第3章

Whatisthelogicaldeductiontobedrawnfromallthis？Simplythatpeopledonotseewiththeireyesorjudgewiththeirunderstandings；thatanall-pervadinghypnotism，anambientsuggestion，attimesenvelopsustakingfrompeopleallfreewill，andreplacingitwiththetasteandjudgmentofthemoment。

Thenumberofpeopleissmallineachgeneration，whoarestrongenoughtoriseabovetheirsurroundingsandthinkforthemselves。

Therestareasdryleavesonastream。Theyfloatalongandturngaylyintheeddies，convincedallthetime(asperhapsaretheleaves)thattheyactentirelyfromtheirownvolitionandthattheirmovementsarehavingaprofoundinfluenceonthedirectionandforceofthecurrent。

CHAPTER10-BohemiaLUNCHINGwithatalentedEnglishcomedianandhiswifetheotherday，theconversationturnedonBohemia，theevasiveno-man"s-landthatThackerayreferredto，insomanyofhisbooks，andtowhichhelookedbacklovinglyinhislateryears，when，ashesaid，hehadforgottentheroadtoPrague。

Theladyremarked:"PeoplehavebeenmorethankindtoushereinNewYork。Wehavedinedandsuppedoutconstantly，andhavemetwithgraciouskindness，suchaswecanneverforget。Butsofarwehavenotmetasinglepainter，orauthor，orsculptor，oramanwhohasexploredacorneroftheearth。NeitherhavewehadthegoodlucktofindourselvesinthesameroomwithTeslaorRehan，EdisonorDrew。WeshallregretsomuchwhenbackinEnglandandareaskedaboutyourpeopleoftalent，beingobligedtosay，"Wenevermetanyofthem。"Whyisit？Wehavenotbeeninanyonecircle，andhavepitchedourtentsinmanycities，duringourtoursoverhere，butalwayswiththesameresult。WereadyourAmericanauthorsasmuchas，ifnotmorethan，ourown。ThenamesofdozensofyourdiscoverersandpaintersarehouseholdwordsinEngland。

Whenmyhusbandplannedhisfirsttouroverheremyoneideawas，"Howniceitwillbe!NowIshallmeetthosedelightfulpeopleofwhomIhaveheardsomuch。"Thedisappointmenthasbeencomplete。

NeveronehaveIseen。"

Icouldnotbutfeelhowalltootrueweretheremarksofthisintelligentvisitor，rememberinghowquickthesocietyofLondonistowelcomeanewcelebrityororiginalcharacter，howaplaceisatoncemadeforhimateveryhospitableboard，apermanentonetowhichheisexpectedtoreturn；andhownoContinentalentertainmentisconsideredcompletewithoutsomebrightparticularstartoshineinthefirmament。

"Lion-hunting，"Ihearmyreadersaywithasneer。Thatmaybe，butitmakessocietyworththecandle，whichitrarelyisoverhere。IrealizedwhatIhadoftenvaguelyfeltbefore，thattheBohemiatheEnglishladywaslookingforwasnottobefoundinthiscountry，more"sthepity。Notthattheelementsarelacking。

Farfromit，(forevenmorethaninLondonshouldwebeabletocombinesuchasociety)，butperhapsfromamisconceptionofthetrueideaofsuchasociety，dueprobablytoHenryMurger"sdrearybookSCENESDELAVIEDEBOHEMEwhichischargeablewiththefactthatacircleofthiskindevokesinthemindofmostAmericansvisionsofascrubby，poorly-fedandless-washedcommunity，aworldtheywouldhardlydareasktotheirtablesforfearofsomeembarrassingunconventionalityofconductordress。

Yetthatcanhardlybethereason，foreveninMurgerorPauldeKock，attheirworst，theheroisstillagentleman，andevenwhenheborrowsafriend"scoat，itistogotoagreathouseandamongpeopleofrank。Besides，wearebecomingtoocosmopolitan，andwandertooconstantlyoverthislittleglobe，nottohavelearnedthattheBohemiaof1830isascompletelyathingofthepastasaGRISETTEoraglyphisodon。ItdisappearedwithGavarniandtheauthorswhodescribedit。Althoughwehavekepttheword，itsmeaninghasgraduallychangeduntilithascometomeansomethingdifficulttodefine，awill-o"-the-wisp，whichonetriesvainlytograsp。Witheachdecadeithasputonanewformandchangeditscentre，theonedefinitefactbeingthatitcombinesthebetterelementsofseveralsociallayers。

Dropin，ifyouareinParisandknowtheway，atoneofMadeleineLemaire"sinformaleveningsinherstudio。ThereyoumayfindthePrincedeLigne，chattingwithRejaneorCoquelin；orHenrid"Orleans，justbackfromanexpeditionintoAfrica。Alittlefurtheron，Saint-Saenswillberunningoverthekeys，preparinganaccompanimentforoneofMadamedeTredern"ssongs。ThePrincessMathilde(thatpassionateloverofart)willsurelybethere，and-

butitisneedlesstoparticularize。

CrosstheChannel，andgetyourselfaskedtooneofIrving"schoicesuppersaftertheplay。Youwillfindthebar，thestage，andthepulpitrepresentedthere，a"happyfamily"overwhichthe"Prince"

oftenpresides，smokingcigaraftercigar，untilthetardyLondondaylightappearstobreakuptheentertainment。

Forbotharecentreswherethegiftedandthetravelledmeetthegreatofthesocialworld，onafootingofperfectequality，andwhere，ifanyprestigeisaccorded，itisthatofbrains。Whenyouhaveseentheseplacesandadozenotherslikethem，youwillrealizewhattheactor"swifehadinhermind。

