第2章

Thechurchhasbeenagooddealrestoredduringthelastfewyears，andaninterestingoldchapel——withanaltarinit——atwhichmasswassaidduringatimeofplague，whilethepeoplestoodsomewayoffinameadow，hasjustbeenentirelyrenovated；butaswithsomeEnglishchurches，themorecloselyapieceofoldworkiscopiedthemorepalpablydoesthemodernspiritshowthroughit，soheretheoppositeoccurs，fortheold-worldlinessoftheplacehasnotbeenimpairedbymuchrenovation，thoughtheintentionhasbeentomakeeverythingasmodernaspossible。

IknowfewthingsmoretouchingintheirwaythantheporchofRossurachurch。Itisdatedearlyinthelastcentury，andisabsolutelywithoutornament；theflightofstepsinsideitleaduptothelevelofthefloorofthechurch。OnelovelysummerSundaymorning，passingthechurchbetimes，Isawthepeoplekneelinguponthesesteps，thechurchwithinbeingcrammed。Inthedarkerlightoftheporch，theytoldoutagainsttheskythatshowedthroughtheopenarchbeyondthem；farawaytheeyerestedonthemountains——

deepbluesavewherethesnowstilllingered。Ineversawanythingmorebeautiful——andtheseforsootharethepeoplewhomsomanyofusthinktobetterbydistributingtractsaboutProtestantismamongthem!

WhileIwaslooking，therecameasoundofmusicthroughtheopendoor——thepeopleliftinguptheirvoicesandsinging，asnearasI

canremember，somethingwhichonthepianowouldcomethus:-

[Atthispointinthebookamusicscoreisgiven]

Ilikedtheporchalmostbestunderanaspectwhichitnolongerpresents。Onesummeranopeningwasmadeinthewestwall，whichwasafterwardsclosedbecausethewindblewthroughittoomuchandmadethechurchtoocold。Whileitwasopen，onecouldsitonthechurchstepsandlookdownthroughitontothebottomoftheTicinovalley；andthroughthewindowsonecouldseetheslopesaboutDalpeandCornone。BetweenthetwowindowsthereisapictureofaustereoldS。CarloBorromeowithhishandsjoinedinprayer。

ItwasatRossurathatImadetheacquaintanceofawordwhichI

havesincefoundverylargelyusedthroughoutNorthItaly。Itispronounced"chow"pureandsimple，butiswritten，ifwrittenatall，"ciau，"or"ciao，"the"a"beingkeptverybroad。Ibelievethewordisderivedfrom"schiavo，"aslave，which，becamecorruptedinto"schiao，"and"ciao。"Itisusedwithtwomeanings，bothofwhich，however，arededuciblefromthewordslave。Initsfirstandmorecommonuseitissimplyasalute，eitherongreetingortakingleave，andmeans，"Iamyourveryobedientservant。"

Thus，ifonehasbeentalkingtoasmallchild，itsmotherwilltellittosay"chow"beforeitgoesaway，andwillthennodherheadandsay"chow"herself。Theotheruseisakindofpiousexpletive，intending"Imustendureit，""Iamtheslaveofahigherpower。"ItwasinthissenseIfirsthearditatRossura。

AwomanwaswashingatafountainwhileIwaseatingmylunch。ShesaidshehadlostherdaughterinParisafewweeksearlier。"Shewasabeautifulwoman，"saidthebereavedmother，"but——chow。Shehadgreattalents——chow。IhadhereducatedbythenunsofBellinzona——chow。Herknowledgeofgeographywasconsummate——chow，chow，"&c。Here"chow"means"pazienza，""IhavedoneandsaidallthatIcan，andmustnowbearitasbestImay。"

Itriedtocomforther，butcoulddonothing，tillatlastitoccurredtometosay"chow"too。Ididso，andwasastonishedatthesoothingeffectithaduponher。Howsubtlearethelawsthatgovernconsolation!Isupposetheymustultimatelybeconnectedwithreproduction——theconsolingideabeingakindofsmallcrosswhichRE-GENERATESorRE-CREATESthesufferer。Itisimportant，therefore，thatthenewideaswithwhichtheoldaretobecrossedshoulddifferfromtheselastsufficientlytodiverttheattention，andyetnotsomuchastocauseapainfulshock。

Thereshouldbealittleshock，ortherewillbenovariationinthenewideasthataregenerated，buttheywillresemblethosethatprecededthem，andgriefwillbecontinued；theremustnotbetoogreatashockortherewillbenoillusion——noconfusionandfusionbetweenthenewsetofideasandtheold，andinconsequence，therewillbenoresultatall，or，ifany，anincreaseinmentaldiscord。Weknowverylittle，however，uponthissubject，andarecontinuallyshowntobeatfaultbyfindinganunexpectedlysmallcrossproduceawidediversionofthementalimages，whileinothercasesawideonewillproducehardlyanyresult。Sometimesagain，acrosswhichweshouldhavesaidwasmuchtoowidewillhaveanexcellenteffect。Ididnotanticipate，forexample，thatmysaying"chow"wouldhavedonemuchforthepoorwomanwhohadlostherdaughter；thecrossdidnotseemwideenough；shewasalready，asIthought，saturatedwith"chow。"Icanonlyaccountfortheeffectmyapplicationofitproducedbysupposingthewordtohavederivedsomeelementofstrangenessandnoveltyascomingfromaforeigner——justaslandwhichwillgiveapoorcrop，ifplantedwithsetsfrompotatoesthathavebeengrownforthreeorfouryearsonthissamesoil，willyetyieldexcellentlyifsimilarsetsbebroughtfromtwentymilesoff。Forthepotato，sofarasIhavestudiedit，isagood-tempered，frivolousplant，easilyamusedandeasilybored，andone，moreover，whichifbored，yawnshorribly。

AsanexampleofacrossprovingsatisfactorywhichIhadexpectedwouldbetoowide，Iwouldquotethefollowing，whichcameundermynoticewhenIwasinAmerica。Ayoungmancalleduponmeinafloodoftearsoverthelossofhisgrandmother，ofwhosedeathattheageofninety-threehehadjustheard。Icoulddonothingwithhim；Itriedalltheordinarypanaceaswithouteffect，andwasgivinghimupindespair，whenIthoughtofcrossinghimwiththewell-knownballadofWednesburyCocking。{7}Hebrightenedupinstantly，andleftmeinascheerfulastateashehadbeenbeforeinadespondingone。"Chow"seemstodofortheItalianswhatWednesburyCockingdidformyAmericanfriend；itisakindofsmallspiritualpick-me-up，orcupoftea。

FromRossuraIwentontoTengia，aboutahundredandfiftyfeethigherthanRossura。FromTengiathepathtoCalonico，thenextvillage，isalittlehardtofind，andaboyhadbetterbetakenfortenminutesorsobeyondTengia，Calonicochurchshowswellforsometimebeforeitisactuallyreached。Thepastureshereareveryrichinflowers，thetigerliliesbeingmoreabundantbeforethehayismown，thanperhapsevenatFusioitself。Thewholewalkislovely，andtheGribbiascawaterfall，themostgracefulintheValLeventina，isjustopposite。

