第2章

TheCaptainwaslyingdead，withouthisclothes，onthebed；onemanwasdiscoveredatadistance，anotherneartheCaptain。Thenitwasrememberedthat，atthesamebothyamonthbefore，ashepherdladhadinquiredfortheCaptain，hadwalkedwithhimforsometime，andthat，ontheofficer"sreturn，"amysteriousanxietyhungabouthim。"Afirehadalsobeenseenblazingonanoppositeheight，andwhensomeofthegillieswenttothespot，"therewasnofiretobeseen。"Onthedaywhentheexpeditionhadstarted，theCaptainwaswarnedoftheillweather，buthesaid"heMUST

go。"Hewasanunpopularman，andwasaccusedofgettingmoneybyprocuringrecruitsfromtheHighlands，oftenbycruelmeans。"Ourinformertoldusnothingmore；heneithertoldushisownopinion，northatofthecountry，butleftittoourownnotionsofthemannerinwhichgoodandevilisrewardedinthislifetosuggesttheauthorofthemiserableevent。Heseemedimpressedwithsuperstitiousaweonthesubject，andsaid，"Therewasnathelikeseenina"Scotland。"ThemanisfaradvancedinyearsandisaschoolmasterintheneighbourhoodofRannoch。"

SirWaltersaysthat"thefeelingofsuperstitiousaweannexedtothecatastrophecouldnothavebeenimprovedbyanycircumstancesofadditionalhorrorwhichapoetcouldhaveinvented。Butistherenotsomethingmoremovingstillintheboatman"sversion:

"theywereneverseenagain……theywerenotfoundindeedtillthisday"？

Thefolklorist，ofcourse，iseagertoknowwhethertheboatman"smuchmorecompleteandconnectednarrativeisapopularmythicaldevelopmentintheyearsbetween1820and1890，orwhethertheschoolmasterofRannochdidnottellallheknew。Itisunlikely，Ithink，thatthesiegeofSeringapatamwouldhavebeenrememberedsolonginconnectionwiththeBlackOfficerifithadnotformedpartofhisoriginallegend。MeanwhiletheearliestprintednoticeoftheeventwithwhichIamacquainted，anoticeonlytenyearslaterthanthedateoftheMajor"sdeathin1799，isgivenbyHoggin"TheSpy，"1810-11，pp。101-3。Iofferanabridgmentofthenarrative。

"AbouttheendoflastcenturyMajorMacphersonandapartyoffriendswentouttohuntontheGrampiansbetweenAtholeandBadenoch。Theywerehighlysuccessful，andintheafternoontheywentintoalittlebothy，and，havingmeatanddrink，theyabandonedthemselvestojollity。

"Duringtheirmerry-makingayoungmanenteredwhoseappearanceparticularlystruckandsomewhatshockedMacpherson；thestrangerbeckonedtotheMajor，andhefollowedhiminstantlyoutofthebothy。

"Whentheyparted，afterapparentlyhavinghadsomeearnestconversation，thestrangerwasoutofsightlongbeforetheMajorwashalf-wayback，thoughonlytwentyyardsaway。

"TheMajorshowedonhisreturnsuchevidentmarksoftrepidationthatthemirthwasmarredandnoonecaredtoaskhimquestions。

"Thiswasearlyintheweek，andonFridaytheMajorpersuadedhisfriendstomakeasecondexpeditiontothemountains，fromwhichtheyneverreturned。

"Onasearchbeingmadetheirdeadbodieswerefoundinthebothy，someconsiderablymangled，butsomewerenotmarkedbyanywound。

"Itwasvisiblethatthishadnotbeeneffectedbyhumanagency:

thebothywastornfromitsfoundationsandscarcelyavestigeleftofit，andonehugestone，whichtwelvemencouldnothaveraised，wastossedtoaconsiderabledistance。

"OnthiseventScott"sbeautifulballadof"Glenfinlas"issaidtohavebeenfounded。"

Aswillbeseenpresently，Hoggwaswrongabout"Glenfinlas"；theboatmanwasacquaintedwithatraditionalversionofthatwildlegend。IfoundanotheratRannoch。

TheHighlandfairiesareveryvampirish。TheLochAweboatmanlivesataspothauntedbyashadowymaiden。Herlastappearancewasaboutthirtyyearsago。Twoyoungmenwerethrashingcornonemorning，whenthejointoftheflailbroke。TheownerwenttoLarichbanandenteredanouthousetolookforapieceofsheepskinwherewithtomendtheflail。Hewaslongabsent，andhiscompanionwentafterhim。Hefoundhimstrugglinginthearmsofaghostlymaid，whohadnearlymurderedhim，butdepartedonthearrivalofhisfriend。Itisnoteasytomakeoutwhattheseghoulishwomenare——notfairiesexactly，norwitches，norvampires。Forexample，threeshepherdsatalonelysheilingwerediscoursingoftheirloves，anditwas，"Oh，howhappyIshouldbeifKatiewerehere，orMaggie，orBessie!"asthecasemightbe。Sotheywouldsayandsotheywouldwish，andlo!oneevening，thethreegirlscametothedoorofthehut。Sotheymadethemwelcome；butoneoftheshepherdswasplayingtheJew"s-harp，andhedidnotliketheturnmattersweretaking。

Thetwoothersstoleoffintocornersofthedarklinghutwiththeirlovers，butthisprudentladnevertookhislipsofftheJew"s-harp。

"Harpingisgoodifnoillfollowsit，"saidthesemblanceofhissweetheart；butheneveranswered。Heplayedandthrummed，andoutofonedarkcornertrickledredbloodintothefire-light，andoutofanothercornercameacurrentofbloodtomeetit。Thenheslowlyrose，stillharping，andbackedhiswaytothedoor，andfledintothehillsfromthesecruelairyshapesoffalsedesire。

"Anddothepeopleactuallybelieveallthat？"

"Ay，dothey!"

