第11章
Thepalaceisbuiltinasplendidstyle，butisunfortunatelyquiteuseless，asthecourthasbeautifulsummer-palacesintheneighbourhoodofPotsdam，andspendsthewinterinBerlin。
Thecastlesquareisnotverygood；itisneitherlargenorregular，andnotevenlevel。Onitstandsthelargechurch，whichisnotyetcompleted，butpromisestobeafinestructure。Thetownistolerablylarge，andhasmanyfinehouses。Thestreets，especiallytheNaunerStreet，arewideandlong，butbadlypaved；thestonesarelaidwiththepointedsideupwards，andforfoot-passengersthereisastonepavementtwofeetbroadononesideofthestreetonly。ThepromenadeofthetownspeopleiscalledAmKanal(besidethecanal)，andisafinesquare，throughwhichthecanalflows，andisornamentedwithtrees。
Oftheroyalpleasure-palacesIvisitedthatofSansSoucifirst。
Itissurroundedbyaprettypark，andliesonahill，whichisdividedintosixterraces。Largeconservatoriesstandoneachsideofthese；andinfrontofthemarelongalleysoforangeandlemon-
trees。
Thepalacehasonlyagroundfloor，andissurroundedbyarbours，trees，andvines，sothatitisalmostconcealedfromview。Icouldnotinspecttheinterior，astheroyalfamilywaslivingthere。
Aside-pathleadsfromheretotheRuinenberg，onwhichtheruinsofalargerandasmallertemple，raisedbythehandofart，aretastefullydisposed。Thetopofthehillistakenupbyareservoirofwater。FromthispointonecanseethebackofthepalaceofSansSouci，andtheso-callednewpalace，separatedfromtheformerbyasmallpark，anddistantonlyaboutaquarterofanhour。
Thenewpalace，builtbyFredericktheGreat，isassplendidasonecanimagine。Itformsalengthenedsquare，witharabesquesandflatcolumns，andhasaflatroof，whichissurroundedbyastonebalustrade，andornamentedbystatues。
Theapartmentsarehighandlarge，andsplendidlypainted，tapestried，andfurnished。Oil-paintings，manyofthemverygood，coverthewalls。Onemightfillavolumewiththedescriptionofallthewondersofthisplace，whichis，however，notinhabited。
Behindthepalace，andseparatedfromitbyalargecourt，aretwobeautifullittlepalaces，connectedbyacrescent-shapedhallofpillars；broadstonestepsleadtothebalconiessurroundingthefirststoryoftheedifices。Theyareusedasbarracks，andare，assuch，themostbeautifulIhaveeverseen。
FromhereapleasantwalkleadstothelovelypalaceofCharlottenburg。Comingfromthelargenewpalaceitseemedtoosmallforthedwellingevenofthecrown-prince。Ishouldhavetakenitforasplendidpavilionattachedtothenewpalace，towhichtheroyalfamilysometimeswalked，andperhapsremainedtheretotakerefreshment。ButwhenIhadinspecteditmoreclosely，andseenallthecomfortablelittlerooms，furnishedwithsuchtastefulluxury，Ifeltthatthecrown-princecouldnothavemadeabetterchoice。
Beautifulfountainsplayontheterraces；thewallsofthecorridorsandanteroomsarecoveredwithsplendidfrescoes，inimitationofthosefoundinPompeii。Theroomsaboundinexcellentengravings，paintings，andotherworksofart；andthegreatesttasteandsplendourisdisplayedevenintheminorarrangements。
AprettyChinesechiosque，filledwithgoodstatues，whichhavebeenunfortunatelymuchdamagedandbroken，standsnearthepalace。
Thesethreebeautifulroyalresidencesaresituatedinparks，whicharesounitedthattheyseemonlyasone。Theparksarefilledwithfinetrees，andverdantfieldscrossedbywell-keptpathsanddrives；butIsawveryfewflower-bedsinthem。
WhenIhadcontemplatedeverythingatleisure，IreturnedtothepalaceofSansSouci，toseethebeautifulfountains，whichplaytwiceaweek，onTuesdayandFriday，fromnoontillevening。Thecolumnsprojectedfromthebasininfrontofthecastlearesovoluminous，andrisewithsuchforce，thatIgazedinamazementattheartifice。Itisrealpleasuretobenearthebasinwhenthesunshinesinitsfullsplendour，formingthemostbeautifulrainbowsinthefallingshowerofdrops。Equallybeautifulisafountainrisingfromahighvase，enwreathedbylivingflowers，andfallingoverit，sothatitformsaquick，briskfountain，transparent，andpureasthefinestcrystal。Thelidofthevase，alsoenwreathedwithgrowingflowers，risesabovethefountain。TheNeptune"sgrottoisofnogreatbeauty；thewaterfallsfromanurnplacedoverit，andformslittlewaterfallsasitflowsovernautilus-shells。
ThemarblepalaceliesontheothersideofPotsdam，andishalfanhour"sdistancefromthesepalaces；butIhadtimeenoughtovisitit。
Enteringtheparkbelongingtothispalace，arowofneatpeasants"
cottagesisseenontheleft；theyareallalike，butseparatedbyfruit，flower，orkitchen-gardens。Thepalaceliesattheextremeendofthepark，onaprettylakeformedbytheriverHavel。Itcertainlyhassomerighttothenameofmarblepalace；butitseemspresumptiontocallitsowhencomparedtothemarblepalacesofVenice，orthemarblemosquesofConstantinople。
Thewallsofthebuildingareofbrickleftinitsnaturalcolour。
Thelowerandupperframe-work，thewindow-sashes，andtheportals，areallofmarble。Thepalaceispartlysurroundedbyagallerysupportedonmarblecolumns。Thestairsareoffinewhitemarble，andmanyoftheapartmentsarelaidwiththismineral。Theinteriorisnotnearlysoluxuriousastheotherpalaces。
ThiswasthelastofthesightsIsawinPotsdamortheenvironsofBerlin；forIcontinuedmyjourneytoViennaonthefollowingday。
BeforequittingBerlin，Imustmentionanarrangementwhichisparticularlyconvenientforstrangers——namely，thefaresforhackney-carriages。Oneneedasknoquestions，butmerelyenterthecarriage，tellthecoachmanwheretodrive，andpayhimsix-pence。
Thismoderatefareisforthewholetown，whichissomewhatextensive。Atalltherailwaystationstherearenumbersofthesevehicles，whichwilldrivetoanyhotel，howeverfaritmaybefromthestation，forthesamemoderatefare。Ifonlyallcab-driversweresoaccommodating!
