第10章

EverySundaymorning，ateighto"clock，alittlesteamerleavesStockholmforthiscastle；thedistanceisaboutforty-fivemiles，andispassedinfourhours；fourhoursmoreareallowedforthestay，andintheeveningthesteamerreturnstoStockholm。Thisexcursionisveryinteresting，althoughwepassthegreaterpartofthetimeonthatportionofthelakewhichwehadseenonourarrival，butforthelastfewmilestheshipturnedintoaprettybay，atwhoseapexthecastleissituated。Itisdistinguishedforitssize，itsarchitecture，anditscolossalturrets。Itisunfortunately，however，paintedwiththefavouritebrick-redcolouroftheSwedes。

Twoimmensecannons，whichtheSwedesoncegainedinbattlefromtheRussians，standinthecourtyard。Theapartmentsinthecastle，whicharekeptingoodcondition，displayneithersplendournorprofusionofappointments，indeedalmostthecontrary。Theprettytheatreis，however，anexception:foritswallsareinlaidfromtoptobottomwithmirrors，itspillarsaregilt，andtheroyalboxtapestriedwithrichredvelvet。TherehasbeennoperformanceheresincethedeathofGustavusIII。

Theimmenselymassivewallsarearemarkablefeatureofthispalace，andmustmeasureaboutthreeyardsinthicknessinthelowerstories。

Theupperapartmentsarealllargeandhigh，andaffordasplendidviewofthelakefromtheirwindows。Butitisimpossibletoenjoythesebeautifulsceneswhenonethinksofthesadeventswhichhavetakenplacehere。

Twokings，JohnIII。andEricXIV。，thelatterwithfourofhisministers，whoweresubsequentlybeheaded，wereimprisonedhereformanyyears。ThecaptivityofJohnIII。wouldnothavebeensobad，ifcaptivitywerenotbadenoughinitself。Hewasconfinedinalargesplendidsaloon，butwhichhewasnotpermittedtoquit，andwhichhewouldthereforeprobablyhavegladlyexchangedforthepooresthutandliberty。Hiswifeinhabitedtwosmallerapartmentsadjoining；shewasnottreatedasaprisoner，andcouldleavethecastleatwill。HissonSigismundwasbornhereintheyear1566，andtheroomandbedinwhichhewasbornarestillshewnascuriosities。

Eric"sfatewasmuchmoreunfortunate，forhewaskeptinnarrowanddarkconfinement。Asmallrudely-furnishedapartment，withnarrow，iron-barredwindows，inoneofthelittleturretswashisprison。

Theentrancewasclosedbyasolidoakendoor，inwhichasmallopeninghadbeenmade，throughwhichhisfoodwasgivenhim。Forgreatersecuritythisoakendoorwascoveredbyanironone。Roundtheoutsideoftheapartmentanarrowgalleryhadbeenmade，onwhichtheguardswereposted，andcouldatalltimesseetheirprisonerthroughthebarredwindows。Thespotisstillshewnatoneofthewindowswherethekingsatforhourslookingintothedistance，hisheadleaningonhishand。Whatmusthavebeenhisfeelingsashegazedonthebrightsky，theverdantturf，andthesmilinglake!Howmanysighsmusthavebeenechoedfromthesewalls，howmanysleeplessnightsmusthehavepassedduringthosetwolongyearsinanxiousexpectationofthefuture!

Theguidewhotookusroundthecastlemaintainedthatthefloorwasmorewornonthisspotthananywhereelse，andthatthewindow-sashhadbeenhollowedbytheelbowofthemiserableking；butIcouldnotperceiveanydifference。Ericwaskeptimprisonedherefortwoyears，andwasthentakentoanotherprison。

Thereisalargepicture-galleryinthiscastle；butitcontainsprincipallyportraitsofkings，notonlyofSweden，butofothercountries，fromtheMiddleAgesdowntothepresenttime；alsoportraitsofministers，generals，painters，poets，andlearnedmen；

ofcelebratedSwedishfemales，whohavesacrificedthemselvesfortheircountry，andofthemostcelebratedfemalebeauties。Thenameanddateofbirthofeachpersonareaffixedtohisorherportrait，sothateachvisitormayfindhisfavouritewithoutguideorcatalogue。Inmanyofthemthecolouringanddrawingarewretchedenough，butwewillhopethattheresemblanceisallthemorestriking。

Onourreturnseveralgentlemenwerekindenoughtodirectmyattentiontothemostinterestingpointsofthelake。AmongtheseI

mustmentionKakeholm，itsbroadestpoint；theislandofEsmoi，onwhichaSwedishfemalegainedabattle；Norsberg，alsocelebratedforabattlewhichtookplacethere；andSturrehof，thepropertyofagreatSwedishfamily。NearBjarkesoeasimplecrossiserected，ostensiblyonthespotwhereChristianitywasfirstintroduced。

IndeedtheMalarseehassomanyhistoricalassociations，inadditiontotheattractionsofitsscenery，thatitisoneofthemostinterestingseasnotonlyofSwedenbutofEurope。

JOURNEYFROMSTOCKHOLMTOUPSALAANDTOTHEIRON-MINESOFDANEMORA

September12th。

TheintercoursebetweenStockholmandUpsalaisveryconsiderable。

AsteamerleavesbothplaceseverydayexceptSunday，andtraversesthedistanceinsixhours。

TemptedbythisconvenientopportunityofeasilyandquicklyreachingthecelebratedtownofUpsala，andbytheunusuallyfineweather，Itookmypassageoneevening，andwasgreatlydisappointedwhen，onthefollowingmorning，therainpoureddownintorrents。

Butiftravellerspaidmuchattentiontotheweather，theywouldnotgofar；soIneverthelessembarkedathalf-pastseven，andarrivedsafelyinUpsala。Iremainedinthecabinduringthepassage，andcouldnotevenenjoytheprospectfromthecabin-windows，fortherainbeatonthemfromtheoutside，whileinsidetheywereobscuredbytheheat。ButIdidnotventureondeck，hopingtobefavouredbybetterweatheronmyreturn。

Atlast，aboutthreeo"clock，whenIhadbeeninUpsalamorethananhour，theweatherclearedup，andIsalliedouttoseethesights。

FirstIvisitedthecathedral。Ientered，andstoodstillwithastonishmentatthechiefportal，onlookingupatthehighroofrestingontworowsofpillars，andcoveringthewholechurch。Itisformedinonebeautifulstraightline，unbrokenbyasinglearch。