Now，letmewhispertoyouwhyIthinksuchcirclesdonotexistinthiscountry。Inthefirstplace，wearestilltooprovincialinthisbigcityofours。NewYorkalwaysremindsmeofadefinitionIonceheardofCaliforniafruit:"Verylarge，withnoparticularflavor。"Wearelikeaboy，whohashadthemisfortunetogrowtooquicklyandlooklikeaman，butwhosemindhasnotkeptpacewithhisbody。Whatheknowsisundigestedandchaotic，whilehisappearancemakesyouexpectmoreofhimthanhecangive-hencedisappointment。

Oursocietyisyetinknickerbockers，andhasretainedallsortsoflittlenessesandprejudiceswhicholdercivilizationshavelongsincerelegatedtothementallumberroom。AnequivalenttothispointofviewyouwillfindinEnglandorFranceonlyinthesmaller"cathedral"cities，andeventheretheoldaristocratshavethecourageoftheiropinions。Here，whereeverythingisquitefranklyonamoneybasis，and"positions"aremadeandlostlikeafortune，byaturnofthemarket，thosequalitieswhicharepurelymental，andonwhichitishardtoputapracticalvalue，arenaturallyatadiscount。Wearequitereadytopayforthebest。

Witnessourprivategalleriesandtheopera，butwesay，liketheparvenuinEmileAugier"sdelightfulcomedyLEGENDREDEM。

POIRIER，"Patronizeart？Ofcourse!Buttheartists？Never!"

Andfrankly，itwouldbetoomuch，woulditnot，toexpectafamilyonlyhalfagenerationawayfromanironfoundry，oramine，tobewillingtoreceiveIrvingorBernhardtontermsofperfectequality？

Asitwouldbeunjusttodemandamaturemindintheovergrownboy，itisuselesstohopefordelicatetactandsocialfeelingfromtheparvenu。Tobegraciousandateasewithallclassesandprofessions，onemustbeperfectlysureofone"sownposition，andwithusfewfeelthissecurity，itbeingbasedontoofrailafoundation，acrisisinthe"street"goingalongwaytowardsdestroyingit。

OfcourseIamgeneralizinganddoubtnotthatinmanycultivatedhomestherightspiritexists，butunfortunatelythesearenotthecentreswhichgivethetonetoour"world。"LatelyatoneofthemostsplendidhousesinthiscityayoungItaliantenorhadbeenengagedtosing。Whenhehadfinishedhestoodalone，unnoticed，unspokentofortherestoftheevening。Hehadbeenpaidtosing。

"Whatmore，incommonsense，couldhewant？"thoughtthe"world，"

withoutreflectingthatitwasprobablynottheTENORwholostbythatarrangement。Itneedsadelicatehandtoholdthereinsoverthebacksofsuchafine-mouthedcommunityasartistsandsingersform。Theyrarelygivetheirbestwhensingingorperforminginahostileatmosphere。

Afewyearsagowhenafancy-dressballwasgivenattheAcademyofDesign，theoriginalideawastohaveitanartists"ball；thecommunityofthebrushwere，however，approachedwithsuchacompletelackoftactthat，withhardlyanexception，theyheldaloof，andattheballshoneconspicuousbytheirabsence。

AtpresentinthiscityIknowofbuttwohospitablefiresideswhereyouaresuretomeetthebestthecityholdsofeitherforeignornativetalent。Theoneispresidedoverbythewifeofayoungcomposer，andtheother，oddlyenough，bytwounmarriedladies。AninvitationtoadinnerorasupperateitherofthesehousesisaseagerlysoughtafterandashighlyprizedinthegreatworldasitisbytheBohemians，thoughneither"salon"isopenregularly。

Thereisstillhopeforus，andIalreadyseesignsofbetterthings。Perhaps，whenmyEnglishfriendreturnsinafewyears，wemaybeabletoprovetoherthatwehavefoundtheroadtoPrague。

CHAPTER11-SocialExilesBALZAC，inhisCOMEDIEHUMAINE，hasreviewedwithamaster-handalmosteveryphaseoftheSocialWorldofParisdownto1850andThackeraylefthardlyacornerofLondonHighLifeunexplored；butsogreathavebeenthechanges(progress，itsadmirerscallit，)

sincethen，that，couldBalzaccomebacktohisbelovedParis，hewouldfeellikeaforeignerthere；andThackeray，whowasamongusbutyesterday，wouldhavedifficultyinfindinghisbearingsintheseaoftheLondonworldto-day。

Wehavechangedsoradicallythatevenacasualobservercannothelpbeingstruckbythedifference。Amongothermostsignificant"phenomena"hasappearedaphaseoflifethatnotonlyneitherofthesegreatmenobserved(fortheverygoodreasonthatithadnotappearedintheirtime)，butwhichseemsalsotohaveescapedthenoticeofthewritersofourownday，closeobserversastheyareofanynewdevelopment。ImeantheclassofSocialExiles，pitiablewanderersfromhomeandcountry，whohaunttheContinent，andaretobefound(sadlittlecolonies)inout-of-the-waycornersofalmosteverycivilizedcountry。

Toknowmuchofthisformofmodernlife，onemusthavebeenawanderer，likemyself，andhavepitchedhistentinmanyqueerplaces；fortheyareshygameandnoteasilyraised，frequentingmostlyquietoldcitieslikeVersaillesandFlorence，orinexpensivewatering-placeswheretheirmeagreincomesbecomeaffluencebycontrast。Thefirstthoughtondroppinginonsuchasettlementis，"Howintheworlddidthesepeopleeverdrifthere？"

Itissimpleenoughandgenerallycomesaboutinthisway:

Thefatherofawealthyfamilydies。Thefortuneturnsouttobelessthanwasexpected。Thewidowandchildrendecidetogoabroadforayearorso，duringtheirperiodofmourning，partiallyfordistraction，andpartially(afactwhichisnotspokenof)becauseathometheywouldbeforcedtochangetheirwayoflivingtoasimplerone，andthatishardtodo，justatfirst。Latertheythinkitwillbequiteeasy。Sothefamilyemigrates，andafteralittlesight-seeing，settlesinDresdenorTours，casuallyatfirst，inahotel。Ifthereareyoungchildrentheyaremadetheexcuse。"Thelanguagesaresoimportant!"Orelseoneofthedaughtersdevelopsatasteformusic，orasontakesupthestudyofart。Inayearortwo，beforeafurnishedapartmentistaken，theideaofreturningisdiscussed，butabandoned"forthepresent。"Theybeginvaguelytorealizehowdifficultitwillbetotakelifeupagainathome。Duringallthistimetheirincome(likeeverythingelsewhentheownersareabsent)hasbeenslowlybutsurelydisappearing，makingthereturneachyearmoredifficult。Finally，foreconomy，anunfurnishedapartmentistaken。Theysendhomeforbitsoffurnitureandfamilybelongings，andgraduallydropintothegreatarmyoftheexpatriated。

Oh，thepathosofit!Onewhohasnotseenthesepoorstrandedwaifsintheirself-imposedexile，witheyesturnedtowardstheirnativeland，cannotrealizeallthesadnessandlonelinesstheyendure，rarelyadoptingthecountryoftheirresidencebutbecomingmorefirmlyAmericanastheyearsgoby。Thehomepapersandperiodicalsaretaken，theAmericanchurchattended，iftherehappenstobeone；theEnglishchapel，ifthereisnot。NeveraFrenchchurch!IntheirheartstheythinkitalmostirreverenttoreadtheserviceinFrench。Theacquaintanceofafewfellow-

exilesismadeandthatofahalf-dozenEnglishfamilies，mothersanddaughtersandayoungersonortwo，whomtheferociousprimogeniturecustomhascastoutofthehomesoftheirchildhoodtoeconomizeontheContinent。

IhaveinmymindalittlesettlementofthiskindatVersailles，whichwasatype。Theformaloldcity，fallenfromitsgrandeur，wasasingularlyappropriatesettingtothelittlecomedy。Therethemodestpursesoftheexilesfoundrentswithintheirreach，thequartersvastandairy。Thegalleriesandtheparkaffordedadiversion，andthenParis，dearParis，theAmericanMecca，waswithinreach。AtthetimeIknewit，thecolonywasfairlyprosperous，manyofitsmemberslivinginthetwoorthreeprincipalPENSIONS，theothersinapartmentsoftheirown。Theygavefeeblelittleentertainmentsamongthemselves，card-partiesandteas，anddinedaboutwitheachotherattheirrespectiveTABLESD"HOTE，evenknowingastrayFrenchmanortwo，whomthequestofamealhadtemptedoutoftheirnativefastnessesasitdoesthewolvesinahardwinter。WritingandreceivinglettersfromAmericawasoneoftheprincipaloccupations，andanepistledescriptiveofaparticulareventathomewenttherounds，andwaseagerlyreadanddiscussed。

ThemeritsofthedifferentPENSIONSalsoformedasubjectofvitalinterest。Theadvantagesanddisadvantagesoftheserivalestablishmentswere，asatopic，neverexhausted。MADAMEUNETELLE

gavefiveo"clocktea，includedinthesevenfrancsaday，butherrivalgaveonemoremeatcourseatdinnerandhercoffeewascertainlybetter，whileathirdundoubtedlyhadanicersetofpeople。Noonehereathomecanrealizetheimportancethesemattersgraduallyassumeintheeyesoftheexiles。Theirslenderincomeshavetobesocarefullyhandledtomeetthestrainofeventhissimplewayofliving，iftheyaretoshowasurplusforalittletriptotheseashoreinthesummermonths，thatanextrafrancadaybecomesaseriousconsideration。

Everynowandthenafamilystronger-mindedthantheothers，orwithseriousreasonsforreturninghome(adaughtertobringoutorasontoputintobusiness)，wouldbreakawayfromitssomnolentsurroundingsandre-crosstheAtlantic，alternatingbetweenhopeandfear。ItisherethatasadfateawaitsthesemodernRipVanWinkles。Theyfindtheirnativecitieschangedbeyondrecognition。

(Forwemovefastinthesedays。)Themothergetsouthervisitinglistoftenyearsbeforeandisthunderstrucktofindthatitcontainschieflynamesofthe"dead，thedivorced，anddefaulted。"

Thewavesofadecadehavewashedoverherplaceandtheworldsheoncebelongedtoknowshernomore。Theleadersofherdayonwhoseaidshecountedhaveretiredfromthefray。Younger，andalas!unknownfacessitintheoperaboxesandaroundthedinnertableswherebeforeshehadfoundonlyfriends。Afterafeeblelittlestruggletogetagainintothe"swim，"thefamilydriftsbackacrosstheoceanintothequietbackwaterofacontinentaltown，andgoescirclingaroundwiththeothertwigsanddryleaves，moralflotsamandjetsam，thrownasidebythegreatrushoftheoutsideworld。

Fortheparentsthelifeisnottoosad。Theyhavehadtheirday，andare，perhaps，alittlegladintheirheartsofaquietoldage，awayfromtheheatandsweatofthebattle；butfortheyoungergenerationitisannihilation。Eachyeartheircirclegrowssmaller。Deathtakesawayonememberafteranotherofthefamily，untiloneisleftaloneinaforeignlandwithnotiesaroundher，orwithherfar-away"home，"thelattermoreanamenowthanareality。

AyearortwoagoIwastakingluncheonwithourconsulathisprimitivevilla，anhour"sridefromthecityofTangier，aridemadeondonkey-back，asnoroadsexistinthatsunnyland。Afterourcoffeeandcigars，hetookmeahalf-hour"swalkintothewildernessaroundhimtocallonhisnearestneighbors，whosemodeofexistenceseemedasourceofanxietytohim。IfoundmyselfinthepresenceoftwoAmericanladies，theyoungerbeingcertainlynotlessthanseventy-five。TomyastonishmentIfoundtheyhadbeenlivingtheresomethirtyyears，sincethedeathoftheirparents，inanisolationandremotenessimpossibletodescribe，inanArabhouse，withnativeservants，"theworldforgetting，bytheworldforgot。"YettheseladieshadnameswellknowninNewYorkfiftyyearsago。