October1st。
TherailwaygoesthroughLeipzictoDresden，whereItookthemail-
coachforPragueateighto"clockthesameevening，andarrivedthereineighteenhours。
Asitwasnightwhenwepassed，wedidnotenjoythebeautifulviewsoftheNollendorfmountain。Inthemorningwepassedtwohandsomemonuments，oneofthem，apyramidfifty-fourfeethigh，tothememoryofCountColloredo，theothertothememoryoftheRussiantroopswhohadfallenhere；bothhavebeenerectedsincethewarsofNapoleon。
Onwewentthroughcharmingdistrictstothefamedbathing-placeTeplitz，whichissurroundedbythemostbeautifulscenery；andcanbearcomparisonwiththefinestbathing-placesoftheworld。
Furtheronwepassedasolitarybasalticrock，Boren，whichdeservesattentionforitsbeautyandasanaturalcuriosity。Weunfortunatelyhurriedpastit，aswewishedtoreachPraguebeforesixo"clock，sothatwemightnotmissthetraintoVienna。
MyreadersmayimagineourdisappointmentonarrivingatthegatesofPrague，whenourpassportsweretakenfromusandnotreturned。
Invainwereferredtotheviseoftheboundary-townPeterswalde；invainwespokeofourhaste。Theansweralwayswas，"Thatisnothingtous；youcanhaveyourpapersbackto-morrowatthepolice-
office。"Thuswewereputoff，andlosttwenty-fourhours。
ImustmentionalittlejokeIhadontheridefromDresdentoPrague。Twogentlemenandaladybesidemyselfoccupiedthemail-
coach；theladyhappenedtohavereadmydiaryofPalestine，andaskedme，whensheheardmyname，ifIwerethattraveller。WhenI
hadacknowledgedIwasthatsameperson，ourconversationturnedonthatandonmypresentjourney。Oneofthegentlemen，HerrKatze，wasveryintelligent，andconversedinamostinterestingmanneroncountries，nationalities，andscientificsubjects。Theothergentlemanwasprobablyequallywellinformed，buthemadelessuseofhisacquirements。HerrKatzeremainedinTeplitz，andtheothergentlemanproceededwithustoVienna。Beforearrivingatourdestination，heaskedmeifHerrKatzehadnotrequestedmetomentionhisnameinmynextbook，andadded，thatifIwouldpromisetodothesame，hewouldtellmehisname。Icouldnotrefrainfromsmiling，butassuredhimthatHerrKatzehadnotthoughtofsuchathing，andbeggedhimnottocommunicatehisnametome，sothathemightseethatwefemaleswerenotsocuriousaswearesaidtobe。
Butthepoormancouldnotrefrainfromgivingmehisname——NicholasB——beforeweparted。Idonotinsertitfortworeasons:first，becauseIdidnotpromisetonamehim；andsecondly，becauseIdonotthinkitwoulddohimanyservice。
TherailwayfromPraguetoViennagoesoverOlmutz，andmakessuchaconsiderableround，thatthedistanceisnownearly320miles，andthearrangementsontherailwayareveryimperfect。
Therewerenohotelserectedontheroad，andwehadtobecontentwithfruit，beer，bread，andbutter，&c。thewholetime。Andtheseprovisionswerenoteasilyobtained，aswecouldnotventuretoleavethecarriages。Theconductorcalledoutateverystationthatweshouldgoondirectly，althoughthetrainfrequentlystoodupwardsofhalfanhour；butaswedidnotknowthatbefore，wewereobligedtoremainonourseats。Theconductorswerenotofthemostamiablecharacter，whichmayperhapsbeascribedtotheclimate；forwhenweapproachedtheboundaryoftheAustrianstatesatPeterswalde，theinspectorreceivedusverygruffly。Wewishedhimgoodeveningtwice，buthetooknonoticeofit，anddemandedourpapersinaloudandperemptorytone；heprobablythoughtusasdeafaswethoughthim。AtGanserndorf，twenty-fivemilesfromVienna，theytookourpapersfromusinaveryuncivil，uncourteousmanner。
Onthe4thofOctober，1845，afteranabsenceofsixmonths，I
arrivedagaininsightofthedearStephen"ssteeple，asmostofmycountrywomenwouldsay。
Ihadsufferedmanyhardships；butmyloveoftravellingwouldnothavebeenabated，norwouldmycouragehavefailedme，hadtheybeententimesgreater。Ihadbeenamplycompensatedforall。Ihadseenthingswhichneveroccurinourcommonlife，andhadmetwithpeopleastheyarerarelymetwith——intheirnaturalstate。AndI
broughtbackwithmetherecollectionsofmytravels，whichwillalwaysremain，andwhichwillaffordmerenewedpleasureforyears。