Thechurchitselfissimple:behindthegrandaltarahandsomechapeliserected，theceilingofwhichispaintedazureblue，embossedwithgoldenstars。InthischapelGustavusI。isinterredbetweenhistwowives。Themonumentwhichcoversthegraveislarge，andmadeofmarble，butclumsyandvoidoftaste。Itrepresentsasarcophagus，onwhichthreebodies，thesizeoflife，arelaid；amarblecanopyisraisedoverthem。Thewallsofthechapelarecoveredwithprettyfrescoes，representingthemostremarkablescenesinthelifeofthismonarch。Themostinterestingamongthemare，oneinwhichheentersapeasant"shutinpeasant"sattire，atthesamemomentthathispursuersareeagerlyinquiringafterhiminfrontofthehut；theother，whenhestandsonabarrel，alsodressedasapeasant，andharangueshispeople。TwolargetabletsinabroadgoldframecontaininSwedish，andnotintheLatinlanguage，theexplanationofthedifferentpictures，sothateverySwedemayeasilylearnthemonarch"shistory。

Severalothermonumentsareerectedintheside-chapels；thoseofCatharineMagelone，JohnIII。，GustavusErichson，whowasbeheaded，andofthetwobrothersSturre，whoweremurdered。ThemonumentofArchbishopMenander，inwhitemarble，isatastefulandartisticmodernproduction。ThegreatLinnaeusisburiedunderasimplemarbleslabinthischurch；buthismonumentisinoneoftheside-

chapels，andnotoverhisgrave，andconsistsofabeautifuldark-

brownporphyryslab，onwhichhisportraitissculpturedinrelief。

Thesplendidorgan，whichreachesnearlytotheroofofthechurch，alsodeservesspecialattention。Thetreasure-chamberdoesnotcontaingreattreasures；theblood-stainedanddagger-torngarmentsoftheunfortunatebrothersSturrearekeptinaglasscasehere；

andherealsostandsawoodenstatueoftheheathengodThor。ThiswoodenaffairseemstohaveoriginallybeenanEcceHomo，whichwasperhapstheornamentofsomevillagechurch，thencarriedoffbysomeunbeliever，andmademoreshapelessthanitscreator，notproficientinart，hadmadeit。Ithasagreaterresemblancenowtoafrightfulscarecrowthantoanythingelse。

Thechurchyardnearthechurchisdistinguishedforitssizeandbeauty。Itissurroundedbyawallofstonetwofeethigh，surmountedbyanironpalisadingofequalheight，brokenbystonepillars。Onseveralsides，stepsaremadeintotheburying-groundoverthispartition。Inthiscemetery，asintheoneofStockholm，oneseemstobeinalovelygarden，laidoutwithalleys，arbours，lawns，&c。；butitismorebeautifulthantheother，becauseitisolder。Thegravesarehalfconcealedbyarbours；manywereornamentedwithflowersandwreaths，orhedgedbyrose-bushes。Thewholeaspectofthiscemetery，orratherofthisgarden，seemsequallyadaptedfortheamusementofthelivingorthereposeofthedead。

Themonumentsareinnowaydistinguished；onlytwoareratherremarkable，fortheyconsistoftremendouspiecesofrockintheirnaturalcondition，standinguprightonthegraves。Oneofthesemonumentsresemblesamountain；itcoverstheashesofageneral，andislargeenoughtohavecoveredhiswholearmy；hisrelativesprobablytookthegravesofTroyasaspecimenfortheirmonument。

Itismoreoverinscribedbyverypeculiarsigns，whichseemedtometoberuniccharacters。Thegoodpeoplehaveunitedinthismonumenttwocharacteristicsoftheancientsoftwoentirelydistinctempires。

TheuniversityorlibrarybuildinginUpsalaislargeandbeautiful；

itissituatedonalittlehill，withafinefrontfacingthetown。

Thepark，whichis，however，stillsomewhatyoung，formsthebackground。{54}

Nearthisbuilding，onthesamehill，standsaroyalpalace，conspicuousforitsbrick-redcolour。Itisverylarge，andthetwowingsarefinishedbymassiveroundtowers。

Inthecentreofthecourtyard，behindthecastle，isplacedacolossalbustofGustavusI。，andafewpacesfromittwoartificialhillsserveasbastions，onwhichcannonsareplanted。Thisbeingthehighestpointofthetown，affordsthebestviewoverit，andoverthesurroundingcountry。

Thetownitselfisbuilthalfofwoodandhalfofstone，andisverypretty，beingcrossedbybroadstreets，andornamentedwithtastefullylaid-outgardens。Ithasonedisadvantage，whichisthedarkbrownish-redcolourofthehouses，whichhasapeculiarlysombreappearanceinthesettingsun。

Animmenseandfertileplain，diversifiedbydarkforestscontrastingwiththebrightgreenmeadowsandtheyellowstubble-

fields，surroundsthetown，andinthedistancethesilveryriverFyrisflowstowardsthesea。Forestsclosethedistantviewwiththeirdarkshadows。Isawbutfewvillages；theymay，however，havebeenhiddenbythetrees，forthattheyexistseemstobeindicatedbythewell-kepthighroadscrossingtheplaininalldirections。

BeforequittingmypositiononthebastionsoftheroyalpalaceI

castaglanceonthecastle-gardens，whichwerelyinglowerdownthehill，andareseparatedfromthecastlebyaroad；theydonotseemtobelarge，butareverypretty。

Ishouldhavewishedtobeabletovisitthebotanicgardennearthetown，whichwasthefavouriteresortofLinnaeus，whosesplendidly-

sculpturedbustissaidtobeitschiefornament；butthesunwassettingbehindthemountains，andIrepairedtomychamber，toprepareformyjourneytoDanemora。

September13th。

IleftUpsalaatfouro"clockinthemorning，toproceedtothefar-

famediron-minesofDanemora，upwardsofthirtymilesdistant，andwhereIwishedtoarrivebeforetwelve，astheblastingtakesplaceatthathour，afterwhichthepitsareclosed。AsIhadbeeninformedhowslowlytravellingisdoneinthiscountry，andhowtediousthedelaysarewhenthehorsesarechanged，Ideterminedtoallowtimeenoughforallinterruptions，andyetarriveattheappointedhour。

AfewmilesbehindUpsalaliesOldUpsala(GamlaUpsala)。Isawtheoldchurchandthegrave-hillsinpassing；threeofthelatterareremarkablylarge，theotherssmaller。Itispresumedthatthehigheronescoverthegravesofkings。IsawsimilartumuliduringmyjourneytoGreece，onthespotwhereTroyissaidtohavestood。

