第7章

Abovethispicturetherehangtwoothers——alsoveryinteresting，frombeingexamplesof，asitwere，thelastgroansoftrueartwhilebeingstifledbyacademicism——oritmaybetheattemptatanewbirth，whichwasneverthelessdoomedtoextinctionbyacademicianswhileyetinitsinfancy。SuchpicturesaretobefoundalloverItaly。Sometimes，asinthecaseoftheworkofDedomenici，theyhaveabsolutemerit——morecommonlytheyhavetherelativemeritofshowingthatthepainterwastryingtolookandfeelforhimself，andapicturedoesmuchwhenitconveysthisimpression。Itisasmallstillvoice，which，howeversmall，canbeheardthroughandabovetheroarofcantwhichtriestodrownit。WewantabookabouttheunknownItalianpaintersinout-of-

the-wayItalianvalleysduringthetimesofthedecadenceofart。

Thereisamplematerialforonewhohasthetimeathiscommand。

Welunchedatthehouseoftheincumbent，amonk，whowasverykindtous。WefoundhimdryingFrenchmarigoldblossomstocolourhisrisottowithduringthewinter。Hegaveussomeexcellentwine，andtookusoverthetowernearthechurch。Nothingcanbemorelovelythanthemonk"sgarden。Ifaestheticpeopleareevergoingtogettiredofsun-flowersandlilies，letmesuggesttothemthattheywillfindawearyutternessinchicoryandseedonionswhichtheyshouldnotoverlook；IneverfeltchicoryandseedonionstillIwasinthemonk"sgardenatS。MariainCalanca。Allabouttheterraceorartificiallevelgroundonwhichthechurchisplaced，thereareadmirablebitsforpainting，andiftherewasonlyaccommodationsothatonecouldgetupashighasthealpi，IcanfancyfewbetterplacestostayatthanS。MariainCalanca。

CHAPTERXIX——TheMendrisiottoWestayedadayortwoatBellinzona，andthenwentonovertheMonteCeneretoLugano。MyfirstacquaintancewiththeMonteCenerewasmadesomeseven-and-thirtyyearsagowhenIwasasmallboy。IrememberwithwhatdelightIfoundwildnarcissusesgrowinginameadowuponthetopofit，andwasallowedtogatherasmanyasIliked。ItwasnottillsomethirtyyearsafterwardsthatI

againpassedovertheMonteCenereinsummertime，butIwellrememberedthenarcissusplace，andwonderedwhethertherewouldstillbeanyofthemgrowingthere。Sureenoughwhenwegottothetop，theretheywereasthickascowslipsinanEnglishmeadow。AtLugano，havinghalf-an-hourtospare，wepaidourrespectstothegloriousfrescoesbyBernardinoLuini，andtothefacadeoftheduomo，andthenwentontoMendrisio。

TheneighbourhoodofMendrisio，or，asitiscalled，the"Mendrisiotto，"isarichone。Mendrisioitselfshouldbetheheadquarters；thereisanexcellenthotelthere，theHotelMendrisio，keptbySignoraPasta，whichcannotbesurpassedforcomfortandallthatmakesahotelpleasanttostayat。Ineversawahousewherethearrangementsweremoreperfect；eveninthehottestweatherIfoundtheroomsalwayscoolandairy，andthenightsneveroppressive。PartofthesecretofthismaybethatMendrisiolieshigherthanitappearstodo，andthehotel，whichissituatedontheslopeofthehill，takesallthebreezethereis。ThelakeofLuganoisabout950feetabovethesea。TheriverfallsrapidlybetweenMendrisioandthelake，whilethehotelishighabovetheriver。Idonotsee，therefore，howthehotelcanbelessthan1200feetabovethesea-line；butwhateverheightitis，Ineverfelttheheatoppressive，thoughonmorethanoneoccasionIhavestayedthereforweekstogetherinJulyandAugust。

MendrisiobeingsituatedontherailwaybetweenLuganoandComo，boththeseplacesarewithineasyreach。Milanisonlyacoupleofhoursoff，andVareseathreeorfourhours"carriagedrive。ItliesontheverylastslopesoftheAlps，sothatwhetherthevisitorhasafancyformountainsorforthesmilingbeautyofthecolline，hemaybeequallygratified。Thereareexcellentroadsineverydirection，andnoneofthemcanbetakenwithoutitsleadingtosomenewfeatureofinterest；IdonotthinkanyEnglishfamilywillregretspendingafortnightatthischarmingplace。

MostvisitorstoMendrisio，however，makeitaplaceofpassageonly，enrouteforthecelebratedhotelontheMonteGeneroso，keptbyDr。Pasta，SignoraPasta"sbrother-in-law。TheMonteGenerosoisveryfine；IknowfewplacesofwhichIamfonder；whetheronelooksdownateveninguponthelakeofLuganothousandsoffeetbelow，andthenletstheeyewanderupwardagainandrestupontheghastlypallorofMonteRosa，orwhetheronetakesthepathtotheColmaandsauntersovergreenslopescarpetedwithwild-flowers，andstuddedwiththegentlestcattle，allisequallydelightful。

Whatasenseofvastnessandfreedomisthereonthebroadheavingslopesofthesesubalpinespurs。Theyarejusthighenoughwithoutbeingtoohigh。TheSouthDownsareverygood，andbymakingbelieveverymuchIhavesometimesbeenhalfabletofancywhenuponthemthatImightbeontheMonteGeneroso，buttheyareonlygoodasaquartetisgoodifonecannotgetasymphony。

Ithinktherearemorewild-flowersupontheMonteGenerosothanuponanyotherthatIknow，andamongthemnumbersofbeautifulwildnarcissuses，asontheMonteCenere。AtthetopoftheMonteGeneroso，amongtherocksthatjutoutfromtheherbage，theregrows——unlessithasbeenalluprooted——thelargeyellowauricula，andthisIowntobeingmyfavouritemountainwild-flower。Itistheonlyflowerwhich，Ithink，fairlybeatscowslips。HeretooI

heard，orthoughtIheard，thesongofthatmostbeautifulofallbirdsongsters，thepasserosolitario，orsolitarysparrow-ifitisasparrow，whichIshoulddoubt。

