第8章

Thetravellersconsultedtheresidentsintheirpurchasesofcopiesoftheoldmasters，fortherewerefashionsintheseluxuriesasineverythingelse。Therewasarunatthattimeonthe"MadonnaintheChair；"and"BeatriceCenci"waslongprimefavorite。

Thousandsofthelatterleeringandwinkingoverhereverlastingshoulder，weresolemnlysenthomeeachyear。Nooneeverdreamedofbuyinganoriginalpainting!Thetouristsalsodevelopedatasteforlargemarblestatues，"Nydia，theBlindGirlofPompeii"

(peoplereadBulwer，ByronandtheBiblethen)beinginsuchdemandthatIknewoneblockinlowerFifthAvenuethatpossessedsevenblindNydias，alllife-size，inwhitemarble，-aformofdecorationaboutaswelladaptedtothosescantyfrontparlorsasasteamengineoracarriageandpairwouldhavebeen。IfearBulwer"sheroineisatadiscountnow，andoftenwonderasIseethoseoldresidencesturningintoshops，whathasbecomeofthesevenwhiteelephantsandalltheirbrothersandsistersthatourinnocentparentsbroughtsoproudlybackfromItaly!Ihavesucceededinlocatingtwostatuesevidentlyimportedatthattime。

Theygracethebackstepsofarathershabbyvillainthecountry，-DemosthenesandCicero，largerthanlife，dreary，funerealmemorialsofthefolliesofourfathers。

Thesimpledayswehavebeenspeakingofdidnot，however，outlastthecirclethatinauguratedthem。About1867afewrichNewYorkersbegan"tryingtoknowtheItalians"andgoaboutwiththem。

Onefamily，"uptosnuff"inmoresensesthanone，marriedtheirdaughtertothescionofaprincelyhouse，andimmediatelyalargenumberofhercompatriotswerebittenwiththemadnessofgoingintoItaliansociety。

In1870，RomebecamethecapitalofunitedItaly。Thecourtremovedthere。The"improvements"began。Wholequarterswereremodelled，andthedearoldRomeofotherdays，theRomeofHawthorneandMadamedeStael，wassweptaway。WiththisnewstateofthingscameanumberofAmerico-Italianmarriagesmoreorlesssuccessful；andanythinglikeanAmericansociety，properlyso-

called，disappeared。To-dayfamiliesofourcompatriotspassingthewintermonthsinRomeareeithertouristswholiveinhotels，andseesights，orgo(asfarastheycan)intoItaliansociety。

TheQueenofItaly，whospeaksexcellentEnglish，developedaPENCHANTforAmericans，andhasattachedseveralwhomarriedItalianstoherpersonindifferentcourtcapacities；indeed，theold"Black"society，whohaveremainedtruetothePope，whentheywishtoridiculethenew"White"orroyalcircle，callitthe"Americancourt!"Thefeelingisbitterstillbetweenthe"Blacks"

and"Whites，"andanAmericangirlwhomarriesintooneofthesecirclesmustmakeuphermindtoseenothingoffriendsorrelativesintheoppositionranks。Itissaidthatanamalgamationisbeingbroughtabout，butitisslowwork；agenerationwillhavetodieoutbeforemuchrealminglingofthetwocourtswilltakeplace。Asboththesecirclesarepoor，verylittleentertainmentgoeson。Oneseesalittlelifeinthediplomaticworld，andtheKingandQueengiveaballortwoduringthewinter，butsincetherepeateddefeatsoftheItalianarmsinAfrica，andtheheavyfinancialdifficulties(thingsthesesovereignstakeveryseriouslytoheart)，therehasnotbeenmuch"go"inthecourtentertainments。

TheyoungsethopegreatthingsofthenewPrincessofNaples，thebrideoftheheir-apparent，aladywhoiscreditedwithbeingfulloffunandlife；itisfondlyimaginedthatshewillsettheballrollingagain。Bythebye，herfirstlady-in-waiting，theyoungDuchessdelMonteofNaples，wasanAmericangirl，andaveryprettyone，too。SheenjoyedforsometimetheenviabledistinctionofbeingtheyoungestandhandsomestduchessinEurope，untilMissVanderbiltmarriedMarlboroughandtooktherecordfromher。ThePrinceandPrincessofNaplesliveattheirNeapolitancapital，andwillnotdomuchtohelpthingsinRome。Besideswhichheisverydelicateandpassesfornotbeinganytoofondoftheworld。

Whatmakesthingsworseisthatthegreatnoblesaremostly"landpoor，"andeventhericheronesburnedtheirfingersinthecrazeforspeculationthatturnedallRomeupsidedownintheyearsfollowing1870andItalianunity，whentheynaivelyimaginedtheirnewcapitalwastobecomeagainafterseventeencenturiesthemetropolisoftheworld。Wholequartersofnewhouseswererunupforapopulationthatfailedtoappear；thesehousesnowstandemptyandarefastgoingtoruin。Sothatlittleinthewayofentertainingistobeexpectedfromthebankrupts。Theyareagenialrace，theseItaliannobles，andwelcomerichstrangersandmarrythemwithmuchenthusiasm-justashadetoomuch，perhaps-

thegirlcountingforsolittleandherDOTforsomuchinthematrimonialscale。Itisonlynecessarytokeepopenhousetohavethepickoftheyoungeronesasyourguests。TheywillcometoentertainmentsatAmericanhousesandbringalltheirrelations，anddance，anddine，andflirtwithgreatgoodhumorandpersistency；butifthereisnotagoodsolidfortuneinthebackground，inthebestofsecurities，theprettiestAmericansmilesnevertemptthembeyondflirtation；theseasonover，theydisappearupintotheirmountainvillastowaitforanewimportationfromtheStates。

InRome，aswellasintheotherItaliancities，thereare，ofcourse，stilltobefoundAmericansinsomenumbers(whereontheContinentwillyounotfindthem？)，livingquietlyforstudyoreconomy。Buttheyarenotnumerousorunitedenoughtoformasociety；andareapttobeinvolvedinbitterstrifeamongthemselves。

