第8章

theactionwasexactlythatofonewhowassaying，"Idon"tparticularlywantitmyself，butI"mnotgoingtoletyouhaveit。"

Presentlysomecacciatoricamewithapoodle-dog。Theyexplainedtousthatthoughthepoodlewas"atrulyhuntingdog，"hewouldnottouchthesparrows，whichtodohimjusticehedidnot。Therewasatamejayalso，likethesparrowsgoingaboutloose，but，likethem，awarewhenhewaswelloff。

Afterdinnerwewentuptothecastle，whichIhavenowvisitedoffandonformanyyears，andlikealwaysbetterandbettereachtimeIgothere。Iknownoplacecomparabletoitinitsownway。I

knownoplacesopathetic，andyetsoimpressive，initsdecay。Itisnotaruin——allruinsarefrauds——itisonlydecayed。ItisakindofStokesayorIghthamMote，betterpreservedthanthefirst，andlessfurnishedthanthesecond，butonagranderscalethaneither，andsetinincomparablyfinersurroundings。Thepathtowardsitpassesthechurch，whichhasbeenspoiled。OutsidethistherearepartsofoldRomancolumnsfromsometemple，stuckintheground；insidearetwostatuescalledSt。PeterandSt。Paul，butevidentlyeffigiesofsomemagistratesintheRomantimes。Ifthetravellerlikestocontinuetheroadpastthechurchforthree-

quartersofamileorso，hewillgetafineviewofthecastle，andifhegoesuptothelittlechapelofS。Quiricoonthetopofthehillonhisrighthand，hewilllookdownuponitanduponArona。Wewillsuppose，however，thathegoesstraightforthecastleitself；everymomentasheapproachesit，itwillseemfinerandfiner；presentlyhewillturnintoavineyardonhisleft，andatoncebegintoclimb。

Passingundertheoldgateway——withitsportcullisstillreadytobedropped，ifneedbe，andwiththeironplatesthatsheatheitpiercedwithbullets——asatS。Michele，thevisitorentersatonceuponaterracefromwhichthetwoforegoingillustrationsweretaken。Iknownothinglikethisterrace。Onasummer"safternoonandeveningitisfullyshaded，thesunbeingbehindthecastle。

Thelakeandtownbelowarestillinsunlight。This，Ithink，isaboutthebesttimetoseethecastle——sayfromsixtoeightonaJulyevening，oratanyhouronagrayday。

CountBorromeo，towhomthecastlebelongs，allowsittobeshown，andvisitorsarenumerous。Thereisverylittlefurnitureinsidetherooms，andthelittlethereisisdecaying；thewallsarecoveredwithpictures，mostlycopies，andnoneofthemofanygreatmerit，buttheroomsthemselvesarelovely。HereisasketchoftheoneinwhichSanCarloBorromeowasborn，buttheoneonthefloorbeneathisbetterstill。Thewholeofthispartwasbuiltabouttheyear1350，andinside，wheretheweatherhasnotreached，thestonesareassharpasiftheyhadbeencutyesterday。ItwasinthegreatSalaofthiscastlethattherisingagainsttheAustriansin1848wasplanned；thenthereistheSaladiGiustizia，afineroom，withtheremainsoffrescoes；theroofandthetowershouldalsocertainlybevisited。Allissolidandreal，yetitislikeanItalianoperainactuallife。Lastly，thereisthekitchen，wherethewheelstillremainsinwhichaturnspitdogusedtobeputtoturnitandroastthemeat；butthisroomisnotshowntostrangers。

Theinnercourtofthecastleisasbeautifulastheouterone。

Throughtheopendooronecatchesglimpsesoftheterrace，andofthelakebeyondit。IknowIghtham，Hever，andStokesay，bothinsideandout，andIknowtheoutsideofLeeds；theseareallofthemexquisitelybeautiful，butneithertheynoranyothersuchplacethatIhaveeverseenpleasemeasmuchasthecastleofAngera。

WestayedtalkingtomyoldfriendSignorSignorelli，thecustodeofthecastle，andhisfamily，andsketchingupontheterraceuntilToniocametotellusthathisboatwasatthequaywaitingforus。

Tonioisnowaboutfourteenyearsold，butwasonlyfourwhenI

firsthadthepleasureofmakinghisacquaintance。HeissontoGiovanni，orasheismorecommonlycalled，Giovannino，aboatmanofArona。Theboyisdeservedlyagreatfavourite，andisnowapadronewithaboatofhisown，fromwhichhecangetagoodliving。

Hepulledusacrossthewarmandsleepylake，sofarthemostbeautifulofalleventheItalianlakes；aswenearedArona，andthewallthatrunsalongthelakebecamemoreplain，IcouldnothelpthinkingofwhatGiovannihadtoldmeaboutitsomeyearsbefore，whenToniowaslyingcurledup，alittlemiteofanobject，inthebottomoftheboat。HewasextollingacertainfamilyofpeasantswholivenearthecastleofAngera，asbeingmodelsofeverythingafamilyoughttobe。"There，"hesaid，"thechildrendonotspeakatmeal-times，thepolentaisputuponthetable，andeachtakesexactlywhatisgivenhim，eventhoughoneofthechildrenthinksanotherhasgotalargerhelpingthanhehas，hewilleathispieceinsilence。Mychildrenarenotlikethat；ifMariettathinksIrenehasabiggerpiecethanshehas，shewillleavetheroomandgotothewall。"