Nobodyknowswhatabirdcandointhewayofsonguntilhehasheardapasserosolitario。IthinktheystillhaveoneattheHotelMendrisio，butamnotsure。Iheardonethereonce，andcanonlysaythatIshalleverrememberitasthemostbeautifulwarblingthatIeverheardcomeoutofthethroatofbird。Allotherbirdsingingisloud，vulgar，andunsympatheticincomparison。Thebirditselfisaboutasbigasastarling，andisofadullbluecolour。Itiseasilytamed，andbecomesverymuchattachedtoitsmasterandmistress，butitisapttodieinconfinementbeforeverylong。Itfightsallothersofitsownspecies；itisnowararebird，andisdoomed，Ifear，erelongtoextinction，totheregretofallwhohavehadthepleasureofitsacquaintance。TheItaliansareveryfondofthem，andProfessorVelatoldmetheywillevenactlikeahousedogandsetupacryifanystrangerscome。TheoneIsawflewinstantlyatmyfingerwhenIputitnearitscage，butIwasnotsurewhetheritdidsoinangerorplay。Ithoughtitlikedbeinglistenedto，andaslongasitchosetosingIwasdelightedtostay，whereasasageneralruleIwantsingingbirdstoleaveoff。{32}

Peoplesaythenightingale"ssongissobeautiful；Iamashamedtoownit，butIdonotlikeit。Itdoesnotusethediatonicscale。

Abirdshouldeithermakenoattempttosingintune，oritshouldsucceedindoingso。LarksareWordsworth，andasforcanaries，I

wouldalmostsoonerhearapighavingitsnoseringed，orthegrindingofanaxe。Cuckoosareallright；theysingintune。

Rooksarelovely；theydonotpretendtotune。Seagullsagain，andtheplaintivecreaturesthatpitythemselvesonmoorlands，astheploverandthecurlew，orthebirdsthatliftuptheirvoicesandcryateventidewhenthereisaneagerairblowinguponthemountainsandthelastyellowintheskyisfading——Ihavenowordswithwhichtopraisethemusicofthesepeople。Orlistentothechucklingofastringofsoftyoungducks，astheyglidesingle-

filebesideaditchunderahedgerow，soclosetogetherthattheylooklikesomelongbrownserpent，andsaywhatsoundcanbemoreseductive。

ManyyearsagoIrememberthinkingthatthebirdsinNewZealandapproachedthediatonicscalemorenearlythanEuropeanbirdsdo。

Therewasonebird，IthinkitwastheNewZealandthrush，butamnotsure，whichusedtosingthus:-

[Atthispointinthebookamusicscoreisgiven]

Iwasalwayswantingittogoon:-

[Atthispointinthebookamusicscoreisgiven]

Butitnevergotbeyondthefirstfourbars。ThentherewasanotherwhichInoticedthefirstdayIlanded，morethantwentyyearssince，andwhosesongdescendedbyverynearlyperfectsemitonesasfollows:-

[Atthispointinthebookamusicscoreisgiven]

butthesemitonesarehereandthereinthisbird"ssongatrifleoutoftune，whereasinthatoftheothertherewasnodeparturefromthediatonicscale。Bethis，however，asitmay，noneofthesepleasemesomuchasthepasserosolitario。

TheonlymammalsthatIcancalltomindatthismomentasshowinganyevenapparentapproachtoanappreciationofthediatonicscalearetheelephantandtherhinoceros。Thebraying(orwhateveristhetechnicaltermforit)ofanelephantcomprisesaprettyaccuratethird，andisofarichmellowtonewithagooddealofbrassinit。Therhinocerosgruntsagoodfourth，beginning，wewillsay，onC，anddroppingcorrectlyontotheGbelow。

TheMonteGeneroso，then，isagoodplacetostayafewdaysat，butonesooncomestoanendofit。Thetopofamountainislikeanislandintheair，oneiscoopedupuponitunlessonedescends；

inthecaseoftheMonteGenerosothereistheviewofthelakeofLugano，thewalktotheColma，thewalkalongthecrestofthehillbythefarm，andtheviewoverLombardy，andthatisall。Ifonegoesfardownoneishauntedbytherecollectionthatwhenoneistiredintheeveningonewillhaveallone"sclimbingtodo，and，beautifulastheupperpartsoftheMonteGenerosoare，thereislittleforapainterthereexcepttostudycattle，goats，andclouds。Irecommendatraveller，therefore，byallmeanstospendadayortwoatthehotelontheMonteGeneroso，buttomakehislongersojourndownbelowatMendrisio，thewalksandexcursionsfromwhichareendless，andallofthembeautiful。

AmongthebestoftheseistheascentoftheMonteBisbino，whichcanbeeasilymadeinadayfromMendrisio；Ifoundnodifficultyindoingitonfootallthewaythereandbackafewyearsago，butInowprefertotakeatrapasfarasSagno，anddotherestofthejourneyonfoot，returningtothetrapintheevening。EveryonewhoknowsNorthItalyknowstheMonteBisbino。Itisahighpyramidalmountainwithwhatseemsalittlewhitechapelonthetopthatglistenslikeastarwhenthesunisfulluponit。FromComoitisseenmostplainly，butitisdistinguishableoveraverylargepartofLombardywhenthesunisright；itisfrequentlyascendedfromComoandCernobbio，butIbelievetheeasiestwayofgettingupitistostartfromMendrisiowithatrapasfarasSagno。

AmileandahalforsoafterleavingMendrisiothereisavillagecalledCastelloontheleft。Here，alittleofftheroadontherighthand，thereisthesmallchurchofS。Cristoforo，ofgreatantiquity，containingtheremainsofsomeearlyfrescoes，Ishouldthinkofthethirteenthorearlypartofthefourteenthcentury。

