第5章

Thebeginnercanunderstandthebeginner，butthecrossbetweenhimandtheproficientperformeristoowideforfertility。Itsavoursofimpatience，andisinflatcontradictiontothefirstprinciplesofbiology。Itdoesabeginnerpositiveharmtolookatthemasterpiecesofthegreatexecutionists，suchasRembrandtorTurner。

Ifoneisclimbingaveryhighmountainwhichwilltaxallone"sstrength，nothingfatiguessomuchascastingupwardglancestothetop，nothingencouragessomuchascastingdownwardglances。Thetopseemsnevertodrawnearer；thepartsthatwehavepassedretreatrapidly。Letawater-colourstudentgoandseethedrawingbyTurner，inthebasementofourNationalGallery，dated1787。

Thisisthesortofthingforhim，nottocopy，buttolookatforaminuteortwonowandagain。Itwillshowhimnothingaboutpainting，butitmayservetoteachhimnottoovertaxhisstrength，andwillprovetohimthatthegreatestmastersinpainting，asineverythingelse，beginbydoingworkwhichisnowaysuperiortothatoftheirneighbours。Acollectionoftheearliestknownworksofthegreatestmenwouldbemuchmoreusefultothestudentthananynumberoftheirmaturerworks，foritwouldshowhimthatheneednotworryhimselfbecausehisworkdoesnotlookclever，orassillypeoplesay，"showpower。"

Thesecretsofsuccessareaffectionforthepursuitchosen，aflatrefusaltobehurriedortopassanythingasunderstoodwhichisnotunderstood，andanobstinacyofcharacterwhichshallmakethestudent"sfriendsfinditlesstroubletolethimhavehisownwaythantobendhimintotheirs。Ourschoolsandacademiesoruniversitiesarecovertly，butessentially，radicalinstitutionsandabhorrenttothegeniusofConservatism。Theirsinisthetrueradicalsinofbeingintoogreatahurry，andofbelievinginshortcutstoosoon。Butitmustberememberedthatthisproposition，likeeveryother，wantstemperingwithaslightinfusionofitsdirectopposite。

Isaidinanearlypartofthisbookthatthebesttesttoknowwhetherornoonelikesapictureistoaskone"sselfwhetheronewouldliketolookatitifonewasquitesureonewasalone。Thebesttestforapainterastowhetherhelikespaintinghispictureistoaskhimselfwhetherheshouldliketopaintitifhewasquitesurethatnooneexcepthimself，andthefewofwhomhewasveryfond，wouldeverseeit。Ifhecananswerthisquestionintheaffirmative，heisallright；ifhecannot，heisallwrong。I

willclosetheseremarkswithanillustrationwhichwillshowhownearlywecanapproachtheearlyFlorentinesevennow——whennobodyislookingatus。IdonotknowwhoMr。Pollardis。IneverheardofhimtillIcameacrossacheaplithographofhisFuneralofTomMoodyintheparlourofavillageinn。IshouldnotthinkheeverwasanR。A。，buthehasapproachedasnearlyasthedifferencebetweenthegeniusesofthetwocountrieswillallow，tothespiritofthepainterswhopaintedintheCampoSantoatPisa。Look，again，atGarrard，atthecloseofthelastcentury。Wegenerallysucceedwithsportingorquasi-sportingsubjects，andourcheapcolouredcoachingandhuntingsubjectsarealmostalwaysgood，andoftenverygoodindeed。Welikethesethings:thereforeweobservethem；thereforewesoonbecomeabletoexpressthem。

Historicalandcostumepictureswehavenogenuinelovefor；wedonot，therefore，gobeyondrepeatingcommonplacesconcerningthem。

Imustreserveotherremarksuponthissubjectforanotheroccasion。

CHAPTERXIII——Viu，Fucine，andS。IgnazioImustnowreturntomyyoungfriendatGroscavallo。Ihavepublishedhisdrawingswithouthispermission，havingunfortunatelylosthisnameandaddress，andbeingunablethereforetoapplytohim。Ihopethat，shouldtheyevermeethiseye，hewillacceptthisapologyandtheassuranceofmymostprofoundconsideration。

DelightedasIhadbeenwithhisproposedillustrations，IthoughtIhadbetterhearsomeoftheletterpress，soIbeggedhimtoreadmehisMS。Mytimewasshort，andhebeganatonce。Thefewintroductorypageswereverynice，buttherewasnothingparticularlynoticeableaboutthem；when，however，hecametohisdescriptionoftheplacewherewenowwere，hespokeofabeautifulyoungladyasattractinghisattentionontheeveningofhisarrival。Itseemedthatshewasasmuchstruckwithhimashewithher，andIthoughtweweregoingtohavearomance，whenheproceededasfollows:"Weperceivedthatweweresympathetic，andinlessthanaquarterofanhourhadexchangedthemostsolemnvowsthatwewouldnevermarryoneanother。""What？"saidI，hardlyabletobelievemyears，"willyoukindlyreadthoselastwordsoveragain？"Hedidso，slowlyanddistinctly；Icaughtthembeyondallpowerofmistake，andtheywereasIhavegiventhemabove:-"Weperceivedthatweweresympathetic，andinlessthanaquarterofanhourhadexchangedthemostsolemnvowsthatwewouldnevermarryoneanother。"WhileIwasrubbingmyeyesandmakingupmymindwhetherIhadstumbleduponagreatsatiristorno，I

heardavoicefrombelow——"SignorButler，SignorButler，lavetturaepronta。"Ihadthereforetoleavemydoubtunsolved，butallthetimeaswedrovedownthevalleyIhadthewordsabovequotedringinginmyhead。Ifeveranyofmyreaderscomeacrossthebookitself——forIshouldhopeitwillbepublished——Ishouldbeverygratefultothemiftheywilldirectmyattentiontoit。

AnotherdayIwenttoCeres，andreturnedonfootviaS。Ignazio。

S。Ignazioisafamoussanctuaryontheverytopofamountain，likethatofSammichele；butitislate，theSt。IgnatiusbeingSt。

IgnatiusLoyola，andnottheapostolicfather。Igotmydinneratavillageinnatthefootofthemountain，andfromthewindowcaughtsightofafrescouponthewallofachapelafewyardsoff。

Therewasacompaniontoithardlylessinteresting，butIhadnottimetosketchit。IdonotknowwhattheoneIgiveisintendedtorepresent。St。Ignatiusisuponarock，andispleasedwithsomething，butthereisnothingtoshowwhatitis，excepthisattitude，whichseemstosay，"Senzafarfatica，"——"YouseeIcandoitquiteeasily，"or，"Thereisnodeception。"NordoweeasilygatherwhatitisthattheRomancenturionissayingtoSt。

