第1章

1。Charm2。TheMothandtheStar3。ContrastedTravelling4。TheOuterandtheInnerWoman5。OnSomeGildedMisalliances6。TheComplacencyofMediocrity7。TheDiscontentofTalent8。Slouch9。SocialSuggestion10。Bohemia11。SocialExiles12。"SevenAges"ofFurniture13。OurEliteandPublicLife14。TheSmallSummerHotel15。AFalseStart16。AHolyLand17。RoyaltyatPlay18。ARockAhead19。TheGrandPrix20。"TheTreadmill"

21。"LikeMasterLikeMan"

22。AnEnglishInvasionoftheRiviera23。ACommonWeakness24。ChangingParis25。Contentment26。TheClimber27。TheLastoftheDandies28。ANationontheWing29。Husks30。TheFaubourgSt。Germain31。Men"sManners32。AnIdealHostess33。TheIntroducer34。AQuestionandanAnswer35。LivingonYourFriends36。AmericanSocietyinItaly37。TheNewportofthePast38。AConquestofEurope39。ARaceofSlaves40。IntrospectionTotheReaderTHEREexistedformerly，indiplomaticcircles，acuriouscustom，sincefallenintodisuse，entitledthePeleMele，contriveddoubtlessbysomedistractedMasterofCeremoniestoquelltheendlessjealousiesandquarrelsforprecedencebetweencourtiersanddiplomatistsofcontendingpretensions。Underthisrulenorankwasrecognized，eachpersonbeingallowedatbanquet，fete，orotherpublicceremonyonlysuchplaceashehadbeeningeniousorfortunateenoughtoobtain。

Anyonewishingtoformanideaoftheconfusionthatensued，oftheintriguesandexpedientsresortedto，notonlyinprocuringprominentplaces，butalsoinensuringtheintegrityofthePeleMele，shouldglanceovertheamusingmemoirsofM。deSegur。

Theaspiringnoblesandambassadors，harassedbythisconstantpreoccupation，hadlittletimeorinclinationleftforanyseriouspursuit，since，totakeamoment"sreposeoranhour"sbreathingspacewastoriskfallingbehindintheendlessandaimlessrace。

Strangeasitmayappear，theknowledgethattheyowedplaceandprefermentmoretochanceorintriguethantoanypersonalmeritorinheritedright，insteadoflesseningthevalueoftheprizesforwhichallwerestriving，seemedonlytoenhancethemintheeyesofthecompetitors。

Successwastheuniquestandardbywhichtheygaugedtheirfellows。

Thosewhosucceededrevelledintheadulationoftheirfriends，butwhenanyonefailed，theficklecrowdpassedhimbytobowatmorefortunatefeet。

Nobetterpicturecouldbefoundofthe"world"ofto-day，aperpetualPeleMele，wheresuchadvantagesonlyareconcededaswehavebeensufficientlyenterprisingtoobtain，andarestrongorcleverenoughtokeep-aconstantcompetition，adailysteeplechase，favorabletodaringspiritsandpersonalinitiativebutwiththedefectofkeepingfrailhumanityeveronthequivive。

Philosopherstellus，thatweshouldseekhappinessonlyinthecalmofourownminds，notallowingexternalconditionsortheopinionsofotherstoinfluenceourways。Thisloftydetachmentfromenvironmentisachievedbyveryfew。Indeed，thephilosophersthemselves(whomaybesaidtohaveinventedtheartof"posing")

weregenerallyasvainaspeacocks，profoundlypre-occupiedwiththeverdictoftheircontemporariesandtheirpositionasregardsposterity。

Manisborngregariousandremainsallhislifeaherdinganimal。

Asonekeenobserverhaswritten，"Sogreatisman"shorrorofbeingalonethathewillseekthesocietyofthoseheneitherlikesnorrespectssoonerthanbelefttohisown。"Thelawsandconventionsthatgovernmen"sintercoursehave，therefore，formedatemptingsubjectforthewritersofallages。Somehavelaboredhopingtoreformtheirgeneration，othershavewrittentooffersolutionsforlife"smanyproblems。

Beaumarchais，whosepenetratingwitleftfewsubjectsuntouched，makeshisFigaroputthesubjectasidewith"Jemepressederiredetout，depeurd"etreobliged"enpleurer。"

Theauthorofthislittlevolumepretendstosettlenodisputes，aimsatinauguratingnoreforms。Hehaslightlytouchedonpassingtopicsandjotteddown，"topointamoraloradornatale，"someofthemoreobviousfoiblesandinconsistenciesofourAmericanways。

Ifastraybitofphilosophyhashereandthereslippedinbetweenthelines，itismostlyofthelaughing"school，"andusedmoreinbanterthaninblame。

Thismuchabused"world"isafairlyagreeableplaceifyoudonottakeitseriously。Meetitwithafriendlyfaceanditwillsmilegaylybackatyou，butdonotaskofitwhatitcannotgive，orattributetoitsverdictsmoreimportancethantheydeserve。

ELIOTGREGORY

Newport，Novemberfirst，1897

CHAPTER1-CharmWOMENendowedbynaturewiththeindescribablequalitywecall"charm"(forwantofabetterword)，arethesupremedevelopmentofaperfectedrace，thelastword，asitwere，ofcivilization；thefloweroftheirkind，crowningcenturiesofgrowingrefinementandcultivation。Otherwomenmayuniteathousandbrilliantqualities，andattractiveattributes，maybebeautifulasAstarteorwittyasMadamedeMontespan，thoseendowedwiththepowerofcharm，haveinallagesandundereverysky，heldundisputedruleovertheheartsoftheirgeneration。