Why，youask，shouldAmericansquarrelamongthemselves？

SomeyearsagoIwaspassingthesummermonthsontheRhineatatinyGermanwatering-place，principallyfrequentedbyEnglish，whowerealllivingtogetheringreatpeaceandharmony，untilonefatalday，whenanEarlappeared。HewasapoorIrishEarl，verysimpleandunoffending，buthebroughtwarintothattown，heart-

burnings，envy，andbackbiting。TheEnglishcolonyatoncedivideditselfintotwocamps，thosewhoknewtheEarlandthosewhodidnot。Andpeacefledfromourlittlesociety。YouwillfindineveryforeigncapitalamongtheresidentAmericans，justsuchastateofaffairsasconvulsedthatGermanspa。Thenative"swells"

havecometobetheappleofdiscordthatdividesourgoodpeopleamongthemselves。Thosewhohavebeensuccessfulinknowingtheforeignersavoidtheircompatriotsandlivewiththeirnewfriends，whiletheothergroupwho，fromlaziness，disinclination，orprinciple(？)haveremainedtruetotheirAmericancircle，cannotresistcallingtheotherssnobs，andlaughing(abitenviously，perhaps)attheirupwardstruggles。

ItisthesameinFlorence。ThelittletherewasleftofanAmericansocietywenttopiecesonthatrock。Ourparentsfortyyearsagoseemtometohavebeenmuchmoreself-respectingandsensible。TheyknewperfectlywellthattherewasnothingincommonbetweenthemselvesandtheItaliannobility，andthatthosegoodpeoplewerenotgoingtoputthemselvesouttomaketheacquaintanceofalotofstrangers，mostlyofanotherreligion，unlessitwastobemateriallytotheiradvantage。Sotheyleftthemquietlyalone。Idonotpretendtojudgeanyone"smotives，butconfessIcannothelpregardingwithsuspicionaforeignerwholeaveshisowncircletominglewithstrangers。Itresemblestoocloselytheamiabilitiesofthewolfforthelamb，orthesuddenpolitenessofaschool-boytoalittlegirlwhohasreceivedaboxofcandies。

CHAPTER37-TheNewportofthePastFEWofthe"carriageladiesandgentlemen"whodisportthemselvesinNewportduringthesummermonths，yachtinganddancingthroughtheshortseason，thenflittingawaytofreshfieldsandpasturesnew，realizethattheirdaintilyshodfeethavebeentreadinghistoricground，orcaretocastathoughtbacktothepast。Oddlyenough，tothemajorityofpeoplethepastisavolumerarelyopened。Notthatitboresthemtoreadit，butbecausethey，likechildren，wantsomeonetoturnoveritsyellowleavesandpointoutthepicturestothem。FewofthehumanmotesthatdanceintheraysoftheafternoonsunastheyslantacrossthelittlePark，thinkofthefablewhichassertsthatasea-wornbandofadventurousmen，centuriesbeforetheCabotsortheGenoesediscovererthoughtofcrossingtheAtlantic，hadpushedbravelyoutoveruntriedseasandlandedonthisrockycoast。Yetoneapparentevidenceoftheirstaytemptsourthoughtsbacktothetimeswhenitissaidtohavebeenbuiltasabowerforaking"sdaughter。

Longfellow，intheswingingverseofhis"SkeletoninArmor，"

breathingoftheseaandtheNorseman"sfatallove，hasthrownsuchaglamourofpoetryaroundthetower，thatonewouldfainbelieveallherelates。ThehardyNorsemen，iftheyevercamehere，succumbedintheirstrugglewiththenativetribes，or，discouragedbydeathandhardships，sailedaway，leavingthecloudsofobliviontocloseagaindarklyaroundthiscontinent，andthefogofdiscussiontocirclearoundthe"OldMill。"

Thelittlesettlementofanotherrace，speakinganothertongue，thatcenturieslatersprangupintheshadowofthetower，quicklygrewintoabusyandprosperouscity，which，likeNewYork，itsrival，wascapturedandheldbytheEnglish。Towalknowthroughsomeofitsquaint，narrowstreetsistostepbackintoRevolutionarydays。HardlyahousehaschangedsincethetimewhentheredcoatsoftheBritishofficersbrightenedtheprimperspectives，andturnedloyalyoungheadsastheypassed。

AtthecornerofSpringandPelhamStreets，stillstandstheresidenceofGeneralPrescott，whowascarriedawayprisonerbyhisopponents，theyhavingroweddowninwhale-boatsfromProvidencefortheattack。Rochambeau，ourFrenchally，lodgedlowerdowninMaryStreet。InthetowerofTrinity，onecanreadtheepitaphoftheunfortunateChevalierdeTernay，commanderoftheseaforces，whosebodyliesnearby。Manyyearslaterhisrelative，theDucdeNoailles，whenMinistertothiscountry，hadthissimpletabletrepairedandmadeavisittothespot。

AlongperiodofprosperityfollowedtheRevolution，duringwhichNewportgrewandflourished。OurpiousandGod-fearing"forbears，"

havingsecuredpersonalandreligiousliberty，proceededtoinaugurateamostsuccessfulandremunerativetradeinrumandslaves。Itwasatriangulartransactionandyieldedathree-foldprofit。Thesimplepopulationofthatday，numberinglessthantenthousandsouls，possessedtwentydistilleries；findingitaphysicalimpossibilitytodrinkALLtherum，theyconceivedthehappythoughtofsendingthesurplusacrosstothecoastofAfrica，whereitappearstohavebeenmuchappreciatedbythenativechiefs，whoeagerlyexchangedthepickoftheirloyalsubjectsforthatliquid。ThesepoorbrutesweretakentotheWestIndiesandexchangedforsugar，ladenwithwhich，thevesselsreturnedtoNewport。

Havingintroducedtheduskychieftainstothecharmsofdeliriumtremensandtheirsubjectstolife-longslavery，onecanalmostseethesepiousdeaconsproceedingtochurchtoofferupthanksforthereturnoftheirsuccessfulvessels。Alas!even"thebestlaidschemesofmiceandmen"cometoanend。TheWarof1812，theopeningoftheErieCanalandsundryrailwaysstruckablowatNewportcommerce，fromwhichitneverrecovered。Thecitysankintooblivion，andforoverthirtyyearsnotahousewasbuiltthere。

