第8章

Fortunatelyforus-wehavingnodesiretobekepthangingaboutcoroners"courts-somemenonthebankhadseenthebodytoo，andnowtookchargeofitfromus。

Wefoundoutthewoman"sstoryafterwards。Ofcourseitwastheold，oldvulgartragedy。Shehadlovedandbeendeceived-orhaddeceivedherself。Anyhow，shehadsinned-someofusdonowandthen-andherfamilyandfriends，naturallyshockedandindignant，hadclosedtheirdoorsagainsther。

Lefttofighttheworldalone，withthemillstoneofhershamearoundherneck，shehadsunkeverlowerandlower。Forawhileshehadkeptbothherselfandthechildonthetwelveshillingsaweekthattwelvehours"

drudgeryadayprocuredher，payingsixshillingsoutofitforthechild，andkeepingherownbodyandsoultogetherontheremainder。

Sixshillingsaweekdoesnotkeepbodyandsoultogetherveryunitedly。

Theywanttogetawayfromeachotherwhenthereisonlysuchaveryslightbondasthatbetweenthem；andoneday，Isuppose，thepainandthedullmonotonyofitallhadstoodbeforehereyesplainerthanusual，andthemockingspectrehadfrightenedher。Shehadmadeonelastappealtofriends，but，againstthechillwalloftheirrespectability，thevoiceoftheerringoutcastfellunheeded；andthenshehadgonetoseeherchild-hadhelditinherarmsandkissedit，inaweary，dullsortofway，andwithoutbetrayinganyparticularemotionofanykind，andhadleftit，afterputtingintoitshandapennyboxofchocolateshehadboughtit，andafterwards，withherlastfewshillings，hadtakenaticketandcomedowntoGoring。

ItseemedthatthebitterestthoughtsofherlifemusthavecentredaboutthewoodedreachesandthebrightgreenmeadowsaroundGoring；butwomenstrangelyhugtheknifethatstabsthem，and，perhaps，amidstthegall，theremayhavemingledalsosunnymemoriesofsweetesthours，spentuponthoseshadoweddeepsoverwhichthegreattreesbendtheirbranchesdownsolow。

Shehadwanderedaboutthewoodsbytheriver"sbrinkallday，andthen，wheneveningfellandthegreytwilightspreaditsduskyrobeuponthewaters，shestretchedherarmsouttothesilentriverthathadknownhersorrowandherjoy。Andtheoldriverhadtakenherintoitsgentlearms，andhadlaidherwearyheaduponitsbosom，andhadhushedawaythepain。

Thushadshesinnedinallthings-sinnedinlivingandindying。Godhelpher！andallothersinners，ifanymoretherebe。

GoringontheleftbankandStreatleyontherightarebothoreithercharmingplacestostayatforafewdays。ThereachesdowntoPangbournewoooneforasunnysailorforamoonlightrow，andthecountryroundaboutisfullofbeauty。WehadintendedtopushontoWallingfordthatday，butthesweetsmilingfaceoftheriverhereluredustolingerforawhile；andsoweleftourboatatthebridge，andwentupintoStreatley，andlunchedatthe"Bull，"muchtoMontmorency"ssatisfaction。

TheysaythatthehillsoneachrideofthestreamhereoncejoinedandformedabarrieracrosswhatisnowtheThames，andthatthentheriverendedthereaboveGoringinonevastlake。Iamnotinapositioneithertocontradictoraffirmthisstatement。Isimplyofferit。

Itisanancientplace，Streatley，datingback，likemostriver-sidetownsandvillages，toBritishandSaxontimes。GoringisnotnearlysoprettyalittlespottostopatasStreatley，ifyouhaveyourchoice；

butitispassingfairenoughinitsway，andisnearertherailwayincaseyouwanttoslipoffwithoutpayingyourhotelbill。

CHAPTERXVII。

WASHINGDAY-FISHANDFISHERS-ONTHEARTOFANGLING-A

CONSCIENTIOUSFLY-FISHER-AFISHYSTORY。

WEstayedtwodaysatStreatley，andgotourclotheswashed。Wehadtriedwashingthemourselves，intheriver，underGeorge"ssuperintendence，andithadbeenafailure。Indeed，ithadbeenmorethanafailure，becausewewereworseoffafterwehadwashedourclothesthanwewerebefore。Beforewehadwashedthem，theyhadbeenvery，verydirty，itistrue；buttheywerejustwearable。AFTERwehadwashedthem-well，theriverbetweenReadingandHenleywasmuchcleaner，afterwehadwashedourclothesinit，thanitwasbefore。AllthedirtcontainedintheriverbetweenReadingandHenley，wecollected，duringthatwash，andworkeditintoourclothes。

ThewasherwomanatStreatleysaidshefeltsheowedittoherselftochargeusjustthreetimestheusualpricesforthatwash。Shesaidithadnotbeenlikewashing，ithadbeenmoreinthenatureofexcavating。

Wepaidthebillwithoutamurmur。

TheneighbourhoodofStreatleyandGoringisagreatfishingcentre。

Thereissomeexcellentfishingtobehadhere。Theriveraboundsinpike，roach，dace，gudgeon，andeels，justhere；andyoucansitandfishforthemallday。

Somepeopledo。Theynevercatchthem。Ineverknewanybodycatchanything，uptheThames，exceptminnowsanddeadcats，butthathasnothingtodo，ofcourse，withfishing！Thelocalfisherman"sguidedoesn"tsayawordaboutcatchinganything。Allitsaysistheplaceis"agoodstationforfishing；"and，fromwhatIhaveseenofthedistrict，Iamquitepreparedtobearoutthisstatement。

Thereisnospotintheworldwhereyoucangetmorefishing，orwhereyoucanfishforalongerperiod。Somefishermencomehereandfishforaday，andothersstopandfishforamonth。Youcanhangonandfishforayear，ifyouwantto：itwillbeallthesame。

TheANGLER"SGUIDETOTHETHAMESsaysthat"jackandpercharealsotobehadabouthere，"buttheretheANGLER"SGUIDEiswrong。JackandperchmayBEaboutthere。Indeed，Iknowforafactthattheyare。YoucanSEEthemthereinshoals，whenyouareoutforawalkalongthebanks：

theycomeandstandhalfoutofthewaterwiththeirmouthsopenforbiscuits。And，ifyougoforabathe，theycrowdround，andgetinyourway，andirritateyou。Buttheyarenottobe"had"byabitofwormontheendofahook，noranythinglikeit-notthey！

Iamnotagoodfishermanmyself。Idevotedaconsiderableamountofattentiontothesubjectatonetime，andwasgettingon，asIthought，fairlywell；buttheoldhandstoldmethatIshouldneverbeanyrealgoodatit，andadvisedmetogiveitup。TheysaidthatIwasanextremelyneatthrower，andthatIseemedtohaveplentyofgumptionforthething，andquiteenoughconstitutionallaziness。ButtheyweresureIshouldnevermakeanythingofafisherman。Ihadnotgotsufficientimagination。