Thechurchisnothonouredasaruin；ithasyettodoservice；anditgrievedmetoseethevenerablebuildingproppedupandcoveredwithfreshmortaronmanyatime-wornspot。

HalfwaybetweenUpsalaandDanemorawepassedalargecastle，notdistinguishedforitsarchitecture，itssituation，oranythingelse。ThenwenearedtheriverFyris，andthelonglakeofDanemora；botharequiteovergrownwithreedsandgrass，andhaveflatuninterestingshores；indeedthewholejourneyofferslittlevariety，astheroadliesthroughaplain，onlydiversifiedbywoods，fields，andpiecesofrock。Theseareinterestingfeatures，becauseonecannotimaginehowtheycamethere，themountainsbeingatagreatdistance，andthesoilbynomeansrocky。

ThelittletownofDanemoraliesinthemidstofawood，andonlyconsistsofachurchandafewlargeandsmalldetachedhouses。Thevicinityoftheminesisindicatedbeforearrivingattheplacebyimmenseheapsofstones，whicharebroughtbyhorse-ginsfromthepits，andwhichcoveraconsiderablespace。

Ihadfortunatelyarrivedintimetoseetheblastings。Thoseinthegreatpitarethemostinteresting；foritsmouthissoverylarge，thatitisnotnecessarytodescendinordertoseethepit-

menwork；allisvisiblefromabove。Thisisaverypeculiarandinterestingsight。Thepit，480feetdeep，withitscolossaldoorsandentrancesleadingsintothegalleries，lookslikeapictureofthelowerworld，fromwhichbridgesofrocks，projections，archesandcavernsformedinthewalls，ascendtotheupperworld。Themenlooklikepigmies，andonecannotfollowtheirmovementsuntiltheeyehasaccustomeditselftothedepthandtothedarknessprevailingbelow。Butthedarknessisnotverydense；Icoulddistinguishmostoftheladders，whichseemedtomelikechildren"stoys。

Itwasnearlytwelve，andtheworkmenleftthepits，withtheexceptionofthoseinchargeofthemines。Theyascendedbymeansoflittletubshangingbyropes，andwereraisedbyawindlass。Itisaterriblesighttoseethemensoaringuponthelittlemachine，especiallywhentwoorthreeascendatonce；forthenonemanstandsinthecentre，whiletheothertworideontheedgeofthetub。

Ishouldhavelikedtodescendintothegreatpit，butitwastoolateonthisday，andIwouldnotwaitanother。Ishouldnothavefearedthedescent，asIwasfamiliarwithsuchadventures，havingexploredthesalt-minesofWieliczkaandBochnia，inGallicia，someyearsbefore，inwhichIhadhadtoletmyselfdownbyarope，whichisamuchmoredangerousmethodthanthetub。

Withthestrokeoftwelve，fourblastingtrainsinthelargepitwerefired。Themanwhosebusinessitwastoapplythematchranawayingreathaste，andshelteredhimselfbehindawallofrock。

Inafewmomentsthepowderflashed，somestonesfell，andthenafearfulcrashwasheardallaround，followedbytherollingandfallingoftheblastedmasses。Repeatedechoesannouncedthefearfulexplosionintheinteriorofthepits:thewholeleftaterribleimpressiononme。Scarcelyhadonemineceasedtorage，whenthesecondbegan，thenthethird，andsoon。Theseblastingstakeplacedailyindifferentmines。

Theotherpitsaredeeper，thedeepestbeing600feet；butthemouthsaresmaller，andtheshaftsnotperpendicular，sothattheeyeislostindarkness，whichisastillmoreunpleasantsensation。

Igazedwithoppressedchestintothedarkspace，vainlyendeavouringtodistinguishsomething。Ishouldnotliketobeaminer；Icouldnotendurelifewithoutthelightofday；andwhenI

turnedfromthedarkpits，Icastmyeyesthankfullyonthecheerfullandscapebaskinginthesun。

IreturnedtoUpsalaonthesameday，havingmadethislittlejourneybypost。Icanmerelynarratethefacts，withoutgivinganopiniononthegoodorbadconveniencesforlocomotion，asthiswasmoreapleasure-tripthanajourney。

AsIhadhirednocarriage，Ihadadifferentvehicleateverystation，andthesevehiclesconsistedofordinarytwo-wheeledwoodencarts。Myseatwasatrussofhaycoveredwiththehorse-cloth。Iftheroadshadnotbeensoextremelygood，thesecartswouldhaveshakenterribly；butasitwas，ImustsaythatIrodemorecomfortablythaninthecarriolsoftheNorwegians，althoughtheywerepaintedandvanished；forinthemIhadtobesqueezedinwithmyfeetstretchedout，andcouldnotchangemyposition。

Thestationsareunequal，——sometimeslong，sometimesshort。Thepost-horsesareprovidedhere，asinNorway，bywealthypeasants，calledDschns-peasants。Thesehavetocollectacertainnumberofhorseseveryeveningforforwardingthetravellersthenextmorning。

Ateverypost-houseabookiskept，inwhichthetravellercanseehowmanyhorsesthepeasanthas，howmanyhavealreadybeenhired，andhowmanyareleftinthestable。Hemusttheninscribehisname，thehourofhisdeparture，andthenumberofhorsesherequires。Bythisarrangementdeceptionandextortionareprevented，aseverythingisopen，andthepricesfixed。{55}

Patienceisalsorequiredhere，thoughnotsomuchasinNorway。I

hadalwaystowaitfromfifteentotwentyminutesbeforethecarriagewasbroughtandthehorsesandharnessprepared，butneverlonger；andImustadmitthattheSwedishpost-mastershurriedasmuchaspossible，andneverdemandeddoublefare，althoughtheymusthaveknownthatIwasinhaste。Thepaceofthehorsedependsonthewillofthecoachmanandthepowersofhissteed；butinnoothercountrydidIseesuchconsiderationpaidtothestrengthofthehorses。Itisquiteridiculoustoseewhatsmallloadsofcorn，bricks，orwood，areallottedtotwohorses，andhowslowlyandsleepilytheydrawtheirburdens。

Thenumberofwoodengates，whichdividetheroadsintoasmanypartsastherearecommongroundsonit，areaterriblenuisancetotravellers。Thecoachmanhasoftentodismountsixoreighttimesinanhourtoopenandclosethesegates。Iwastoldthatthesedelectablegatesevenexistonthegreathighroad，onlynotquiteinsuchprofusionasontheby-roads。