Asusual，peoplehavescratchedtheirnamesonthefrescoes。Wefoundonename"Battista，"withthedate"1485"againstit。ItisamistaketoholdthattheEnglishscribbletheirnamesaboutmorethanotherpeople。TheItalianslikedoingthisjustaswellaswedo。LetthereadergotoVarallo，forexample，andnotethenamesscratchedupfromthebeginningofthesixteenthcenturytothepresentday，onthewallsofthechapelcontainingtheCrucifixion。

Indeed，theItaliansseemtohavebegunthehabitlongbeforewedid，forweveryrarelyfindnamesscratchedonEnglishbuildingssolongagoasthefifteenthcentury，whereasinItalytheyarecommon。TheearliestIcancalltomindinEnglandatthismoment(ofcourse，exceptingthenameswrittenintheBeauchampTower)isonthechurchporchatHarlington，wherethereisanamecutanddatedinoneoftheearlyyearsoftheseventeenthcentury。I

nevereveninItalysawanamescratchedonawallwithanearlierdatethan1480。

Whyisit，Iwonder，thattheselittlebitsofsoul-fossilasitwere，touchussomuchwhenwecomeacrossthem？Afossildoesnottouchus——whileaflyinamberdoes。Whyshouldaflyinamberinterestusandgiveusaslightlysolemnfeelingforamoment，whenthefossilofamegatheriumboresus？Igiveitup；butfewofuscanseethelightesttriflescratchedoffcasuallyandidlylongago，withoutlikingitbetterthanalmostanygreatthingofthesame，oreversomuchearlierdate，donewithpurposeandintentionthatitshouldremain。SowhenweleftS。Cristoforoitwasnottheoldchurch，northefrescoes，butthenameoftheidlefellowwhohadscratchedhisname"Battista……1485，"thatwecarriedawaywithus。Alittlebitofoldworldlifeandentirewantofearnestness，preservedasthoughitwereasmileinamber。

IntheValSesia，severalyearsago，IboughtsometobaccothatwaswrappedupformeinayellowoldMS。whichIinduecourseexamined。Itwasdated1797，andwasaleaffromthebookinwhichatannerusedtoentertheskinswhichhiscustomersbroughthimtobetanned。

"October24，"hewrites，"IreceivedfromSignoraSilvestre，calledthewidow，theskinofagoatbrandedintheneck——(Iamnottogiveitupunlesstheygivemeproofthatsheistherightfulowner。)Mem。IdeliveredittoMr。PeterJob(SignorPietroGiobbe)。

"October27——Ireceivetwosmallskinsofagoat，verythinandbrandedintheneck，fromGiuseppeGianoteofCampertogno。

"October29——IreceivethreeskinsofachamoisfromSignorAntonioCinereofAlagna，brandedintheneck。"Thenthereisasubsequententrywrittensmall。"Ireceivealsoalittlegraymarmot"sskinweighingthirtyounces。"

IamsorryIdidnotgetasheetwiththetanner"sname。Iamsurehewasanexcellentperson，andmighthavebeentrustedwithanynumberofskins，brandedorunbranded。Itisnearlyahundredyearsagosincethatlittlegraymarmot"sskinwastannedintheValSesia；butthewretchwillnotliequietinhisgrave；hewalks，andhashauntedmeonceamonthorsoanytimethistenyearspast。IwillseeifIcannotlayhimbyprevailingonhimtohauntsomeoneorotherofmyreaders。

CHAPTERXX——SanctuaryonMonteBisbinoButtoreturntoS。Cristoforo。IntheMiddleAgestherewasacertaindukewhoheldthispartofthecountryandwasnotoriousforhisexactions。OneChristmasevewhenheandhiswholehouseholdhadassembledtotheirdevotions，thepeopleroseupagainstthemandmurderedtheminsidethechurch。Afterthistragedy，thechurchwasdesecrated，thoughmonumentshavebeenputupontheoutsidewallseveninrecentyears。Thereisafinebitofearlyreligioussculptureoverthedoor，andthetracesofafrescoofChristwalkinguponthewater，alsoveryearly。

Returningtotheroadbyapathofacoupleofhundredyards，wedescendedtocrosstheriver，andthenascendedagaintoMorbioSuperiore。Theviewfromthepiazzainfrontofthechurchisveryfine，extendingoverthewholeMendrisiotto，andreachingasfarasVareseandtheLagoMaggiore。BelowisMorbioInferiore，aplaceofsingularbeauty。AcoupleofItalianfriendswerewithus，oneofthemSignorSpartacoVela，sonofProfessorVela。Hecalledusintothechurchandshowedusabeautifulaltar-piece——aMadonnawithsaintsoneitherside，apparentlymovedfromsomeearlierchurch，and，asweallagreed，averyfinework，thoughwecouldformnoideawhotheartistwas。

FromMorbioSuperioretheascentissteep，anditwilltakehalf-

an-hourormoretoreachthelevelbitofroadclosetoSagno。

This，again，commandsthemostexquisiteviews，especiallyoverComo，throughthetrunksofthetrees。ThencomesSagnoitself，thelastvillageoftheCantonTicinoandclosetotheItalianfrontier。Thereisnoinnwithsleepingaccommodationhere，butiftherewas，Sagnowouldbeaverygoodplacetostayat。TheysaythatsomeofitsinhabitantssometimessmuggleapoundortwooftobaccoacrosstheItalianfrontier，hidingitinthefernclosetotheboundary，andwhiskingitoverthelineonadarknight，butI

knownotwhattruththereisintheallegation；thepeoplestruckmeasbeingabovetheaverageinrespectofgoodlooksandgoodbreeding——andtheaverageinthosepartsisaveryhighone。

