第3章

Thechild，beinginweaklyhealth，diedbeforeGiovannicouldrepairhisoversight，andthispreyeduponhismind。Inanswer，however，tohisearnestprayers，itpleasedtheAlmightytogivehimpowertoraisethedeadchildtolifeagain:thishedid，andhavingimmediatelyperformedtheriteofconfirmation，restoredtheboytohisoverjoyedmother。Henowbecamesomuchreveredthathebegantobealarmedlestprideshouldobtaindominionoverhim；hefelt，therefore，thathisonlycoursewastoresignhisdiocese，andgoandlivethelifeofarecluseonthetopofsomehighmountain。Itissaidthathesufferedagoniesofdoubtastowhetheritwasnotselfishofhimtotakesuchcareofhisowneternalwelfare，attheexpenseofthatofhisflock，whomnosuccessorcouldsowellguideandguardfromevil；butintheendhetookareasonableviewofthematter，andconcludedthathisfirstdutywastosecurehisownspiritualposition。Nothingshortofthetopofaveryuncomfortablemountaincoulddothis，soheatonceresignedhisbishopricandchoseMonteCaprasioasonthewholethemostcomfortableuncomfortablemountainhecouldfind。

ThelatterpartofthestorywillseemstrangetoEnglishmen。WecanhardlyfancytheArchbishopofCanterburyorYorkresigninghisdioceseandsettlingdownquietlyonthetopofScafellorCaderIdristosecurehiseternalwelfare。TheywouldhardlydosoevenonthetopofPrimroseHill。Butninehundredyearsagohumannaturewasnotthesameasnowadays。

ThevalleyofSusa，thenlittleelsethanmarshandforest，washeldbyamarquisofthenameofArduin，adescendantofaFrenchorNormanadventurerRoger，who，withabrother，alsonamedArduin，hadcometoseekhisfortuneinItalyatthebeginningofthetenthcentury。Rogerhadason，ArduinGlabrio，whorecoveredthevalleyofSusafromtheSaracens，andestablishedhimselfatSusa，atthejunctionoftheroadsthatcomedownfromMontCenisandtheMontGenevre。Hebuiltacastleherewhichcommandedthevalley，andwashisbaseofoperationsasLordoftheMarchesandWardenoftheAlps。

HughdeMontboissierappliedtoArduinforleavetobuildupontheMontePirchiriano。ArduinwasthenholdinghiscourtatAvigliana，asmalltownnearS。Ambrogio，evennowsingularlylittlealtered，andfullofmediaevalremains；henotonlygavehisconsent，butvolunteeredtosellasitetothemonastery，soastoensureitagainstfuturedisturbance。

ThefirstchurchofGiovanniVincenzohadbeenbuiltuponwhateverlittlespacecouldbefounduponthetopofthemountain，without，sofarasIcangather，enlargingthegroundartificially。Thepresentchurch——theone，thatistosay，builtbyHughdeMontboissieraboutA。D。1000——restsalmostentirelyuponstonepiersandmasonry。Therockhasbeenmaskedbyaloftygranitewallofseveralfeetinthickness，whichpresentssomethingofakeep-likeappearance。Thespectatornaturallyimaginesthattherearerooms，&c。，behindthiswall，whereasinpointoffactthereisnothingbutthestaircaseleadinguptothefloorofthechurch。

Archesspringfromthismaskingwall，andarecontinuedthenceuntiltherockisreached；itisonthelevelsurfacethusobtainedthatthechurchrests。Thetruefloor，therefore，doesnotbegintillnearwhatappearsfromtheoutsidetobethetopofthebuilding。

Thereissomeuncertaintyastotheexactdateofthefoundationofthemonastery，butClaretta{11}inclinesdecidedlytothedate999，asagainst966，theoneassignedbyMabillonandTorraneo。

Clarettareliesonthediscovery，byProvana，ofadocumentintheroyalarchiveswhichseemstoplacethematterbeyonddispute。ThefirstabbotwasundoubtedlyAvvertoorArveo，whoestablishedtherulesoftheBenedictineOrderinhismonastery。"InthesevenhoursofdailyworkprescribedbytheBenedictinerule，"writesCesareBalbo，"innumerablewerethefieldstheyploughed，andthehousestheybuiltindeserts，whileinmorefrequentedplacesmenwerelayingcultivatedgroundwaste，anddestroyingbuildings:

innumerable，again，weretheworksoftheholyfathersandofancientauthorswhichwerecopiedandpreserved。"{12}

Fromthistimeforwardthemonasteryreceivedgiftsinlandandprivileges，andbecameinafewyearsthemostimportantreligiousestablishmentinthatpartofItaly。

Therehavebeenseveralfires——one，amongothers，intheyear1340，whichdestroyedagreatpartofthemonastery，andsomeofthedeedsunderwhichitheldvaluablegrants；butthoughthepartinhabitedbythemonksmayhavebeenrebuiltoraddedto，thechurchiscertainlyuntouched。

CHAPTERVIII——S。Michele(continued)

Ihadoftenseenthiswonderfulpileofbuildings，andhadmarvelledatit，asallmustdowhopassfromSusatoTurin，butI

neverwentactuallyuptoittilllastsummer，incompanywithmyfriendandcollaborateur，Mr。H。F。Jones。WereachedS。AmbrogiostationonesultryeveninginJuly，and，beforemanyminuteswereover，wereonthepaththatleadstoSanPietro，alittlemorethananhour"swalkaboveS。Ambrogio。

InspiteofwhatIhavesaidaboutKent，Surrey，andSussex，wefoundourselvesthinkinghowthinandwanting，asitwere，inadiposecushioniseveryothercountryincomparisonwithItaly；

butthecharmisenhancedinthesedaysbythefeelingthatitcanbereachedsoeasily。Wednesdaymorning，FleetStreet；Thursdayevening，apathuponthequietmountainside，undertheoverspreadingchestnuts，withLombardyatone"sfeet。

Sometwentyminutesafterwehadbeguntoclimb，thesanctuarybecamelosttosight，largedropsofthunder-rainbegantofall，andbythetimewereachedSanPietroitwaspouringheavily，andhadbecomequitedark。Anhourorsolatertheskyhadcleared，andtherewasasplendidmoon:openingthewindows，wefoundourselveslookingoverthetopsoftreesontosomelovelyuplandpastures，onawindingpaththroughwhichwecouldalmostfancywesawayouthledbyanangel，andtherewasadogwithhim，andheheldafishinhishand。FarbelowwerelightsfromvillagesinthevalleyoftheDora。Aboveusrosethemountains，bathedinshadow，orglitteringinthemoonbeams，andtherecamefromthemthepleasantmurmuringofstreamletsthathadbeenswollenbythestorm。