WoodmustbeasabundanthereasinNorway，foreverythingisenclosed；evenfieldswhichseemsobarrenasnottobeworththelabourorthewood。

ThevillagesthroughwhichIpassedweregenerallyprettyandcheerful，andIfoundthecottages，whichIenteredwhilethehorseswerechanged，neatlyandcomfortablyfurnished。

Thepeasantsofthisdistrictwearapeculiarcostume。Themen，andfrequentlyalsotheboys，wearlongdark-blueclothsurtouts，andclothcapsontheirheads；sothat，atadistance，theylooklikegentlemenintravellingdress。Itseemscurioustoaforeignertoseetheseapparentgentlemenfollowingtheploughorcuttinggrass。

Atanearerview，ofcoursetheaspectchanges，andtherentsanddirtappear，ortheleathernapronwornbeneaththecoat，likecarpentersinAustria，becomesvisible。Thefemalecostumewaspeculiaronlyinsofarthatitwaspoorandragged。IndressandshoestheNorwegianandSwedesarebehindtheIcelanders，buttheysurpasstheminthecomfortoftheirdwellings。

September14th。

To-dayIreturnedtoStockholmontheMalarsee，andtheweatherbeingmorefavourablethanonmyformerpassage，Icouldremainondeckthewholetime。IsawnowthatwesailedforseveralmilesontheriverFyris，whichflowsthroughwoodsandfieldsintothelake。

ThelargeplainonwhicholdandnewUpsalaliewassoonoutofsight，andafterpassingtwobridges，weturnedintotheMalar。Atfirsttherearenoislandsonitsflatexpanse，anditsshoresarestuddedwithlowtree-coveredhills；butwesoon，however，arrivedattheregionofislands，wherethepassagebecomesmoreinteresting，andthebeautyoftheshoresincreases。ThefirstfineviewwesawwastheprettyestateKrusenberg，whosecastleisromanticallysituatedonafertilehill。ButmuchmorebeautifulandsurprisingisthesplendidcastleofSkukloster，alarge，beautiful，andregularpile，ornamentedwithfourimmenseroundturretsatthefourcorners，andwithgardensstretchingdowntothewater"sedge。

Fromthisplacethesceneryisfullofbeautyandvariety；everymomentpresentsanotherandamorelovelyview。Sometimesthewatersexpand，sometimestheyarehemmedinbyislands，andbecomeasnarrowascanals。Iwasmostcharmedwiththosespotswheretheislandsliesoclosetogetherthatnooutletseemspossible，tillanotherturnshewsanopeningbetweenthem，withaglimpseofthelakebeyond。Thehillsontheshoresarehigher，andthepromontorieslarger，thefarthertheshipadvances；andtheislandsappeartobemerelyprojectionsofthecontinent，tillanearerapproachdispelstheillusion。

ThevillageofSixtunaliesinapicturesqueandcharminglittlevalley，filledwithruins，principallyofroundtowers，whicharesaidtobetheremainsoftheRomantownofSixtum；thenamebeingretainedbythenewtownwithaslightmodification。

Afterthisfollowcliffsandrocksrisingperpendicularlyfromthesea，andwhosevicinitywouldbebynomeansdesirableinastorm。

OfthecastleofRouseonlythreebeautifuldomesriseabovethetrees；afrowningbleakhillconcealstherestfromtheeye。Thencomesapalace，thepropertyofaprivateindividual，onlyremarkableforitssize。ThelastofthenotabilitiesistheRokebybridge，saidtobeoneofthelongestinSweden。ItunitesthefirmlandwiththeislandonwhichtheroyalcastleofDrottingholmstands。ThetownofStockholmnowbecomesvisible；weturnintotheportionofthelakeonwhichitlies，andarrivethereagainattwoo"clockintheafternoon。

FROMSTOCKHOLMTOTRAVEMUNDEANDHAMBURGH

IbadefarewelltoStockholmonthe18thSeptember，andembarkedinthesteamerSvithiold，of100-horsepower，attwelveo"clockatnoon，togotoTravemunde。

Fewpassagescanbemoreexpensivethanthisoneis。Thedistanceisfivehundredleagues，andthejourneygenerallyoccupiestwoandahalftothreedays；forthisthefare，withoutfood，isfourpounds。Thefoodisalsoexorbitantlydear；inadditiontowhichthecaptainisthepurveyor；sothatthereisnoappealforthegrossestextortionorinsufficiency。

Itpainedmemuchwhenoneofthepoorertravellers，whosufferedgreatlyfromsea-sickness，havingappliedforsomesouptothesteward，whoreferredhimtotheamiablecaptain，tohearhimdeclarehewouldmakenoexception，andthatabasinofsoupwouldbechargedthewholepriceofacompletedinner。Thepoormanwastodowithoutthesoup，ofwhichhestoodsomuchinneed，orscrapeeveryfarthingtogethertopayafewshillingsdailyforhisdinner。

Fortunatelyforhimsomebenevolentpersonsondeckpaidforhismeals。Someofthegentlemenbroughttheirownwinewiththem，forwhichtheyhadtopayasmuchdutytothecaptainasthewinewasworth。

Tothesepleasuresoftravellingmustbeaddedthefact，thataSwedishvesseldoesnotadvanceatalliftheweatherisunfavourable。Mostofthepassengersconsideredthattheengineswereinefficient。Howeverthismaybe，weweredelayedtwenty-fourhoursatthefirsthalfofourjourney，fromStockholmtoCalmar，althoughwehadonlyaslightbreezeagainstusandaratherhighsea，butnostorm。InCalmarwecastanchor，andwaitedformorefavourablewind。Severalgentlemen，whosebusinessinLubeckwaspressing，leftthesteamer，andcontinuedtheirjourneybyland。

AtfirsttheBalticverymuchresemblestheMalarsee；forislands，rocks，andavarietyofscenerymakeitinteresting。TotherightwesawtheimmenselylongwoodenbridgeofLindenborg，whichunitesoneofthelargerislandswiththecontinent。

AttheendofoneoftheturnsofthesealiesthetownofWachsholm；andoppositetoit，uponalittlerockyisland，asplendidfortresswithacolossalroundtower。Judgingbythenumberofcannonsplantedalongthewalls，thisfortressmustbeofgreatimportance。Afewhourslaterwepassedasimilarfortress，Friedrichsborg；itisnotinsuchanopensituationastheother，butismoresurroundedbyforests。Wepassedataconsiderabledistance，andcouldnotseemuchofit，norofthecastlelyingontheoppositeside，whichseemstobeverymagnificent，andisalsosurroundedbywoods。

