The Adventures of Louis de Rougemont

第3章

Dayafterday，dayafterday，Igazedwistfullyovertheseaforhoursatatime，withouteverseeingasail，andatlastIbegantogrowsomewhatdespondent，andsighedforthecompanionshipofmyblackfriendsoncemore。Yambawasunremittinginherendeavourstomakelifepleasantformeandkeepmewellsuppliedwiththebestoffood；butIcouldseethatshe，too，didnotlikelivingonthisexposedanddesolatespot。So，afterafewweeks”experienceoflifethere，Idecidedtoreturntomybayhome，andlateronmakepreparationsforajourneyoverlandtoapointontheAustraliancoast，whereIlearnedshipsquitefrequentlypassed。

ThepointinquestionwasSomersetPoint，attheextremenorthoftheCapeYorkpeninsula；andIhadlearntofitsexistencefromJensenwhenwewerepearl-fishing。Theblacksweredelightedtoseemeonmyreturn，andIremainedwiththemseveralmonthsbeforeattemptingmynextjourney。TheywerekeenlyanxiousthatIshouldjointhemintheirfightingexpeditions，butIalwaysdeclined，onthegroundthatIwasnotafightingman。Thefactofthematterwas，thatIcouldneverhopetothrowaspearwithanythinglikethedexteritytheythemselvespossessed；andasspearsweretheprincipalweaponsusedinwarfare，IwasafraidIwouldnotshowupwellatacriticalmoment。Moreover，thewarriorsdefendedthemselvessodexterouslywithshieldsastobeallbutinvulnerable，whereasIhadnottheslightestideaofhowtohandleashield。Andforthesakeofmyever-indispensableprestige，I

couldnotaffordtomakemyselfridiculousintheireyes。IalwaystookgoodcaretolettheblacksseemeperformingonlythosefeatswhichIfeltmorallycertainIcouldaccomplish，andaccomplishtotheiramazement。

SofarIhadwonlaurelsenoughwithmymysteriousarrowsor“flyingspears，“asthenativesconsideredthem，andmyprowesswiththeharpoonandtomahawkwassunginmanytribes。AndnottheleastawkwardthingaboutmypositionwasthatIdarednotevenattemptalittlequietpracticeinspear-throwing，forfeartheblacksshouldcomeuponmesuddenly，whenIwouldmostcertainlylosecaste。Ihadseveralnarrowescapesfromthisseriouscalamity，butmostofthemcannotbepublishedhere。Imusttellyou，though，thattheblacks，whendrinkingatariverorwater-

hole，invariablyscoopupthewaterwiththeirhands，andneverputtheirmouthsrightdownclosetothesurfaceofthewater。Well，onedayIwasguiltyofthissolecism。Ihadbeenoutonahuntingexpedition，andreachedthewater-holewithanintenseburningthirst。Mymentorwasnotwithme。Ifellonmykneesandfairlyburiedmyfaceinthelife-givingfluid。SuddenlyIheardmurmursbehindme。Iturnedpresentlyandsawapartyofmyblacksregardingmewithhorror。TheysaidIdranklikeakangaroo。ButYambasooncametotherescue，andexplainedawaythedreadfulbreachofetiquette，bytellingthemthatIwasnotdrinking，butsimplycoolingmyface；whenwewerealoneshesolemnlycautionedmenevertodoitagain。

Themonthspassedslowlyaway，andIwasstilllivingthesamemonotonouslifeamongmyblacks——accompanyingthemupontheirhuntingexpeditions，joiningintheirsports，andmakingperiodicaltripsinlandwithYamba，inpreparationforthegreatjourneyI

proposedtomakeoverlandtoCapeYork。WhenIspoketomydevotedcompanionaboutmyplans，shetoldmeshewasreadytoaccompanymewhereverIwent——toleaveherpeopleandtobeforeverbymyside。

RightwellIknewthatshewouldunhesitatinglydothesethings。

Herdog-likefidelitytomeneverwavered，andIknowshewouldhavelaiddownherlifeformeatanytime。

OftenItoldherofmyownhomebeyondtheseas，andwhenIaskedherwhethershewouldcomewithme，shewouldreply，“Yourpeoplearemypeople，andyourGod(spirit)myGod。Iwillgowithyouwhereveryoutakeme。”

Atlengtheverythingwasready，andIpaidafinalfarewell，asI

thought，tomyblackfriendsinCambridgeGulf，afteralittleovereighteenmonths”residenceamongthem。TheyknewIwasventuringonalongjourneyoverlandtoanotherpartofthecountrymanymoonsdistant，inthehopeofbeingabletogetintotouchwithmyownpeople；andthoughtheyrealisedtheyshouldneverseemeagain，theythoughtmydepartureaverynaturalthing。Thenightbeforeweleft，agreatcorroboreewasheldinmyhonour。Wehadaveryaffectionateleave-taking，andabodyofthenativesescortedusforthefirst100milesorsoofourtrip。Atlast，however，Yamba，myself，andthefaithfuldogwerelefttocontinueourwanderingsalone。TherelianceIplaceduponthiswomanbythewaywasabsoluteandunquestioning。IknewthataloneIcouldnotliveadayintheawfulwildernessthroughwhichweweretopass；norcouldanysolitarywhiteman。Bythistime，however，IhadhadinnumerabledemonstrationsofYamba”salmostmiraculouspowersinthewayofprovidingfoodandwaterwhen，totheordinaryeye，neitherwasforthcoming。IshouldhavementionedthatbeforeleavingmyblackpeopleIhadprovidedmyselfwithwhatImaytermanativepassport——akindofMasonicmysticstick，inscribedwithcertaincabalisticcharacters。Everychiefcarriedoneofthesesticks。Icarriedmineinmylong，luxurianthair，whichIwore“bun“fashion，heldinanetofopossumhair。Thispassportstickprovedinvaluableasameansofputtingusongoodtermswiththedifferenttribesweencountered。Thechiefsoftheblacksneverventuredoutoftheirowncountrywithoutoneofthesemysterioussticks，neitherdidthenativemessage-bearers。IamsureIshouldnothavebeenabletotravelfarwithoutmine。

WheneverIencounteredastrangetribeIalwaysaskedtobetakenbeforethechief，andwheninhispresenceIpresentedmylittlestick，hewouldatoncemanifestthegreatestfriendliness，andofferusfoodanddrink。Then，beforeItookmydeparture，healsowouldinscribehissignuponthemessagestick，handingitbacktomeandprobablysendingmeontoanothertribewithanescort。Itoftenhappened，however，thatIwaspersonallyintroducedtoanothertribewhose“frontier“joinedthatofmylatehosts，andinsuchcasesmypassportwasunnecessary。

Atfirstthecountrythroughwhichourwanderingsleduswashillyandwellwooded，thetreesbeingparticularlyfine，manyofthemtoweringuptoaheightof150feetor200feet。Ourprincipalfoodconsistedofroots，rats，snakes，opossum，andkangaroo。Thephysicalconditionsofthecountrywereconstantlychangingaswemovedfarthereastward，andYamba”singenuitywasoftensorelytaxedtodetectthewhereaboutsofthevariousrootsnecessaryforfood。ItwasobviouslyunfairtoexpecthertobefamiliarwiththefloraandfaunaofeverypartofthegreatAustralianContinent。Sometimesshewasabsolutelynonplused，andhadtostayafewdayswithatribeuntilthewomeninitiatedherintothebestmethodsofcookingtherootsofthecountry。Andoftenwecouldnotunderstandthelanguage。Insuchcases，though，whenspokenwordswereunlikethoseutteredinYamba”scountry，weresortedtoawonderfulsign-languagewhichappearstobegeneralamongtheAustralianblacks。AllthatYambacarriedwasabasketmadeofbark，slungoverhershoulder，andcontainingavarietyofusefulthings，includingsomeneedlesmadeoutofthebonesofbirdsandfish；acoupleoflightgrinding-stonesforcrushingoutofitsshellaverysustainingkindofnutfoundonthepalmtrees，&c。

Dayafterdaywewalkedsteadilyoninaneasterlydirection，guidingourselvesinthedaytimebythesun，andintheeveningbyopossumscratchesontreesandthepositionsoftheant-hills，whicharealwaysbuiltfacingtheeast。Wecrossedmanycreeksandrivers，sometimeswadingandatotherstimeswimming。

Graduallyweleftthehillycountrybehind，andafteraboutfiveorsixweeks”trampinggotintoanextraordinarydesertofredsand，whichgaveoffadustfromourverytracksthatnearlysuffocatedus。Eachwater-holewecameacrossnowbegantocontainlessandlessofthepreciousliquid，andourdailymenugrewmoreandmorescanty，untilatlengthwewerecompelledtoliveonpracticallynothingbutafewrootsandstrayrats。Stillweploddedon，finallystrikingaterriblespinifexcountry，whichwasinconceivablyworsethananythingwehadhithertoencountered。Inordertomakeourwaythroughthisspinifex(theterrible“porcupinegrass“oftheAustralianinterior)，wewereboundtofollowthetracksmadebykangaroosornatives，otherwiseweshouldhavemadenoprogresswhatever。Thesetracksattimeswanderedaboutzigzagfashion，andledusconsiderabledistancesoutofourcourse，but，allthesame，wedarenotleavethem。Notonlywaswaterallbutunobtainablehere，butourskinwastornwiththornsatalmosteverystep。Yambawasterriblytroubledwhenshefoundshecouldnolongerprovideformywants。Fortunatelythedewfellheavilyatnight，andasufficientquantitywouldcollectonthefoliagetorefreshmesomewhatinthemorning。HoweagerlywouldI

lickthepreciousdropsfromtheleaves！Curiouslyenough，Yambaherselfuptothistimedidnotseemdistressedfromlackofwater；

butnothingaboutthismarvellouswomansurprisedme。Ittookusabouttendaystopassthroughtheawfulspinifexdesert，andforatleasteightdaysofthatperiodwewerevirtuallywithoutwater，trampingthroughnever-endingtractsofscrub，pricklygrass，andundulatingsand-hillsofareddishcolour。OftenandoftenI

blamedmyselfbitterlyforevergoingintothatfrightfulcountryatall。HadIknownbeforehandthatitwastotallyuninhabitedI

certainlyshouldnothaveventuredintoit。Wewerestillgoingdueeast，butinconsequenceofthelackofwater-holes，myheroicguidethoughtitadvisabletostrikealittlemorenorth。

CHAPTERVII

Theagoniesofthirst——Aghastlydrink——IaskYambatokillme——Myministeringangel——HowYambacaughtopossum——Thewaterwitch——A

barometerofsnakes——Thecomingdeluge——TheplungeintotheRapids——

Awasteofwaters——Afearfulsituation——Barkingalligators——

English-speakingnatives——Ashipatlast——Iabandonhope——Thedesertedsettlement。

BythistimeIbegantofeelquitedelirious；IfearIwaslikeababyinYamba”shands。SheknewthatallIwantedwaswater，andbecamealmostdistractedwhenshecouldnotfindanyforme。Ofherselfsheneverthought。Andyetshewasfullofstrangeresourcesanddevices。WhenImoanedaloudinanagonyofthirst，shewouldgivemesomekindofgrasstochew；andalthoughthispossessednorealmoisture，yetitpromotedtheflowofsaliva，andthusslightlyrelievedme。

Thingsgrewworseandworse，however，andthedeliriumincreased。

Hourafterhour——throughtheendlessnightswouldthatdevotedcreaturesitbymyside，moisteningmylipswiththedewthatcollectedonthegrass。OnthefifthdaywithoutwaterIsufferedthemostshockingagonies，andinmylucidmomentsgavemyselfupforlost。Icouldneitherstandnorwalk，speaknorswallow。Mythroatseemedtobealmostclosedup，andwhenIopenedmyeyeseverythingappearedtobegoingroundandroundinthemostdizzyandsickeningmanner。Myheartbeatwithchokingviolence，andmyheadached，sothatIthoughtIwasgoingmad。Mybloodshoteyes(soYambasubsequentlytoldme)projectedfromtheirsocketsinthemostterrifyingmanner，andahorribleindescribablelongingpossessedmetokillmyfaithfulBruno，inordertodrinkhisblood。MypoorBruno！AsIwritethesehumblelines，solackinginliterarygrace，IfancyIcanseehimlyingbymysideinthatglaring，illimitablewilderness，hispoor，drytonguelollingout，andhispiteousbrowneyesfixeduponmewithanexpressionofmuteappealthataddedtomyagony。TheonlythingthatkepthimfromcollapsingaltogetherwasthebloodofsomeanimalwhichYambamightsucceedinkilling。