Whenwelookattheportraitsoftheenchantresseswhomhistorytellsushaveruledtheworldbytheircharm，andswayedthedestiniesofempiresattheirfancy，weareastonishedtofindthattheyhaverarelybeenbeautiful。FromCleopatraorMaryofScotlanddowntoLolaMontez，thetell-talecoinorcanvasrevealsthesamemarvellousfact。Wewonderhowthesewomenattainedsuchinfluenceoverthemenoftheirday，theirhusbandsorlovers。Wewoulddobettertolookaroundus，orinward，andobservewhatispassinginourownhearts。

Pause，readermine，amomentandreflect。Whohasheldthefirstplaceinyourthoughts，filledyoursoul，andinfluencedyourlife？

Wasshethemostbeautifulofyouracquaintances，theradiantvisionthatdazzledyourboyisheyes？Hasshenotratherbeensomegentle，quietwomanwhomyouhardlynoticedthefirsttimeyourpathscrossed，butwhograduallygrewtobeapartofyourlife-

towhomyouinstinctivelyturnedforconsolationinmomentsofdiscouragement，forcounselinyourdifficulties，andwhosewelcomewasthebrightmomentinyourday，lookedforwardtothroughlonghoursoftoilandworry？

Inthehurly-burlyoflifewelosesightofsomanythingsourfathersandmothersclungto，andhavedriftedsofarawayfromtheirgentlecustomsandsimple，home-lovinghabits，thatonewonderswhatimpressionoursocietywouldmakeonawomanofacenturyago，couldshebysomespellbedroppedintotheswingofmoderndays。Thegoodsoulwouldbeapttofinditratherafarcryfromthequietpleasuresofheryouth，to"aladies"amateurbicyclerace"thatformedtheattractionrecentlyatasummerresort。

Thatweshouldhavecometothinkitnaturalandproperforayoungwifeandmothertopasshermorningsatgolf，lunchingattheclub-

houseto"savetime，"returninghomeonlyforahurriedchangeoftoilettostartagainonabicycleorforaroundofcalls，anoccupationthatwillleaveherjustthehalf-hournecessarytoslipintoadinnergown，andthenforhertopasstheeveningindancingoratthecard-table，shows，whenonetakesthetimetothinkofit，howunconsciouslywehavechanged，and(withallapologiestothegayhostessesandgracefulathletesofto-day)notforthebetter。

Itisjustinthesubtlequalityofcharmthatthewomenofthelasttenyearshavefallenawayfromtheireldersisters。Theyhavebeencarriedalongbyaloveofsport，andbythesetoffashion"stide，notstoppingtoaskthemselveswhithertheyarefloating。Theydonotrealizealltheimportanceoftheiractsnorthetruemeaningoftheirmetamorphosis。

Thedearcreaturesshouldbecontent，fortheyhaveatlastescapedfromthebondageofages，havebrokentheirchains，andvaultedovertheirprisonwalls。"Lordsandmasters"havegraduallybecomeveryhumbleandobedientservants，andthe"love，honour，andobey"

ofthemarriageservicemightnowmorelogicallybespokenbytheman；onthelipsofthewomenofto-dayitisbutagraceful"FACON

DEPARLER，"andholdsonlythosewhochoosetobebound。

Itisnotmyintentiontorailagainsttheshort-comingsoftheday。ThatungratefultaskIleavetosternermoralists，andhopefulsoulswhonaivelyimaginetheycanstemthecurrentofanepochwiththebarrieroftheireloquence，orsweepbackanoceanofinnovationsbytheirlogic。Ishouldlike，however，toaskmysistersonequestion:Aretheyquitesurethatwomengainbythesechanges？Dotheyimagine，these"sporty"youngfemalesinshort-

cutskirtsandmannishshirtsandties，thatitisseductivetoalover，orahusbandtoseehisidolinaviolentperspiration，herdraggledhairblowingacrossasunburnedface，pantingupalonghillinfrontofhimonabicycle，franticathavinglostherrace？

ShadeofgentleWilliam!whosaidAwomanmoved，islikeafountaintroubled，-

Muddy，ill-seeming，thick，bereftofbeauty。

Andwhileitisso，nonesodryorthirstyWilldeigntosiportouchonedropofit。

Isthemoderngirlundertheimpressionthatmenwillbecontentedwithpoorimitationsofthemselves，tosharetheirhomesandbethemothersoftheirchildren？Sheisthrowingawaythesubstancefortheshadow!

Themomentwomenstepoutfromthesanctuaryoftheirhomes，theglamourthatgirlhoodormaternityhasthrownaroundthemcastaside，thatmomentwilltheyceasetorulemankind。Womenmayagitateuntiltheyhaveobtainedpoliticalrecognition，butwillawakefromtheirfoolishdreamofpower，realizingtoolatewhattheyhavesacrificedtoobtainit，thatthepricehasbeenveryheavy，andthefruitoftheirstrugglesbitterontheirlips。

Therearefewmen，Iimagine，ofmygenerationtowhomthewords"home"and"mother"havenotapenetratingcharm，whodonotlookbackwithsoftenedheartandtenderthoughtstofiresidescenesofeveningreadingsandtwilighttalksatamother"sknee，realizingthatthebestintheirnaturesowesitsgrowthtotheseinfluences。

Isometimeslookaboutmeandwonderwhattheword"mother"willmeanlater，tomodernlittleboys。Itwillevoke，Ifear，aconfusedremembranceofsomecentaur-likebeing，halfwoman，halfwheel，orasitdidtoneglectedlittleRawdonCrawley，thevisionofaradiantcreatureingauzeandjewels，drivingawaytoendlessFETES-FETESfollowedbylongmornings，whenhewastoldnottomakeanynoise，orplaytooloudly，"aspoormammaisresting。"