AndnowItakeleaveofmydearreaders，requestingthemtoacceptwithindulgencemydescriptions，whicharealwaystrue，thoughtheymaynotbeamusing。IfIhave，asIcanscarcelyhope，affordedthemsomeamusement，Itrusttheywillinreturngrantmeasmallcornerintheirmemories。
Inconclusion，IbegtoaddanAppendix，whichmaynotbeuninterestingtomanyofmyreaders，namely:
1。AdocumentwhichIprocuredinReikjavik，givingthesalariesoftheroyalDanishofficials，andthesourcesfromwhencetheyarepaid。
2。AlistofIcelandicinsects，butterflies，flowers，andplants，whichIcollectedandbroughthomewithme。
APPENDIXA
SalariesoftheRoyalDanishOfficialsinIceland，whichtheyreceivefromtheIcelandicland-revenues。
Florins{58}
TheGovernorofIceland2000
Officeexpenses600
Thedeputyforthewesterndistrict1586
Officeexpenses400
Rent200
Thedeputyforthenorthernandeasterndistricts1286
Officeexpenses400
ThebishopofIceland，whodrawshissalaryfromtheschool-revenues，haspaidhimfromthistreasury800
ThemembersoftheSupremeCourt:
Onejudge1184
Firstassessor890
Secondassessor740
Theland-bailiffofIceland600
Officeexpenses200
Rent150
Thetown-bailiffofReikjavik300
Thefirstpolice-officerofReikjavik，whoisatthesametimegaoler，andthereforehas50fl。morethanthesecondofficer200
Thesecondpolice-officer150
ThemayorofReikjavikonlydrawsfromthistreasuryhishouse-rent，whichis15O
ThesysselmanoftheWestmannsIslands296
Theothersysselmen，each230
Medicaldepartmentandmidwifery:
Thephysician900
House-rent150
ApothecaryofReikjavik185
House-rent150
ThesecondapothecaryatSikkisholm90
Sixsurgeonsinthecountry，each300
House-rentforsome30
Forothers25
AmedicalpractitionerontheNorthland110
Reikjavikhastwomidwives，eachreceives50
TheothermidwivesinIceland，amountingtothirty，eachreceives100
Thesemidwivesareinstructedandexaminedbythelandphysician，whohasthechargeofpayingthemannually。
OrganistofReikjavik100
Fromtheschool-revenuesThebishopreceives1200
Theteachersatthehighschool:
Theteacheroftheology800
Theheadassistant，besidesfreelodging500
Thesecondassistant500
House-rent50
Thethirdassistant500
House-rent50
Theresidentattheschool170
LISTOFINVERTEBRATEDANIMALScollectedinIceland1。CRUSTACEA。
PagarusBernhardus，Linnaeus。
2。INSECTA。
a。Coleoptera。Nebriarubripes，Dejean。Patrobushyperboreus。
Calathusmelanocephalus，Fabr。Notiophilusaquaticus。Amaravulgaris，Duftsihm。Ptinusfur，Linn。AphodiusLapponum，Schh。
Otiorhynchuslaevigatus，Dhl。OtiorhynchusPinastri，Fabr。
Otiorhynchusovatus。Staphylinusmaxillosus。Byrrhuspillula。
b。Neuroptera。Limnophiluslineola，Schrank。
c。Hymenoptera。Pimplainstigator，Gravh。Bombussubterraneus，Linn。
d。Lepidoptera。Geometrarussata，Hub。Geom。alchemillata。
Geom。spec。nov。
e。Diptera。Tipulalunata，Meig。Scatophagastercoraria。Muscavomitaria。Muscamortuorum。Helomyzaserrata。Lecogasterislandicus，Scheff。{59}Anthomyiadecolor，Fallin。
LISTOFICELANDICPLANTScollectedbyIdaPfeifferintheSummeroftheyear1845
Felices。Cystopterisfragilis。
Equisetaceae。EquisetumTeltamegra。
Graminae。Festucauniglumis。
Cyperaceae。Careafiliformis。Careacaespitosa。Eriophorumcaespitosum。
Juncaceae。Luzulaspicata。Luzulacampestris。
Salicineae。Salixpolaris。
Polygoneae。Remuxarifolus。Oxyriareniformes。
Plumbagineae。Armeriaalpina(intheinteriormountainousdistricts)。
Compositae。Chrysanthemummaritimum(onthesea-shore，andonmarshyfields)。Hieraciumalpinum(ongrassyplains)。Taraxacumalpinum。Erigeronuniflorum(westofHavenfiord，onrockysoil)。
Rubiaceae。Galliumpusillum。Galliumverum。
Labiatae。Thynusserpyllum。
Asperifoliae。Myosotisalpestris。Myosotisscorpioicles。
Scrophularineae。Bartsiaalpina(intheinteriornorth-westernvalleys)。Rhinanthusalpestris。
Utricularieae。Pinguiculaalpina。Pinguiculavulgaris。
Umbelliferae。Archangelicaofficinalis(Havenfiord)。
Saxifrageae。Saxifragacaespitosa(therealLinnaeanplant:onrocksroundHecla)。
Ranunculaceae。Ranunculusauricomus。Ranunculusnivalis。
Thalictrumalpinum(growingbetweenlava，nearReikjavik)。Calthapalustris。