Itwasnotuntilnear1840thattheMiddletonsandIzzardsandotherwealthyandaristocraticSouthernfamiliesweretemptedtoNewportbytheclimateandthefacilitiesitofferedforbathing，shootingandboating。Aboarding-houseortwosufficedforthemodestwantsofthenew-comers，firstamongwhichstoodtheAquidneck，presidedoverbykindMrs。Murray。Itwasnotuntilsomeyearslater，whenNewYorkandBostonfamiliesbegantoappreciatetheplace，thatthefirsthotelswerebuilt，-theAtlanticonthesquarefacingtheoldmill，theBellevueandFillmoreonCatherineStreet，andfinallytheoriginalOceanHouse，destroyedbyfirein1845andrebuiltasweseeitto-day。Thecroakersoftheepochconsidereditmuchtoofaroutoftowntobesuccessful，foratitsdoortheopenfieldsbegan，agatethereseparatingthetownfromthecountryacrosswhichastraggling，half-maderoad，closedbyinnumerablegates，ledalongthecliffsandoutacrosswhatisnowtheOceanDrive。Theprincipalroadsatthattimeledinland；anyonewishingtodriveseawardhadtodescendeverytwoorthreeminutestoopenagate。Theyouthofthedaydiscoveredasourceofincomeinopeningandclosingtheseforpennies。

Fashionhaddecreedthatthecorrecthourfordancingwas11A。M。，andMATINEESDANSANTESwereregularlygivenatthehotels，ourgrandmothersappearinginDECOLLETEmuslinfrocksadornedwithbroadsashes，anddisportingthemselvesgaylyuntilthedinnerhour。Low-neckdressesweretherule，notonlyfortheseinformalentertainments，butasevery-daywearforyounggirls，-anoldladyonlytheotherdaytellingmeshehadneverworna"high-body"

untilafterhermarriage。Twoo"clockfoundallthebeautiesandbeauxdining。Howincredulouslytheywouldhavelaughedifanyonehadprophesiedthattheirgrandchildrenwouldprefereightforty-

fiveasadinnerhour!

TheopeningofBellevueAvenuemarkedanotherepochinthehistoryofNewport。AboutthattimeGovernorLawrenceboughtthewholeofOchrePointfarmforfourteenthousanddollars，andMr。deRhambuiltonthenewlyopenedroadthefirst"cottage，"whichstandsto-daymodestlybackfromtheavenueoppositePerryStreet。Ifhouseshavesouls，asHawthorneaverred，andcanrememberandcompare，whatcuriousthoughtsmustpassthroughtheoakenbrainofthissimpleconstructionasitseesitsmarbleneighborsrearingtheirvastfacadesamongtrees。Thetrees，too，areaninnovation，forwhenthedeRhamcottagewasbuiltandMrs。ClevelandopenedhernewhouseattheextremeendofRoughPoint(thesecondsummerresidenceintheplace)itisdoubtfulifasingletreebroketherockymonotonyofthelandscapefromtheOceanHousetoBateman"sPoint。

GovernorLawrence，havingsoldoneacreofhisOchrePointfarmtoMr。Pendletonforthepricehehimselfhadpaidforthewhole，proceededtobuildastonewallbetweenthetwopropertiesdowntothewater"sedge。ThepopulationofNewporthadbeenaccustomedtotaketheirSundayairingsandmoonlightramblesalong"thecliffs，"

andviewedthisobstructionoftheirfavoritewalkwithdismay。Sostrongwastheirfeelingthatwhenthewallwascompletedtheyoungmenofthetownrepairedthereinthenightandtoreitdown。Itwasrebuilt，themortarbeingmixedwithbrokenglass。Thisinfuriatedthepeopletosuchanextentthatthewholepopulace，inbroaddaylight，accompaniedbythesummervisitors，destroyedthewallandthrewthematerialsintothesea。Lawrence，bentonmaintainingwhatheconsideredhisrights，calledthelawtohisaid。Itwasthendiscoveredthatanimmemorialriverainrightgavethefishermenandthepublicgenerally，accesstotheshoreforfishing，andalsotocollectseaweed，-arightofwaythatnoonecouldobstruct。

Thiswasthebeginningofthelongstrugglebetweenthecliff-

dwellersandthetownspeople；eachnewproperty-owner，disgustedattheideathatalltheworldcanstrollatwillacrosshiswell-keptlawns，hasinturntriedhishandatsuppressingthenowfamous"walk。"Notonlydothepublicclaimthelibertytowalkthere，butalsotherighttocrossanypropertytogettotheshore。AtthismomentthecityfathersandthecommitteeofthenewbuildingsatBailey"sBeacharewranglingasgaylyasinGovernorLawrence"sdayoverabitofwalllatelyconstructedacrosstheendofBellevueAvenue。Anewexpedienthasbeenhituponbysomeofthewould-beexclusiveownersofthecliffs；theyhaveloweredthe"walk"outofsight，thusinsuringtheirownprivacyandinnowayinterferingwiththerightsofthepublic。

AmongthegentlemenwhosettledinNewportaboutGovernorLawrence"stimewasLordBaltimore(Mr。Calvert，hepreferredtocallhimself)，whoremainedthereuntilhisdeath。HewasshyofreferringtohisEnglishpeerage，butwouldwillinglytalkofhisdescentthroughhismotherfromPeterPaulRubens，fromwhomhadcomedowntohimachateauinHollandandseveralsplendidpaintings。Thelatterhungintheparlorofthemodestlittledwelling，whereIwastakentoseethemandtheirownermanyyearsago。Myintroduceronthisoccasionwasherselfaladyofnoordinarybirth，beingthedaughterofStuart，ourgreatestportraitpainter。Ihavepassedmanyquiethoursinthequaintstudio(thesameherfatherhadused)，hearingherprattle-asshelovedtodoifshefoundasympatheticlistener-ofherfather，ofWashingtonandhispompousways，andthemanycelebritieswhohadinturnposedbefore

Stuart"seasel。Shehadbeenherfather"scompanionandaid，presentatthesittings，preparinghisbrushesandcolors，andpaintinginbackgroundsandaccessories；andwouldwillinglyshowhispaletteandexplainhismethodsandtheoriesofcolor，hispredilectionforscrumblingshadowsthinlyinblackandthenpaintingboldlyinwithbodycolor。Herlessonshadnotprofitedmuchtothegentle，kindlyoldlady，fortheproductionsofherownbrushwerefarfromresemblinghergreatparent"swork。She，however，paintedcheerfullyontolife"sclose，surroundedbyhermanyfriends，foremostamongwhomwasCharlotteCushman，whoalsopassedthelastyearsofherlifeinNewport。MissStuartwasovereightywhenIlastsawher，stillfullofspiritandvigor，beginningtheportraitofafamousbeautyofthatday，sincethewifeandmotherofdukes。