Nextmorningtheskywascloudlessandtheairinvigorating。S。

Ambrogio，atthefootofthemountain，mustbesome800feetabovethesea，andSanPietroabout1500feetaboveS。Ambrogio。Thesanctuaryatthetopofthemountainis2800feetabovethesea-

level，orabout500feetaboveSanPietro。AsituationmoredelightfulthanthatofSanPietroitisimpossibletoconceive。

Itcontainssome200inhabitants，andliesonaledgeoflevelland，whichis，ofcourse，coveredwiththemostbeautifullygreengrass，andinspringcarpetedwithwild-flowers；greatbroad-leavedchestnutsrisefromoutthemeadows，andbeneaththeirshadearestrewnmassesofsobermulberry-colouredrock；butabovealltheserisesthegreatfeatureoftheplace，fromwhich，whenitisinsight，theeyescanhardlybediverted，——ImeanthesanctuaryofS。

Micheleitself。

Asketchgivesbutlittleideaoftheplace。InnatureitappearsasoneofthosefascinatingthingslikethesmokefromVesuvius，orthetownontheSacroMonteatVarese，whichtakepossessionofonetotheexclusionofallelse，aslongastheyareinsight。Fromeachpointofviewitbecomesmoreandmorestriking。ClimbinguptoitfromSanPietroandgettingatlastnearlyonalevelwiththelowerpartsofthebuilding，oragainkeepingtoapathwayalongthesideofthemountaintowardsAvigliana，itwillcomeasonthefollowingpage。

[Atthispointthereisapictureinthebook]

Thereisaverybeautifulviewfromnearthespotwherethefirstofthesesketchesistaken。Wearethenontheveryridgeorcrestofthemountain，andlookdownontheonehanduponthevalleyoftheDoragoinguptoSusa，withtheglaciersoftheMontCenisinthebackground，andontheotherupontheplainsnearTurin，withthecollineboundingthehorizon。ImmediatelybeneathisseentheglaringwhitestraightlineoftheoldMontCenisroad，lookingmuchmoreimportantthanthedingynarrowlittlestripofrailroadthathassupersededit。Thetrainsthatpassalongthelinelooknobiggerthancaterpillars，butevenatthisdistancetheymakeagreatroar。Ifthepathfromwhichthesecondviewistakenisfollowedforaquarterofanhourorso，anothernolessbeautifulpointisreachedfromwhichonecanlookdownuponthetwosmalllakesofAvigliana。TheselakessupplyTurinwithwater，and，I

mayadd，withthebestwaterthatIknowofassuppliedtoanytown。

Wewillnowreturntotheplacefromwhichthefirstofthesketchesonp。95wastaken，andproceedtothesanctuaryitself。

Passingthesmallbutverymassivecircularruinshownontherighthandofthesketch，aboutwhichnothingwhateverisknowneitherasregardsitsdateorobject，weascendbyagentleinclinetotheoutergateofthesanctuary。Thebatteredplatesofironthatcoverthewoodendoorsaremarkedwithmanyabullet。Thenwekeepundercoverforashortspace，afterwhichwefindourselvesatthefootofalongflightofsteps。Closebythereisalittleterracewithawallroundit，whereonecanstandandenjoyaviewoverthevalleyoftheDoratoTurin。

Havingascendedthesteps，weareatthemainentrancetothebuilding——amassiveLombarddoorway，evidentlytheoriginalone。

Inthespaceabovethedoortherehavebeentwofrescoes，anearlierandalaterone，onepaintedovertheother，butnothingnowremainssavethesignatureofthesecondpainter，signedinGothiccharacters。Onentering，morestepsmustbeatonceclimbed，andthenthestaircaseturnsatrightanglesandtendstowardstherock。

Attheheadoftheflightshownp。98，thenaturalrockappears。

Thearchaboveitformsarecessfilledwithdesiccatedcorpses。

Thegreatpiertotheleft，and，indeed，allthemasonrythatcanbeseen，hasnootherobjectthantoobtainspacefor，andtosupport，thefloorofthechurchitself。Mydrawingwastakenfromaboutthelevelofthetopofthearchwaythroughwhichthebuildingisentered。Therecomesinatthispointathirdsmallstaircasefrombehind；ascendingthis，onefindsone"sselfinthewindowabovethedoor，fromthebalconyofwhichthereisamarvellouspanorama。Itookadvantageofthewindowtomeasurethethicknessofthewalls，andfoundthemalittleoversevenfeetthickandbuiltofmassivegraniteblocks。Thestonesontheinsidearesosharpandcleancutthattheylookasiftheywerenotmorethanfiftyyearsold。Ontheoutside，thegranite，hardasitis，ismuchweathered，which，indeed，consideringtheexposedsituation，ishardlytobewonderedat。

Hereagainhowthewindmusthowlandwhistle，andhowthesnowmustbeatinwinter!Noonewhohasnotseensnowfallingduringatimewhenthethermometerisaboutatzerocanknowhowsearchingathingitis。Howsoftlywoulditnotlieupontheskullsandshouldersoftheskeletons。FancyadulldarkJanuaryafternoon"stwilightuponthisstaircase，afteraheavysnow，whenthesoftfleececlingstothewalls，havingdriftedinthroughmanyanopening。Orfancyabrilliantwinter"smoonlight，withthemoonfallingupontheskeletonsaftersnow。Andthenlettherebeaburstofmusicfromanorganinthechurchabove(Iamsorrytosaytheyhaveonlyaharmonium；Iwishsomeonewouldgivethemafineorgan)。Ishouldlikethefollowingforexample:-{13}

[Atthispointinthebookamusicscoreisgiven]

Howthiswouldsounduponthesestairs，iftheywouldleavethechurch-dooropen。ItissaidinMurray"shandbookthatformerlythecorpseswhicharenowunderthearch，usedtobeplacedinasittingpositionuponthestairs，andthepeasantswouldcrownthemwithflowers。Fancytwilightormoonlightonthesestairs，withthecorpsessittingamongthewitheredflowersandsnow，andthepealingofagreatorgan。

Afterascendingthestepsthatleadtowardstheskeletons，weturnagainsharproundtotheleft，andcomeuponanothernobleflight——

broadandlofty，andcutingreatmeasurefromthelivingrock。

AtthetopofthisflighttherearetwosetsofLombardportals，bothofthemveryfine，butinsuchdarknessandsoplacedthatitwasimpossibletogetadrawingofthemindetail。Afterpassingthroughthem，thestaircaseturnsagain，and，asfarasIcanremember，sometwentyorthirtystepsbringoneuptothelevelofthetopofthearchwhichformstherecesswherethecorpsesare。