Ignatius。Icannotmakeupmymindwhetherheismerelywarninghimtobewareofthereaction，orwhetherheisalittlescandalised。

FromthisvillageIwentupthemountaintothesanctuaryofS。

Ignazioitself，whichlookswellfromthedistance，andcommandsastrikingview，butcontainsnothingofinterest，exceptafewnicevotivepictures。

FromLanzoIwenttoViu，asummerresortlargelyfrequentedbytheTurinese，butrarelyvisitedbyEnglishpeople。ThereisagoodinnatViu——theoneclosetowherethepublicconveyancestops——andtheneighbourhoodisenchanting。Thelittlevillageonthecrestofthehillinthedistance，totheleftofthechurch，asshownontheprecedingpage，iscalledtheColmadiS。Giovanni，andiswellworthavisit。Inspring，beforethegrassiscut，thepasturesmustbeevenbetterthanwhenIsawtheminAugust，andtheywerethenstillofalmostincrediblebeauty。

IwenttoS。Giovannibythedirectestway——descending，thatis，totheleveloftheStura，crossingit，andthengoingstraightupthemountain。IreturnedbyaslightdetoursoastotakethevillageofFucine，afrazioneofViualittlehigheruptheriver。Ifoundmanypicturesquebits；amongthemtheonewhichIgiveonthenextpage。Itwasagrandfesta；firsttheyhadhadmass，thentherehadbeenthefunzioni，whichIneverquiteunderstand，andthenceforthtillsundowntherewasapublicballonthebowlinggroundofalittleinnontheViusideofthebridge。Theprincipalinnisontheotherside。ItwashereIwentandordereddinner。Thelandladybroughtmeaminestra，orhodge-podgesoup，fullofsavouryvegetables，andverygood；anicecutletfriedinbread-crumbs，breadandbutteradlibitum，andhalfabottleofexcellentwine。Shebroughtalltogetheronatray，andputthemdownonthetable。"It"llcometoafranc，"saidshe，"inall，butpleasetopayfirst。"Ididso，ofcourse，andshewassatisfied。

AdayortwoafterwardsIwenttothesameinn，hopingtodineaswellandcheaplyasbefore；butIthinktheymusthavediscoveredthatIwasaforestiereingleseinthemeantime，fortheydidnotmakemepayfirst，andchargedmenormalprices。

Whatprettywordstheyhave!WhileeatingmydinnerIwantedasmallplateandaskedforit。ThelandladychangedthewordIhadused，andtoldagirltobringmeatondino。Atondinoisanabbreviationofrotondino，a"littleroundthing。"Aplateisatondo，asmallplateatondino。Thedelicacyofexpressionwhichtheirdiminutivesandintensitivesgiveisuntranslateable。OnedayIwasaskingafterawaiterwhomIhadknowninpreviousyears，butwhowasill。IsaidIhopedhewasnotbadlyoff。"Ohdear，no，"wastheanswer；"hehasadiscretaposizionina"——"asnuglittlesumputby。""Istheroadtosuchandsuchaplacedifficult？"Ionceinquired。"Untantino，"wastheanswer。"Eversuchaverylittle，"Isuppose，isasnearaswecangettothis。

AtoneinnIaskedwhetherIcouldhavemylinenbackfromthewashbyacertaintime，andwastolditwasimpossibilissimo。IhaveanItalianfriendlongresidentinEnglandwhooftenintroducesEnglishwordswhentalkingwithmeinItalian。ThusIhaveheardhimsaythatsuchandsuchathingistantocheapissimo。Asfortheirgestures，theyareinimitable。Tosaynothingoftheprettylittlewayinwhichtheysay"no，"bymovingtheforefingerbackwardsandforwardsonceortwice，theyhaveahundredmovementstosavethemselvesthetroubleofspeaking，whichsaywhattheyhavetosaybetterthananywordscando。ItisdelightfultoseeanItalianmovehishandinsuchwayastoshowyouthatyouhavegottogoroundacorner。Gestureiseasierbothtomakeandtounderstandthanspeechis。Speechisalateacquisition，andincriticalmomentsiscommonlydiscardedinfavourofgesture，whichisolderandmorehabitual。

IoncesawanItalianexplainingsomethingtoanotherandtappinghisnoseagreatdeal。Hebecamemoreandmoreconfidential，andthemoreconfidentialhebecame，themorehetapped，tillhisfingerseemedtobecomegluedto，andalmostgrowintohisnose。

Atlastthesuprememomentcame。Hedrewthefingerdown，pressingitcloselyagainsthislowerlip，soastodragitalldownandshowhisgumsandtherootsofhisteeth。"There，"heseemedtosay，"younowknowall:considermeasturnedinsideout:mymucousmembraneisbeforeyou。"

AtFucine，andindeedinallthevalleyshereabout，spinning-wheelsarenotuncommon。Ialsosawawomansittinginherroomwiththedooropeningontothestreet，weavinglinenatahand-loom。Thewomanandthehand-loomwerebothveryoldandrickety。Thefirstandthelastspecimensofanything，whetheranimalorvegetableorganism，ormachine，orinstitution，areseldomquitesatisfactory。SomefiveorsixyearsagoIsawanoldgentlemansittingoutsidetheSt。LawrenceHallatMontreal，inCanada，andwearingapigtail，butitwasnotagoodpigtail；andwhentheScotchbaronkilledthelastwolfinScotland，itwasprobablyaweak，mangyoldthing，capableoflittlefurthermischief。

PresentlyIwalkedamileortwouptheriver，andmetagodfathercomingalongwithacradleonhisshoulder；hewasfollowedbytwowomen，onecarryingsomelongwaxcandles，andtheothersomethingwrappedupinapieceofbrownpaper；theyweregoingtogetthechildchristenedatFucine。SoonafterImetapriest，andbowed，asamatterofcourse。Intownsorplaceswheremanyforeignerscomeandgothisisunnecessary，butinsmallout-of-the-wayplacesoneshouldtakeone"shatofftothepriest。ImentionthisbecausemanyEnglishmendonotknowthatitisexpectedofthem，andneglecttheaccustomedcourtesythroughignorance。Surely，evenhereinEngland，ifoneisinasmallcountryvillage，offone"sbeat，andmeetstheclergyman，itismorepolitethannottotakeoffone"shat。