Theboundariesoftherightshorenowdisappear，butthenagainappearasaterribleheapofnakedrocks，atwhoseextremeedgeissituatedthefinefortressDolero。Nearitgroupsofhousesarebuiltonthebarerocksprojectingintothesea，andformanextensivetown。

September19th。

To-daywewereontheopen，somewhatstormysea。TowardsnoonwearrivedattheCalmarSound，formedbytheflat，uniformshoresofthelongislandOlandontheleft，andontherightbySchmoland。

Infrontrosethemountain-islandtheJungfrau，towhicheverySwedepointswithself-satisfiedpride。Itsheightisonlyremarkablecomparedwiththeflatnessaround；besidetheproudgiant-mountainofthesamenameinSwitzerlanditwouldseemlikealittlehill。

September20th。

Onaccountofthecontrarywind，wehadcastanchorherelastnight，andthismorningcontinuedthejourneytoCalmar，wherewearrivedabouttwointheforenoon。Thetownissituatedonanimmenseplain，andisnotveryinteresting。Afewhoursmaybeagreeablyspenthereinvisitingthebeautifulchurchandtheantiquatedcastle，andwehadmorethanenoughleisureforit。Windandweatherseemedtohaveconspiredagainstus，andthecaptainannouncedanindefinitestayatthisplace。Atfirstwecouldnotland，asthewavesweretoohigh；butatlastoneofthelargerboatscamealongside，andthemorecuriousamongusventuredtorowtothelandintheunsteadyvessel。

Theexteriorofthechurchresemblesafineantiquatedcastlefromitsfourcornertowersandthelownessofitsdome，whichrisesverylittleabovethebuilding，andalsobecausetheotherturretshereandthereerectedforornamentarescarcelyperceptible。Theinteriorofthechurchisremarkableforitssize，itsheight，andaparticularlyfineecho。Thetonesoftheorganaresaidtoproduceamoststrikingeffect。Wesentfortheorganist，buthewasnowheretobefound；sowehadtocontentourselveswiththeechoofourownvoices。WewentfromthisplacetotheoldroyalcastlebuiltbyQueenMargaretinthesixteenthcentury。Thecastleissodilapidatedinsidethatatarryingintheupperchambersisscarcelyadvisable。Thelowerroomsofthecastlehavebeenrepaired，andareusedasprisons；andaswepassed，armswerestretchedforthfromsomeofthebarredwindows，andplaintivevoicesentreatedthepassers-bytobestowsometrifleuponthepoorinmates。Upwardsof140prisonersaresaidtobeconfinedhere。{56}

Aboutthreeo"clockintheafternoonthewindabated，andwecontinuedourjourney。Thepassageisveryuniform，andwesawonlyflat，bareshores；agroupoftreesevenwasararity。

September21st。

WhenIcameondeckthismorningtheSoundwasfarbehindus。Totheleftwehadtheopensea；ontheright，insteadofthebleakSchmoland，wehadthebleakerSchonen，whichwassobarren，thatwehardlysawapaltryfishing-villagebetweenthelowsterilehills。

Atnineo"clockinthemorningweanchoredintheportofYstadt。

Thetownispretty，andhasalargesquare，inwhichstandthehouseofthegovernor，thetheatre，andthetown-hall。Thestreetsarebroad，andthehousespartlyofwoodandpartlyofstone。Themostinterestingfeatureistheancientchurch，andinitamuch-damagedwoodenaltar-piece，whichiskeptinthevestry。Thoughthefiguresarecoarseanddisproportionate，onemustadmirethecompositionandthecarving。Thereliefsonthepulpit，andabeautifulmonumenttotherightofthealtar，alsodeserveadmiration。Theseareallcarvedinwood。

IntheafternoonwepassedtheDanishislandMalmo。

Atlast，afterhavingbeennearlyfourdaysontheseainsteadoftwodaysandahalf，wearrivedsafelyintheharbourofTravemundeonthe22dSeptemberattwoo"clockinthemorning。Andnowmysea-

journeyswereover；Ipartedsorrowfullyfromthesaltwaters，foritissodelightfultoseethewater"sexpanseallaround，andtraverseitsmirror-likesurface。Theseapresentsabeautifulpicture，evenwhenitstormsandrages，whenwavestoweruponwaves，andthreatentodashthevesseltopiecesortoengulfit——whentheshipalternatelydancesontheirpoints，orshootsintotheabyss；

andIfrequentlycreptforhoursinacorner，orheldfasttothesidesoftheship，andletthewavesdashoverme。Ihadovercometheterriblesea-sicknessduringmynumerousjourneys，andcouldthereforefreelyadmirethesefearfullybeautifulscenesofexcitednature，andadoreGodinHisgrandestworks。

Wehadscarcelycastanchorintheportwhenawholearrayofcoachmensurroundedus，volunteeringtodriveusoverlandtoHamburgh，ajourneyofthirty-sixmiles，whichittakeseighthourstoaccomplish。

Travemundeisaprettyspot，whichreallyconsistsofonlyonestreet，inwhichthemajorityofthehousesarehotels。ThecountryfromheretoLubeck，adistanceoftenmiles，isverypretty。A

splendidroad，onwhichthecarriagesrollsmoothlyalong，runsthroughacharmingwoodpastacemetery，whosebeautyexceedsthatofUpsala；butforthemonuments，onemighttakeitforoneofthemostsplendidparksorgardens。

IregrettednothingsomuchasbeingunabletospendadayinLubeck，forIfeltverymuchattractedbythisoldHansetown，withitspyramidically-builthouses，itsvenerabledome，andotherbeautifulchurches，itsspacioussquares，&c。；butIwasobligedtoproceed，andcouldonlygazeatandadmireitasIhurriedthrough。

ThepavementofthestreetsisbetterthanIhadseenitinanynortherntown；andonthestreets，infrontofthehouses，Isawmanywoodenbenches，onwhichtheinhabitantsprobablyspendtheirsummerevenings。Isawhereforthefirsttimeagainthegay-

lookingstreet-mirrorsusedinHamburgh。TheTrave，whichflowsbetweenTravemundeandLubeck，hastobecrossedbyboat。NearOldesloearethesalt-factories，withlargebuildingsandimmenselyhighchimneys；anoldromanticcastle，entirelysurroundedbywater，liesnearArensburg。