"What，"Iasked，"doesshegotothewallfor？"

"Oh!tocry；allthechildrengotothewalltocry。"

IthoughtofHezekiah。Thewallisthecryingplace，playing，loungingplace，andagreatdealmore，ofallthehousesinitsvicinity。Itisthecommondrawing-roomduringthesummermonths；

iftheweatheristoosultry，aboatmanwillleavehisbedandfinishthenightonhisbackuponitsbroadcoping；wewholiveinacolderclimatecanhardlyunderstandhowgreatablankintheexistenceofthesepeoplethedestructionofthewallwouldbe。

WesoonreachedArona，andinafewminuteswereinthatkindandhospitablehousetheHoteld"Italia，thanwhichnobetterhotelistobefoundinItaly。

AronaiscoolerthanAngera。Theproverbsays，"Hewhowouldknowthepainsoftheinfernalregions，couldgotoAngerainthesummerandtoAronainthewinter。"Theneighbourhoodisexquisite。

Unlessduringtheextremeheatofsummer，itisthebestplacetostayatontheLagoMaggiore。TheMonteMotteroneiswithinthecompassofasingleday"sexcursion；thereisOrta，also，andVaralloeasilyaccessible，andanynumberofdrivesandnearerexcursionswhetherbyboatorcarriage。

OnedaywemadeToniotakeustoCastellettonearSestoCalende，tohearthebells。TheyringthebellsverybeautifullyatVogogna，but，unlessmyrecollectionofagoodmanyyearsagofailsme，atCastellettotheyringthembetterstill。

AtVogogna，whileweweregettingourbreakfast，weheardthebellsstrikeupasfollows，fromacampanileonthesideofthehill:-

[Atthispointinthebookamusicscoreisgiven]

Theydidthisbecauseababyhadjustdied，butweweretolditwasnothingtowhattheywouldhavedoneifithadbeenagrown-upperson。

AtCastellettoweweredisappointed；thebellsdidnotringthatmorning；wehintedatthepossibilityofpayingasmallfeetotheringerandgettinghimtoringthem，butweretoldthat"lagente"

wouldnotatallapproveofthis，andsoIwasunabletotakedownthechimesatCastellettoasIhadintendedtodo。ImaysaythatIhadavisitfromsomeItalianfriendsafewyearsago，andfoundthemhardlylessdelightedwithourEnglishmodeofringingthanI

hadbeenwiththeirs。ItwouldbeveryniceifwecouldringourbellssometimesintheEnglishandsometimesintheItalianway。

WhenIsaytheItalianway——Ishouldsaythatthecustomofringing，asabovedescribed，isnotacommonone——IhaveonlyhearditatVogognaandCastelletto，thoughdoubtlessitprevailselsewhere。

Weweretoldthatthepeopletakeagooddealofprideintheirbells，andthatonevillagewillbejealousofanother，andconsideritselfmoreorlessinsultedifthebellsofthatothercanbeheardmoreplainlythanitsowncanbeheardbackagain。

TherearetwovillagesintheBrianzacalledBalzanoandCremella；

thedisputebetweenthesegrewsohotthateachofthemchangedtheirbellsthreetimes，soastotryandbeheardtheloudest。I

believeanhonourablecompromisewasintheendarrivedat。

InotherrespectsCastellettoisaquiet，sleepylittleplace。TheTicinoflowsthroughitjustafterleavingthelake。Itisverywidehere，andwhenfloodedmustcarrydownanenormousquantityofwater。Bargesgodownitatalltimes，buttheriverisdifficultofnavigationandrequiresskilfulpilots。Thesepilotsarewellpaid，andTonioseemedtohaveagreatrespectforthem。TheviewsofMonteRosaaresuperb。

OneofthegreatadvantagesofArona，asofMendrisio，isthatitcommandssuchanumberofotherplaces。ThereisrailtoMilan，andagaintoNovara，andeachstationonthewayisasub-centre；

therearealsothesteamersonthelake，andthereisnotavillageatwhichtheystopwhichwillnotrepayexamination，andwhichisnotinitsturnasub-centre。InEnglandIhavefoundbyexperiencethatthereisnothingforitbuttoexamineeveryvillageandtownwithineasyrailwaydistance；nobooksareofmuchuse:oneneverknowsthatsomethinggoodisnotgoingtobesprunguponone，andfewindeedaretheplaceswherethereisnooldpublic-house，oroverhangingcottage，orfarmhouseandbarn，orbitofDeHooghe-likeentrywhich，ifonehadtwoorthreelives，onewouldnotwillinglyleaveunpainted。ItisjustthesameinNorthItaly；thereisnotavillagewhichcanbepassedoverwithalightheart。

