第2章

Ifoundmyselfstanding，whenagleamofconsciousnesscameuponme，holdingontosomething。Idon"tknowwhat。Ithinkitwastheboatswain:oritmayhavebeenthepump:orpossiblythecow。

Ican"tsayhowlongIhadbeenthere；whetheradayoraminute。

Irecollecttryingtothinkaboutsomething(aboutanythinginthewholewideworld，Iwasnotparticular)withoutthesmallesteffect。Icouldnotevenmakeoutwhichwasthesea，andwhichthesky，forthehorizonseemeddrunk，andwasflyingwildlyaboutinalldirections。Eveninthatincapablestate，however，I

recognisedthelazygentlemanstandingbeforeme:nauticallycladinasuitofshaggyblue，withanoilskinhat。ButIwastooimbecile，althoughIknewittobehe，toseparatehimfromhisdress；andtriedtocallhim，Iremember，PILOT。Afteranotherintervaloftotalunconsciousness，Ifoundhehadgone，andrecognisedanotherfigureinitsplace。ItseemedtowaveandfluctuatebeforemeasthoughIsawitreflectedinanunsteadylooking-glass；butIknewitforthecaptain；andsuchwasthecheerfulinfluenceofhisface，thatItriedtosmile:yes，eventhenItriedtosmile。Isawbyhisgesturesthatheaddressedme；

butitwasalongtimebeforeIcouldmakeoutthatheremonstratedagainstmystandinguptomykneesinwater-asIwas；ofcourseI

don"tknowwhy。Itriedtothankhim，butcouldn"t。Icouldonlypointtomyboots-orwhereverIsupposedmybootstobe-andsayinaplaintivevoice，"Corksoles:"atthesametimeendeavouring，Iamtold，tositdowninthepool。FindingthatIwasquiteinsensible，andforthetimeamaniac，hehumanelyconductedmebelow。

ThereIremaineduntilIgotbetter:suffering，wheneverIwasrecommendedtoeatanything，anamountofanguishonlysecondtothatwhichissaidtobeenduredbytheapparentlydrowned，intheprocessofrestorationtolife。OnegentlemanonboardhadaletterofintroductiontomefromamutualfriendinLondon。Hesentitbelowwithhiscard，onthemorningofthehead-wind；andI

waslongtroubledwiththeideathathemightbeup，andwell，andahundredtimesadayexpectingmetocalluponhiminthesaloon。

Iimaginedhimoneofthosecast-ironimages-Iwillnotcallthemmen-whoask，withredfaces，andlustyvoices，whatsea-sicknessmeans，andwhetheritreallyisasbadasitisrepresentedtobe。

Thiswasverytorturingindeed；andIdon"tthinkIeverfeltsuchperfectgratificationandgratitudeofheart，asIdidwhenIheardfromtheship"sdoctorthathehadbeenobligedtoputalargemustardpoulticeonthisverygentleman"sstomach。Idatemyrecoveryfromthereceiptofthatintelligence。

Itwasmateriallyassistedthough，Ihavenodoubt，byaheavygaleofwind，whichcameslowlyupatsunset，whenwewereabouttendaysout，andragedwithgraduallyincreasingfuryuntilmorning，savingthatitlulledforanhouralittlebeforemidnight。Therewassomethingintheunnaturalreposeofthathour，andintheaftergatheringofthestorm，soinconceivablyawfulandtremendous，thatitsburstingintofullviolencewasalmostarelief。

ThelabouringoftheshipinthetroubledseaonthisnightIshallneverforget。"Williteverbeworsethanthis？"wasaquestionI

hadoftenheardasked，wheneverythingwasslidingandbumpingabout，andwhenitcertainlydidseemdifficulttocomprehendthepossibilityofanythingafloatbeingmoredisturbed，withouttopplingoverandgoingdown。Butwhattheagitationofasteam-

vesselis，onabadwinter"snightinthewildAtlantic，itisimpossibleforthemostvividimaginationtoconceive。Tosaythatsheisflungdownonhersideinthewaves，withhermastsdippingintothem，andthat，springingupagain，sherollsoverontheotherside，untilaheavyseastrikesherwiththenoiseofahundredgreatguns，andhurlsherback-thatshestops，andstaggers，andshivers，asthoughstunned，andthen，withaviolentthrobbingatherheart，dartsonwardlikeamonstergoadedintomadness，tobebeatendown，andbattered，andcrushed，andleapedonbytheangrysea-thatthunder，lightning，hail，andrain，andwind，areallinfiercecontentionforthemastery-thateveryplankhasitsgroan，everynailitsshriek，andeverydropofwaterinthegreatoceanitshowlingvoice-isnothing。Tosaythatallisgrand，andallappallingandhorribleinthelastdegree，isnothing。Wordscannotexpressit。Thoughtscannotconveyit。