HerethereisanotherbeautifulLombarddoorway，withasmallarcadeoneithersidewhichIthoughtEnglish，ratherthanItalian，incharacter。Animpressionwasproduceduponbothofusthatthisdoorwayandthearcadeoneithersidewerebyadifferentarchitectfromthetwolowerarchways，andfromtheinsideofthechurch；oratanyrate，thatthedetailsoftheenrichmentwerecutbyadifferentmason，organgofmasons。Ithink，however，thewholedoorwayisinalaterstyle，andmusthavebeenputinaftersomefirehaddestroyedtheearlierone。

Openingthedoor，whichbydayisalwaysunlocked，wefoundourselvesinthechurchitself。AsIhavesaid，itisofpureLombardarchitecture，andverygoodofitskind；Idonotthinkithasbeentouchedsincethebeginningoftheeleventhcentury，exceptthatithasbeenre-roofedandthepitchoftheroofaltered。Atthebaseofthemostwesterlyofthethreepiersthatdividethenavefromtheaisles，therecropsoutasmallpieceofthelivingrock；thisisattheendfarthestfromthechoir。ItisnotlikelythatGiovanniVincenzo"schurchreachedeastofthispoint，forfromthispointonwardstowardsthechoirthefloorisartificiallysupported，andthesupportingstructureisdueentirelytoHugodeMontboissier。Thepartoftheoriginalchurchwhichstillremainsisperhapsthewall，whichformsthewesternlimitofthepresentchurch。Thiswallisnotexternal。Itformstheeasternwallofalargechamberwithfrescoes。Iamnotsurethatthischamberdoesnotoccupythewholespaceoftheoriginalchurch。

Thereareafewnicevotivepicturesinthechurch，andoneortwoveryearlyfrescoes，whicharenotwithoutinterest；butthemaincharmoftheplaceisinthearchitecture，andthesenseatonceofageandstrengthwhichitproduces。ThestockthingstoseearethevaultsinwhichmanyofthemembersoftheroyalhouseofSavoy，legitimateandillegitimate，lieburied；theyneednot，however，beseen。

Ihavesaidthatthewholebuildingisofmuchaboutthesamedate，and，unlessperhapsintheresidentialparts，aboutwhichIcansaylittle，hasnotbeenaltered。ThisisnottheviewtakenbytheauthorofMurray"sHandbookforNorthItaly，whosaysthat"injudiciousrepairshavemarredtheeffectofthebuilding；"butthiswriterhasfallenintoseveralerrors。Hetalks，forexample，ofthe"openLombardgalleryofsmallcirculararches"asbeing"oneoftheoldestandmostcuriousfeaturesofthebuilding，"

whereasitisobviouslynoolderthantherestofthechurch，northanthekeep-likeconstructionuponwhichitrests。Again，heisclearlyinerrorwhenhesaysthatthe"extremelybeautifulcirculararchbywhichwepassfromthestaircasetothecorridorleadingtothechurch，isavestigeoftheoriginalbuilding。"Thedoubleroundarchedportalsthroughwhichwepassfromthemainstaircasetothecorridorareofexactlythesamedateasthestaircaseitself，andastherestofthechurch。TheycertainlyformednopartofGiovanniVincenzo"sedifice；for，besidesbeingfartoorich，theyarenotonalevelwithwhatremainsofthatbuilding，butseveralfeetbelowit。Itishardtoknowwhatthewritermeansby"theoriginalbuilding；"heappearstothinkitextendedtothepresentchoir，which，hesays，"retainstracesofanearlierage。"Thechoirretainsnosuchtraces。Theonlyremainsoftheoriginalchurchareatthebackofthewestend，invisiblefromtheinsideofthechurch，andattheoppositeendtothechoir。Asforthechurchbeing"inaplainGothicstyle，"itisanextremelybeautifulexampleofpureLombard，ofthefirstfewyearsoftheeleventhcentury。True，themiddlearchofthethreewhichdividethenavefromtheaislesispointed，whereasthetwoothersareround，butthisisevidentlydonetoeconomisespace，whichwashereunusuallycostly。Therewasroomformorethantworoundarches，butnotroomenoughforthree，soitwasdecidedtodockthemiddlearchalittle。Itisashe-arch——thatistosay，ithasnokeystone，butisformedsimplybyproppingtwosegmentsofacircleoneagainsttheother。ItcertainlyisnotaGothicarch；itisaLombardarch，modifiedinanunusualmanner，owingtoitshavingbeenbuiltunderunusualconditions。

ThevisitorshouldonnoaccountomittoringthebellandasktobeshowntheopenLombardgalleryalreadyreferredtoasrunningroundtheoutsideofthechoir。Itiswellworthwalkingroundthis，ifonlyfortheview。

Theofficialwhoshowedusroundwasverykind，andasapersonalfavourwewereallowedtovisitthefathers"privategarden。Thelargearm-chairsaremadeoutofclippedbox-trees。Whileonourwaytothegardenwepassedaspotwheretherewasanalarmingbuzzing，andfoundourselvessurroundedbywhatappearedtobeanangryswarmofbees；closerinspectionshowedthatthehostwasamedleyone，composedofwasps，hugehornets，hive-bees，humble-

bees，flies，dragon-flies，butterflies，andallkindsofinsects，flyingaboutasinglepatchofivyinfullblossom，whichattractedthemsostronglythattheyneglectedeverythingelse。Ithinksomeofthemwereintoxicated。Ifthiswasso，thenperhapsBacchusiscalled"ivy-crowned"becauseivy-blossomsintoxicateinsects，butI

neverremembertohavebeforeobservedthativy-blossomshadanyspecialattractionforinsects。

Ihaveforgottentosayanythingaboutabeamofwoodwhichmaybeseenstandingoutatrightanglesfromthetowertotherightofthemainbuilding。ThisIbelievetohavebeenthegallows。

AnotherlikeitmaybeseenatS。Giorio，butIhavenotgotitinmysketchofthatplace。TheattendantwhotookusroundS。

Micheledeniedthatitwasthegallows，butIthinkitmusthavebeen。Also，theattendantshowedusoneplacewhichiscalledIlSaltodellabelleAlda。Aldawasbeingpursuedbyasoldier；topreserveherhonour，sheleapedfromawindowandfelloveraprecipicesomehundredsoffeetbelow；bytheintercessionoftheVirginshewassaved，butbecamesomuchelatedthatshedeterminedtorepeatthefeat。Shejumpedasecondtimefromthewindow，butwasdashedtopieces。Weweretoldthisasbeingunworthyofactualcredence，butasalegendoftheplace。Wesaidwefoundnogreatdifficultyinbelievingthefirsthalfofthestory，butcouldhardlybelievethatanyonewouldjumpfromthatwindowtwice。{14}