Thatistheboatman"sversionofScott"sthemein"Glenfinlas。"

Witchesplayedagreatpartinhisnarratives。

Intheboatman"scountrythereisaplain，andontheplainisaknoll，abouttwicetheheightofaone-storeyedcottage，andpointed"likeasugar-loaf。"Theoldpeopleremember，orhaveheard，thatthismoundwasnottherewhentheywereyoung。Itswelledupsuddenlyoutofthegraveofawitchwhowasburiedthere。

Thewitchwasagreatenemyofashepherd。Everymorningshewouldputontheshapeofahare，andrunbeforehisdogs，andleadthemawayfromthesheep。Heknewitwasrighttoshootatherwithacrookedsixpence，andhehitheronthehindleg，andthedogswereafterher，andchasedthehareintotheoldwoman"scottage。Theshepherdranafterthem，andtherehefoundthem，tearingattheoldwoman；buttheharewastwistedroundtheirnecks，andshewascrying，"Tighten，hare，tighten!"anditwaschokingthem。Sohetorethehareoffthedogs；andthentheoldwomanbeggedhimtosaveherfromthem，andshepromisednevertoplaguehimagain。

"Butiftheolddog"steethhadbeenassharpastheyoungone"s，shewouldhavebeenadeadwoman。"

Whenthiswitchdiedsheknewshecouldneverlieinsafetyinhergrave；buttherewasaverysafechurchyardinAberdeenshire，ahundredandfiftymilesaway，andifshecouldgetintothatshewouldbeatrest。Andsheroseoutofhergrave，andoffshewent，andtheDevilafterher，onablackhorse；but，praisetotheswiftnessofherfeet，shewonthechurchyardbeforehim。Herfirstgraveswelledup，oh，ashighasthatgreenhillock!

Witchesarestillinactivepractice。Therewasanoldwomanverymiserly。Shewouldalwaybetakingoneofherneighbours"sheepfromthehills，andtheystooditforlong；theydidnotliketomeddlewithher。Atlastitgrewsobadthattheybroughtherbeforethesheriff，andshegoteighteenmonthsinprison。Whenshecameoutshewasveryangry，andsetaboutmakinganimageofthewomanwhosesheepshehadtaken。Whentheimagewasmadesheburneditandputtheashesinaburn。Anditisaverycuriousthing，butthewomanshemadeitonfellintoadecline，andtooktoherbed。

ThewitchandherfamilywenttoAmerica。Theykeptalittleinn，inacountryplace，andpeoplewhosleptinitdidnotcomeoutagain。Theywerediscovered，andtheeldestsonwashanged；heconfessedthathehadcommittednineteenmurdersbeforeheleftScotland。

"Theywerenotanicefamily。"

"Thefatherwasaveryrespectableoldman。"

Theboatmangavemethenameofthiswickedhousehold，butitisperhapsbetterforgotten。

TheextraordinarythingisthatthisappearstobetheHighlandintroductionto，orpartfirstof，agloomyandsanguinarystoryofamurderhole——aninnofassassinsinalonelydistrictoftheUnitedStates，whichMr。LouisStevensonheardinhistravelsthere，andtoldtomesomeyearsago。Thedetailshaveescapedmymemory，but，asMr。Stevensonnarratedthem，theyrivalledDeQuincey"sawfulstoryofWilliams"smurdersintheRatcliffeHighway。

LifemuststillbehauntedinBadenoch，asitwasonIda"shill，byformsofunearthlybeauty，thegoddessortheghostyetwooingtheshepherd；indeed，theboatmantoldmemanystoriesoflivingsuperstitionandterrorsofthenight；butwhyshouldIexhausthiswallet？Tobesure，itseemedveryfulloftales；theseofferedheremaybebutthelegendswhichcamefirsttohishand。Theboatmanisnothimselfabelieverinthefairyworld，ornotmorethanallsensiblemenoughttobe。Thesupernaturalistoopleasantathingforustodiscardinanearnest，scientificmannerlikeMr。Kipling"sAurelianMcGubben。PerhapsIammoresuperstitiousthantheboatman，andtheyarnsIswoppedwithhimaboutghostsIhavemetwouldseemevenmoremendacioustopossessorsofpocketmicroscopesandofthemodernspirit。ButI

wouldratherhaveonebansheestorythanfifteenpagesofproofthat"life，whichbeganasacell，withac，istoendasasell，withans。"Itshouldbeaddedthattheboatmanhasgivenhisconsenttotheprintingofhisyarns。Onbeingofferedamoietyoftheprofits，heobservedthathehadnoobjectiontothese，butthatheentirelydeclinedtoberesponsibleforanyshareoftheexpenses。Wouldthatallauthorswereassagacious，forthentheamateurnovelistandtheminorpoetwouldvexusnomore。

PerhapsIshouldnotethatIhavenotmadetheboatmansay"whateffer，"becausehedoesn"t。TheoccasionaluseoftheimperfectisalmosthisonlyGaelicidiom。Itisagreatcomfortandpleasure，whenthetroutdonotrise，tomeetaskilledandunaffectednarratoroftheoldbeliefs，oldlegends，asancientasthehillsthatgirdleandguardtheloch，orasantique，atleast，asman"sdwellingamongthemountains——theYellowHill，theCalfHill，theHilloftheStack。Thebeautyofthescene，thepleasanttalk，thedaffodilsonthegreenisleamongtheCelticgraves，compensateforacertain"dourness"amongthefishesofLochAwe。

Ontheoccasionswhentheyarenotdourtheyriseverypleasantandfree，but，inthesebriefmoments，itisnotoflegendsandfolklorethatyouarethinking，butofthelanding-net。Theboatman，bytheway，waseithernotwellacquaintedwithMarchen——