Cruciferae。Drabaverna。Cardaminepratensis。
Violariceae。Violahirta。
Caryophylleae。Saginastricta。Cerastiumsemidecandrum。Lepigonumrubrum。Silenemaritima。Lychnisalpina(onthemountain-fieldsroundReikjavik)。
Empetreae。Empetrumnigrum。
Geraniaceae。Geraniumsylvaticum(inpitsnearThingvalla)。
Troseaceae。Parnassiapalustris。
OEnothereae。Epilobiumlatifolium(incleftsofthemountainatthefootofHecla)。Epilobiumalpinum(inReikervalley，westofHavenfiord)。
Rosaceae。Rubusarcticus。Potentillaanserina。Potentillagronlandica(onrocksnearKallmanstungaandKollismola)。
Alchemillamontana。Sanguisorbaofficinalis。Geumrivale。Dryasoctopela(nearHavenfiord)。
Papilionaceae。Trifoliumrepens。
Footnotes:
{1}InthisGutenbergeTextonlyMadamePfeiffer"sworkappears——
DP。
{2}MadamePfeiffer"sfirstjourneywastotheHolyLandin1842；
andonherreturnfromIcelandshestartedin1846ona"JourneyroundtheWorld，"fromwhichshereturnedintheendof1848。Thisadventurousladyisnow(1853)travellingamongtheislandsoftheEasternArchipelago——ED。
{3}Aflorinisworthabout2s。1d。；sixtykreutzersgotoaflorin。
{4}AtKuttenbergthefirstsilvergroschenswerecoined，intheyear1300。Thesilverminesarenowexhausted，thoughothermines，ofcopper，zinc，&c。arewroughtintheneighbourhood。Thepopulationisonlyhalfofwhatitoncewas——ED。
{5}TheexpressionofMadamePfeiffer"saboutFrederick"payinghisscoretotheAustrians，"issomewhatvague。Thefactsarethese。
In1757FredericktheGreatofPrussiainvadedBohemia，andlaidsiegetoPrague。BeforethiscityanAustrianarmylay，whowereattackedwithgreatimpetuositybyFrederick，andcompletelydefeated。Butthetownwasdefendedwithgreatvalour；andduringthetimethusgainedtheAustriangeneralDaunraisedfreshtroops，withwhichhetookthefieldatCollin。HerehewasattackedbyFrederick，whowasrouted，andallhisbaggageandcannoncaptured。
Thislosswas"payinghisscore；"andthedefeatwassocomplete，thatthegreatmonarchsatdownbythesideofafountain，andtracingfiguresinthesand，waslostforalongtimeinmeditationonthemeanstobeadoptedtoretrievehisfortune——ED。
{6}Imentionthislittleincidenttowarnthetravelleragainstpartingwithhiseffects。
{7}Thetrueversionofthisaffairisasfollows。JohnofNepomukwasapriestservingundertheArchbishopofPrague。Theking，Wenceslaus，wasahasty，crueltyrant，whowasdetestedbyallhissubjects，andhatedbytherestofGermany。Twopriestswereguiltyofsomecrime，andoneofthecourtchamberlains，actingunderroyalorders，causedtheprieststobeputtodeath。Thearchbishop，indignantatthis，placedthechamberlainunderaninterdict。Thissorousedthekingthatheattemptedtoseizethearchbishop，whotookrefugeinflight。JohnofNepomuk，however，andanotherpriest，wereseizedandputtothetorturetoconfesswhatwerethedesignsofthearchbishop。Thekingseemstohavesuspectedthatthequeenwasinsomewayconnectedwiththelineofconductpursuedbythearchbishop。JohnofNepomuk，however，refused，eventhoughtheKingwithhisownhandburnedhimwithatorch。Irritatedbyhisobstinatesilence，thekingcausedthepoormonktobecastoverthebridgeintotheMoldau。Thismonkwasafterwardscanonised，andmadethepatronsaintofbridges——ED。
{8}AlbertvonWallenstein(orWaldstein)，thefamousDukeofFriedland，iscelebratedasoneoftheablestcommandersoftheimperialforcesduringtheprotractedreligiouscontestknowninGermanhistoryasthe"ThirtyYears"War。"DuringitsearlierperiodWallensteingreatlydistinguishedhimself，andwascreatedbytheEmperorFerdinandDukeofFriedlandandgeneralissimooftheimperialforces。InthecourseofafewmonthsWallensteinraisedanarmyoffortythousandmenintheEmperor"sservice。ThestrictestdisciplinewaspreservedWITHINhiscamp，buthistroopssupportedthemselvesbyasystemofrapineandplunderunprecedentedeveninthosedaysofmilitarylicense。Meritwasrewardedwithprincelymunificence，andthehighestofficeswerewithinthereachofeverycommonsoldierwhodistinguishedhimself；——trivialbreachesofdisciplinewerepunishedwithdeath。