Whatothermemoriescanthe"successful"womanofto-dayhopetoleaveinthemindsofherchildren？Ifthechildremembershismotherinthisway，willnotthemanwhohasknownandperhapslovedher，feelthesamesensationofemptyfutilitywhenhernameismentioned？

Thewomanwhoproposesagameofcardstoayouthwhocomestopassanhourinhersociety，canhardlyexpecthimtocarryawayaparticularlytendermemoryofherasheleavesthehouse。Thegirlwhohasrowed，ridden，orracedataman"ssidefordays，withtheobjectofgettingthebetterofhimatsomesportorpastime，cannotreasonablyhopetobeconnectedinhisthoughtswithideasmoretenderormoreelevatedthan"odds"or"handicaps，"withanundercurrentofpiqueifhisunsexedcompanionhas"downed"himsuccessfully。

Whatman，unlesshebesingularlydissoluteorunfortunate，butturnshissteps，whenhecan，towardssomedaintyparlorwhereheissureoffindingasmiling，soft-voicedwoman，whosewelcomeheknowswillsoothehisirritatednervesandrestoretheevenbalanceofhistemper，whosecharmwillworkitssubtlewayintohistroubledspirit？Thewifeheloves，orthefriendheadmiresandrespects，willdomoreforhiminonesuchquiethourwhentwomindscommune，comingclosertotherealman，andmovinghimtobraverefforts，andnobleraims，thanallthebeautiesand"sporty"

acquaintancesofalifetime。Nomatterwhataman"seducationortasteis，noneareinsensibletosuchanatmosphereortothegraceandwitcheryawomancanlendtothesimplestsurroundings。Sheneednotbebeautifulorbrillianttoholdhiminlifelongallegiance，ifshebutpossessthismagnetism。

MadameRecamierwasabeautiful，butnotabrilliantwoman，yetsheheldmenherslavesforyears。Toknowherwastofallunderhercharm，andtofeelitoncewastoremainheradorerforlife。Shewillgodowntohistoryasthetypeofafascinatingwoman。Beingaskedoncebyanacquaintancewhatspellsheworkedonmankindthatenabledhertoholdthemforeveratherfeet，shelaughinglyanswered:

"Ihavealwaysfoundtwowordssufficient。Whenavisitorcomesintomysalon，Isay，"ENFIN!"andwhenhegetsuptogoaway，I

say，"DEJA!""

"Whatisthiswonderful"charm"heiswritingabout？"Ihearsomesprightlymaideninquireasshereadstheselines。Mydearyounglady，ifyouaskthequestion，youhavejudgedyourselfandbeenfoundwanting。ButtosatisfyyouasfarasIcan，Iwilltryanddefineit-notbytellingyouwhatitis；thatisbeyondmypower-butbynegatives，theonlywayinwhichsubtlesubjectscanbeapproached。

AwomanofcharmisneverflusteredandneverDISTRAITE。Shetalkslittle，andrarelyofherself，rememberingthatboresarepersonswhoinsistontalkingaboutthemselves。Shedoesnotbreakthethreadofaconversationbyirrelevantquestionsorconfabulateinanundertonewiththeservants。Nooneofherguestsreceivesmoreofherattentionthananotherandnoneareneglected。Sheofferstoeachonewhospeaksthehomageofherentireattention。Shenevermakesanefforttobebrilliantorentertainwithherwit。

Sheisfartoocleverforthat。Neitherdoesshevolunteerinformationnorconverseabouthertroublesorherailments，norwanderoffintodetailsaboutpeopleyoudonotknow。

Sheisallthings-toeachmanshelikes，inthebestsenseofthatphrase，appreciatinghisqualities，stimulatinghimtobetterthings-

forhisgayerhoursShehasavoiceofgladnessandasmileandeloquenceofbeauty；

andsheglidesIntohisdarkermusingswithamildandhealingsympathythatstealsawayTheirsharpnessereheisaware。

CHAPTER2-TheMothandtheStarTHEtruthofthesayingthat"itisalwaystheunexpectedthathappens，"receivesinthiscountryaconfirmationfromanunlooked-

forquarter，asdoesthefactofhumannaturebeingalways，discouragingly，thesameinspiteofvariedsurroundings。Thissoundslikeaparadox，butisanexceedinglysimplestatementeasilyproved。

ThatthegreatmassofAmericans，drawnastheyarefromsuchvariedsources，shouldtakeanyinterestinthecomingsandgoingsorsocialdoingsofasmallsetofwealthyandfashionablepeople，iscertainlyanunexpecteddevelopment。Thattoreadoftheamusementsandhomelifeofacliqueofpeoplewithwhomtheyhavelittleincommon，whosewholeeducationandpointofviewaredifferentfromtheirown，andwhomtheyhaverarelyseenandneverexpecttomeet，shouldaffordtheaveragecitizenanyamusementseemslittleshortofimpossible。

Oneacceptsasanaturalsequencethatabroad(whereanhereditarynobilityhaveruledforcenturies，andaccustomedthepeopletolookuptothemasthevisibleembodimentofallthatissplendidandunattainableinlife)suchinterestshouldexist。Thatthehome-comingofanEnglishorFrenchnoblemantohisestatesshouldexcitetheenthusiasmofhundredsmoreorlessdependentuponhimfortheiramusementormorematerialadvantages；thathismarriagetoanheiress-meaningtothemthere-openingofalong-closedCHATEAUandthebeginningofaperiodofprosperityforthedistrict-shouldexcitehisneighborsisnottobewonderedat。