Celticnursery-talessuchasCampbellofIslaycollected，orwasnotmuchinterestedinthem，or，perhaps，hadtheshynessaboutnarratingthisparticularsortofoldwives"fableswhichissocommon。PeoplewhodoknowthemseldomtelltheminSassenach。

LOCH-FISHING

LITTLELOCHBEG

Thereissomethingmysteriousinloch-fishing，inthetastesandhabitsofthefishwhichinhabittheinnumerablelakesandtarnsofScotland。Itisnotalwayseasytoaccounteitherfortheirpresenceortheirabsence，fortheirnumbersorscarcity，theireagernesstotakeortheir"dourness。"Forexample，thereisLochBorlan，closetothewell-knownlittleinnofAlt-na-geal-gachinSutherland。Unlessthatpieceofwaterisgreatlychanged，itissimplyfulloffishofaboutaquarterofapound，whichwillriseatalmostanytimetoalmostanyfly。Thereisnotmuchpleasureincatchingsuchtinyandeagertrout，butintheseasoncomplacentanglerscaptureandboastoftheirmanydozens。Ontheotherhand，ayearortwoago，abeginnertookafour-poundtrouttherewiththefly。IfsuchtroutexistinBorlan，itishardtoexplainthepresenceoftheinnumerablefry。Onewouldexpectthegiantsofthedeeptokeepdowntheirpopulation。Notfaroffisanothersmalllake，LochAwe，whichhasinvisibleadvantagesoverLochBorlan，yettherethetroutare，orwere，"fatandfairofflesh，"

likeTamlaneintheballad。WhereforearethetroutinLochTummellsobigandstrong，fromonetofivepounds，andsoscarce，whilethoseinLochAwearenumerousandsmall？Oneoccasionallyseesexamplesofhowquicklytroutwillincreaseinweight，andwhatcurioushabitstheywilladopt。Inacountyofsouth-westernScotlandthereisalargevillage，populatedbyakeenlydevotedsetofanglers，whomissnoopportunity。Withinaquarterofamileofthevillageisasmalltarn，verypicturesquelysituatedamonglowhills，andprovidedwiththeverytiniestfeederandoutflow。Thereisasluiceattheoutflow，and，forsomereason，thefarmerusedtoletmostofthewaterout，inthesummerofeveryyear。Inwinterthetarnisusedbythecurlingclub。Itisnotdeep，hasratheramarshybottom，andmanyducks，snipe，andwild-fowlgenerallydwellamongthereedsandmarishplantsofitssides。Nobodyeverdreamedoffishinghere，butonedayarustic，"glowering"idlyoverthewalloftheadjacentroad，sawfishrising。Hementionedhisdiscoverytoanangler，whoissaidtohavecaughtsomelargetrout，buttraditionvariesabouteverything，exceptthatthefisharevery"dour。"OneeveninginAugust，awarm，stillevening，Ihappenedtovisitthetarn。Assoonasthesunfellbelowthehills，itwasliterallyalivewithlargetroutrising。Asfarasonecouldestimatefromthebriefviewofheadsandshoulders，theyweresometimestwoorthreepoundsinweight。Igotmyrod，ofcourse，asdidaruralfriend。

Minewasasmallcanerod，hisasalmon-rod。IfishedwithoneTest-fly；hewiththreelargeloch-flies。Thefishwererisingactuallyatourfeet，buttheyseemedtomoveaboutverymuch，never，orseldom，risingtwiceexactlyatthesameplace。Thehypothesiswasstartedthattherewerebutfewofthem，andthattheyranroundandround，likeastagearmy，togiveanappearanceofmultitude。Butthisappearsimprobable。Whatiscertainwasourutterinabilityevertogetarisefromtheprovokingcreatures。Thedryflyisdifficulttouseonaloch，asthereisnostreamtomoveit，andhowevergentlyyoudrawititmakesa"wake"——atrailbehindit。Wetordry，or"twixtwetanddry，"

liketheconvivialpersoninthesong，wecouldnoneofusraisethem。Ididcatchasmallbutbeautifullyproportionedandpink-

fleshedtroutwiththealder，buteverythingelse，silversedgeandall，everythingfrommidgetoMay-fly，inthelatetwilight，wasofferedtotheminvain。Inwindyorcloudyweatheritwasjustasuseless；indeed，Ineversawthemrise，exceptinawarmsummerstillness，atandaftersunset。Probablytheywouldhavetakenasmallredworm，pitchedintotherippleofarise；butwedidnottrythat。Afterafewevenings，theyseemedtogiveuprisingaltogether。Idon"tfeelcertainthattheyhadnotbeennetted:

yetnotroutseemedtobeonsaleinthevillage。Theirpresenceinthewatermayperhapsbeaccountedforthus:theymayhavecomeintothelochfromtheriver，bywayofthetinyfeeder；buttheriver-troutarebothscarceandsmall。Anewfarmerhadgivenuplettingthewateroff，andprobablytheremusthavebeenveryrichfeeding，water-shrimpsorsnails，whichmightpartlyaccountfortherefusaltoriseattheartificialfly。Ortheymayhavebeenotteredbythevillagers，thoughthatwouldratherhavemadethemriseshortthannotriseatall。