TheglimpseIhadoftheirexistencemademethoughtfulasIrodehomeinthetwilight，acrossasuburbnonetoosafeforstrangers。

Whathadthefutureinstoreforthosetwo？Or，worsestill，forthesurvivorofthosetwo？Incontrast，Isawacertainhumble"home"farawayinAmerica，wheretwooldladieswereendingtheirlivessurroundedbylovingfriendsandrelations，honoredandcherishedandguardedtenderlyfromtherudeworld。

InbigcitieslikeParisandRomethereisanotherclassoftheexpatriated，thewealthywhohavelefttheirhomesinamomentofpiqueafterthefailureofsomesocialorpoliticalambition；andwhofindinthesecentrestherecognitionrefusedthemathomeandforwhichtheirsoulsthirsted。

ItisnottotheseIrefer，althoughitiscurioustoseeagroupofpeoplelivingforyearsinacountryofwhichthey，halfthetime，donotspeakthelanguage(beyondthenecessitiesofhouse-

keepingandshopping)，knowingbutfewofitsinhabitants，andseeingnoneofthesocietyoftheplace，theiracquaintancerarelygoingbeyondthatequivocal，hybridclassthatsurroundsrich"strangers"andhangsontotheouteredgeoftheGRANDMONDE。Onefeelsforthislatterclassmerelycontempt，butone"spityisreservedfortheformer。WhatobjectlessonssomelivesontheContinentwouldbetoimpatientsoulsathome，whofeeldiscontentedwiththeirsurroundings，andanxioustobreakawayandwanderabroad!Letthemthinktwicebeforetheycutthethousandtiesithastakenalifetimetoform。Bettermonotonyatyourownfireside，myfriends，whereattheworst，youareknownandhaveyourplace，nomatterhowsmall，thananoldageamongstrangers。

CHAPTER12-"SevenAges"ofFurnitureTHEprogressthroughlifeofactive-mindedAmericansisapttobeaseriesoftransformations。Ateachsucceedingphaseofmentaldevelopment，anoldskindropsfromtheirgrowingintelligence，andtheyassimilatetheideasandtastesoftheirnewcondition，withafacilityandcompletenessunknowntoothernations。

Oneseriesofmetamorphosesparticularlyamusingtowatchis，thatofanobservant，receptivedaughterofUncleSamwho，aidedandfollowed(atadistance)byanadoringhusband，graduallydevelopsherexcellentbrain，andrisesthroughfathomsofself-cultureandpurblindexperiment，tothesurfaceofdilettantismandconnoisseurship。Onecangenerallydetecttheexactstageofevolutionsuchaladyhasreachedbythebentofherconversation，thebookssheisreading，and，lastbutnotleast，byhermaterialsurroundings；nooutwardandvisiblesignsreflectinginwardandspiritualgracesoclearlyastheobjectspeoplecollectaroundthemfortheadornmentoftheirrooms，orthewayinwhichthoseroomsaredecorated。

Afewyearsago，whenayoungmanandhisbridesetuphousekeepingontheirownaccount，the"oldpeople"ofbothfamiliesseizedtheopportunitytounloadonthebeginners(underthepretenceofhelpingthemalong)aquantityoffurnitureandbelongingsthathad(astheshopkeeperssay)"ceasedtoplease"theiroriginalowners。

Thenarrowquartersofthetyrosareencumberedbyungainlysofasandarm-chairs，mostprobablyofcarvedrosewood。ETAGERESOFthesamelugubriousmaterialgracethecornersoftheirtinydrawing-

room，thebitsofmirrorinsertedbetweentheshelvesdistortingtheimageoftheownersintoheadlessorlimblessphantoms。Halfoftheirlittledining-roomisfilledwithablack-walnutsideboard，ingeniouslycontrivedtotakeupasmuchspaceaspossibleandholdnothing，itsgracelesstopadornedwithastag"sheadcarvedinwoodandimitationantlers。

Thenovicesintheirinnocencelivecontentedamidtheirhideoussurroundingsforayearortwo，whenthewifeentershersecondepoch，which，forwantofabetterword，wewillcalltheJapaneseperiod。Thegrimfurnituregraduallydisappearsunderalayerofsilkandgauzedraperies，thebarewallsblossomwithpaperumbrellas，fansarenailedingroupspromiscuously，whereveranemptyspaceoffendshereye。Bowsofribbonareattachedtoeverypossibleprotuberanceofthefurniture。Eventhetableserviceisnotspared。Irememberdiningatahouseinthisstageofitsartisticdevelopment，wherethemarrowbonesthatformedonecourseofthedinnerappearedeachwithacoquettishlittlebow-knotofpinkribbonarounditsneck。

Oncelaunchedonthisseaofadornment，thehousewifesoonlosesherbearingsanddecoratesindiscriminately。Heroldeveningdressesservetodrapethemantelpieces，andshepasseseverysparehourembroidering，braiding，orfringingsomematerialtoadornherrooms。AtChristmasherfriendscontributespecimensoftheirhandiworktothecollection。

Theviewofotherhousesandotherdecorationsbeforelongintroducesthewormofdiscontentintotheblossomofourfriend"scontentment。Thefruitofherlaborsbecomestastelessonherlips。Asthefinancesofthefamilyaresatisfactory，there-

arrangementoftheparlorflooris(athersuggestion)confidedtoafirmofupholsterers，whomakeacleansweepoftherosewoodandthebow-knots，andretire，aftersomemonthsoflabor，leavingthedelightedwifeinpossessionofasuiteofroomsglitteringwitheverymonstrositythatanimaginativetradesman，spurredonbyunlimitedcredit，coulddevise。