GraduallyIgrewweakerandweaker，andatlastfeelingtheendwasnear，IcrawledunderthefirsttreeIcameacross——neverforamomentgivingathoughtastoitsspecies，——andpreparedtomeetthedeathInowferventlydesired。HadYamba，too，givenup，theselineswouldneverhavebeenwritten。Amazingtorelate，shekeptcomparativelywellandactive，thoughwithoutwater；andinmymostviolentparoxysmshewouldpounceuponalizardorarat，andgivemeitswarmbloodtodrink，whileyetitlived。Thenshewouldmasticateapieceofiguanafleshandgiveittomeinmymouth，butIwasquiteunabletoswallowit，greatlytoherdisappointment。ShemusthaveseenthatIwasslowlysinking，foratlastshestoopeddownandwhisperedearnestlyinmyearthatshewouldleavemeforalittlewhile，andgooffinsearchofwater。

Likeadreamitcomesbacktomehowsheexplainedthatshehadseensomebirdspassingoverhead，andthatifshefollowedinthesamedirectionshewasalmostcertaintoreachwatersoonerorlater。

Icouldnotreply；butIfeltitwasatrulyhopelessenterpriseonherpart。AndasIdidnotwanthertoleaveme，IrememberIheldoutmytomahawkfeeblytowardsher，andsignedtohertocomeandstrikemeontheheadwithitandsoputanendtomydreadfulagonies。Theheroiccreatureonlysmiledandshookherheademphatically。Shetooktheprofferedweapon，however，andafterputtingsomedistinguishingmarksonmytreewithit，shehurleditsomedistanceawayfromme。Shethenstoopedandproppedmeagainstthetrunkofthetree；andthenleavingmypoorsufferingdogtokeepmecompany，shesetoutonherlonelysearchwithlong，lopingstridesofamazingvigour。

Itwaslateintheafternoonwhenshetookherdeparture；andIlaytherehourafterhour，sometimesfranticallydelirious，andatothersinastateofsemi-consciousness，fancyingshewasbymysidewithshellsbrimmingoverwithdeliciouswater。Iwouldrousemyselfwithastartfromtimetotime，but，alas！myYambawasnotnearme。Duringthelonganddeathlystillnessofthenight，thedewcamedownheavily，andasitenvelopedmybed，Ifellintoasoundsleep，fromwhichIwasawakenedsomehourslaterbythesameclearandringingvoicethathadaddressedmeonthatstillnightonmyislandsand-spit。Outupontheimpressivestillnessoftheairrangtheearnestwords：“Coupel”arbre！Coupel”arbre！“

Iwasquiteconscious，andmuchrefreshedbymysleep，butthemessagepuzzledmeagreatdeal。AtfirstIthoughtitmusthavebeenYamba”svoice，butIrememberedthatshedidnotknowawordofFrench；andwhenIlookedroundtherewasnoonetobeseen。

Themysteriousmessagestillranginmyears，butIwasfartooweaktoattempttocutthetreemyself，Ilaythereinastateofinertdrowsinessuntil，rousingmyselfalittlebeforedawn，I

heardthefamiliarfootstepsofYambaapproachingthespotwhereI

lay。Herfaceexpressedanxiety，earnestness，andjoy。

Inhertremblinghandssheboreabiglilyleafcontainingtwoorthreeouncesoflife-givingwater。ThisIdrankwithgaspingeagerness，asyoumaysuppose。Mydeliriumhadnowentirelyleftme，althoughIwasstillunabletospeak。Isignedtohertocutthetree，asthevoiceinmydreamhaddirectedme。WithoutawordofquestionYambapickedupthetomahawkfromwhereshehadhurledit，andthencutvigorouslyintothetrunk，makingaholethreeorfourinchesdeep。Itmayseemastonishingtoyou，butitsurprisedmeinnowisewhenoutfromtheholethereTRICKLEDACLEAR，UNCERTAINSTREAMOFWATER，underwhichYambapromptlyheldmyfeveredhead。Thishadawonderfullyrefreshingeffectuponme，andinashorttimeIwasabletospeakfeeblybutrationally，greatlytothedelightofmyfaithfulcompanion。As，however，I

wasstilltooweaktomove，Iindulgedinanotherandfarsoundersleep。IdonotknowthescientificnameofthatwonderfulAustraliantreewhichsavedmylife，butbelieveitiswellknowntonaturalists。Ihavehearditcalledthe“bottletree，“fromtheshapeofthetrunk。Allthroughthatterriblenight，whileYambawasfarawaysearchingforwater，Brunohadneverleftmyside，lookingintomyfacewistfully，andoccasionallylickingmybodysympatheticallywithhispoor，parchedtongue。WhilstIwasasleepthesecondtime，Yambawentoffwiththedoginsearchoffood，andreturnedwithayoungopossum，whichwassoonfrizzlinginanappetisingwayonatripodofsticksoverablazingfire。Iwasabletoeatalittleoftheflesh，andweobtainedallthewaterwewantedfromourwonderfultree。Ofcourse，Yambawasunacquaintedwiththefactthatwaterwasstoredinitsinterior。Asarule，herinstinctmightbedependeduponimplicitly；andevenafteryearsofhercompanionshipIusedtobefilledwithwonderatthewayinwhichshewouldtrackdowngameandfindhoney。Shewouldglanceatatreecasually，anddiscernonthebarkcertainminutescratches，whichwerequiteinvisibletome，evenwhenpointedout。

Shewouldthenclimbuplikeamonkey，andreturntothegroundwithagood-sizedopossum，whichwouldberoastedinitsskin，withmanydifferentvarietiesofdeliciousroots。

WhenIhadquiterecovered，Yambatoldmeshehadwalkedmanymilesduringthenight，andhadfinallydiscoveredawater-holeinanewcountry，forwhichshesaidwemustmakeassoonasIwassufficientlystrong。Fortunatelythisdidnottakeverylong，andonreachingthebrinkofthewater-holewecampedbesideitforseveraldays，inordertorecuperate。Imustsaythatthewaterwefoundheredidnotlookveryinviting——itwas，infact，veryslimyandgreenincolour；butbythetimewetookourdeparturetherewasnotadropleft。Yambahadamethodoffiltrationwhichexcitedmyadmiration。Sheduganotherholealongsidetheonecontainingthewater，leavingafewinchesofearthbetweenthem，throughwhichthewaterwouldpercolate，andcollectinholeperfectlyfiltered。

Atothertimes，whennoordinaryhumanbeingcoulddetectthepresenceofwater，shewouldpointouttomealittleknobofclayonthegroundinanolddried-upwater-hole。This，shetoldme，denotedthepresenceofafrog，andshewouldatoncethrustdownareedabouteighteenincheslong，andinvitemetosucktheupperend，withtheresultthatIimbibedcopiousdraughtsofdeliciouswater。

Atthewater-holejustdescribedbirdswereratherplentiful，andwhentheycamedowntodrink，Yambaknockedthemoverwithoutdifficulty。Theymadeaverywelcomeadditiontoourdailybilloffare。Hermodeofcapturingthebirdswassimplicityitself。Shemadeherselfalongcoveringofgrassthatcompletelyenvelopedher，and，shroudedinthis，waitedattheedgeofthewater-holeforthebirdstocomeanddrink。Thensheknockedoverwithastickasmanyassherequired。Inthiswaywehadaverypleasantspellofrestforfourorfivedays。Continuingourjourneyoncemore，wepushedontillinaboutthreeweekswecametoawell-

woodedcountry，wheretheeucalyptusflourishedmightilyandwaterwasplentiful；butyet，strangetosay，therewasverylittlegameinthisregion。Soonafterthis，InoticedthatYambagrewalittleanxious，andsheexplainedthataswehadnotcomeacrossanykangarooslately，noranyblacks，itwasevidentthatthewetseasonwascomingon。Wethereforedecidedtosteerforhigherground，andaccordinglywentalmostduenorthforthenextfewdays，untilwereachedthebanksofabigriver——theRoperRiver，asIafterwardsfoundout——wherewethoughtitadvisabletocamp。

ThiswouldprobablybesometimeinthemonthofDecember。

OnedayIsawanumberofsmallsnakesswarmingroundthefootofatree，andwasjustabouttoknocksomeofthemoverwithmystick，whenYambacalledouttomeexcitedlynottomolestthem。Theythenbegantoclimbthetree，andsheexplainedthatthisclearlyindicatedtheadventofthewetseason。“Ididnotwishyoutokillthesnakes，“shesaid，“becauseIwantedtoseeiftheywouldtakerefugeinthetreesfromthecomingfloods。”

Uptothistime，however，therehadnotbeentheslightestindicationofanygreatchangeintheweather。Manymonthsmusthaveelapsedsincerainhadfallenintheseregions，fortheriverwasextremelylowbetweenitsextraordinarilyhighbanks，andthecountryallroundwasdryandparched；butevenaswewalked，aremarkablephenomenonoccurred，whichtoldofimpendingchanges。I

wasoppressedwithasenseofcomingevil。IlistenedintentlywhenYambarequestedmetodoso，butatfirstallIcouldhearwasacuriousrumblingsound，farawayinthedistance。Thisnoisegraduallyincreasedinvolume，andcamenearerandnearer，butstillIwasutterlyunabletoaccountforit。Ialsonoticedthattheriverwasbecomingstrangelyagitated，andwasswirlingalongatever-increasingspeed。Suddenlyanenormousmassofwatercamerushingdownwithafrightfulroar，inonesolidwave，andthenitdawneduponmethatitmusthavealreadycommencedraininginthehills，andthetributariesoftheriverwerenowsendingdowntheirfloodsintothemainstream，whichwasrisingwithastonishingrapidity。Inthecourseofacoupleofhoursithadrisenbetweenthirtyandfortyfeet。Yambaseemedalittleanxious，andsuggestedthatwehadbetterbuildahutonsomehighgroundandremainsecureinthatlocality，withoutattemptingtocontinueourmarchwhiletherainslasted；anditwasevidenttheywerenowuponus。

Wethereforesettoworktoconstructacomfortablelittleshelterofbark，fastenedtoaframeworkofpolesbymeansofcreepersandclimbingplants。Thus，bythetimethedelugewasfairlyuponus，wewerequitesnuglyensconced。Wedidnot，however，remainin-

doorsthroughoutthewholeoftheday，butwentinandout，huntingforfoodandcatchinggamejustasusual；thetorrentialrainwhichbeatdownuponournakedbodiesbeingratherapleasantexperiencethanotherwise。Atthistimewehadawelcomeadditiontoourfoodintheformofcabbage-palmsandwildhoney。Wealsostartedbuildingacatamaran，withwhichtonavigatetheriverwhenthefloodshadsubsided。Yambaprocuredafewtrunksofverylighttimber，andthesewefastenedtogetherwithlongpinsofhardwood，andthenboundthemstillmorefirmlytogetherwithstripsofkangaroohide。Wealsocollectedastockofprovisionstotakewithus——kangarooandopossummeat，ofcourse；butprincipallywildhoney，cabbage-palm，androotsofvariouskinds。Thesepreparationstookusseveraldays，andbythetimewehadarrangedeverythingforourjourneytheweatherhadbecomesettledoncemore。YambaremarkedtomethatifwesimplydrifteddowntheRoperRiverweshouldbecarriedtotheopensea；norwouldwebeverylong，sincetheswollencurrentwasnowrunninglikeamill-

race。Ourcatamaran，ofcourse，affordednoshelterofanykind，butwecarriedsomesheetsofbarktoformseatsforourselvesandthedog。