Onlyadreamcancallitupagain，inallitsfury，rage，andpassion。

Andyet，intheverymidstoftheseterrors，Iwasplacedinasituationsoexquisitelyridiculous，thateventhenIhadasstrongasenseofitsabsurdityasIhavenow，andcouldnomorehelplaughingthanIcanatanyothercomicalincident，happeningundercircumstancesthemostfavourabletoitsenjoyment。Aboutmidnightweshippedasea，whichforceditswaythroughtheskylights，burstopenthedoorsabove，andcameragingandroaringdownintotheladies"cabin，totheunspeakableconsternationofmywifeandalittleScotchlady-who，bytheway，hadpreviouslysentamessagetothecaptainbythestewardess，requestinghim，withhercompliments，tohaveasteelconductorimmediatelyattachedtothetopofeverymast，andtothechimney，inorderthattheshipmightnotbestruckbylightning。Theyandthehandmaidbeforementioned，beinginsuchecstasiesoffearthatIscarcelyknewwhattodowiththem，Inaturallybethoughtmyselfofsomerestorativeorcomfortablecordial；andnothingbetteroccurringtome，atthemoment，thanhotbrandy-and-water，Iprocuredatumblerfullwithoutdelay。Itbeingimpossibletostandorsitwithoutholdingon，theywereallheapedtogetherinonecornerofalongsofa-afixtureextendingentirelyacrossthecabin-wheretheyclungtoeachotherinmomentaryexpectationofbeingdrowned。

WhenIapproachedthisplacewithmyspecific，andwasabouttoadministeritwithmanyconsolatoryexpressionstothenearestsufferer，whatwasmydismaytoseethemallrollslowlydowntotheotherend!AndwhenIstaggeredtothatend，andheldouttheglassoncemore，howimmenselybaffledweremygoodintentionsbytheshipgivinganotherlurch，andtheirallrollingbackagain!I

supposeIdodgedthemupanddownthissofaforatleastaquarterofanhour，withoutreachingthemonce；andbythetimeIdidcatchthem，thebrandy-and-waterwasdiminished，byconstantspilling，toateaspoonful。Tocompletethegroup，itisnecessarytorecogniseinthisdisconcerteddodger，anindividualverypalefromsea-

sickness，whohadshavedhisbeardandbrushedhishair，last，atLiverpool:andwhoseonlyarticleofdress(linennotincluded)

wereapairofdreadnoughttrousers；abluejacket，formerlyadmiredupontheThamesatRichmond；nostockings；andoneslipper。

Oftheoutrageousanticsperformedbythatshipnextmorning；whichmadebedapracticaljoke，andgettingup，byanyprocessshortoffallingout，animpossibility；Isaynothing。ButanythingliketheutterdrearinessanddesolationthatmetmyeyeswhenI

literally"tumbledup"ondeckatnoon，Ineversaw。Oceanandskywereallofonedull，heavy，uniform，leadcolour。Therewasnoextentofprospectevenoverthedrearywastethatlayaroundus，forthesearanhigh，andthehorizonencompasseduslikealargeblackhoop。Viewedfromtheair，orsometallbluffonshore，itwouldhavebeenimposingandstupendous，nodoubt；butseenfromthewetandrollingdecks，itonlyimpressedonegiddilyandpainfully。Inthegaleoflastnightthelife-boathadbeencrushedbyoneblowofthesealikeawalnut-shell；andthereithungdanglingintheair:amerefaggotofcrazyboards。Theplankingofthepaddle-boxeshadbeentornsheeraway。Thewheelswereexposedandbare；andtheywhirledanddashedtheirsprayaboutthedecksatrandom。Chimney，whitewithcrustedsalt；

topmastsstruck；storm-sailsset；riggingallknotted，tangled，wet，anddrooping:agloomierpictureitwouldbehardtolookupon。

Iwasnowcomfortablyestablishedbycourtesyintheladies"cabin，where，besidesourselves，therewereonlyfourotherpassengers。

First，thelittleScotchladybeforementioned，onherwaytojoinherhusbandatNewYork，whohadsettledtherethreeyearsbefore。

Secondlyandthirdly，anhonestyoungYorkshireman，connectedwithsomeAmericanhouse；domiciledinthatsamecity，andcarryingthitherhisbeautifulyoungwifetowhomhehadbeenmarriedbutafortnight，andwhowasthefairestspecimenofacomelyEnglishcountrygirlIhaveeverseen。Fourthy，fifthly，andlastly，anothercouple:newlymarriedtoo，ifonemightjudgefromtheendearmentstheyfrequentlyinterchanged:ofwhomIknownomorethanthattheywereratheramysterious，run-awaykindofcouple；

thattheladyhadgreatpersonalattractionsalso；andthatthegentlemancarriedmoregunswithhimthanRobinsonCrusoe，woreashooting-coat，andhadtwogreatdogsonboard。Onfurtherconsideration，Irememberthathetriedhotroastpigandbottledaleasacureforsea-sickness；andthathetooktheseremedies(usuallyinbed)dayafterday，withastonishingperseverance。I

mayadd，fortheinformationofthecurious，thattheydecidedlyfailed。

Theweathercontinuingobstinatelyandalmostunprecedentedlybad，weusuallystraggledintothiscabin，moreorlessfaintandmiserable，aboutanhourbeforenoon，andlaydownonthesofastorecover；duringwhichinterval，thecaptainwouldlookintocommunicatethestateofthewind，themoralcertaintyofitschangingto-morrow(theweatherisalwaysgoingtoimproveto-

morrow，atsea)，thevessel"srateofsailing，andsoforth。

Observationstherewerenonetotellusof，fortherewasnosuntotakethemby。Butadescriptionofonedaywillserveforalltherest。Hereitis。