CHAPTERXXIV——LocarnoWewereattractedtoLocarnobytheapproachingfetesinhonourofthefourthcentenaryoftheapparitionoftheVirginMarytoFraBartolomeodaIvrea，whofoundedthesanctuaryinconsequence。

Theprogrammeannouncedthatthefestivitieswouldbeginon，Saturday，at3。30P。M。，withthecarryingofthesacredimage(sacrosimulacro)oftheVirginfromtheMadonnadelSassotothecollegiatechurchofS。Antonio。Therewouldthenbeabenedictionandcelebrationoftheholycommunion。Ateighto"clockthereweretobeilluminations，fireworks，balloons，&c。，atthesanctuaryandtheadjacentpremises。

OnSundayathalf-pastninetherewastobemassatthechurchofS。Antonio，withahomilybyMonsignorPaoloAngeloBallerini，PatriarchofAlexandriainpartibus，andblessingofthecrownsentbyPopeLeoXIIIfortheoccasion。S。AntonioisthechurchtheroofofwhichfellinduringserviceoneSundayin1865，throughtheweightofthesnow，killingsixtypeople。Athalf-pastthreeagrandprocessionwouldconveytheHolyImagetoaprettytemplewhichhadbeenerectedinthemarket-place。TheimagewasthentobecrownedbythePatriarch，carriedroundthetowninprocession，andreturnedtothechurchofS。Antonio。Ateighto"clockthereweretobefireworksneartheport；agrandilluminationofatriumphalarch，anilluminationofthesanctuaryandchapelswithBengallights，andanartificialapparitionoftheMadonna(ApparizioneartificialedellaBeataVerginecolBambino)abovethechurchupontheSacroMonte。NextdaytheHolyImagewastobecarriedbackfromthechurchofS。Antoniotoitsnormalresting-

placeatthesanctuary。Wewantedtoseeallthis，butitwastheartificialapparitionoftheMadonnathatmostattractedus。

Locarnois，aseveryoneknows，abeautifultown。BoththeHotelLocarnoandtheHoteldellaCoronaaregood，butthelatteris，I

believe，thecheaper。AtthecastellothereisafrescooftheMadonna，ascribed，Ishouldthinkrightly，toBernardinoLuini，andatthecemeteryoutsidethetowntherearesomeoldfrescoesofthesecondhalfofthefifteenthcentury，inaruinousstate，butinteresting。IfIrememberrightlythereareseveraldatesonthem，averaging1475-80。TheymighteasilyhavebeendonebythesamemanwhodidthefrescoesatMesocco，butIprefertheselast。

Thegreatfeature，however，ofLocarnoistheSacroMontewhichrisesaboveit。Fromthewoodenbridgewhichcrossesthestreamjustbeforeenteringuponthesacredprecincts，thechurchandchapelsandroadarrangethemselvesasonp。269。

Onthewayup，keepingtothesteeperandabrupterroute，onecatchessightofthemonks"garden——alittleparadisewithvines，beehives，onions，lettuces，cabbages，marigoldstocolourtherisottowith，andalittleplotofgreatluxurianttobaccoplants。

Amongstthefoliagemaybenowandagainseentheburlyfigureofamonkwithastrawhaton。ThebestviewofthesanctuaryfromaboveistheonewhichIgiveonp。270。

Thechurchitselfisnotremarkable，butitcontainsthebestcollectionofvotivepicturesthatIknowinanychurch，unlesstheoneatOropabeexcepted；thereisalsoamodernItalian"ReturnfromtheCross"byCiseri，whichisverymuchadmired，butwithwhichIhavemyselfnosympathywhatever。ItisanAcademypicture。

Thecloisterlookingoverthelakeisverybeautiful。Inthelittlecourtdownbelow——whichalsoisofgreatbeauty——thereisachapelcontainingarepresentationoftheLastSupperinlife-sizedcolouredstatuesasatVarallo，whichhasagooddealoffeeling，andafresco(？)behinditwhichoughttobeexamined，butthechapelissodarkthatthisiseasiersaidthandone。Thereisalsoafrescodownbelowinthechapelwherethefounderofthesanctuaryisburiedwhichshouldnotbepassedover。Itisdated1522，andisLuinesqueincharacter。WhenIwaslastthere，however，itwashardlypossibletoseeanything，foreverythingwasbeingturnedtopsy-turvybythearrangementswhichwerebeingmadefortheapproachingfetes。Thesewereverygayandpretty；theymusthavecostagreatdealofmoney，andIwastoldthatthemunicipalityinitscollectivecapacitywasthoughtmean，becauseithadrefusedtocontributemorethan100francs，or4poundssterling。Itdoesseemratherasmallsumcertainly。