ViuisoneoftheplacesfromwhichpilgrimsascendtheRoccaMeloneatthebeginningofAugust。ThisisoneofthemostpopularandremarkablepilgrimagesofNorthItaly；theRoccaMeloneis11，000feethigh，andformsapeaksosharp，thatthereisroomforlittleelsethanthesmallwoodenchapelwhichstandsatthetopofit。Thereisnoaccommodationwhatever，exceptatsomeroughbarracks(soIhavebeentold)somethousandsoffeetbelowthesummit。These，Iwasinformed，aresometimessocrowdedthatthepeopledozestanding，andthecoldatnightisintense，unlessundertheshelterjustreferredto；yetsomefiveorsixthousandpilgrimsascendonthedayandnightofthefesta——chieflyfromSusa，butalsofromallpartsofthevalleysoftheDoraandtheStura。TheyleaveSusaearlyinthemorning，campoutorgetshelterinthebarracksthatevening，reachingthechapelatthetopoftheRoccaMelonenextday。Ihavenotmadetheascentmyself，butitwouldprobablybeworthmakingbyonewhodidnotmindthefatigue。

ImaymentionthatthatchisnotuncommonintheSturavalley。IntheValMastallone，andmoreespeciallybetweenCiviasco(aboveVarallo)andOrta，thatchismorecommonstill，andthethatchingisoftenverybeautifullydone。ThatchinastonecountryisanindicationofGerman，oratanyrateCisalpinedescent，andisamongthemanyproofsoftheextenttowhichGermanracescrossedtheAlpsandspreadfardownoverPiedmontandLombardy。IwasmorestruckwithtracesofGermaninfluenceonthepathfromPellaontheLagod"Orta，totheColmaonthewaytoVarallo，thanperhapsanywhereelse。Thechurcheshaveatendencytohavepurespires——athingneverseeninItalyproper；clippedyewsandbox-

treesarecommon；therearelime-treesinthechurchyards，andthatchistherule，nottheexception。AtRimellaintheValMastallone，notfaroff，Germanisstillthecurrentlanguage。AsIsatsketching，awomancameuptome，andsaid，"Wasmachensic？"

asamatterofcourse。Rimellaisthehighestvillageinitsvalley，yetifonecrossesthesaddleattheheadofthevalley，onedoesnotdescenduponaGerman-speakingdistrict；onedescendsontheValAnzasca，whereItalianisuniversallyspoken。UntilrecentlyGermanwasthelanguageofmanyothervillagesattheheadsofvalleys，eventhoughthesevalleyswerethemselvesentirelysurroundedbyItalian-speakingpeople。AtAlagnaintheValSesia，Germanisstillspoken。

Whatevertheirorigin，however，thepeoplearenowthoroughlyItalianised。Nevertheless，asIhavealreadysaid，itisstrangewhatanumberofpeopleonemeetsamongthem，whommostpeoplewouldunhesitatinglypronouncetobeEnglishifaskedtonametheirnationality。

CHAPTERXIV——SanctuaryofOropaFromLanzoIwentbacktoTurin，whereJonesagainjoinedme，andweresolvedtogoandseethefamoussanctuaryofOropanearBiella。Biellaisaboutthreehours"railwayjourneyfromTurin。

Itisreachedbyabranchlineofsometwentymiles，thatleavesthemainlinebetweenTurinandMilanatSanthia。ExcepttheviewoftheAlps，whichinclearweathercannotbesurpassed，thereisnothingofveryparticularinterestbetweenTurinandSanthia，norneedSanthiadetainthetravellerlongerthanhecanhelp。Biellawefoundtoconsistofanupperandalowertown——theupper，asmaybesupposed，beingtheolder。Itisattheveryjunctionoftheplainandthemountains，andisathrivingplace，withmoreofthebusyairofanEnglishcommercialtownthanperhapsanyotherofitssizeinNorthItaly。Evenintheoldtownlargeramblingoldpalazzihavebeenconvertedintofactories，andtheclickoftheshuttleisheardinunexpectedplaces。

WewereunabletofindthatBiellacontainsanyremarkablepicturesorotherworksofart，thoughtheyaredoubtlesstobefoundbythosewhohavethetimetolookforthem。Thereisaveryfinecampanilenearthepost-office，andanoldbrickbaptistery，alsohardby；butthechurchtowhichbothcampanileandbaptisterybelonged，has，astheauthorof"RoundaboutLondon"sowellsays，been"utterlyrestored；"itcannotbeuglierthanwhatwesometimesdo，butitisquiteasugly。WefoundanItalianoperacompanyinBiella；peepingthroughagrating，asmanyothersweredoing，wewatchedthecompanyrehearsing"Laforzadeldestino，"whichwastobegivenlaterintheweek。

Themorningafterourarrival，wetookthedailydiligenceforOropa，leavingBiellaateighto"clock。Beforewewereclearofthetownwecouldseethelonglineofthehospice，andthechapelsdottedaboutnearit，highupinavalleyatsomedistanceoff；

presentlywewereshownanotherfinebuildingsomeeightorninemilesaway，whichweweretoldwasthesanctuaryofGraglia。AboutthistimethepicturesandstatuettesoftheMadonnabegantochangetheirhueandtobecomeblack——forthesacredimageofOropabeingblack，alltheMadonnasinherimmediateneighbourhoodareofthesamecomplexion。Underneathsomeofthemiswritten，"Nigrasumsedsumformosa，"which，asarule，wasmoretrueasregardsthefirstepithetthanthesecond。

Itwasnotmarket-day，butstreamsofpeoplewerecomingtothetown。Manyofthemwerepilgrimsreturningfromthesanctuary，butmorewerebringingtheproduceoftheirfarms，ortheworkoftheirhandsforsale。Wehadtofaceasteadystreamofchairs，whichwerecomingtotowninbasketsuponwomen"sheads。Eachbasketcontainedtwelvechairs，thoughwhetheritiscorrecttosaythatthebasketcontainedthechairs——whenthechairswereall，sotosay，frothrunningoverthetopofthebasket——isapointIcannotsettle。Certainlywehadneverseenanythinglikesomanychairsbefore，andfeltalmostasthoughwehadsurprisednatureinthelaboratorywherefromsheturnsoutthechairsupplyoftheworld。