Atlengthwepushedoffonoureventfulvoyage，andnosoonerhadwegotfairlyintothecurrentthanwewerecarriedalongwithprodigiousrapidity，andwithouttheleastexertiononourpart，exceptinthematterofsteering。Thiswasdonebymeansofpaddlesfromthesideofthecraft。WemadesuchrapidprogressthatIfeltinclinedtogoonallnight，butshortlyafterduskYambapersuadedmetopullin-shoreandcamponthebankuntilmorning，becauseofthedangeroftravellingatnightamongthelogsandotherwreckagethatfloatedaboutonthesurfaceofthewater。

Wepassedanynumberofsubmergedtrees，andonseveralofthesefoundsnakescoiledamongthebranches。Someofthesereptileswecaughtandate。Aboutthemiddleoftheseconddayweheardatremendousroarahead，asthoughtherewererapidsinthebedoftheriver。Itwasnowimpossibletopullthecatamaranoutofitscourse，nomatterhowhardwemighthavestriven，thecurrentbeingabsolutelyirresistible。Thebanksnarrowedastherapidswerereached，withtheresultthatthewaterinthemiddleactuallybecameCONVEX，sotremendouswastherushinthatnarrowgorge。

Yambacriedouttometolieflatonthecatamaran，andholdonastightlyasIcoulduntilwereachedsmoothwateragain。Thisshedidherself，seizingholdofthedogalso。

Nearerandnearerwewereswepttothegreatseethingcaldronofboilingandfoamingwaters，andatlast，withatremendoussplashweenteredtheterrifyingcommotion。Wewentrightunder，andsogreatwastheforceofthewater，thathadInotbeenclingingtenaciouslytothecatamaranImustinfalliblyhavebeensweptawaytocertaindeath。Presently，however，weshotintolesstroubledwatersandthencontinuedourcourse，verylittletheworseforhavingbravedtheseterriblerapids。Hadourcraftbeenadug-outboat，asIoriginallyintendedittobe，wemustinevitablyhavebeenswamped。Againwecampedonshorethatnight，andwereoffatanearlyhournextmorning。Asweglidedswiftlyon，Inoticedthattheriverseemedtobegrowingtremendouslywide。Yambaexplainedthatwewerenowgettingintoveryflatcountry，andthereforethegreatstretchofwaterwasamereflood。Shealsoprophesiedaratherbadtimeforus，asweshouldnotbeabletogoashoreatnightandreplenishourstockofprovisions。Fortunatelywehadasufficientsupplywithusonthecatamarantolastatleasttwoorthreedayslonger。ThelasttimewelandedYambahadstockedanadditionalquantityofediblerootsandsmokedmeats，andalthoughwelostaconsiderableportionoftheseinshootingtherapids，therestillremainedenoughforafewdays”supply。

Inconsequenceoftheever-increasingwidthoftheriver，Ifounditadifficultmattertokeepinthechannelwherethecurrentwas，soIgaveupthesteeringpaddletoYamba，whoseemedinstinctivelytoknowwhatcoursetotake。

Onandonwewent，untilatlengththewholecountryasfarastheeyecouldreachwasonevastsea，extendingvirtuallytothehorizon；itssluggishsurfaceonlybrokenbythetopsofthesubmergedtrees。Onedaywesightedanumberoflittleisletssomedistanceahead，andthenwefeltwemustbenearingthemouthoftheriver。Thelastdayortwohadbeenfullofanxietyandinconvenienceforus，forwehadbeensimplydriftingaimlesslyon，withoutbeingabletolandandstretchourcrampedlimbsorindulgeinacomfortablesleep。Thusthesightoftheislandswasagreatrelieftous，andmyever-faithfulandconsideratecompanionremarkedthataswehadnothingtofearnow，andIwaswearywithmyvigilofthepreviousnight，Ihadbettertryandgetalittlesleep。AccordinglyIlaydownonthecatamaran，andhadbarelyextendedmylimbswhenIfellfastasleep。Iawoketwoorthreehourslater，atmid-day，andwassurprisedtofindthatourcatamaranwasnotmoving。Iraisedmyselfup，onlytofindthatwehadapparentlydriftedamongthetopsofaringoftreesrisingfromasubmergedisland。“Halloa！“IsaidtoYamba，“arewestuck？““No，“sherepliedquietly，“butlookround。”

YoumayjudgeofmyhorrorandamazementwhenIsawoutsidethecuriousringoftree-tops，scoresofhugealligatorspeeringatuswithhorridstoliditythroughthebranches，someofthemsnappingtheircapaciousjawswithaviciousnessthatleftnodoubtastoitsmeaning。Yambaexplainedtomethatshehadbeenobligedtotakerefugeinthispeculiarbutconvenientshelter，becausethealligatorsseemedtobeswarminginvastnumbersinthatpartoftheriver。Shehadeasilyforcedawayforthecatamaranthroughthebranches，andoncepast，haddrawnthemtogetheragain。Theferociousmonsterscouldcertainlyhaveforcedtheirwayintotheinclosureafterus，buttheydidn”tseemtorealisethatsuchathingwaspossible，apparentlybeingquitecontenttoremainoutside。Judge，then，ourpositionforyourself——withascantyfoodsupply，onafrailplatformoflogs，floatingamongthetree-

tops，andliterallybesiegedbycrowdsofloathsomealligators！

Nordidweknowhowlongourimprisonmentwaslikelytolast。Ourpoordog，too，wasterriblyfrightened，andsatwhiningandtremblinginamostpitiablewayinspiteofreassuringwordsandcaressesfromYambaandmyself。IconfessthatIwasverymuchalarmed，forthemonsterswouldoccasionallyemitamostpeculiarandterrifyingsound——notunliketheroarofalion。Hourafterhourwesatthereontheswayingcatamaran，prayingferventlythatthehideousreptilesmightleaveus，andletuscontinueourjourneyinpeace。Asdarknessbegantodescenduponthevastwasteofwaters，itoccurredtometomakeabolddashthroughtheserriedranksofourbesiegers，butYambarestrainedme，tellingmeitmeantcertaindeathtoattempttorunthegantletundersuchfearsomecircumstances。

Nightcameon。HowcanIdescribeitshorrors？EvenasIwrite，I

seemtoheartheceaselessroarsofthosehorriblecreatures，andtheweirdbutgentlelappingsofthelimitlesswastethatextendedasfarastheeyecouldreach。OftenIwastemptedtogiveupindespair，feelingthattherewasnohopewhateverforus。Towardsmorning，however，thealligatorsapparentlygotonthescentofsomefloatingcarcassesbroughtdownbythefloods，andoneandallleftus。Somelittletimeafterthelastuglyheadhadgoneunder，thecatamaranwassweepingswiftlyandnoiselesslydownthestreamagain。

Wemadestraightforalittleislandsomedistanceaheadofus，andfoundituninhabited。Blackandwhitebirds，notquitesolargeaspigeons，wereveryplentiful，asalsowereeggs。SoonmyYambahadanicemealreadyforme，andthenwelaydownforamuch-neededrest。Afterthiswesteeredforalargeislandsomenineortenmilesdistant，andasweapproachedwecouldseethatthisoneWAS

inhabited，fromthesmoke-signalsthenativessentupthemomenttheycaughtsightofus。

Aswecamenearerwecouldseetheblacksassemblingonthebeachtomeetus，but，farfromshowinganyfriendliness，theyheldtheirspearspoisedthreateningly，andwouldnodoubthavethrownthemhadInotsuddenlyjumpedtomyfeetandmadesignsthatIwishedtositdownwiththem——toparleywiththem。Theythenloweredtheirspears，andwelanded；buttomygreatdisappointmentneitherYambanorIcouldunderstandonewordoftheirlanguage，whichwastotallydifferentfromthedialectofYamba”scountry。Ourfirstmeetingwasconductedintheusualway——squattingdownonourhaunches，andthendrawingnearerandneareruntilwewereabletorubnosesononeanother”sshoulders。IthenexplainedbymeansofsignsthatIwantedtostaywiththemafewdays，andIwasinexpressiblyrelievedtofindthatmylittlepassportstick(whichneverleftmypossessionforamoment)，wasrecognisedatonce，andprovedmostefficaciousgenerally。AfterthisIbecamemorefriendlywithmyhosts，andtoldthembysignsthatIwaslookingforwhitepeoplelikemyself，whereupontheyrepliedIshouldhavetogostillfarthersouthtofindthem。Theytookustotheircamp，andprovideduswithfood，consistingmainlyoffish，shell-

fish，androots。SofarasIcouldascertain，therewerenokangaroooropossumontheisland。Aftertwoorthreedays，I

thoughtittimetobecontinuingourjourney；butfeelingconvincedthatImustbeinthevicinityoftheCapeYorkPeninsula——insteadofbeingonthewestcoastoftheGulfofCarpentaria——Idecidednottogosouthatall，buttostrikeduenorth，whereIfeltcertainSomersetPointlay；andIalsoresolvedtotravelbyseathistime，theblackshavingpresentedmewithaveryunsubstantial“dug-out“canoe。Leavingbehindusthecatamaranthathadbroughtussomanyhundredsofmiles，wesetoutonourtravelsoncemore——

takingcare，however，nevertolosesightofthecoast-lineonaccountofourfrailcraft。Wepassedseveralbeautifulislands，bigandlittle，andononethatwelandedIcameacrosssomenativechalkdrawingsonthefaceoftherock。Theydepictedrudefiguresofmen——Idon”trememberanyanimals——butwerenotnearlysowelldoneasthedrawingsIhadseenincavesupintheCapeLondonderrydistrict。

Wealsolandedfromtimetotimeonthemainland，andspokewiththechiefsofvarioustribes。Theywereallhostileatfirst。OnoneoccasionweactuallymetoneortwoblackswhospokeafewwordsofEnglish。Theyhadevidentlybeenoutwithpearlersatsometimeintheirlives，buthadreturnedtotheirnativewildsmanyyearsbeforeourvisit。Iaskedthemiftheyknewwherewhitemenweretobefound，andtheypointedeast(CapeYork)，andalsoindicatedthatthewhitesweremanymoons”journeyawayfromus。I

wassorelypuzzled。AglanceatamapofAustraliawillenablethereadertorealisemygreatblunder。IgnorantalmostofAustraliangeographyIfancied，onreachingthewesternshoresoftheGulfofCarpentaria，thatIhadstrucktheCoralSea，andthatallIhadtodowastostrikenorthtoreachSomerset，thewhitesettlementI

hadheardaboutfromthepearlers。IfeltsoconfidentCapeYorklayimmediatelytothenorth，thatIcontinuedmycourseinthatdirection，paddlingalldayandrunningin-shoretocampatnight。

Welivedmainlyonshell-fishandsea-birds”eggsatthistime，andaltogetherlifebecameterriblywearisomeandmonotonous。This，however，wasmainlyowingtomyanxiety。

AboutafortnightafterleavingthemouthoftheRoperRiverwecametoaplacewhichInowknowtobePointDale。WethensteeredsouthintoabeautifullandlockedpassagewhichliesbetweenthemainlandandElchoIsland，andwhichatthetimeItooktobethelittlestraitrunningbetweenAlbanyIslandandCapeYork。I

steeredsouth-westinconsequence；andafteratime，asIdidnotsightthepointsIwasonthelook-outfor，Ifeltcompletelynonplused。WelandedonElchoIslandandspentadayortwothere。

BeingstillundertheimpressionthatCapeYorkwashigherup，I

steeredwest，andsoonfoundmyselfinaveryunpleasantregion。

Weexploredalmosteverybayandinletwecameacross，butofcoursealwayswiththesamedishearteningresult。Sometimeswewouldcomenearbeingstrandedonasandbank，andwouldhavetojumpoverboardandpushourcraftintodeeperwater。Atothers，shewouldbealmostswampedinaroughsea，butstillwestucktoourtask，andafterpassingGoulbournIslandwefollowedthecoast。