Itiswellknownthatwholeregionshavebeenmadeprosperousbytheresidenceofacourt，witnessthewealthandtradebroughtintoScotlandbytheQueen"spreferencefor"theLandofCakes，"andthediscontentandpovertyinIrelandfromabsenteeismandpersistentavoidanceofthatcountrybythecourt。Butinthisland，whereeveryreasonforinterestingoneclassinanotherseemslacking，thatthousandsofwell-to-dopeople(halfthetimenotborninthishemisphere)，shoulddelightedlydevourcolumnsofincorrectinformationaboutNewYorkdancesandLenoxhouse-parties，wintercruises，orNewportcoachingparades，strikestheobserverasthe"unexpected"initspurestform。

Thatthisinterestexistsisabsolutelycertain。DuringatripintheWest，someseasonsago，IwasdumbfoundedtofindthatthemembersofacertainNewYorksetwerefamiliarlyspokenofbytheirfirstnames，andwasassailedwithallsortsofeagerquestionswhenitwasdiscoveredthatIknewthem。Acertainyounglady，atthattimeabelleinNewYork，wascurrentlycalledSALLY，andawell-knownsportsmanFRED，bythousandsofpeoplewhohadneverseeneitherofthem。Itseemsimpossible，doesitnot？Letuslookalittlecloserintothereasonofthisinterest，andweshallfindhowsimpleistheapparentparadox。

Perhapsinnocountry，inalltheworld，dotheimmensemiddleclassesleadsuchuninterestinglives，andhavesuchlimitedresourcesattheirdisposalforamusementorthepassingofleisurehours。

Abroadthemilitarybandsplayconstantlyinthepublicparks；themuseumsandpalacesarealwaysopenwhereintopassrainySundayafternoons；everyvillagehasitsreligiousFETESandlocalfair，attendedwithdancingandgames。Allthesementalrelaxationsarelackinginournewercivilization；lifeisstrippedofeverythingthatisnotdistinctlypractical；thedullroundofweeklytoilisonlybrokenbythedulleridlenessofanAmericanSunday。

Naturally，thesepeoplelongforsomethingoutsideofthemselvesandtheirnarrowsphere。

Suddenlytherearisesaclasswhosewealthpermitsthemtobreakthroughtheironcircleofworkandboredom，whodopicturesqueanddelightfulthings，whichappealdirectlytotheimagination；theybuildasummerresidencecomplete，insixweeks，withfurnitureandbric-a-brac，onthetopofaroadlessmountain；theysailinfairylikeyachtstosummerseas，andmarrytheirdaughterstotheheirsofducalhouses；theyfloatuptheNileindahabeeyah，orpassthe"monthofflowers"infarJapan。

Itisbuthumannaturetodelightinreadingofthesethings。Herethegreatmassofthepeoplefind(andeagerlyseizeon)，theelementofromancelackingintheirlives，infinitelymoreenthrallingthanthedoingsofanynovel"sheroine。Itisreal!

Itistakingplace!and-stilldeeperreason-ineveryambitiousAmericanheartlingersthesecrethopethatwithluckandgoodmanagementtheytoomaydothoseverythings，oratleastthattheirchildrenwillenjoythefortunestheyhavegained，injustthoseways。Thegloomofthemonotonouspresentisbrightened，thepatienttoilerreturnstohisdeskwithsomethingdefinitebeforehim-anobjectivepoint-towardswhichhecanstruggle；heknowsthatthisisnoimpossibledream。Dozenshavesucceededandprovetohimwhatenergyandenterprisecanaccomplish。

Donotlaughatthissuggestion；itisfartruerthanyouimagine。

Manyawearywomanhasturnedfromsuchreadingtohernarrowduties，feelingthatlifeisnotallwork，andwithrenewedhopeinthepossibilitiesofthefuture。

Doubtlessacertainamountofpurelyidlecuriosityismingledwiththeotherfeelings。IrememberquitewellshowingourcitysightstoaboredpartyofWesternfriends，andfailingentirelytoamusethem，when，happeningtomentionaswedroveuptown，"theregoesMr。Blank，"(namingaprominentleaderofcotillions)，myguestsnearlyfellovereachotherandoutofthecarriageintheireagernesstoseethegentlemanofwhomtheyhadreadsomuch，andwhowas，inthosedays，apowerinhisway，andseveraltimesaftertheyexpressedthegreatestsatisfactionathavingseenhim。

Ihavefound，withrareexceptions，andtheexperiencehasbeenratherwidelygatheredalloverthecountry，thatthisinterest-

orcallitwhatyouwill-hasbeenentirelywithoutspiteorbitterness，ratherthedelightofachildinafairystory。Forpeoplearerarelyenviousofthingsfarremovedfromtheirgrasp。

Youwillfindthatawomanwhoisbitterbecauseherneighborhasagirl"help"oramorecomfortablecottage，rarelyfeelsenvytowardstheownersofopera-boxesoryachts。Suchheart-burnings(letushopetheyarefew)areamongaclassbornintheshadowofgreatwealth，andbredupwithtastesthattheycanneitherrelinquishnorsatisfy。Thelargemajorityofpeopleshowonlyagood-naturedinclinationtochaff，noneofthe"classfeeling"

whichcertainpapersandcertainpoliticianstrytoexcite。

Outsideofthelargecitieswiththeirforeign-bred，semi-

anarchisticpopulations，thetoneisperfectlyfriendly；forthesimplereasonthatitneverenteredintotheheadofanyAmericantoimaginethatthereWASanyclassdifference。Tohimhisrichneighborsaresimplyhisluckyneighbors，almosthisrelations，who，startingfromacommonstock，havebeenableto"getthere"

soonerthanhehasdone。Sohewishesthemluckonthevoyageinwhichheexpectstojointhemassoonashehashadtimetomakeafortune。