Theysaidthatasapoet，orashillingshocker，orareporter，oranythingofthatkind，Imightbesatisfactory，butthat，togainanypositionasaThamesangler，wouldrequiremoreplayoffancy，morepowerofinventionthanIappearedtopossess。

Somepeopleareundertheimpressionthatallthatisrequiredtomakeagoodfishermanistheabilitytotelllieseasilyandwithoutblushing；

butthisisamistake。Merebaldfabricationisuseless；theveriesttyrocanmanagethat。Itisinthecircumstantialdetail，theembellishingtouchesofprobability，thegeneralairofscrupulous-

almostofpedantic-veracity，thattheexperiencedanglerisseen。

Anybodycancomeinandsay，"Oh，Icaughtfifteendozenperchyesterdayevening；"or"LastMondayIlandedagudgeon，weighingeighteenpounds，andmeasuringthreefeetfromthetiptothetail。"

Thereisnoart，noskill，requiredforthatsortofthing。Itshowspluck，butthatisall。

No；youraccomplishedanglerwouldscorntotellalie，thatway。Hismethodisastudyinitself。

Hecomesinquietlywithhishaton，appropriatesthemostcomfortablechair，lightshispipe，andcommencestopuffinsilence。Heletstheyoungstersbragawayforawhile，andthen，duringamomentarylull，heremovesthepipefromhismouth，andremarks，asheknockstheashesoutagainstthebars：

"Well，IhadahaulonTuesdayeveningthatit"snotmuchgoodmytellinganybodyabout。"

"Oh！why"sthat？"theyask。

"BecauseIdon"texpectanybodywouldbelievemeifIdid，"repliestheoldfellowcalmly，andwithoutevenatingeofbitternessinhistone，asherefillshispipe，andrequeststhelandlordtobringhimthreeofScotch，cold。

Thereisapauseafterthis，nobodyfeelingsufficientlysureofhimselftocontradicttheoldgentleman。Sohehastogoonbyhimselfwithoutanyencouragement。

"No，"hecontinuesthoughtfully；"Ishouldn"tbelieveitmyselfifanybodytoldittome，butit"safact，forallthat。Ihadbeensittingtherealltheafternoonandhadcaughtliterallynothing-exceptafewdozendaceandascoreofjack；andIwasjustaboutgivingitupasabadjobwhenIsuddenlyfeltarathersmartpullattheline。Ithoughtitwasanotherlittleone，andIwenttojerkitup。Hangme，ifIcouldmovetherod！Ittookmehalf-an-hour-half-an-hour，sir！-tolandthatfish；andeverymomentIthoughtthelinewasgoingtosnap！I

reachedhimatlast，andwhatdoyouthinkitwas？Asturgeon！afortypoundsturgeon！takenonaline，sir！Yes，youmaywelllooksurprised-

I"llhaveanotherthreeofScotch，landlord，please。"

Andthenhegoesontotelloftheastonishmentofeverybodywhosawit；

andwhathiswifesaid，whenhegothome，andofwhatJoeBugglesthoughtaboutit。

Iaskedthelandlordofaninnuptheriveronce，ifitdidnotinjurehim，sometimes，listeningtothetalesthatthefishermenabouttheretoldhim；andhesaid：

"Oh，no；notnow，sir。Itdidusedtoknockmeoverabitatfirst，but，lorloveyou！meandthemissuswelistensto`emalldaynow。It"swhatyou"reusedto，youknow。It"swhatyou"reusedto。"

Iknewayoungmanonce，hewasamostconscientiousfellow，and，whenhetooktofly-fishing，hedeterminednevertoexaggeratehishaulsbymorethantwenty-fivepercent。

"WhenIhavecaughtfortyfish，"saidhe，"thenIwilltellpeoplethatI

havecaughtfifty，andsoon。ButIwillnotlieanymorethanthat，becauseitissinfultolie。"

Butthetwenty-fivepercent。plandidnotworkwellatall。Heneverwasabletouseit。Thegreatestnumberoffishheevercaughtinonedaywasthree，andyoucan"taddtwenty-fivepercent。tothree-atleast，notinfish。

Soheincreasedhispercentagetothirty-three-and-a-third；butthat，again，wasawkward，whenhehadonlycaughtoneortwo；so，tosimplifymatters，hemadeuphismindtojustdoublethequantity。

Hestucktothisarrangementforacoupleofmonths，andthenhegrewdissatisfiedwithit。Nobodybelievedhimwhenhetoldthemthatheonlydoubled，andhe，therefore，gainednocreditthatwaywhatever，whilehismoderationputhimatadisadvantageamongtheotheranglers。Whenhehadreallycaughtthreesmallfish，andsaidhehadcaughtsix，itusedtomakehimquitejealoustohearaman，whomheknewforafacthadonlycaughtone，goingabouttellingpeoplehehadlandedtwodozen。

So，eventually，hemadeonefinalarrangementwithhimself，whichhehasreligiouslyheldtoeversince，andthatwastocounteachfishthathecaughtasten，andtoassumetentobeginwith。Forexample，ifhedidnotcatchanyfishatall，thenhesaidhehadcaughttenfish-youcouldnevercatchlessthantenfishbyhissystem；thatwasthefoundationofit。Then，ifbyanychancehereallydidcatchonefish，hecalledittwenty，whiletwofishwouldcountthirty，threeforty，andsoon。

Itisasimpleandeasilyworkedplan，andtherehasbeensometalklatelyofitsbeingmadeuseofbytheanglingfraternityingeneral。

Indeed，theCommitteeoftheThamesAngler"sAssociationdidrecommenditsadoptionabouttwoyearsago，butsomeoftheoldermembersopposedit。Theysaidtheywouldconsidertheideaifthenumberweredoubled，andeachfishcountedastwenty。

Ifeveryouhaveaneveningtospare，uptheriver，Ishouldadviseyoutodropintooneofthelittlevillageinns，andtakeaseatinthetap-

room。Youwillbenearlysuretomeetoneortwooldrod-men，sippingtheirtoddythere，andtheywilltellyouenoughfishystories，inhalfanhour，togiveyouindigestionforamonth。

GeorgeandI-Idon"tknowwhathadbecomeofHarris；hehadgoneoutandhadashave，earlyintheafternoon，andhadthencomebackandspentfullfortyminutesinpipeclayinghisshoes，wehadnotseenhimsince-

GeorgeandI，therefore，andthedog，lefttoourselves，wentforawalktoWallingfordonthesecondevening，and，cominghome，wecalledinatalittleriver-sideinn，forarest，andotherthings。

Wewentintotheparlourandsatdown。Therewasanoldfellowthere，smokingalongclaypipe，andwenaturallybeganchatting。