HowoftenhaveInotsatabouthereintheshadesketching，andwatchedtheblueuponthemountainswhichTitianwatchedfromunderthechestnutsofCadore。Nosoundexceptthedistantwater，orthecroakofaraven，ortheboomingofthegreatgunsinthatbattlewhichisbeingfoughtoutbetweenmanandnatureontheBiaschinaandtheMontePiottino。ItisalwaysapleasuretometofeelthatIhaveknowntheValLeventinaintimatelybeforethegreatchangeinitwhichtherailwaywilleffect，andthatImayhopetoseeitafterthepresentturmoilisover。Ourdescendantsahundredyearshencewillnotthinkoftheincessantnoiseasthoughofcannonadingwithwhichweweresofamiliar。FromnowherewasitmorestrikingthanfromCalonico，theMontePiottinohavingnosoonerbecomesilentthantheBiaschinawouldopenfire，andsometimesbothwouldbefiringatonce。Posteritymaycaretoknowthatanotherandlessagreeablefeatureofthepresenttimewasthequantityofstonesthatwouldcomeflyingaboutinplaceswhichonewouldhavethoughtwereoutofrange。Allalongtheroad，forexample，betweenGiornicoandLavorgo，therewasincessantblastinggoingon，anditwassurprisingtoseetheheighttowhichstonesweresometimescarried。Thedwellersinhousesneartheblastingwouldcovertheirroofswithboughsandleavestosoftenthefallofthestones。Afewpeoplewerehurt，butmuchlessdamagewasdonethanmighthavebeenexpected。ImaymentionforthebenefitofEnglishreadersthatthetunnelsthroughMontePiottinoandtheBiaschinaaremarvelsofengineeringskill，beingbothofthemspiral；theroaddescribesacompletecircle，anddescendsrapidlyallthewhile，sothatthepointofegressasonegoesfromAirolotowardsFaidoisatamuchlowerlevelthanthatofingress。

Ifanaccidentdoeshappen，theycallitadisgrazia，thusconfirmingthesoundnessofaphilosophywhichIputforwardinanearlierwork。Everymisfortunetheyhold(andquiterightly)tobeadisgracetothepersonwhosuffersit；"Sondisgraziato"istheItalianfor"Ihavebeenunfortunate。"Iwasoncegoingtogiveapennytoapoorwomanbytheroadside，whentwootherwomenstoppedme。"Nonmerita，"theysaid；"Sheisnodeservingobjectforcharity"——thefactbeingthatshewasanidiot。Neverthelesstheywereverykindtoher。

CHAPTERV——Calonico(continued)andGiornicoOurinventionsincreaseingeometricalratio。Theyarelikelivingbeings，eachoneofwhichmaybecomeparentofadozenothers——somegoodandsomene"er-do-weels；buttheydifferfromanimalsandvegetablesinasmuchastheynotonlyincreaseinageometricalratio，buttheperiodoftheirgestationdecreasesingeometricalratioalso。TakethismatterofAlpineroadsforexample。ForhowmanymillionsofyearswastherenoapproachtoaroadovertheSt。

Gothard，savetheuntutoredwatercoursesoftheTicinoandtheReuss，andthetrackofthebouquetinorthechamois？Forhowmanymoreagesafterthiswastherenotamereshepherd"sorhuntsman"spathbytheriverside——withoutsomuchasalogthrownoversoastoformarudebridge？Noonewouldprobablyhaveeverthoughtofmakingabridgeoutofhisownunaidedimagination，morethananymonkeythatweknowofhasdoneso。Butanavalancheorafloodoncesweptapineintopositionandleftitthere；onthisagenius，whowasdoubtlessthoughttobedoingsomethingveryinfamous，venturedtomakeuseofit。Anothertimeapinewasfoundnearlyacrossthestream，butnotquite，andnotquite，again，intheplacewhereitwaswanted。Asecondgenius，tothehorrorofhisfellow-tribesmen——whodeclaredthatthistimetheworldreallywouldcometoanend——shiftedthepineafewfeetsoastobringitacrossthestreamandintotheplacewhereitwaswanted。Thismanwastheinventorofbridges——hisfamilyrepudiatedhim，andhecametoabadend。Fromthistocuttingdownthepineandbringingitfromsomedistanceisaneasystep。

Toavoiddetail，letuscometotheoldRomanhorseroadovertheAlps。Thetimebetweentheshepherd"spathandtheRomanroadisprobablyshortincomparisonwiththatbetweenthemerechamoistrackandthefirstthingthatcanbecalledapathofmen。FromtheRomanwegoontothemediaevalroadwithmorefrequentstonebridges，andfromthemediaevaltotheNapoleoniccarriageroad。

Thecloseofthelastcenturyandthefirstquarterofthispresentonewasthegreateraforthemakingofcarriageroads。Fiftyyearshavehardlypassedandherewearealreadyintheageoftunnellingandrailroads。Thefirstperiod，fromthechamoistracktothefootroad，wasoneofmillionsofyears；thesecond，fromthefirstfootroadtotheRomanmilitaryway，wasoneofmanythousands；thethird，fromtheRomantothemediaeval，wasperhapsathousand；fromthemediaevaltotheNapoleonic，fivehundred；

fromtheNapoleonictotherailroad，fifty。Whatwillcomenextweknownot，butitshouldcomewithintwentyyears，andwillprobablyhavesomethingtodowithelectricity。

Itfollowsbyaneasyprocessofreasoningthat，afteranothercoupleofhundredyearsorso，greatsweepingchangesshouldbemadeseveraltimesinanhour，orindeedinasecond，orfractionofasecond，tilltheypassunnoticedastherevolutionsweundergointheembryonicstages，orarefeltsimplyasvibrations。Thiswouldundoubtedlybethecasebutfortheexistenceofafrictionwhichinterferesbetweentheoryandpractice。Thisfrictioniscausedpartlybythedisturbanceofvestedinterestswhicheveryinventioninvolves，andwhichwillbefoundintolerablewhenmenbecomemillionairesandpaupersalternatelyonceafortnight——

livingoneweekinapalaceandthenextinaworkhouse，andhavingperpetuallytobesoldup，andthentobuyanewhouseandrefurnish，&c——sothatartificialmeansforstoppinginventionswillbeadopted；andpartlybythefactthatthoughallinventionsbreedingeometricalratio，yetsomemultiplymorerapidlythanothers，andthebackwardnessofoneartwillimpedetheforwardnessofanother。Atanyrate，sofarasIcansee，thepresentisabouttheonlycomfortabletimeforamantolivein，thateithereverhasbeenoreverwillbe。Thepastwastooslow，andthefuturewillbemuchtoofast。