Thewoodworkofthedoorsandmantelsisanintricatepuzzleofinlaidwoods，theceilingsarepanelledandpaintedincomplicateddesigns。The"parlor"isprovidedwithacompletesetofneat，old-goldsatinfurniture，puffedatitsangleswithpeacock-coloredplush。

Themonumentalfoldingdoorsbetweenthelong，narrowroomsaredrapedwiththesamechastecombinationofstuffs。

Thedining-roomblazeswithagoldandpurplewallpaper，setoffbyebonizedwoodworkandfurniture。Theconscientiouscontractorhasneglectednocorner。Everysquareinchoftheceilings，walls，andfloorshasbeencarved，embossed，stencilled，orgildedintoabewilderingmonotony。

Thehusband，whoseaffairsarerapidlyincreasingonhishands，hasnotimetoattendtosuchinsignificantdetailsashousedecoration，thewifehasperfectconfidenceinthetasteofthefirmemployed。Soatthesuggestionofthelatter，andinordertocompletethebeautyoftherooms，aBouguereau，aToulmoucheandacoupleofSchreyersarebought，andanumberofmodernFrenchbronzesscatteredaboutonthemulticoloredcabinets。Then，atlast，thehappyownersofallthissplendoropentheirdoorstotheadmirationoftheirfriends。

Aboutthetimethepeacockplushandthegildingbegintoshowsignsofwearandtear，rumorsofafreshfashionindecorationfloatacrossfromEngland，andthenewgospelofthebeautifulaccordingtoClarenceCookisfirstpreachedtoanastonishednation。

Thefortuneofourcouplecontinuingtodevelopwithpleasingrapidity，thebuildingofacountryhouseisnextdecidedupon。A

friendofthehusband，whohasrecentlystartedoutasanarchitect，designsthemapicturesqueresidencewithoutastraightlineonitsexteriororasquareroominside。Thishouseisdoneupinstrictobediencetotheteachingsofthenewsect。Thedining-roomismadeaboutascheerfulastheentrancetoafamilyvault。Therestofthehousebearsacloseresemblancetoanecclesiasticaljunkshop。Theentrancehallisfilledwithwhatappearstobeacommuniontableinsolidoak，andthemassivechairsandsetteesoftheparlorsuggestthewithdrawingroomofRowena，aestheticshadesofmomie-clothdrapedeep-setwindows，whereanaemicanddisjointedfemalesinstainedglasspluckconventionalroses。

Toeachofthesesuccessivetransitionsthehusbandhasremainedobedientlyandtranquillyindifferent。Hehasinhisheartconsideredthemallequallyunfittinganduncomfortableandsighedinregretfulmemoryofadeep，old-fashionedarm-chairthatshelteredhisafter-dinnernapsintheearlyrosewoodperiod。Sofarhehasbeenasclayinthehandsofhisbelovedwife，buttheanaemicladiesandthecommuniontablearethelastdropthatcauseshiscuptooverflow。Herevoltsandbeginstotakemattersintohisownhandswiththeresultthatthehouseholdentersitsfifthincarnationunderhisguidance，duringwhicheverythingispaintedwhiteandallthewall-papersareavividscarlet。ThefamilysitonbogusChippendaleandeatoffblueandwhitechina。

Withthebuildingoftheirgrandnewhouseneartheparkthecouplerisetogetherintothesixthcycleoftheirdevelopment。Havingtravelledandstudiedtheepochsbythistime，theycantellaLouisXIV。fromaLouisXV。room，andrecognizethatmahoganyandbrasssphinxesdenotefurnitureoftheEmpire。Thisnewlyacquiredknowledgeis，however，vagueandhazy。Theyhavenoconfidenceinthemselves，sogiveoverthefittingoftheirprincipalfloorstotheNewYorkbranchofagreatFrenchhouse。Littleistalkedofnowbutperiods，plans，andelevations。UndertheguidanceoftheFrenchfirm，theyacquireatvastexpense，fakedreproductionsashistoricfurniture。

Thespaciousroomsarestickywithnewgilding，andthefloweredbrocadesofthehangingsandfurniturecrackletothetouch。Theroomswerenotdesignedbythearchitecttoreceiveanyspecialkindof"treatment。"Immensefolding-doorsunitethesalons，andwindowsopenanywhere。Thedecorationsofthewallshavebeenappliedlikeapoultice，regardlessoftheproportionsoftheroomsandthedistributionofthespaces。

Buildinganddecoratingare，however，thebestofeducations。Thehusband，freedatlastfromhisbusinessoccupations，findsinthisnewstudyaninterestandacharmunknowntohimbefore。Heandhiswifearebothvaguelydisappointedwhentheirresplendentmansionisfinished，havingalreadyoutgrownit，andrecognizethatinspiteofcorrectdetail，theircostlyapartmentsnomoreresemblethestatelyandsimplesalonsseenabroadthanthecabinofaFallRiverboatresemblestheGALERIEDESGLACESatVersailles。Thehumiliatingknowledgethattheyareallwrongbreaksuponthem，asitisdoingonhundredsofothers，atthesametimeasthedesiretoknowmoreandappreciatebettertheperfectproductionsofthisart。

Aseventhandlaststepisbeforethembuttheyknownothowtomakeit。Asurerguidethantheupholstereris，theyknow，essential，buttheirlibrarycontainsnothingtohelpthem。Otherspossesstheinformationtheyneed，yettheyareignorantwheretoturnforwhattheyrequire。