Hetoldusthatithadbeenafinedayto-day，andwetoldhimthatithadbeenafinedayyesterday，andthenwealltoldeachotherthatwethoughtitwouldbeafinedayto-morrow；andGeorgesaidthecropsseemedtobecomingupnicely。

Afterthatitcameout，somehoworother，thatwewerestrangersintheneighbourhood，andthatweweregoingawaythenextmorning。

Thenapauseensuedintheconversation，duringwhichoureyeswanderedroundtheroom。Theyfinallyresteduponadustyoldglass-case，fixedveryhighupabovethechimney-piece，andcontainingatrout。Itratherfascinatedme，thattrout；itwassuchamonstrousfish。Infact，atfirstglance，Ithoughtitwasacod。

"Ah！"saidtheoldgentleman，followingthedirectionofmygaze，"finefellowthat，ain"the？"

"Quiteuncommon，"Imurmured；andGeorgeaskedtheoldmanhowmuchhethoughtitweighed。

"Eighteenpoundssixounces，"saidourfriend，risingandtakingdownhiscoat。"Yes，"hecontinued，"itwursixteenyearago，comethethirdo"

nextmonth，thatIlandedhim。Icaughthimjustbelowthebridgewithaminnow。Theytoldmehewurintheriver，andIsaidI"dhavehim，andsoIdid。Youdon"tseemanyfishthatsizeaboutherenow，I"mthinking。Good-night，gentlemen，good-night。"

Andouthewent，andleftusalone。

Wecouldnottakeoureyesoffthefishafterthat。Itreallywasaremarkablyfinefish。Wewerestilllookingatit，whenthelocalcarrier，whohadjuststoppedattheinn，cametothedooroftheroomwithapotofbeerinhishand，andhealsolookedatthefish。

"Good-sizedtrout，that，"saidGeorge，turningroundtohim。

"Ah！youmaywellsaythat，sir，"repliedtheman；andthen，afterapullathisbeer，headded，"Maybeyouwasn"there，sir，whenthatfishwascaught？"

"No，"wetoldhim。Wewerestrangersintheneighbourhood。

"Ah！"saidthecarrier，"then，ofcourse，howshouldyou？ItwasnearlyfiveyearsagothatIcaughtthattrout。"

"Oh！wasityouwhocaughtit，then？"saidI。

"Yes，sir，"repliedthegenialoldfellow。"Icaughthimjustbelowthelock-leastways，whatwasthelockthen-oneFridayafternoon；andtheremarkablethingaboutitisthatIcaughthimwithafly。I"dgoneoutpikefishing，blessyou，neverthinkingofatrout，andwhenIsawthatwhopperontheendofmyline，blestifitdidn"tquitetakemeaback。

Well，yousee，heweighedtwenty-sixpound。Good-night，gentlemen，good-

night。"

Fiveminutesafterwards，athirdmancamein，anddescribedhowhehadcaughtitearlyonemorning，withbleak；andthenheleft，andastolid，solemn-looking，middle-agedindividualcamein，andsatdownoverbythewindow。

Noneofusspokeforawhile；but，atlength，Georgeturnedtothenewcomer，andsaid：

"Ibegyourpardon，Ihopeyouwillforgivethelibertythatwe-perfectstrangersintheneighbourhood-aretaking，butmyfriendhereandmyselfwouldbesomuchobligedifyouwouldtellushowyoucaughtthattroutupthere。"

"Why，whotoldyouIcaughtthattrout！"wasthesurprisedquery。

Wesaidthatnobodyhadtoldusso，butsomehoworotherwefeltinstinctivelythatitwashewhohaddoneit。

"Well，it"samostremarkablething-mostremarkable，"answeredthestolidstranger，laughing；"because，asamatteroffact，youarequiteright。Ididcatchit。Butfancyyourguessingitlikethat。Dearme，it"sreallyamostremarkablething。"

Andthenhewenton，andtoldushowithadtakenhimhalfanhourtolandit，andhowithadbrokenhisrod。Hesaidhehadweigheditcarefullywhenhereachedhome，andithadturnedthescaleatthirty-

fourpounds。

Hewentinhisturn，andwhenhewasgone，thelandlordcameintous。

Wetoldhimthevarioushistorieswehadheardabouthistrout，andhewasimmenselyamused，andwealllaughedveryheartily。

"FancyJimBatesandJoeMugglesandMr。JonesandoldBillyMaundersalltellingyouthattheyhadcaughtit。Ha！ha！ha！Well，thatisgood，"

saidthehonestoldfellow，laughingheartily。"Yes，theyarethesorttogiveitME，toputupinMYparlour，ifTHEYhadcaughtit，theyare！

Ha！ha！ha！"

Andthenhetoldustherealhistoryofthefish。Itseemedthathehadcaughtithimself，yearsago，whenhewasquitealad；notbyanyartorskill，butbythatunaccountableluckthatappearstoalwayswaituponaboywhenheplaysthewagfromschool，andgoesoutfishingonasunnyafternoon，withabitofstringtiedontotheendofatree。

Hesaidthatbringinghomethattrouthadsavedhimfromawhacking，andthatevenhisschool-masterhadsaiditwasworththerule-of-threeandpracticeputtogether。

Hewascalledoutoftheroomatthispoint，andGeorgeandIagainturnedourgazeuponthefish。

Itreallywasamostastonishingtrout。Themorewelookedatit，themorewemarvelledatit。

ItexcitedGeorgesomuchthatheclimbeduponthebackofachairtogetabetterviewofit。

Andthenthechairslipped，andGeorgeclutchedwildlyatthetrout-casetosavehimself，anddownitcamewithacrash，Georgeandthechairontopofit。

"Youhaven"tinjuredthefish，haveyou？"Icriedinalarm，rushingup。

"Ihopenot，"saidGeorge，risingcautiouslyandlookingabout。

Buthehad。Thattroutlayshatteredintoathousandfragments-Isayathousand，buttheymayhaveonlybeenninehundred。Ididnotcountthem。

Wethoughtitstrangeandunaccountablethatastuffedtroutshouldbreakupintolittlepieceslikethat。

Andsoitwouldhavebeenstrangeandunaccountable，ifithadbeenastuffedtrout，butitwasnot。

Thattroutwasplaster-of-Paris。

CHAPTERXVIII。

LOCKS-GEORGEANDIAREPHOTOGRAPHED-WALLINGFORD-DORCHESTER-

ABINGDON-AFAMILYMAN-AGOODSPOTFORDROWNING-ADIFFICULTBIT

OFWATER-DEMORALIZINGEFFECTOFRIVERAIR。

WEleftStreatleyearlythenextmorning，andpulleduptoCulham，andsleptunderthecanvas，inthebackwaterthere。

TheriverisnotextraordinarilyinterestingbetweenStreatleyandWallingford。FromCleveyougetastretchofsixandahalfmileswithoutalock。IbelievethisisthelongestuninterruptedstretchanywhereaboveTeddington，andtheOxfordClubmakeuseofitfortheirtrialeights。