AnotherthingwhichwedonotbearinmindwhenthinkingoftheAlpsistheirnarrowness，andthesmallextentofgroundtheyreallycover。FromGoschenen，forexample，toAiroloseemsaverylongdistance。OnemustgouptotheDevil"sBridge，andthentoAndermatt。FromherebyHospenthaltothetopofthepassseemsalongway，andagainitisalongwaydowntoAirolo；butallthiswouldeasilygoontothegroundbetweenKensingtonandStratford。

FromGoschenentoAndermattisaboutasfarasfromHollandHousetoHydeParkCorner。FromAndermatttoHospenthalismuchthesamedistanceasfromHydeParkCornertotheOxfordStreetendofTottenhamCourtRoad。FromHospenthaltothehospiceonthetopofthepassisaboutequaltothespacebetweenTottenhamCourtRoadandBow；andfromBowyoumustgodownthreethousandfeetofzig-

zagsintoStratford，forAirolo。Ihavemadethedeviationfromthestraightlineaboutthesameinonecaseasintheother；ineach，thedirectdistanceisnineandahalfmiles。ThewholedistancefromFluelen，ontheLakeofLucerne，toBiasca，whichisalmostonthesamelevelwiththeLagoMaggiore，isonlyfortymiles，andcouldbeallgotinbetweenLondonandLewes，whilefromLucernetoLocarno，actuallyontheLagoMaggioreitself，wouldgo，withagoodlargemargintospare，betweenLondonandDover。Wecanhardlyfancy，however，peoplegoingbackwardsandforwardstobusinessdailybetweenFluelenandBiasca，assomedoubtlessdobetweenLondonandLewes。

ButhowsmallallEuropeis。Weseemalmostabletotakeitinatasinglecoupd"oeil。FromMontBlancwecanseethemountainsontheParissideofDijonontheonehand，andthoseaboveFlorenceandBolognaontheother。WhataholewouldnotbemadeinEuropeifthisgreateyefulwerescoopedoutofit。

Thefactis(butitissoobviousthatIamashamedtosayanythingaboutit)，scienceisrapidlyreducingspacetothesameunsatisfactorystatethatithasalreadyreducedtime。Takelamb:

wecangetlamballtheyearround。Thisisperpetualspring；butperpetualspringisnospringatall；itisnotaseason；therearenomoreseasons，andbeingnoseasons，thereisnotime。Takerhubarb，again。Rhubarbtothephilosopheristhebeginningofautumn，ifindeed，thephilosophercanseeanythingasthebeginningofanything。Ifanyoneaskswhy，Isupposethephilosopherwouldsaythatrhubarbisthebeginningofthefruitseason，whichisclearlyautumnal，accordingtoourpresentclassification。Fromrhubarbtothegreengooseberrythestepissosmallastorequirenobridging——withone"seyesshut，andplentyofcreamandsugar，theyarealmostindistinguishable——butthegooseberryisquiteanautumnalfruit，andonlyalittleearlierthanapplesandplums，whichlastarealmostwinter；

clearly，therefore，forscientificpurposesrhubarbisautumnal。

Assoonaswecanfindgradations，orasufficientnumberofunitinglinksbetweentwothings，theybecomeunitedormadeonething，andanyclassificationofthemmustbeillusory。

Classificationisonlypossiblewherethereisashockgiventothesensesbyreasonofaperceiveddifference，which，ifitisconsiderable，canbeexpressedinwords。Whentheworldwasyoungerandlessexperienced，peoplewereshockedatwhatappearedgreatdifferencesbetweenlivingforms；butspecies，whetherofanimalsorplants，arenowseentobesounited，eitherinferentiallyorbyactualfindingofthelinks，thatallclassificationisfelttobearbitrary。Theseasonsarelikespecies——theywereatonetimethoughttobeclearlymarked，andcapableofbeingclassifiedwithsomeapproachtosatisfaction。Itisnowseenthattheyblendeitherinthepresentorthepastinsensiblyintooneanother，andcannotbeclassifiedexceptbycuttingGordianknotsinawaywhichnonebutplainsensiblepeoplecantolerate。Strictlyspeaking，thereisonlyoneplace，onetime，oneaction，andoneindividualorthing；ofthisthingorindividualeachoneofusisapart。Itisperplexing，butitisphilosophy；andmodemphilosophylikemodernmusicisnothingifitisnotperplexing。

Asimpleverificationoftheautumnalcharacterofrhubarbmay，atfirstsight，appeartobefoundinCoventGardenMarket，wherewecanactuallyseetherhubarbtowardstheendofOctober。Butthiswayoflookingatthematterarguesafatalineptitudeforthepursuitoftruephilosophy。ItwouldbeamostseriouserrortoregardtherhubarbthatwillappearinCoventGardenMarketnextOctoberasbelongingtotheautumnthensupposedtobecurrent。

Practically，nodoubt，itdoesso，buttheoreticallyitmustbeconsideredasthefirst-fruitsoftheautumn(ifany)ofthefollowingyear，whichbeginsbeforetheprecedingsummer(or，perhaps，morestrictly，theprecedingsummerbutone——andhence，butanynumber)，haswellended。Whetherthis，however，issoorno，therhubarbcanbeseeninCoventGarden，andIamafraiditmustbeadmittedthattothephilosophicallymindedtherelurkswithinitatheoryofevolution，andevenPantheism，assurelyasTheismwaslurkinginBishopBerkeley"starwater。

Toreturn，however，toCalonico。Thechurchisbuiltontheextremeedgeofacliffthathasbeenformedbythebreakingawayofalargefragmentofthemountain。Thisfragmentmaybeseenlyingdownbelowshatteredintocountlesspieces。Thereisafissureinthecliffwhichsuggeststhatatnoverydistantdaysomemorewillfollow，andIamafraidcarrythechurchtoo。Myfavouriteviewofthechurchisfromtheothersideofthesmallvalleywhichseparatesitfromthevillage，(seeprecedingpage)。

Anotherverygoodviewisfromcloseruptothechurch。

ThecuratoofCalonicowasverykindtome。Wehadlongtalkstogether。IcouldseeitpainedhimthatwasnotaCatholic。Hecouldneverquitegetoverthis，buthewasverygoodandtolerant。

HewasanxioustobeassuredthatIwasnotoneofthoseEnglishwhowentaboutdistributingtracts，andtryingtoconvertpeople。

ThisofcoursewasthelastthingIshouldhavewishedtodo；andwhenItoldhimso，heviewedmewithsorrow，buthenceforthwithoutalarm。

AllthetimeIwaswithhimIfelthowmuchIwishedcouldbeaCatholicinCatholiccountries，andaProtestantinProtestantones。Surelytherearesomethingswhich，likepolitics，aretooserioustobetakenquiteseriously。Surtoutpointdezeleisnotthesayingofacynic，buttheconclusionofasensibleman；andthemoredeepourfeelingisaboutanymatter，themoreoccasionhavewetobeonourguardagainstzeleinthisparticularrespect。

Thereisbutonestepfromthe"earnest"tothe"intense。"WhenSt。Paultoldustobeallthingstoallmenheletinthethinendofthewedge，nordidhemarkittosayhowfaritwastobedriven。