Thenwestrucknorthuntilwegotamongagroupofislands，andcametoCrokerIsland，whichgoesdirectnorthandsouth。Dayafterdaywekeptdoggedlyon，huggingtheshoreveryclosely，goinginandoutofeverybay，andvisitingalmosteveryisland，yetneverseeingasinglehumanbeing。Wewereapparentlystillmanyhundredsofmilesawayfromourdestination。Toaddtothewretchednessofthesituation，mypoorYamba，whohadbeensodevoted，sohardy，andsocontented，atlengthbegantomanifestsymptomsofillness，andcomplainedgentlyofthewearinessofitall。“Youarelooking，“shewouldsay，“foraplacethatdoesnotexist。Youarelookingforfriendsofwhoseveryexistenceyouareunaware。”Iwouldnotgivein，however，andpersuadedherthatallwouldbewellintime，ifonlyshewouldcontinuetobearwithme。

Bothofuswereterriblycrampedintheboat；andbywayofexerciseoneortheotherwouldoccasionallyjumpoverboardandhavealongswim。Wheneverwecouldwelandedatnight。

Onemorning，shortlyafterwehadbegunourusualtripfortheday，andwereroundingaheadland，Iwasalmoststupefiedtobeholdinfrontofmethemastsofaboat(whichIafterwardsfoundtobeaMalayproa)，closein-shore。Thesituation，inreality，wasbetweenCroker”sIslandandthemain，butatthetimeIthoughtthatIhadatlengthreachedSomerset。Isprangtomyfeetinastateofthegreatestexcitement。“ThankGod！thankGod！“I

shoutedtoYamba；“wearesavedatlast！——saved——saved——saved！“AsIshouted，Ipulledthecanoeroundandmadeforthevesselwithallpossibledespatch。Weverysooncameupwithher，andfoundheralmoststranded，inconsequenceofthelownessofthetide。I

promptlyclamberedaboard，butfailedtofindasoul。Ithoughtthisratherstrange，butasIcouldseeahutnotveryfaraway，closetothebeach，Isteeredtowardsit。Thislittledwelling，too，wasuninhabited，thoughIfoundanumberoftraysoffishlyingabout，whichafterwardsIfoundtobebeche-de-merbeingdriedandsmoked。Suddenly，whileYambaandIwereinvestigatingtheinteriorofthehut，anumberofMalaysunexpectedlyappearedonthescene，andIthenrealisedIhadhadthegoodfortunetocomeacrossaMalaybeche-de-merexpedition。

ThefishermenwereexceedinglysurprisedatseeingYambaandme；

butwhentheyfoundIcouldspeaktheirlanguagealittletheyevincedeverysignofdelight，andforthwithentertainedusmosthospitablyonboardtheircraft，whichwasaboatoftenorfifteentons。TheytoldmetheyhadcomefromtheDutchislandssouthofTimor，andpromptlymademeanofferthatsetmyheartbeatingwildly。TheysaidtheywerepreparedtotakemebacktoKopang，ifIwished；andI，onmypart，offeredtogivethemallthepearlshellsleftonmylittleislandintheSeaofTimor——thelatitudeofwhichItookgoodcarenottodivulge——onconditionthattheycalledthere。TheyevenofferedYambaapassagealongwithme；

but，tomyamazementandbitterdisappointment，shesaidshedidnotwishtogowiththem。Shetrembledasthoughwithfear。Shewasafraidthatwhenoncewewereonboard，theMalayswouldkillmeandkeepher。

OneotherreasonforthisfearIknew，butitinnowaymitigatedmyacutegriefatbeingobligedtodeclinewhatwouldprobablybemyonlychanceofreturningtocivilisation。ForthisIhadpineddayandnightforfourorfiveyears，andnowthatescapewaswithinmygraspIwasobligedtothrowitaway。Forletmeemphaticallystate，thatevenifcivilisationhadbeenbutamileaway，Iwouldnothavegoneayardtowardsitwithoutthatdevotedcreaturewhohadbeenmysalvation，notononeoccasiononly，butpracticallyeverymomentofmyexistence。

WithpassionateeagernessItriedtopersuadeYambatochangehermind，butsheremainedfirminherdecision；andso，almostchokingwithbitterregret，andinastateofuttercollapse，IhadtodeclinetheofferoftheMalays。Westayedwiththem，however，afewweekslonger，andatlengththeyaccompaniedmetoacampofblackfellowsnearsomelagoons，alittlewayfarthersouthoftheirowncamp。Beforetheyleft，theypresentedmewithaquantityofbeche-de-mer，orsea-slugs，whichmakemostexcellentsoup。AttheplaceindicatedbytheMalays，whichwasinRafflesBay，thechiefspokequiteexcellentEnglish。OneofhiswivescouldevensaytheLord”sPrayerinEnglish，though，ofcourse，shedidnotknowwhatshewastalkingabout。“CaptainJackDavis，“ashecalledhimself，hadbeenforsomelittletimeononeofherMajesty”sships，andhetoldmethatnotmanymarchesawaytherewasanoldEuropeansettlement；heevenofferedtoguidemethere，ifIcaredtogo。HefirstledmetoanoldwhitesettlementinRafflesBay，called，Ithink，FortWellington，whereIfoundsomelargefruit-trees，includingripeyellowmangoes。Therewere，besides，raspberries，strawberries，andCapegooseberries。

Needlesstoremark，allthismademeveryhappyandcontented，forIfeltImustnowbegettingnearthehomeofsomewhitemen。I

thoughtthat，afterall，perhapsYamba”srefusaltogowiththeMalayswasforthebest，andwithhighhopesIsetoutwithCaptainDavisforanothersettlementhespokeof。ThisturnedouttobePortEssington，whichwereachedintwoorthreedays。Anothercruelblowwasdealtmehere。

Youcanperhapsformsomeideaofmypoignantdismayanddisappointmentonfindingthatthisdreary-lookingplaceofswampsandmarsheswasquitedeserted，althoughtherewerestillanumberofruinedbrickhouses，gardens，andorchardsthere。TheblackstoldmethatatonetimeithadbeenoneofthemostimportantpenalsettlementsinAustralia，buthadtobeabandonedonaccountoftheprevalenceofmalarialfeverarisingfromtheswampsintheneighbourhood。Icameacrossanumberofgraves，whichwereevidentlythoseoftheexiledsettlers；andoneofthewoodenheadstonesborethenameofCaptainHill(Ithinkthatwasthename)。Ihaveanideathatthefenceroundthisoldcemeterystillremained。Therewasfoodinabundanceatthisplace——raspberries，bananas，andmangoesgrewinprofusion；whilstthemarsheswereinhabitedbyvastflocksofgeese，ducks，whiteibis，andotherwild-fowl。Indeedintheswampsthebirdsroseinsuchprodigiousnumbersasactuallytoobscurethefaceofthesun。HereforthefirsttimeIsawweb-footedbirdsperchedintrees。

Theblackshadaverypeculiarmethodofcatchingwater-fowl。Theywouldsimplywadethroughthereedsintothewateralmostuptotheirnecks，andthencovertheirheadswithahandfulofreeds。

Remainingperfectlystill，theywouldimitatethecryofdifferentwild-fowl。Thenataconvenientopportunity，theywouldsimplyseizeagooseoraduckbytheleg，anddragitdownunderthewateruntilitwasdrowned。Thenumberofwater-fowlcaughtinthiswaybyasingleblackfellowwastrulyastonishing。

AfterhavingremainedafortnightatPortEssingtonitself，wereturnedtoRafflesBay，whereYambaandImadeacampamongtheblacksandtookupourresidenceamongthem；forCaptainDavishadtoldmethatshipscalledthereoccasionally，anditwaspossiblethatonemightcallsoonfromPortDarwin。Thevessels，headded，cameforbuffalomeat——ofwhichmorehereafter。Ihaddecidedtoremainamongthesepeoplesomelittletime，becausetheyknewsomuchaboutEuropeans，andIfeltsureofpickingupknowledgewhichwouldproveusefultome。

CHAPTERVIII

Inthethroesoffever——Aghastlydiscovery——Pitifulrelics——A

criticalmoment——Yambaindanger——Abloodbath——Aluxuryindeed——

Signsofcivilisation——Thegreatstorm——Drifting，drifting——Yamba”smysteriousglee——Adreadfulshock”Welcomehome！“——Myofficialprotectors——Myselfasacannibalwarchief——Preparationsforbattle——Aweirdapparition——Generositytothevanquished——Theolddesire。

Ihadnotbeenestablishedinthiscampmanydays，however，beforeIwasstruckdown，forthefirsttime，withaterribleattackofmalarialfever，probablyproducedbythemanyhoursIhadspentwadingintheswampsatPortEssington。Thereweretheusualsymptoms——quickflushingsandfeverheats，followedbyviolentfitsofshivering，whichnoamountofnaturalwarmthcouldmitigate。MyfaithfulYambawasterriblydistressedatmycondition，andwaiteduponmewithmosttenderdevotion；butinspiteofallthatcouldbedoneforme，Igrewgraduallyweaker，untilinthecourseofafewdaysIbecamewildlydelirious。Theblacks，too，wereverygoodtome，anddoctoredme，intheirquaintnativeway，withcertainleavesandpowders。Alltonopurpose，however；andforseveraldaysIwasevenunabletorecognisemyYamba。Thenthefeversubsidedsomewhat，andIwasleftasweakandhelplessasalittlechild。

ItwassometimebeforeIquiterecoveredfromthefever；andIwasfrequentlyseizedwithdistressingfitsofshivering。Ialsoexperiencedanoverwhelmingdesireforadrinkofmilk；why，Iamunabletosay。Therefore，whensomeoftheblackstoldmethatwildbuffaloweretobefoundintheneighbourhood——beastswhichhadformerlybelongedtosettlers，butwerenowrunwild——I

resolved，whensufficientlystrong，totryandcaptureoneofthecowsforthesakeofitsmilk。CaptainDavisridiculedtheidea，andassuredmethatitwasonlypossibletoslayonewitharifle；

butIdeterminedtoseewhatIcoulddo。

Yamba，ofcourse，accompaniedmeonmyexpedition，andherbushmanshipwasaltogetherquiteindispensable。Wecameuponbuffalotracksnearalargewater-hole，andhereweeachclimbedagum-treeandawaitedthearrivalofourprey。Wewaitedalongtime，butwereatlengthrewardedbyseeingabigcowbuffaloandhercalfwanderingleisurelyinourdirection。Myonlyweaponswerealassomadeoutofgreenkangaroohide，fixedtotheendofalongpole；andmybowandarrows。Isliddownthetreealittleway，andwhenthecalfwasnearenough，Igentlyslippedthenooseoveritsneck，andpromptlymadeitaprisonerundertheverynoseofitsastonishedmother，whobellowedmournfully。MysuccesssoelatedYambathatshe，too，sliddownfromherhiding-place，andwasmakingherwayovertomeandthecalf，whensuddenlyanenormousbull，whichwehadnotpreviouslyseen，rushedatheratfullspeed。Yambainstantlyrealisedherdanger，andswarmedupatreeagainlikelightning，justasthegreatbrutewasuponher。I

calledouttohertoattracttheattentionoftheoldbullwhilstI

attendedtothemotherandcalf。Idroppedmypoletowhichthelassowasattached，andallowedthelittleonetowalkquicklyawaywithit；but，asIanticipated，thetrailingshaftsooncaughtbetweenthestumpsofsometrees，andmadethecalfamoresecureprisonerthanever。Itwasacuriousrepetitionofthestoryofthetwowhales。Themotherwalkedroundandround，andappearedtobeinthegreatestdistress。Sheneverleftherlittleone”sside，butcontinuedtobellowloudly，andlickthecalftocoaxitaway。

Quietlyslidingdownmytree，ImademywaytowhereYambawasstillholdingtheattentionofthebull——afierybrutewhowaspawingthegroundwithrageatthefootofhertree。Ihadfittedanarrowtomybow，andwaspreparingtoshoot，when，unfortunately，thebulldetectedthenoiseofmyapproach，andrushedstraightatme。Iconfessitwasratheratryingmoment，butIneverlostmyhead，feelingconfidentofmyskillwiththebow——whichIhadpractisedoffandoneversinceIhadleftschoolatMontreux。Iactuallywaiteduntilthechargingmonsterwaswithinafewpaces，andthenIletfly。Soclosewashethatnotmuchcreditisduetomeforaccurateaim。Thearrowfairlytransfixedhisrighteye，causinghimtopulluponhishaunches，androarwithpain。