Thecaptainbeinggone，wecomposeourselvestoread，iftheplacebelightenough；andifnot，wedozeandtalkalternately。Atone，abellrings，andthestewardesscomesdownwithasteamingdishofbakedpotatoes，andanotherofroastedapples；andplatesofpig"sface，coldham，saltbeef；orperhapsasmokingmessofrarehotcollops。Wefalltouponthesedainties；eatasmuchaswecan(wehavegreatappetitesnow)；andareaslongaspossibleaboutit。

Ifthefirewillburn(itWILLsometimes)weareprettycheerful。

Ifitwon"t，weallremarktoeachotherthatit"sverycold，rubourhands，coverourselveswithcoatsandcloaks，andliedownagaintodoze，talk，andread(providedasaforesaid)，untildinner-time。Atfive，anotherbellrings，andthestewardessreappearswithanotherdishofpotatoes-boiledthistime-andstoreofhotmeatofvariouskinds:notforgettingtheroastpig，tobetakenmedicinally。Wesitdownattableagain(rathermorecheerfullythanbefore)；prolongthemealwitharathermouldydessertofapples，grapes，andoranges；anddrinkourwineandbrandy-and-water。Thebottlesandglassesarestilluponthetable，andtheorangesandsofortharerollingaboutaccordingtotheirfancyandtheship"sway，whenthedoctorcomesdown，byspecialnightlyinvitation，tojoinoureveningrubber:

immediatelyonwhosearrivalwemakeapartyatwhist，andasitisaroughnightandthecardswillnotlieonthecloth，weputthetricksinourpocketsaswetakethem。Atwhistweremainwithexemplarygravity(deductingashorttimeforteaandtoast)untileleveno"clock，orthereabouts；whenthecaptaincomesdownagain，inasou"-westerhattiedunderhischin，andapilot-coat:makingthegroundwetwherehestands。Bythistimethecard-playingisover，andthebottlesandglassesareagainuponthetable；andafteranhour"spleasantconversationabouttheship，thepassengers，andthingsingeneral，thecaptain(whonevergoestobed，andisneveroutofhumour)turnsuphiscoatcollarforthedeckagain；shakeshandsallround；andgoeslaughingoutintotheweatherasmerrilyastoabirthdayparty。

Astodailynews，thereisnodearthofthatcommodity。ThispassengerisreportedtohavelostfourteenpoundsatVingt-et-uninthesaloonyesterday；andthatpassengerdrinkshisbottleofchampagneeveryday，andhowhedoesit(beingonlyaclerk)，nobodyknows。Theheadengineerhasdistinctlysaidthatthereneverwassuchtimes-meaningweather-andfourgoodhandsareill，andhavegivenin，deadbeat。Severalberthsarefullofwater，andallthecabinsareleaky。Theship"scook，secretlyswiggingdamagedwhiskey，hasbeenfounddrunk；andhasbeenplayeduponbythefire-engineuntilquitesober。Allthestewardshavefallendown-stairsatvariousdinner-times，andgoaboutwithplastersinvariousplaces。Thebakerisill，andsoisthepastry-cook。Anewman，horriblyindisposed，hasbeenrequiredtofilltheplaceofthelatterofficer；andhasbeenproppedandjammedupwithemptycasksinalittlehouseupondeck，andcommandedtorolloutpie-crust，whichheprotests(beinghighlybilious)itisdeathtohimtolookat。News!Adozenmurdersonshorewouldlacktheinterestoftheseslightincidentsatsea。

Dividedbetweenourrubberandsuchtopicsasthese，wewererunning(aswethought)intoHalifaxHarbour，onthefifteenthnight，withlittlewindandabrightmoon-indeed，wehadmadetheLightatitsouterentrance，andputthepilotincharge-whensuddenlytheshipstruckuponabankofmud。Animmediaterushondecktookplaceofcourse；thesideswerecrowdedinaninstant；

andforafewminuteswewereinaslivelyastateofconfusionasthegreatestloverofdisorderwoulddesiretosee。Thepassengers，andguns，andwater-casks，andotherheavymatters，beingallhuddledtogetheraft，however，tolightenherinthehead，shewassoongotoff；andaftersomedrivingontowardsanuncomfortablelineofobjects(whosevicinityhadbeenannouncedveryearlyinthedisasterbyaloudcryof"Breakersa-head!")andmuchbackingofpaddles，andheavingoftheleadintoaconstantlydecreasingdepthofwater，wedroppedanchorinastrangeoutlandish-lookingnookwhichnobodyonboardcouldrecognise，althoughtherewaslandallaboutus，andsoclosethatwecouldplainlyseethewavingbranchesofthetrees。