IhaveItalianfriendswhomIgreatlyvalue，andwhotellmetheythinkIflirtjustatrifletoomuchwithilpartitonerowhenIaminItaly，fortheyknowthatinthemainIthinkastheydo。

"Thesepeople，"theysay，"makethemselvesveryagreeabletoyou，andshowyoutheirsmoothside；we，whoseemoreofthem，knowtheirroughone。Knuckleundertothem，andtheywillperhapscondescendtopatroniseyou；haveanyindividualityofyourown，andtheyknowneitherscruplenorremorseintheirattemptstogetyououtoftheirway。"Ilprete，"theysay，withasignificantlook，"esempreprete。Forthefutureletushaveprofessorsandmenofscienceinsteadofpriests。"Ismiletomyselfatthislast，andreply，thatIamaforeignercomeamongthemforrecreation，andanxioustokeepclearoftheirinternaldiscords。

Idonotwishtocutmyselfofffromonesideoftheirnationalcharacter——asidewhich，insomerespects，isnolessinterestingthantheonewithwhichIsupposeIamonthewholemoresympathetic。IfIwereanItalian，Ishouldfeelboundtotakeaside；asitis，Iwishtoleaveallquarrellingbehindme，havingasmuchofthatinEnglandassufficestokeepmeingoodhealthandtemper。

InoldtimespeoplegavetheirspiritualandintellectualsoptoNemesis。Evenwhenmostpositive，theyadmittedapercentageofdoubt。Mr。Tennysonhassaidwell，"Therelivesmoredoubt"——I

quotefrommemory——"inhonestfaith，believeme，thaninhalfthe"

systemsofphilosophy，orwordstothateffect。Thevictorhadaslaveathisearduringhistriumph；theslavesduringtheRomanSaturnaliadressedintheirmasters"clothes，satatmeatwiththem，toldthemoftheirfaults，andblackedtheirfacesforthem。

Theymadetheirmasterswaituponthem。Intheagesoffaith，anassdressedinsacerdotalrobeswasgravelyconductedtothecathedralchoiratacertainseason，andmasswassaidbeforehim，andhymnschanteddiscordantly。TheelderD"Israeli，fromwhomI

amquoting，writes:"Onotheroccasions，theyputburntoldshoestofumeinthecensers；ranaboutthechurchleaping，singing，dancing，andplayingatdiceuponthealtar，whileaBOYBISHOPorPOPEOFFOOLSburlesquedthedivineservice；"andlateronhesays:

"Solateas1645，apupilofGassendi，writingtohismasterwhathehimselfwitnessedatAixonthefeastofInnocents，says——"I

haveseeninsomemonasteriesinthisprovinceextravagancessolemnised，whichpaganswouldnothavepractised。Neithertheclergynortheguardiansindeedgotothechoironthisday，butallisgivenuptothelaybrethren，thecabbagecutters，errandboys，cooks，scullions，andgardeners；inaword，allthemenialsfilltheirplacesinthechurch，andinsistthattheyperformtheofficesproperfortheday。Theydressthemselveswithallthesacerdotalornaments，buttorntorags，orweartheminsideout；

theyholdintheirhandsthebooksreversedorsideways，whichtheypretendtoreadwithlargespectacleswithoutglasses，andtowhichtheyfixtherindsofscoopedoranges……；particularlywhiledanglingthecenserstheykeepshakingtheminderision，andlettingtheashesflyabouttheirheadsandfaces，oneagainsttheother。Inthisequipagetheyneithersinghymnsnorpsalmsnormasses，butmumbleacertaingibberishasshrillandsqueakingasaherdofpigswhippedontomarket。Thenonsenseversestheychantaresingularlybarbarous:-

Haecestclaradies，clararumclaradierum，Haecestfestadiesfestarumfestadierum。""{8}

Faithwasfarmoreassuredinthetimeswhenthespiritualsaturnaliawereallowedthannow。Theirreverencewhichwasnotdangerousthen，isnowintolerable。Itisabadsignforaman"speaceinhisownconvictionswhenhecannotstandturningthecanvasofhislifeoccasionallyupsidedown，orreversingitinamirror，aspaintersdowiththeirpicturesthattheymayjudgethebetterconcerningthem。IwouldpersuadeallJews，Mohammedans，Comtists，andfreethinkerstoturnhighAnglicans，orbetterstill，downrightCatholicsforaweekineveryyear，andIwouldsendpeoplelikeMr。GladstonetoattendMr。Bradlaugh"slecturesintheforenoon，andtheGrecianpantomimeintheevening，twoorthreetimeseverywinter。IshouldperhapstellthemthattheGrecianpantomimehasnothingtodowithGreekplays。TheylittleknowhowmuchmorekeenlytheywouldrelishtheirnormalopinionsduringtherestoftheyearforthelittlespiritualoutingwhichIwouldprescribeforthem，which，afterall，isbutanotherphaseofthewisesaying——Surtoutpointdezele。St。Paulattemptedanobviouslyhopelesstask(astheChurchofRomeverywellunderstands)whenhetriedtoputdownseasonarianism。Peoplemustandwillgotochurchtobealittlebetter，tothetheatretobealittlenaughtier，totheRoyalInstitutiontobealittlemorescientific，thantheyareinactuallife。Itisonlybypulsationsofgoodness，naughtiness，andwhateverelseweaffectthatwecangetonatall。Igrantthatwheninhisoffice，amanshouldbeexactandprecise，butourholidaysareourgarden，andtoomuchprecisionhereisamistake。

Surelytruces，withoutevenanarrierepenseeofdifferenceofopinion，betweenthosewhoarecompelledtotakewidelydifferentsidesduringthegreaterpartoftheirlives，mustbeofinfiniteservicetothosewhocanenteronthem。Therearefewmerelyspiritualpleasurescomparabletothatderivedfromthetemporarylayingdownofaquarrel，eventhoughwemayknowthatitmustberenewedshortly。ItisagreatgrieftomethatthereisnoplacewhereIcangoamongMr。Darwin，ProfessorsHuxley，Tyndall，andRayLankester，MissBuckley，Mr。Romanes，Mr。Allen，andotherswhomIcannotcalltomindatthismoment，asIcangoamongtheItalianpriests。Irememberinonemonastery(butthiswasnotintheCantonTicino)thenovicetaughtmehowtomakesacramentalwafers，andIplayedhimHandelontheorganaswellasIcould。I

toldhimthatHandelwasaCatholic；hesaidhecouldtellthatbyhismusicatonce。Thereisnochanceofgettingamongourscientistsinthisway。

SomefriendssayIwastellingaliewhenItoldthenoviceHandelwasaCatholic，andoughtnottohavedoneso。Imakeitaruletoswallowafewgnatsaday，lestIshouldcometostrainatthem，andsoboltcamels；butthewholequestionoflyingisdifficult。