PastArensburgthecountrybeginstobeuninteresting，andremainssoasfarasHamburgh；butitseemstobeveryfertile，asthereisanabundanceofgreenfieldsandfinemeadows。

ThelittlejourneyfromLubecktoHamburghisratherdear，onaccountofthealmostincrediblenumberoftollsandduesthepoorcoachmenhavetopay。TheyhavefirsttoprocurealicensetodrivefromLubeckintoHamburghterritory，whichcostsabout1s。3d。；thenminehadtopaytwiceadoubletollof8d。，becausewepassedthroughbeforefiveo"clockinthemorning，andthegates，whicharenotopenedtillfiveo"clock，wereunfastenedespeciallyforus；

besidesthese，therewasapennytollonnearlyeverymile。

Thisdreadfulannoyanceoftheconstantstoppingandthetoll-barsisunknowninNorwayandinSweden。There，anannualtaxispaidforeveryhorse，andtheownercanthendrivefreelythroughthewholecountry，asnotoll-barsareerected。

Thefarm-houseshereareverylargeandfar-spread，butthereasonis，thatstable，barn，andshippenareunderthesameroof:thewallsofthehousesareofwoodfilledinwithbricks。

AfterpassingArensburg，wesawthesteeplesofWandsbeckandHamburghinthedistance；thetwotownsseemtobeone，andare，infact，onlyseparatedbyprettycountry-houses。ButWandsbeckcomparedtoHamburghisavillage，notatown。

IarrivedinHamburghabouttwoo"clockintheafternoon；andmyrelativesweresoastonishedatmyarrival，thattheyalmosttookmeforaghost。Iwasatfirststartledbytheirreception，butsoonunderstoodthereasonofit。

AtthetimeIleftIcelandanothervesselwenttoAltona，bywhichI

sentaboxofmineralsandcuriositiestomycousininHamburgh。

ThesailorwhobroughttheboxgavesuchadescriptionofthewretchedvesselinwhichIhadgonetoCopenhagen，that，afterhavingheardnothingofmefortwomonths，hethoughtImusthavegonetothebottomoftheseawiththeship。IhadindeedwrittenfromCopenhagen，buttheletterhadbeenlost；andhencetheirsurpriseanddelightatmyarrival。

CHAPTERXI

Ihadnotmuchtimetospare，sothatIcouldonlystayafewdayswithmyrelativesinHamburgh；onthe26thSeptember，IwentinalittlesteamerfromHamburghtoHarburg，wherewearrivedinthreequartersofanhour。FromthenceIproceededinastage-carriagetoCelle，aboutsixty-fivemiles。

Thecountryisnotveryinteresting；itconsistsforthemostpartofplains，whichdegenerateintoheathsandmarshes；butthereareafewfertilespotspeepingouthereandthere。

September27th。

WearrivedatCelleinthenight。FromheretoLehrte，adistanceofaboutsevenmiles，Ihadtohireaprivateconveyance，butfromLehrtetherailwaygoesdirecttoBerlin。{57}Manylargerandsmallertownsarepassedonthisroad；butwesawlittleofthem，asthestationsalllieatsomedistance，andtherailway-trainonlystopsafewminutes。

ThefirsttownwepassedwasBrunswick。Immediatelybeyondthetownliestheprettyducalpalace，builtintheGothicstyle，inthecentreofafinepark。Wolfenbuttelseemstobeaconsiderabletown，judgingbythequantityofhousesandchurch-steeples。A

prettywoodenbridge，withanelegantly-madeironbalustrade，isbuilthereacrosstheOcker。Fromthetown，abeautifullaneleadstoagentlehill，onwhosetopstandsalovelybuilding，usedasacoffee-house。

AssoonasonehaspassedtheHanoveriandomainsthecountry，thoughitisnotricherinnaturalcuriosities，islessabundantinmarshesandheaths，andisverywell-cultivatedland。Manyvillagesarespreadaround，andmanyacharmingtownexcitesthewishtotravelthroughataslowerpace。

WepassedSchepenstadt，Jersheim，andWegersleben，whichlattertownalreadybelongstoPrussia。InAsherslebenandinMagdeburgwechangedcarriages。NearSalzewesawsomefinebuildingswhichbelongtotheextensivesaltworksexistinghere。JernaudauisacolonyofMoravians。IshouldhavewishedtovisitthetownofKotten，——fornothingcanbemorecharmingthanthesituationofthetowninthemidstoffragrantgardens，——butweunfortunatelyonlystoppedthereafewminutes。ThetownofDessauisalsosurroundedbyprettyscenery:severalbridgescrossthevariousarmsoftheElbe；thatovertheriveritselfrestsonsolidstonecolumns。OfWittenbergweonlysawhousetopsandchurch-steeples；thesameofJuterbog，whichlooksasifitwerenewlybuilt。NearLukewaldetheregionsofsandbegin，andtheuniformityisonlybrokenbyalittleridgeofwoodedhillsnearTrebbin；butwhenthesearepast，therailwaypassesontoBerlinthroughamelancholy，unmitigateddesertofsand。

Ihadtravelledfromsixo"clockthismorninguntilsevenintheevening，overadistanceofabouttwohundredandtwentymiles，duringwhichtimewehadfrequentlychangedcarriages。

Thenumberofpassengerswehadtakenupontheroadwasverygreat，onaccountoftheLeipzicfairs；sometimesthetrainhadthirty-fivetofortycarriages，threelocomotives，andseventoeighthundredpassengers；andyetthegreatestorderhadprevailed。ItisagreatconveniencethatonecantakeaticketfromLehrtetoBerlin，althoughtherailwaypassesthroughsomanydifferentstates，becausethenoneneedsnotlookaftertheluggageoranythingelse。

Theofficialsontherailwayareallverycivil。Assoonasthetrainstopped，theguardsannouncedwithaloudvoicethetimeallowed，howeverlongorshortitmightbe；sothatthepassengerscouldactaccordingly，andtakerefreshmentsintheneighbouringhotels。Thearrangementsforalightingareveryconvenient:thecarriagesrunintodeeprailsatthestations，sothatthegroundislevelwiththecarriages，andtheentranceandexiteasy。Thecarriagesarelikebroadcoaches；twoseatsranbreadthwiseacrossthem，withalargedoorateachside。Thefirstandsecondclasscontaineightpersonsineachdivision，thethirdclassten。Thecarriagesareallnumbered，sothateverypassengercaneasilyfindhisseat。