CHAPTERIX——TheNorthItalianPriesthoodThereisnowaschoolinthesanctuary；wemettheboysseveraltimes。Theyseemedwellcaredforandcontented。Thepriestswhoresideinthesanctuarywerecourtesyitself；theytookawarminterestinEngland，andwereanxiousforanyinformationIcouldgivethemaboutthemonasterynearLoughborough——anamewhichtheyhadmuchdifficultyinpronouncing。Theywereperfectlytolerant，andreadytoextendtootherstheconsiderationtheyexpectedforthemselves。Thisshouldnotbesayingmuch，butasthingsgoitissayingagooddeal。Whatindeedmorecanbewishedfor？

Thefacesofsuchpriestsasthese——andIshouldsaysuchpriestsformafullhalfoftheNorthItalianpriesthood——areperfectlyfreefromthatbadfurtiveexpressionwhichweassociatewithpriestcraft，andwhich，whenseen，cannotbemistaken:theirfacesarethoseofourownbestEnglishcountryclergy，withperhapsatriflelessfleshaboutthemandatriflemoreofanotunkindlyasceticism。

ComparingourownclergywiththebestNorthItalianandTicinesepriests，Ishouldsaytherewaslittletochoosebetweenthem。Thelatterareinalogicallystrongerposition，andthisgivesthemgreatercourageintheiropinions；theformerhavetheadvantageinrespectofmoney，andthemorevariedknowledgeoftheworldwhichmoneywillcommand。WhenIsayCatholicshavelogicallytheadvantageoverProtestants，Imeanthatstartingfrompremiseswhichbothsidesadmit，amerelylogicalProtestantwillfindhimselfdriventotheChurchofRome。Mostmenastheygrowolderwill，Ithink，feelthis，andtheywillseeinittheexplanationofthecomparativelynarrowareaoverwhichtheReformationextended，andofthegainwhichCatholicismhasmadeoflateyearshereinEngland。Ontheotherhand，reasonablepeoplewilllookwithdistrustupontoomuchreason。Thefoundationsofactionliedeeperthanreasoncanreach。Theyrestonfaith——forthereisnoabsolutelycertainincontrovertiblepremisewhichcanbelaidbyman，anymorethanthereisanyinvestmentformoneyorsecurityinthedailyaffairsoflifewhichisabsolutelyunimpeachable。Thefundsarenotabsolutelysale；avolcanomightbreakoutundertheBankofEngland。Arailwayjourneyisnotabsolutelysafe；oneperson，atleast，inseveralmillionsgetskilled。Weinvestourmoneyuponfaithmainly。Wechooseourdoctoruponfaith，forhowlittleindependentjudgmentcanweformconcerninghiscapacity？

Wechooseschoolsforourchildrenchieflyuponfaith。Themostimportantthingsamanhasarehisbody，hissoul，andhismoney。

Itisgenerallybetterforhimtocommittheseintereststothecareofothersofwhomhecanknowlittle，ratherthanbehisownmedicalman，orinvesthismoneyonhisownjudgment；andthisisnothingelsethanmakingafaithwhichliesdeeperthanreasoncanreach，thebasisofouractioninthoserespectswhichtouchusmostnearly。

Ontheotherhand，asgoodacasecouldbemadeoutforplacingreasonasthefoundation，inasmuchasitwouldbeeasytoshowthatafaith，tobeworthanything，mustbeareasonableone——one，thatistosay，whichisbaseduponreason。Thefactis，thatfaithandreasonarelikedesireandpower，ordemandandsupply；itisimpossibletosaywhichcomesfirst:theycomeuphandinhand，andaresosmallwhenwecanfirstdescrythem，thatitisimpossibletosaywhichwefirstcaughtsightof。Allwecannowseeisthateachhasatendencycontinuallytooutstriptheotherbyalittle

butbyaverylittleonly。Strictlytheyarenottwothings，buttwoaspectsofonething；forconveniencesake，however，weclassifythemseparately。

Itfollows，therefore——butwhetheritfollowsorno，itiscertainlytrue——thatneitherfaithalonenorreasonaloneisasufficientguide:aman"ssafetyliesneitherinfaithnorreason，butintemper——inthepoweroffusingfaithandreason，evenwhentheyappearmostmutuallydestructive。Amanoftemperwillbecertaininspiteofuncertainty，andatthesametimeuncertaininspiteofcertainty；reasonableinspiteofhisrestingmainlyuponfaithratherthanreason，andfulloffaithevenwhenappealingmoststronglytoreason。Ifitisasked，Inwhatshouldamanhavefaith？Towhatfaithshouldheturnwhenreasonhasledhimtoaconclusionwhichhedistrusts？theansweris，Tothecurrentfeelingamongthosewhomhemostlooksupto——lookinguponhimselfwithsuspicionifheiseitheramongtheforemostorthelaggers。

Intherough，homelycommonsenseofthecommunitytowhichwebelongwehaveasfirmgroundascanbegot。This，thoughnotabsolutelyinfallible，issecureenoughforpracticalpurposes。

AsIhavesaid，Catholicpriestshaveratherafascinationforme——

whentheyarenotEnglishmen。IshouldsaythatthebestNorthItalianpriestsaremoreopenlytolerantthanourEnglishclergygenerallyare。Irememberpickinguponewhowaswalkingalongaroad，andgivinghimaliftinmytrap。Ofcoursewefelltotalking，anditcameoutthatIwasamemberoftheChurchofEngland。"Ebbene，caroSignore，"saidhewhenweshookhandsatparting；"mirincrescecheLeinoncredecomeme，mainquestitempinonpossiamoaveretuttiimedesimiprincipii。"{15}

ItravelledanotherdayfromSusatoS。Ambrogiowithapriest，whotoldmehetookin"TheCatholicTimes，"andwhowaswelluptodateonEnglishmatters。BeingmyselfaConservative，Ifoundhisopinionssoundonallpointsbutone——IrefertotheIrishquestion:hehadnosympathywiththeobstructionistsinParliament，butneverthelessthoughttheIrishwereharshlytreated。IexplainedmattersaswellasIcould，andfoundhimverywillingtolistentooursideofthequestion。