Thereisanotherlochonanextremelyremotehillside，eightmilesfromthesmallesttown，inapastoralcountry。Therearetroutenoughintheloch，andofexcellentsizeandflavour，butyouscarcelyevergetthem。Theyrisefreely，buttheyALWAYSriseshort。Itis，Ithink，themostprovokinglochIeverfished。Youraisethem；theycomeupfreely，showingbroadsidesofaruddygold，likethehandsomestTesttrout，buttheyalmostinvariablymissthehook。Youdonotlandoneoutoftwenty。Thereasonis，apparently，thatpeoplefromthenearesttownusetheotterinthesummerevenings，whenthesetroutrisebest。InaSutherlandloch，Mr。EdwardMosstellsus(in"ASeasoninSutherland")，thatheoncefoundanelegantotter，awell-madeengineofsomeunscrupuloustourist，lyinginthebottomofthewateronasunnyday。AtLochSkene，onthetopofahill，twentymilesfromanytown，ottersareoccasionallyfoundbythekeeperortheshepherds，concealedneartheshore。Thepracticeofotteringcangivelittlepleasuretoanybutadepravedmind，andnothingeducatestroutsorapidlyinto"risingshort"；whytheyarenottobehadwhentheyarerisingmostvehemently，"tothemselves，"isanothermystery。A

fewrisesareencouraging，butwhenthewaterisallsplashingwithrises，asaruletheanglerisonlytantalised。Awindyday，adaywithalargeripple，butwithoutwhitewavesbreaking，is，asarule，bestforaloch。Insomelochsthesea-troutprefersuchahurricanethataboatcanhardlybekeptonthewater。Ihaveknownastrongnorthwindinautumnputdownthesea-trout，whereasthesalmonrose，withunusualeagerness，justintheshallowswherethewavesbrokeinfoamontheshore。ThebestdayIeverhadwithsea-troutwasmuggyandgrey，andthefishweremosteagerwhenthewaterwasstill，exceptforatremendouslyheavyshowerofrain，"asingingshower，"asGeorgeChapmanhasit。Onthatdaytworodscaughtthirty-ninesea-trout，weighingfortypounds。Butitisdifficulttosaybeforehandwhatdaywilldowell，exceptthatsunshineisbad，anorthwindworse，andnowindatallusuallymeansanemptybasket。Eventothisrulethereareexceptions，andoneoftheseisinthecaseofatarnwhichIshallcall，pleonastically，LittleLochBeg。

Thisisnottherealnameoftheloch——quiteenoughpeopleknowitsrealnamealready。Nordoesitseemnecessarytomentionthedistrictwherethelochlieshidden；sufficeittosaythatalandofmorestreamsandscarcertroutyouwillhardlyfind。Wehadtriedalltheriversandburnstonopurpose，andthelochsarecapriciousandoverfished。Onelochwehadnottried，LochBeg。

Youwalk，ordrive，afewmilesfromanyvillage，thenyouclimbafewhundredyardsofhill，andfromtheridgeyousee，ononehandagreatamphitheatreofgreenandpurplemountain-sides，inthewest；ontheeast，withinahundredyardsunderaslope，isLochBeg。Itisnotamileincircumference，andallbutsomeeightyyardsofshoreisdefendedagainsttheanglerbywidebedsofwater-lilies，withtheirprettywhitefloatinglamps，orbytallsedgesandreeds。Noristhewadingeasy。Fourstepsyoumakewithsafety，atthefifthyourforemostlegsinksinmudapparentlybottomless。Mostpeoplefishonlytheeasternside，whereofafewscoreyardsareopen，witharockyandgravellybottom。

Now，alllochshavetheirhumours。Insometroutlikeabigfly，insomeasmallone，butalmostalldobestwitharoughwindorrain。IknewenoughofLochBegtoapproachitatnoononablazingdayofsunshine，whenthesurfacewaslikeglass。ItwaslikethatwhenfirstIsawit，andashepherdwarnedusthatwe"woulddaenaething"；wedidlittle，indeed，butIrosenearlyeveryrisingfishIcastover，losingthemall，too，andinsomecasesbeingbroken，asIwasusingveryfinegut，andthefishwereheavy。Anothertrialseemeddesirable，andthenumberofrisingtroutwasmosttempting。Alloverittroutwererisingtothenaturalfly，withbigcircleslikethoseyouseeintheTestattwilight；whileinthecentre，wherenoartificialflycanbecastforwantofaboat，abigfishwouldthrowhimselfoutofthewaterinhiseagerness。OnesuchIsawwhichcouldnothaveweighedunderthreepounds，ashort，thick，dark-yellowfish。

Iwasusingalighttwo-handedrod，andfanciedthatasingleTest-

flyonveryfinetacklewouldbethebestlure。Itcertainlyrosethetrout，ifonethrewintothecircletheymade；buttheyneverwerehooked。Onefishofaboutapoundandahalfthrewhimselfoutofthewateratit，hitit，andbrokethefinetackle。SoI

wentonraisingthem，butnevergettingthem。Aslongasthesunblazedandnobreezeruffledthewater，theyrosebravely，butacloudorevenarippleseemedtosendthemdown。

AtlastItriedabigalder，andwiththatIactuallytouchedafew，andevenlandedseveralontheshelvingbank。Theiraverageweight，asweprovedonseveraloccasions，wasexactlythree-

quartersofapound；butweneversucceededinlandinganyofthereallybigones。

Alocalanglertoldmehehadcaughtoneoftwopounds，andlostanother"likeayounggrilse，"afterhehaddrawnitontothebank。Icaneasilybelieveit，forinnoloch，butone，haveI

everseensomanyreallybigandhandsomefishfeeding。LochBegiswithinamileofalargerandfamousloch，butitisinfinitelybetter，thoughtheotherlooksmuchmorefavourableinallwaysforsport。Theonlyplacewherefishingiseasy，asIhavesaid，isamerestripofcoastunderthehill，wherethereissomegravel，andthemouthofaverytinyfeeder，usuallydry。Offthisplacethetroutrosefreely，butnotnearsofreelyasinacertaincorner，quiteoutofreachwithoutaboat，wheretheleviathanslivedandsported。