Withsingularappropriatenessavolumetreatingofthisdelightful"art"hasthisseasonappearedatScribner"s。"TheDecorationofHouses"istheresultofawoman"sfaultlesstastecollaboratingwithaman"stechnicalknowledge。Itsmissionistorevealtothehundredswhohaveadvancedjustfarenoughtofindthattheycangonofartheralone，truthslyingconcealedbeneaththesurface。Itteachesthatconsummatetasteissatisfiedonlywithaperfectedsimplicity；thatthefacadesofahousemustbetheenvelopeoftheroomswithinandadaptedtothem，astheroomsaretothehabitsandrequirementsofthem"thatdwelltherein；"thatproportionisthebackboneofthedecorator"sartandthatsupremeeleganceisfitnessandmoderation；and，aboveall，thatanattentiontoarchitecturalprinciplescanaloneleaddecorationtoaperfectdevelopment。

CHAPTER13-OurEliteandPublicLifeTHEcomplaintissooftenheard，andseemssowellfounded，thatthereisagrowinginclination，notonlyamongmenofsocialposition，butalsoamongourbestandcleverestcitizens，tostandalooffrompubliclife，andthisreluctanceontheirpartissounfortunate，thatonefeelsimpelledtoseekoutthecauseswheretheymustlie，beneaththesurface。Atafirstglancetheyarenotapparent。Whyshouldnotthehonorofrepresentingone"stownorlocalitybeaseagerlysoughtafterwithusasitisbyEnglishorFrenchmenofposition？Thatsuchisnotthecase，however，isevident。

Speakingofthistheotherevening，overmyafter-dinnercoffee，withahigh-mindedandpublic-spiritedgentleman，whonotlongagorepresentedourcountryataEuropeancourt，headvancedtwotheorieswhichstruckmeasbeingwellworthrepeating，andwhichseemedtoaccounttoacertainextentforthiscuriousabstinence。

Asafirstandmostimportantcause，heplacedthefactthatneitherournationalnor(hereinNewYork)ourstatecapitalcoincideswithourmetropolis。InthiswedifferfromEnglandandallthecontinentalcountries。Theresultisnotdifficulttoperceive。InLondon，amanoftheworld，abusinessman，oragreatlawyer，whorepresentsalocalityinParliament，canfulfilhismandateandatthesametimeleadhisusuallifeamonghisownset。Thelawyerorthebusinessmancanfollowduringthedayhisprofession，orthoseaffairsonwhichhedependstosupporthisfamilyandhispositionintheworld。Then，afterdinner(owingtothepeculiarhoursadoptedforthesittingsofParliament)，hecantakehisplaceasalaw-maker。IfhebeaLondon-bornman，heinnowaychangeshiswayoflifeorthatofhisfamily。If，onthecontrary，hebeacountymagnate，thechangehemakesisallforthebetter，asittakeshimandhiswifeanddaughtersuptoLondon，thehavenoftheirlongings，andthecentreofallsortsofsocialdissipationsandadvancement。

Withus，itisexactlythecontrary。AstheDistrictofColumbiaelectsnoone，everybodylivinginWashingtonofficiallyismoreorlessexpatriated，andthesociallifeitoffersisapoorsubstituteforthecirclewhichmostfamiliesleavetogothere。

That，however，isnotthemostimportantsideofthequestion。GotoanygreatlawyerofeitherNewYorkorChicago，andproposesendinghimtoCongressortheSenate。Hisanswerissuretobe，"Icannotaffordit。Iknowitisanhonor，butwhatistoreplacethehundredthousanddollarsayearwhichmyprofessionbringsmein，nottomentionthatallmypracticewouldgotopiecesduringmyabsence？"Oragain，"HowshouldIdaretoproposetomyfamilytoleaveoneofthegreatcentresofthecountrytogoandvegetateinalittleprovincialcitylikeWashington？No，indeed!Publiclifeisoutofthequestionforme!"

DoesanyonesupposeEnglandwouldhavetheclassofmenshegetsinParliament，ifthatbodysatatBristol？

UntilrecentlythemanwhooccupiedthepositionofLordChancellormadethirtythousandpoundsayearbyhisprofessionwithoutinterferinginanywaywithhispublicduties，andatthepresentmomentarecordershipinLondoninnowisepreventsprivatepractice。WerethesegentlemenAmericans，theywouldbeobligedtorenounceallhopeofprofessionalincomeinordertoservetheircountryatitsCapital。

Letusglanceforamomentattheotherreason。Owingtoourlaws(doubtlessperfectlyreasonable，andwhichitisnotmyintentiontocriticise，)amanmustresideintheplaceherepresents。Hereagainwedifferfromallotherconstitutionalcountries。

Unfortunately，ourcleveryoungmenleavethesmalltownsoftheirbirthandflockuptothegreatcentresasofferingwiderfieldsfortheiradvancement。Inconsequence，thelocalelectorfindshischoicelimitedtowhatisleft-theintellectualskimmedmilk，ofwhichthecreamhasbeencarriedtoNewYorkorotherbigcities。

Nocountrycanexistwithoutametropolis，andassuchacentrebyanaturallawofassimilationabsorbsthebestbrainsofthecountry，inothernationsithasbeenfoundtotheinterestsofallpartiestosenddownbrilliantyoungmentothe"provinces，"tobe，ingoodtime，returnedbythemtothenationalassemblies。

Asthisisnotapoliticalarticlethesimpleindicationofthesetwocauseswillsuffice，withoutenteringintothequestionoftheirreasonablenessoroftheirjustice。Thesocialbearingofsuchaconditionisheretheonlysideofthequestionunderdiscussion；itisdifficulttoover-ratetheinfluencethataman"sfamilyexertoverhisdecisions。

Politicalambitionisexceedinglyrareamongourwomenofposition；

whentheAmericanhusbandisbittenwithit，thewifesubmitsto，ratherthanabets，hisinclinations。Inmostcasesourwomenarenotcosmopolitanenoughtoenjoybeingtransplantedfarawayfromtheirfriendsandrelations，eventofillpositionsofimportanceandhonor。ANewYorkwomanofgreatfranknessandintelligence，whofoundherselfrecentlyinaWesterncityunderthesecircumstances，said，inanswertoaflatteringremarkthat"theladiesoftheplaceexpectedhertobecometheirsocialleader，""I

don"tseeanythingtolead，"thusveryplainlyexpressingheropinionofthesituation。ItishardlyfairtoexpectawomanaccustomedtothelifeofNewYorkortheforeigncapitals，tolookforwardwithenthusiasmtoatermofyearspassedinAlbany，orinWashington。