MissStuart"sdeathseemstocloseoneofthechaptersinthehistoryofthiscity，andtobreakthelastconnectinglinkwithitspast。Theworldmovessoquicklythatthesimpledaysandmodestamusementsofourfathersandgrandfathershavealreadyrecededintomistyremoteness。Welookattheirportraitsandwondervaguelyattheirgracelesscostumes。Weknowtheytrodthesesamestreets，andlaughedandflirtedandmarriedaswearedoingto-day，buttheyseemtousstrangelyfaraway，likeinhabitantsofanothersphere!

Itishumiliatingtothinkhowsoonwe，too，shallhavebecometheancestorsofanewandcarelessgeneration；freshfaceswillreplaceourfadedones，youngvoiceswilllaughastheylookatourportraitshangingindarkcorners，wonderingwhowewere，and(criticisingtheapparelwethinksoartisticandappropriate)howwecouldeverhavemadesuchguysofourselves。

CHAPTER38-AConquestofEuropeTHEmostimportanteventinmodernhistoryisthediscoveryofEuropebytheAmericans。Beforeit，thepeoplesoftheOldWorldlivedhappyandcontentedintheirowncountries，practisingthepatriarchalvirtueshandeddowntothemfromgenerationsofforebears，ignoringalikethevicesandbenefitsofmoderncivilization，asunderstoodonthissideoftheAtlantic。Thesimple-mindedEuropeansremainedathome，satisfiedwiththerankinlifewheretheyhadbeenborn，andinnocentofthewaysofthenewworld。

Thesepeopleswere，onthewhole，notsomuchtobepitied，fortheyhadmanypleasingcraftsandartsunknowntotheinvaders，whichhadenabledthemtodecoratetheircapitalswithtasteinarudeway；nothingreallygreatliketheloftybuildingsandelevatedrailwaystructures，executedinAmericancities，butinterestingasshowingwhataningeniousrace，deprivedofthesecretsofmodernscience，couldaccomplish。

Themoreaestheticofthenewcomersevenaffectedtoadmiretheantiquatedplacesofworshipandresidencestheyvisitedabroad，pointingouttotheircompatriotsthatinmanycasesmarble，bronzeandotherold-fashionedmaterialshadbeensocleverlytreatedastolookalmostlikethesuperiorcast-ironemployedathome，andthatsomeoftheoldpaintings，preservedwithvenerationinthemuseums，hadnearlythebrilliancyofmodernchromos。Astheirauthorshad，however，neglectedtouseaprocesslendingitselftorapidreproduction，theywereofnopracticalvalue。Inotherways，thecontinentalraces，whendiscovered，weresadlybehindthetimes。Inbusiness，theyignoredtheuseof"corners，"thatbackboneofAmericantrade，andtheirideasofadvertisingwerebutlittleinadvanceofthoseknownamongtheancientGreeks。

ThediscoveryofEuropebytheAmericanswasmadeabout1850，atwhichdatethefirstbandsofadventurerscrossedtheseasinsearchofamusement。ThereportsthesepioneersbroughtbackoftheNAIVETE，politeness，andgullibilityofthenatives，andthecheapnessofexistenceintheircities，causedageneralexodusfromthewesterntotheeasternhemisphere。MostoftheAmericanswhohaduseduptheircreditathomeandthosewhoseincomeswereinsufficientfortheirwants，immediatelymigratedtothesehappyhuntinggrounds，wherelifewasinexpensiveandcreditunlimited。

Thefirstarrivalsenjoyedforsometwentyyearsuniqueopportunities。TheywereabletoliveinsplendorforapittancethatwouldbarelyhavekepttheminnecessariesontheirownsideoftheAtlantic，andtopickupvaluablespecimensofnativehandiworkfornominalsums。Inthosehappydays，tobelongtotheinvadingracewasasufficientpassporttothegoodgracesoftheEuropeans，whoaskednootherguaranteesbeforetradingwiththenewcomers，butflockedaroundthem，offeringtheirservicesandtheirprimitivemanufactures，convincedthatAmericanswereallwealthy。

Alas!Historyeverrepeatsitself。AsMexicansandPeruvians，afterreceivingtheirconquerorswithconfidenceandenthusiasm，cametoruethedaytheyhadopenedtheirarmstostrangers，sotheEuropeanpeoples，beforeaquarterofacenturywasover，realizedthatthehordesfromacrosstheseawhowereover-runningtheirlands，raisingprices，crowdingthenativestudentsoutoftheschools，andfinallyattemptingtoforceanentranceintosociety，hadlittletorecommendthemorjustifytheirpresenceexceptmoney。Eveninthissomeoftheintruderswereunsatisfactory。

Thosewhohadbeenreceivedintothe"bosom"ofhotelsoftenforgottosettlebeforedeparting。Thecontinentalwomenwhohadprovidedthewivesofdiscovererswiththeraimentofthecountry(aluxurygreatlyaffectedbythoseladies)found，totheirdisgust，thattheirnewcustomerswereoftenunableorunwillingtoofferanyremuneration。

Inconsequenceoftheseandmanyotherdisillusions，Americansbegantobecalledthe"Destroyers，"especiallywhenitbecameknownthatnothingwastooheavyortoobulkytobecarriedawaybytheinvaders，whotoretheinsidesfromthenativehouses，thepaintingsfromthewalls，thestatuesfromthetemples，andtransportedthisbootyacrosstheseas，muchinthesamewayastheRomanshadplunderedGreece。Elaboratefurnitureseemedespeciallytoattractthenewarrivals，whoacquiredvastquantitiesofit。