Afterthelittleexpanseofopenshorehadbeenfishedoverafewtimes，thetroutthereseemedtogrowmoreshy，andtherewasacertainmonotonyinwalkingthistinyquarter-deckofspace。SoI

wentroundtothewestside，wherethewater-liliesare。Fishwererisingaboutthreeyardsbeyondtheweedybeds，andIfoolishlythoughtIwouldtryforthem。Now，youcannotoverestimatethedifficultyofcastingaflyacrossyardsofwater-lilies。Youcatchintheweedsasyouliftyourlineforafreshcast，andthenyouhavetoextricateitlaboriously，shorteningline，andthentoletitoutagain，andprobablycometogriefoncemore。

Isawatroutrise，withahugesullencircledimplingroundhim，castoverhim，raisedhim，andmissedhim。Thewaterwasperfectlystill，andthe"plop"madebythesefishwasveryexcitingandtantalising。Thenextthatrosetookthealder，and，ofcourse，ranrightintothebroadbandoflilies。ItriedallthedodgesI

couldthinkof，andallthatMr。Halfordsuggests。Idraggedathimhard。Igavehimline。Isatdownandendeavouredtodisengagemythoughts，butInevergotaglimpseofhim，andfinallyhadtowadeasfarinasIdared，andsaveasmuchofthecastinglineasIcould；itwasverylittle。

Therewasonethingtobesaidforthetroutonthisside:theymeantbusiness。Theydidnotriseshyly，liketheothers，butwentfortheflyifitcameatallnearthem，andthen，downtheyrushed，andboltedintothelily-roots。

Anewplanoccurredtome。IputonabouteighteeninchesofthestoutestgutIhad，totheendIknottedthebiggestsea-troutflyIpossessed，and，hookingthenextfishthatrose，Iturnedmybackonthelochandranuphillwiththerod。LookingbackIsawatroutwelloverapoundflyingacrossthelilies；butalas!theholdwasnotstrongenough，andhefellback。AgainandagainI

triedthismethod，invariablyhookingthetrout，thoughtheheavyshortcasting-lineandthebigflyfellveryawkwardlyinthedeadstillnessofthewater。Ihadsomeexcitingrunswiththem，fortheycameeagerlytothebigfly，anddidnotmissit，astheyhadmissedtheRedQuill，orWhitchurchDun，withwhichatfirstI

triedtobeguilethem。One，ofonlytheaverageweight，Ididdragoutoverthelilies；theothersfelloffinmid-journey，buttheyneverbroketheuncompromisingstouttackle。

Withthefirstchillofeveningtheyceasedrising，andIleftthem，notungratefulfortheirverypeculiarmannersandcustoms。

Thechancesarethatthetroutbeyondthebandofweedsneverseeanartificialfly，andtheyare，therefore，themoreguileless——atleast，lateintheseason。Inspring，Ibelieve，theliliesarelessintheway，andIfearsomeonehasputaBerthonboatonthelochinApril。ButitisnotsomuchwhatonecatchesinLochBeg，asthemonsterswhichonemightcatchthatmakethetarnsodesirable。

Thelochseemstoprovethatanyhill-tarnmightbemadeagoodplaceforsport，iftroutwereintroducedwheretheydonotexistalready。ButthesizeoftheseinLochBegpuzzlesme，norcanoneseehowtheybreed，asbreedtheydo:fortwiceorthriceIcaughtafingerling，andthrewhiminagain。Noburnrunsoutoftheloch，and，eveninaflood，thefeederissosmall，anditscoursesoextremelysteep，thatonecannotimaginewherethefishmanagetospawn。Theonlylochknowntomewherethecommontroutareofequalsize，isontheBorder。Itisextremelydeep，withveryclearwater，andwithscarceanyspawningground。Onasummereveningthetroutareoccasionallycaught；threeweighingsevenpoundsweretakenonenight，ayearortwoago。Ihavenottriedtheeveningfishing，butatallothertimesofdayhavefoundthemthe"dourest"oftrout，andtheygrowdourer。Butoneisalwaysluredonbythespectacleofthemonsterswhichthrowthemselvesoutofwater，withasplashthatechoesthroughallthecircuitofthelowgreenhills。Theyprobablyreachatleastfourorfivepounds，butitisunlikelythatthebiggesttakethefly，andonemaydoubtwhethertheypropagatetheirspecies，assmalltroutareneverseenthere。

Therearetwowaysofenlargingthesizeoftroutwhichshouldbecarefullyavoided。Pikearesupposedtokeepdownthepopulationandleavemorefoodforthesurvivors，minnowsaresupposedtobenourishingfood。Bothofthesenoveltiesaredangerous。Pikehavebeenintroducedinthatlonglovelysheetofwater，LochKen，andI

haveneveronceseentheriseofatroutbreakthatsurface，so"hideouslyserene。"Trout，inlochswhichhavebecomeaccustomedtofeedingonminnows，areapttodisdainflyaltogether。Ofcoursetherearelochsinwhichgoodtroutcoexistwithminnowsandwithpike，buttheseinmatesaretoodangeroustobeintroduced。

Theintroduction，too，ofLochLeventroutisoftendisappointing。

Sometimestheyescapedowntheburnintotheriverinfloods；

sometimes，perhapsforlackofproperfoodandsufficient，theydwindleterriblyinsize，andbecomenobetterthan"brownies。"InSt。Mary"sLoch，inSelkirkshire，someCanadiantroutwereintroduced。Littleornothinghasbeenseenofthem，unlesssomesmallcreaturesofaquarterofapound，extraordinarilysilvery，andmoreoftenintheairthaninthewaterwhenhooked，arethesechildrenoftheremoteWest。Iftheygrewup，andretainedtheirbeautyandsprightliness，theywouldbeexcellentsubstitutesforsea-trout。Almostallexperimentsinstockinglochshavetheirperils，exceptthesimpleexperimentofputtingtroutwheretherewerenotroutbefore。Thiscandonoharm，andtheymayincreaseinweight，letushopenotinwisdom，likethecuriouslyheavyandshyfishmentionedinthebeginningofthispaper。