Solongastheworldexists，oratleastuntilwehavereformeditandadoptedMr。Bellamy"sdelightfulschemeofexistenceasdescribedin"LookingBackward，"greatfortuneswillbemade，andpainfulcontrastsbeseen，especiallyincities，anditwouldseemtobethedutyofthepresstosoften-certainlynottosharpen-

theedgeofdiscontent。Aslongashumannatureishumannature，andthepoorcaretoreadofthedoingsofthemorefortunate，byallmeansgivethemthereadingtheyenjoyanddemand，butletitbewritteninakindlyspiritsothatitmaybeacultivationaswellasarecreation。Treatthisperfectlynaturalandhonesttastehonestlyandnaturally，for，afterall，itisThedesireofthemothforthestar，Ofthenightforthemorrow。

ThedevotiontosomethingafarFromthesphereofoursorrow。

CHAPTER3-ContrastedTravellingWHENourparentswenttoEuropefiftyyearsago，itwastheeventofalifetime-atourlovinglymappedoutinadvancewithadvicefromtravelledfriends。Passportswereprocured，booksread，willsmade，andfinally，prayerswereofferedupinchurchandsolemnleave-takingperformed。Onceontheotherside，descriptiveletterswereconscientiouslywritten，andeagerlyreadbyfriendsathome，-inspiteoftheseepistlesbeingonthethinnestofpaperandwithcrossingcarriedtoafineart，forpostagewashighintheforties。Aboveall，ajournalwaskept。

SuchajournalliesbeforemeasIwrite。Fourlittlevolumesinwornmoroccocoversandfaded"Italian"writing，morepreciousthanallmyotherbookscombined，theirsightrecallsthatlosttime-

myyouth-when，asareward，theywereunlockedthatImightlookatthedrawings，andthesweetestvoiceintheworldwouldreadtomefromthem!Happy，vanisheddays，thataresofarawaytheyseemtohavebeeninanotherexistence!

ThefirstvolumeopenswiththevoyageacrosstheAtlantic，madeinanAmericanclipper(amodelunsurpassedtheworldover)，whichwasaccomplishedinthirteendays，afeatrarelyequallednow，bysail。

GenialCaptainNyewasincommand。Thesamewholater，whenasteampropelledvesselwasofferedhim，refused，asunworthyofaseaman，"toboilakettleacrosstheocean。"

Lifefriendshipsweremadeinthoselittlecabins，undertheswinginglampthetravellersre-readlastvolumessoastobepreparedtoappreciateeverythingonlanding。Ireland，EnglandandScotlandwerevisitedwithanenthusiasmbornofScott，thetediumoflongcoachingjourneysbeingbeguiledbythefirst"numbers"of"Pickwick，"overwhichthemenofthepartyroared，butwhichtheladiesdidnotcarefor，thinkingitvulgar，andnottobecomparedto"Waverley，""ThaddeusofWarsaw，"or"TheMysteriesofUdolpho。"

Acircularlettertoourdiplomaticagentsabroadwaspresentedineachcity，ariteinvariablyfollowedbyaninvitationtodine，forwhichoccasionsablacksatinfrockwithalowbodyandafewsimpleornaments，including(supremeelegance)adiamondcross，werecarriedinthetrunks。InLondonatravellingcarriagewasboughtandstocked，theindispensablecourierengaged，halfguide，halfservant，whowasexpectedtoexploreacity，orwaitattable，asoccasionrequired。FourdayswerepassedbetweenHavreandParis，andtheslowprogressacrossEuropewasaccomplished，MurrayinonehandandByronintheother。

Onepageusedparticularlytoattractmyboyishattention。ItwasheadedbyanaivelittledrawingofthecarriageatanItalianinndoor，anddescribedhow，afterthedangersanddiscomfortsofanAlpinepass，theydescendedbysunnyslopesintoLombardy。Oh!therapturethatbreathesfromthosesimplepages!Thevintagescenes，themid-dayhaltforluncheoneatenintheopenair，theafternoonstart，thefrontseatofthecarriageheapedwithpurplegrapes，usedtofiremyyouthfulimaginationandnowrecallsMadamedeStael"slineonperfecthappiness:"Tobeyoung!tobeinlove!tobeinItaly!"

DopeopleenjoyEuropeasmuchnow？Idoubtit!Ithasbecometoomuchamatterofcourse，anecessarypartoftheroutineoflife。

Muchofthebloomisbrushedfromforeignscenesbydescriptivebooksandphotographs，thatSt。Mark"sorMt。Blanchasbecomeasfamiliartoachild"seyeasthehousehelivesin，andinconsequencetherealitynowinsteadofbeingarevelationisoftenadisappointment。

Inmyyouth，itwasstillaneventtocross。Iremembermyfirstvoyageontheoldside-wheeledSCOTIA，andCaptainJudkinsinawheeledchair，andaperpetualbadtemper，beingpushedaboutthedeck；andourdelight，whentheinevitablefemaleaskinghim(threedaysout)howfarwewerefromland，gottheanswer"aboutamile!"