WhatIS"lying"？Turningformoralguidancetomycousinstheloweranimals，whoseunsophisticatednatureproclaimswhatGodhastaughtthemwithadirectnesswemaysometimesstudy，Ifindtheploverlyingwhensheluresusfromheryoungonesunderthefictionofabrokenwing。IsGodangry，thinkyou，withthisprettydeviationfromtheletterofstrictaccuracy？orwasitnotHewhowhisperedtohertotellthefalsehood——totellitwithacircumstance，withoutconscientiousscruple，notonceonly，buttomakeapracticeofit，soastobeaplausible，habitual，andprofessionalliarforsomesixweeksorsointheyear？Iimagineso。WhenIwasyoungIusedtoreadingoodbooksthatitwasGodwhotaughtthebirdtomakehernest，andifsoHeprobablytaughteachspeciestheotherdomesticarrangementsbestsuitedtoit。Ordidthenest-buildinginformationcomefromGod，andwasthereaneviloneamongthebirdsalsowhotaughtthematanyratetosteerclearofpriggishness？

Thinkofthespideragain——anuglycreature，butIsupposeGodlikesit。Whatameanandodiouslieisthatwebwhichnaturalistsextolassuchamarvelofingenuity!

OnceonasummerafternooninafarcountryImetoneofthoseorchidswhomakeittheirbusinesstoimitateaflywiththeirpetals。Thislietheydisposesocunninglythatrealflies，thinkingthehoneyisbeingalreadyplundered，passthemwithoutmolestingthem。Watchingintentlyandkeepingverystill，methoughtIheardthisorchidspeakingtotheoffspringwhichshefeltwithinher，thoughIsawthemnot。"Mychildren，"sheexclaimed，"Imustsoonleaveyou；thinkuponthefly，mylovedones，forthisistruth；clingtothisgreatthoughtinyourpassagethroughlife，foritistheonethingneedful；oncelosesightofitandyouarelost!"Overandoveragainshesangthisburdeninasmallstillvoice，andsoIlefther。ThenstraightwayIcameuponsomebutterflieswhoseprofessionitwastopretendtobelieveinallmannerofvitaltruthswhichintheirinnerpracticetheyrejected；thus，assertingthemselvestobecertainotherandhatefulbutterflieswhichnobirdwilleatbyreasonoftheirabominablesmell，thesecunningonesconcealtheirownsweetness，andlivelonginthelandandseegooddays。No:lyingissodeeplyrootedinnaturethatwemayexpelitwithafork，andyetitwillalwayscomebackagain:itislikethepoor，wemusthaveitalwayswithus；wemustalleatapeckofmoraldirtbeforewedie。

Alldependsuponwhoitisthatislying。Onemanmaystealahorsewhenanothermaynotlookoverahedge。Thegoodmanwhotellsnolieswittinglytohimselfandisneverunkindly，maylieandlieandliewheneverhechoosestootherpeople，andhewillnotbefalsetoanyman:hisliesbecometruthsastheypassintothehearers"ear。Ifamandeceiveshimselfandisunkind，thetruthisnotinhim，itturnstofalsehoodwhileyetinhismouth，likethequailsintheWildernessofSinai。Howthisissoorwhy，Iknownot，butthattheLordhathmercyonwhomHewillhavemercyandwhomHewillethHehardeneth。

MyItalianfriendsaredoubtlessinthemainrightaboutthepriests，buttherearemanyexceptions，astheythemselvesgladlyadmit。FormyownpartIhavefoundthecuratointhesmallsubalpinevillagesofNorthItalytobemoreoftenthannotakindlyexcellentmantowhomIamattractedbysympathiesdeeperthananymeresuperficialdifferencesofopinioncancounteract。

Withmonks，however，asageneralruleIamlessabletogeton:

nevertheless，Ihavereceivedmuchcourtesyatthehandsofsome。

Myyoungfriendthenovicewasdelightful——onlyitwassosadtothinkofthefuturethatisbeforehim。HewantedtoknowallaboutEngland，andwhenItoldhimitwasanisland，claspedhishandsandsaid，"OhcheProvvidenza!"Hetoldmehowtheotheryoungmenofhisownageplaguedhimashetrudgedhisroundshighupamongthemostdistanthamletsbeggingalmsforthepoor。"Beagoodfellow，"theywouldsaytohim，"dropallthisnonsenseandcomebacktous，andwewillneverplagueyouagain。"Thenhewouldturnuponthemandputtheirwordsfromhim。Ofcoursemysympathieswerewiththeotheryoungmenratherthanwithhim，butitwasimpossiblenottobesorryforthemannerinwhichhehadbeenhumbuggedfromthedayofhisbirth，tillhewasnowincapableofseeingthingsfromanyotherstandpointthanthatofauthority。

WhathesaidtomeaboutknowingthatHandelwasaCatholicbyhismusic，putmeinmindofwhatanothergoodCatholiconcesaidtomeaboutapicture。HewasaFrenchmanandverynice，butadevot，andanxioustoconvertme。Hepaidafewdays"visittoLondon，soIshowedhimtheNationalGallery。WhilethereIpointedouttohimSebastiandelPiombo"spictureoftheraisingofLazarusasoneofthesupposedmasterpiecesofourcollection。Hehadtheproperorthodoxfitofadmirationoverit，andthenwewentthroughtheotherrooms。AfterawhilewefoundourselvesbeforeWest"spictureof"Christhealingthesick。"MyFrenchfrienddidnot，I

suppose，examineitverycarefully，atanyratehebelievedhewasagainbeforetheraisingofLazarusbySebastiandelPiombo；hepausedbeforeitandhadhisfitofadmirationoveragain:thenturningtomehesaid，"Ah!youwouldunderstandthispicturebetterifyouwereaCatholic。"Ididnottellhimofthemistakehehadmade，butIthoughtevenaProtestantafteracertainamountofexperiencewouldlearntoseesomedifferencebetweenBenjaminWestandSebastiandelPiombo。

FromCalonicoIwentdownintothemainroadandwalkedtoGiornico，takingtherightbankoftheriverfromthebridgeatthetopoftheBiaschina。Notasodoftherailwaywasasyetturned。

AtGiornicoIvisitedthegrandoldchurchofS。Nicolao，which，thoughalaterfoundationthanthechurchatMairengo，retainsitsoriginalcondition，andappears，therefore，tobemuchtheolderofthetwo。Thestonesareverymassive，andthecoursesarehereandthereirregularasinCyclopeanwalls；theendwallisnotbondedintothesidewallsbutsimplybuiltbetweenthem；themaindoorisveryfine，andthereisasidedooralsoverygood。Therearetwoaltarsoneabovetheother，asinthechurchesofS。AbbondioandS。CristoforoatComo，butIcouldnotmaketheloweraltarintelligibleinmysketch，andindeedcouldhardlyseeit，sowasobligedtoleaveitout。Theremainsofsomeveryearlyfrescoescanbeseen，butIdidnotthinkthemremarkable。Altogether，however，thechurchisonewhichnooneshouldmissseeingwhotakesaninterestinearlyarchitecture。