Buthoweversatisfactorythisabsenceoflocksmaybetorowing-men，itistoberegrettedbythemerepleasure-seeker。

Formyself，Iamfondoflocks。Theypleasantlybreakthemonotonyofthepull。Ilikesittingintheboatandslowlyrisingoutofthecooldepthsupintonewreachesandfreshviews；orsinkingdown，asitwere，outoftheworld，andthenwaiting，whilethegloomygatescreak，andthenarrowstripofday-lightbetweenthemwidenstillthefairsmilingriverliesfullbeforeyou，andyoupushyourlittleboatoutfromitsbriefprisonontothewelcomingwatersonceagain。

Theyarepicturesquelittlespots，theselocks。Thestoutoldlock-

keeper，orhischeerful-lookingwife，orbright-eyeddaughter，arepleasantfolktohaveapassingchatwith。*Youmeetotherboatsthere，andrivergossipisexchanged。TheThameswouldnotbethefairylanditiswithoutitsflower-deckedlocks。

*OrratherWERE。TheConservancyoflateseemstohaveconstituteditselfintoasocietyfortheemploymentofidiots。Agoodmanyofthenewlock-keepers，especiallyinthemorecrowdedportionsoftheriver，areexcitable，nervousoldmen，quiteunfittedfortheirpost。

TalkingoflocksremindsmeofanaccidentGeorgeandIverynearlyhadonesummer"smorningatHamptonCourt。

Itwasagloriousday，andthelockwascrowded；and，asisacommonpracticeuptheriver，aspeculativephotographerwastakingapictureofusallaswelayupontherisingwaters。

Ididnotcatchwhatwasgoingonatfirst，andwas，therefore，extremelysurprisedatnoticingGeorgehurriedlysmoothouthistrousers，ruffleuphishair，andstickhiscaponinarakishmanneratthebackofhishead，andthen，assuminganexpressionofmingledaffabilityandsadness，sitdowninagracefulattitude，andtrytohidehisfeet。

Myfirstideawasthathehadsuddenlycaughtsightofsomegirlheknew，andIlookedabouttoseewhoitwas。Everybodyinthelockseemedtohavebeensuddenlystruckwooden。TheywereallstandingorsittingaboutinthemostquaintandcuriousattitudesIhaveeverseenoffaJapanesefan。Allthegirlsweresmiling。Oh，theydidlooksosweet！

Andallthefellowswerefrowning，andlookingsternandnoble。

Andthen，atlast，thetruthflashedacrossme，andIwonderedifI

shouldbeintime。Ourswasthefirstboat，anditwouldbeunkindofmetospoiltheman"spicture，Ithought。

SoIfacedroundquickly，andtookupapositionintheprow，whereI

leantwithcarelessgraceuponthehitcher，inanattitudesuggestiveofagilityandstrength。Iarrangedmyhairwithacurlovertheforehead，andthrewanairoftenderwistfulnessintomyexpression，mingledwithatouchofcynicism，whichIamtoldsuitsme。

Aswestood，waitingfortheeventfulmoment，Iheardsomeonebehindcallout：

"Hi！lookatyournose。"

Icouldnotturnroundtoseewhatwasthematter，andwhosenoseitwasthatwastobelookedat。Istoleaside-glanceatGeorge"snose！Itwasallright-atallevents，therewasnothingwrongwithitthatcouldbealtered。Isquinteddownatmyown，andthatseemedallthatcouldbeexpectedalso。

"Lookatyournose，youstupidass！"camethesamevoiceagain，louder。

Andthenanothervoicecried：

"Pushyournoseout，can"tyou，you-youtwowiththedog！"

NeitherGeorgenorIdaredtoturnround。Theman"shandwasonthecap，andthepicturemightbetakenanymoment。Wasitustheywerecallingto？Whatwasthematterwithournoses？Whyweretheytobepushedout！

Butnowthewholelockstartedyelling，andastentorianvoicefromthebackshouted：

"Lookatyourboat，sir；youintheredandblackcaps。It"syourtwocorpsesthatwillgettakeninthatphoto，ifyouain"tquick。"

Welookedthen，andsawthatthenoseofourboathadgotfixedunderthewoodworkofthelock，whilethein-comingwaterwasrisingallaroundit，andtiltingitup。Inanothermomentweshouldbeover。Quickasthought，weeachseizedanoar，andavigorousblowagainstthesideofthelockwiththebutt-endsreleasedtheboat，andsentussprawlingonourbacks。

Wedidnotcomeoutwellinthatphotograph，GeorgeandI。Ofcourse，aswastobeexpected，ourluckordainedit，thatthemanshouldsethiswretchedmachineinmotionattheprecisemomentthatwewerebothlyingonourbackswithawildexpressionof"WhereamI？andwhatisit？"onourfaces，andourfourfeetwavingmadlyintheair。

Ourfeetwereundoubtedlytheleadingarticleinthatphotograph。

Indeed，verylittleelsewastobeseen。Theyfilleduptheforegroundentirely。Behindthem，youcaughtglimpsesoftheotherboats，andbitsofthesurroundingscenery；buteverythingandeverybodyelseinthelocklookedsoutterlyinsignificantandpaltrycomparedwithourfeet，thatalltheotherpeoplefeltquiteashamedofthemselves，andrefusedtosubscribetothepicture。

Theownerofonesteamlaunch，whohadbespokesixcopies，rescindedtheorderonseeingthenegative。Hesaidhewouldtakethemifanybodycouldshowhimhislaunch，butnobodycould。ItwassomewherebehindGeorge"srightfoot。

Therewasagooddealofunpleasantnessoverthebusiness。Thephotographerthoughtweoughttotakeadozencopieseach，seeingthatthephotowasaboutnine-tenthsus，butwedeclined。Wesaidwehadnoobjectiontobeingphoto"dfull-length，butwepreferredbeingtakentherightwayup。

Wallingford，sixmilesaboveStreatley，isaveryancienttown，andhasbeenanactivecentreforthemakingofEnglishhistory。Itwasarude，mud-builttowninthetimeoftheBritons，whosquattedthere，untiltheRomanlegionsevictedthem；andreplacedtheirclay-bakedwallsbymightyfortifications，thetraceofwhichTimehasnotyetsucceededinsweepingaway，sowellthoseold-worldmasonsknewhowtobuild。

ButTime，thoughhehaltedatRomanwalls，sooncrumbledRomanstodust；

andontheground，inlateryears，foughtsavageSaxonsandhugeDanes，untiltheNormanscame。

ItwasawalledandfortifiedtownuptothetimeoftheParliamentaryWar，whenitsufferedalongandbittersiegefromFairfax。Itfellatlast，andthenthewallswererazed。