"Indeed!Howinteresting!Inwhichdirection？"

"Inthatdirection，madam，"shoutedthecaptain，pointingdownwardasheturnedhisbacktoher。

IfIremember，wewerethenthirteendaysgettingtoLiverpool，andmadetheacquaintanceonboardofthepeoplewithwhomwetravelledduringmostofthatwinter。Imagineanyonenowmakinganacquaintanceonboardasteamer!Inthosesimpledayspeopledependedonthefriendshipsmadeatsummerhotelsorboarding-

housesfortheirvisitinglist。Atpresent，whenagirlcomesout，hermotherpresentshertoeverybodyshewillbelikelytoknowifsheweretoliveacentury。Intheseventies，ladiescheerfullysharedtheirstate-roomswithwomentheydidnotknow，andoftenbecamefriendsinconsequence；butnow，unlessacertaindeck-suitecanbesecured，withbathandsitting-room，ononeortwoparticular"steamers，"thegreatladyisindespair。Yetourmotherswerequiteasrefinedasthepresentgeneration，onlytheytooklifesimply，astheyfoundit。

Childrenarenowtakenabroadsoyoung，thatbeforetheyhavereachedanagetoappreciatewhattheysee，Europehasbecometothematwice-toldtale。Sotrueisthis，thatareceiptformakingchildrengoodAmericansistobringthemupabroad。Oncetheygetbackhereitishardtoenticethemawayagain。

Witheachimprovementinthespeedofoursteamers，somethingoftheglamourofEuropevanishes。Thecrowdsthatyearlyrushacrossseeandappreciatelessinalifetimethanourparentsdidintheironetourabroad。AgoodladyofmyacquaintancewascomplainingrecentlyhowmuchParisboredher。

"Whatcanyoudotopassthetime？"sheasked。IinnocentlyansweredthatIknewnothingsoentrancingaslongmorningspassedattheLouvre。

"Oh，yes，Idothattoo，"shereplied，"butIlikethe"BonMarche"

best!"

AtripabroadhasbecomeapurelysocialfunctiontoalargenumberofwealthyAmericans，including"presentation"inLondonandawinterinRomeorCairo。Andjustasa"smart"Englishmanissuretotellyouthathehasnevervisitedthe"Tower，"ithasbecomegoodformtoignorethesight-seeingsideofEurope；hundredsofNewYorkersneverseeinganythingofParisbeyondtheRuedelaPaixandtheBois。TheywouldassoonthinkofgoingtoClunyorSt。Denisasofvisitingthemuseuminourpark!

SuchpeoplegotoFontainebleaubecausetheyarebuyingfurniture，andtheywishtoseethebestmodels。TheygotoVersaillesonthecoachand"do"thePalaceduringthehalf-hourbeforeluncheon。

Beyondthat，enthusiasmrarelycarriesthem。AssoonastheyhavesettledthemselvesattheBristolortheRhinbeginstheendlesstreadmillofleavingcardsonallthepeoplejustseenathome，andwhomtheywillmeetagaininacoupleofmonthsatNewportorBarHarbor。Thisdutyandtheall-entrancingoccupationofgettingclothesfillsupeverysparehour。Indeed，clothesseemtopervadetheairofParisinMay，theconversationrarelydeviatingfromthem。Ifyoumeetaladyyouknowlookingill，andaskthecause，itgenerallyturnsouttobe"fourhoursadaystandingtobefitted。"Incredibleasitmayseem，Ihavebeentoldofoneplainmaidenlady，whomakesatripacross，springandautumn，withthesoleobjectofgettinghertwoyearlyoutfits。

Rememberingthehundredsofcultivatedpeoplewhosedreaminlife(oftenunrealizedfromlackofmeans)hasbeentogoabroadandvisitthescenestheirreadinghasmadefamiliar，andknowingwhatsuchatripwouldmeantothem，andhowitwouldbelookedbackuponduringtherestofanobscurelife，Ifeltitalmostadutyto"suppress"awealthyfemale(doubtlessanAmericancousinofLadyMidas)whensheinformedme，theotherday，thatdecidedlyshewouldnotgoabroadthisspring。

"Itisnotnecessary。Worthhasmymeasures!"

CHAPTER4-TheOuterandtheInnerWomanITisasadcommentaryonourboastedcivilizationthatcasesofshopliftingoccurmoreandmorefrequentlyeachyear，inwhichthedelinquentsarewomenofeducationandrefinement，oratleastbelongtofamiliesandoccupypositionsinwhichonewouldexpecttofindthosequalities!Thereason，however，isnotdifficulttodiscover。

Inthewakeofourhastyandimmatureprosperityhascome(asitdoestoallsuddenlyenrichedsocieties)aloveofostentation，adesiretodazzlethecrowdbydisplaysofluxuryandrichtrappingsindicativeofcrudeandvulgarstandards。Thenewlyacquiredmoney，insteadofbeingexpendedforsolidcomfortsorarticleswhichwouldaffordlastingsatisfaction，islavishedonwhatcanbeworninpublic，ortheoutershellofdisplay，whilethehometableandfiresidebelongingsareneglected。Aglancearoundourtheatres，oratthemenandwomeninourcrowdedthoroughfares，issufficienttorevealtoevenacasualobserverthatthemaniaforfineclothesandwhatiscostly，PERSE，hasbecomethebesettingsinofourdayandourland。

Thetoneofmostofthepapersandofourtheatricaladvertisementsreflectsthisfeeling。Theamountofmoneyexpendedforaworkofartoranewbuildingismentionedbeforeanycommentastoitsbeautyorfitness。Aplayisspokenofas"ManagerSoandSo"sthirty-thousand-dollarproduction!"Thefactthatafavoriteactresswillappearinfourdifferentdressesduringthethreeactsofacomedy，eachtoiletbeingaspecialcreationdesignedforherbyaleadingParisianhouse，isconsideredofsupremeimportanceandisdweltuponintheprogrammeasaspecialattraction。