Bythesesimplearrangementsthetravellermaydescendandwalkaboutalittle，eventhoughthetrainshouldonlystoptwominutes，orevenpurchasesomerefreshments，withoutanyconfusionorcrowding。

Theseconveniencesare，ofcourse，impossiblewhenthecarriageshavethelengthofahouse，andcontainsixtyorseventypersonswithinlockeddoors，andwherethedoorsareopenedbytheguards，whoonlycalloutthenameofthestationwithoutannouncinghowlongthestayis。Insuchrailwaysitisnotadvisablefortravellerstoleavetheirseats；forbeforetheycanpassfromoneendofthecarriagetotheother，throughthenarrowdooranddownthesteepsteps，thehornissounded，andatthesametimethetrainmoveson；thesoundbeingthesignalfortheengine-driver，thepassengershavingnone。

Inthesestatestherewasalsonottheleasttroublewiththepassportandtheintolerablepass-tickets。Noofficiouspolice-

soldiercomestothecarriage，andpreventsthepassengersalightingbeforetheyhaveansweredallhisquestions。Ifpassportshadtobeinspectedonthisjourney，itwouldtakeafewdays，fortheymustalwaysbetakentothepassport-office，astheyareneverexaminedonthespot。

Suchannoyinginterruptionsoftenoccurseveraltimesinthesamestate。Andoneneednotevencomefromabroadtoexperiencethem，asajourneyfromaprovincialtoacapitaltownaffordsenoughscopeforannoyance。

IhadnoreasontocomplainofsuchannoyancesinanyofthecountriesthroughwhichIhadhithertopassed。Mypassportwasonlydemandedinmyhotelinthecapitalsofthecountries，ifIintendedtoremainseveraldays。InStockholm，however，Ifoundacuriousarrangement；everyforeignerthereisobligedtoprocureaSwedishpassport，andpayhalf-a-crownforit，ifheonlyremainsafewhoursinthetown。Thisis，inreality，onlyapolitewayoftakinghalf-a-crownfromthestrangers，astheyprobablydonotliketochargesomuchforasimplevise!

STAYINBERLIN——RETURNTOVIENNA

IhaveneverseenatownmorebeautifullyorregularlybuiltthanBerlin，——Imean，thetownofBerlinitself，——onlythefineststreets，palaces，andsquaresofCopenhagenwouldbearacomparisonwithit。

Ispentbutafewdayshere，andhadthereforescarcelytimetoseethemostremarkableandinterestingsights。

Thesplendidroyalpalace，theextensivebuildingsforthepicture-

galleryandmuseums，thegreatdome——allthesearesituatedveryneareachother。

TheDomechurchislargeandregularlybuilt；achapel，surroundedbyanironenclosure，standsateachsideoftheentrance。Severalkingsareburiedhere，andantiquatedsarcophagicovertheirremains，knownasthekings"graves。Nearthemstandsafinecast-

ironmonument，beneathwhichCountBrandenburglies。

TheCatholicchurchisbuiltinthestyleoftheRotundainRome；

but，unlikeit，thelightfallsfromwindowsmadearoundthewalls，andnotfromabove。Beautifulstatuesandasimplebuttastefulaltararetheonlyornamentsofthischurch。Theporticoisornamentedbybeautifulreliefs。

TheWerderchurchisamodernerection，builtintheGothicstyle，anditsturretsareornamentedbybeautifulbronzereliefs。Thewallsinsideareinlaidwithcolouredwooduptothegalleries，wheretheyterminateinGothicscroll-work。Theorganhasafull，cleartone；infrontofitstandsapaintingwhich，atfirstsight，resemblesascenefromheathenmythologymorethanasacredsubject。

Anumberofcupidssoaramongwreathsofflowers，andsurroundthreebeautifulfemalefigures。

Themintandthearchitecturalcollegestandnearthischurch。Theformeriscoveredwithfinesculptures；thelatterissquare，ofabrick-redcolour，withoutanyarchitecturalembellishment，andperfectlyresemblinganunusuallylargeprivatehouse。Theground-

flooristurnedintofineshops。

NearthepalaceliestheOperaSquare，inwhichstandthecelebratedopera-house，thearsenal，theuniversity，thelibrary，theacademy，theguardhouse，andseveralroyalpalaces。Threestatuesornamentthesquare:thoseofGeneralCountBulov，GeneralCountScharnhorst，andGeneralPrinceBlucher。Theyareallthreebeautifullysculptured，butthedraperydidnotpleaseme；itconsistedofthelongmilitaryclothcloak，which，openinginfront，affordedaglimpseofthesplendiduniforms。

ThearsenalisoneofthefinestbuildingsinBerlin，andformsasquare；atthetimeofmystaysomerepairswerebeingmade，sothatitwasclosed。Ihadtobecontentwithglimpsesthroughthewindowsofthefirstfloor，whichshowedmeimmensesaloonsfilledbytremendouscannons，rangedinrows。

Theguardhouseiscontiguous，andresemblesaprettytemple，withitsporticoofcolumns。

Theopera-houseformsalongdetachedsquare。Itwouldhaveamuchbettereffectiftheentranceswerenotsowretched。Theoneatthegrandportallookslikeanarrow，miserablechurch-door，lowandgloomy。Theotherentrancesareworsestill，andonewouldnotsupposethattheycouldleadtosuchasplendidinterior，whoseappointmentsareindescribablyluxuriousandcommodious。Thepitisfilledbyrowsofcomfortably-cushionedchairswithcushionedbacks，numbered，butnotbarred。Theboxesaredividedbyverylowpartitions，sothatthearistocraticworldseemstositonatribune。Theseatsinthepitandthefirstandsecondtiersarecoveredwithdark-redsilkdamask；theroyalboxisasplendidsaloon，thefloorofwhichiscoveredwiththefinestcarpets。

Beautifuloil-paintings，intastefulgoldframes，ornamenttheplafond；butthemagnificentchandelieristhegreatestcuriosity。

Itlookssomassivelyworkedinbronze，thatitispainfultoseetheheavymasshangsolooselyovertheheadsofthespectators。

Butitisonlyadelusion；foritismadeofpaste-board，andbronzedover。Innumerablelampslighttheplace；butonethingwhichImissinsuchelegantmoderntheatresisaclock，whichhasaplaceinnearlyeveryItaliantheatre。

Theotherbuildingsonthissquarearealsodistinguishedfortheirsizeandthebeautyoftheirarchitecture。