LOCHLEVEN

Ihadafriendonce，anangler，whoinwinterwasfondofanothersport。HelikedtocasthislouisintothegreenbaizepondatMonteCarlo，and，onthewhole，hewasgenerally"broken。"Heseldomlandedthegoldenfishoftheoldman"sdreaminTheocritus。

Whenthecroupierhadgaffedallhismoneyhewouldrepentandsay，"Now，thatwouldhavekeptmeatLochLevenforafortnight。"OneusedtowonderwhetherafortnightofLochLevenwasworthanafternoonofthepleasureoflosingatMonteCarlo。Thelochhasanameforbeingcockneyfied，besetbywholefleetsofcompetitiveanglersfromvariousanglingclubsinScotland。Thatmenshouldcompetitivelyangleshows，indeed，agreatwantoftrueanglingsentiment。Tofishinacrowdisodious，toworkhardforprizesofflasksandcreelsandfly-booksistomistakethetruemeaningofthepastime。However，inthiscrowdedagemenaresoconstitutedthattheyliketoturnacontemplativeexerciseintoakindofBankHoliday。Thereisnouseinarguingwithsuchpersons；theworstoftheirpleasureisthatittendstochangeaScotchlochintosomethinglikethepondoftheWelshHarp，atHendon。ItisalwaysgoodnewstoreadinthepapershowtheDundeeWaltonSocietyhadabadday，andhowthefirstprizewaswonbyMr。Macneesh，withfivetroutweighingthreepoundsandthreequarters。LochLeven，then，iscrowdedandcockneyfiedbycompetitions；ithasalsonogreatnameforbeautyoflandscape。

Everyonetohisowntasteinnaturalbeauty，butinthisrespectI

thinkLochLevenisbetterthanitsreputation。Itiscertainlymorepictorial，sotospeak，thansomeremotemoorlochsupnearCapeWrath；Forsinardinparticular，wherethescenerylookslikeonegiganticseriesofbrown"baps，"flatScotchscones，alloflowelevation，allpreciselysimilartoeachother。

LochLevenisnotsuchacockneyplaceasthemajorityofmenwhohavenotvisiteditimagine。ItreallyislargerthantheWelshHarpatHendon，andthescenery，thoughnotlikethatofBenCruachanorBenMohr，excelsthelandscapeofMiddlesex。Atthenorthernendisasmalltown，grey，withsomeredroofsandoneortwocharacteristicFifeshirechurch-towers，squatandstrong。

Therearealsoafewfactorychimneys，whicharenotfairtooutwardview，norappropriatebyaloch-side。Onthewestarerangesofdistanthills，lowbutnotuncomely。Ontheeastrisesabeautifulmoorlandsteepwithbrokenandgracefuloutlines。Whenthesunshinesontheredtilledland，inspring；whenthesmokeofburninggorsecoilsupalldaylongintothesky，asiftheGreatSpiritweretakinghispipeofpeaceonthemountains；whentheislandsaremirroredontheglassywater，thentheartistrejoices，thoughtheanglerknowsthathewillwastehisday。Asfarasfishinggoes，heisboundtobe"clean，"astheboatmensay——tocatchnothing；butthesolemnpeace，andthewallsandruinedtowersofQueenMary"sprison，maypartiallyconsolethefisher。

Theaccommodationisagreeable，thereisapleasantinn——anoldtown-house，perhaps，ofsomegreatfamily，whenthegreatfamiliesdidnotrushuptoLondon，butspenttheirwintersinsuchcountrytownsasDumfriesandSt。Andrews。Theinnhasagreatgreengardenatitsdoors，andifthetalkismainlyoffishing，andifeveryonetellsofhismonstertroutthatescapedthenet，thereismuchworseconversationthanthat。

WhenyoureachKinross，and，afterexcellenthamandeggs，begintomakeastart，thecockneyelementismostvisibleatthefirst。

Everybody"snameisregisteredinabook；eachpaysaconsiderable，butnotexorbitant，feeforthesociety——oftenwellworththemoney——andtheassistanceofboatmen。Thesegentlemenarealsowellprovidedwithluncheonandbeer，and，onthewhole，thereismorepleasureinthelifeofaLochLevenboatmanthaninmostarts，crafts，orprofessions。Hetakestherodwhenhispatronislazy；itissaidthatheoftencatchesthetrout；{1}heseesagooddealofgoodcompany，and，ifhisbasketbeheavy，whosocontentashe？Thefirstthingistorowouttoagoodbay，andwhichwillproveagoodbaydependsonthestrengthanddirectionofthewind。Perhapsthebestfishingisfarthestoff，attheendofalongrow，butthebestsceneryisnotsodistant。Agooddealhangsonanearlystartwhentherearemanyboatsout。

LochLevenisarathershallowloch，seldommuchoverfifteenfeetdeep，savewherealongnarrowrentorgeologicalflawrunsthroughthebottom。Thewaterisofaqueerglaucousgreen，olive-

coloured，orratherlikethetintmadewhenyouwashoutaboxofwater-colourpaints。ThisisnotsoprettyastheblackwaveofLochAweorLochShin，buthasaredeemingqualityintherichnessofthefeedingfortrout。Thesearefabledtoaverageaboutapound，butareprobablyatrifleunderthatweight，onthewhole。