ThedarkandambitiousspiritofWallensteinwouldnotallowhimtorestsatisfiedwiththerewardsanddignitiesheapeduponhimbyhisimperialmaster。Hetemporisedandenteredintonegotiationswiththeenemy；andduringaninterviewwithaSwedishgeneral(Arnheim)，isevensaidtohaveproposedanallianceto"hunttheEmperortothedevil。"ItissupposedthatheaspiredtothesovereigntyofBohemia。Ferdinandwasinformedoftheambitiousdesignsofhisgeneral，andatlengthdeterminedthatWallensteinshoulddie。Hedespatchedoneofhisgenerals，Gallas，tothecommander-in-chief，withamandatedeprivinghimofhisdignityofgeneralissimo，andnominatingGallasashissuccessor。Surprisedbeforehisplanswereripe，anddesertedbymanyonwhosesupporthehadrelied，WallensteinretiredhastilyuponEgra。Duringabanquetinthecastle，threeofhisgeneralswhoremainedfaithfultotheirleaderweremurderedinthedeadofnight。Rousedbythenoise，Wallensteinleaptfromhisbed，andencounteredthreesoldierswhohadbeenhiredtodespatchhim。
Speechlesswithastonishmentandindignation，hestretchedforthhisarms，andreceivinginhisbreastthestrokeofahalbert，felldeadwithoutagroan，inthefifty-firstyearofhisage。
Thefollowinganecdote，curiouslyillustrativeofthestateofaffairsinWallenstein"scamp，isrelatedbySchillerinhisHistoryoftheThirtyYears"War，aworkcontainingafullaccountofthelifeandactionsofthisextraordinaryman。"TheextortionsofWallenstein"ssoldiersfromthepeasantshadatoneperiodreachedsuchapitch，thatseverepenaltiesweredenouncedagainstallmarauders；andeverysoldierwhoshouldbeconvictedoftheftwasthreatenedwithahalter。Shortlyafterwards，itchancedthatWallensteinhimselfmetasoldierstrayinginthefield，whomhecausedtobeseized，ashavingviolatedthelaw，andcondemnedtothegallowswithoutatrial，byhisusualwordofdoom:"Lettherascalbehung!"Thesoldierprotested，andprovedhisinnocence。
"Thenletthemhangtheinnocent，"criedtheinhumanWallenstein；
"andtheguiltywilltremblethemore。"Thepreparationsforcarryingthissentenceintoeffecthadalreadycommenced，whenthesoldier，whosawhimselflostwithoutremedy，formedthedesperateresolutionthathewouldnotdieunrevenged。Rushingfuriouslyuponhisleader，hewasseizedanddisarmedbythebystandersbeforehecouldcarryhisintentionintoeffect。"Nowlethimgo，"saidWallenstein；"itwillexciteterrorenough。""——ED。
{9}PoniatowskiwasthecommanderofthePolishlegioninthearmiesofNapoleon，bywhomhewashighlyrespected。AtthebattleofLeipzig，foughtinOctober1813，PoniatowskiandMarshalMacDonaldwereappointedtocommandtherearofNapoleon"sarmy，which，aftertwodayshardfighting，wascompelledtoretreatbeforetheAllies。Thesegeneralsdefendedtheretreatofthearmysogallantly，thatalltheFrenchtroops，exceptthoseundertheirimmediatecommand，hadevacuatedthetown。Therear-guardwaspreparingtofollow，whentheonlybridgeovertheElsterthatremainedopentothemwasdestroyed，throughsomemistake。ThiseffectuallybarredtheescapeoftherearofNapoleon"sarmy。A
few，amongwhomwasMarshalMacDonald，succeededinswimmingacross；
butPoniatowski，aftermakingabraveresistance，andrefusingtosurrender，wasdrownedinmakingthesameattempt——ED。
{10}Leipzighaslongbeenfamousasthechiefbook-martofGermany。AtthegreatEastermeetings，publishersfromallthedifferentstatesassembleatthe"BuchhandlerBorse，"andalargeamountofbusinessisdone。ThefairsofLeipzighavedonemuchtowardsestablishingthepositionofthiscityasoneofthefirsttradingtownsinGermany。Theytakeplacethreetimesannually:atNew-year，atEaster，andatMichaelmas；buttheEasterfairisbyfarthemostimportant。Thesecommercialmeetingslastaboutthreeweeks，andduringthistimethetownpresentsamostanimatedappearance，asthestreetsarethrongedwiththecostumesofalmosteverynation，thesmartdressoftheTyrolesecontrastinggailywiththesombregarbofthePolishJews。Theamountofbusinesstransactedatthesefairsisveryconsiderable；onseveraloccasions，abovetwentythousanddealershaveassembled。Thetradeisprincipallyinwoollencloths；butlighterwares，andevenornamentsofeverydescription，aresoldtoalargeextent。Themannerinwhicheveryavailableplaceistakenadvantageofisverycurious:archways，cellars，passages，andcourtyardsarealikefilledwithmerchandise，andthestreetsareattimessocrowdedastobealmostimpassable。Whenthethreeweekshavepassed，thewoodenboothswhichhavebeenerectedinthemarket-placeandtheprincipalstreetsaretakendown，thebuyersandsellersvanishtogether，andthevisitorwouldscarcelyrecogniseinthequietstreetsaroundhimthebustlingbusycityofafewdaysago——ED。