Yamba，fullofanxiety，hurrieddownhertree；butshehadscarcelyreachedthegroundwhenthebaffledbullwheeledandchargedher，withmorefurythanever。Shesimplyglidedbehindatree，andthenIshowedmyselfandinducedthebulltochargemeoncemore。

AgainIwaiteduntilhewasalmostuponme，andthenIsentanotherarrowintohisothereye，blindinghimcompletely。Onthis，thepoorbrutebroughtupsharp，andcommencedtobackinanuncertainway，bellowingwithpain。Iforgotallmyfeverintheexcitement，andrushinguponthebeastwithmytomahawk，Idealthimablowonthesideoftheheadthatmadehimstagger。Ibroughthimtotheearthwithtwoorthreemoreblows，andafewminuteslaterhadadministeredthecoup-de-grace。NosoonerwasthebigbulldeadthanIdeterminedtotesttheefficacyofaverypopularnativeremedyforfever——forshiveringfitsstillcontinuedtocomeuponmeatmostawkwardtimes，usuallylateintheday。NomatterhowmuchgrasspoorYambabroughtmeascovering，Inevercouldgetwarm，andsonowIthoughtIwouldtrysomeanimalheat。

ScarcehadlifeleftthebodyoftheprostratebullbeforeIrippedopenthecarcassbetweentheforeandhindlegs；andafterremarkingtoYamba，“Iamgoingtohaveheatthistime，“Icrawledintotheinterior。Myhead，however，wasprotrudingfromthebuffalo”schest。YambaunderstoodperfectlywellwhatIwasdoing；

andwhenItoldherIwasgoingtoindulgeinalongsleepinmycuriousresting-place，shesaidshewouldkeepwatchandseethatI

wasnotdisturbed。Iremainedburiedinthebull”sinteriorfortherestofthedayandallthroughthenight。Nextmorning，tomyamazement，IfoundIwasaprisoner，thecarcasshavinggotcoldandrigid，sothatIhadliterallytobedugout。AsIemergedI

presentedamostghastlyandhorrifyingspectacle。Mybodywascoveredwithcongealedblood，andevenmylonghairwasallmattedandstiffenedwithit。ButnevercanIforgetthefeelingofexhilarationandstrengththattookpossessionofmeasIstoodtherelookingatmyfaithfulcompanion。IWASABSOLUTELYCURED——anewman，agiantofstrength！Imakeapresentofthecuretothemedicalprofession。

WithoutdelayImademywaydowntothelagoonandwashedmyselfthoroughly，scrubbingmyselfwithakindofsoapyclay，andafterwardstakingaruninordertogetdry。Thisextraordinarysystemofapplyingthecarcassofafreshlykilledanimalisinvariablyresortedtobythenativesincaseofseriousillness，andtheylookuponitasanallbutinfalliblecure。Certainlyitwassurprisinglyefficaciousinmyowncase。

Nextdaywedirectedourattentiontothecaptureofthecow，whichwasstillwanderingaroundherimprisonedlittleone，andonlyleavingitforafewminutesatatimeinordertogetfood。I

constructedasmallfenceorinclosureofsticks，andintothiswemanagedtodrivethecow。Wethenkeptherfortwodayswithoutfoodandwater，inordertotameher，anddidnotevenletherlittlecalfcomenearher。Wethenapproachedher，andfoundherperfectlysubdued，andwillingtotakefoodandwaterfromuspreciselyasthoughshewerethegentlestAlderney。

IfoundIwasevenabletomilkher；andIcanassureyouthatI

nevertastedanythingmoredeliciousinmylifethanthecopiousdroughtsoffreshmilkIindulgedinonthateventfulmorning。Infact，Ipracticallylivedonnothingelseforthenextfewdays，anditpulledmeroundinamostsurprisingway。ThefleshofthedeadbuffaloIdidnottouchmyself，buthandeditovertotheblacks，whowerevastlyimpressedbymyprowessasamightyhunter。

Theythemselveshadoftentriedtokillbuffalowiththeirspears，buthadneversucceeded。Iremovedthebull”shide，andmadeabigrugoutofit，whichIfoundveryserviceableindeedinsubsequentwetseasons。Itwasashardasaboard，andnearlyhalfaninchthick。

WhenIreturnedto“CaptainDavis“andtherestofmyfriendsatRafflesBay，Iwasquitewellandstrongoncemore，andIstayedwiththemthreeorfourmonths，huntingalmosteveryday(therewereevenwildponiesandEnglishcattle——ofcourse，relicsoftheoldsettlement)，andpickingupalltheinformationIcould。IhadmanyconversationswithDavishimself，andhetoldmethatIshouldprobablyfindwhitemenatPortDarwin，whichhesaidwasbetweenthreeandfourhundredmilesaway。ThetribeatPortEssington，I

maymention，onlynumberedaboutfiftysouls。Thiswasabouttheyear1868。CaptainDavis——whowaspassionatelyfondoftobacco，andwouldtravelalmostanydistancetoobtainanounceortwofromtheMalaybeche-de-merfishers——pointedouttomeablazedtreenearhiscamponwhichthefollowinginscriptionwascut：-

LUDWIGLEICHHARDT，OverlandfromSydney，1847。

Itwasthereforeevidentthatthisdistricthadalreadybeenvisitedbyawhiteman；andthefactthathehadcomeoverlandfilledmewithhopesthatsomedayI，too，mightreturntocivilisationinthesameway。TheEnglish-speakingblackchiefassuredmethathisfatherhadactedasguidetoLeichhardt，butwhetherthelattergotbacksafelytoSydneyagainheneverknew。

Thewhitetraveller，hesaid，leftPortEssingtoninaship。

Havingconsideredallthings，IdecidedtoattempttoreachPortDarwinbyboat，inthehopeoffindingEuropeanslivingthere。Atfirst，Ithoughtofgoingoverland，butindiscussingmyplanswith“CaptainDavis，“hetoldmethatIwouldhavetocrossswamps，fords，creeks，andrivers，someofwhichwerealivewithalligators。Headvisedmetogobywater，andalsotoldmetobecarefulnottobedrawnintoacertainlargebayIshouldcomeacross，becauseofthealligatorsthatswarmedonitsshores。Thebaythathewarnedmeagainstwas，Ithink，VanDieman”sGulf。Hetoldmetokeepstraightacrossthebay，andthenpassbetweenMelvilleIslandandthemain。Hefittedmeoutwithagoodstockofprovisions，includingaquantityofbeche-de-mer，cabbage-palm，fruit，&c。Iarrangedmybuffaloskinovermyprovisionsasaprotection，turtle-backfashion。Ourpreparationscompleted，YambaandIandthedogpushedoutintotheunknownseainourfrailcanoe，whichwasonlyaboutfifteenfeetlongandfourteenincheswide。Ofcourse，wekeptclosein-shoreallthetime，andmadeprettygoodprogressuntilwepassedApsleyStrait，avoidingthehugeVanDieman”sGulf，withitsalligator-infestedriversandcreeks。WemusthavebeenclosetoPortDarwinwhen，withlittleornowarning，aterrificstormarose，andquicklycarriedusouttoseainasouth-westerlydirection。Inamomentourfraillittlecraftwaspartiallyswamped，andYambaandIwerecompelledtojumpoverboardandhangontothegunwaleoneithersidetopreventitfrombeingoverwhelmedaltogether。ThiswasaboutafortnightafterIleftCaptainDavis。Weknewthatifwewereswamped，allourbelongings，includingmypoorBruno，mylivegeese，water，andotherprovisions，wouldbelostintheragingsea。Thenightthatfollowedwasperhapsoneofthemostappallingexperiencesthateverbefellme；butIhadbythistimebecomesoinuredtoterribletrialsthatImerelytookitasamatterofcourse。

Imagineforyourselfthescene。Thegiantwavesarerollingmountainshigh；thedarknessofnightisgatheringroundusfast，andIandmyheroicwifeareimmersedinthetremendoussea，hangingonfordearlifetoalittledug-outcanoeonlyfourteenincheswide。Althoughweweresoonthoroughlyexhaustedwithourimmersioninthewater，wedarednotclimbaboard。WillitbebelievedthatALLNIGHTLONGwewerecompelledtoremaininthesea，clingingtothecanoe，halfdrowned，andtossedaboutliketheinsignificantatomswewereinthemidstofthestupendouswaves，whichwereliterallyablazewithphosphorescentlight？Oftenasthoseterriblehourscrawledby，IwouldhaveletgomyholdandgivenupaltogetherwereitnotforYamba”scheeryandencouragingvoice，whichIheardabovetheterrificroarofthestorm，pointingouttomehowmuchwehadbeenthroughalready，andhowmanyfearfuldangerswehadsafelyencounteredtogether。Itseemedtomeliketheendofeverything。Ithoughtofacertainpoemrelatingtoamaninadesperatesituation，written，Ibelieve，byanAmerican，whosenameIcouldnotremember。Itdescribedtheheart-breakingeffortsmadebyaslavetoobtainhisfreedom。Howbloodhoundswereputuponhistrack；howheisatlastcorneredinaswamp，andashelookshelplesslyupatthestarsheaskshimself，“Isitlife，orisitdeath？“AsIhungontothelittledug-out，chilledtotheverymarrow，andmorethanhalfdrownedbytheenormousseas，Irecalledthewholepoemandappliedtheslave”sremarkstomyself。“Canitbepossible，“Isaid，“afterallthestrugglesIhavemadeagainstvaryingfortune，thatIamtomeetdeathnow？“Iwasinabsolutedespair。TowardstheearlyhoursofthemorningYambaadvisedmetogetintothecanoeforaspell，butsheherselfremainedhangingontothegunwale，tryingtokeeptheheadofthelittlecanoebeforetheimmensewavesthatwerestillrunning。Iwasverycoldandstiff，andfounditdifficulttoclimbaboard。Asthemorningadvanced，theseabegantoabatesomewhat，andpresentlyYambajoinedmeinthecanoe。Wewere，however，unabletoshapeourcourseforanysetquarter，sincebythistimewewereoutofsightoflandaltogether，andhadnoteventheslightestideaastoourposition。

Allthatdaywedriftedaimlesslyabout，andthen，towardsevening，aperfectcalmsettledonthesea。Whenweweresomewhatrestedwepaddledoninadirectionwhereweconcludedlandmustlie(westeeredsouth-eastforthemain)；andinthecourseofafewhourswehadthesatisfactionofseeingalittlerockyisland，whichwepromptlymadeforandlandedupon。Hereweobtainedfoodinplentyintheformofbirds；butdrinking-waterwasnottobefoundanywhere，sowehadtofallbackonthesmallstockwealwayscarriedinskins。Judgingfromtheappearanceoftherocks，andthesmellthatpervadedtheplace，Iimaginedthatthismustbeaguanoisland。InowknewthatwewerenearPortDarwin，BUTASA

FACTWEHADPASSEDITINTHEGREATSTORM，WHILEWEWEREFIGHTING

FOROURLIVES。Wesleptontheislandthatnight，andfeltverymuchbetternextmorningwhenwestartedoutonourvoyageoncemore，visitingeverybayandinlet。Hope，too，begantoreassertitself，andIthoughtthatafterallwemightbeabletoreachPortDarwininspiteofthedistancewemusthavebeendrivenoutofourcourse。Severalislandsstuddedtheseathroughwhichwewerenowsteadilythreadingourway，andthateveningwelandedononeoftheseandcampedforthenight。Nextdaywewereoffagain，andastheweathercontinuedbeautifullyfinewemadesplendidprogress。

Oneeveningafewdaysafterthestorm，aswewereplacidlypaddlingaway，IsawYamba”sfacesuddenlybrightenwithalookI

hadneverseenonitbefore，andIfeltsurethispresagedsomeextraordinaryannouncement。Shewouldgazeupintotheheavenswithaquick，suddenmotion，andthenherintelligenteyeswouldsparklelikethestarsabove。Iquestionedher，butshemaintainedanunusualreserve，and，asIconcludedthatsheknewinstinctivelywewereapproachingPortDarwin，I，too，feltfullofjoyandpleasurethattheobjectofourgreatjourneywasatlengthabouttobeachieved。Alas！whatawaitedmewasonlythegreatestofalltheastoundingseriesofdisappointments——oneindeedsostunningastoplungemeintotheveryblackestdepthsofdespair。