Theonething，hesaid，whichshockedhimwiththeEnglish，wasthemannerinwhichtheywentaboutdistributingtractsupontheContinent。Isaidnoonecoulddeplorethepracticemoreprofoundlythanmyself，butthattherewerestupidandconceitedpeopleineverycountry，whowouldinsistuponthrustingtheiropinionsuponpeoplewhodidnotwantthem。HerepliedthattheItalianstravellednotalittleinEngland，butthathewassurenotoneofthemwoulddreamofofferingCatholictractstopeople，forexample，inthestreetsofLondon。CertainlyIhaveneverseenanItaliantobeguiltyofsuchrudeness。Itseemstomethatitisnotonlytolerationthatisaduty；weoughttogobeyondthisnow；weshouldconform，whenweareamongasufficientnumberofthosewhowouldnotunderstandourrefusaltodoso；anyothercourseistoattachtoomuchimportanceatoncetoourownopinionsandtothoseofouropponents。Byallmeansletamanstandbyhisconvictionswhentheoccasionrequires，butlethimreservehisstrength，unlessitisimperativelycalledfor。Donotlethimexaggeratetrifles，andlethimrememberthateverythingisatrifleincomparisonwiththenotgivingoffencetoalargenumberofkindly，simple-mindedpeople。Evolution，asweallknow，isthegreatdoctrineofmoderntimes；theveryessenceofevolutionconsistsinthenotshockinganythingtooviolently，butenablingittomistakeanewactionforanoldone，without"makingbelieve"

toomuch。

OnedaywhenIwaseatingmylunchnearafountain，therecameupamoody，meditativehen，crooningplaintivelyafterherwont。I

threwheracrumbofbreadwhileshewasstillagoodwayoff，andthenthrewmore，gettinghertocomealittlecloserandalittleclosereachtime；atlastsheactuallytookapiecefrommyhand。

Shedidnotquitelikeit，butshedidit。Thisistheevolutionprinciple；andifwewishthosewhodifferfromustounderstandus，itistheonlymethodtoproceedupon。IhavesometimesthoughtthatsomeofmyfriendsamongthepriestshavebeentreatingmeasItreatedthemeditativehen。Butwhatofthat？

Theywillnotkillandeatme，nortakemyeggs。Whatever，therefore，promotesamorefriendlyfeelingbetweenusmustbepuregain。

ThemistakeouradvancedLiberalsmakeisthatofflingingmuchtoolargepiecesofbreadatatime，andflingingthemattheirhen，insteadofalittlewayoffher。Ofcoursethehenisflutteredanddrivenaway。Sometimes，too，theydonotsufficientlydistinguishbetweenbreadandstones。

Asageneralrule，thecommonpeopletreatthepriestsrespectfully，butonceIheardseveralattackingonewarmlyonthescoreofeternalpunishment。"Sara，"saidone，"percentoanni，percinquecento，permilleoforseperdiecimilleanni，manonsaraeterna；percheilDioeunuomoforte——grande，generoso，dibuoncuore。"{16}AnItaliantoldmeoncethatifeverIcameuponapriestwhomIwantedtotease，IwastoaskhimifheknewaplacecalledLaTorrePellice。Ihaveneveryethadthechanceofdoingthis；for，thoughIamfairlyquickatseeingwhetherIamlikelytogetonwithapriestorno，Ifindthepriestisgenerallyfairlyquicktoo；andIamnosoonerinadiligenceorrailwaycarriagewithanunsympatheticpriest，thanhecurlshimselfroundintoamoralballandprayshorribly——bristlingoutwithcollectsalloverlikeacross-grainedspiritualhedgehog。

Partly，therefore，fromhavingnowishtogooutofmywaytomakemyselfobnoxious，andpartlythroughtheoppositepartybeingdeterminedthatIshallnotgetthechance，thequestionaboutLaTorrePellicehasnevercomeoff，andIdonotknowwhatapriestwouldsayifthesubjectwereintroduced，——butIdidgetatalkingaboutLaTorrePelliceallthesame。

IwasgoingfromTurintoPinerolo，andfoundmyselfseatedoppositeafine-lookingelderlygentlemanwhowasreadingapaperheaded，"LeTemoin，EchodesValleesVaudoises":fortheVaudois，orWaldenses，thoughontheItaliansideoftheAlps，areFrenchinlanguageandperhapsinorigin。Ifelltotalkingwiththisgentleman，andfoundhewasonhiswaytoLaTorrePellice，theheadquartersofindigenousItalianevangelicism。Hetoldmetherewereabout25，000inhabitantsofthesevalleys，andthattheywerewithoutexceptionProtestant，orratherthattheyhadneveracceptedCatholicism，buthadretainedtheprimitiveApostolicfaithinitsoriginalpurity。HehintedtomethattheyweredescendantsofsomeoneormoreofthelosttentribesofIsrael。

TheEnglish，hetoldme(meaning，Igather，theEnglishoftheEnglandthataffectsExeterHall)，haddonegreatthingsfortheinhabitantsofLaTorreatdifferenttimes，andtherewerestreetscalledtheViaWilliamsandViaBeckwith。Theywere，hesaid，averygrowingsect，andhadmissionariesandestablishmentsinalltheprincipalcitiesinNorthItaly；infact，sofarasIcouldgather，theywereasaggressiveasmalcontentsgenerallyare，and，Italiansthoughtheywere，wouldgiveawaytractsjustasreadilyaswedo。Ididnot，therefore，gotoLaTorre。

Sometimespriestssaythings，asamatterofcourse，whichwouldmakeanyEnglishclergyman"shairstandonend。Atonetownthereisaremarkablefourteenth-centurybridge，commonlyknownas"TheDevil"sBridge。"Iwassketchingnearthiswhenajollyoldpriestwitharednosecameupandbeganaconversationwithme。Hewasevidentlyapopularcharacter，foreveryonewhopassedgreetedhim。Hetoldmethatthedevildidnotreallybuildthebridge。I

saidIpresumednot，forhewasnotinthehabitofspendinghistimesowell。

"Iwishhehadbuiltit，"saidmyfriend；"forthenperhapshewouldbuildussomemore。"

"Orwemightevengetachurchoutofhim，"saidI，alittleslyly。

"Ha，ha，ha!wewillconverthim，andmakeagoodChristianofhimintheend。"

WhenwillourProtestantism，orRationalism，orwhateveritmaybe，sitaslightlyuponourselves？

CHAPTERX——S。AmbrogioandNeighbourhoodSincetheopeningoftherailway，theoldinnwherethediligencesandprivatecarriagesusedtostophasbeenclosed；butIwasmade，inahomelyway，extremelycomfortableattheScudodiFrancia，keptbySignorBonaudoandhiswife。Istayedhereoverafortnight，duringwhichImadeseveralexcursions。