{11}Thefirebrokeouton4thMay1842，andragedwiththeutmostfuryforthreedays。Wholestreetsweredestroyed，andatleast2000housesburnedtotheground。Nearlyhalfamillionofmoneywasraisedinforeigncountriestoassistinrebuildingthecity，ofwhichaboutatenthwascontributedbyBritain。Suchawfulfires，fearfulthoughtheyareatthetime，seemabsolutelynecessarytogreattowns，astheycauseneedfulimprovementstobemade，whichtheindolenceorselfishnessoftheinhabitantswouldotherwiseprevent。Thereisnotagreatcitythathasnotatonetimeoranothersufferedseverelyfromfire，andhasrisenoutoftheruinsgreaterthanbefore——ED。
{12}TherearenodocksatHamburgh，consequentlyallthevesselslieintheriverElbe，andbothreceiveanddischargetheircargoesthere。MadamePfeiffer，however，ismistakeninsupposingthatonlyLondoncouldshowapictureofsomanyshipsandsomuchcommercialactivitysurpassingthatofHamburgh。Suchapicture，moreimpressiveeventhanthatseenintheElbe，isexhibitedeverydayintheMerseyortheHudson——ED。
{13}Kiel，however，isaplaceofconsiderabletrade；anddoubtlessthereasonwhyMadamePfeiffersawsofewvesselsatitwaspreciselythesamereasonwhyshesawsomanyatHamburgh。Kielcontainsanexcellentuniversity——ED。
{14}AtseaIcalculatebysea-miles，ofwhichsixtygotoadegree。
{15}ThisgreatDanishsculptorwasbornofpoorparentsatCopenhagen，onthe19thNovember，1770；hisfatherwasanIcelander，andearnedhislivingbycarvingfigure-headsforships。Albert，or"Bertel，"asheismoregenerallycalled，wasaccustomedduringhisyouthtoassisthisfatherinhislaboursonthewharf。AtanearlyagehevisitedtheAcademyatCopenhagen，wherehisgeniussoonbegantomakeitselfconspicuous。Attheageofsixteenhehadwonasilver，andattwentyagoldmedal。Twoyearslaterhecarriedoffthe"great"goldmedal，andwassenttostudyabroadattheexpenseoftheAcademy。In1797wefindhimpractisinghisartatRomeundertheeyeofZoegatheDane，whodoesnot，however，seemtohavediscoveredindicationsofextraordinarygeniusinthelaboursofhisyoungcountryman。ButaworkwassoontoappearwhichshouldsetallquestionsastoThorwaldsen"stalentforeveratrest。In1801heproducedhiscelebratedstatueof"Jason，"whichwasatoncepronouncedbythegreatCanovatobe"aworkinanewandagrandstyle。"Afterthisperiodthepathoffamelayopenbeforetheyoungsculptor；hisbas-reliefsof"Summer"and"Autumn，"the"DanceoftheMuses，""CupidandPsyche，"andnumerousotherworks，followedeachotherinrapidsuccession；andatlength，in1812，Thorwaldsenproducedhisextraordinarywork，"TheTriumphofAlexander。"In1819Thorwaldsenreturnedrichandfamoustothecityhehadquittedasayouthtwenty-threeyearsbefore；hewasreceivedwithgreathonour，andmanyfeastsandrejoicingswereheldtocelebratehisarrival。AfterasojournofayearThorwaldsenagainvisitedRome，wherehecontinuedhislaboursuntil1838，when，wealthyandindependent，heresolvedtorestinhisnativecountry。
ThistimehiswelcometoCopenhagenwasevenmoreenthusiasticthanin1819。Thewholeshorewaslinedwithspectators，andamidthunderingacclamationsthehorseswereunharnessedfromhiscarriage，andthesculptorwasdrawnintriumphbythepeopletohisatelier。DuringtheremainderofhislifeThorwaldsenpassedmuchofhistimeontheislandofNyso，wheremostofhislatestworkswereexecuted。OnSunday，March9th，1842，hehadbeenconversingwithacircleoffriendsinperfecthealth。Halm"stragedyofGriseldawasannouncedfortheevening，andThorwaldsenproceededtothetheatretowitnesstheperformance。Duringtheovertureherosetoallowastrangertopass，thenresumedhisseat，andamomentafterwardshisheadsunkonhisbreast——hewasdead!