Yambastillcontinuedtogazeupatthestars，andwhenatlengthshehadapparentlysatisfiedherselfuponacertainpoint，sheturnedtomewithashoutofexcitedlaughteranddelight，pointingfranticallyatacertainglowingstar。SeeingthatIwasstillpuzzledbyhermerriment，shecried，“Thatstarisoneyourememberwell。”Ireflectedforamoment，andthenthewholethingcametomelikeaflashoflightning。YAMBAWASAPPROACHINGHEROWNHOME

ONCEMORE——THEVERYPOINTFROMWHICHWEHADBOTHSTARTEDEIGHTEEN

MONTHSPREVIOUSLY！Inthestorm，asIhavealreadysaid，wehadpassedPortDarwinaltogether，havingbeendrivenouttosea。

Itellyou，myheartnearlyburstwhenIrecalledtheawfulprivationsandhardshipswehadbothexperiencedsorecently；andwhenIrealisedthatallthesethingshadbeenabsolutelyinvain，andthatoncemoremytremblinghopesweretobedashedtothegroundinthemostappallingmanner，Ifellbackintothecanoe，utterlycrushedwithhorrorandimpotentdisappointment。Wasthereeversoterribleanexperience？TakeamapofAustralia，andseeforyourselfmyfrightfulblunder——mistakingthewestcoastoftheGulfofCarpentariafortheeasternwatersoftheCapeYorkPeninsula，andthenblindlygropingnorthwardandwestwardinsearchofthesettlementofSomerset，whichinrealitylayhundredsofmilesnorth-eastofme。IwasunawareoftheveryexistenceofthegreatGulfofCarpentaria。Butwereitnotforhavinghadtosteernorthtogetoutofthewaterlessplains，Imightpossiblyhavereachedthenorth-easterncoastofthecontinentinduetime，avoidingtheRoperRiveraltogether。

Yambakneltbymysideandtriedtocomfortmeinherownsweet，quaintway，andshepicturedtome——scantconsolation——howgladherpeoplewouldbetohaveusbothbackamongstthemoncemore。ShealsourgedwhatagreatmanImightbeamongherpeopleifonlyI

wouldstayandmakemyhomewiththem。Evenhervoice，however，felldullyonmyears，forIwasfairlymadwithrageanddespair——

withmyself，fornothavinggoneoverlandtoPortDarwinfromPortEssington，as，indeed，IshouldmostcertainlyhavedonewereitnotthatDavishadassuredmethegreaterpartofthejourneylaythroughdeadlyswampsandcreeks，andgreatwatersswarmingwithalligators。IhadevenhadinmymindtheideaofattemptingtoREACHSYDNEYOVERLAND！butthoughtIwouldfirstofallseewhatfacilitiesinthewayofreachingcivilisationPortDarwinhadtooffer。Now，however，IwasbackagaininCambridgeGulf，——intheveryspotIhadleftayearandahalfago，andwhereIhadlandedwithmyfourblacksfromtheislandsand-spit。Butyou，myreaders，shalljudgeofmyfeelings。

Welandedonanislandatthemouthofthegulf，andYambamadesmoke-signalstoherfriendsonthemainland，tellingthemofourreturn。WeresolveditwouldneverdotoconfesswehadbeenDRIVENBACK。No，wehadroamedaboutandhadcomebacktoourdearfriendsofourownfree-will，feelingtherewasnoplacelikehome！

justthinkwhatarolethiswasformetoplay，——withmywholebeingthrillingwithanagonyofhelplessrageandbitterdisappointment。

Thistime，however，wedidnotwaitfortheblackstocomeoutandmeetus，butpaddledstraightforthebeach，wherethechiefsandallthetribewereassembledinreadinesstoreceiveus。Thefirstpoignantanguishbeingpassed，andthewarmthofwelcomebeingsocordialandexcessive(theycriedwithjoy)，Ibegantofeelalittleeasierinmymindandmoreresignedtoinexorablefate。Theusualceremonyofnose-rubbingonshoulderswasgonethrough，andalmosteverynativepresentexpressedhisorherindividualdelightatseeingusagain。Thentheybesiegeduswithquestions，forwewerenowgreattravellers。Aspacious“humpy“orhutwasbuiltwithoutdelay，andtheblacksviedwithoneanotherinbringingmethingswhichIsorelyneeded，suchasfish，turtles，roots，andeggs。

Thateveningacorroboreeonagiganticscalewasheldinmyhonour；andoneverysidetheblacksmanifestedgreatrejoicingatmyreturn，which，ofcourse，theyneverdreamedwasinvoluntary。

Humannatureis，asIfound，thesametheworldover，andonereasonformywarmwelcomewas，thatmyblackshadjustbeenseverelythrashedbyaneighbouringtribe，andwereconvincedthatifIwouldhelpthemtoretaliate，theycouldnotfailtoinflicttremendouspunishmentupontheirenemies。Bythistime，havingbecome，asIsaidbefore，somewhatresignedtomyfate，Iconsentedtoleadthemintheirnextbattle，onconditionthattwoshield-

bearerswereprovidedtoprotectmefromtheenemy”sspears。ThisbeingthefirsttimeIhadeverundertakenwaroperationswithmyfriends，Ideterminedthattheexperimentshouldrunnoriskoffailure，andthatmydignityshouldinnowaysuffer。Ideclared，firstofall，thatIwouldchooseasmyshield-bearersthetwomostexpertmeninthetribe。Therewasmuchcompetitionforthesehonouredposts，andmanywarriorsdemonstratedtheirskillbeforeme。

AtlengthIchosetwostalwartfellows，namedrespectivelyWarrigaandBommera，andeverydayforaweektheyconductedsometrialmanoeuvreswiththeirfriends。Therewouldbeakindofambushprepared，andflightsofspearswouldbehurledatme，onlytobewardedoffwithastonishingdexteritybymyalertattendants。AllIwasprovidedwithwasmysteeltomahawkandbowandarrows。I

neverreallybecameexpertwiththespearandshield，andIknewonlytoowellthatifIhandledtheseclumsilyIshouldimmediatelyloseprestigeamongtheblacks。

Afteraweekortwoofpracticeandshamcombats，Ifeltmyselfprettysafewithmytwoprotectors，andIthenbeganorganisinganarmytoleadagainsttheenemy。AltogetherIcollectedabout100

fightingmen，eacharmedwithabundleofthrowingspears，ashieldmadeoflightwood，andashort，heavywaddyorclubforuseatclosequarters。Wheneverythingwasinreadiness，Imarchedoffattheheadofmy“army“andinvadedtheenemy”scountry。Wewerefollowedbytheusualcrowdofwomen-folk，whosawtothecommissariatdepartmentanddidthetransportthemselves。Onthefirstdayout，wehadtofordalargestream——abranchoftheVictoriaRiver，Ithink——andatlengthreachedasuitableplaceinwhichtoengagetheenemy。Itisdifficultformetofixtheexactlocality，butIshouldjudgeittobebetweenMurchisonandNewcastleranges。Thecountryinwhichtheoperationstookplacewasafineopengrassyplain，thinlyskirtedwithtreesandwithmountainsalmostencirclingitinthedistance。

Ioughtheretodescribemypersonalappearanceonthisimportantday，when，forthefirsttime，Iposedasagreatchief，andledmypeopleintobattle，filledwiththesameenthusiasmthatanimatedthem。Myhairwasbuiltuponstripsofwhalebonetoaheightofnearlytwofeetfrommyhead，andwasdecoratedwithblackandwhitecockatoofeathers。Myface，whichhadnowbecomeverydarkfromexposuretothesun，wasdecoratedinfourcolours——yellow，white，black，andred。

Thereweretwoblack-and-whitearchedstripesacrosstheforehead，andayellowcurvinglineacrosseachcheekundertheeye。Ialsoworeafairlylongbeard，moustache，andside-whiskers。Therewerefourdifferent-colouredstripesoneacharm，whilstonthebodywerefourvari-colouredstripes，twooneachside；andalong，yellow，curvingstripeextendedacrossthestomach，belt-wise。

AroundmymiddleIworeakindofdoubleapronofemuskin，withfeathers。Therewereotherstripesofdifferent-colouredochresonmylegs，sothataltogetheryoumayimagineIpresentedaterrifyingappearance。Ofthis，however，Isoongrewquiteoblivious——afactwhichIafterwardshadoccasionbitterlytoregret。Itwere，indeed，wellformethatIhadonsubsequentoccasionsrealisedbetterthebizarrenatureofmyappearance，forhadIdonesoIwouldprobablyhavereachedcivilisationyearsbeforeIdid。

Atthisperiod，then，youfindmeafullyequippedwarchiefofthecannibalblacks，leadingthemontobattleattiredasoneoftheirownchiefsineveryrespect，andwithnearlyalltheirtribalmarksonmybody。Whenwereachedthebattle-ground，mymensentupsmoke-signalsofdefiance，announcingthefactofourinvasion，andchallengingtheenemytocomedownfromthemountainsandfightus。

Thischallengewaspromptlyrespondedtobyothersmoke-signals，butasatleastadaymustelapsebeforeourantagonistscouldarriveIspenttheintervalindevisingaplanofbattle——oddlyenough，onthelinesofafamoushistoricSwissencounteratGrandsonfiveorsixcenturiesago。

Iarrangedthatfiftyorsixtymen，undertheleadershipofachief，shouldoccupysomehighgroundinourrear，toformakindofambush。

Theywerealsotoactasareserve，andwereinstructedtocomerushingtoourassistancewhenIsignalledforthem，yellingouttheirweirdwar-cryof“Warra-hoo-oo，——warra-hoo-oo！“Iconcludedthatthisinitselfwouldstriketerrorintotheheartsofouropponents，whowereaccustomedtoseethewholeforceengagedatonetime，andknewnothingabouttroopsheldinreserve，ortacticsofanykindwhatsoever。Thenativemethodofprocedure，as，I

think，Ihavealreadyremarked，wasusuallytodashpell-mellatoneanotheraftertheabuseandfight，untilonesideortheotherdrewblood，withoutwhichnovictorycouldbegained。

JustbeforethebattlecommencedIhadarealinspirationwhichpracticallydecidedtheaffairwithoutanyfightingatall。ItoccurredtomethatifImountedmyselfonstilts，someeighteenincheshigh，andshotanarrowortwofrommybow，theenemywouldturntailandbolt。Andsoitturnedout。Asthearmiesapproachedoneanotherinfullbattlearraytheypresentedquiteanimposingappearance，andwhenasuitabledistanceseparatedthemtheyhaltedfortheinevitableabusiveparley。Intotheundignifiedabuse，needlesstoremark，Ididnotenter，butkeptwellinthebackground。Thespokesmanofmytribeaccusedtheenemyofbeingwithoutpluck——saidthattheywerecowards，andwouldsoonhavetheirliverseatenbytheinvaders。Therewasanyamountofspear-brandishing，yelling，andgesticulating。Fortheseblacksapparentlyfinditimpossibletocomeuptoactualfightingpitchwithoutfirstbeingworkeduptoanextraordinarydegreeofexcitement。

Whenatlengththeabusehadgotperfectlydelirious，andthefirstspearwasabouttobethrown，Idashedtothefrontonmystilts。

Severalspearswerelaunchedatme，butmyshield-bearersturnedthemononeside。Ithenshothalf-a-dozenarrowsintotheenemy”sranksinalmostasmanyseconds。Theconsternationproducedbythisflightof“invisiblespears“wasperfectlyindescribable。

Withaseriesofappallingyellstheenemyturnedandfledpell-

mell。Mymengavechase，andwoundedmanyofthem。Inthemidstoftherout(therulingthoughtbeingalwaysuppermost)，itoccurredtomethatitmightbeausefulstrokeofbusinesstomakefriendswiththisvanquishedtribe，sincetheymightpossiblybeofservicetomeinthatjourneytocivilisation，theideaofwhichI

neverreallyabandonedfromthedayIwascastuponmylittlesand-

spit。Furthermore，itflashedacrossmymindthatifImadethesenomadictribesinterestedinmeandmypowers，newsofmyisolationmighttravelenormousdistancesinland——perhapseventothebordersofcivilisationitself。