Itwasstrangeenough，inthesilenceofmidnight，andthedeadstillnessthatseemedtobecreatedbythesuddenandunexpectedstoppageoftheenginewhichhadbeenclankingandblastinginourearsincessantlyforsomanydays，towatchthelookofblankastonishmentexpressedineveryface:beginningwiththeofficers，tracingitthroughallthepassengers，anddescendingtotheverystokersandfurnacemen，whoemergedfrombelow，onebyone，andclusteredtogetherinasmokygroupaboutthehatchwayoftheengine-room，comparingnotesinwhispers。Afterthrowingupafewrocketsandfiringsignalgunsinthehopeofbeinghailedfromtheland，oratleastofseeingalight-butwithoutanyothersightorsoundpresentingitself-itwasdeterminedtosendaboatonshore。Itwasamusingtoobservehowverykindsomeofthepassengerswere，involunteeringtogoashoreinthissameboat:

forthegeneralgood，ofcourse:notbyanymeansbecausetheythoughttheshipinanunsafeposition，orcontemplatedthepossibilityofherheelingoverincasethetidewererunningout。

Norwasitlessamusingtoremarkhowdesperatelyunpopularthepoorpilotbecameinoneshortminute。HehadhadhispassageoutfromLiverpool，andduringthewholevoyagehadbeenquiteanotoriouscharacter，asatellerofanecdotesandcrackerofjokes。

Yethereweretheverymenwhohadlaughedtheloudestathisjests，nowflourishingtheirfistsinhisface，loadinghimwithimprecations，anddefyinghimtohisteethasavillain!

Theboatsoonshovedoff，withalanternandsundrybluelightsonboard；andinlessthananhourreturned；theofficerincommandbringingwithhimatolerablytallyoungtree，whichhehadpluckedupbytheroots，tosatisfycertaindistrustfulpassengerswhosemindsmisgavethemthattheyweretobeimposeduponandshipwrecked，andwhowouldonnoothertermsbelievethathehadbeenashore，orhaddoneanythingbutfraudulentlyrowalittlewayintothemist，speciallytodeceivethemandcompasstheirdeaths。

OurcaptainhadforeseenfromthefirstthatwemustbeinaplacecalledtheEasternpassage；andsowewere。Itwasaboutthelastplaceintheworldinwhichwehadanybusinessorreasontobe，butasuddenfog，andsomeerroronthepilot"spart，werethecause。Weweresurroundedbybanks，androcks，andshoalsofallkinds，buthadhappilydrifted，itseemed，upontheonlysafespeckthatwastobefoundthereabouts。Easedbythisreport，andbytheassurancethatthetidewaspasttheebb，weturnedinatthreeo"clockinthemorning。

Iwasdressingabouthalf-pastninenextday，whenthenoiseabovehurriedmeondeck。WhenIhadleftitovernight，itwasdark，foggy，anddamp，andtherewerebleakhillsallroundus。Now，wewereglidingdownasmooth，broadstream，attherateofelevenmilesanhour:ourcoloursflyinggaily；ourcrewriggedoutintheirsmartestclothes；ourofficersinuniformagain；thesunshiningasonabrilliantAprildayinEngland；thelandstretchedoutoneitherside，streakedwithlightpatchesofsnow；whitewoodenhouses；peopleattheirdoors；telegraphsworking；flagshoisted；wharfsappearing；ships；quayscrowdedwithpeople；

distantnoises；shouts；menandboysrunningdownsteepplacestowardsthepier:allmorebrightandgayandfreshtoourunusedeyesthanwordscanpaintthem。Wecametoawharf，pavedwithupliftedfaces；gotalongside，andweremadefast，aftersomeshoutingandstrainingofcables；darted，ascoreofusalongthegangway，almostassoonasitwasthrustouttomeetus，andbeforeithadreachedtheship-andleapeduponthefirmgladearthagain!