TheroadcontinuedthroughasuccessionofvillagesalmostrunningintooneanotherforalongwayafterBiellawaspassed，buteverywherewenoticedthesameairofbusythrivingindustrywhichwehadseeninBiellaitself。Wenotedalsothatapreponderanceofthepeoplehadlighthair，whilethatofthechildrenwasfrequentlynearlywhite，asthoughtheinfusionofGermanbloodwasherestrongereventhanusual。Thoughsothicklypeopled，thecountrywasofgreatbeauty。Nearathandwerethemostexquisitepasturescloseshavenaftertheirsecondmowing，gaywithautumnalcrocuses，andshadedwithstatelychestnuts；beyondwereruggedmountains，inacombeononeofwhichwesawOropaitselfnowgraduallynearing；behindandbelow，manyvillageswithvineyardsandterracescultivatedtothehighestperfection；furtheron，Biellaalreadydistant，andbeyondthisa"bigstare，"asanAmericanmightsay，overtheplainsofLombardyfromTurintoMilan，withtheApenninesfromGenoatoBolognahemmingthehorizon。Ontheroadimmediatebeforeus，westillfacedthesamesteadystreamofchairsflowingeverBiella-ward。

Afteracoupleofhoursthehousesbecamemorerare；wegotabovethesourcesofthechair-stream；bitsofroughrockbegantojutoutfromthepasture；hereandtheretherhododendronbegantoshowitselfbytheroadside；thechestnutsleftoffalongalineaslevelasthoughcutwithaknife；stone-roofedcascinebegantoabound，withgoatsandcattlefeedingnearthem；theboothsofthereligioustrinket-mongersincreased；theblind，halt，andmaimedbecamemoreimportunate，andthefoot-passengersweremoreentirelycomposedofthosewhoseobjectwas，orhadbeen，avisittothesanctuaryitself。Thenumbersofthesepilgrims——generallyintheirSunday"sbest，andoftencomprisingthegreaterpartofafamily——weresogreat，thoughtherewasnospecialfesta，astotestifytothepopularityoftheinstitution。Theygenerallywalkedbarefoot，andcarriedtheirshoesandstockings；theirbaggageconsistedofafewspareclothes，alittlefood，andapotorpanortwotocookwith。Manyofthemlookedverytired，andhadevidentlytrampedfromlongdistances——indeed，wesawcostumesbelongingtovalleyswhichcouldnotbelessthantwoorthreedaysdistant。Theywerealmostinvariablyquiet，respectable，anddecentlyclad，sometimesalittlemerry，butnevernoisy，andnoneofthemtipsy。Aswetravelledalongtheroad，wemusthavefalleninwithseveralhundredsofthesepilgrimscomingandgoing；noristhislikelytobeanextravagantestimate，seeingthatthehospicecanmakeupmorethanfivethousandbeds。Byelevenwewereatthesanctuaryitself。

Fancyaquietuplandvalley，thefloorofwhichisaboutthesameheightasthetopofSnowdon，shutinbyloftymountainsuponthreesides，whileonthefourththeeyewandersatwillovertheplainsbelow。Fancyfindingalevelspaceinsuchavalleywateredbyabeautifulmountainstream，andnearlyfilledbyapileofcollegiatebuildings，notlessimportantthanthose，wewillsay，ofTrinityCollege，Cambridge。True，OropaisnotintheleastlikeTrinity，exceptthatoneofitscourtsislarge，grassy，hasachapelandafountaininit，androomsallroundit；butIdonotknowhowbettertogivearoughdescriptionofOropathanbycomparingitwithoneofourlargestEnglishcolleges。

Thebuildingsconsistoftwomaincourts。Thefirstcomprisesacoupleofmodernwings，connectedbythemagnificentfacadeofwhatisnowthesecondorinnercourt。Thisfacadedatesfromaboutthemiddleoftheseventeenthcentury；itsloweststoreyisformedbyanopencolonnade，andthewholestandsuponaraisedterracefromwhichanobleflightofstepsdescendsintotheoutercourt。

Ascendingthestepsandpassingunderthecolonnade，wefoundourselvesinthesecondorinnercourt，whichisacompletequadrangle，andis，weweretold，ofratherolderdatethanthefacade。ThisisthequadranglewhichgivesitscollegiatecharactertoOropa。Itissurroundedbycloistersonthreesides，ontowhichtheroomsinwhichthepilgrimsarelodgedopen——thoseatleastthatareontheground-floor，fortherearethreestoreys。

Thechapel，whichwasdedicatedintheyear1600，jutsoutintothecourtuponthenorth-eastside。Onthenorth-westandsouth-westsidesareentrancesthroughwhichonemaypasstotheopencountry。

Thegrass，atthetimeofourvisit，wasforthemostpartcoveredwithsheetsspreadouttodry。Theylookedverynice，and，driedonsuchgrassandinsuchanair，theymustbedelicioustosleepon。Thereis，indeed，ratheranappearanceasthoughitwereaperpetualwashing-dayatOropa，butthisisnottobewonderedatconsideringthenumbersofcomersandgoers；besides，peopleinItalydonotmakesomuchfussabouttriflesaswedo。Iftheywanttowashtheirsheetsanddrythem，theydonotsendthemtoEaling，butlaythemoutinthefirstplacethatcomeshandy，andnobody"sbonesarebroken。

CHAPTERXV——Oropa(continued)

OntheeastsideofthemainblockofbuildingsthereisagrassyslopeadornedwithchapelsthatcontainillustratingscenesinthehistoryoftheVirgin。Thesefiguresareofterra-cotta，forthemostpartlife-size，andpainteduptonature。Insomecases，ifI

rememberrightly，theyhavehemporflaxforhair，asatVarallo，andthroughoutrealismisaimedatasfaraspossible，notonlyinthefigures，butintheaccessories。WehaveverylittleofthesamekindinEngland。IntheTowerofLondonthereisaneffigyofQueenElizabethgoingtothecitytogivethanksforthedefeatoftheSpanishArmada。ThislooksasifitmighthavebeentheworkofsomeoneoftheValsesiansculptors。TherearealsothefiguresthatstrikethequartersofSirJohnBennett"scityclockinCheapside。Theautomaticmovementsoftheselast-namedfigureswouldhavestrucktheoriginatorsoftheVarallochapelswithenvy。

Theyaimedatrealismsocloselythattheywouldassuredlyhavehadrecoursetoclockworkinsomeoneortwooftheirchapels；Icannotdoubt，forexample，thattheywouldhaveeagerlywelcomedtheideaofmakingthecockcrowtoPeterbyacuckoo-clockarrangement，ifithadbeenpresentedtothem。Thisopensupthewholequestionofrealismversusconventionalisminart——asubjectmuchtoolargetobetreatedhere。