OntheafternoonofFridaythe13thofAugustthePatriarchMonsignorBalleriniwastoarrivebythethreeo"clockboat，andtherewasacrowdtowelcomehim。ThemusicofLocarnowasonthequayplayingaselection，notfrom"MadameAngot"itself，butfromsomethingverylikeit——light，gay，sparklingoperabouffe——towelcomehim。IfeltasIhaddonewhenIfoundthematchboxinthesanctuarybedroomatGraglia:notthatImindeditmyself，butasbeingalittleunhappylesttheBishopmightnotquitelikeit。

Idonotseehowwecouldwelcomeabishop——wewillsaytoaconfirmation——withabandofmusicatall。FancyabrassbandofsometwentyorthirtyrangedroundthelandingstageatGravesendtowelcometheBishopofLondon，andfancytheirplayingwewillsay"ThetwoObadiahs，"orthathorridsongabouttheswinggoingalittlebithigher!TheBishopwouldbeverymuchoffended。Hewouldnotgoamusicalinchbeyondthemarchin"LeProphete，"nor，willingly，beyondthemarchin"Athalie。"MonsignorBallerini，however，neverturnedahair；hebowedrepeatedlytoallroundhim，anddroveoffinacarriageandpair，apparentlymuchpleasedwithhisreception。WeProtestantsdonotunderstand，nortakeanyverygreatpainstounderstand，theChurchofRome。Ifwedid，weshouldfindittobeinmanyrespectsasmuchinadvanceofusasitisbehindusinothers。

Onethingmadeanimpressionuponmewhichhauntedmeallthetime。

Oneveryimportantspacetherewereadvertisementsoftheprogramme，thesubstanceofwhichIhavealreadygiven。Buthardly，ifatalllessnoticeable，weretwootherswhichroseupirrepressibleuponeveryprominentspace，searchingallplaceswithasubtlepenetrativepoweragainstwhichprecautionswerepowerless。TheseadvertisementswerenotinItalianbutinEnglish，neverthelesstheywereneitherofthemEnglish——butboth，Ibelieve，American。TheonewasthatoftheRichmondGemcigarette，withthelargeillustrationrepresentingamaninahatsmoking，sofamiliartoushereinLondon。TheotherwasthatofWheeler&Wilson"ssewingmachines。

AsthePatriarchdroveoffinthecarriagethemaninthehatsmokingtheRichmondGemcigaretteleeredathim，andthewomanworkingWheeler&Wilson"ssewingmachinesewedathim。Duringtheilluminationstheunwontedlightthrewitsglareupontheeffigiesofsaintsandangels，butitilluminedalsothemanintheblackfelthatandthewomanwiththesewingmachine；evenduringtheartificialapparitionoftheVirginMaryherselfuponthehillbehindthetown，themoretheyletofffireworksthemoreclearlythemaninthehatcameoutuponthewallsroundthemarket-place，andtheblandimperturbablewomanworkingathersewingmachine。I

thoughttomyselfthatwhenthemanwiththehatappearedinthepiazzatheMadonnawoulderelongceasetoappearonthehill。

Lateron，passingthroughthetownalone，whenthepeoplehadgonetorest，Isawmanyofthemlyingonthepavementunderthearchesfastasleep。Abrilliantmoonilluminatedthemarket-place；therewasapleasantsoundoffallingwaterfromthefountain；thelakewasbathedinsplendour，savewhereittookthereflectionofthemountains——sopeacefulandquietwasthenightthattherewashardlyarustleintheleavesoftheaspens。Butwhetherinmoonlightorinshadow，thebusypersistentvibrationsthatriseinAnglo-Saxonbrainswereradiatingfromeverywall，andthemanintheblackfelthatandtheblandladywiththesewingmachinewerethere——lyinginwait，asacatoveramouse"shole，toinsinuatethemselvesintotheheartsofthepeoplesosoonastheyshouldwake。

Greatnumberscametothefestivities。TherewerespecialtrainsfromBiascaandallintermediatestations，andspecialboats。Andtheuglyflat-nosedpeoplecamefromtheValVerzasca，andthebeautifulpeoplecamefromtheValOnsernoneandtheValMaggia，andIsawAnna，thecurate"shousekeeper，fromMesocco，andtheoldfrescopainterwhotoldmeheshouldliketopaymeavisit，andsuggestedfiveo"clockinthemorningasthemostappropriateandconvenienttime。Thegreatprocessioncontainedsevenoreighthundredpeople。FromthebalconyoftheHoteldellaCoronaI

countedaswellasIcouldandobtainedthefollowingresult:-

Women120

Menwithwhiteshirtsandredcapes85

Menwithwhiteshirtsandnocapes(？)

ThemusicfromIntra30

Menwithwhiteshirtsandbluecapes25

Menwithwhiteshirtsandnocapes25

Menwithwhiteshirtsandgreencapes12

Menwithwhiteshirtsandnocapes36

ThemusicofLocarno30

Girlsinblue，pink，whiteandyellow，red，white50

Choristers3

Monks6

Priests66

Canons12

HisExcellencyPaoloAngeloBallerini，PatriarchofAlexandriainEgypt，escortedbythefiremen，andhisprivatecortegeofabout2025

Governmentushers(？)

TheGrandCouncil，escortedby22

soldiersand6policemen28

Theclergywithoutorders30

583

Intheevening，there，sureenough，theapparitionoftheBlessedVirginwas。ThechurchoftheMadonnawasunilluminatedandallindarkness，whenonasuddenitsprangoutintoablaze，andagreattransparencyoftheVirginandchildwaslitupfrombehind。Thenthepeoplesaid，"Ohbel!"