OnedayIwenttoSanGiorio，asitisalwayswrittenthoughSanGiorgioisevidentlyintended。Herethereisaruinedcastle，beautifullyplaceduponahill；thiscastleshowswellfromtherailwayshortlyafterleavingBussolenostation，ontherighthandgoingtowardsTurin。Havingbeenstruckwithit，IwentbytraintoBussoleno(wherethereismuchthatIwasunwillinglycompelledtoneglect)，andwalkedbacktoSanGiorio。Onmyway，however，I

sawapatchofCima-da-Conegliano-lookingmeadow-landonahillsomewayaboveme，andonthisthererosefromamongthechestnutswhatlookedlikeacastellatedmansion。Ithoughtitwelltomakeadigressiontothis，andwhenIgotthere，afteralovelywalk，knockedatthedoor，havingbeentoldbypeasantsthattherewouldbenodifficultyaboutmytakingalookround。TheplaceiscalledtheCastelBurrello，andistenantedbyanoldpriestwhohasretiredhithertoendhisdays。Isentinmycardandbusinessbyhisservant，andby-and-byhecameouttomehimself。

"VousetesAnglais，monsieur？"saidheinFrench。

"Oui，monsieur。"

"VousetesCatholique？"

"Monsieur，jesuisdelareligiondemesperes。"

"Pardon，monsieur，vosancetresetaientCatholiquesjusqu"autempsdeHenriVIII。"

"MaisilyatroiscentansdepuisletempsdeHenriVIII。"

"Ehbien!chacunasesconvictions；vousneparlezpascontrelareligion？"

"Jamais，jamais，monsieur；j"aiunrespectenormepourl"EgliseCatholique。"

"Monsieur，faitescommechezvous；allezouvousvoulez；voustrouvereztouteslesportesouvertes。Amusez-vousbien。"

Hethenexplainedtomethatthecastlehadneverbeenaproperlyfortifiedplace，beingintendedonlyasasummerresidenceforthebaronsofBussoleno，whousedtoresorthitherduringtheextremeheat，iftimesweretolerablyquiet。Afterthisheleftme。

Takinghimathisword，Iwalkedallround，buttherewasonlyashellremaining；therestofthebuildinghadevidentlybeenburnt，eventhewinginwhichthepresentproprietorresidesbeing，ifI

rememberrightly，modernised。Thesite，however，andtheslopingmeadowswhichthecastlecrowns，areofextremebeauty。

InowwalkeddowntoSanGiorio，andfoundasmallinnwhereI

couldgetbread，butter，eggs，andgoodwine。Iwaswaiteduponbyagood-naturedboy，thesonofthelandlord，whowasaccompaniedbyahawkthatsatalwayseitheruponhishandorshoulder。AsI

lookedatthepairIthoughttheywereverymuchalike，andcertainlytheywereverymuchinlovewithoneanother。AfterdinnerIsketchedthecastle。WhileIwasdoingso，agentlemantoldmethatalargebreachinthewallwasmadeafewyearsago，andapartofthewallfoundtobehollow，thebottomofthehollowpartbeingunwittinglyremoved，therefellthroughaskeletoninafullsuitofarmour。Others，whomIasked，hadheardnothingofthis。

Talkingofhawks，Isawagoodmanyboyswithtameyounghawksinthevillagesroundabout。TherewasatamehawkatthestationofS。Ambrogio。Thestation-mastersaiditusedtogonowandagaintothechurch-steepletocatchsparrows，butwouldalwaysreturninanhourortwo。Beforemystaywasoveritgotinthewayofapassingtrainandwasrunover。

Youngbirdsaremucheateninthisneighbourhood。Thehousesandbarns，nottosaythesteeplesofthechurches，aretobeseenstuckaboutwithwhatlookliketerra-cottawater-bottleswiththenecksoutwards。Twoorthreemaybeseenintheillustrationonp。

113outsidethewindowthatcomesoutoftheroof，ontheleft-handsideofthepicture。IhaveseensomeoutsideanItalianrestaurantnearLewisham。Theyareartificialbird"s-nestsforthesparrowstobuildin:assoonastheyoungareoldenoughtheyaretakenandmadeintoapie。Thechurch-towerneartheHoteldelaPosteatLanzoismorestuckaboutwiththemthananyotherbuildingthatIhaveseen。

Swallowsandhawksareabouttheonlybirdswhoseyoungarenoteaten。OneafternoonImetaboywithajayonhisfinger:havingimprudentlymadeadvancestothisyounggentlemaninthehopesofgettingacquaintedwiththebird，hesaidhethoughtIhadbetterbuyitandhaveitformydinner；butIdidnotfancyit。AnotherdayIsawthepadronaattheinn-doortalkingtoalad，whopulledopenhisshirt-frontandshowedsometwentyorthirtynestlingsinthesimplepocketformedbyhisshirtontheonesideandhisskinupontheother。ThepadronawantedmetosayIshouldliketoeatthem，inwhichcaseshewouldhaveboughtthem；butonecannotgetallthenonsenseonehearsathomeoutofone"sheadinamoment，andIamafraidIpreachedalittle。Thepadrona，whoisoneofthemostfascinatingwomenintheworld，andatsixtyisstillhandsome，lookedalittlevexedandpuzzled:sheadmittedthetruthofwhatIsaid，butpleadedthattheboysfounditveryhardtogainafewsoldi，andifpeopledidn"tkillandeatonething，theywouldanother。TheresultofitallwasthatIdeterminedforthefuturetoleaveyoungbirdstotheirfate；theyandtheboysmustsettlethatmatterbetweenthemselves。Iftheyoungbirdwasaboy，andtheboyayoungbird，itwouldhavebeentheboywhowastakenruthlesslyfromhisnestandeaten。Anoldbirdhasnorighttohaveahomestead，andayoungbirdhasnorighttoexistatall，unlesstheycankeepbothhomesteadandexistenceoutofthewayofboyswhoareinwantofhalf-pence。Itisallperfectlyright，andwhenwegoandstayamongthesecharmingpeople，letusdosoaslearners，notasteachers。

Iwatchedthepadronagettingmysupperready。Withwhatartdonotthesepeoplemanagetheirfire。TheNewZealandMaorissaythewhitemanisafool:"Hemakesalargefire，andthenhastositawayfromit；theMaorimakesasmallfire，andsitsoverit。"TheschemeofanItaliankitchen-fireisthatthereshallalwaysbeonestoutlogsmoulderingonthehearth，fromwhichafewlivecoalsmaybechippedoffifwanted，andputintothesmallsquaregratingswhichareusedforstewingorroasting。Anywarmingup，orshorterboiling，isdoneontheMaoriprincipleofmakingasmallfireoflightdrywood，andfeedingitfrequently。Theyeconomiseeverything。ThusIsawthepadronawashsomehen"seggswellincoldwater；Ididnotseewhysheshouldwashthembeforeboilingthem，butpresentlythesoupwhichIwastohaveformysupperbegantoboil。Thensheputtheeggsintothesoupandboiledtheminit。