Anunusuallybroadstonebridge，withafinely-madeironbalustrade，isbuiltoveralittlearmoftheSpree，andunitesthesquareoftheoperawiththatonwhichthepalacestands。

Theroyalmuseumisoneofthefinestarchitecturalpiles，anditshighportaliscoveredwithbeautifulfrescoes。Thepicture-gallerycontainsmanychefs-d"oeuvre；andIregrettedthatIhadnotmoretimetoexamineitandthehallofantiquities，havingonlythreehoursforthetwo。

Fromtheacademyrunsalongstreetlinedwithlime-trees，andwhichisthereforecalledUnder-the-limes(unterdenLinden)。ThisalleyformsacheerfulwalktotheBrandenburg-gate，beyondwhichthepleasure-gardensaresituated。Thelongestandfineststreetswhichrunintothelime-alleyaretheFriedrichsStreetandtheWilhelmsStreet。TheLeipzigerStreetalsobelongstothefinest，butdoesnotrunintothispromenade。

TheGens-d"armeSquareisdistinguishedbytheFrenchandGermanchurches，atleastbytheirexterior，——bytheirhighdomes，columns，andporticoes。Theinteriorsaresmallandinsignificant。Onthissquarestandsalsotheroyaltheatre，atastefulpileofgreatbeauty，withmanypillars，andstatuesofmusesanddeities。

Iascendedthetoweronwhichthetelegraphworks，onaccountoftheviewoverthetownandtheflatneighbourhood。Averycivilofficialwaspoliteenoughtoexplainthesignsofthetelegraphtome，andtopermitmetolookattheothertelegraphsthroughhistelescope。

TheKonigstadt，situatedontheoppositeshoreoftheSpree，notfarfromtheroyalpalace，containsnothingremarkable。Itschiefstreet，theKonigsstrasse，islong，butnarrowanddirty。IndeeditformsagreatcontrasttothetownofBerlinineverything；thestreetsarenarrow，short，andwinding。Thepost-officeandthetheatresarethemostremarkablebuildings。

Theluxurydisplayedintheshop-windowsisverygreat。Manyamirrorandmanyaplate-glasswindowremindedmeofHamburgh"ssplendour，whichsurpassesthatofBerlinconsiderably。

TherearenotmanyexcursionsroundBerlin，asthecountryisflatandsandy。Themostinterestingaretothepleasure-gardens，Charlottenburg，and，sincetheopeningoftherailway，toPotsdam。

Theparkorpleasure-gardenisoutsidetheBrandenburg-gate；itisdividedintoseveralparts，oneofwhichremindedmeofourfinePraterinVienna。Thebeautifulalleyswerefilledwithcarriages，riders，andpedestrians；prettycoffee-housesenlivenedthewoodyportions，andmerrychildrengambolledonthegreenlawns。IfeltsomuchremindedofmybelovedPrater，thatIexpectedeverymomenttoseeawell-knownface，orreceiveafriendlygreeting。Kroll"sCasino，sometimescalledtheWinter-garden，isbuiltonthissideofthepark。Idonotknowhowtodescribethisbuilding；itisquiteafairypalace。Allthesplendourwhichfancycaninventinfurniture，gilding，painting，ortapestry，ishereunitedinthesplendidhalls，saloons，temples，galleries，andboxes。Thedining-

room，whichwilldine1800persons，isnotlightedbywindows，butbyaglassroofvaultedoverit。Rowsofpillarssupportthegalleries，orseparatethelargerandsmallersaloons。Intheniches，andinthecorners，roundthepillars，aboundfragrantflowers，andplantsinchastevasesorpots，whichtransformthisplaceintoamagicalgardeninwinter。ConcertsandreunionstakeplacehereeverySunday，andthepressofvisitorsisextraordinary，althoughsmokingisprohibited。Thisplacewillaccommodate5000

persons。

ThatsideoftheparkwhichliesinthedirectionofthePotsdam-

gateresemblesanornamentalgarden，withitswell-keptalleys，flower-beds，terraces，islets，andgold-fishponds。AhandsomemonumenttothememoryofQueenLouiseiserectedontheLouiseislandhere。

Onthisside，thecoffee-houseOdeonisthebest，butcannotbecomparedtoKroll"scasino。Herealsoarerowsofveryelegantcountry-houses，mostofwhicharebuiltintheItalianstyle。

CHARLOTTENBURG***DPPROOFEDANDCORRECTEDTOHERE***

Thisplaceisabouthalfanhour"sdistancefromtheBrandenburg-

gate，wheretheomnibusesthatdeparteveryminutearestationed。

Theroadleadsthroughthepark，beyondwhichliesaprettyvillage，andadjoiningitistheroyalcountry-palaceofCharlottenburg。Thepalaceisbuiltintwostories，ofwhichtheupperoneisverylow，andisprobablyonlyusedforthedomestics。Thepalaceismorebroadthandeep；theroofisterrace-shaped，andinitscentrerisesaprettydome。Thegardenissimple，andnotverylarge，butcontainsaconsiderableorangery。Inadarkgrovestandsalittlebuilding，themausoleuminwhichtheimageofQueenLouisehasbeenexcellentlyexecutedbythefamedartistRauch。Herealsoresttheashesofthelateking。Thereisalsoanislandwithstatuesinthemidstofalargepond，onwhichsomeswansfloatproudly。Itisapitythatdirtdoesnotsticktothesewhite-featheredanimals，elsetheywouldsoonbeblackswans；forthepondorriversurroundingtheislandisoneofthedirtiestditchesIhaveeverseen。

Fatiguewouldbeveryintolerableinthispark，forthereareveryfewbenches，butanimmensequantityofgnats。

POTSDAM。

ThedistancefromBerlintoPotsdamiseighteenmiles，whichispassedbytherailroadinthree-quartersofanhour。Therailwayisveryconvenientlyarranged；thecarriagesaremarkedwiththenamesofthestation，andthetravellerentersthecarriageonwhichtheplaceofhisdestinationismarked。Thus，thepassengersareneverannoyedbytheentranceorexitofpassengers，asalloccupyingthesamecarriagedescendatthesametime。

Theroadisveryuninteresting；butthisiscompensatedforbyPotsdamitself，forwhichadayisscarcelysufficient。

ImmediatelyinfrontofthetownflowstheriverHavel，crossedbyalong，beautifulbridge，whosepillarsareofstone，andtherestofthebridgeofiron。Thelargeroyalpalaceliesontheoppositeshore，andissurroundedbyagarden。Thegardenisnotveryextensive，butlargeenoughforthetown，andisopentothepublic。