Hisfuneralwasmostsumptuous。Richandpoorunitedtodohonourtothememoryofthegreatman，whohadendearedhimselftothembyhisvirtuesasbyhisgenius。Thecrown-princefollowedthecoffin，andthepeopleofCopenhagenstoodintwolongrows，anduncoveredtheirheadsasthecoffinofthesculptorwascarriedpast。Thekinghimselftookpartinthesolemnity。AtthetimeofhisdeceaseThorwaldsenhadcompletedhisseventy-secondyear——ED。
{16}TychodeBrahewasadistinguishedastronomer，wholivedbetween1546and1601。HewasanativeofDenmark。Hiswholelifemaybesaidtohavebeendevotedtoastronomy。AsmallworkthathepublishedwhenayoungmanbroughthimunderthenoticeoftheKingofDenmark，withwhoseassistanceheconstructed，onthesmallislandofHulln，afewmilesnorthofCopenhagen，thecelebratedObservatoryofUranienburg。Here，seatedin"theancientchair"
referredtointhetext，andsurroundedbynumerousassistants，hedirectedforseventeenyearsaseriesofobservations，thathavebeenfoundextremelyaccurateanduseful。OnthedeathofhispatronheretiredtoPragueinBohemia，wherehewasemployedbyRodolphII。thenEmperorofGermany。HerehewasassistedbythegreatKepler，who，onTycho"sdeathin1601，succeededhim——ED。
{17}ThefisheriesofIcelandhavebeenveryvaluable，andindeedthechiefsourceofthecommerceofthecountryeversinceitwasdiscovered。Thefishchieflycaughtarecodandthetuskorcat-
fish。Theyareexportedinlargequantities，curedinvariousways。
SincethediscoveryofNewfoundland，however，thefisheriesofIcelandhavelostmuchoftheirimportance。Soearlyas1415，theEnglishsentfishingvesselstotheIcelandiccoast，andthesailorswhowereonboard，itwouldappear，behavedsobadlytothenativesthatHenryV。hadtomakesomecompensationtotheKingofDenmarkfortheirconduct。ThegreatestnumberoffishingvesselsfromEnglandthatevervisitedIcelandwasduringthereignofJamesI。，whosemarriagewiththesisteroftheDanishkingmightprobablymakeEnglandatthetimethemostfavourednation。ItwasinhistimethatanEnglishpirate，"GentlemanJohn，"ashewascalled，committedgreatravagesinIceland，forwhichJameshadafterwardstomakecompensation。ThechiefmarketsforthefishareintheCatholiccountriesofEurope。Intheseventeenthcentury，agreattrafficinfishwascarriedonbetweenIcelandandSpain——ED。
{18}ThedueschargedbytheDanishGovernmentonallvesselspassingthroughtheSoundhavebeenleviedsince1348，andthereforeenjoyaprescriptiverightofmorethanfivehundredyears。TheybringtotheDanishGovernmentayearlyrevenueofaboutaquarterofamillion；and，inconsiderationofthedues，theGovernmenthastosupportcertainlighthouses，andotherwisetorendersafeandeasythenavigationofthisgreatentrancetotheBaltic。Sound-
dueswerefirstpaidinthepalmycommercialdaysoftheHanseaticLeague。ThatpowerfulcombinationofmerchantshadsufferedseverelyfromtheravagesofDanishpirates，royalandotherwise；
butultimatelytheybecamesopowerfulthattherichmerchantcouldbeattheroyalbuccaneer，andtamehisferocitysoeffectuallyastoinducehimtobuildandmaintainthosebeacon-lightsontheshoresoftheSound，forwhoseusetheyandallnationsandmerchantsafterthemhaveagreedtopaycertainduties——ED。
{19}TheFeroeIslandsconsistofagreatmanyislets，someofthemmererocks，lyingabouthalfwaybetweenthenorthcoastofScotlandandIceland。AtonetimetheybelongedtoNorway，butcameintothepossessionofDenmarkatthesametimeasIceland。Theyareexceedinglymountainous，someofthemountainsattaininganelevationofabout2800feet。Thelargesttownorvillagedoesnotcontainmorethan1500or1600inhabitants。Thepopulationlivechieflyontheproduceoftheirlargeflocksofsheep，andonthedownprocured，oftenatgreatrisktohumanlife，fromtheeider-
duckandotherbirdsbywhichtheislandisfrequented——ED。
{20}Ishouldbetrulysorryif，inthisdescriptionofour"lifeaboardship，"IhadsaidanythingwhichcouldgiveoffencetomykindfriendHerrKnudson。Ihave，however，presumedthateveryoneisawarethatthemodeoflifeatseaisdifferenttolifeinfamilies。Ihaveonlytoadd，thatHerrKnudsonlivedmostagreeablynotonlyinCopenhagen，butwhatisfarmoreremarkable，inIcelandalso，andwasprovidedwitheverycomfortprocurableinthelargestEuropeantowns。