ImmediatelybehindSagnotheoldpavedpilgrim"sroadbeginstoascendrapidly。Wefollowedit，andinhalf-an-hourreachedthestonemarkingtheItalianboundary；thencomessomelevelwalking，andthenonturningacornerthemonasteryatthetopoftheMonteBisbinoiscaughtsightof。Itstilllookssmall，butonecannowseewhatanimportantbuildingitreallyis，andhowdifferentfromthemerechapelwhichitappearstobewhenseenfromadistance。

ThesketchwhichIgiveistakenfromaboutamilefurtheronthantheplacewherethesummitisfirstseen。

Heresomemenjoineduswholivedinahutafewhundredfeetfromthetopofthemountainandlookedafterthecattlethereduringthesummer。Itisattheiralpethatthelastwatercanbeobtained，soweresolvedtostaythereandeattheprovisionswehadbroughtwithus。Forthebenefitoftravellers，Ishouldsaytheywillfindthewaterbyopeningthedoorofakindofouthouse；

thiscoversthewaterandpreventsthecowsfromdirtyingit。

Therewillbeawoodenbowlfloatingonthetop。Thewateroutsideisnotdrinkable，butthatintheouthouseisexcellent。

Themenwereverygoodtous；theyknewme，havingseenmepassandwatchedmesketchinginotheryears。Ithadunfortunatelynowbeguntorain，soweweregladofshelter:theythrewfaggotsonthefireandsoonkindledablaze；whenthesedieddownanditwasseenthatthesparksclungtothekettleandsmoulderedonit，theysaidthatitwouldrainmuch，andtheywereright。Itpouredduringthehourwespentindining，afterwhichitonlygotalittlebetter；wethankedthem，andwentupfiveorsixhundredfeettillthemonasteryatlengthloomedoutsuddenlyuponusfromthemist，whenwewereclosetoitbutnotbefore。

Thereisarestaurantatthetopwhichisopenforafewdaysbeforeandafterafesta，butgenerallyclosed；itwasopennow，sowewentintodryourselves。Wefoundratheraroughishlotassembled，andimaginedthesmugglingelementtopreponderateoverthereligious，butnothingcouldbebetterthanthewayinwhichtheytreatedus。Therewasonegentleman，however，whowasnosmuggler，butwhohadlivedmanyyearsinLondonandhadnowsettleddownatRovenna，justbelowonthelakeofComo。Hehadtakenaroomhereandfurnisheditforthesakeoftheshooting。

HespokeperfectEnglish，andwouldhavenonebutEnglishthingsabouthim。HehadCockle"santibiliouspills，andthelastnumbersofthe"IllustratedLondonNews"and"MorningChronicle；"hisbathandbath-towelswereEnglish，andtherewasaboxofHuntley&

Palmer"sbiscuitsonhisdressing-table。HewasdelightedtoseesomeEnglishmen，andshoweduseverythingthatwastobeseen——

amongtherestthebirdshekeptincagestolurethosethatheintendedtoshoot。Healsotookusbehindthechurch，andtherewefoundaverybeautifulmarblestatueoftheMadonnaandchild，anadmirablework，withpaintedeyesandthedressgildedandfigured。

Whatanextraordinarynumberoffineor，attheleast，interestingthingsonefindsinItalywhichnooneknowsanythingabout。Inoneday，pokingaboutatrandom，wehadseensomeearlyfrescoesatS。Cristoforo，anexcellentworkatMorbio，andherewasanotherfinethingsprunguponus。ItisnotsafeevertopassachurchinItalywithoutexploringitcarefully。Thechurchmaybenewandforthemostpartfullofnothingbutwhatisodious，butthereisnoknowingwhatfragmentofearlierworkonemaynotfindpreserved。

SignorBarelli，forthiswasourfriend"sname，nowgaveussomeprintsofthesanctuary，oneofwhichIreproduceonp。240。

Behindthechurchthereisalevelpieceofgroundwithatableandstoneseatsroundit。Theviewfromhereinfineweatherisverystriking。Asitwas，however，itwasperhapshardlylessfinethaninclearweather，forthecloudshadnowraisedthemselvesalittle，thoughverylittle，abovethesanctuary，buthereandtherelayallraggeddownbelowus，andcastbeautifulreflectedlightsuponthelakeandtownofComo。

Above，theheavenswerestillblackandlowering。OveragainstuswastheMonteGeneroso，verysombre，andscarredwithsnow-whitetorrents；below，thedull，sullenslopesoftheMonteBisbino，andthelakeofComo；furtheron，theMendrisiottoandtheblue-blackplainsofLombardy。IhavebeenatthetopoftheMonteBisbinoseveraltimes，butneverwasmoreimpressedwithit。Atalltimes，however，itisamarvellousplace。

Comingdownwekepttheridgeofthehillinsteadoftakingthepathbywhichweascended。Beautifulviewsofthemonasteryarethusobtained。Theflowersinspringmustbeveryvaried；andwestillfoundtwoorthreelargekindsofgentiansandanynumberofcyclamens。PresentlyVeladugupafernrootofthecommonPolypodiumvulgare；hescrapeditwithhisknifeandgaveussometoeat。Itisnotatallbad，andtastesverymuchlikeliquorice。

ThenwecameuponthelittlechapelofS。Nicolao。Idonotknowwhetherthereisanythinggoodinsideorno。ThenwereachedSagnoandreturnedtoMendrisio；aswere-crossedthestreambetweenMorbioSuperioreandCastellowefoundithadbecomearagingtorrent，capableofanyvillainy。