AsIhavesaid，thefoundersoftheseItalianchapelsaimedatrealism。Eachchapelwasintendedasanillustration，andthedesirewastobringthewholescenemorevividlybeforethefaithfulbycombiningthepicture，thestatue，andtheeffectofasceneuponthestageinasingleworkofart。Theattemptwouldbeanambitiousone，thoughmadeonceonlyinaneighbourhood，butinmostoftheplacesinNorthItalywhereanythingofthekindhasbeendone，thepeoplehavenotbeencontentwithasingleillustration；ithasbeentheirschemetotakeamountainasthoughithadbeenabookorwallandcoveritwithillustrations。Insomecases——asatOrta，whoseSacroMonteisperhapsthemostbeautifulofallasregardsthesiteitself——thefailureiscomplete，butinsomeofthechapelsatVareseandinmanyofthoseatVarallo，greatworkshavebeenproducedwhichhavenotyetattractedasmuchattentionastheydeserve。Itmaybedoubted，indeed，whetherthereisamoreremarkableworkofartinNorthItalythantheCrucifixionchapelatVarallo，wherethetwenty-fivestatues，aswellasthefrescoesbehindthem，are(withtheexceptionofthefigureofChrist，whichhasbeenremoved)byGaudenzioFerrari。Itistobewishedthatsomeoneofthesechapels——bothchapelandsculptures——werereproducedatSouthKensington。

Varallo，whichisundoubtedlythemostinterestingsanctuaryinNorthItaly，hasforty-fouroftheseillustrativechapels；Varese，fifteen；Orta，eighteen；andOropa，seventeen。Nooneisallowedtoenterthem，exceptwhenrepairsareneeded；butwhenthesearegoingon，asisconstantlythecase，itiscurioustolookthroughthegratingintothesomewhatdarkenedinterior，andtoseealivingfigureortwoamongthestatues；alittlemotiononthepartofasinglefigureseemstocommunicateitselftotherestandmakethemallmoreanimated。Ifthelivingfiguredoesnotmovemuch，itiseasyatfirsttomistakeitforaterra-cottaone。AtOrta，someyearssince，lookingoneeveningintoachapelwhenthelightwasfading，IwassurprisedtoseeasaintwhomIhadnotseenbefore；hehadnogloryexceptwhatshonefromaveryrednose；hewassmokingashortpipe，andwaspaintingtheVirginMary"sface。

Thetouchwasafinishingone，putonwithdeliberation，slowly，sothatitwastwoorthreesecondsbeforeIdiscoveredthattheinterloperwasnosaint。

ThefiguresinthechapelsatOropaarenotasgoodasthebestofthoseatVarallo，butsomeofthemareverynicenotwithstanding。

Welikedtheseventhchapelthebest——theonewhichillustratesthesojournoftheVirginMaryinthetemple。Itcontainsforty-fourfigures，andrepresentstheVirginonthepointofcompletinghereducationasheadgirlatahigh-tonedacademyforyounggentlewomen。Alltheyoungladiesareatworkmakingmitresforthebishop，orworkingslippersinBerlinwoolforthenewcurate，buttheVirginsitsonadaisabovetheothersonthesameplatformwiththevenerablelady-principal，whoishavingpassagesreadouttoherfromsomestandardHebrewwriter。Thestatuesaretheworkofalocalsculptor，namedAureggio，wholivedattheendoftheseventeenthandbeginningoftheeighteenthcentury。

Thehighestchapelmustbeacoupleofhundredfeetabovethemainbuildings，andfromnearitthereisanexcellentbird"s-eyeviewofthesanctuaryandthesmallplainbehind；descendingontothislast，weenteredthequadranglefromthenorth-westsideandvisitedthechapelinwhichthesacredimageoftheMadonnaiscontained。Wedidnotseetheimageitself，whichisonlyexposedtopublicviewongreatoccasions。ItisbelievedtohavebeencarvedbySt。LuketheEvangelist。ImustaskthereadertocontenthimselfwiththefollowingaccountofitwhichItakefromMarocco"sworkuponOropa。:-

"ThatthisstatueoftheVirginisindeedbySt。LukeisattestedbySt。Eusebius，amanofeminentpietyandnolessenlightenedthantruthful。St。Eusebiusdiscovereditsoriginbyrevelation；

andthestorewhichhesetbyitisprovedbyhisshrinkingfromnodiscomfortsinhiscarriageofitfromadistantcountry，andbyhisanxietytoputitinaplaceofgreatsecurity。Hisdesire，indeed，wastokeepitinthespotwhichwasmostnearanddeartohim，sothathemightextractfromitthehigherincitementtodevotion，andmoresensiblecomfortinthemidstofhisausteritiesandapostoliclabours。

"Thistruthisfurtherconfirmedbythequalityofthewoodfromwhichthestatueiscarved，whichiscommonlybelievedtobecedar；

bytheEasterncharacterofthework；bytheresemblancebothofthelineamentsandthecolourtothoseofotherstatuesbySt。

Luke；bythetraditionoftheneighbourhood，whichextendsinanunbrokenandwell-assuredlinetothetimeofSt。Eusebiushimself；

bythemiraclesthathavebeenworkedherebyitspresence，andelsewherebyitsinvocation，orevenbyindirectcontactwithit；

bythemiracles，lastly，whichareinherentintheimageitself，{23}andwhichenduretothisday，suchasisitsimmunityfromallwormandfromthedecaywhichwouldnaturallyhaveoccurredinitthroughtimeanddamp——moreespeciallyinthefeet，throughtherubbingofreligiousobjectsagainstthem。

***

"Theauthenticityofthisimageissocertainlyandclearlyestablished，thatallsuppositiontothecontrarybecomesinexplicableandabsurd。Such，forexample，isahypothesisthatitshouldnotbeattributedtotheEvangelist，buttoanotherLuke，alsocalled"Saint，"andaFlorentinebybirth。Thispainterlivedintheeleventhcentury——thatistosay，aboutsevencenturiesaftertheimageofOropahadbeenknownandvenerated!Thisisindeedananachronism。

"OtherdifficultiesdrawneitherfromtheancientdisciplineoftheChurch，orfromSt。LuketheEvangelist"sprofession，whichwasthatofaphysician，vanishatoncewhenitisborneinmind——

firstly，thatthecultofholyimages，andespeciallyofthatofthemostblessedVirgin，isofextremeantiquityintheChurch，andofapostolicoriginasisprovedbyecclesiasticalwritersandmonumentsfoundinthecatacombswhichdateasfarbackasthefirstcentury(seeamongotherauthorities，Nicolas，"LaVergineviventenellaChiesa，"lib。iii。cap。iii。SS2)；secondly，thatasthemedicalprofessiondoesnotexcludethatofartist，St。Lukemayhavebeenbothartistandphysician；thathedidactuallyhandleboththebrushandthescalpelisestablishedbyrespectableandveryoldtraditions，tosaynothingofotherargumentswhichcanbefoundinimpartialandlearnedwritersuponsuchmatters。"