InFranceverymuchthesamestateofaffairshasbeenreachedbyquiteadifferentroute。Thearistocracydetestthepresentgovernment，anditisnotconsidered"goodform"bythemtositintheChamberofDeputiesortoacceptanybutdiplomaticpositions。

Theycondescendtofillthelatterbecausethatentailslivingawayfromtheirowncountry，astheyfeelmoreateaseinforeigncourtsthanattheRepublicanreceptionsoftheElysee。

Thereisadeplorabletendencyamongourself-styledaristocracytolookupontheircircleasaclassapart。Theyseparatethemselvesmoreeachyearfromthelifeofthecountry，andaffecttosmileatanyoftheirnumberwhohonestlywishtobeofservicetothenation。They，liketheFrencharistocracy，areperfectlywilling，evenanxious，tofillagreeablediplomaticpostsatfirst-classforeigncapitals，andarenaivelyastonishedwhentheiroffersofservicearenotacceptedwithgratitudebytheauthoritiesinWashington。Butletahusbandproposetohisbetterhalfsomehumblepositioninthemachineryofourgovernment，andseewhatthelady"sanswerwillbe。

Theopinionprevailsamongalargeclassofourwealthyandcultivatedpeople，thattogointopubliclifeistodescendtodutiesbeneaththem。Theyjudgethemenwhooccupysuchpositionswithinsultingseverity，classingthemintheirmindsascorruptandself-seeking，thanwhichnothingcanbemorechildishormoreimbecile。Anyobserverwhohaslivedinthedifferentgradesofsocietywillquicklyrenouncethepuerileideathatsportingorintellectualpursuitsarealoneworthyofagentleman"sattention。

Thisverypoliticallife，whichappearsunworthyoftheirattentiontosomanymen，is，inreality，thegreatfieldwherethenationsoftheworldfightouttheirdifferences，wheretheseedissownthatwillripenlaterintovastcropsoftruthandjustice。Itis(ifrightlyregardedandhonestlyfollowed)thebattle-groundwhereman"shighestqualitiesareputtotheirnoblestuse-thatofworkingforthehappinessofothers。

CHAPTER14-TheSmallSummerHotelWEcertainlyarethemosteccentricraceonthesurfaceoftheglobeandoughttobeadelighttothesoulofanexplorer，sofullisourcivilizationofcontradictions，unexplainedhabitsandcuriouscustoms。Itisquiteunnecessaryfortheinquisitivegentlemenwhopasstheirtimepryingintootherpeople"saffairsandthenreturninghometowritebooksabouttheirdiscoveries，torisktheirlivesanddigestionsinlongjourneysintoCentralAfricaortothefrozenzones，whilesomuchgoodmaterialliesreadytotheirhandsinourownland。Thehabitsofthe"natives"

inNewEnglandalonemightoccupyanactivemindindefinitely，offeringasinterestingproblemsasanytobesolvedbypenetratingCentralAsiaorvisitingtheman-eatingtribesofAustralia。

Perhapsoneofourscientificcelebrities，beforeundertakinghisnextlongvoyage，willfindtimetomakeobservationsathomeandcollectsufficientdatatoanswersomequestionsthathavelongpuzzledmyunscientificbrain。Hewouldbedoinggoodwork。Fameandhonorsawaitthemanwhocanexplainwhy，forinstance，saneAmericansofthebetterclass，withmoneyenoughtochoosetheirsurroundings，shouldpasssomuchoftheirtimeinhotelsandboardinghouses。Theremustbeareasonforthevogueoftheseretreats-everyactionhasacause，howeverremote。Ishallawaitwiththedeepestinterestapaperonthissubjectfromoneofourgreatexplorers，untowardcircumstanceshavingsometimeagoforcedmetopassafewdaysinapopularestablishmentofthisclass。

DuringmyvisitIamusedmyselfbyobservingtheinmatesandtryingtodiscoverwhytheyhadcomethere。SofarasIcouldfindout，thegreaterpartofthembelongedtoourwell-to-doclass，andwhenathomedoubtlesslivedinluxurioushousesandwerewaitedonbytrainedservants。InthesmallsummerhotelwhereImetthem，theywerelivingindrearylittletenbytwelvefootrooms，containingonlytheabsolutenecessitiesofexistence，awash-stand，abureau，twochairsandabed。Andsuchabed!Onemattressaboutfourinchesthickoversqueakingslats，cottonsheets，sonicelycalculatedtothesizeofthebedthattheslightestmoveonthepartofthesleeperwoulddetachthemfromtheirmooringsandundothehousemaid"swork；twolimp，discouragedpillowsthathadevidentlybeen"banting，"andafewtowelsafootlongwithasurfacelikesand-paper，completedthefittingsoftheroom。Bathswereunknown，andhotwaterwasaluxurydistributedsparinglybyacapricioushandmaiden。Itisonlyfairtoaddthateverythingintheroomwasperfectlyclean，aswasthecoarsetablelineninthediningroom。