CHAPTERXXI——ADayattheCantineNextdaywewenttobreakfastwithProfessorVela，thefatherofmyfriendSpartaco，atLigornetto。AfterwehadadmiredthemanyfineworkswhichProfessorVela"sstudiocontains，itwasagreedthatweshouldtakeawalkbyS。Agata，andspendtheafternoonatthecantine，orcellarswherethewineiskept。SpartacohadtwopainterfriendsstayingwithhimwhomIalreadyknew，andayounglady，hiscousin；soweallwenttogetheracrossthemeadows。I

thinkwestartedaboutoneo"clock，anditwassomethreeorfourbythetimewegottothecantine，forwekeptstoppingcontinuallytodrinkwine。Thetwopaintervisitorshadafinecomicvein，andenliveneduscontinuallywithbitsofstagebusinesswhichweresometimesuncommonlydroll。Wewerelaughingincessantly，butcarriedverylittleawaywithusexceptthatthedrieroneofthetwo，whowasalsounfortunatelydeaf，threwhimselfintoarhapsodicalattitudewithhismiddlefingeragainsthischeek，andhiseyesupturnedtoheaven，buttomakesurethathisfingershouldsticktohischeekhejustwettedtheendofitagainsthistonguefirst。Hedidthiswithunruffledgravity，andasifitweretheonlythingtodounderthecircumstances。

Theyoungladywhowaswithusallthetimeenjoyedeverythingjustasmuchaswedid；once，indeed，shethoughttheyweregoingalittletoofar——notasamongthemselves——butconsideringthattherewereacoupleofearnest-mindedEnglishmenwiththem:thepairhadbegunashortperformancewhichcertainlydidlookasifitmightdevelopintosomethingalittlehazardous。"Mingafartutto，"sheexclaimedratherpromptly——"Don"tdoall。"Sowhattherestwouldhavebeenweshallneverknow。

Thenwecametosomeprecipices，whereonitatonceoccurredtothetwocomediansthattheywouldcommitsuicide。Thepatheticwayinwhichtheysharedthecontentsoftheirpocketsamongus，andcamebackmorethanoncetogivelittleadditionalpartingmessageswhichoccurredtothemjustastheywereabouttotakethefatalplunge，wasirresistiblycomic，andwasthemoreremarkableforthespontaneousnessofthewholethingandtheadmirablewayinwhichthepairplayedintooneanother"shands。Thedeafoneevenplayedhisdeafness，makingitworsethanitwassoastoheightenthecomedy。Byandbywecametoastilewhichtheypretendedtohaveadelicacyincrossing，buttheladyhelpedthemover。WeconcludedthatiftheseyoungmenwereaveragespecimensoftheItalianstudent——andIshouldsaytheywere——theItaliancharacterhasanenormousfundofpureloveoffun——notofmischievousfun，butoftheverybestkindofplayfulhumour，suchasIhaveneverseenelsewhereexceptamongEnglishmen。

Severaltimeswestoppedandhadabottleofwineatoneplaceoranother，tillatlastwecametoabeautifulshadyplacelookingdowntowardsthelakeofLuganowhereweweretorestforhalf-an-

hourorso。Therewasacantinahere，soofcoursewehadmorewine。Inthatair，andwiththewalkandincessantstateoflaughterinwhichwewerebeingkept，wemightdrinkadlibitum，andtheladydidnotrefuseasecondsmallbicchiere。Onthisourdeaffriendassumedananxious，fatherlyair。Hesaidnothing，butputhiseyeglassinhiseye，andlookedfirstatthelady"sglassandthenattheladywithanexpressionatoncekind，pitying，andpained；helookedbackwardsandforwardsfromtheglasstotheladymorethanonce，andthenmadeasthoughheweregoingtoquitasceneinwhichitwasplainhecouldbeofnofurtheruse，throwinguphishandsandeyesliketheoldstewardinHogarth"s"Marriagealamode。"Theyneverseemedtotire，andeveryfreshincidentatoncesuggesteditsappropriatetreatment。Jonesaskedthemwhethertheythoughttheycouldmimicme。"Ohdear，yes，"wastheanswer；

"wehavemimickedhimhundredsoftimes，"andtheyatoncebegan。

AtlastwereachedProfessorVela"sowncantina，andhereweweretohaveourfinalbottle。Therewereseveralothercantinehardby，andotherpartiesthathadcomelikeourselvestotakeawalkandgetsomewine。Thepeoplebringtheireveningmealwiththemuptothecantinaandthensitonthewalloutside，orgotoaroughtableandeatit。Instead，infact，ofbringingtheirwinetotheirdinner，theytaketheirdinnertotheirwine。Therewasoneveryfatoldgentlemanwhohadgotthecornerofthewalltositon，andwassmokingacigarwithhiscoatoff。Hecomes，Iamtold，everydayataboutthreeduringthesummermonths，andsitsonthewalltillseven，whenhegoeshometobed，risingataboutfouro"clocknextmorning。Heseemedexceedinglygood-temperedandhappy。AnotherfamilywhoownedacantinaadjoiningProfessorVela"s，hadbroughttheireveningmealwiththem，andinsistedongivingusaquantityofexcellentrivercray-fishwhichlookedlikelittlelobsters。Imaybewrong，butIthoughtthisfamilylookedatusonceortwiceasthoughtheythoughtwewereseeingalittlemoreoftheItaliansabsolutelychezeuxthanstrangersoughttobeallowedtosee。Wecanonlysaywelikedallwesawsomuchthatwewouldfainseeitagain，andwereleftwiththeimpressionthatwewereamongthenicestandmostloveablepeopleintheworld。

Ihavesaidthatthecantinearethecellarswherethepeoplekeeptheirwine。Theyarecaveshollowedoutintothesideofthemountain，anditisonlycertainlocalitiesthataresuitableforthepurpose。Thecantine，therefore，ofanyvillagewillbealltogether。ThecantineofMendrisio，forexample，canbeseenfromtherailroad，allinarow，alittlebeforeonegetsintothetown；

theyformaplaceofreunionwherethevillageortownunitestounbenditselfonfesteorafterbusinesshours。Idonotknowexactlyhowtheymanageit，butfromtheinnermostchamberofeachcantinatheyrunasmallgalleryasfarastheycanintothemountain，andfromthisgallery，whichmaybeafootsquare，thereissuesastrongcurrentofwhat，insummer，isicycoldair，whileinwinteritfeelsquitewarm。Icouldunderstandtheequablenessofthetemperatureofthemountainatsomeyardsfromthesurfaceoftheground，causingthecantinatofeelcoolinsummerandwarminwinter，butIwasnotpreparedforthestrengthandicinessofthecoldcurrentthatcamefromthegallery。IhadnotbeenintheinnermostcantinatwominutesbeforeIfeltthoroughlychilledandinwantofagreatcoat。