Theyarefamous，and，accordingtoSirWalterScott，werefamousaslongagoasinQueenMary"stime，forthebrightsilveroftheirsides，fortheirpinkflesh，andgamenesswhenhooked。Theoristshaveexplainedallthisbysayingthattheyarethedescendantsofland-lockedsalmon。ThefliesusedonthelocharesmallerthanthosefavouredintheHighlands；theyaresoldattachedtocasts，andfourfliesareactuallyemployedatonce。Probablytwoarequiteenoughatatime。Ifaveterantroutisattractedbyseeingfourflies，allofdifferentspecies，andtheselikenothinginnature，allconspiringtodescendonhimatonce，hemustbelesscautiousthanwegenerallyfindhim。TheHampshireangler，ofcourse，willsneeratthewholeproceeding，the"chuckingandchancingit，"inthequeer-colouredwave，andtheuseofsomanyfancifulentomologicalspecimens。ButtheHampshireanglerisverywelcometotryhisarts，inacalm，andhisnatural-lookingcocked-

upflies。HewillprobablybedefeatedbyagrocerfromGreenock，sinkinghisfourfliesverydeep，asis，bysomeexperts，recommended。Thetroutarecapricious，perhapsascapriciousasanyknowntotheangler，buttheyarebelievedtopreferastrongeastwindandadarkday。Theeastwindisnowhere，perhaps，sobadaspeoplefancy；itiscertainlynotsobadasthenorthwind，andonLochLevenitisthefavourite。Themanwhoisluckyenoughtohitontherightday，andtolandacoupleofdozenLochLeventrout，hasverygoodreasontocongratulatehimself，andneedenvynobody。Butsuchdaysandsuchtakesarerare，andthesummerof1890wasmuchmoreunfortunatethanthatof1889。

OnegreatmistakeismadebythecompanywhichfarmstheLoch，stocksit，suppliestheboats，andregulatesthefishing。Theypermittrollingwithangels，orphantoms，orthenaturalminnow。

Now，trollingmaybecomparativelylegitimate，whentheboatisbeingpulledagainstthewindtoitsdrift，butthereisnomoreskillinitthaninsittinginanomnibus。Butfortrolling，manyaboatwouldcomehome"clean"intheevening，ondaysofcalm，orwhen，forotherreasonsoftheirown，thetroutrefusetotaketheartificialfly。YettherearemenatLochLevenwhotrollallday，andpoorsportitmustbe，asatroutofapoundorsohasnochanceonatrolling-rod。Thismethodisinimicaltofly-fishing，butissuchaconsolationtotheinefficientanglerthatonecanhardlyexpecttoseeitabolished。Theunsuccessfulclamourfortrolling，insteadofconsolingthemselves，assportsmenshoulddo，withtheconversationofthegillies，theiranecdotesofgreattrout，andtheirreminiscencesofgreatanglers，especiallyofthelateMr。Russell，thefamededitorofthe"Scotsman。"Thishumouristisgradually"winninghiswaytothemythical。"Allfishingstoriesareattachedtohim；hiseloquenceissaid(inthelanguageofthehistorianoftheBuccaneers)tohavebeen"florid"；

heisreportedtohavethrownhisfly-bookintoLochLevenonanunluckyday，saying，"Youbrutes，takeyourchoice，"andarock，whichheoncehookedandheldonto，isnamedafterhim，ontheTweed。Inadditiontothehumaneandvariedconversationoftheboatmen，thereisalwaysthepurepleasureofsimplygazingatthehillsidesandattheislands。TheyareasmuchassociatedwiththememoryofMaryStuartasHermitageorevenHolyrood。Onthatislandwasherprison；heretherudeMortontriedtobullyherintosigningawayherrights；henceshemayoftenhavewatchedtheshoreatnightforthelightingofabeacon，asignthatarescuewasathand。

Thehills，atleast，aremuchasshemayhaveseenthem，andthesquaretowersandcrumblingwallsontheislandmethereyeswhentheywerealltoostrong。The"quay"isnolonger"rude，"aswhen"TheAbbot"waswritten，andiscrowdedwiththegreenboatsoftheLochLevenCompany。Butyoustilllandonherislandunder"thehugeoldtree"whichScottsaw，whichtheunhappyMarymayherselfhaveseen。Thesmallgardenandthestatuesaregone，thegardenwhenceRolandGraemeledMarytotheboatandtobrieflibertyandhopeunfulfilled。Onlyakindofground-planremainsofthehallswhereLindesayandRuthvenbrowbeatherforlornMajesty。ButyoumayclimbthestaircasewhereRolandGraemestoodsentinel，andfeelatouch，ofwhatPepysfeltwhenhekissedadeadQueen——

KatherineofValois。LikeRolandGraeme，theQueenmayhavebeen"weariedtodeathofthisCastleofLochLeven，"where，inspring，allseemssobeautiful，thetreesbuddingfreshlyabovetheyellowcelandineandamongthegreyprisonwalls。ItwasakindlierprisonhousethanFotheringay，andmindspeacefulandcontentedwouldgladlyhavetaken"thisforahermitage。"

TheRomanEmperorsusedtobanishtoopowerfulsubjectstothelovelyislesthatlielikeliliesontheAEgean。Plutarchtriedtoconsoletheseexiles，byshowingthemhowfortunatetheywere，farfromthebustleoftheForum，thevices，thetortures，thenoiseandsmokeofRome，happy，iftheychose，intheirgardens，withthebluewatersbreakingontherocks，and，asheiscarefultoadd，WITHPLENTYOFFISHING。Mr。Mahaffycallsthis"rhetoricalconsolation，"andtheexilesmayhavebeenofhismind。ButtheexileswouldhavebeenwisetolistentoPlutarch，and，hadI

enjoyedtheluckofMaryStuart，whenLochLevenwasnotoverfished，whenthetroutwereuneducated，neverwouldIhaveplungedintopoliticsagain。Shemighthavebeenveryhappy，withRonsard"slatestpoems，withItalianromances，withaboatontheloch，andsomeRizziotosingtoheronthestillsummerdays。