IsupposethisHalifaxwouldhaveappearedanElysium，thoughithadbeenacuriosityofuglydulness。ButIcarriedawaywithmeamostpleasantimpressionofthetownanditsinhabitants，andhavepreservedittothishour。NorwasitwithoutregretthatIcamehome，withouthavingfoundanopportunityofreturningthither，andoncemoreshakinghandswiththefriendsImadethatday。

IthappenedtobetheopeningoftheLegislativeCouncilandGeneralAssembly，atwhichceremonialtheformsobservedonthecommencementofanewSessionofParliamentinEnglandweresocloselycopied，andsogravelypresentedonasmallscale，thatitwaslikelookingatWestminsterthroughthewrongendofatelescope。Thegovernor，asherMajesty"srepresentative，deliveredwhatmaybecalledtheSpeechfromtheThrone。Hesaidwhathehadtosaymanfullyandwell。Themilitarybandoutsidethebuildingstruckup"GodsavetheQueen"withgreatvigourbeforehisExcellencyhadquitefinished；thepeopleshouted；thein"srubbedtheirhands；theout"sshooktheirheads；theGovernmentpartysaidthereneverwassuchagoodspeech；theOppositiondeclaredthereneverwassuchabadone；theSpeakerandmembersoftheHouseofAssemblywithdrewfromthebartosayagreatdealamongthemselvesanddoalittle:and，inshort，everythingwenton，andpromisedtogoon，justasitdoesathomeuponthelikeoccasions。

Thetownisbuiltonthesideofahill，thehighestpointbeingcommandedbyastrongfortress，notyetquitefinished。Severalstreetsofgoodbreadthandappearanceextendfromitssummittothewater-side，andareintersectedbycrossstreetsrunningparallelwiththeriver。Thehousesarechieflyofwood。Themarketisabundantlysupplied；andprovisionsareexceedinglycheap。Theweatherbeingunusuallymildatthattimefortheseasonoftheyear，therewasnosleighing:buttherewereplentyofthosevehiclesinyardsandby-places，andsomeofthem，fromthegorgeousqualityoftheirdecorations，mighthave"goneon"

withoutalterationastriumphalcarsinamelodramaatAstley"s。

Thedaywasuncommonlyfine；theairbracingandhealthful；thewholeaspectofthetowncheerful，thriving，andindustrious。

Welaytheresevenhours，todeliverandexchangethemails。Atlength，havingcollectedallourbagsandallourpassengers(includingtwoorthreechoicespirits，who，havingindulgedtoofreelyinoystersandchampagne，werefoundlyinginsensibleontheirbacksinunfrequentedstreets)，theengineswereagainputinmotion，andwestoodoffforBoston。

EncounteringsquallyweatheragainintheBayofFundy，wetumbledandrolledaboutasusualallthatnightandallnextday。Onthenextafternoon，thatistosay，onSaturday，thetwenty-secondofJanuary，anAmericanpilot-boatcamealongside，andsoonafterwardstheBritanniasteam-packet，fromLiverpool，eighteendaysout，wastelegraphedatBoston。

TheindescribableinterestwithwhichIstrainedmyeyes，asthefirstpatchesofAmericansoilpeepedlikemolehillsfromthegreensea，andfollowedthem，astheyswelled，byslowandalmostimperceptibledegrees，intoacontinuouslineofcoast，canhardlybeexaggerated。Asharpkeenwindblewdeadagainstus；ahardfrostprevailedonshore；andthecoldwasmostsevere。Yettheairwassointenselyclear，anddry，andbright，thatthetemperaturewasnotonlyendurable，butdelicious。

HowIremainedondeck，staringaboutme，untilwecamealongsidethedock，andhow，thoughIhadhadasmanyeyesasArgus，Ishouldhavehadthemallwideopen，andallemployedonnewobjects-aretopicswhichIwillnotprolongthischaptertodiscuss。NeitherwillImorethanhintatmyforeigner-likemistakeinsupposingthatapartyofmostactivepersons，whoscrambledonboardattheperiloftheirlivesasweapproachedthewharf，werenewsmen，answeringtothatindustriousclassathome；whereas，despitetheleathernwalletsofnewsslungaboutthenecksofsome，andthebroadsheetsinthehandsofall，theywereEditors，whoboardedshipsinperson(asonegentlemaninaworstedcomforterinformedme)，"becausetheylikedtheexcitementofit。"Sufficeitinthisplacetosay，thatoneoftheseinvaders，withareadycourtesyforwhichIthankhimheremostgratefully，wentonbeforetoorderroomsatthehotel；andthatwhenIfollowed，asIsoondid，I

foundmyselfrollingthroughthelongpassageswithaninvoluntaryimitationofthegaitofMr。T。P。Cooke，inanewnauticalmelodrama。

"Dinner，ifyouplease，"saidItothewaiter。

"When？"saidthewaiter。

"Asquickaspossible，"saidI。

"Rightaway？"saidthewaiter。

Afteramoment"shesitation，Ianswered"No，"athazard。

"NOTrightaway？"criedthewaiter，withanamountofsurprisethatmademestart。

Ilookedathimdoubtfully，andreturned，"No；Iwouldratherhaveitinthisprivateroom。Ilikeitverymuch。"

Atthis，Ireallythoughtthewaitermusthavegoneoutofhismind:asIbelievehewouldhavedone，butfortheinterpositionofanotherman，whowhisperedinhisear，"Directly。"

"Well!andthat"safact!"saidthewaiter，lookinghelplesslyatme:"Rightaway。"