AftersupperIhadatalkwiththepadrone，whotoldmeIwasworkingtoohard。"Totamnoctem，"saidheinLatin，"lavoravimusetnihilincepimus。"("Wehavelabouredallnightandtakennothing。")"Oh!"hecontinued，"Ihaveeyesandearsinmyhead。"

Andashespoke，withhisrighthandhedrewdownhislowereyelid，andwithhisleftpinchedthepigofhisear。"Youwillbeillifyougoonlikethis。"Thenhelaidhishandalonghischeek，puthisheadononeside，andshuthiseyes，toimitateasickmaninbed。OnthisIarrangedtogoanexcursionwithhimonthedayfollowingtoafarmhehadafewmilesoff，andtowhichhewenteveryFriday。

WewenttoBorgonestation，andwalkedacrossthevalleytoavillagecalledVillarFochiardo。Thencewebegangentlytoascend，passingundersomenoblechestnuts。SignorBonaudosaidthatthisisoneofthebestchestnut-growingdistrictsinItaly。Agoodtree，hetoldme，wouldgiveitsfortyfrancsayear。Thisseemsasthoughchestnut-growingmustbelucrative，foranacreshouldcarrysomefiveorsixtrees，andthereisnooutlaytospeakof。

Besidesthechestnuts，thelandgivesastillfurtherreturnbywayofthegrassthatgrowsbeneaththem。Walnutsdonotyieldnearlysomuchpertreeaschestnutsdo。Inthree-quartersofanhourorsowereachedSignorBonaudo"sfarm，whichwascalledtheCasinadiBanda。Thebuildingshadoncebeenamonastery，foundedatthebeginningoftheseventeenthcenturyandsecularisedbythefirstNapoleon，buthadbeenpurchasedfromthestateafewyearsagobySignorBonaudo，inpartnershipwiththreeothers，afterthepassingoftheChurchPropertyAct。Itisbeautifullysituatedsomehundredsoffeetabovethevalley，andcommandsalovelyviewoftheComba，asitiscalled，orCombeofSusa。TheaccompanyingsketchwillgiveanideaoftheviewlookingtowardsTurin。Thelargebuildingonthehillis，ofcourse，S。Michele。TheverydistantdomeistheSupergaontheothersideofTurin。

ThefirstthingSignorBonaudodidwhenhegottohisfarmwastoseewhetherthewaterhadbeendulyturnedontohisownportionoftheestate。Eachofthefourpurchasershadhisseparateportion，andeachhadarighttothewaterforthirty-sixhoursperweek。

SignorBonaudowentroundwithhishindatonce，andsawthatthedamsintheductsweresoopenedorclosedthathisownlandwasbeingirrigated。

Nothingcanexceedtheingenuitywithwhichthelittlecanalsarearrangedsothateachpartofameadow，howeverundulating，shallbesaturatedequally。Thepeopleareveryjealousoftheirwaterrights，andindeednotunnaturally，fortheyieldofgrassdependsinverygreatmeasureupontheamountofirrigationwhichthelandcanget。

Thematterofthewaterhavingbeenseento，wewenttothemonastery，or，asitnowis，thehomestead。Asweenteredthefarmyardwefoundtwocowsfighting，andagreatstrappingwenchbelabouringtheminordertoseparatethem。"Letthemalone，"saidthepadrone；"letthemfightitouthereonthelevelground。"

Thenheexplainedtomethathewishedthemtofindoutwhichwasmistress，andfalleachofthemintoherproperplace，foriftheyfoughtontheroughhillsidestheymighteasilybreakeachother"snecks。

Wewalkedalloverthemonastery。Thedaywassteamywithfrequentshowers，andthunderstormsintheair。Theroomsweredarkandmouldy，andsmeltratherofrancidcheese，butitwasnotabadsortoframblingoldplace，andifthoroughlydoneupwouldmakeadelightfulinn。Thereisareportthatthereishiddentreasurehere。IdonotknowasingleoldcastleormonasteryinNorthItalyaboutwhichnosuchreportiscurrent，butinthepresentcasethereseemsmorethanusualground(sothehindtoldme)forbelievingthestorytobewellfounded，forthemonksdidcertainlysmeltthequartzintheneighbourhood，andasnogoldwaseverknowntoleavethemonastery，itismostlikelythatalltheenormousquantitywhichtheymusthavemadeinthecourseofsometwocenturiesisstilluponthepremises，ifonecouldonlylayone"shandsuponit。Soreasonabledidthisseem，thatabouttwoyearsagoitwasresolvedtocallinasomnambulistorclairvoyantfromTurin，who，whenhearrivedatthespot，becameseizedwithconvulsions，betokeningofcoursethattherewastreasurenotfaroff:theseconvulsionsincreasedtillhereachedthechoirofthechapel，andhereheswooned——fallingdownasifdead，andbeingresuscitatedwithapparentdifficulty。Heafterwardsdeclaredthatitwasinthischapelthatthetreasurewashidden。Inspiteofallthis，however，thechapelhasnotbeenturnedupsidedownandransacked，perhapsfromfearofoffendingthesainttowhomitisdedicated。

Inthechapelthereareafewvotivepictures，butnotverystrikingones。Ihurriedlysketchedone，buthavefailedtodoitjustice。Thehindsawmecopyingthelittlegirlinbed，andIhadanimpressionasthoughhedidnotquiteunderstandmymotive。I

toldhimIhadadearlittlegirlofmyownathome，whohadbeenalarminglyillinthespring，andthatthispictureremindedmeofher。Thismadeeverythingquitecomfortable。

WehadbroughtupourdinnerfromS。Ambrogio，andateitinwhathadbeentherefectoryofthemonastery。Thewindowswerebroken，andtheswallows，whohadbuiltupontheceilinginsidetheroom，keptflyingclosetousallthetimewewereeating。Greatmallowsandhollyhockspeeredinatthewindow，andbeyondthemtherewasaprettyDevonshire-lookingorchard。Thenoontidesunstreamedinatintervalsbetweentheshowers。

Afterdinnerwewent"alcrestodellacollina"——tothecrestofthehill——touseSignorBonaudo"swords，andlookeddownuponS。

Giorio，andtheothervillagesoftheCombeofSusa。Nothingcouldbemoredelightful。Then，gettingunderthechestnuts，ImadethesketchwhichIhavealreadygiven。WhilemakingitIwasaccostedbyanunderjawedman(thereisanunusuallylargepercentageofunderjawedpeopleintheneighbourhoodofS。Ambrogio)，whoaskedwhethermytakingthissketchmustnotbeconsideredasasignthatwarwasimminent。Thepeopleinthisvalleyhavebitterandcomparativelyrecentexperienceofwar，andarealarmedatanythingwhichtheyfancymayindicateitsrecurrence。Talkingfurtherwithhim，hesaid，"Herewehavenosignori；weneednottakeoffourhatstoanyoneexceptthepriest。Wegrowallweeat，wespinandweaveallwewear；ifalltheworldexceptourownvalleywereblottedout，itwouldmakenodifference，solongasweremainasweareandunmolested。"Hewasawild，weird，St。JohntheBaptistlookingperson，withshaggyhair，andanAndreaMantegnesquefeelingabouthim。IgavehimapipeofEnglishtobacco，whichheseemedtorelish，andsoweparted。