Havingbeenshownthecantine，wetooksomeofthelittlecupswhicharekeptinsideandbegantodrink。Theselittlecupsarecommoncrockery，butatthebottomthereiswritten，VivaBacco，Vival"Italia，VivalaGioia，VivaVenere，orothersuchmatter；

theyaretobehadineverycrockeryshopthroughouttheMendrisiotto，andareverypretty。Wedrankoutofthem，andatethecray-fishwhichhadbeengivenus。Thenseeingthatitwasgettinglate，wereturnedtogethertoBesazio，andthereparted，theydescendingtoLigornettoandwetoMendrisio，afteradaywhichIshouldbegladtothinkwouldbeaslongandpleasantlyrememberedbyourItalianfriendsasitwillassuredlybebyourselves。

TheexcursionsintheneighbourhoodofMendrisioareendless。Thewalk，forexample，toS。AgataandthencetoMerideisexquisite。

S。Agataitselfisperfect，andcommandsasplendidview。ThenthereisthelittlechapelofS。Nicolaoonaledgeoftheredprecipice。ThewalktothisbythevillageofSommazzoisasgoodasanythingcanbe，andthequietterraceleadingtothechurchdoorwillnotbeforgottenbythosewhohaveseenit。Sommazzoitselffromtheothersideofthevalleycomesasonp。247。ThereisCragno，again，ontheMonteGeneroso，orRivawithitsseriesofpicturesintemperabythebrothersGiulioCesareandCamilloProcaccini，menwho，hadtheylivedbeforethedaysofacademics，mighthavedoneaswellasany，exceptthefewwhomnoacademycanmould，butwho，asitwas，werecarriedawaybyfluencyandfacility。Itisuseless，however，tospecify。Thereisnotoneofthemanyvillageswhichcanbeseenfromanyrisinggroundintheneighbourhood，butwhatcontainssomethingthatispicturesqueandinteresting，whilethecoupd"oeil，asawhole，isalwaysequallystriking，whetheroneisontheplainandlookstowardsthemountains，orlooksfromthemountainstotheplains。

CHAPTERXXII——SacroMonte，VareseFromMendrisiowetookatrapacrossthecountrytoVarese，passingthroughStabbio，wheretherearesomebathsthataremuchfrequentedbyItaliansinthesummer。Theroadisapleasantone，butdoesnotgothroughanyspeciallyremarkableplaces。

Travellerstakingthisroadhadbetterleaveeverycigarettebehindthemonwhichtheydonotwanttopayduty，asthecustom-houseofficialatthefrontiertakesastrictviewofwhatisduetohisemployers。Ihad，perhaps，acoupleofouncesoftobaccoinmypouch，butwasmadetopaydutyonit，andthesearchingofoursmallamountofluggagewaslittlelessthaninquisitorial。

FromVaresewewentwithoutstoppingtotheSacroMonte，fourorfivemilesbeyond，andseveralhundredfeethigherthanthetownitself。Closetothefirstchapel，andjustbelowthearchthroughwhichthemoresacredpartofthemountainisenteredupon，thereisanexcellenthotelcalledtheHotelRiposo，keptbySignorPiotti；itisverycomfortable，andnotatalltoohoteveninthedog-days；itcommandsmagnificentviews，andmakesverygoodheadquarters。

Herewerestedandwatchedthepilgrimsgoingupanddown。Theyseemedverygood-humouredandmerry。Thenwelookedthroughthegratingofthefirstchapelinsidethearch，andfoundittocontainarepresentationoftheAnnunciation。TheVirginhadarealwashing-stand，withabasinandjug，andapieceofrealsoap。

Herslippersweredisposedneatlyunderthebed，soalsowerehershoes，and，ifIrememberrightly，therewaseverythingelsethatMessrs。Heal&Co。wouldsendforthefurnishingofalady"sbedroom。

Ihavealreadysaidperhapstoomuchabouttherealismofthesegroupsofpaintedstatuary，butwillventureawordortwomorewhichmayhelpthereadertounderstandthematterbetterasitappearstoCatholicsthemselves。Theobjectistobringthesceneasvividlyaspossiblebeforepeoplewhohavenothadtheopportunityofbeingabletorealiseittothemselvesthroughtravelorgeneralcultivationoftheimaginativefaculties。HowcananItalianpeasantrealisetohimselfthenotionoftheAnnunciationsowellasbyseeingsuchachapelasthatatVarese？

Commonsensesays，eithertellthepeasantnothingabouttheAnnunciation，orputeveryfacilityinhiswaybythehelpofwhichhewillbeabletoconceivetheideawithsomedefiniteness。

Westuffthedeadbodiesofbirdsandanimalswhichwethinkitworthwhiletoputintoourmuseums。Weputtheminthemostlife-

likeattitudeswecan，withbitsofgrassandbush，andpaintedlandscapebehindthem:bydoingthiswegivepeoplewhohaveneverseentheactualanimals，amorevividideaconcerningthemthanweknowhowtogivebyanyothermeans。WehavenotroomintheBritishMuseumtogivealoosereintorealisminthematterofaccessories，buteachbirdoranimalinthecollectionissostuffedastomakeitlookasmuchaliveasthestuffercanmakeit——eventotheinsertionofglasseyes。Wethinkitwellthatourpeopleshouldhaveanopportunityofrealisingthesebirdsandbeaststothemselves，butweareshockedatthenotionofgivingthemasimilaraidtotherealisationofeventswhich，aswesay，concernthemmorenearlythananyothers，inthehistoryoftheworld。Astuffedrabbitorblackbirdisagoodthing。AstuffedChargeofBalaclavaagainisquitelegitimate；butastuffedNativityis，accordingtoProtestantnotions，offensive。