Iwillonlygiveonemoreextract。Itruns:-

"In1855acelebratedRomanportrait-painter，afterhavingcarefullyinspectedtheimageoftheVirginMaryatOropa，declaredittobecertainlyaworkofthefirstcenturyofourera。"{24}

IoncesawacommoncheapchinacopyofthisMadonnaannouncedastobegivenawaywithtwopoundsoftea，inashopnearHattonGarden。

Thechurchinwhichthesacredimageiskeptisinterestingfromthepilgrimswhoatalltimesfrequentit，andfromthecollectionofvotivepictureswhichadornitswalls。Exceptthevotivepicturesandthepilgrimsthechurchcontainslittleofinterest，andIwillpassontotheconstitutionandobjectsoftheestablishment-

Theobjectsare——1。Gratuitouslodgingtoallcomersforaspaceoffromthreetoninedaysastherectormaythinkfit。2。A

school。3。Helptothesickandpoor。Itisgovernedbyapresidentandsixmembers，whoformacommittee。Fourmembersarechosenbythecommunalcouncil，andtwobythecathedralchapterofBiella。Atthehospiceitselfthereresideadirector，withhisassistant，asurveyortokeepthefabricinrepair，arectorordeanwithsixpriests，calledcappellani，andamedicalman。"Thegovernmentofthelaundry，"sorunsthestatuteonthishead，"andanalogousdomesticservicesareentrustedtoacompetentnumberofladiesofsoundconstitutionandgoodconduct，wholivetogetherinthehospiceunderthedirectionofaninspectress，andarecalleddaughtersofOropa。"

Thebye-lawsoftheestablishmentareconceivedinakindlygenialspirit，whichingreatmeasureaccountsforitsunmistakeablepopularity。Weunderstoodthatthepoorervisitors，asageneralrule，availthemselvesofthegratuitouslodging，withoutmakinganypresentwhentheyleave，butinspiteofthisitisquiteclearthattheyarewantedtocome，andcometheyaccordinglydo。Itissometimesdifficulttolayone"shandsupontheexactpassageswhichconveyanimpression，butaswereadthebye-lawswhicharepostedupinthecloisters，wefoundourselvescontinuallysmilingatthemannerinwhichalmostanythingthatlookedlikeaprohibitioncouldberemovedwiththeconsentofthedirector。

Thereisnorulewhateveraboutvisitorsattendingthechurch；allthatisrequiredofthemisthattheydonotinterferewiththosewhodo。Theymustnotplaygamesofchance，ornoisygames；theymustnotmakemuchnoiseofanysortafterteno"clockatnight(whichcorrespondsaboutwithmidnightinEngland)。Theyshouldnotdrawuponthewallsoftheirrooms，norcutthefurniture。

Theyshouldalsokeeptheirroomsclean，andnotcookinthosethataremoreexpensivelyfurnished。Thisisaboutallthattheymustnotdo，exceptfeetheservants，whichismostespeciallyandparticularlyforbidden。Ifanyoneinfringestheserules，heistobeadmonished，andincaseofgraveinfractionorcontinuedmisdemeanourhemaybeexpelledandnotreadmitted。

Visitorswhoarelodgedinthebetter-furnishedapartmentscanbewaiteduponiftheyapplyattheoffice；thechargeistwopenceforcleaningaroom，makingthebed，bringingwater，&c。Ifthereismorethanonebedinaroom，apennymustbepaidforeverybedoverthefirst。Bootscanbecleanedforapenny，shoesforahalf-penny。Forcarryingwood，&c。，eitherahalfpennyorapennywillbeexactedaccordingtothetimetaken。Paymentfortheseservicesmustnotbemadetotheservant，butattheoffice。

Thegatescloseatteno"clockatnight，andopenatsunrise，"butifanyvisitorwishestomakeAlpineexcursions，orhasanyothersufficientreason，heshouldletthedirectorknow。"Familiesoccupyingmanyroomsmust——whenthehospiceisverycrowded，andwhentheyhavehadduenotice——managetopackthemselvesintoasmallercompass。Noonecanhaveroomskeptforhim。Itistobestrictly"firstcome，firstserved。"Noonemustsublethisroom。

Visitorsmustnotgoawaywithoutgivingupthekeyoftheirroom。

Candlesandwoodmaybeboughtatafixedprice。

Anyonewishingtogiveanythingtothesupportofthehospicemustdosoonlytothedirector，theofficialwhoappointstheapartments，thedeanorthecappellani，ortotheinspectressofthedaughtersofOropa，buttheymusthaveareceiptforeventhesmallestsum；alms-boxes，however，areplacedhereandthere，intowhichthesmallerofferingsmaybedropped(weimaginethismeansanythingunderafranc)。

Thepoorwillbefedaswellashousedforthreedaysgratuitously——

providedtheirhealthdoesnotrequirealongerstay；buttheymustnotbegonthepremisesofthehospice；professionalbeggarswillbeatoncehandedovertothemendicitysocietyinBiella，orevenperhapstoprison。Thepoorforwhomahydropathiccourseisrecommended，canhaveitundertheregulationsmadebythecommittee——thatistosay，ifthereisavacantplace。

Therearetrattorieandcafesatthehospice，whererefreshmentsmaybeobtainedbothgoodandcheap。MeatistobesoldthereatthepricescurrentinBiella；breadattwocentimesthechilogrammamore，topayforthecostofcarriage。