Icommunicatedmyideastomymen，andtheypromptlyenteredintomyviews。Theyconsentedtohelpmewithgreatreadiness。WhileI

wasspeakingwiththem，thevanquishedwarriorshadre-formedintopositionsomethreeorfourhundredyardsaway，andwerewatchingourmovementswithmuchcuriosity。Inowabandonedmystiltsandmybowandarrows，andmarchedoffwithmychiefsinthedirectionofourlateopponents。

Asweapproached，withbranchesinourhandsasflagsoftruce，I

signedtothestartledmenthatwewishedtobefriendly；andwhenwehalted，severalchiefscameforwardunarmedfromtheranksoftheenemytoconferwithus。Atfirsttheyweremuchsurprisedatmyovertures，butIsoonconvincedthemofmysincerity，andtheyatlengthconsentedtoacceptmyoffersoffriendship。Theyacknowledgedatoncemysuperiorityandthatofmymen，andpresentlyallthechiefscameforwardvoluntarilyandsquattedatmyfeetintokenofsubjection。Thetwoarmiesthenunited，andweallreturnedtoagreatencampment，wherethewomenpreparedatrulycolossalfeastforconquerorsandconqueredalike，andthegreatestharmonyprevailed。Itwasmagnificent，butIamsureitwasnotwar。Thebravesofbothsidesdecoratedthemselveswithmanypigmentsintheevening，andthetwotribesunitedinonegiganticcorroboree，whichwaskeptupallnight，andforseveraldaysafterwards。Weremainedencampedinthisdistrictforaboutaweek，holdingcontinuouscorroboree，andeachdaybecomingmoreandmorefriendlywithourlateenemies。Thecountryaboundedingame，andastheriverswerealsowellstockedwithfishthesupplyoffoodwasabundant。Attheendoftheweek，however，weretiredtoourrespectivehomes，but，strangelyenough，IfeltIcouldnolongersettledowntotheoldlifeamongmyfriendlyblacks。

Theolddesireforwanderingcameoverme，andIresolvedthatsomedayinthenearfutureIwouldmakeyetanotherattempttoreachcivilisation，thistimestrikingdirectlysouth。Foratime，however，Iforcedmyselftoremaincontent，accompanyingthemenontheirhuntingexpeditionsandgoingoutfishingwithmydevotedYamba。

CHAPTERIX

Thechildren”ssports——Aterribleordeal——Queernotionsofbeauty——

Howlittlegirlsaretaught——Domesticquarrels——Telltalefootprints——Igrowweary——Offonalongcruise——Astoundingnews——A

foreigntongue——Yambahasseenthegirls——Aremarkable“letter“——A

queernotionofdecoration——Yambaas“advanceagent“——Imeetthegirls——Adistressinginterview——Jealousyofthenativewomen。

Iwasmuchinterestedinthechildrenoftheblacks，andobservedalltheirinterestingways。Itisnottoomuchtosayinthecaseofbothboysandgirlsthattheycanswimassoonastheycanwalk。

Thereisnosqueamishnesswhateveronthepartofthemothers，wholeavetheirlittleonestotumbleintorivers，andremainoutnakedintorrentialrains，andgenerallyshiftforthemselves。Fromthetimetheboysarethreeyearsoldtheycommencethrowingtoyspearsatoneanotherasapastime。Forthispurpose，longdryreeds，obtainedfromtheswamps，areused，andthelittlefellowspractisethrowingthematoneanotherfromvariousdistances，theonlyshieldsallowedbeingthepalmsoftheirownlittlehands。Theyneverseemtotireofthesport，andacquireamazingdexterityatit。Attheageofnineortentheyabandonthereedsandadoptaheavierspear，withawoodenshaftandapointofhardwoodorbone。Allkindsofinterestingcompetitionsareconstantlyorganisedtotesttheboys”skill，themostvaluedprizesbeingtheapprobationofparentsandelders。

Asmallringofhide，orcreeper，issuspendedfromthebranchofatree，andthecompetitorshavetothrowtheirspearscleanthroughitatadistanceoftwentypaces。Allthechiefsandfightingmenofthetribeassembletowitnessthesecompetitions，andoccasionallysomelittleawardismadeintheshapeofankletsandbanglesofsmallshells，strungtogetherwithhumanhair。Theboysareinitiatedintotheranksofthe“menandwarriors“whentheyreachtheageofaboutseventeen。

Thisinitiationceremony，bytheway，isofaveryextraordinarycharacter。Manyofthedetailscannotbepublishedhere。Asarule，ittakesplaceinthespring，whenthemimosaisinbloom，andothertribescomefromallpartstoeatthenutsandgum。Wewillsaythatthereare，perhaps，twentyyouthstoundergotheordeal，whichisconductedfarfromallcampsandquiteoutofthesightofwomenandchildren。Thecandidateprepareshimselfbymuchfasting，givingupmeataltogetherforatleastaweekbeforetheinitiationceremonycommences。Insomecasescandidatesaredespatchedonatrampextendingovermanydays；andsuchimplicitfaithisplacedintheirhonourthatjudgesarenotevensentwiththemtoseethateverythingiscarriedoutfairly。Theymustaccomplishthistaskwithinagivenperiod，andwithoutpartakingofeitherfoodorwaterduringthewholetime。Nomatterhowgreatthetemptationmaybeontheroute，theyconformstrictlytotherulesofthetest，andwouldassoonthinkofrunningthemselvesthroughwithaspear，asofseekingawater-hole。Theinspectorswhojudgeatthisamazingexaminationare，ofcourse，theoldandexperiencedchiefs。

Afterthefastingcomestheordealproper。Theunfortunatecandidatepresentshimselfbeforeoneoftheexaminers，andsettleshisfaceintoaperfectlystoicalexpression。Heisthenstabbedrepeatedlyontheoutsideofthethighsandinthearms(neveronceisanarterycut)；andifheremainsabsolutelystatuesqueateachstab，hecomesthroughthemosttryingpartoftheordealwithflyingcolours。Amotionofthelips，however，oramutter——thesearealtogetherfatal。Notevenatoemustmoveinmuteagony；normayevenamuscleoftheeyelidgiveanuneasyandinvoluntarytwitch。Ifthecandidatefailsinaminordegree，heispromptlyputback，tocomeupagainforthenextexamination；butintheeventofhisbeingunabletostandthetorture，heiscontemptuouslytoldtogoandherdwiththewomen——thanwhichthereisnomorehumiliatingexpression。

Whileyetthecandidate”swoundsarestreamingwithblood，heisrequiredtorunwithlightningspeedfortwoorthreemilesandfetchbackfromagivenspotakindoftoylanceplantedintheground。Then，havingsuccessfullypassedthetripleordealsoffasting，stabbing，andrunningagainsttime，andwithoutfoodandwater，thecandidate，undertheeyesofhisadmiringfather，isatlengthreceivedintotheranksofthebravestwarriors，andisallowedtotakeawife。Atthecloseoftheceremony，theflowofbloodfromthecandidate”sreallyseriousflesh-woundsisstoppedbymeansofspiders”webs，powderedcharcoal，anddryclaypowder。

Withregardtothegirls，Iamafraidtheyreceivedbutscantconsideration。

Judgedbyourstandard，thewomenwerefarfromhandsome。Theyhadverybrighteyes，broad，flatnoses，low，narrowforeheads，andheavychins。Buttherearecomelyexceptions。Andyetatbigcorroboreesontheoccasionofamarriage，themenalwayschantedpraisestothevirtueandbeautyofthebride！

Thegirlwhopossessedanexceptionallylargeandflatnosewasconsideredagreatbeauty。Talkingaboutnoses，itwastomearemarkablefact，thattheblacksconsiderawarriorwithabignoseandlargedistendednostrilsamanpossessedofgreatstayingpower。Foronething，theyconsiderhisbreathingapparatusexceptionallyperfect。

Asageneralrule(thereareexceptionsinthecaseofavery“beautiful“woman)，whenawomandiessheisnotevenburied；shesimplylieswhereshehasfallendead，andthecampmovesontoanotherplaceandneverreturnstotheunholyspot。Anditmaybementionedherethattheblacksneveralludetoadeadpersonbyname，astheyhaveagreathorrorofdepartedspirits。Andsochildishandsuspiciousarethey，thattheysometimesevencutoffthefeetofadeadmantopreventhisrunningaboutandfrighteningthematinconvenientmoments。Iusedtoplayupontheirfears，goingoutintothebushafterdark，andpretendingtocommunewiththeevilspirits。Thevoiceoftheselatterwasproducedbymeansofreedwhistles。OnceImademyselfahuge，hideousmaskoutofakangarooskin，withholesslitinitforthenose，mouth，andeyes。

Iwoulddonthisstrangegarbintheevenings，andprowlaboutthevicinityofthecamp，holdingblazingtorchesbehindthemask，andemittingstrangenoises——sometimeshowlinglikeawolfandatothersshoutingaloudinmynaturalvoice。OntheseoccasionstheblacksthoughtIwasinmynaturalelementasaspirit。ButtheyneverventuredtofollowmeorattemptedtosatisfythemselvesthatIwasnotfoolingthemallthewhile。Yamba，ofcourse，knewthejoke，andasarulehelpedmetodressforthefarce，butshetookgoodcarenevertotellanyonethesecret。Nodoubthadtheblackseverlearnedthatitwasalldoneforeffectonmypart，theresultwouldhavebeenveryserious；butIknewIwasprettysecurebecauseoftheabnormalsuperstitionprevalentamongthem。

Thewomen，asIhavebeforehinted，aretreatedinahorriblycruelmanner，judgedfromourstandpoint；butinrealitytheyknownotwhatcrueltyis，becausetheyareabsolutelyignorantofkindness。

Theyarethebeastsofburden，tobefelledtotheearthwithabludgeonwhentheyerrinsometrivialrespect；andwhencampismovedeachwomancarriesvirtuallythewholehouseholdandtheentireworldlybelongingsofthefamily。Thusitisacommonsighttoseeawomancarryingaloadconsistingofoneortwochildrenandaquantityofmiscellaneousimplements，suchasheavygrindstones，stonehatchets，sewing-bones，yam-sticks，&c。Duringtheshiftingofthecampthebravesthemselvesstalkalongpracticallyunencumbered，saveonlyfortheirelaborateshield，threespears(nevermore)，andastonetomahawkstuckintheirbeltofwovenopossumhair。Themendonotsmoke，knowingnothingoftobacco，buttheirprincipalrecreationandrelaxationfromtheincessanthuntingconsistsinthemakingoftheirwarweapons，whichisaveryimportantpartoftheirdailylife。Theywillevenfellawholetree，ashasalreadybeenexplained，tomakeasinglespearshaft。Astotheshield，theelaboratecarvinguponitcorrespondscloselywiththeprowessoftheowner；andthemorelaurelshegains，themoreintricateandelaboratebecomesthecarvingonhisshield。Honourpreventsunduepretence。

Butwehavewanderedawayfromtheconsiderationofthegirl-

children。Thebabygirlsplaywiththeirbrothersandparticipateintheirfightsuntiltheyareperhapstenyearsofage。Theyarethenexpectedtoaccompanytheirmothersonthedailyexcursionsinsearchofroots。Whenthelittlegirlsarefirsttakenoutbytheirmotherstheyareinstructedintheuseoftheyam-stick，withwhichtherootsaredugupoutoftheearth。Thestickusedbythewomenisgenerallythreefeetorfourfeetlong，butthegirlnovicesuseashortoneaboutfifteeninchesinlength。Eachwoman，asIhavesaidelsewhere，isalsoprovidedwithareedbasketornet，inwhichtoholdtheroots，thisbeingusuallywovenoutofstringsofpreparedbark；or，failingthat，nativeflaxorpalmstraw。

Buttheunfortunatewifeoccasionallymakestheacquaintanceoftheheavyyam-stickinaveryunpleasant，nottosayserious，manner。