Whilepaintingthestudyfromwhichthefollowingsketchistaken，Iwasstruckwiththewonderfullyvividgreenwhichthewhitewashedvaultofthechancelandthearchdividingthechancelfromthebodyofthechurchtookbywayofreflectionfromthegrassandtreesoutside。Itisnoteasyatfirsttoseehowthegreenmanagestofinditswayinsidethechurch，butthegrassseemstogetineverywhere。Ihadalreadyoftenseengreenreflectedfrombrilliantpasturageontotheshadowundertheeavesofwhitewashedhouses，butIneversawitsuffuseawholeinteriorasitdoesonafinesummer"sdayatGiornico。IdonotremembertohaveseenthiseffectinEngland。

Lookingupagainagainstthemountainthroughtheopendoorofthechurchwhenthesunwasinacertainposition，Icouldseeaninfinityofinsectlifeswarmingthroughouttheair。Noonecouldhavesuspecteditsexistence，tillthesun"sraysfellonthewingsofthesesmallcreaturesataproperangle；onthistheybecamerevealedagainstthedarknessofthemountainbehindthem。Theswallowsthatwereflyingamongthemcannothavetohuntthem，theyneedonlyflywiththeirmouthswideopenandtheymustrunagainstasmanyaswillbegoodforthem。Isawthisincrediblymultitudinousswarmextendingtoagreatheight，andamsatisfiedthatitwasnomorethanwhatisalwayspresentduringthesummermonths，thoughitisonlyvisibleincertainlights。TotheseminutecreaturesthespacebetweenthemountainsonthetwosidesoftheTicinovalleymustbeasgreatasthatbetweenEnglandandAmericatoacodfish。Many，doubtless，liveinthemid-air，andnevertouchthebottomorsidesofthevalley，exceptatbirthanddeath，ifthen。Nodoubtsomeatmosphericeffectsofhazeonasummer"safternoonareduetonothingbuttheseinsects。What，again，dothesmallerofthemliveupon？Ongerms，whichtothemarecomfortablemouthfuls，thoughtousinvisibleevenwithamicroscope？

IfindnothingmoreinmynotesaboutGiornicoexceptthatthepeopleareveryhandsome，and，asIthought，ofaRomantype。TheplacewasaRomanmilitarystation，butitdoesnotfollowthatthesoldierswereRomans；nevertheless，thereisastrainofbullet-

headedbloodintheplace。AlsoIrememberbeingtoldin1869thattwobearshadbeenkilledinthemountainsaboveGiornicotheprecedingyear。AtGiornicothevinebeginstogrowlustily，andwineismade。Thevinesaretrellised，andlookingdownuponthemonewouldthinkonecouldwalkuponthemasuponasolidsurface，socloselyandluxuriantlydotheygrow。

FromGiornicoIbegantoturnmystepshomewardincompanywithanengineerwhowasalsoabouttowalkbacktoFaido，butweresolvedtotakeChironicoonourway，andkeptthereforetotherightbankoftheriver。AfteraboutthreeorfourkilometresfromGiornicowereachedChironico，whichiswellplaceduponafilled-uplakeandenviedasapaesericco，butisnotsocaptivatingassomeothers。HenceweascendedtillatlastwereachedGribbio(3960

ft。)，acollectionofchaletsinhabitedonlyforashorttimeintheyear，butaniceplaceinsummer，richingentiansandsulphur-

colouredanemones。FromGribbiothereisapathtoDalpe，offeringnodifficultywhateverandperfectinitsway。Onthisoccasion，however，wewentstraightbacktoFaidobyarathershorterwaythantheordinarypath，andthiscertainlywasalittledifficult，orasmycompanioncalledit，"untantinodifficoltoso，"inoneortwoplaces；Iatleastdidnotquitelikethem。

AnotherdayIwenttoLavorgo，belowCalonico，andthenceuptoAnzonico。ThechurchandchurchyardatAnzonicoareverygood；

fromAnzonicothereisapathtoCavagnago——whichisalsofullofgoodbitsforsketching——andSobrio。ThehighestvillagesintheimmediateneighbourhoodofFaidoareCampelloandMolare；theycanbeseenfromthemarket-placeofthetown，andarewellworththetroubleofaclimb。

CHAPTERVI——PioraAnexcursionwhichmaybeverywellmadefromFaidoistotheValPiora，whichIhavealreadymorethanoncementioned。Thereisalargehotelherewhichhasbeenopenedsomeyears，buthasnothithertoprovedthesuccesswhichitwashopeditwouldbe。Ihavestayedtheretwoorthreetimesandfounditverycomfortable；

doubtless，nowthatSignorLombardioftheHotelProsahastakenit，itwillbecomeamorepopularplaceofresort。

ItookatrapfromFaidotoAmbri，andthencewalkedovertoQuinto；herethepathbeginstoascend，andafteranhourRoncoisreached。ThereisahouseatRoncowhererefreshmentsandexcellentFaidobeercanbehad。TheoldladywhokeepsthehousewouldmakeaperfectFate；Isawhersittingatherwindowspinning，andlookingdownovertheTicinovalleyasthoughitweretheworldandshewerespinningitsdestiny。Shehadasomewhatsternexpression，thinlips，iron-greyeyes，andanaquilinenose；

herscantylocksstraggledfromunderthehandkerchiefwhichsheworeroundherhead。Heremploymentandthewistfulfar-awaylookshecastupontheexpansebelowmadeaveryfineensemble。"Shewouldhaveafforded，"asSirWalterScottsays，"astudyforaRembrandt，hadthatcelebratedpainterexistedattheperiod，"{9}

butshemusthavebeenasmart-lookinghandsomegirlonce。

Shebrightenedupinconversation。ItalkedaboutPiora，whichI

alreadyknew，andtheLagoTom，thehighestofthethreelakes。

ShesaidsheknewtheLagoTom。Isaidlaughingly，"Oh，Ihavenodoubtyoudo。We"vehadmanyagooddayattheLagoTom，Iknow。"