Itwouldbeastonishingifthetasteofourwomenweredifferent，consideringthewayclothesareeternallybeingdangledbeforetheireyes。Leadingpaperspublishillustratedsupplementsdevotedexclusivelytothesubjectofattire，thuscarryingtemptationintoeveryhumblehome，andsuggestingunattainableluxuries。Windowsinmanyofthelargershopscontainlife-sizedmanikinsloadedwiththelatestcostlyandephemeralcapricesoffashionarrangedtocatchtheeyeofthepoorerclassofwomen，whostandinhundredsgazingatthedisplaylikelarksattractedbyamirror!Watchthosewomenastheyturnaway，andlistentotheirsighsofdiscontentandenvy。Dotheynottellvolumesaboutpettyhopesandambitions？

Idonotrefertothewealthywomenwhosetoiletsareinkeepingwiththeirincomesandthegeneralfootingoftheirhouseholds；

thattheyshouldspendmoreorlessinfittingthemselvesoutdaintilyisoflittleimportance。Thepointwherethissubjectbecomespainfulisinfamiliesofsmallmeanswhereyounggirlsimaginethattobeelaboratelydressedisthefirstessentialofexistence，and，inconsequence，bendtheirlaborsandtheirintelligencetowardsthisend。LastspringIaskedanoldfriendwheresheandherdaughtersintendedpassingtheirsummer。Heranswerstruckmeasbeingcharacteristicenoughtoquote:"Weshouldmuchprefer，"shesaid，"returningtoBarHarbor，forweallenjoythatplaceandhavemanyfriendsthere。Butthetruthis，mydaughtershaveboughtthemselvesverylittleinthewayoftoiletthisyear，asourfinancesarenotinaflourishingcondition。Somypoorgirlswillbeobligedtomaketheirlastyear"sdressesdoforanotherseason。Underthesecircumstances，itisoutofthequestionforustoreturnasecondsummertothesameplace。"

Idonotknowhowthisanecdotestrikesmyreaders。Itmademethoughtfulandsadtothinkthat，inafamilyofintelligentandpracticalwomen，suchareasonshouldbeconsideredsufficienttooutweighenjoyment，socialrelations，evenhealth，andallowedtochangetheplansofanentirefamily。

AsAmericanwomenaresofondofcopyingEnglishwaystheyshouldbewillingtotakeafewlessonsonthesubjectofraimentfromacrossthewater。Asthisisnotintendedtobeadissertationon"HowtoDressWellonNothingaYear，"andasIfeelthegreatestdiffidenceinapproachingasubjectofwhichIknowabsolutelynothing，itwillbebettertosheerofffromthesereefsandquicksands。Everyonewhoreadstheselineswillknowperfectlywellwhatismeant，whenreferenceismadetothegoodsenseandpracticalutilityofEnglishwomen"sdress。

Whatdisgustsandangersme(whenmywaytakesmeintooursurfaceorelevatedcarsorintoferryboatsandlocaltrains)istheutterdissonancebetweentheoutfitofmostofthewomenImeetandtheirpositionandoccupation。Souniversalisthis，thatitmightalmostbelaiddownasanaxiom，thattheAmericanwoman，nomatterinwhatwalkoflifeyouobserveher，orwhatthetimeortheplace，isalwayspersistentlyandgrotesquelyoverdressed。Fromthewomenwhofrequentthehotelsofoursummerorwinterresorts，downallthestepsofthesocialstaircasetothechar-woman，whoconsents(spasmodically)toremovethedustandwaste-papersfrommyoffice，thereseemstobethesamecompletedisregardoffitness。Theotherevening，inleavingmyrooms，Ibrushedagainstaportlypersoninthehalf-lightofthecorridor。Therewasashimmerof(whatappearedtomyinexperiencedeyesas)costlystuffs，ahugehatcrownedtheshadowitself，"toppedbynoddingplumes，"whichseemedtoaccountforthedepletedconditionofmyfeatherduster。

Ifoundoninquiringofthejanitor，thatthedressypersonIhadmet，wasthechar-womaninstreetattire，andthataclosetwassetasideinthebuilding，forthespecialpurposeofhermorningandeveningtransformations，whichsheunderwentinthebeliefthathersocialpositioninAvenueAwouldsuffer，shouldsheappearinthestreetswearinganythinglesscostlythanseal-skinandvelvetorsuchimitationsofthoseexpensivematerialsasherstipendwouldpermit。

IhaveastenantsofasmallwoodenhouseinJerseyCity，abankclerk，hiswifeandtheirthreedaughters。Heearnsintheneighborhoodoffifteenhundreddollarsayear。Theirrent(withwhich，bytheway，theyarealwaysinarrears)isthreehundreddollars。Iamfavoredspringandautumnbyavisitfromtheladiesofthatfamily，inthehope(generallyfutile)ofinducingmetodosomeornamentalpaperingorpaintingintheirresidence，subjectsonwhichtheyhavebyexperiencefoundmyagenttobeunapproachable。Whenthosefourwomendescenduponme，Iamfairlydazzledbythesplendoroftheirattire，andlostinwonderastohowthepriceofallthatfinerycanhavebeensqueezedoutofthetwelveremaininghundredsoftheirincome。WhenImeetthefatherheisshabbytotheouterlimitsofthegenteel。Hishathas，Iamsure，supportedthesunsandsnowstormsofadozenseasons。Thereisathreadbareshineonhisapparelthatsuggestsaheartacheineachwhitenedseam，buttheladiesaremirrorsoffashion，aswellasmouldsofform。Whatcanremainforanycreaturecomfortsafterallthosefineclotheshavebeenpaidfor？Andhowmuchisputawayfortheyearswhenthelong-sufferingmoneymakerwillbepastwork，orsavedtowardsthetimewhensicknessoraccidentshallappearonthehorizon？Howthoseladieshadthe"nerve"toenteraferryboatorcrowdintoacablecar，dressedastheywere，hasalwaysbeenamarveltome。Alandauandtwoliveriedservantswouldbarelyhavebeeninkeepingwiththeirappearance。