Here，however，thewilynatives(whowerebeginningtoappreciatetheirownbelongings)hadrevenge。Immensequantitiesofworthlessimitationsweresecretlymanufacturedandsoldtothetravellersatfabulousprices。Thesameartificewasusedwithpaintings，saidtobebygreatmasters，andwithimitationsofoldstuffsandbric-

a-brac，whichtheignorantandarrogantinvaderspretendedtoappreciateandcollect。

PrevioustoourarrivaltherehadbeenaninvasionoftheContinentbytheEnglishabouttheyear1812。Oneoftheirhistorians，calledThackeray，givesanamusingaccountofthisintheopeningchaptersofhis"ShabbyGenteelStory。"Thatevent，however，wasunimportantincomparisonwiththegreatAmericanmovement，althoughbothwerecharacterizedbythesametotaldisregardofthefeelingsandprejudicesofindigenouspopulations。TheEnglishthenwalkedaboutthecontinentalchurchesduringdivineservice，gazingatthepicturesandconsultingtheirguide-booksasunconcernedlyasourcompatriotsdoto-day。Theyalsocrowdedintotheatresandconcerthalls，andafterwardswrotetothenewspaperscomplainingofthebadatmosphereofthoseprimitiveestablishmentsandofthelongENTR"ACTES。

Aslongastheinvadersconfinedthemselvestosuchtrifles，thepatientforeignerssubmittedtotheiroverbearinganduncouthwaysbecauseofthesupposedbenefittotrade。Thenativesevenwentsofarastobuildhotelsfortheaccommodationanddelightoftheinvaders，abandoningwholequarterstotheirguests。

Therewas，however，apointatwhichcomplacencystopped。Theoldercivilizationshadformedamongthemselvesrestrictedandexclusivesocieties，towhichaccesswasalmostimpossibletostrangers。Thesesanctuariestemptedtheimmigrants，whoofferedtheirfairestvirginsandmuchtreasurefortheprivilegeofadmission。Theindigenousaristocrats，whoweremostlypoor，yieldedtotheseoffersandafewAmericanssucceededinforcinganentrance。Buttheoldnobilitysoonbecamefrightenedatthenumberandvulgarityoftheinvaders，andwithdrewseverelyintotheirshells，refusingtoacceptanyfurtherbribeseitherintheformoffemalesorfinance。

Fromthismomentdatesthehumiliationofthediscoverers。AlltheirbootyandplunderseemedworthlessincomparisonwiththeElysiandelightstheyimaginedwereconcealedbehindthecloseddoorsofthoseholyplaces，visionsofwhichtorturedthewomenfromthewesternhemisphereandpreventedtheirtakinganypleasureinothervictories。Tobereceivedintothoseinnercirclesbecametheirchiefambition。Withthisendinviewtheydressedthemselvesinexpensivecostumes，tookthetroubletolearnthe"lingo"spokeninthecountry，wenttotheextremityofcopyingthewaysofthenativewomenbypaintingtheirfaces，andinoneortwocasesimitatedthelaxityoftheirmorals。

Inspiteoftheseconcessions，ourwomenwerenotreceivedwithenthusiasm。Onthecontrary，theverynameofanAmericanbecameabywordandanabominationineverycontinentalcity。Thisprejudiceagainstusabroadishardlytobewonderedatonreflectingwhatwehavedonetoacquireit。Theagentschosenbyourgovernmenttotreatdiplomaticallywiththeconquerednations，owetheirselectiontopoliticalmotivesratherthantotheirtactorfitness。InthelargemajorityofcasesmenaresentoverwhoknowlittleeitherofthehabitsorlanguagesprevailinginEurope。

Theworstelementsalwaysfollowinthewakeofdiscovery。Oursettlementsabroadgraduallybecametheabodeofthecompromised，thedivorced，thesociallyandfinanciallybankrupt。

Withinthelastdecadewehavefoundawaytorevengetheslightsputuponus，especiallythoseofferedtoAmericansinthecapitalofGaul。Havingforthemomentnoplaywrightsofourown，themenwhoconcoctdramas，comedies，andburlesquesforourstagefind，insteadofwearyingthemselvesintryingtoproduceoriginalmatter，thatitismuchsimplertoadaptfromFrenchwriters。ThishasbeencarriedtosuchalengththatentireFrenchplaysarenowproducedinNewYorksignedbyAmericannames。

ThegreatFrenchplaywrightscanprotectthemselvesbytakingoutAmericancopyright，butifoneofthemomitsthisformality，the"conquerors"immediatelyseizeuponhisworkandtranslateit，omittingintentionallyallmentionoftherealauthorontheirprogrammes。ThisseasonaplaywasproducedofwhichthefirstactwastakenfromGuydeMaupassant，thesecondandthird"adapted"

fromSardou，withepisodesintroducedfromotherauthorstobrightenthemixture。Thepiecethuspatchedtogetherissignedbyawell-knownAnglo-Saxonname，andacceptedbyourmoralpublic，althoughtheoriginalofthefirstactwasstoppedbytheParisianpoliceastooimmoralforthatgaycapital。

Ofwhatusewoulditbeto"discover"anewcontinentunlesstheexplorersweretoreapsomesuchbenefits？Letustakeeveryadvantagethatourproudpositiongivesus，plunderingtheforeignauthors，makingpenalsettlementsoftheircapitals，andignoringtheirfoolishcustomsandprejudiceswhenwetravelamongthem!InthiswayshallweeffectuallyimpressontheinferiorracesacrosstheAtlanticthegreatnessoftheAmericannation。

CHAPTER39-ARaceofSlavesITisallverywellforustohaveinvadedEurope，andawakenedthatsomnolentcontinenttothelightsanddelightsofAmericanways；tohavebeautifiedthecitiesoftheoldworldwithgracefultrolleysandilluminatedthecatacombsatRomewithelectricity。

EverytrueAmericanmustthrillwithsatisfactionattheseachievements，andtheknowledgethathebelongstoadominatingrace，beforewhichthewaningcivilizationofEuropemustfadeawayanddisappear。