Shelookeddownatonce。

Inspiteofhernearlyeightyyearsshewasactiveasawomanofforty，andaltogethershewasaverygrandoldlady。Herhouseisscrupulouslyclean。WhileIwatchedherspinning，Ithoughtofwhatmustsooftenoccurtosummervisitors。Imeanwhatsortofalook-outtheoldwomanmusthaveinwinter，whenthewindroarsandwhistles，andthesnowdrivesdownthevalleywithafuryofwhichweinEnglandcanhavelittleconception。Whataplacetoseeasnowstormfrom!andwhataplacefromwhichtosurveythelandscapenextmorningafterthestormisoverandtheairiscalmandbrilliant。Therearesuchmornings:Isawoneonce，butIwasatthebottomofthevalleyandnothighup，asatRonco。Roncowouldtakealittlesuneveninmidwinter，butatthebottomofthevalleythereisnosunforweeksandweekstogether；allisindeepshadowbelow，thoughtheupperhillsidesmaybeseentohavethesunuponthem。Iwalkedonceonafrostywinter"smorningfromAirolotoGiornico，andcancalltomindnothinginitswaymorebeautiful:everythingwaslockedinfrost——therewasnotawaterwheelbutwassheetedandcoatedwithice:theroadwashardasgranite——allwasquietandseenasthroughadarkbutincrediblytransparentmedium。NearPiottaImetthewholevillagedraggingalargetree；thereweremanymenandwomendraggingatit，buttheyhadtopullhardandtheyweresilent；asIpassedthemIthoughtwhatcomely，well-begottenpeopletheywere。Then，lookingup，therewasasky，cloudlessandofthedeepestblue，againstwhichthesnow-cladmountainsstoodoutsplendidly。Noonewillregretawalkinthesevalleysduringthedepthofwinter。ButIshouldhavelikedtohavelookeddownfromthesunintothesunlessness，astheoldFatewomanatRoncocandowhenshesitsinwinteratherwindow；oragain，Ishouldliketoseehowthingswouldlookfromthissamewindowonaleadenmorninginmidwinteraftersnowhasfallenheavilyandtheskyismurkyandmuchdarkerthantheearth。Whenthestormisatitsheight，thesnowmustsearchandsearchandsearcheventhroughthedoublewindowswithwhichthehousesareprotected。Itmustrestupontheframesofthepicturesofsaints，andofthesister"s"grab，"andofthelasthoursofCountUgolino，whichadornthewallsoftheparlour。NowonderthereisaS。MariadellaNeve——a"St。MaryoftheSnow"；butIdowonderthatshehasnotbeenpainted。

FromRoncothepathkeepslevelandthendescendsalittlesoastocrossthestreamthatcomesdownfromPiora。ThisisnearthevillageofAltanca，thechurchofwhichlooksremarkablywellfromhere。Thenthereisanhourandahalf"srapidascent，andatlastallonasuddenonefindsone"sselfontheLagoRitom，closetothehotel。

Thelakeisaboutamile，oramileandahalf，long，andhalfamilebroad。Itis6000feetabovethesea，verydeepatthelowerend，anddoesnotfreezewherethestreamissuesfromit，sothatthemagnificenttroutinthe，lakecangetairandlivethroughthewinter。Inmanyotherlakes，asforexampletheLagodiTremorgio，theycannotdothis，andhenceperish，thoughthelakeshavebeenrepeatedlystocked。ThetroutintheLagoRitomaresaidtobethefinestintheworld，andcertainlyIknownonesofinemyself。

Theygrowtobeaslargeasmoderate-sizedsalmon，andhaveadeepredflesh，veryfirmandfullofflavour。IhadtwocutletsoffoneforbreakfastandshouldhavesaidtheyweresalmonunlessI

hadknownotherwise。Inwinter，whenthelakeisfrozenover，thepeoplebringtheirhayfromthefartherLakeofCadagnoinsledgesacrosstheLakeRitom。Here，again，wintermustbeworthseeing，butonaroughsnowydayPioramustbeanawfulplace。Thereareafewstuntedpinesnearthehotel，butthehillsidesareforthemostpartbareandgreen。Piorainfactisafinebreezyopenuplandvalleyofsingularbeauty，andwithasweetatmosphereofcowaboutit；itisrichinrhododendrons，andallmannerofAlpineflowers，justatriflebleak，butasbracingastheEngadineitself。

ThefirstnightIwaseverinPioratherewasabrilliantmoon，andtheunruffledsurfaceofthelaketookthereflectionofthemountains。Icouldseethecattleamileoff，andhearthetinklingoftheirbellswhichdancedmultitudinouslybeforetheearasfirefliescomeandgobeforetheeyes；forallthroughafinesummer"snightthecattlewillfeedasthoughitwereday。A

littleabovethelakeIcameuponamaninacavebeforeafurnace，burninglime，andhesatlookingintothefirewithhisbacktothemoonlight。Hewasaquietmoodyman，andIamafraidIboredhim，forIcouldgethardlyanythingoutofhimbut"Ohaltro"——politebutnotcommunicative。SoafterawhileIlefthimwithhisfaceburnishedaswithgoldfromthefire，andhisbacksilverwiththemoonbeams；behindhimwerethepasturesandthereflectionsinthelakeandthemountains；andthedistantcowbellswereringing。

ThenIwanderedontillIcametothechapelofS。Carlo；andinafewminutesfoundmyselfontheLagodiCadagno。HereIheardthattherewerepeople，andthepeoplewerenotsomuchasleepasthesimplepeasantryoftheseuplandvalleysareexpectedtobebynineo"clockintheevening。FornowwasthetimewhentheyhadmovedupfromRonco，Altanca，andothervillagesinsomenumberstocutthehay，andwerelivingforafortnightorthreeweeksinthechaletsupontheLagodiCadagno。AsIhavesaid，thereisachapel，butIdoubtwhetheritisattendedduringthisseasonwiththeregularitywithwhichtheparishchurchesofRonco，Altanca，&c。，areattendedduringtherestoftheyear。Theyoungpeople，I

amsure，liketheseannualvisitstothehighplaces，andwillbehardlyweanedfromthem。Happilythehaywillbealwaysthere，andwillhavetobecutbysomeone，andtheoldpeoplewillsendtheyoungones。

AsIwasthinkingofthesethings，Ifoundmyselfgoingoffintoadoze，andthoughttheburnishedmanfromthefurnacecameupandsatbesideme，andlaidhishanduponmyshoulder。ThenIsawthegreenslopesthatriseallroundthelakeweremuchhigherthanI

hadthought；theywentupthousandsoffeet，andtherewerepineforestsuponthem，whiletwolargeglacierscamedowninstreamsthatendedinaprecipiceofice，fallingsheerintothelake。Theedgesofthemountainsagainsttheskywereruggedandfullofclefts，throughwhichIsawthickcloudsofdustbeingblownbythewindasthoughfromtheothersideofthemountains。

AndasIlooked，Isawthatthiswasnotdust，butpeoplecomingincrowdsfromtheotherside，butsosmallastobevisibleatfirstonlyasdust。Andthepeoplebecamemusicians，andthemountainousamphitheatreahugeorchestra，andtheglaciersweretwonoblearmiesofwomen-singersinwhiterobes，rangedtierabovetierbehindeachother，andthepinesbecameorchestralplayers，whilethethickdust-likecloudofchorus-singerskeptpouringinthroughthecleftsintheprecipicesininconceivablenumbers。WhenI

turnedmytelescopeuponthemIsawtheywerecrowdeduptotheextremeedgeofthemountains，sothatIcouldseeunderneaththesolesoftheirbootsastheirlegsdangledintheair。Inthemidstofall，aprecipicethatrosefromoutoftheglaciersshapeditselfsuddenlyintoanorgan，andtherewasonewhosefaceIwellknewsittingatthekeyboard，smilingandpluminghimselflikeabirdashethunderedforthagiantfuguebywayofoverture。I

heardthegreatpedalnotesinthebassstalkmajesticallyupanddown，liketheraysoftheAurorathatgoaboutuponthefaceoftheheavensoffthecoastofLabrador。Thenpresentlythepeopleroseandsangthechorus"Venuslaughingfromtheskies；"buterethesoundhadwelldiedaway，Iawoke，andallwaschanged；alightfleecycloudhadfilledthewholebasin，butIstillthoughtI

heardasoundofmusic，andascampering-offofgreatcrowdsfromthepartwheretheprecipicesshouldbe。Themusicwentthus:-