Notlongago，agreatEnglishnobleman，whoisalsofamousintheyachtingworld，visitedthiscountryaccompaniedbyhistwodaughters，high-bredandgenialladies。Noself-respectingAmericanshopgirlorfashionabletypewriterwouldhavecondescendedtoappearintheinexpensiveattirewhichthoseEnglishwomenwore。Whereveronemetthem，atdinner，FETE，orball，theywerealwaysthemostsimplydressedwomenintheroom。

Iwonderifiteveroccurredtoanyoftheirgorgeouslyattiredhostesses，thatitwasbecausetheirtransatlanticguestsweresosureoftheirposition，thattheycontentedthemselveswithsuchsimpletoiletsknowingthatnothingtheymightwearcouldeitherimproveoraltertheirstandingInformerages，sumptuarylawswereenactedbyparentalgovernments，inthehopeofsuppressingextravaganceindress，thestateofaffairswedeplorenow，notbeinganewdevelopmentofhumanweakness，butasoldaswealth。

Thedesiretoshinebythesplendorofone"strappingsisthefirstideaoftheparvenu，especiallyhereinthiscountry，wheretheambitiousaredeniedthepleasureofacquiringatitle，andwhereofficialrankcarrieswithitsolittlesocialweight。Fewmorestrikingwayspresentthemselvestothecrudeandhalf-educatedfortheexpenditureofanewfortunethanthepurchaseofsumptuousapparel，thesatisfactionbeingimmediateandmaterial。Thewearerofacompleteandperfecttoiletmustexperienceadelightofwhichtheuninitiatedknownothing，forsuchcruelsacrificesaremadeandsomanyprivationsenduredtoprocurethissatisfaction。WhenIseegroupsofwomen，cladinthelatestdesignsofpurpleandfinelinen，standshiveringonstreetcornersofawinternight，untiltheycancrowdintoacar，Idoubtifthejoytheygetfromtheirclothes，compensatesthemforthecreaturecomfortstheyareforcedtoforego，andIwonderifitneveroccurstothemtospendlessontheirwardrobesandsofeeltheycanaffordtoreturnfromatheatreorconcertcomfortably，inacab，asaforeignwoman，withtheirincomewoulddo。

ThereisastoicaldeterminationabouttheAmericanpointofviewthatcompelsacertainamountofrespect。Ourcountrywomenwilldenythemselvespleasures，willeconomizeontheirfoodandwillremainintownduringthesummer，butwhenwalkingabroadtheymustbecladinthebest，sothatnoonemayknowbytheirappearanceiftheincomebecountedbyhundredsorthousands。

Whilethesestandardsprevailandthefemalemindisfixedonthissubjectwithsuchdireintent，itisnotastonishingthataweakersisterisoccasionallytemptedbeyondherpowersofresistance。

Northateachdayanewcaseofawell-dressedwomanthievinginashopreachesourears。Thepoorfeeble-mindedcreatureisnottoblame。SheisbutthereflexionofthemindsaroundherandisprobablyliketheladyEmersontellsof，whoconfessedtohim"thatthesenseofbeingperfectlywell-dressedhadgivenherafeelingofinwardtranquillitywhichreligionwaspowerlesstobestow。"

CHAPTER5-OnSomeGildedMisalliancesADEARoldAmericanlady，wholivedthegreaterpartofherlifeinRome，andreceivedeverybodyworthknowinginherspaciousdrawing-rooms，farupinthedimvastnessesofaRomanpalace，usedtosaythatshehadonlyknownonereallyhappymarriagemadebyanAmericangirlabroad。

Inthosedays，beingyoungandinnocent，Iconsideredthatremarkcynical，andinmyheartthoughtnothingcouldbemoreromanticandcharmingthanforafaircompatriottoassumeanhistorictitleandretiretoherhusband"sestates，andrulesmilinglyoverhimandadevotedtenantry，asinthelastactofacomicopera，whenarose-

coloredlightisburningandtheorchestraplaysthelastbrilliantchordsofaweddingmarch。

Thereseemedtomypervertedsenseacertainpoeticjusticeaboutthefactthatmoney，gainedhonestlybutprosaically，ingroceriesorgas，shouldgotoregildanancientblazonorpropupthecrumblingwallsofsomestatelypalaceabroad。

Manythoughtfulyearsandmanycruelrealitieshavetaughtmethatmygracioushostessofthe"seventies"wasright，andthatmarriageundertheseconditionsisapttobemuchmorelikethecomicoperaafterthecurtainhasbeenrungdown，whenthelightsareout，theapplaudingpublicgonehome，andthewearyactorsbroughtslowlybacktothepresentandthepositive，arewonderinghowtheyaretopaytheirrentordodgethewarrantinambusharoundthecorner。

Internationalmarriagesusuallycomeaboutfromadeficientknowledgeoftheworld。Thefatherbecomesrich，thefamilytravelabroad，somemutualfriend(oftenfrompurelyinterestedmotives)

producesasuitorforthehandofthedaughter，intheshapeofa"prince"withatitlethatmakesthewholesimpleAmericanfamilyquiverwithdelight。