OverandabovethedesiretohelpthemassestorealisetheeventsinChrist"slifemorevividly，somethingisdoubtlessduetothewishtoattractpeoplebygivingthemwhattheylike。Thisisbothnaturalandlegitimate。Ourownrectorsfindtheprettiestpsalmandhymntunestheycanfortheuseoftheircongregations，andtakemuchpainsgenerallytobeautifytheirchurches。WhyshouldnottheChurchofRomemakeherselfattractivealso？IfsheknowsbetterhowtodothisthanProtestantchurchesdo，smallblametoherforthat。Forthepeopledelightinthesegravenimages。

Listentothehushed"ohbel!"whichfallsfromthemastheypeepthroughgratingaftergrating；andthemoretawdryachapelis，thebetter，asageneralrule，theyarecontented。TheylikethemasourownpeoplelikeMadameTussaud"s。Grantedthattheycometoworshiptheimages；theydo；theyhardlyattempttoconcealit。

ThewriteroftheauthorisedhandbooktotheSacroMonteatLocarno，forexample，speaksof"thesolemncoronationoftheimagethatisthererevered"——"lasolennecoronazionedelsimulacroivivenerato"(p。7)。Buthow，pray，canweavoidworshippingimages？

orlovingimages？TheactuallivingformofChristonearthwasstillnotChrist，itwasbuttheimageunderwhichHisdisciplessawHim；norcanweseemoreofanyofthosewelovethanacertainmoreversatileandwarmerpresentmentofthemthananartistcancounterfeit。Theultimate"them"weseenot。

Howfarthesechapelshavedoneallthattheirfoundersexpectedofthemisanothermatter。TheyhaveundoubtedlystrengthenedthehandsoftheChurchintheirimmediateneighbourhood，andtheyhavegivenanincalculableamountofpleasure，butIthinkthatintheMiddleAgespeopleexpectedofartmorethanartcando。Theyhopedafineworkofartwouldexerciseadeepandpermanenteffectuponthelivesofthosewholivednearit。Doubtlessitdoeshavesomeeffect——enoughtomakeitworthwhiletoencouragesuchworks，butneverthelesstheeffectis，Iimagine，verytransient。Theonlythingthatcanproduceadeepandpermanentlygoodinfluenceuponaman"scharacteristohavebeenbegottenofgoodancestorsformanygenerations——oratanyratetohaverevertedtoagoodancestor——andtoliveamongnicepeople。

ThechapelsthemselvesatVarese，apartfromtheircontents，areverybeautiful。TheycomeasfreshoneaftertheotherasasetofvariationsbyHandel。Eachoneofthemisalittlearchitecturalgem，whilethefigurestheycontainaresometimesverygood，thoughonthewholenotequaltothoseatVarallo。Thesubjectsarethemysteriesofjoy，namely，theAnnunciation(immediatelyafterthefirstgreatarchispassed)，theSalutationofMarybyElizabeth，theNativity，thePresentation，andtheDisputingwiththeDoctors。

Thenthereisasecondarch，afterwhichcomethemysteriesofgrief——theAgonyintheGarden，theFlagellation，theCrowningwithThorns，theAscenttoCalvary，andtheCrucifixion。Passingthroughathirdarch，wecometothemysteriesofglory——theResurrection，theAscension，theDescentoftheHolyGhost，andtheAssumptionoftheVirginMary。TheDisputeintheTempleisthechapelwhichleftthedeepestimpressionuponus。Herethevariousattitudesandexpressionsofthedoctorsareadmirablyrendered。

Thereisoneman，Ithinkhemusthavebeenabroadchurchmanandhavetakeninthe"Spectator"；hisarmsarefolded，andheissmilingalittle，withhisheadononeside。Heisnotprepared，heseemstosay，todenythatthereisacertainelementoftruthinwhatthisyoungpersonhasbeensaying，butitisveryshallow，andinallessentialpointshasbeenrefutedoverandoveragain；

hehasseenthesethingscomeandgosooften，&c。Butallthedoctorsaregood。TheChristisweak，andsoaretheJosephandMaryinthebackground；infact，throughoutthewholeseriesofchapelsthewickedorworldlyandindifferentpeoplearewelldone，whilethesaintsareafeeblefolk:thesculptorevidentlyneitherunderstoodthemnorlikedthem，andcouldnevergetbeyondsilliness；buttheartistwhohaslatelydonethemuphasmadethemstillweakerandsillierbygivingthemallpinknoses。

Shortlyafterthesixthchapelhasbeenpassedtheroadturnsacorner，andthetownonthehill(seeprecedingpage)comesintofullview。Thisisasingularlybeautifulspot。Thechapelsareworthcomingalongwaytosee，butthisviewofthetownisbetterstill:wegenerallylikeanybuildingthatisonthetopofahill；itisaninstinctinournaturetodoso；itisaremnantofthesameinstinctwhichmakessheepliketocampatthetopofahill；itgivesaremotesenseofsecurityandvantage-groundagainstanenemy。TheItaliansseemhardlyabletolookatahighplacewithoutlongingtoputsomethingonthetopofit，andtheyhaveseldomdonesowithbettereffectthaninthecaseoftheSacroMonteatVarese。Fromthemomentofitsburstingupononeonturningthecornerneartheseventh，orFlagellationchapel，onecannotkeepone"seyesoffit，andonefancies，aswithS。Michele，thatitcomesbetterandbetterwitheverysteponetakes；nearthetopitcomposes，asonp。254，butwithoutcolournothingcangiveanadequatenotionofitsextremebeauty。Onceatthetoptheinterestcentresinthehiggledy-piggledinessofthehouses，thegaycoloursoftheboothswherestringsofbeadsandotherreligiousknick-knacksaresold，thegloriouspanorama，andintheinnwhereonecandineverywell，andIshouldimaginefindgoodsleepingaccommodation。Theviewfromthebalconyoutsidethedining-roomiswonderful，andaboveisasketchfromtheterracejustinfrontofthechurch。