{21}Itisnotonlyatseathatingeniousexcusesfordrinkingareinvented。Theloversofgoodorbadliquoronlandfindthesereasonsas"plentyasblackberries，"andapplythemwithamarvellouswantofstintorscruple。Inwarmclimatestheliquorisdranktokeepthedrinkercool，incoldtokeephimwarm；inhealthtopreventhimfrombeingsick，insicknesstobringhimbacktohealth。Veryseldomistherealreason，"becauseIlikeit，"given；
andalltheseexcusesandreasonsmustberegardedasimplyingsomelingeringsenseofshameattheact，andasformingpartof"thehomagethatvicealwayspaystovirtue。"——ED。
{22}Thesailorscallthosewaves"Spanish"which，comingfromthewest，distinguishthemselvesbytheirsize。
{23}Theseislandsformarockygroup，onlyoneofwhichisinhabited，lyingaboutfifteenmilesfromthecoast。TheyaresaidtoderivetheirnamefromsomenativesofIreland，calledWest-men，whovisitedIcelandshortlyafteritsdiscoverybytheNorwegians。
Inthisthereisnothingimprobable，forweknowthatduringtheninthandtenthcenturiestheDanesandNormans，calledEasterlings，mademanydescentsontheIrishcoast；andoneNorwegianchiefisreportedtohaveassumedsovereignpowerinIrelandabouttheyear866，thoughhewasafterwardsdeposed，andflungintoalough，wherehewasdrowned:ratheranignominiousdeathfora"sea-king。"——ED。
{24}Thiswork，whichMadamePfeifferdoesnotpraisetoohighly，wasfirstpublishedin1810。Afterpassingthroughtwoeditions，itwasreprintedin1841，atacheapprice，inthevaluablepeople"seditionsofstandardworks，publishedbyMessrs。ChambersofEdinburgh——ED。
{25}ItisrelatedofIngoldthathecarriedwithhimonhisvoyagethedoorofhisformerhouseinIreland，andthatwhenheapproachedthecoasthecastitintothesea，watchingthepointoflandwhichittouched；andonthatlandhefixedhisfuturehome。ThislandisthesameonwhichthetownofReikjaviknowstands。Theseoldsea-
kings，likethemenofAthens，were"inallthingstoosuperstitious。"——ED。
{26}Thesesea-rovers，thatweretothenationsofEuropeduringthemiddleageswhattheDanes，Norwegians，andothernorthmenwereatanearlierperiod，enjoyedatthistimethefullflowoftheirlawlessprosperity。Theirinsolenceandpowerweresogreatthatmanynations，ourownincluded，weregladtopurchase，byayearlypayment，exemptionfromtheattacksofthesesea-rovers。TheAmericanspaidthistributesolateas1815。TheunfortunateIcelanderswhowerecarriedoffintheseventeenthcenturynearlyalldiedascaptivesinAlgiers。Attheendoftenyearstheywereliberated；butofthefourhundredonlythirty-sevenwerealivewhenthejoyfulintelligencereachedtheplaceoftheircaptivity；andofthesetwenty-fourdiedbeforerejoiningtheirnativeland——ED。
{27}Thistown，thecapitalofIceland，andtheseatofgovernment，isbuiltonanarmoftheseacalledtheFaxefiord，inthesouth-
westpartoftheisland。Theresidentpopulationdoesnotexceed500，butthisisgreatlyincreasedduringtheannualfairs。Itconsistsmainlyoftwostreetsatrightanglestoeachother。Itcontainsalargechurchbuiltofstone，roofedwithtiles；anobservatory；theresidencesofthegovernorandthebishop，andtheprison，whichisperhapsthemostconspicuousbuildinginthetown——
ED。
{28}AsMadamePfeifferhadthusnoopportunityofattendingaballinIceland，thefollowingdescriptionofonegivenbySirGeorgeMackenziemaybeinterestingtothereader。
"WegaveaballtotheladiesofReikjavikandtheneighbourhood。
Thecompanybegantoassembleaboutnineo"clock。Wewereshewnintoasmalllow-roofedroom，inwhichwereanumberofmen，buttomysurpriseIsawnofemales。Wesoonfoundthem，however，inoneadjoining，whereitisthecustomforthemtowaittilltheirpartnersgotohandthemout。Onenteringthisapartment，IfeltconsiderabledisappointmentatnotobservingasinglewomandressedintheIcelandiccostume。ThedresseshadsomeresemblancetothoseofEnglishchambermaids，butwerenotsosmart。Anoldlady，thewifeofthemanwhokeptthetavern，washabitedlikethepicturesofourgreat-grandmothers。Sometimeafterthedancingcommenced，thebishop"slady，andtwoothers，appearedintheproperdressofthecountry。