FromWallingforduptoDorchestertheneighbourhoodoftherivergrowsmorehilly，varied，andpicturesque。Dorchesterstandshalfamilefromtheriver。ItcanbereachedbypaddlinguptheThame，ifyouhaveasmallboat；butthebestwayistoleavetheriveratDay"sLock，andtakeawalkacrossthefields。Dorchesterisadelightfullypeacefuloldplace，nestlinginstillnessandsilenceanddrowsiness。

Dorchester，likeWallingford，wasacityinancientBritishtimes；itwasthencalledCaerDoren，"thecityonthewater。"InmorerecenttimestheRomansformedagreatcamphere，thefortificationssurroundingwhichnowseemlikelow，evenhills。InSaxondaysitwasthecapitalofWessex。Itisveryold，anditwasverystrongandgreatonce。Nowitsitsasidefromthestirringworld，andnodsanddreams。

RoundCliftonHampden，itselfawonderfullyprettyvillage，old-

fashioned，peaceful，anddaintywithflowers，theriversceneryisrichandbeautiful。IfyoustaythenightonlandatClifton，youcannotdobetterthanputupatthe"BarleyMow。"Itis，withoutexception，I

shouldsay，thequaintest，mostold-worldinnuptheriver。Itstandsontherightofthebridge，quiteawayfromthevillage。Itslow-pitchedgablesandthatchedroofandlatticedwindowsgiveitquiteastory-bookappearance，whileinsideitisevenstillmoreonce-upon-a-timeyfied。

Itwouldnotbeagoodplacefortheheroineofamodernnoveltostayat。Theheroineofamodernnovelisalways"divinelytall，"andsheisever"drawingherselfuptoherfullheight。"Atthe"BarleyMow"shewouldbumpherheadagainsttheceilingeachtimeshedidthis。

Itwouldalsobeabadhouseforadrunkenmantoputupat。Therearetoomanysurprisesinthewayofunexpectedstepsdownintothisroomandupintothat；andasforgettingupstairstohisbedroom，oreverfindinghisbedwhenhegotup，eitheroperationwouldbeanutterimpossibilitytohim。

Wewereupearlythenextmorning，aswewantedtobeinOxfordbytheafternoon。Itissurprisinghowearlyonecangetup，whencampingout。

Onedoesnotyearnfor"justanotherfiveminutes"nearlysomuch，lyingwrappedupinarugontheboardsofaboat，withaGladstonebagforapillow，asonedoesinafeatherbed。Wehadfinishedbreakfast，andwerethroughCliftonLockbyhalf-pasteight。

FromCliftontoCulhamtheriverbanksareflat，monotonous，anduninteresting，but，afteryougetthroughCulhalmLock-thecoldestanddeepestlockontheriver-thelandscapeimproves。

AtAbingdon，theriverpassesbythestreets。Abingdonisatypicalcountrytownofthesmallerorder-quiet，eminentlyrespectable，clean，anddesperatelydull。Itpridesitselfonbeingold，butwhetheritcancompareinthisrespectwithWallingfordandDorchesterseemsdoubtful。

Afamousabbeystoodhereonce，andwithinwhatisleftofitssanctifiedwallstheybrewbitteralenowadays。

InSt。NicholasChurch，atAbingdon，thereisamonumenttoJohnBlackwallandhiswifeJane，whoboth，afterleadingahappymarriedlife，diedontheverysameday，August21，1625；andinSt。Helen"sChurch，itisrecordedthatW。Lee，whodiedin1637，"hadinhislifetimeissuefromhisloinstwohundredlackingbutthree。"IfyouworkthisoutyouwillfindthatMr。W。Lee"sfamilynumberedonehundredandninety-seven。Mr。W。Lee-fivetimesMayorofAbingdon-was，nodoubt，abenefactortohisgeneration，butIhopetherearenotmanyofhiskindaboutinthisovercrowdednineteenthcentury。

FromAbingdontoNunehamCourteneyisalovelystretch。NunehamParkiswellworthavisit。ItcanbeviewedonTuesdaysandThursdays。Thehousecontainsafinecollectionofpicturesandcuriosities，andthegroundsareverybeautiful。

ThepoolunderSandfordlasher，justbehindthelock，isaverygoodplacetodrownyourselfin。Theundercurrentisterriblystrong，andifyouoncegetdownintoityouareallright。Anobeliskmarksthespotwheretwomenhavealreadybeendrowned，whilebathingthere；andthestepsoftheobeliskaregenerallyusedasadiving-boardbyyoungmennowwhowishtoseeiftheplacereallyISdangerous。

IffleyLockandMill，amilebeforeyoureachOxford，isafavouritesubjectwiththeriver-lovingbrethrenofthebrush。Therealarticle，however，isratherdisappointing，afterthepictures。Fewthings，Ihavenoticed，comequiteuptothepicturesofthem，inthisworld。

WepassedthroughIffleyLockatabouthalf-pasttwelve，andthen，havingtidieduptheboatandmadeallreadyforlanding，wesettoworkonourlastmile。

BetweenIffleyandOxfordisthemostdifficultbitoftheriverIknow。

Youwanttobebornonthatbitofwater，tounderstandit。Ihavebeenoveritafairishnumberoftimes，butIhaveneverbeenabletogetthehangofit。ThemanwhocouldrowastraightcoursefromOxfordtoIffleyoughttobeabletolivecomfortably，underoneroof，withhiswife，hismother-in-law，hiseldersister，andtheoldservantwhowasinthefamilywhenhewasababy。

Firstthecurrentdrivesyouontotherightbank，andthenontotheleft，thenittakesyououtintothemiddle，turnsyouroundthreetimes，andcarriesyouupstreamagain，andalwaysendsbytryingtosmashyouupagainstacollegebarge。

Ofcourse，asaconsequenceofthis，wegotinthewayofagoodmanyotherboats，duringthemile，andtheyinours，and，ofcourse，asaconsequenceofthat，agooddealofbadlanguageoccurred。

Idon"tknowwhyitshouldbe，buteverybodyisalwayssoexceptionallyirritableontheriver。Littlemishaps，thatyouwouldhardlynoticeondryland，driveyounearlyfranticwithrage，whentheyoccuronthewater。WhenHarrisorGeorgemakesanassofhimselfondryland，I

smileindulgently；whentheybehaveinachuckle-headwayontheriver，I

usethemostblood-curdlinglanguagetothem。Whenanotherboatgetsinmyway，IfeelIwanttotakeanoarandkillallthepeopleinit。

Themildesttemperedpeople，whenonland，becomeviolentandblood-

thirstywheninaboat。Ididalittleboatingoncewithayounglady。

Shewasnaturallyofthesweetestandgentlestdispositionimaginable，butontheriveritwasquiteawfultohearher。

"Oh，drattheman！"shewouldexclaim，whensomeunfortunatescullerwouldgetinherway；"whydon"thelookwherehe"sgoing？"