Iwasmyselfalittledisappointed。Itwasnotagoodapparition，andIthinktheeffectwouldhavebeenbetterifithadbeencarriedupbyasmallballoonintothesky。Itmighteasilyhavebeenarrangedsothatthelightbehindthetransparencyshoulddieoutbeforetheapparitionmustfallagain，andalsothatthelightinsidethetransparencyshouldnotbereflectedupontheballoonthatliftedit；thewhole，therefore，wouldappeartorisefromitsowninherentbuoyancy。IamconfidentitwouldhavebeenarrangedinthiswayifthethinghadbeeninthehandsoftheCrystalPalacepeople。

ThereisafineoldbasilicatechurchdedicatedtoS。VittoreatthenorthendofLocarno。Itisthemotherchurchofthesepartsanddatesfromtheeighthorninthcentury。Thefrescoesinsidetheapsewereoncefine，buthavebeenrepaintedandspoiled。Thetowerismuchlater，butisimpressive。Itwasbegunin1524andleftincompletein1527，probablyowingtothehighpriceofprovisionswhichiscommemoratedinthefollowingwordswrittenonastoneatthetopofthetowerinside1527

Furm。[fromento——corn]costlib。6。

Segale[barley]lib。5。

Milio[millet]lib。4。

Isupposetheseweresomethinglikefamineprices；atanyrate，aworkmanwrotethisuponthetowerandthetowerstopped。

CHAPTERXXV——FusioWeleftLocarnobytheconveyancewhichleaveseverydayatfouro"clockforBignasco，arideofaboutfourhours。ThePonteBrolla，acoupleofmilesoutofLocarno，isremarkable，andtheroadisthroughout(asamatterofcourse)good。Isatnextanoldpriest，anexcellentkindlyman，whotalkedfreelywithme，andscoldedmeroundlyforbeingaProtestantmorethanonce。

HeseemedmuchsurprisedwhenIdiscardedreasonasthefoundationofourbelief。HehadmadeuphismindthatallProtestantsbasedtheirconvictionsuponreason，andwasnotpreparedtohearmegoheartilywithhimindeclaringthefoundationofanydurablesystemtolieinfaith。When，however，itcametorequiringmetohavefaithinwhatseemedgoodtohimandhisfriends，ratherthantomeandmine，wedidnotagreesowell。Hethenbegantoshakedeathatme；ImethimwithareflectionthatIhaveneverseeninprint，thoughitissoobviousthatitmusthaveoccurredtoeachoneofmyreaders。Isaidthateverymanisanimmortaltohimself:heonlydiesasfarasothersareconcerned；tohimselfhecannot，byanyconceivablepossibility，doso。ForhowcanheknowthatheisdeaduntilheISdead？AndwhenheISdead，howcanheknowthatheisdead？Ifhedoes，itisanabuseoftermstosaythatheisdead。Amancanknownomoreabouttheendofhislifethanhedidaboutthebeginning。Themosthorribleandloatheddeathstillresolvesitselfintobeingbadlyfrightened，andnotalittlehurttowardstheendofone"slife，butitcannevercometobeingunbearablyhurtforlongtogether。Besides，weareatalltimes，evenduringlife，deadanddyingtobyfarthegreaterpartofourpastselves。Whatwecalldyingisonlydyingtothebalance，orresiduum。Thismadethepriestangry。Hefoldedhisarmsandsaid，"Basta，basta，"nordidhespeaktomeagain。ItisbecauseInoticedtheeffectitproduceduponmyfellow-passengerthatI

introduceithere。

BignascoisattheconfluenceofthetwomainbranchesoftheMaggia。ThegreaterpartoftherivercomesdownfromtheglacierofBasodino，whichcannotbeseenfromBignasco；IknownothingofthisvalleybeyondhavingseentheglacierfromthetopofthepassbetweenFusioandDalpe。ThesmallerhalfoftherivercomesdownfromFusio，thevalleyofSambucco，andthelakeofNaret。TheaccommodationatBignascoisquiteenoughforabachelor；thepeoplearegood，buttheinnishomely。FromBignascotheroadascendsrapidlytoPeccia，avillagewhichhassufferedterriblyfrominundations，andfromPecciaitascendsmorerapidlystill——

FusiobeingreachedinaboutthreehoursfromBignasco。ThereisanexcellentinnatFusiokeptbySignorDazio，towhoseenergytheadmirablemountainroadfromPecciaismainlydue。Ontherightjustbeforehecrossesthebridge，thetravellerwillnotethefrescooftheCrucifixion，whichIhavementionedatpage140。