Isawnowthat"Rightaway"and"Directly"wereoneandthesamething。SoIreversedmypreviousanswer，andsatdowntodinnerintenminutesafterwards；andacapitaldinneritwas。

Thehotel(averyexcellentone)iscalledtheTremontHouse。Ithasmoregalleries，colonnades，piazzas，andpassagesthanIcanremember，orthereaderwouldbelieve。

CHAPTERIII-BOSTON

INallthepublicestablishmentsofAmerica，theutmostcourtesyprevails。MostofourDepartmentsaresusceptibleofconsiderableimprovementinthisrespect，buttheCustom-houseaboveallotherswoulddowelltotakeexamplefromtheUnitedStatesandrenderitselfsomewhatlessodiousandoffensivetoforeigners。TheservilerapacityoftheFrenchofficialsissufficientlycontemptible；butthereisasurlyboorishincivilityaboutourmen，alikedisgustingtoallpersonswhofallintotheirhands，anddiscreditabletothenationthatkeepssuchill-conditionedcurssnarlingaboutitsgates。

WhenIlandedinAmerica，IcouldnothelpbeingstronglyimpressedwiththecontrasttheirCustom-housepresented，andtheattention，politenessandgoodhumourwithwhichitsofficersdischargedtheirduty。

AswedidnotlandatBoston，inconsequenceofsomedetentionatthewharf，untilafterdark，IreceivedmyfirstimpressionsofthecityinwalkingdowntotheCustom-houseonthemorningafterourarrival，whichwasSunday。Iamafraidtosay，bytheway，howmanyoffersofpewsandseatsinchurchforthatmorningweremadetous，byformalnoteofinvitation，beforewehadhalffinishedourfirstdinnerinAmerica，butifImaybeallowedtomakeamoderateguess，withoutgoingintonicercalculation，Ishouldsaythatatleastasmanysittingswereprofferedus，aswouldhaveaccommodatedascoreortwoofgrown-upfamilies。Thenumberofcreedsandformsofreligiontowhichthepleasureofourcompanywasrequested，wasinveryfairproportion。

Notbeingable，intheabsenceofanychangeofclothes，togotochurchthatday，wewerecompelledtodeclinethesekindnesses，oneandall；andIwasreluctantlyobligedtoforegothedelightofhearingDr。Channing，whohappenedtopreachthatmorningforthefirsttimeinaverylonginterval。Imentionthenameofthisdistinguishedandaccomplishedman(withwhomIsoonafterwardshadthepleasureofbecomingpersonallyacquainted)，thatImayhavethegratificationofrecordingmyhumbletributeofadmirationandrespectforhishighabilitiesandcharacter；andfortheboldphilanthropywithwhichhehaseveropposedhimselftothatmosthideousblotandfouldisgrace-Slavery。

ToreturntoBoston。WhenIgotintothestreetsuponthisSundaymorning，theairwassoclear，thehousesweresobrightandgay:

thesignboardswerepaintedinsuchgaudycolours；thegildedlettersweresoverygolden；thebricksweresoveryred，thestonewassoverywhite，theblindsandarearailingsweresoverygreen，theknobsandplatesuponthestreetdoorssomarvellouslybrightandtwinkling；andallsoslightandunsubstantialinappearance-

thateverythoroughfareinthecitylookedexactlylikeasceneinapantomime。Itrarelyhappensinthebusinessstreetsthatatradesman，ifImayventuretocallanybodyatradesman，whereeverybodyisamerchant，residesabovehisstore；sothatmanyoccupationsareoftencarriedoninonehouse，andthewholefrontiscoveredwithboardsandinscriptions。AsIwalkedalong，Ikeptglancingupattheseboards，confidentlyexpectingtoseeafewofthemchangeintosomething；andIneverturnedacornersuddenlywithoutlookingoutfortheclownandpantaloon，who，Ihadnodoubt，werehidinginadoorwayorbehindsomepillarcloseathand。AstoHarlequinandColumbine，Idiscoveredimmediatelythattheylodged(theyarealwayslookingafterlodgingsinapantomime)

ataverysmallclockmaker"sonestoryhigh，nearthehotel；which，inadditiontovarioussymbolsanddevices，almostcoveringthewholefront，hadagreatdialhangingout-tobejumpedthrough，ofcourse。

Thesuburbsare，ifpossible，evenmoreunsubstantial-lookingthanthecity。Thewhitewoodenhouses(sowhitethatitmakesonewinktolookatthem)，withtheirgreenjalousieblinds，aresosprinkledanddroppedaboutinalldirections，withoutseemingtohaveanyrootatallintheground；andthesmallchurchesandchapelsaresoprim，andbright，andhighlyvarnished；thatI

almostbelievedthewholeaffaircouldbetakenuppiecemeallikeachild"stoy，andcrammedintoalittlebox。