And，"Oh，botherthesillyoldthing！"shewouldsayindignantly，whenthesailwouldnotgoupproperly。Andshewouldcatchholdofit，andshakeitquitebrutally。

Yet，asIhavesaid，whenonshoreshewaskind-heartedandamiableenough。

Theairoftheriverhasademoralisingeffectuponone"stemper，andthisitis，Isuppose，whichcausesevenbargementobesometimesrudetooneanother，andtouselanguagewhich，nodoubt，intheircalmermomentstheyregret。

CHAPTERXIX。

OXFORD-MONTMORENCY"SIDEAOFHEAVEN-THEHIREDUP-RIVERBOAT，ITS

BEAUTIESANDADVANTAGES-THE"PRIDEOFTHETHAMES。"-THEWEATHER

CHANGES-THERIVERUNDERDIFFERENTASPECTS-NOTACHEERFULEVENING-

YEARNINGSFORTHEUNATTAINABLE-THECHEERYCHATGOESROUND-GEORGE

PERFORMSUPONTHEBANJO-AMOURNFULMELODY-ANOTHERWETDAY-

FLIGHT-ALITTLESUPPERANDATOAST。

WEspenttwoverypleasantdaysatOxford。ThereareplentyofdogsinthetownofOxford。Montmorencyhadelevenfightsonthefirstday，andfourteenonthesecond，andevidentlythoughthehadgottoheaven。

Amongfolktooconstitutionallyweak，ortooconstitutionallylazy，whicheveritmaybe，torelishup-streamwork，itisacommonpracticetogetaboatatOxford，androwdown。Fortheenergetic，however，theup-

streamjourneyiscertainlytobepreferred。Itdoesnotseemgoodtobealwaysgoingwiththecurrent。Thereismoresatisfactioninsquaringone"sback，andfightingagainstit，andwinningone"swayforwardinspiteofit-atleast，soIfeel，whenHarrisandGeorgearescullingandIamsteering。

TothosewhodocontemplatemakingOxfordtheirstarting-place，Iwouldsay，takeyourownboat-unless，ofcourse，youcantakesomeoneelse"swithoutanypossibledangerofbeingfoundout。Theboatsthat，asarule，areletforhireontheThamesaboveMarlow，areverygoodboats。

Theyarefairlywater-tight；andsolongastheyarehandledwithcare，theyrarelycometopieces，orsink。Thereareplacesinthemtositdownon，andtheyarecompletewithallthenecessaryarrangements-ornearlyall-toenableyoutorowthemandsteerthem。

Buttheyarenotornamental。TheboatyouhireuptheriveraboveMarlowisnotthesortofboatinwhichyoucanflashaboutandgiveyourselfairs。Thehiredup-riverboatverysoonputsastoptoanynonsenseofthatsortonthepartofitsoccupants。Thatisitschief-onemaysay，itsonlyrecommendation。

Themaninthehiredup-riverboatismodestandretiring。Helikestokeepontheshadyside，underneaththetrees，andtodomostofhistravellingearlyinthemorningorlateatnight，whentherearenotmanypeopleaboutontherivertolookathim。

Whenthemaninthehiredup-riverboatseesanyoneheknows，hegetsoutontothebank，andhidesbehindatree。

Iwasoneofapartywhohiredanup-riverboatonesummer，forafewdays"trip。Wehadnoneofuseverseenthehiredup-riverboatbefore；

andwedidnotknowwhatitwaswhenwedidseeit。

Wehadwrittenforaboat-adoublescullingskiff；andwhenwewentdownwithourbagstotheyard，andgaveournames，themansaid：

"Oh，yes；you"rethepartythatwroteforadoublescullingskiff。It"sallright。Jim，fetchroundTHEPRIDEOFTHETHAMES。"

Theboywent，andre-appearedfiveminutesafterwards，strugglingwithanantediluvianchunkofwood，thatlookedasthoughithadbeenrecentlydugoutofsomewhere，anddugoutcarelessly，soastohavebeenunnecessarilydamagedintheprocess。

Myownidea，onfirstcatchingsightoftheobject，wasthatitwasaRomanrelicofsomesort，-relicofWHATIdonotknow，possiblyofacoffin。

TheneighbourhoodoftheupperThamesisrichinRomanrelics，andmysurmiseseemedtomeaveryprobableone；butourseriousyoungman，whoisabitofageologist，pooh-poohedmyRomanrelictheory，andsaiditwascleartothemeanestintellect（inwhichcategoryheseemedtobegrievedthathecouldnotconscientiouslyincludemine）thatthethingtheboyhadfoundwasthefossilofawhale；andhepointedouttousvariousevidencesprovingthatitmusthavebelongedtothepreglacialperiod。

Tosettlethedispute，weappealedtotheboy。Wetoldhimnottobeafraid，buttospeaktheplaintruth：Wasitthefossilofapre-Adamitewhale，orwasitanearlyRomancoffin？

TheboysaiditwasTHEPRIDEOFTHETHAMES。

Wethoughtthisaveryhumorousansweronthepartoftheboyatfirst，andsomebodygavehimtwopenceasarewardforhisreadywit；butwhenhepersistedinkeepingupthejoke，aswethought，toolong，wegotvexedwithhim。

"Come，come，mylad！"saidourcaptainsharply，"don"tletushaveanynonsense。Youtakeyourmother"swashing-tubhomeagain，andbringusaboat。"

Theboat-builderhimselfcameupthen，andassuredus，onhisword，asapracticalman，thatthethingreallywasaboat-was，infact，THEboat，the"doublescullingskiff"selectedtotakeusonourtripdowntheriver。

Wegrumbledagooddeal。Wethoughthemight，atleast，havehaditwhitewashedortarred-hadSOMETHINGdonetoittodistinguishitfromabitofawreck；buthecouldnotseeanyfaultinit。

Heevenseemedoffendedatourremarks。Hesaidhehadpickedusoutthebestboatinallhisstock，andhethoughtwemighthavebeenmoregrateful。

Hesaidit，THEPRIDEOFTHETHAMES，hadbeeninuse，justasitnowstood（orratherasitnowhungtogether），forthelastfortyyears，tohisknowledge，andnobodyhadcomplainedofitbefore，andhedidnotseewhyweshouldbethefirsttobegin。

Wearguednomore。

Wefastenedtheso-calledboattogetherwithsomepiecesofstring，gotabitofwall-paperandpastedovertheshabbierplaces，saidourprayers，andsteppedonboard。

Theychargedusthirty-fiveshillingsfortheloanoftheremnantforsixdays；andwecouldhaveboughtthethingout-and-outforfour-and-

sixpenceatanysaleofdrift-woodroundthecoast。

Theweatherchangedonthethirdday，-Oh！Iamtalkingaboutourpresenttripnow，-andwestartedfromOxforduponourhomewardjourneyinthemidstofasteadydrizzle。