Fusioisover4200feetabovethelevelofthesea。Idonotknowwhereinitspeculiarcharmlies，butitisthebestofallthevillagesofakindredcharacterthatIknow。Belowisasketchofitasitappearsfromthecemetery。

Thereisanothergoodviewfrombehindthevillage；atsunsetthissecondviewbecomesremarkablyfine。Thehousesareindeepcoolshadow，butthemountainsbehindtaketheeveningsun，andaresometimesofanincrediblesplendour。Itisfinetowatchtheshadowscreepingupthem，andthecolourthatremainsgrowingricherandricheruntilthewholeisextinguished；thisview，however，Iamunabletogive。

IholdSignorDazioofFusiosomuchasoneofmymostparticularandvaluedfriends，andIhavesuchspecialaffectionforFusioitself，thatthereadermustbearinmindthatheisreadinganaccountgivenbyapartialwitness。Nevertheless，allprivatepreferencesapart，IthinkhewillfindFusioahardplacetobeat。

AttheendofJuneandinJulytheflowersareattheirbest，andtheyaremorevariedandbeautifulthananywhereelseIknow。AttheveryendofJulyandthebeginningofAugustthepeoplecuttheirhay，andthenforawhilethegloryoftheplaceisgone，butbytheendofAugustorthebeginningofSeptemberthegrasshasgrownlongenoughtore-covertheslopeswithavelvetyverdure，andthoughtheflowersareshorn，yetsotheyarefromotherplacesalso。

Therearemanywalksintheneighbourhoodforthosewhodonotmindmountainpaths。ThemostbeautifulofthemallistothevalleyofSambucco，theupperendwhichisnotmorethanhalf-an-hourfromSignorDazio"shotel。Forsometimeonekeepstothepaththroughthewoodedgorge，andwiththeriverfoamingfarbelow；inearlymorningwhilethispathisinshade，or，again，aftersunset，itisoneofthemostbeautifulofitskindthatIknow。Afterawhileagateisreached，andanopenuplandvalleyisenteredupon——

evidentlyanoldlakefilledup，andneitherverybroadnorverylong，butgrassedallover，andwiththeriverwindingthroughitlikeanEnglishbrook。ThisisthevalleyofSambucco。Therearetwocollectionsofstalleforthecattle，ormonti——oneatthenearerendandtheotheratthefarther。

Thefloorofthevalleycanhardlybelessthan5000feetabovethesea。IshallneverforgetthepleasurewithwhichIfirstcameuponit。Ihadlongwantedanidealuplandvalley；asageneralrulehighvalleysaretoonarrow，andhavelittleornolevelground。IftheyhaveanyatallthereoftenistoomuchaswiththeonewhereAndermattandHospenthalare——whichwouldinsomerespectsdoverywell——andtoomuchcultivated，anddonotshowtheirheight。AnuplandvalleyshouldfirstofallbeinanItalian-speakingcountry；thenitshouldhaveasmooth，grassy，perfectlylevelfloorofsayneithermuchmorenorlessthanahundredandfiftyyardsinbreadthandhalf-a-mileinlength。A

smallrivershouldgobabblingthroughitwithoccasionalsmoothparts，soastotakethereflectionsofthesurroundingmountains。

Itshouldhavethreeorfourfinelarchesorpinesscatteredaboutithereandthere，butnotmore。Itshouldbecompletelyland-

locked，andthereshouldbenothinginthewayofhumanhandiworksaveafewchalets，orasmallchapelandabridge，butnotilledlandwhatever。Hereoveninsummertheeveningairwillbecrisp，andthedewwillformassoonasthesungoesoff；butthemountainsatoneendofitwillkeepthelastraysofthesun。Itisthenthevalleyisatitsbest，especiallyifthegoatsandcattlearecomingtogethertobemilked。

ThevalleyofSambuccohasallthisandagreatdealmore，tosaynothingofthefactthatthereareexcellenttroutinit。Ihaveshownittofriendsatdifferenttimes，andtheyhaveallagreedwithmethatforavalleyneithertoohighnortoolow，nortoobignortoolittle，thevalleyofSambuccoisoneofthebestthatanyofusknowof——Imeantolookatandenjoy，forIsupposeasregardspaintingitishopeless。Ithinkitcanbewellrenderedbythefollowingpieceofmusicasbyanythingelse:-{33}

[Atthispointinthebookamusicscoreisgiven]