TohavediscoveredEuropeandtoruleasconquerorsabroadiswell，butitisnotenough，ifweareledinchainsathome。Itisrecordedofacertainambitiouscaptainwhose"Commentaries"madeourschool-daysaburden，that"hepreferredtobethefirstinavillageratherthansecondatRome。"Oddlyenough，WEarecontentedtobeslavesinourvillageswhileweareconquerorsinRome。Canitbethatthestrugglesofourancestorsforfreedomwerefoughtinvain？Didtheythrowofftheyokeofkings，crosstheAtlantic，foundanewformofgovernmentonanewcontinent，breakwithtraditions，andsignadeclarationofindependence，onlythatweshouldsuccumb，acenturylater，yieldingthefruitsoftheirhard-foughtbattleswithcravensupinenessintothehandsofcorporationsandmunicipalities；humblybowingnecksthatrefusetobendbeforeanointedsovereigns，tothewillofsteamboatsubordinates，theinsolenceofbe-diamondedhotel-clerks，andthecaptiousconductor？

LastweekmytrainfromWashingtonarrivedinJerseyCityontime。

Wescurried(likegoodAmericans)totheferry-boat，hotandtiredandanxioustogettoourdestination；ahopedeferred，however，forourboatwaskeptwaitingfortylongminutes，because，forsooth，anothertrainfromsomewhereintheSouthwasbehindtime。Expostulationswereinvain。Beingonlythepayingpublic，wehadnorightsthatthoseautocrats，theofficials，wereboundtorespect。Theargumentthatiftheyknewthesoutherntraintobesomuchbehind，theferry-boatwouldhaveplentyoftimetotakeusacrossandreturn，wasofnoavail，so，likeacargoof"moo-cows"

(asthechildrensay)，wesubmittedmeekly。Inordertomakethetimepassmorepleasantlyforthetwohundredpeoplegatheredontheboat，aduskypotentatejudgedthemomentappropriatetoscrubthecabinfloors。So，aidedbyacoupleofsubordinates，heproceededtodelugetheentireplaceinfloodsofwater，obligingustositwithourfeettuckedupunderus，splashingtheladies"

skirtsandourwrapsandbelongings。

Suchtreatmentofthepublicwouldhaveraisedariotanywherebutinthislandoffreedom。Doyousupposeanyonemurmured？Notatall。Thewell-trainedpublichadtheairofbeinginchurch。Myneighborsappearedastonishedatmyimpatience，andinformedmethattheywereoftendetainedinthatway，asthecompanywasshortofboats，buttheyhopedtohaveanewoneinayearortwo。ThisdetaildidnotpreventthatcorporationadvertisingourtraintoarriveinNewYorkatthree-thirteen，insteadofwhichwelandedatfouro"clock。IfasimilarbreachofcontracthadhappenedinEngland，adozenletterswouldhaveappearedinthe"Times，"andthegrievancebeenwellaired。

AnotherinflictiontowhichallwhotravelinAmericaaresubjectedisthebrushingatrocity。Twentyminutesbeforeatrainarrivesatitsdestination，thedespotwhohastakennonoticeofanyoneuptothismoment，excepttosnubthem，becomessuspiciouslyattentiveandinsistsonbrushingeverybody。Thedirtonetravellerhasbeenaccumulatingissentincloudsintothefacesofhisneighbors。

Whenheispolishedoffandhaspaidhis"quarter"oftribute，thenextmangetsup，andthedirtisthenbrushedbackontonumberone，withnumbertwo"scollectionadded。

Labichebeginsoneofhisplayswithtwoservantsatworkinasalon。"Dusting，"saysoneofthem，"istheartofsendingthedirtfromthechairontherightovertothesofaontheleft。"I

alwaysthinkofthatremarkwhenIseetheprocessperformedinaparlorcar，forwhenitisoverweareallexactlywherewebegan。

Ifamanshouldshampoohishair，orhavehisbootscleanedinasalon，hewouldbeejectedasaboor；yettheideaapparentlyneverenterstheheadsofthosewhosoilandchoketheirfellow-

passengersthatthebrushingmightbedoneinthevestibule。

Onthesubjectoffreshairandheatwearealsointhehandsofofficials，dozensofpassengersbeingmadetosufferforthecapricesofoneoftheirnumber，orthetasteofsomecaptiousinvalid。Inotherlandstherightsofminoritiesareoftenignored。Withusitisthecontrary。Onesnifflingschool-girlwhoprefersatemperatureof80degreescanforceacarfullofpeopletoswelterinanatmospherethatisdeathtothem，becausesherefuseseithertoputonherwrapsortohaveawindowopened。

Streetrailwaysaretorture-chamberswhereweslavesaremadetosufferinanotherway。Youmustbegintoreelandplungetowardsthedooratleasttwoblocksbeforeyourdestination，soastoleaptothegroundwhenthecarslowsup；otherwisetheconductorwillbeoffendedwithyou，andcarryyouseveralsquarestoofar，orwithajocose"Steplively，"willgraspyourelbowandshootyouout。Anyonewhoshouldsitquietlyinhisplaceuntilthevehiclehadcometoafullstop，wouldberegardedbytheslave-driverandhiscargoasaPOSEURwhowasassumingairs。

Theideathatcarsandboatsexistfortheconvenienceofthepublicwasexplodedlongago。Wearemade，dozensoftimesaday，tofeelthatthisisnolongerthecase。Itis，onthecontrary，broughtvividlyhometousthatsuchconveyancesaremoneymakingmachinesinthepossessionofpowerfulcorporations(towhomwe，inourdebasement，havehandedoverthefreedomofourstreetsandrivers)，andarerunintheinterestandatthediscretionoftheirowners。

Itisnotonlybeforethegreatandthepowerfulthatwebowinsubmission。Theshop-girlisanothertyrantwhohasplantedherfootfirmlyontheneckofthenation。Sherespectsneithersexnorage。Ensconcedbehindthebulwarkofhercounter，shescornstonoticehumbleaspirantsuntiltheyhaveperformedapreliminarypenance；atimeshefillsupincheerfulconversationaddressedtootheryoungtyrants，onlydecidingtonoticecustomerswhensheseestheirlastgrainofpatienceisexhausted。Sheisoftenofamerrymood，andifanythingaboutyourappearanceormannerstrikeshercriticalsenseasamusing，willlaughgaylywithhercompanionsatyourexpense。

AFrenchgentlemanwhospeaksourlanguagecorrectlybutwithsomeaccent，toldmethathefounditimpossibletogetservedinourstores，theshop-girlsburstingwithlaughterbeforehecouldmakehiswantsknown。