Theriver-withthesunlightflashingfromitsdancingwavelets，gildinggoldthegrey-greenbeech-trunks，glintingthroughthedark，coolwoodpaths，chasingshadowso"ertheshallows，flingingdiamondsfromthemill-wheels，throwingkissestothelilies，wantoningwiththeweirs"

whitewaters，silveringmoss-grownwallsandbridges，brighteningeverytinytownlet，makingsweeteachlaneandmeadow，lyingtangledintherushes，peeping，laughing，fromeachinlet，gleaminggayonmanyafarsail，makingsofttheairwithglory-isagoldenfairystream。

Buttheriver-chillandweary，withtheceaselessrain-dropsfallingonitsbrownandsluggishwaters，withasoundasofawoman，weepinglowinsomedarkchamber；whilethewoods，alldarkandsilent，shroudedintheirmistsofvapour，standlikeghostsuponthemargin；silentghostswitheyesreproachful，liketheghostsofevilactions，liketheghostsoffriendsneglected-isaspirit-hauntedwaterthroughthelandofvainregrets。

Sunlightisthelife-bloodofNature。MotherEarthlooksatuswithsuchdull，soullesseyes，whenthesunlighthasdiedawayfromoutofher。Itmakesussadtobewithherthen；shedoesnotseemtoknowusortocareforus。Sheisasawidowwhohaslostthehusbandsheloved，andherchildrentouchherhand，andlookupintohereyes，butgainnosmilefromher。

Werowedonallthatdaythroughtherain，andverymelancholyworkitwas。Wepretended，atfirst，thatweenjoyedit。Wesaiditwasachange，andthatwelikedtoseetheriverunderallitsdifferentaspects。Wesaidwecouldnotexpecttohaveitallsunshine，norshouldwewishit。WetoldeachotherthatNaturewasbeautiful，eveninhertears。

Indeed，HarrisandIwerequiteenthusiasticaboutthebusiness，forthefirstfewhours。Andwesangasongaboutagipsy"slife，andhowdelightfulagipsy"sexistencewas！-freetostormandsunshine，andtoeverywindthatblew！-andhowheenjoyedtherain，andwhatalotofgooditdidhim；andhowhelaughedatpeoplewhodidn"tlikeit。

Georgetookthefunmoresoberly，andstucktotheumbrella。

Wehoistedthecoverbeforewehadlunch，andkeptitupalltheafternoon，justleavingalittlespaceinthebow，fromwhichoneofuscouldpaddleandkeepalook-out。Inthiswaywemadeninemiles，andpulledupforthenightalittlebelowDay"sLock。

Icannothonestlysaythatwehadamerryevening。Therainpoureddownwithquietpersistency。Everythingintheboatwasdampandclammy。

Supperwasnotasuccess。Coldvealpie，whenyoudon"tfeelhungry，isapttocloy。IfeltIwantedwhitebaitandacutlet；Harrisbabbledofsolesandwhite-sauce，andpassedtheremainsofhispietoMontmorency，whodeclinedit，and，apparentlyinsultedbytheoffer，wentandsatoverattheotherendoftheboatbyhimself。

Georgerequestedthatwewouldnottalkaboutthesethings，atalleventsuntilhehadfinishedhiscoldboiledbeefwithoutmustard。

Weplayedpennynapaftersupper。Weplayedforaboutanhourandahalf，bytheendofwhichtimeGeorgehadwonfourpence-Georgealwaysisluckyatcards-andHarrisandIhadlostexactlytwopenceeach。

Wethoughtwewouldgiveupgamblingthen。AsHarrissaid，itbreedsanunhealthyexcitementwhencarriedtoofar。Georgeofferedtogoonandgiveusourrevenge；butHarrisandIdecidednottobattleanyfurtheragainstFate。

Afterthat，wemixedourselvessometoddy，andsatroundandtalked。

Georgetoldusaboutamanhehadknown，whohadcomeuptherivertwoyearsagoandwhohadsleptoutinadampboatonjustsuchanothernightasthatwas，andithadgivenhimrheumaticfever，andnothingwasabletosavehim，andhehaddiedingreatagonytendaysafterwards。Georgesaidhewasquiteayoungman，andwasengagedtobemarried。Hesaiditwasoneofthesaddestthingshehadeverknown。

AndthatputHarrisinmindofafriendofhis，whohadbeenintheVolunteers，andwhohadsleptoutundercanvasonewetnightdownatAldershot，"onjustsuchanothernightasthis，"saidHarris；andhehadwokeupinthemorningacrippleforlife。Harrissaidhewouldintroduceusbothtothemanwhenwegotbacktotown；itwouldmakeourheartsbleedtoseehim。

Thisnaturallyledtosomepleasantchataboutsciatica，fevers，chills，lungdiseases，andbronchitis；andHarrissaidhowveryawkwarditwouldbeifoneofusweretakenseriouslyillinthenight，seeinghowfarawaywewerefromadoctor。

Thereseemedtobeadesireforsomethingfrolicksometofollowuponthisconversation，andinaweakmomentIsuggestedthatGeorgeshouldgetouthisbanjo，andseeifhecouldnotgiveusacomicsong。

IwillsayforGeorgethathedidnotwantanypressing。Therewasnononsenseabouthavinglefthismusicathome，oranythingofthatsort。

Heatoncefishedouthisinstrument，andcommencedtoplay"TwoLovelyBlackEyes。"

Ihadalwaysregarded"TwoLovelyBlackEyes"asratheracommonplacetuneuntilthatevening。TherichveinofsadnessthatGeorgeextractedfromitquitesurprisedme。

ThedesirethatgrewuponHarrisandmyself，asthemournfulstrainsprogressed，wastofalluponeachother"snecksandweep；butbygreateffortwekeptbacktherisingtears，andlistenedtothewildyearnfulmelodyinsilence。

Whenthechoruscameweevenmadeadesperateefforttobemerry。Were-

filledourglassesandjoinedin；Harris，inavoicetremblingwithemotion，leading，andGeorgeandIfollowingafewwordsbehind：

"Twolovelyblackeyes；

Oh！whatasurprise！

Onlyfortellingamanhewaswrong，Two-"

Therewebrokedown。TheunutterablepathosofGeorge"saccompanimenttothat"two"wewere，inourthenstateofdepression，unabletobear。

Harrissobbedlikealittlechild，andthedoghowledtillIthoughthisheartorhisjawmustsurelybreak。

Georgewantedtogoonwithanotherverse。Hethoughtthatwhenhehadgotalittlemoreintothetune，andcouldthrowmore"abandon，"asitwere，intotherendering，itmightnotseemsosad。Thefeelingofthemajority，however，wasopposedtotheexperiment。

Therebeingnothingelsetodo，wewenttobed-thatis，weundressedourselves，andtossedaboutatthebottomoftheboatforsomethreeorfourhours。Afterwhich，wemanagedtogetsomefitfulslumberuntilfivea。m。，whenweallgotupandhadbreakfast。