Thecityisabeautifulone，andcannotfail，Ishouldimagine，toimpressallstrangersveryfavourably。Theprivatedwelling-housesare，forthemostpart，largeandelegant；theshopsextremelygood；andthepublicbuildingshandsome。TheStateHouseisbuiltuponthesummitofahill，whichrisesgraduallyatfirst，andafterwardsbyasteepascent，almostfromthewater"sedge。Infrontisagreenenclosure，calledtheCommon。Thesiteisbeautiful:andfromthetopthereisacharmingpanoramicviewofthewholetownandneighbourhood。Inadditiontoavarietyofcommodiousoffices，itcontainstwohandsomechambers；inonetheHouseofRepresentativesoftheStateholdtheirmeetings:intheother，theSenate。SuchproceedingsasIsawhere，wereconductedwithperfectgravityanddecorum；andwerecertainlycalculatedtoinspireattentionandrespect。

ThereisnodoubtthatmuchoftheintellectualrefinementandsuperiorityofBoston，isreferabletothequietinfluenceoftheUniversityofCambridge，whichiswithinthreeorfourmilesofthecity。Theresidentprofessorsatthatuniversityaregentlemenoflearningandvariedattainments；andare，withoutoneexceptionthatIcancalltomind，menwhowouldshedagraceupon，anddohonourto，anysocietyinthecivilisedworld。ManyoftheresidentgentryinBostonanditsneighbourhood，andIthinkIamnotmistakeninadding，alargemajorityofthosewhoareattachedtotheliberalprofessionsthere，havebeeneducatedatthissameschool。WhateverthedefectsofAmericanuniversitiesmaybe，theydisseminatenoprejudices；rearnobigots；diguptheburiedashesofnooldsuperstitions；neverinterposebetweenthepeopleandtheirimprovement；excludenomanbecauseofhisreligiousopinions；aboveall，intheirwholecourseofstudyandinstruction，recogniseaworld，andabroadonetoo，lyingbeyondthecollegewalls。

Itwasasourceofinexpressiblepleasuretometoobservethealmostimperceptible，butnotlesscertaineffect，wroughtbythisinstitutionamongthesmallcommunityofBoston；andtonoteateveryturnthehumanisingtastesanddesiresithasengendered；theaffectionatefriendshipstowhichithasgivenrise；theamountofvanityandprejudiceithasdispelled。ThegoldencalftheyworshipatBostonisapigmycomparedwiththegianteffigiessetupinotherpartsofthatvastcounting-housewhichliesbeyondtheAtlantic；andthealmightydollarsinksintosomethingcomparativelyinsignificant，amidstawholePantheonofbettergods。

Aboveall，IsincerelybelievethatthepublicinstitutionsandcharitiesofthiscapitalofMassachusettsareasnearlyperfect，asthemostconsideratewisdom，benevolence，andhumanity，canmakethem。Ineverinmylifewasmoreaffectedbythecontemplationofhappiness，undercircumstancesofprivationandbereavement，thaninmyvisitstotheseestablishments。

ItisagreatandpleasantfeatureofallsuchinstitutionsinAmerica，thattheyareeithersupportedbytheStateorassistedbytheState；or(intheeventoftheirnotneedingitshelpinghand)

thattheyactinconcertwithit，andareemphaticallythepeople"s。Icannotbutthink，withaviewtotheprincipleanditstendencytoelevateordepressthecharacteroftheindustriousclasses，thataPublicCharityisimmeasurablybetterthanaPrivateFoundation，nomatterhowmunificentlythelattermaybeendowed。Inourowncountry，whereithasnot，untilwithintheselaterdays，beenaverypopularfashionwithgovernmentstodisplayanyextraordinaryregardforthegreatmassofthepeopleortorecognisetheirexistenceasimprovablecreatures，privatecharities，unexampledinthehistoryoftheearth，havearisen，todoanincalculableamountofgoodamongthedestituteandafflicted。Butthegovernmentofthecountry，havingneitheractnorpartinthem，isnotinthereceiptofanyportionofthegratitudetheyinspire；and，offeringverylittleshelterorreliefbeyondthatwhichistobefoundintheworkhouseandthejail，hascome，notunnaturally，tobelookeduponbythepoorratherasasternmaster，quicktocorrectandpunish，thanakindprotector，mercifulandvigilantintheirhourofneed。