FromherCastleshewouldhearhowthepoliticiansweresquabbling，lying，raisingamantodivinityandstoninghimnextday，cuttingeachother"sheadsoff，swearingandforswearingthemselves，conspiringandcaballing。Suavemari，andthepeaceofLochLevenandtheislandhermitagewouldhavebeenthesweeterforthedinoutside。Awoman，aQueen，aStuart，couldnotattain，andperhapsoughtnottohaveattained，thisepicureanism。MaryStuarthadherchance，andmissedit；perhaps，afterall，hershrewishfemalegaolermadethepassionlesslifeimpossible。

These，atLochLeven，arenaturalreflections。Theplacehasacharmofitsown，especiallyifyoumakeupyourmindnottobedisappointed，nottotroll，andnottoenvythemorefortunateanglerswhoshouttoyouthenumberoftheirvictoriesacrossthewave。EvenatLochLevenwemaybecontemplative，maybequiet，andgoa-fishing。{2}

THEBLOODYDOCTOR

(ABADDAYONCLEARBURN)

Thouaskestme，mybrother，howfirstandwhereImettheBloodyDoctor？Thetaleisweird，soweirdthattoasoullessprovedthanthineIscarcedarespeakoftheadventure。

This，perhaps，wouldbetherightwayofbeginningastory(notthatitisastoryexactly)，withthetitleforcedonmebythenameandnatureofthehero。ButIdonotthinkIcouldkeepupthestylewithoutalady-collaborator；besides，Ihaveusedtheterm"weird"twicealready，andthusplayedawaythetrumpsofmodernpicturesquediction。ToreturntoourDoctor:manyabaddayhaveIhadonClearburnLoch，andneveragoodone。ButonethingdrawsmealwaystothelochwhenIhavethelucktobewithintwentymilesofit。TherearetroutinClearburn!TheBorderanglerknowsthatthetroutinhisnativewatersisnearlyasextinctasthedodo。Manycauseshavecombinedtoextirpatetheshyandspiritedfish。First，therearetoomanyanglers:

TwixtHolyLeeandClovenfords，Atentierbityecannahae，sangthatgoodoldangler，nowwithGod，Mr。ThomasTodStoddart。

ButbetweenHolyLeeandClovenfordsyoumayseehalfadozenrodsoneverypoolandstream。Theregoesthatleviathan，theanglerfromLondon，whohasbeenbeguiledhitherbytheartless"Guide"ofMr。WatsonLyall。Therefishesthefarmer"slad，andtheschoolmaster，andthewanderingweaveroutofworkordisinclinedtowork。Inhisrags，withhisthinfaceandred"goatee"beard，withhishazelwandandhishome-madereel，thereiswithalsomethingkindlyaboutthispoorfellow，thistruesportsman。Helovesbettertohearthelarksingthanthemousecheep；hewandersfromdepopulatedstreamtodepopulatedburn，andallisfishthatcomestohisfly。Fingerlingshekeeps，anddoesnotreturntothewater"aspityingtheiryouth。"Letusnotgrudgehimhissportaslongashefishesfair，andheisalwaysgoodcompany。Buthe，withalltheothercountlessfishermen，makefishsorareandsowarythat，exceptafterafloodinMeggatortheDouglasburn，troutarescarcetobetakenbyordinaryskill。AsforThaereivingcheilsFraeGalashiels，whousenets，andsalmonroe，andpoisons，anddynamite，theyaremiscreantsindeed；theyspoilthesport，notoftherich，butoftheirownclass，andofeverymanwhowouldbequiet，andgoanglinginthesacredstreamsofChristopherNorthandtheShepherd。Themills，withtheirdyesanddirt，arealsoresponsibleforthedearthoftrout。

Untaintedyetthystream，fairTeviot，runs，Leydensang；butnowthestreamisverymuchtaintedindeedbelowHawick，likeTweedintoomanyplaces。Thus，foradozenreasons，troutarenighasrareasreddeer。Clearburnaloneremainsfullofunsophisticatedfishes，andIhavethelesshesitationinrevealingthis，becauseIdonotexpectthewandererwhomayreadthispagetobeatallmoresuccessfulthanmyself。Nodoubttheyaresometimestobehad，bythebasketful，butnotoften，norbyhimwhothinkstwicebeforeriskinghislifebysmotheringinapeatybottom。

ToreachClearburnLoch，ifyoustartfromtheTeviot，youmustpassthroughmuchofScott"scountryandmostofLeyden"s。IamcrediblyinformedthatpersonsofculturehaveforgottenJohnLeyden。Hewasalinguistandapoet，andthefriendofWalterScott，andknewThemindwhosefearlessfranknessnaughtcouldmove，Thefriendship，likeanelderbrother"slove。

WerememberwhatdistantandwhatdeadlyshorehasLeyden"scoldremains，andpeoplewhodonotknowmaynotcaretobereminded。

LeavingTeviot，withLeydenforaguide，youwalk，ordrive，WhereBorthahoarse，thatloadsthemeadswithsand，Rollsherredtide。

Notthatitwasredwhenwepassed，butelectropurior。

Throughslatyhillswhosesidesareshaggedwiththorn，Wheresprings，inscatteredtufts，thedarkgreencorn，Towerswood-girtHardenfarabovethevale。

Andverydarkgreen，almostblue，wasthecorninSeptember，1888。

Upwards，alwaysupwards，goestheroadtillyoureachthecrest，andwatchfarbelowthewidechampaign，likeasea，brokenbytheshapesofhills，WindburgandEildon，andPriesthaughswire，and"theroughskirtsofstormyRuberslaw，"andPenchrise，andthetwinMaidens，shapedlikethebreastsofHelen。Itisanoldland，ofwar，ofOtterburn，andAncrum，andtheRaidoftheFairDodhead；