NotlongagoIwasattheCompagnieLyonnaiseinPariswithastoutAmericanlady，whoinsistedontippingherchairforwardonitsfrontlegsassheselectedsomelaces。Suddenlythechairflewfromunderher，andshesatviolentlyonthepolishedfloorinanattitudesosupremelycomicthattherestofherpartywereinwardlyconvulsed。Notamusclemovedinthefacesofthewell-

trainedclerks。Theproprietorassistedhertoriseasgravelyasifhewerebowingustoourcarriage。

InrestaurantsAmericancitizensaretreatedevenworsethanintheshops。Youwillseecowedcustomerswhoareanxioustogetawaytotheirbusinessorpleasuresittingmutelypatient，untilawaiterhappenstoremembertheirorders。Idonotknowasingleestablishmentinthiscitywherethewaiterstakeanynoticeoftheircustomers"arrival，orwheretheproprietorcomes，towardtheendofthemeal，toinquireifthedisheshavebeencookedtotheirtaste。TheinterestsogeneralontheContinentorinEnglandisreplacedherebythesameairofbeingdisturbedfrommoreimportantoccupations，thatcharacterizestheshop-girlandelevatorboy。

Numbersofourpeopleliveapparentlyinaweoftheirservantsandtheopinionofthetradespeople。Onemiddle-agedladywhomI

occasionallytaketothetheatre，insistswhenwearriveatherdooronmyaccompanyinghertotheelevator，inorderthattheyouthwhopresidesthereinmayseethatshehasanescort，theopinionofthissubordinateapparentlybeingofsupremeimportancetoher。Oneofour"gildedyouths"recentlytoldmeofathrillingadventureinwhichhehadfigured。Atthemomenthewaspassingunderanawningonhiswaytoareception，agustofwindsenthishatgambollingdowntheblock。"Thinkwhatasituation，"heexclaimed。"Therestoodagroupofmyfriends"footmenwatchingme。ButIwasequaltothesituationandenteredthehouseasifnothinghadhappened!"SirWalterRaleighsacrificedacloaktopleaseaqueen。Thisyouthabandonedanewhat，fearingthelaughterofahalf-dozenservants。

Oneofthereasonswhywehavebecomesoweakinthepresenceofourpaidmastersisthatnowhereistheindividualallowedtoprotest。Theothernightafriendwhowaswithmeatatheatreconsideredtheactinginferior，andexpressedhisopinionbyhissing。Hewaspromptlyejectedbyapoliceman。Themannextmewas，onthecontrary，sopleasedwiththepiecethatheencoredeverysong。Ihadpaidtoseethepieceonce，andrebelledatbeingobligedtoseeittwicetosuitmyneighbor。Onreferringthemattertothebox-office，thecaliphinchargeinformedmethattheslavesheallowedtoenterhisestablishment(likethosewhoinotherdaysformedthecourtofLouisXIV。)werepermittedtopraise，butweresuppressediftheymurmureddissent。InhisMEMOIRES，Dumas，PERE，tellsofa"firstnight"whenthreethousandpeopleapplaudedaplayofhisandonespectatorhissed。"HewastheonlyoneIrespected，"saidDumas，"forthepiecewasbad，andthatcriticismspurredmeontoimproveit。"

Howcanwehopeforanyimprovementinthestandardofourentertainments，themannersofourservantsorthewaysofcorporationswhennoonecomplains？Wearetoomuchinahurrytofollowupagrievanceandhaveitrighted。"Itdoesn"tpay，""I

haven"tgotthetime，"arephraseswithwhichallsuchsubjectsaredismissed。Wewillsitinover-heatedcars，eatvilelycookedfood，putupwithinsolencefromsubordinates，becauseitistoomuchtroubletoassertourrights。IsthespiritthatpromptedthefirstshotsonLexingtonCommonbecomingextinct？HavethefloodsofemigrationsodilutedourAnglo-Saxonbloodthatwenolongercaretofightforliberty？Willnopatriotariseandleadarevoltagainstourtyrants？

Iampreparedtofollowsuchaleader，andhavealreadymarkedmyprey。First，Iwillslayacertainmiscreantwhositsatthereceiptofcustomsinthebox-officeofanup-towntheatre。ForyearsIhavetriedtopropitiatethatsatrapwithmodestpolitenessandfeeblelittlejokes。Hehasneverbeensoftenedbyeither，butcontinuesto"chuck"theworstplacesouttome(nomatterhowearlyIarrive，thebesthavealwaysbeengiventothespeculators)，andtofrowndownmyattemptsatself-assertion。

WhenIhaveseenthisenemyatmyfeet，Ishallstartdowntown(stoppingonthewaytobrainthetelleratmybank，whoisperenniallyparinghisnails，andrefusestoseemeuntilthatoperationisperformed)，totheofficeofanight-boatline，wheretheclerkhassooftenforcedme，withhundredsofotherwearyvictims，tostandinlinelikeconvicts，whilehechatswitha"ladyfriend，"hisbackturnedtousandhislegcomfortablythrownoverthearmofhischair。ThenIwilltakemyblood-stainedway-

but，no!Itisbetternottoputmyvictimsontheirguard，buttoabidemytimeinsilence!Courage，fellow-slaves，ourdaywillcome!

CHAPTER40-Introspection*

THEcloseofayearmustbringeventothecarelessandtheleastinclinedtowardself-inspection，anhourofthoughtfulness，adesiretoglancebackacrossthepast，andsetone"smentalhouseinorder，beforestartingoutonanotherstageofthejourneyforthatnonetoodistantbournetowardwhichweallaremoving。

*Decemberthirty-first，1888。

Ourmindsarelikesolitarydwellersinavastresidence，whomhabithasaccustomedtoliveinafewonlyofthecountlesschambersaroundthem。Wehavecollectedfromotherpartsofourlivesmentalfurnitureandbric-a-bracthattimeandassociationhaveendearedtous，haveinstalledthesemeagrebelongingsconvenienttoourhand，andcontrivedanentrancegivingfacileaccesstoourliving-rooms，avoidingtheeffortofalongdetourthroughtheechoingcorridorsanddisusedsalonsbehind。Noacquaintances，andbutfewfriends，penetrateintotheprivatechambersofourthoughts。Wesetasideacommonroomforthereceptionofvisitors，makingitascheerfulascircumstanceswillallowandtakecarethattheconversationthereinrarelyturnsonanysubjectmorepersonalthantheviewfromthewindowsorthepropheciesofthebarometer。