Sucharethebye-lawsofthisremarkableinstitution。Fewexcepttheveryricharesounder-workedthattwoorthreedaysofchangeandrestarenotattimesaboontothem，whilethemereknowledgethatthereisaplacewherereposecanbehadcheaplyandpleasantlyisitselfasourceofstrength。Here，solongasthevisitorwishestobemerelyhoused，noquestionsareasked；nooneisrefusedadmittance，exceptforsomeobviouslysufficientreason；

itislikegettingareadingticketfortheBritishMuseum，thereispracticallybutonetest——thatistosay，desireonthepartofthevisitor——thecomingprovesthedesire，andthissuffices。A

family，wewillsay，hasjustgathereditsfirstharvest；theheatontheplainsisintense，andthemalariafromthericegroundslittlelessthanpestilential；what，then，canbenicerthantolockupthehouseandgoforthreedaystothebracingmountainairofOropa？Soatdaybreakofftheyallstart，trudging，itmaybe，theirthirtyorfortymiles，andreachingOropabynightfall。Ifthereisaweaklyoneamongthem，somearrangementissuretobepracticable，wherebyheorshecanbehelpedtofollowmoreleisurely，andcanremainlongeratthehospice。Oncearrived，theygenerally，itistrue，gotheroundofthechapels，andmakesomeslightshowofpilgrimage，butthemainpartoftheirtimeisspentindoingabsolutelynothing。Itissufficientamusementtothemtositonthesteps，orlieaboutundertheshadowofthetrees，andneithersayanythingnordoanything，butsimplybreathe，andlookattheskyandateachother。Wesawscoresofsuchpeoplejustrestinginstinctivelyinakindofblissfulwakingdream。Otherssaunteralongthewalkswhichhavebeencutinthewoodsthatsurroundthehospice，oriftheyhavebeenpentupinatownandhaveafancyforclimbing，therearemountainexcursions，forthemakingofwhichthehospiceaffordsexcellentheadquarters，andwhicharelookeduponwitheveryfavourbytheauthorities。

ItmustberememberedalsothattheaccommodationprovidedatOropaismuchbetterthanwhatthepeopleare，forthemostpart，accustomedtointheirownhomes，andthebedsaresofter，moreoftenbeatenup，andcleanerthanthosetheyhaveleftbehindthem。

Besides，theyhavesheets——andbeautifullycleansheets。ThosewhoknowthesortofplaceinwhichanItalianpeasantiscommonlycontenttosleep，willunderstandhowmuchhemustenjoyareallycleanandcomfortablebed，especiallywhenhehasnotgottopayforit。Sleep，inthecircumstancesofcomfortwhichmostreaderswillbeaccustomedto，isamoreexpensivethingthaniscommonlysupposed。IfwesleepeighthoursinaLondonhotelweshallhavetopayfrom4d。to6d。anhour，orfrom1d。to1。5d。foreveryfifteenminuteswelieinbed；norisitreasonabletobelievethatthechargeisexcessive，whenweconsiderthevastamountofcompetitionwhichexists。Thereismanyamantheexpensesofwhosedailymeat，drink，andclothingarelessthanwhatanaccountantwouldshowuswe，manyofus，layoutnightlyuponoursleep。Thecostofreallycomfortablesleep-necessariescannot，ofcourse，benearlysogreatatOropaasinaLondonhotel，buttheyareenoughtoputthembeyondthereachofthepeasantunderordinarycircumstances，andherelishesthemallthemorewhenhecangetthem。

Butwhy，itmaybeasked，shouldthepeasanthavethesethingsifhecannotaffordtopayforthem；andwhyshouldhenotpayforthemifhecanaffordtodoso？IfsuchplacesasOropawerecommon，wouldnotlazyvagabondsspendtheirlivesingoingtheroundsofthem，&c。，&c。？DoubtlessifthereweremanyOropas，theywoulddomoreharmthangood，buttherearesomethingswhichanswerperfectlywellasraritiesoronasmallscale，outofwhichallthevirtuewoulddepartiftheywerecommonoronalargerone；

andcertainlytheimpressionleftuponourmindsbyOropawasthatitseffectswereexcellent。

Grantedthesoundruletobethatamanshouldpayforwhathehas，orgowithoutit；inpractice，however，itisfoundimpossibletocarrythisruleoutstrictly。WhydoesthenationgiveA。B。，forinstance，andallcomersalarge，comfortable，well-ventilated，warmroomtositin，withchair，table，reading-desk，&c。，allmorecommodiousthanwhathemayhaveathome，withoutmakinghimpayasixpenceforitdirectlyfromyear"sendtoyear"send？Thethreeorninedays"visittoOropaisatrifleincomparisonwithwhatwecanallofusobtaininLondonifwecareaboutitenoughtotakeaverysmallamountoftrouble。True，onecannotsleepinthereading-roomoftheBritishMuseum——notallnight，atleast——butbydayonecanmakeahomeofitforyearstogetherexceptduringcleaningtimes，andthenitishardifonecannotgetintotheNationalGalleryorSouthKensington，andbewarm，quiet，andentertainedwithoutpayingforit。

Itwillbesaidthatitisforthenationalinterestthatpeopleshouldhaveaccesstotreasuriesofartorknowledge，andthereforeitisworththenation"swhiletopayforplacingthemeansofdoingsoattheirdisposal；granted，butisnotagoodbedoneofthegreatendsofknowledge，wheretoitmustwork，ifitistobeaccountedknowledgeatall？andisitnotworthanation"swhilethatherchildrenshouldnowandagainhavepracticalexperienceofahigherstateofthingsthantheonetheyareaccustomedto，andafewdays"restandchangeofsceneandair，eventhoughshemayfromtimetotimehavetopaysomethinginordertoenablethemtodoso？Therecanbefewbookswhichdoanaveragely-educatedEnglishmansomuchgood，astheglimpseofcomfortwhichhegetsbysleepinginagoodbedinawell-appointedroomdoestoanItalianpeasant；suchaglimpsegiveshimanideaofhigherpotentialitiesinconnectionwithhimself，andnerveshimtoexertionswhichhewouldnototherwisemake。Onthewhole，therefore，weconcludedthatiftheBritishMuseumreading-roomwasingoodeconomy，Oropawassoalso；atanyrate，itseemedtobemakingalargenumberofverynicepeoplequietlyhappy——anditishardtosaymorethanthisinfavourofanyplaceorinstitution。

Theideaofanysuddenchangeisasrepulsivetousasitwillbetothegreaternumberofmyreaders；butifaskedwhetherwethoughtourEnglishuniversitieswoulddomostgoodintheirpresentconditionasplacesofso-callededucation，oriftheywereturnedintoOropas，andalltheeducationalpartofthestorytotallysuppressed，weinclinedtothinktheywouldbemorepopularandmoreusefulinthislattercapacity。WethoughtalsothatOxfordandCambridgewerejusttheplaces，andcontainedalltheappliancesandendowmentsalmostreadymadeforconstitutingtwosplendidandtrulyimperialcitiesofrecreation——universitiesindeedaswellasinname。Nevertheless，weshouldnotventuretoproposeanyfurtheractualreformduringthepresentgenerationthantocarrytheprinciplewhichisalreadyadmittedasregardstheM。A。degreeatriflefurther，andtomaketheB。A。degreeamerematteroflapseoftimeandfees——leavingtheLittleGo，andwhatevercorrespondstoitatOxford，asthefinalexamination。

