themechanicalforcesofthecombustiblegasesbelowbecamesogreat，thattheyactuallyupheavedtheweightybackandmadeforthemselveshugeandgiganticshafts。Hencethevolcanoeswhichsuddenlyarosethroughtheuppercrust，andnextthecraters，whichburstforthatthesummitofthesenewcreations。

Itwillbeseenthatthefirstphenomenainconnectionwiththeformationoftheislandweresimplyeruptive；tothese，however，shortlysucceededthevolcanicphenomena。

Throughthenewlyformedopenings，escapedthemarvelousmassofbasalticstoneswithwhichtheplainwewerenowcrossingwascovered。

Weweretramplingourwayoverheavyrocksofdarkgreycolor，which，whilecooling，hadbeenmouldedintosix-sidedprisms。Inthe"backdistance"wecouldseeanumberofflattenedcones，whichformerlyweresomanyfire-vomitingmouths。

Afterthebasalticeruptionwasappeasedandsetatrest，thevolcano，theforceofwhichincreasedwiththatoftheextinctcraters，gavefreepassagetothefieryoverflowoflava，andtothemassofcindersandpumicestone，nowscatteredoverthesidesofthemountain，likedisheveledhairontheshouldersofaBacchante。

Here，inanutshell，IhadthewholehistoryofthephenomenafromwhichIcelandarose。Alltaketheirriseinthefierceactionofinteriorfires，andtobelievethatthecentralmassdidnotremaininastateofliquidfire，whitehot，wassimplyandpurelymadness。

Thisbeingsatisfactorilyproved(Q。E。D。)，whatinsensatefollytopretendtopenetrateintotheinteriorofthemightyearth!

Thismentallecturedeliveredtomyselfwhileproceedingonajourney，didmegood。Iwasquitereassuredastothefateofourenterprise；andthereforewent，likeabravesoldiermountingabristlingbattery，totheassaultofoldSneffels。

Asweadvanced，theroadbecameeverymomentmoredifficult。Thesoilwasbrokenanddangerous。Therocksbrokeandgavewayunderourfeet，andwehadtobescrupulouslycarefulinordertoavoiddangerousandconstantfalls。

HansadvancedascalmlyasifhehadbeenwalkingoverSalisburyPlain；sometimeshewoulddisappearbehindhugeblocksofstone，andwemomentarilylostsightofhim。Therewasalittleperiodofanxietyandthentherewasashrillwhistle，justtotelluswheretolookforhim。

Occasionallyhewouldtakeitintohisheadtostoptopickuplumpsofrock，andsilentlypilethemupintosmallheaps，inorderthatwemightnotloseourwayonourreturn。

Hehadnoideaofthejourneywewereabouttoundertake。

Atallevents，theprecautionwasagoodone；thoughhowutterlyuselessandunnecessary-butImustnotanticipate。

Threehoursofterriblefatigue，walkingincessantly，hadonlybroughtustothefootofthegreatmountain。Thiswillgivesomenotionofwhatwehadstilltoundergo。

Suddenly，however，Hanscriedahalt-thatis，hemadesignstothateffect-andasummarykindofbreakfastwaslaidoutonthelavabeforeus。Myuncle，whonowwassimplyProfessorHardwigg，wassoeagertoadvance，thatheboltedhisfoodlikeagreedyclown。Thishaltforrefreshmentwasalsoahaltforrepose。TheProfessorwasthereforecompelledtowaitthegoodpleasureofhisimperturbableguide，whodidnotgivethesignalfordepartureforagoodhour。

ThethreeIcelanders，whowereastaciturnastheircomrade，didnotsayaword；butwentoneatinganddrinkingveryquietlyandsoberly。

Fromthis，ourfirstrealstage，webegantoascendtheslopesoftheSneffelsvolcano。Itsmagnificentsnowynightcap，aswebegantocallit，byanopticaldelusionverycommoninmountains，appearedtometobecloseathand；andyethowmanylongwearyhoursmustelapsebeforewereacheditssummit。Whatunheard-offatiguemustweendure!

Thestonesonthemountainside，heldtogetherbynocementofsoil，boundtogetherbynorootsorcreepingherbs，gavewaycontinuallyunderourfeet，andwentrushingbelowintotheplains，likeaseriesofsmallavalanches。

Incertainplacesthesidesofthisstupendousmountainwereatananglesosteepthatitwasimpossibletoclimbupwards，andwewerecompelledtogetroundtheseobstaclesasbestwemight。

ThosewhounderstandAlpineclimbingwillcomprehendourdifficulties。Oftenwewereobligedtohelpeachotheralongbymeansofourclimbingpoles。

Imustsaythisformyuncle，thathestuckasclosetomeaspossible。Heneverlostsightofme，andonmanyoccasionshisarmsuppliedmewithfirmandsolidsupport。Hewasstrong，wiry，andapparentlyinsensibletofatigue。Anothergreatadvantagewithhimwasthathehadtheinnatesentimentofequilibrium-forheneverslippedorfailedinhissteps。TheIcelanders，thoughheavilyloaded，climbedwiththeagilityofmountaineers。

Lookingup，everynowandthen，attheheightofthegreatvolcanoofSneffels，itappearedtomewhollyimpossibletoreachtothesummitonthatside；atallevents，iftheangleofinclinationdidnotspeedilychange。

Fortunately，afteranhourofunheard-offatigues，andofgymnasticexercisesthatwouldhavebeentryingtoanacrobat，wecametoavastfieldofice，whichwhollysurroundedthebottomoftheconeofthevolcano。Thenativescalleditthetablecloth，probablyfromsomesuchreasonasthedwellersintheCapeofGoodHopecalltheirmountainTableMountain，andtheirroadsTableBay。

Here，toourmutualsurprise，wefoundanactualflightofstonesteps，whichwonderfullyassistedourascent。Thissingularflightofstairswas，likeeverythingelse，volcanic。Ithadbeenformedbyoneofthosetorrentsofstonescastupbytheeruptions，andofwhichtheIcelandicnameisstina。Ifthissingulartorrenthadnotbeencheckedinitsdescentbythepeculiarshapeoftheflanksofthemountain，itwouldhavesweptintothesea，andwouldhaveformednewislands。

Suchasitwas，itservedusadmirably。Theabruptcharacteroftheslopesmomentarilyincreased，buttheseremarkablestonesteps，alittlelessdifficultthanthoseoftheEgyptianpyramids，weretheonesimplenaturalmeansbywhichwewereenabledtoproceed。

Aboutsevenintheeveningofthatday，afterhavingclambereduptwothousandoftheseroughsteps，wefoundourselvesoverlookingakindofspurorprojectionofthemountain-asortofbuttressuponwhichtheconelikecrater，properlysocalled，leanedforsupport。

Theoceanlaybeneathusatadepthofmorethanthreethousandtwohundredfeet-agrandandmightyspectacle。Wehadreachedtheregionofeternalsnows。