ThereisherenosinglebuildingcomparabletothesanctuaryofSammichele，noristhereanytraceofthatbeautifulLombardworkwhichmakessomuchimpressionupononeinthechurchontheMontePirchiriano；thearchitectureislate，andbarocco，nottosayrococo，reignseverywhere；neverthelesstheeffectofthechurchisgood。Thevisitorshouldgetthesacristantoshowhimaveryfinepagliottooraltarclothofraisedembroidery，workedinthethirteenthcentury。HewillalsodowelltowalksomelittledistancebehindthetownonthewaytoS。Mariadeifiori(St。Maryoftheflowers)andlookdownuponthetownandLombardy。Idonotthinkheneedgomuchhigherthanthis，unlesshehasafancyforclimbing。

TheSacroMonteisakindofecclesiasticalRoshervilleGardens，eminentlytheplacetospendahappyday。Wehappenedbygoodlucktobethereduringoneofthegreatfesteoftheyear，andsawIamafraidtosayhowmanythousandsofpilgrimsgoupanddown。Theywereadmirablybehaved，andnotoneofthemtipsy。TherewasanoldEnglishgentlemanattheHotelRiposowhotoldusthattherehadbeenanothersuchfestanotmanyweekspreviously，andthathehadseenonedrunkenmanthere——anEnglishman——whokeptabusingallhesawandcryingout，"Manchester"stheplaceforme。"

Theprocessionswerebestatthelastpartoftheascent；therewerepilgrims，alldeckedoutwithcolouredfeathers，andpriestsandbannersandmusicandcrimsonandgoldandwhiteandglitteringbrassagainstthecloudlessbluesky。Theoldpriestsatathisopenwindowtoreceivetheofferingsofthedevoutastheypassed；

buthedidnotseemtogetmorethanafewbambinimodelledinwax。

Perhapshewasusedtoit。Andthebandplayedthebaroccomusiconthebaroccolittlepiazzaandwewereallbaroccotogether。ItwasasthoughtheclergymanatLadywellhadgivenoutthat，insteadofhavingserviceusual，thecongregationwouldgoinprocessiontotheCrystalPalacewithalltheirtraps，andthatthebandhadbeenpractising"Waittillthecloudsrollby"forsometime，andonSundayasagreattreattheyshouldhaveit。

ThePopehasissuedanordersayinghewillnothavemasseswrittenlikeoperas。Itisnouse。ThePopecandomuch，buthewillnotbeabletogetcontrapuntalmusicintoVarese。Hewillnotbeabletogetanythingmoresolemnthan"LaFilledeMadameAngot"intoVarese。Asforfugues-!IwouldassoontakeanEnglishbishoptotheSurreypantomimeastotheSacroMonteonafesta。

Thenthepilgrimswentintotheshadowofagreatrockbehindthesanctuary，spreadthemselvesoutoverthegrassanddined。

CHAPTERXXIII——AngeraandAronaFromtheHotelRiposowedrovetoAngera，ontheLagoMaggiore。

Therearemanyinterestingthingstoseeontheway。ClosetoVelate，forexample，thereisthemagnificentbitofruinwhichissostrikingafeatureasseenfromtheSacroMonte。Alittlefurtheron，atLuinate，thereisafineoldLombardcampanileandsomeconventualbuildingswhichareworthsparingfiveminutesorsotosee。TheviewshereaboutsoverthelakeofVareseandtowardsMonteRosaareexceedinglyfine。ThedrivershouldbetoldtogoamileorsooutofhisdirectrouteinordertopassOltrona，nearVoltrone。Heretherewasamonasterywhichmustoncehavebeenanimportantone。Littleofoldworkremains，exceptaverybeautifulcloisterofthethirteenthorfourteenthcentury，whichshouldnotbemissed。Itmeasuresabouttwenty-onepaceseachway:thenorthsidehasroundarchesmadeofbrick，thearchesaresupportedbysmallcolumnsaboutsixinchesthrough，eachofwhichhasadifferentcapital；themiddleisnowgardenground。AfewmilesnearerAngerathereisBrebbia，thechurchofwhichisanexcellentspecimenofearlyLombardwork。WethoughtwesawthetraditionsofCyclopeanmasonryintheoccasionalirregularityofthestring-courses。Thestonesnearthebottomofthewallareverymassive，andthewestwallisnot，ifIrememberrightly，bondedintothenorthandsouthwalls，butthesewallsareonlybuiltupagainstitasatGiornico。Thedooronthesouthsideissimple，butremarkablybeautiful。ItlooksalmostasifitmightbelongtosomeearlyNormanchurchinEngland，andthestoneshaveacquiredamostexquisitewarmcolourwithage。AtIsprathereisacampanilewhichMr。Ruskinwouldprobablydisapproveof，butwhichwethoughtlovely。Afewkilometresfurtheronacorneristurned，andthesplendidcastleofAngeraiscaughtsightof。

Beforegoinguptothecastlewestayedattheinnontheleftimmediatelyonenteringthetown，todine。Theygaveusaverygooddinner，andthegardenwasadelightfulplacetodinein。

Thereisakindofredchampagnemadehereaboutswhichisverygood；thefigswereripe，andwecouldgatherthemforourselvesandeatadlibitum。Thereweretwotamesparrowshoppingcontinuallyaboutus；theypretendedtomakealittlefussaboutallowingthemselvestobecaught，buttheyevidentlydidnotmindit。Idroppedabitofbreadandwasstoopingtopickitup；oneofthemonseeingmemovemadeforitandcarrieditoffatonce；