Ofcourse，therearedomesticrows。Wewillsupposethatthehusbandhaslatelypaidagreatamountofattentiontooneofhisyoungerwives——acircumstancewhichnaturallygivesgreatoffencetooneoftheolderwomen。Thiswife，whenshehasanopportunityandisalonewithherhusband，commencestosingorchantaplaint——

alittlethingofquiteherowncomposing。

Intothissongsheweavesalltheabusewhichlongexperiencetellsherwilllashherhusbanduptoboiling-point。Thelaterstanzascomplainthatthesingerhasbeentakenfromherownhomeamonganationofrealwarriorstoliveamongagangofskulkingcowards，whosehearts，livers，andothervitalorgansarenotatalluptothestandardofherpeople。

TheepithetsarecarefullyarrangedupascaleuntiltheyreachBANDY-LEGGED——anutterlyunpardonableinsult。Butthereis，beyondthis，oneotherunpublishableremark，whichcausesthehusbandtotakeuptheyam-stickandfellthesingerwithonetremendousblow，whichisfrequentlysoseriousastodisableherformanydays。

Theotherwomenatonceseetotheirsister，whohasincurredthewrathofherlord，andrubherwoundswithweirdmedicaments。Thewholeshockingbusinessisregardedasquiteanordinaryaffair；

andafterthesuffererisabletogetaboutagainshebearsherhusbandnottheslightestill-feeling。Yousee，shehashadhersayandpaidforit。

Thegirls，astheygrowup，aretaughttocookaccordingtothenativefashion，andarealsorequiredtobuildovensintheearthorsand；makethefires，build“break-winds，“andgenerallyhelptheirmothersinpreparingmeals。Whenatlengththemealiscooked，themannerofeatingitisverypeculiar。Firstofall，thewomenretireintothebackground。Thelordandmastergoesandpicksoutthetit-bitsforhimself，andthensitsdowntoeatthemoffasmallsheetofbark。Moreoften，however，hesimplytearsthemeatinpieceswithhishands。Duringhismeal，thewivesandchildrenarecollectedbehindatarespectfuldistance，awaitingtheirownshare。Then，asthewarrioreats，heliterallyhurlscertainoddmentsoverhisshoulder，whicharepromptlypounceduponbythewivesandchildreninwaiting。Itsometimeshappens，however，thatafavouritechild——aboyinvariably，neveragirl(itisthegirlswhoareeatenbytheparentswheneverthereareanysuperfluouschildrentobegotridof)——willapproachhisfatherandbefedwithchoicemorselsfromthegreatman”s“plate。”

Eachtribehasitsownparticularcountryoverwhichitroamsatpleasure，andtheboundariesaredefinedbytrees，hillocks，mountains，rocks，creeks，andwater-holes。Andfromthesenaturalfeaturesthetribesoccasionallygettheirnames。Outsidethetribalboundary——whichofteninclosesavastarea——theblacksnevergo，exceptonafriendlyvisittoaneighbouringcamp。Poachingisoneofthethingspunishablewithdeath，andevenifanywomaniscaughthuntingforfoodinanothercountrysheisseizedandpunished。IwilltellyoulateronhowevenYamba“putherfoot“

initinthisway。

Theblacksaremarvellouslycleverattrackingamanbyhisfootprints，andapoacherfromaneighbouringtribeneverescapestheirvigilance，eventhoughhesucceedsinreturningtohisownpeoplewithoutbeingactuallycaptured。Soassiduouslydotheseblacksstudythefootprintsofpeopletheyknowandarefriendlywith，thattheycantellatoncewhetherthetrespasserisanenemyornot；andifitbeastranger，apunitiveexpeditionisatonceorganisedagainsthistribe。

GraduallyIcametothinkthateachman”strackmusthaveanindividualityaboutitquiteasremarkableasthefinger-printsinvestigatedbyGaltonandBertillon。Theblackscouldeventellaman”snameandmanyotherthingsabouthim，solelyfromhistracks——

how，itisofcourseimpossibleformetosay。Ihaveoftenknownmyblackstofollowaman”strackOVERHARDROCKS，whereevenadisturbedleafprovedaninfallibleclue，yieldingaperfectlymiraculousamountofinformation。Theywillknowwhetheraleafhasbeenturnedoverbythewindorbyhumanagency！

Buttocontinuemynarrative。YambawasveryanxiousthatIshouldstayandmakemyhomeamongherpeople，andso，withtheassistanceofotherwomen，shebuiltmeasubstantialbeehive-shapedhut，fullytwentyfeetindiameterandtenfeethigh。ShepointedouttomeearnestlythatIhadeverythingIcouldpossiblywishfor，andthatImightbeaverygreatmanindeedinthecountryifonlyIwouldtakeaprominentpartintheaffairsofthetribe。Shealsomentionedthatsogreatwasmyprowessandprestige，thatifI

wishedImighttakeuntomyselfawholearmyofwives！——thenumberofwivesbeingthesoletokenofgreatnessamongthesepeople。Youseetheyhadtobefed，andthatimpliedmanygreatattributesofskillandstrength。Nevertheless，Ipinedforcivilisation，andneverletadaygobywithoutscanningthebayandtheopenseaforapassingsail。Thenativestoldmetheyhadseenshipsatvarioustimes，andthatattemptshadevenbeenmadetoreachthemincatamarans，butwithoutsuccess，sofaroutatseawerethevesselspassing。

Gradually，aboutninemonthsaftermystrangereturntomyCambridgeGulfhome，therecameatimewhenlifebecamesomonotonousthatIfeltIMUSThaveachangeofsomesort，orelsegomad。Iwasontheverybestoftermswithallmyblacks，buttheirmodeoflivingwasrepulsivetome。Ibegantoloathethefood，andthehorriblecrueltytothewomenfrequentlysickenedme。

WheneverIsawoneofthesepoorpatientcreaturesfelled，bleeding，totheearth，Ifeltmyselfbeingworkedupintoastateofdangerousnervousexcitement，andIlongedtochallengethebrutalassailantasamurderousenemy。Eachtime，however，I

sternlycompelledmyselftorestrainmyfeelings。AtlengththespiritofunrestgrewsostrongthatIdeterminedtotryashorttripinlandinadirectionIhadneverhithertoattempted。I

intendedtocrossthebigbayinmydug-out，roundCapeLondonderry，andthengosouthamongthebeautifulislandsdownpastAdmiraltyGulf，whichIhadpreviouslyexploredduringmyresidenceontheCape，andwhereIhadfoundfoodandwaterabundant；numerouscaves，withmuralpaintings；quietseas，andgorgeousvegetation。Yambawillinglyconsentedtoaccompanyme，andonedayIsetoffontheseaoncemore，myfaithfulwifebymyside，carryinghernetfullofoddsandends，andIwithmybowandarrows，tomahawk，andstiletto；thetwolattercarriedinmybelt。

Ihopedtocomeacrossashipdownamongtheislands，formynativestoldmethatseveralhadpassedwhileIwasaway。

Atlengthwestartedoffinourdug-out，theseabeingperfectlycalm——moreparticularlyintheearlymorning，whenthetidewasgenerallywithus。Afterseveraldays”paddlingwegotintoanarrowpassagebetweenalongelevatedislandandthemain，andfromtherefoundourwayintoaninlet，attheheadofwhichappearedmassesofwildandruggedrocks。Theserockswere，inmanyplaces，decoratedwithanumberofcrudebutstrikingmuralpaintings，whichwereprotectedfromtheweather。ThedrawingsI

foundrepresentedmenchiefly。Myowncontributionsconsistedoflife-sizesketchesofmywife，myself，andBruno。Iemphasisedmylonghair，andalsoreproducedmybowandarrow。Thisqueer“artgallery“waswelllighted，andtherocksmooth。Wefoundthespotaverysuitableoneforcamping；infact，therewereindicationsonallsidesthattheplacewasfrequentlyusedbythenativesasacamping-ground。Aconsiderablequantityofbarklaystrewnaboutthegroundinsheets，whichmaterialmywifetoldmewasusedbythenativesasbedding。ThiswasthefirsttimeIhadknowntheblack-fellowstouseanymaterialinthisway。Ialsocameacrosstracesofafeast——suchasemptyoystershellsinverylargeheaps，bonesofanimals，&c。Thewatersoftheinletwereexceedinglywellstockedwithfish；andhereIsawlargecrayfishforthefirsttime。Icaughtandroastedsome，andfoundthemverygoodeating。

ThisinletmightpossiblybeinthevicinityofMontagueSound，alittletothesouthofAdmiraltyGulf。

Westayedacoupleofdaysinthisbeautifulspot，andthenpusheddownsouthagain，alwayskeepingcloseundershelteroftheislandsonaccountofourfrailcraft。Theseasthroughwhichwepaddledwerestuddedwithinnumerableislands，somerockyandbarren，otherscoveredwithmagnificentfoliageandgrass。Welandedonseveralofthese，andonone——itmighthavebeenBiggesIsland——I

discoveredahighcairnormoundofstoneserectedonthemostprominentpoint。Yambatoldmethatthisstructurewasnottheworkofanative。Sheexplainedthatthestoneswerelaidtooregularly。AcloserexaminationconvincedmethatthecairnhadbeenbuiltbysomeEuropean——possiblyacastaway——andthatatonetimeithadprobablybeensurmountedbyaflag-staffasasignaltopassingships。Foodwasveryplentifulonthisisland，rootsandyamsbeingobtainableingreatabundance。Rockwallabieswerealsoplentiful。Afterleavingthisislandwecontinuedourjourneysouth，paddlingonlyduringtheday，andalwayswiththetide，andspendingthenightonland。Bytheway，whilstamongtheislands，Icameacross，atvarioustimes，manysadsignsofcivilisation，intheformofalowermastofaship，andadeck-house，awicker-

basket，emptybrandycases，andotherflotsamandjetsam，which，I

supposed，hadcomefromvariouswrecks。AfterhavingbeenabsentfrommyhomeinCambridgeGulf，twoorthreemonths，Ifoundmyselfinalargebay，whichInowknowtobeKing”sSound。Ihadcomeacrossmanytribesofnativesonmywaydown。SomeImetwereontheislandsonwhichwelanded，andothersonthemainland。Mostoftheseblack-fellowsknewmebothpersonallyandbyrepute，manyhavingbeenpresentatthegreatwhalefeast。ThenativesatKing”sSoundrecognisedme，andgavemeaheartyinvitationtostaywiththemattheircamp。ThisIconsentedtodo，andmyfriendsthenpromisedtosetalltheothertribesalongthecoastonthelook-outforpassingvessels，sothatImightimmediatelybeinformedbysmoke-signalswhenonewasinsight。Notlongafterthiscameanitemofnewswhichthrilledmethroughandthrough。

Oneofthechiefstoldmequitecasuallythatatanothertribe，somedays”journeyaway，thechiefhadTWOWHITEWIVES。Theyhad，hewentontoexplain，askinandhairexactlylikemyown；butinspiteofeventhisassurance，afterthefirstshockofamazementI

feltconfidentthatthecaptiveswereMalays。Thenewsoftheirpresenceamongthetribeinquestionwasawell-knownfactallalongthecoastofKing”sSound。MyinformanthadneveractuallySEENthewhitewomen，buthewasabsolutelycertainoftheirexistence。Headdedthatthecaptiveshadbeenseizedafterafightwithsomewhitemen，whohadcometothatcoastina“bigcatamaran。”However，Idecidedtogoandseeformyselfwhatmannerofwomentheywere。ThecanoewasbeachedwellabovethereachofthetidesatConeBay，andthen，accompaniedbyYambaonly，Isetoffoverlandonmyquest。TheregionoftheencampmenttowardswhichInowdirectedmystepsliesbetweentheLennardRiverandtheFitzroy。Theexactspot，asnearasIcanfixitonthechart，isaplacecalledDerby，attheheadofKing”sSound。

Asweadvancedthecountrybecameveryruggedandbroken，withnumerouscreeksintersectingitineverydirection。Fartheron，however，itdevelopedintoarich，low-lying，park-likeregion，withwaterinabundance。Tothenorth-westappearedelevatedranges。Icameacrossmanyfinespecimensofthebottletree。TheblacksencampedatDerbywereawareofmycomingvisit，havinghadthenewsforwardedtothembymeansoftheuniversalsmoke-signals。