Themealswereinharmonywiththeroomsandfurniture，consistingonlyofthestrictnecessities，cookedwithaSpartandisregardforsuchsybaritefoiblesasseasoningordressing。Ibelievetherewasasubstantialmealsomewhereintheearlymorninghours，butI

neversucceededingettingdownintimetoinspectit。Bysuccessfulbribery，Iinducedoneofthevillagebelles，whoservedattable，tobringacupofcoffeetomyroom。Thefirstmorningitappearedalreadypouredoutinthecup，withsugarandcoldmilkaddedatherdiscretion。Atoneo"clockadinnerwasserved，consistingofsoup(occasionally)，onemeatdishandattendantvegetables，ameagredessert，andnothingelse。Athalf-pastsixtherewasanequallyrudimentarymeal，called"tea，"afterwhichnofurtherfoodwasdistributedtotheinmates，whoall，however，seemedperfectlycontentedwiththisarrangement。Infacttheyapparentlylookedontheactofeatingasadisagreeabletask，tobehurriedthroughassoonaspossiblethattheymightreturntotheiraimlessrockingandchattering。

Insteadofdinnerhourbeingthefeatureoftheday，unitingpeoplearoundanattractivetable，andattendedbyconversation，andthemeallastinglongenoughforone"sfoodtobeproperlyeaten，itwasrushedthroughasthoughwewerealltryingtocatchatrain。

Then，whenthemealwasover，theboardersrelapsedintoapathyagain。

Nooneevercalledthishospitablehomeaboarding-house，fortheproprietorwasfuriousifitwasgiventhatname。Healsoscornedtheideaofkeepingahotel。SothatIneverquiteunderstoodinwhatrelationhestoodtowardus。Hecertainlyconsideredhimselfourhost，andignoredthefinancialsideofthequestionseverely。

Inordernottohurthisfeelingsbyspeakingtohimofmoney，wewereobligedtogetourbillsbystrategyfromamalesubordinate。

Minehostandhisfamilywereapparentlyunawarethattherewerepeopleundertheirroofwhopaidthemforboardandlodging。Wewerealllookeduponasguestsand"entertained，"andourrightsimpartiallyignored。

Nothing，Ifind，issodistinctiveofNewEnglandasthisgracefulveilingofthepracticalsideoflife。Thelandladyalwaysremindedme，byhermanner，ofBarrie"sdescriptionofthebill-

sticker"swifewho"cut"herhusbandwhenshechancedtomeethim"professionally"engaged。Asaresultofthisextremedetachmentfromthingsmaterial，thehouseranitself，orwasrunbyincompetentIrishandnegro"help。"Therewerenobellsintherooms，whichsimplifiedtheservice，andnothingcouldbeorderedoutofmealhours。

Thematerialdefectsinboardandlodgingsink，however，intoinsignificancebeforethemoralandsocialunpleasantnessofanestablishmentsuchasthis。Allages，allconditions，andallcreedsarepromiscuouslyhuddledtogether。Itisimpossibletochoosewhomoneshallknoworwhomavoid。Ahorribleburlesqueoffamilylifeisenabled，withallitsinconveniencesandnoneofitssanctity。Peoplefromdifferentcities，withdifferentinterestsandstandards，areexpectedto"chum"togetherinanintimacythatbeginswiththeeighto"clockbreakfastandendsonlywhenallretireforthenight。Noprivacy，noisolationisallowed。Ifyoutakeabookandbegintoreadinaremotecornerofaparlororpiazza，someidlematronoridioticgirlwilltranquillyinvadeyourpoorlittlebitofprivacyandgabbleofheraffairsandtheday"sgossip。Thereisnoescapeunlessyoumounttoyourten-by-

twelvecellandsit(likethePremiersofEnglandwhentheyvisitBalmoral)onthebed，todoyourwriting，forwantofanyotherconveniences。Evensuchretirementisresentedbytheboarders。

Youarethoughttobehaughtyandtogiveyourselfairsifyoudonotsitfortwelveconsecutivehourseachdayinunendingconversationwiththem。

Whenonereflectsthatthousandsofourcountrymenpassatleastone-halfoftheirlivesintheseasylums，andthatthousandsmoreinAmericaknownootherhomes，butmovefromonehoteltoanother，whilethesameoutlaywouldprocurethemcosy，cheerfuldwellings，itdoesseemasifthesemodernArabs，Holmes"s"FoldingBed-

ouins，"weregraduallyreturningtoprehistorichabitsandwouldendbyeatingrootspromiscuouslyincaves。

Thecontradictionappearsmoremarkedthelongeronereflectsontheloveofindependenceandimpatienceofallrestraintthatcharacterizeourrace。IfsuchaninstitutionhadbeenconceivedbypeopleoftheOldWorld，accustomedtomoralslaveryandtoathousandpettytyrannies，itwouldnotbesoremarkable，butthatwe，ofalltheracesoftheearth，shouldhavecreatedaformoftortureunknowntoLouisXI。ortotheSpanishInquisitors，isindeedinexplicable!Outsideofthishappylandtheinstitutionisunknown。ThePENSIONwhenitexistsabroad，isonlyanexoticgrowthforanAmericanmarket。AmongEuropeannationsitisundreamedof；thepoorestwhentheytraveltakefurnishedrooms，wheretheyareservedinprivate，orgotorestaurantsorTABLE

D"HOTESfortheirmeals。Inastrictlycontinentalhotelthepublicparlordoesnotexist。Peopledonottraveltomakeacquaintances，butforhealthorrecreation，ortoimprovetheirminds。TheenforcedintimacyofourAmericanfamilyhouse，withitsattendantquarrellingandback-biting，isaninflictionofwhichEuropeansareinhappyignorance。

Oneexplanation，only，occurstome，whichisthatamongNewEnglandpeople，largelydescendedfromPuritanstock，therestilllingerssomeblindimpulseatself-mortification，anhereditaryinclinationtomakethislifeasdisagreeableaspossiblebyself-

immolation。Theirancestors，wearetoldbyMacaulay，suppressedbullbaiting，notbecauseithurtthebull，butbecauseitgavepleasuretothepeople。HereinNewEnglandtheyrefusedtheRomandogmaofPurgatoryandthenwithcompleteinconsistency，inventedtheboarding-house，inorder，doubtless，totakeasmuchofthejoyaspossibleoutofthislife，asapreparationforendlessblissinthenext。