Theseconddaywasexactlylikethefirst。Theraincontinuedtopourdown，andwesat，wrappedupinourmackintoshes，underneaththecanvas，anddriftedslowlydown。

Oneofus-Iforgetwhichonenow，butIratherthinkitwasmyself-

madeafewfeebleattemptsduringthecourseofthemorningtoworkuptheoldgipsyfoolishnessaboutbeingchildrenofNatureandenjoyingthewet；butitdidnotgodownwellatall。That-

"Icarenotfortherain，notI！"

wassopainfullyevident，asexpressingthesentimentsofeachofus，thattosingitseemedunnecessary。

Ononepointwewereallagreed，andthatwasthat，comewhatmight，wewouldgothroughwiththisjobtothebitterend。Wehadcomeoutforafortnight"senjoymentontheriver，andafortnight"senjoymentontheriverwemeanttohave。Ifitkilledus！well，thatwouldbeasadthingforourfriendsandrelations，butitcouldnotbehelped。Wefeltthattogiveintotheweatherinaclimatesuchasourswouldbeamostdisastrousprecedent。

"It"sonlytwodaysmore，"saidHarris，"andweareyoungandstrong。Wemaygetoveritallright，afterall。"

Ataboutfouro"clockwebegantodiscussourarrangementsfortheevening。WewerealittlepastGoringthen，andwedecidedtopaddleontoPangbourne，andputupthereforthenight。

"Anotherjollyevening！"murmuredGeorge。

Wesatandmusedontheprospect。WeshouldbeinatPangbournebyfive。

Weshouldfinishdinnerat，say，half-pastsix。Afterthatwecouldwalkaboutthevillageinthepouringrainuntilbed-time；orwecouldsitinadimly-litbar-parlourandreadthealmanac。

"Why，theAlhambrawouldbealmostmorelively，"saidHarris，venturinghisheadoutsidethecoverforamomentandtakingasurveyofthesky。

"Withalittlesupperatthe-*tofollow，"Iadded，halfunconsciously。

*Acapitallittleout-of-the-wayrestaurant，intheneighbourhoodof-，whereyoucangetoneofthebest-cookedandcheapestlittleFrenchdinnersorsuppersthatIknowof，withanexcellentbottleofBeaune，forthree-and-six；andwhichIamnotgoingtobeidiotenoughtoadvertise。

"Yesit"salmostapitywe"vemadeupourmindstosticktothisboat，"

answeredHarris；andthentherewassilenceforawhile。

"IfweHADN"Tmadeupourmindstocontractourcertaindeathsinthisballyoldcoffin，"observedGeorge，castingaglanceofintensemalevolenceovertheboat，"itmightbeworthwhiletomentionthatthere"satrainleavesPangbourne，Iknow，soonafterfive，whichwouldjustlandusintownincomfortabletimetogetachop，andthengoontotheplaceyoumentionedafterwards。"

Nobodyspoke。Welookedatoneanother，andeachoneseemedtoseehisownmeanandguiltythoughtsreflectedinthefacesoftheothers。Insilence，wedraggedoutandoverhauledtheGladstone。Welookeduptheriveranddowntheriver；notasoulwasinsight！

Twentyminuteslater，threefigures，followedbyashamed-lookingdog，mighthavebeenseencreepingstealthilyfromtheboat-houseatthe"Swan"towardstherailwaystation，dressedinthefollowingneitherneatnorgaudycostume：

Blackleathershoes，dirty；suitofboatingflannels，verydirty；brownfelthat，muchbattered；mackintosh，verywet；umbrella。

WehaddeceivedtheboatmanatPangbourne。Wehadnothadthefacetotellhimthatwewererunningawayfromtherain。Wehadlefttheboat，andallitcontained，inhischarge，withinstructionsthatitwastobereadyforusatninethenextmorning。If，wesaid-IFanythingunforeseenshouldhappen，preventingourreturn，wewouldwritetohim。

WereachedPaddingtonatseven，anddrovedirecttotherestaurantIhavebeforedescribed，wherewepartookofalightmeal，leftMontmorency，togetherwithsuggestionsforasuppertobereadyathalf-pastten，andthencontinuedourwaytoLeicesterSquare。

WeattractedagooddealofattentionattheAlhambra。OnourpresentingourselvesatthepayboxweweregrufflydirectedtogoroundtoCastleStreet，andwereinformedthatwewerehalf-an-hourbehindourtime。

Weconvincedtheman，withsomedifficulty，thatwewereNOT"theworld-

renownedcontortionistsfromtheHimalayaMountains，"andhetookourmoneyandletuspass。

Insidewewereastillgreatersuccess。Ourfinebronzedcountenancesandpicturesqueclotheswerefollowedroundtheplacewithadmiringgaze。

Wewerethecynosureofeveryeye。

Itwasaproudmomentforusall。

Weadjournedsoonafterthefirstballet，andwendedourwaybacktotherestaurant，wheresupperwasalreadyawaitingus。

Imustconfesstoenjoyingthatsupper。Forabouttendaysweseemedtohavebeenliving，moreorless，onnothingbutcoldmeat，cake，andbreadandjam。Ithadbeenasimple，anutritiousdiet；buttherehadbeennothingexcitingaboutit，andtheodourofBurgundy，andthesmellofFrenchsauces，andthesightofcleannapkinsandlongloaves，knockedasaverywelcomevisitoratthedoorofourinnerman。

Wepeggedandquaffedawayinsilenceforawhile，untilthetimecamewhen，insteadofsittingboltupright，andgraspingtheknifeandforkfirmly，weleantbackinourchairsandworkedslowlyandcarelessly-

whenwestretchedoutourlegsbeneaththetable，letournapkinsfall，unheeded，tothefloor，andfoundtimetomorecriticallyexaminethesmokyceilingthanwehadhithertobeenabletodo-whenwerestedourglassesatarm"s-lengthuponthetable，andfeltgood，andthoughtful，andforgiving。

ThenHarris，whowassittingnextthewindow，drewasidethecurtainandlookedoutuponthestreet。

Itglisteneddarklyinthewet，thedimlampsflickeredwitheachgust，therainsplashedsteadilyintothepuddlesandtrickleddownthewater-

spoutsintotherunninggutters。Afewsoakedwayfarershurriedpast，crouchingbeneaththeirdrippingumbrellas，thewomenholdinguptheirskirts。

"Well，"saidHarris，reachinghishandoutforhisglass，"wehavehadapleasanttrip，andmyheartythanksforittooldFatherThames-butI

thinkwedidwelltochuckitwhenwedid。Here"stoThreeMenwelloutofaBoat！"

AndMontmorency，standingonhishindlegs，beforethewindow，peeringoutintothenight，gaveashortbarkofdecidedconcurrencewiththetoast。