{10}

[Atthispointinthebookamusicscoreisgiven]

Byandbythecantering，gallopingmovementbecameatrottingone，thus:-

[Atthispointinthebookamusicscoreisgiven]

AfterthatIheardnomorebutalittlesingingfromthechalets，andturnedhomewards。WhenIgottothechapelofS。Carlo，Iwasinthemoonlightagain，andwhennearthehotel，Ipassedthemanatthemouthofthefurnacewiththemoonstillgleaminguponhisback，andthefireuponhisface，andhewasverygraveandquiet。

NextmorningIwentalongthelaketillIcametoagood-sizedstreamletonthenorthside。Ifthisisfollowedforhalf-an-hourorso——andthewalkisaverygoodone——LakeTomisreached，about7500feetabovethesea。Thelakeisnotlarge，andtherearenotsomanychaletsasatCadagno；stilltherearesome。TheviewofthemountaintopsontheothersidetheTicinovalley，asseenfromacrossthelake，isveryfine。Itriedtosketch，butwasfairlydrivenbackbyacloudofblackgnats。Theridgesimmediatelyatthebackofthelake，andnogreatheightaboveit，arethemaindividinglineofthewatershed；soarethosethatrisefromtheLagodiCadagno；infact，about600feetabovethislakeisthetopofapasswhichgoesthroughthePianodeiPorci，andleadsdowntoS。MariaMaggiore，ontheGermansideoftheLukmanier。IdonotknowtheshortpiecebetweentheLagodiCadagnoandS。Maria，butitissuretobegood。ItisapitythereisnoplaceatS。Mariawhereonecanputupforanightortwo。Thereisasmallinnthere，butitdidnotlooktempting。

BeforeleavingtheValLeventina，IwouldcallattentiontothebeautifuloldparishchurchatBiasca，wherethereisnowanexcellentinn，theHotelBiasca。ThischurchisnotsooldastheoneatGiornico，butitisagoodthoughplainexampleofearlyLombardarchitecture。

CHAPTERVII——S。MicheleandtheMontePirchirianoSometimeafterthetravellerfromParistoTurinhaspassedthroughtheMontCenistunnel，andshortlybeforehearrivesatBussolenostation，thelineturnseastward，andaviewisobtainedofthevalleyoftheDora，withthehillsbeyondTurin，andtheSuperga，inthedistance。Ontheright-handsideofthevalleyandabouthalf-waybetweenSusaandTurintheeyeisstruckbyanabruptly-descendingmountainwithalargebuildinglikeacastleuponthetopofit，andtheneareritisapproachedthemoreimposingdoesitprovetobe。Presentlythemountainisseenmoreedgeways，andtheshapechanges。Inhalf-an-hourorsofromthispoint，S。Ambrogioisreached，onceathrivingtown，wherecarriagesusedtobreakthejourneybetweenTurinandSusa，butleftstrandedsincetheopeningoftherailway。HereweareattheveryfootoftheMontePirchiriano，forsothemountainiscalled，andcanseethefrontofthebuilding——whichisnoneotherthanthefamoussanctuaryofS。Michele，commonlycalled"dellaChiusa，"

fromthewallbuiltherebyDesiderius，kingoftheLombards，toprotecthiskingdomfromCharlemagne。

Thehistoryofthesanctuaryisbrieflyasfollows:-

Atthecloseofthetenthcentury，whenOthoIIIwasEmperorofGermany，acertainHughdeMontboissier，anobleofAuvergne，commonlycalled"HughtheUnsewn"(losdruscito)，wascommandedbythePopetofoundamonasteryinexpiationofsomegraveoffence。

HechoseforhissitethesummitoftheMontePirchirianointhevalleyofSusa，beingattractedpartlybythefameofachurchalreadybuilttherebyarecluseofRavenna，GiovanniVincenzobyname，andpartlybythestrikingnatureofthesituation。HughdeMontboissierwhenreturningfromRometoFrancewithIsengardehiswife，would，asamatterofcourse，passthroughthevalleyofSusa。Thetwo——perhapswhenstoppingtodineatS。Ambrogio——wouldlookupandobservethechurchfoundedbyGiovanniVincenzo:theyhadgottobuildamonasterysomewhere；itwouldverylikely，therefore，occurtothemthattheycouldnotperpetuatetheirnamesbetterthanbychoosingthissite，whichwasonamuchtravelledroad，andonwhichafinebuildingwouldshowtoadvantage。Ifmyviewiscorrect，wehavehereanillustrationofafactwhichiscontinuallyobservable——namely，thatallthingswhichcometomuch，whethertheybebooks，buildings，pictures，music，orlivingbeings，aresuggestedbyothersoftheirownkind。Itis；alwaysthemostsuccessful，likeHandelandShakespeare，whoowemosttotheirforerunners，inspiteofthemodificationswithwhichtheirworksdescend。

GiovanniVincenzohadbuilthischurchabouttheyear987。ItismaintainedbysomethathehadbeenBishopofRavenna，butClarettagivessufficientreasonforthinkingotherwise。Inthe"CronacaClusina"itissaidthathehadforsomeyearspreviouslylivedasarecluseontheMonteCaprasio，tothenorthofthepresentMontePirchiriano；butthatonenighthehadavision，inwhichhesawthesummitofMontePirchirianoenvelopedinheaven-descendedflames，andonthisfoundedachurchthere，anddedicatedittoSt。

Michael。ThisistheoriginofthenamePirchiriano，whichmeans[Greektext]，ortheLord"sfire。

Thefameoftheheavenlyflamesandthepietyofpilgrimsbroughtinenoughmoneytocompletethebuilding——which，tojudgefromtheremainsofitembodiedinthelaterwork，musthavebeensmall，butstillachurch，andmorethanamerechapelororatory。Itwas，asIhavealreadysuggested，probablyimposingenoughtofiretheimaginationofHughdeMontboissier，andmakehimfeelthecapabilitiesofthesituation，whichamereordinarywaysidechapelmightperhapshavefailedtodo。Havingbuilthischurch，GiovanniVincenzoreturnedtohissolitudeonthetopofMonteCaprasio，andthenceforthwentbackwardsandforwardsfromoneplaceofabodetotheother。

AvogadroisamongthosewhomakeGiovanniBishop，orratherArchbishop，ofRavenna，andgivesthefollowingaccountofthecircumstanceswhichledtohisresigninghisdioceseandgoingtoliveatthetopoftheinhospitableMonteCaprasio。ItseemstherehadbeenaconfirmationatRavenna，duringwhichhehadaccidentallyforgottentoconfirmthechildofacertainwidow。