IstayedaweekorsoatanotherplacenotahundredmilesfromSusa，butIwillnotnameit，forfearofcausingoffence。Itwassituatedhigh，abovethevalleyoftheDora，amongthepastures，andjustabouttheupperlimitofthechestnuts。Itoffersasummerretreat，ofwhichthepeopleinTurinavailthemselvesinconsiderablenumbers。TheinnwasamoresophisticatedonethanSignorBonaudo"shouseatS。Ambrogio，andtherewereseveralTurinpeoplestayingthereaswellasmyself，buttherewerenoEnglish。

DuringthewholetimeIwasinthatneighbourhoodIsawnotasingleEnglish，French，orGermantourist。Thewaysoftheinn，therefore，wereexclusivelyItalian，andIhadabetteropportunityofseeingtheItaliansastheyareamongthemselvesthanIeverhadbefore。

Nothingstruckmemorethantheeasytermsonwhicheveryone，includingthewaiter，appearedtobewitheveryoneelse。This，whichinEnglandwouldbeimpossible，isherenotonlypossiblebutamatterofcourse，becausethegeneralstandardofgoodbreedingisdistinctlyhigherthanitisamongourselves。IdonotmeantosaythattherearenorudeorunmannerlyItalians，butthattherearefewerinproportionthanthereareinanyothernationwithwhichIhaveacquaintance。Thisisnottobewonderedat，fortheItalianshavehadacivilisationfornowsomethreeorfourthousandyears，whereasallothernationsare，comparativelyspeaking，newcountries，withasomethingevenyetofcolonialroughnesspervadingthem。AsthecoloniestoEngland，soisEnglandtoItalyinrespectoftheaveragestandardofcourtesyandgoodmanners。Inanewcountryeverythinghasatendencytogowildagain，manincluded；andthelongercivilisationhasexistedinanycountrythemoretrustworthyandagreeablewillitsinhabitantsbe。Thisprefaceisnecessary，asexplaininghowitispossiblethatthingscanbedoneinItalywithoutoffencewhichwouldbeintolerableelsewhere；butIconfesstofeelingratherhopelessofbeingabletodescribewhatIactuallysawwithoutgivingawrongimpressionconcerningit。

Amongthevisitorswastheheadconfidentialclerkofawell-knownMilanesehouse，withhiswifeandsister。Thesisterwasaninvalid，andsoalsowasthehusband，butthewifewasaveryprettywomanandaverymerryone。Thewaiterwasagood-lookingyoungfellowofaboutfive-and-twenty，andbetweenhimandSignoraBonvicino——forwewillsaythiswastheclerk"sname——theresprangupaviolentflirtation，allopenandaboveboard。Thewaiterwasevidentlyveryfondofher，butsaidthemostatrociouslyimpudentthingstoherfromtimetotime。DiningundertheverandaatthenexttableIheardtheSignoracomplainthatthecutletswereburnt。Sotheywere——verybadlyburnt。Thewaiterlookedatthemforamoment——threwheracontemptuousglance，clearlyintendedtoprovokewar——"Chinonhaappetito{17}……"heexclaimed，andwasmovingoffwithashrugoftheshoulders。TheSignorarecognisingachallenge，roseinstantlyfromthetable，andcatchinghimbythenapeofhisneck，kickedhimdeftlydownstairsintothekitchen，bothlaughingheartily，andthehusbandandsisterjoining。Ineversawanythingmoreneatlydone。Ofcourse，inafewminutessomefreshandquiteunexceptionablecutletsmadetheirappearance。

Anothermorning，whenIcamedowntobreakfast，Ifoundanaltercationgoingonbetweenthesamepairastowhetherthelady"snosewastoolargeornot。Itwasnotatalltoolarge。Itwasaveryprettylittlenose。Thewaiterwasmaintainingthatitwastoolarge，andtheladythatitwasnot。

OneeveningSignorBonvicinotoldmethathisemployerhadaverylargeconnectioninEngland，andthatthoughhehadneverbeeninLondon，heknewallaboutitalmostaswellasifhehad。Thegreatcentreofbusiness，hesaid，wasinRedLionSquare。Itwasherehisemployer"sagentresided，andthiswasamoreimportantpartthaneventhecityproper。Ithrewadroportwoofcoldwateronthis，butwithoutavail。PresentlyIaskedwhatthewaiter"snamewas，nothavingbeenabletocatchit。IaskedthisoftheSignora，andsawalittlelookonherfaceasthoughshewerenotquitepreparedtoreply。Notunderstandingthis，I

repeatedmyquestion。

"Oh!hisnameisCesare，"wastheanswer。

"Cesare!butthatisnotthenameIhearyoucallhimby。"

"Well，perhapsnot；wegenerallycallhimCricco，"{18}andshelookedasifshehadsuddenlyrememberedhavingbeentoldthatthereweresuchthingsasprigs，andmight，foraughtsheknew，beinthepresenceofoneofthesecreaturesnow。

Herhusbandcametotherescue。"Yes，"saidhe，"hisrealnameisJuliusCaesar，butwecallhimCricco。Criccoeunnomedipaese；

parlandocosinonsioffendelareligione。"{19}

TheRomanCatholicreligion，iflefttoitselfandnotcompelledtobeintrospective，ismorekindlyandlessgiventotakingoffencethanoutsidersgenerallybelieve。AttheSacroMonteofVaresetheyselllittleroundtinboxesthatlooklikemedals，andcontainpicturesofallthechapels。InthelidoftheboxthereisashortprintedaccountoftheSacroMonte，whichwindsupwiththewords，"Lareligioneelostupendopanoramatiranonumerosiedallegrivisitatori。"{20}

Ourpeoplearemuchtooearnesttoallowthataviewcouldhaveanythingtodowithtakingpeopleuptothetopofahillwheretherewasacathedral，orthatpeoplecouldbe"merry"whileonanerrandconnectedwithreligion。

OnleavingthisplaceIwantedtosaygood-byetoSignoraBonvicino，andcouldnotfindher；afteratimeIheardshewasatthefountain，soIwentandfoundheronherkneeswashingherhusband"sandherownclothes，withherprettyroundarmsbarenearlytotheshoulder。