OnedaySignorDaziobroughtusinachamoisfoot。Heexplainedtousthatchamoiswerenowinseason，butthatevenwhentheywerenot，theyweresometimestobehad，inasmuchastheyoccasionallyfellfromtherocksandgotkilled。Aswelookedatitwecouldnothelpreflectingthat，wonderfulastheprovisionsofanimalandvegetableorganismsoftenare，themarvelsofadaptationaresometimesalmostexceededbythefeatswhichananimalwillperformwithaverysimpleandevenclumsyinstrumentifitknowshowtouseit。Achamoisfootisasmoothandslipperything，suchasnorespectablebootmakerwoulddreamofofferingtoamountaineer:

thereisnotanailinit，norevenanapologyforanail；thesurefootednessofitsownerisanassumptiononly——apieceoffaithorimpudencewhichfulfilsitself。Ifsomeotheranimalweretoinducethechamoistobelievethatitshouldattheleasthavefeetwithsuckerstothem，likeafly，beforeventuringinsuchbreakneckplaces，orifbyanymeansitcouldgettoknowhowbadafootitreallyhas，therewouldsoonbenomorechamois。Thechamoiscontinuestoexistthroughitsabsoluterefusaltohearreasonuponthematter。Butthewholequestionisoneofextremeintricacy；allweknowisthatsomeanimalsandplants，likesomemen，devotegreatpainstotheperfectionofthemechanismwithwhichtheywishtowork，whileothersratherscornappliances，andconcentratetheirattentionupontheskilfuluseofwhatevertheyhappentohave。Ithink，however，thatintheclumsinessofthechamoisfootmustlietheexplanationofthefactthatsometimeswhenchamoisareoutofseason，theydoneverthelessactuallytumbleofftherocksandgetkilled；beingkilled，ofcourseitisonlynaturalthattheyshouldsometimesbefound，andiffound，beeaten；buttheyarenotgoodformuch。

Afteradayortwo"sstayinthisdelightfulplace，weleftatsixo"clockonebrilliantmorninginSeptemberforDalpeandFaido，accompaniedbytheexcellentSignorGuglielmoniasguide。TherearetwomainpassesfromFusiointotheValLeventina——theonebytheSasselloGrandetoNanteandAirolo，andtheotherbytheAlpediCampolungotoDalpe。Neithershouldbeattemptedbystrangerswithoutaguide，thoughneitherofthempresentsthesmallestdifficulty。ThereisathirdandlongerpassbytheLagodiNarettoBedretto，butIhaveneverbeenoverthis。Theothertwoarebothgood；onthewhole，however，IthinkIpreferthesecond。

SignorGuglielmoniledusoverthefreshestgrassyslopesconceivable——slopesthatfourorfiveweeksearlierhadbeengaywithtigerandTurk"s-caplilies，andtheflauntingarnica，andeveryflowerthatlikesmountaincompany。Afterathreehours"

walkwereachedthetopofthepass，fromwhenceontheonehandonecanseetheBasodinoglacier，andontheotherthegreatRheinwaldglaciersaboveOlivone。OthersmallglaciersshowinvalleysnearBiascawhichIknownothingabout，andwhichIimaginetobealmostaterraincognita，excepttotheinhabitantsofsuchvillagesasMalvagliaintheValBlenio。

Whennearthetopofthepassweheardthewhistleofamarmot。

Guglielmonitoldushehadatameoneoncewhichwasveryfondofhim。Itsleptallthewinter，butturnedroundonceafortnighttoavoidlyingtoolongupononeside。Whenitwokeupfromitswintersleepitnolongerrecognisedhim，butbithimsavagelyrightthroughthefinger；byandbyitsrecollectionreturnedtoit，anditapologised。

Fromthesummit，whichisabout7600feetabovethesea，thepathdescendsovertheroughestgroundthatistobefoundonthewholeroute。Heretherearegoodspecimensofasbestostobepickedupabundantly，andtherocksarefullofgarnets；afteraboutsixorsevenhundredfeettheAlpediCampolungoisreached，andthisagainisanespeciallyfavouriteplacewithme。Itisanoldlakefilledup，surroundedbypeaksandprecipiceswheresomesnowrestsalltheyearround，andtraversedbyastream。Here，justaswehaddonelunching，wewerejoinedbyafamilyofknife-grinders，whowerealsocrossingfromtheValMaggiatotheValLeventina。

Wehadeatenallwehadwithusexceptourbread；thisGuglielmonigavetooneoftheboys，whoseemedasmuchpleasedwithitasifithadbeencake。ThenaftertakingalookattheLagodiTremorgio，abeautifullakesomehundredsoffeetbelow，wewentontotheAlpediCadonighinowhereourguideleftus。

Atthispointpinesbegin，andsoonthepathentersthem；afterawhilewecatchsightofPrato，andeventuallycomedownuponDalpe。

InanotherhourandaquarterFaidoisreached。ThedescenttoFaidofromthesummitofthepassismuchgreaterthantheascentfromFusio，forFaidoisnotmorethan2300feetabovethesea，whereas，asIhavesaid，Fusioisover4200feet。ThedescentfromthetopofthepasstoFaidoisabout5300feet，whiletoFusioitisonly3400。Thereader，therefore，willseethathehadbettergofromFusiotoFaido，andnotviceversa，unlessheisagoodwalker。

FromFaidowereturnedhome。WelookedatnothingbetweenthetopoftheSt。GothardPassandBoulogne，nordidweagainbegintotakeanyinterestinlifetillwesawthescience-ridden，art-

ridden，culture-ridden，afternoon-tea-riddencliffsofOldEnglandriseuponthehorizon。

APPENDIXA——WednesburyCocking(Seep。55)