Themaximthatoutofevilcomethgood，isstronglyillustratedbytheseestablishmentsathome；astherecordsofthePrerogativeOfficeinDoctors"Commonscanabundantlyprove。Someimmenselyricholdgentlemanorlady，surroundedbyneedyrelatives，makes，uponalowaverage，awilla-week。Theoldgentlemanorlady，neververyremarkableinthebestoftimesforgoodtemper，isfullofachesandpainsfromheadtofoot；fulloffanciesandcaprices；

fullofspleen，distrust，suspicion，anddislike。Tocanceloldwills，andinventnewones，isatlastthesolebusinessofsuchatestator"sexistence；andrelationsandfriends(someofwhomhavebeenbredupdistinctlytoinheritalargeshareoftheproperty，andhavebeen，fromtheircradles，speciallydisqualifiedfromdevotingthemselvestoanyusefulpursuit，onthataccount)aresooftenandsounexpectedlyandsummarilycutoff，andreinstated，andcutoffagain，thatthewholefamily，downtotheremotestcousin，iskeptinaperpetualfever。Atlengthitbecomesplainthattheoldladyorgentlemanhasnotlongtolive；andtheplainerthisbecomes，themoreclearlytheoldladyorgentlemanperceivesthateverybodyisinaconspiracyagainsttheirpoorolddyingrelative；whereforetheoldladyorgentlemanmakesanotherlastwill-positivelythelastthistime-concealsthesameinachinateapot，andexpiresnextday。Thenitturnsout，thatthewholeoftherealandpersonalestateisdividedbetweenhalf-a-

dozencharities；andthatthedeadandgonetestatorhasinpurespitehelpedtodoagreatdealofgood，atthecostofanimmenseamountofevilpassionandmisery。

ThePerkinsInstitutionandMassachusettsAsylumfortheBlind，atBoston，issuperintendedbyabodyoftrusteeswhomakeanannualreporttothecorporation。Theindigentblindofthatstateareadmittedgratuitously。ThosefromtheadjoiningstateofConnecticut，orfromthestatesofMaine，Vermont，orNewHampshire，areadmittedbyawarrantfromthestatetowhichtheyrespectivelybelong；or，failingthat，mustfindsecurityamongtheirfriends，forthepaymentofabouttwentypoundsEnglishfortheirfirstyear"sboardandinstruction，andtenforthesecond。

"Afterthefirstyear，"saythetrustees，"anaccountcurrentwillbeopenedwitheachpupil；hewillbechargedwiththeactualcostofhisboard，whichwillnotexceedtwodollarsperweek；"atriflemorethaneightshillingsEnglish；"andhewillbecreditedwiththeamountpaidforhimbythestate，orbyhisfriends；alsowithhisearningsoverandabovethecostofthestockwhichheuses；sothatallhisearningsoveronedollarperweekwillbehisown。Bythethirdyearitwillbeknownwhetherhisearningswillmorethanpaytheactualcostofhisboard；iftheyshould，hewillhaveitathisoptiontoremainandreceivehisearnings，ornot。Thosewhoproveunabletoearntheirownlivelihoodwillnotberetained；

asitisnotdesirabletoconverttheestablishmentintoanalms-

house，ortoretainanybutworkingbeesinthehive。Thosewhobyphysicalormentalimbecilityaredisqualifiedfromwork，aretherebydisqualifiedfrombeingmembersofanindustriouscommunity；andtheycanbebetterprovidedforinestablishmentsfittedfortheinfirm。"

Iwenttoseethisplaceoneveryfinewintermorning:anItalianskyabove，andtheairsoclearandbrightoneveryside，thatevenmyeyes，whicharenoneofthebest，couldfollowtheminutelinesandscrapsoftraceryindistantbuildings。LikemostotherpublicinstitutionsinAmerica，ofthesameclass，itstandsamileortwowithoutthetown，inacheerfulhealthyspot；andisanairy，spacious，handsomeedifice。Itisbuiltuponaheight，commandingtheharbour。WhenIpausedforamomentatthedoor，andmarkedhowfreshandfreethewholescenewas-whatsparklingbubblesglanceduponthewaves，andwelledupeverymomenttothesurface，asthoughtheworldbelow，likethatabove，wereradiantwiththebrightday，andgushingoverinitsfulnessoflight:whenIgazedfromsailtosailawayuponashipatsea，atinyspeckofshiningwhite，theonlyclouduponthestill，deep，distantblue-and，turning，sawablindboywithhissightlessfaceaddressedthatway，asthoughhetoohadsomesensewithinhimofthegloriousdistance:Ifeltakindofsorrowthattheplaceshouldbesoverylight，andastrangewishthatforhissakeitweredarker。Itwasbutmomentary，ofcourse，andamerefancy，butIfeltitkeenlyforallthat。

Thechildrenwereattheirdailytasksindifferentrooms，exceptafewwhowerealreadydismissed，andwereatplay。Here，asinmanyinstitutions，nouniformisworn；andIwasverygladofit，fortworeasons。Firstly，becauseIamsurethatnothingbutsenselesscustomandwantofthoughtwouldreconcileustotheliveriesandbadgeswearesofondofathome。Secondly，becausetheabsenceofthesethingspresentseachchildtothevisitorinhisorherownpropercharacter，withitsindividualityunimpaired；notlostinadull，ugly，monotonousrepetitionofthesameunmeaninggarb:

whichisreallyanimportantconsideration。Thewisdomofencouragingalittleharmlessprideinpersonalappearanceevenamongtheblind，orthewhimsicalabsurdityofconsideringcharityandleatherbreechesinseparablecompanions，aswedo，requiresnocomment。