Intheold-fashionedbrickpalaceatKensington，alittlesuiteofroomsiscarefullyguardedfromthepublicgaze，swept，garnishedandtendedasthoughtheoccupantsoflongagowerehourlyexpectedtoreturn。TheearlyyearsofEngland"sagedsovereignwerepassedinthesesimpleapartmentsandbyherorderstheyhavebeenkeptunchanged，thefurnitureanddecorationsremainingto-dayaswhensheinhabitedthem。Inonecorner，isassembledagroupofdolls，dressedinthequaintfineryof1825。Asetofminiaturecookingutensilsstandsnearby。Achild"sscrap-booksandcolor-boxeslieonthetables。Inonesunnychamberstandsthelittlewhite-drapedbedwheretheheiresstothegreatestcrownonearthdreamedherchildishdreams，andfromwhichshewashastilyarousedoneJunemorningtobesalutedasQueen。Sohomelikeandlivableanairpervadestheplace，thatonealmostexpectstoseethelonelylittlegirlofseventyyearsagoplayingabouttheunpretendingchambers。

Affectionforthepastandareverenceforthememoryofthedeadhavecausedtheroyalwifeandmothertopreservewiththesamecaresouvenirsofherpassageinotherroyalresidences。Theapartmentsthatshelteredthefirsthappymonthsofherweddedlife，theroomswheresheknewthejoysandanxietiesofmaternity，havebecomeforherconsecratedsanctuaries，wherethewidowed，brokenoldladycomesoncertainanniversariestoevoketheunforgottenpast，tomeditateandtopray。

Who，astheyearisdrawingtoitsclose，doesnotopeninmemorysomesuchsacredportal，andsitdowninthefamiliarroomstoliveoveragaintheoldhopesandfears，thrillinganewwiththejoysandtemptationsofotherdays？Yet，eachyearthesepilgrimagesintothepastmustbecomemoreandmorelonelyjourneys；thefriendswhomwecantakebythehandandleadbacktoouroldhomesbecomefewerwitheachdecade。Itwouldbeauselesssacrilegetoforcesomelistlessacquaintancetoaccompanyus。Hewouldnothearthevoicesthatcalltous，orseethelovedfacesthatpeoplethesilentpassages，andwouldwonderwhatattractionwecouldfindinthestuffy，old-fashionedquarters。

Manypeoplehavesuchadislikeforanymentalprivacythattheypasstheirlivesinpublic，orsurroundedonlybysportingtrophiesandgames。Someenjoylivingintheirpantries，composingforthemselvessucculentdishes，andinterestedinthedoingsoftheservants，theircompanions。Othershaveturnedtheirsalonsintonurseries，orfeelapredilectionforthestableandthedog-

kennels。Suchpeoplesoonwearyoftheirsurroundings，andmoveconstantly，destroying，whentheyleaveoldquarters，alltheobjectstheyhadcollected。

Themenandwomenwhohavethuscurtailedtheirbelongingsare，however，quitecontentedwiththemselves。Nodoubtseverharassthemastothecommodityorappropriatenessoftheirlodgementsandlookwithpityandcontemptonfriendswhoremainfaithfultooldhabitations。Thedrawbacktoamigratoryexistence，however，isthefactthat，asaFrenchsayinghasputit，CEUXQUISEREFUSENT

LESPENSEESSERIEUSESTOMBENTDANSLESIDEESNOIRES。Thesepeoplearesurprisedtofindastheyearsgobythatthefutileamusementstowhichtheyhavedevotedthemselvesdonotfilltotheirsatisfactionallthehoursofalifetime。Havingprovidednobooksnorlearnedtopractiseanyart，thetimehangsheavilyontheirhands。Theydarenotlookforwardintothefuture，soblankandcheerlessdoesitappear。Thepastisevenmoredistastefultothem。So，tofillthevoidintheirhearts，theyhurryoutintothecrowdasarefugefromtheirownthoughts。

Happythosewhocaretorevisitoldabodes，childhood"sremotewing，andthemoonlitporcheswheretheyknewtheraptureofafirst-lovewhisper。Whocanenterthechapelwheretheirdeadlie，andfeelnoblushofself-reproach，norburningconsciousnessofbrokenfaithnorwastedopportunities？Thenewyearwillbringtothemasnearanapproachtoperfecthappinessascanbeattainedinlife"sjourney。Thefortunatemortalsarerarewhocan，withoutaheartacheorregret，passthroughtheirdisusedandabandoneddwellings；whodaretoopeneverydoorandenterallthesilentrooms；whodonothurryshudderinglybysomeobscurecorners，andreturnwithasighofrelieftothecheerfulsunlightandmurmursofthepresent。

Sleeplessmidnighthourscomeinevitablytoeachofus，whenthecreakinggatesofsubterraneanpassagesfardowninourconsciousnessopenofthemselves，andghostlyinhabitantsstealoutofawfulvaultsandforceustolookagainintotheirfacesandtouchtheirunhealedwounds。

Anoldladywhosecheerfulnessunderahundredgriefsandtribulationswasamarvelandanexample，oncetoldamanwhohadcometoherforcounselinamomentofbittertrouble，thatshehadderivedcomfortwhendifficultiesloomedbigaroundherbywritingdownallhercaresandworries，makingalistofthesubjectsthatharassedher，andhadalwaysfoundthat，whenreducedtomaterialwrittenwords，thedimensionsofhertroubleswereastonishinglydiminished。Sherecommendedherproceduretothetroubledyouth，andprophesiedthathisanxietieswoulddwindleawayintheclearatmosphereofpenandpaper。

Introspection，thedeliberateunlatchingofclosedwickets，hasthesameeffect

ofstealingawaythebitternessfromthoughtsthat，ifleftinthegloomofsemi-oblivion，willgrowuntiltheyovershadowawholelife。ItisbettertofollowtheexampleofEngland"spureQueen，visitingoncertainanniversariesoursecretplacesandholdingcommunionwiththepast，foritisby。

Thosewhohavecouragetoperformthoroughlythistaskwillcomeoutfromthesilentchamberspurifiedandchastened，morelenienttothefaultsandshortcomingsofothers，andbetterfittedtotakeupcheerfullytheburdensofanewyear。