Iknownothingofthedateofthisremarkableballad，orthesourcefromwhichitcomes。Ihaveheardonewhoshouldknowsay，thatwhenhewasaboyatShrewsburyschoolitwasdoneintoGreekhexameters，thelines(withavariousreadinginthem):

"Thecolliersandnailersleftwork，AndalltooldScroggins"wentjogging；"

beingtranslated:

[Greektext]

Ihavebeenatsomepainstofindoutmoreaboutthistranslation，buthavefailedtodoso。Theballaditselfisasfollows:

AtWednesburytherewasacocking，AmatchbetweenNewtonandScroggins；

Thecolliersandnailersleftwork，AndalltooldSpittle"swentjogging。

Toseethisnoblesport，Manynoblemenresorted；

Andthoughthey"dbutlittlemoney，Yetthatlittletheyfreelysported。

TherewasJefferyandColbornfromHampton，AndDustyfromBilstonwasthere；

FlummeryhecamefromDarlaston，Andhewasasrudeasabear。

TherewasoldWillfromWalsall，AndSmackerfromWestbromwichcome；

BlindRobinhecamefromRowley，Andstaggeringhewenthome。

RalphMoodycamehobblingalong，Asthoughhesomecripplewasmocking，Tojoinintheblackguardthrong，ThatmetatWednesburycocking。

HeborrowedatrifleofDoll，TobackoldTaverner"sgrey；

Helaidfourpence-halfpennytofourpence，Helostandwentbrokenaway。

Butsoonhereturnedtothepit，Forhe"dborrowedatriflemoremoney，Andventuredanotherlargebet，AlongwithblobbermouthConey。

WhenConeydemandedhismoney，Asisusualonallsuchoccasions，Hecried，——thee，iftheedon"tholdthyrattle，I"llpaytheeasPaulpaidtheEphasians。

Themorning"ssportbeingover，OldSpittleadinnerproclaimed，Eachmanheshoulddineforagroat，Ifhegrumbledheoughttobe——，Fortherewasplentyofbeef，ButSpittlehesworebyhistroth，ThatneveramanshoulddineTillheatehisnogginofbroth。

Thebeefitwasoldandtough，Offabullthatwasbaitedtodeath，BarneyHydegotalumpinhisthroat，Thathadliketohavestoppedhisbreath，Thecompanyallfellintoconfusion，AtseeingpoorBarneyHydechoke；

Sotheytookhimintothekitchen，Andheldhimoverthesmoke。

Theyheldhimsoclosetothefire，Hefrizzledjustlikeabeef-steak，Theythenthrewhimdownonthefloor，Whichhadliketohavebrokenhisneck。

Onegavehimakickonthestomach，Anotherakickonthebrow，Hiswifesaid，Throwhimintothestable，Andhe"llbebetterjustnow。

Thentheyallreturnedtothepit，Andthefightingwentforwardagain；

Sixbattleswerefoughtoneachside，Andthenextwastodecidethemain。

FortheyweretwofamouscocksAseverthiscountrybred，Scroggins"sadark-wingedblack，AndNewton"sashift-wingedred。

Theconflictwashardonbothsides，TillBrassy"sblack-wingedwaschoked；

Thecolliersweretarnationlyvexed，Andthenailersweresorelyprovoked。

PeterStevenshesworeagreatoath，ThatScrogginshadplayedhiscockfoul；

Scrogginsgavehimakickonthehead，Andcried，Yea，——thysoul。

Thecompanythenfellindiscord，Abold，boldfightdidensue；-

，-，andbitewastheword，TilltheWalsallmenallweresubdued。

RalphMoodybitoffaman"snose，Andwishedthathecouldhavehimslain，Sotheytrampledbothcockstodeath，Andtheymadeadrawofthemain。

Thecock-pitwasneartothechurch，Anornamentuntothetown；

Ononesideanoldcoalpit，Theotherwellgorsedaround。

PeterHadleypeepedthroughthegorse，Inordertoseethemfight；

Spittlejobbedouthiseyewithafork，Andsaid，——thee，itservedtheeright。

Somepeoplemaythinkthisstrange，WhoWednesburyneverknew；

Butthosewhohaveeverbeenthere，Willnothavetheleastdoubtit"strue；

Fortheyareassavagebynature，Andguiltyofdeedsthemostshocking；

JackBakerwhackedhisownfather，AndthusendedWednesburycocking。

APPENDIXB——ReformsInstitutedatS。Micheleintheyear1478(Seep。105)

ThepalmiestdaysofthesanctuarywereduringthetimethatRodolfodiMontebelloorMombellowasabbot——thatistosay，roughly，betweentheyears1325-60。"Hisrectorate，"saysClaretta，"wasthegoldenageoftheAbbeyofLaChiusa，whichreapedthegloryacquiredbyitsheadinthedifficultnegotiationsentrustedtohimbyhisprinces。Butafterhisdeath，eitherlotorintriguecausedtheelectiontofalluponthosewhopreparedtheruinofoneofthemostancientandillustriousmonasteriesinPiedmont。"{34}