Thiswouldbeenoughforthepresent。

Thereisanothersanctuaryaboutthreehours"walkoverthemountainbehindOropa，atAndorno，anddedicatedtoSt。John。Wewerepreventedbytheweatherfromvisitingit，butunderstandthatitsobjectsaremuchthesameasthoseoftheinstitutionIhavejustdescribed。IwillnowproceedtothethirdsanctuaryforwhichtheneighbourhoodofBiellaisrenowned。

CHAPTERXVI——GragliaThesanctuaryofGragliaisreachedinabouttwohoursfromBiella。

Therearedailydiligences。ItisnotsocelebratedasthatofOropa，nordoesitstandsohighabovethelevelofthesea，butitisaremarkableplaceandwelldeservesavisit。Therestaurantisperfect——thebest，indeed，thatIeversawinNorthItaly，or，I

think，anywhereelse。Ihadoccasiontogointothekitchen，andcouldnotseehowanythingcouldbeatitforthemostabsolutecleanlinessandorder。CertainlyIneverdinedbetterthanatthesanctuaryofGraglia；andonedinesallthemorepleasantlyfordoingsoonalovelyterraceshadedbytrellisedcreepers，andoverlookingLombardy。

IfindfromasmallhandbookbySignorGiuseppeMuratori，thatthepresentinstitution，likethatofS。Michele，andalmostallthingselsethatachievesuccess，wasfoundedupontheworkofapredecessor，andbecamegreatnotinone，butinseveralgenerations。ThesitewasalreadyveneratedonaccountofachapelinhonouroftheVergineaddoloratawhichhadexistedherefromveryearlytimes。AcertainNicolaoVelotti，abouttheyear1616，formedthedesignofreproducingMountCalvaryonthisspot，andoferectingperhapsahundredchapelswithterra-cottafiguresinthem。ThefamousValsesiansculptor，Tabachetti，andhispupils，thebrothersGiovanniandAntonio(commonlycalled"Tanzio")，D"EnricoofRivaintheValSesia，allofwhomhadrecentlybeenworkingatthesanctuaryofVarallo，wereinvitedtoGraglia，andlateron，anothereminentnativeoftheValSesia，PietroGiuseppeMartello。Theseartistsappeartohavedoneagooddealofworkhere，ofwhichnothingnowremainsvisibletothepublic，thoughitispossiblethatinthechapelofS。Carloandtheclosedchapelsonthewaytoit，theremaybesomestatueslyingneglectedwhichI

knownothingabout。Iwastoldofnosuchwork，butwhenIwasatGragliaIdidnotknowthattheabove-namedgreatmenhadeverworkedthere，andmadenoinquiries。Itisquitepossiblethatalltheworktheydidherehasnotperished。

ThemeansatthedisposalofthepeopleofGragliawereinsufficientfortheendtheyhadinview，butsubscriptionscameinfreelyfromotherquarters。Amongthevaluablerights，liberties，privileges，andimmunitiesthatwereconferredupontheinstitution，wasonewhichinitselfwasasourceofunfailingandconsiderablerevenue，namely，therightofsettingarobberfreeonceineveryyear；also，theauthoritiestherewereallowedtosellallkindsofwineandeatables(robemangiative)withoutpayingdutyuponthem。AsfarasIcanunderstand，themainworkofVelotti"sisthechapelofS。Carlo，onthetopofahillsomefewhundredfeetabovethepresentestablishment。Igiveasketchofthischapelhere，butwasnotabletoincludethesmallerchapelswhichleaduptoit。

Afewyearslater，oneNicolaoGaronobuiltasmalloratoryatCampra，whichisnearertoBiellathanGragliais。HededicatedittoS。MariadellaNeve——toSt。MaryoftheSnow。ThisbecamemorefrequentedthanGragliaitself，andthefeastoftheVirginonthe5thAugustwasexceedinglypopular。SignorMuratorisaysofit:-

"ThisisthepopularfeastofGraglia，andIcanrememberhowbutafewyearssinceitretainedonasmallscaleallthefeaturesofthesacrecampestrioftheMiddleAges。Forsometimepast，however，thestrictercustomswhichhavebeenintroducedherenolessthaninotherPiedmontesevillageshaverobbedthisfeast(ashowmanymorepopularfeastshasitnotalsorobbed？)ofthatoriginalandspontaneouscharacterinwhichajovialheartinessandadiffusiveinterchangeoftheaffectionscamewellingforthfromallabundantly。Inspiteofall，however，andnotwithstandingitsdecline，thefeastoftheMadonnaisevennowoneofthoseraregatherings——theonlyone，perhaps，intheneighbourhoodofBiella——

towhichthepiousChristianandthecuriousidlerarealikeattracted，andwheretheywillalikefindappropriateamusement。"

{25}

HowMiltonic，nottosayHandelian，isthisattitudetowardsthePagantendencieswhich，itisclear，predominatedatthefestaofSt。MaryoftheSnow。Inolddaysafeastwasmeanttobeatimeofactualmerriment——apraising"withmirth，highcheer，andwine。"

{26}Miltonfeltthisalittle，andHandelmuch。Tothemanopportunityforalittlepaganismislikethescratchingofamousetotheprincesswhohadbeenbornacat。Offtheygoafterit——

moreespeciallyHandel——undersomedecentpretextnodoubt，butasfast，nevertheless，astheirartcancarrythem。AsforHandel，hehadnotonlyasympathyforpaganism，butfortheshadesandgradationsofpaganism。What，forexample，canbeacompletercontrastthanbetweenthepolishedandrefinedRomanpaganisminTheodora，{27}therusticpaganismof"Bidthemaidstheyouthsprovoke"inHercules，themagician"sorsorcerer"spaganismofthebluefurnacein"Chemoshnomore，"{28}ortheDagonchorusesinSamson——tosaynothingofascoreofotherexamplesthatmightbeeasilyadduced？YetwhocandoubtthesincerityandevenfervourofeitherMilton"sorHandel"sreligiousconvictions？Theattitudeassumedbythesemen，andbythebetterclassofRomanists，seemstohavebecomeimpossibletoProtestantssincethetimeofDr。

Arnold。

IoncesawachurchdedicatedtoSt。Francis。Outsideit，overthemaindoor，therewasafrescoofthesaintreceivingthestigmata；

hiseyeswereupturnedinafineecstasytotheilluminatedspotintheheavenswhencethecausesofthestigmatawerecoming。Thechurchwasinsured，andthemanwhohadaffixedtheplateoftheinsuranceofficehadputitattheprecisespotintheskytowhichSt。Francis"seyeswereturned，sothattheplateappearedtobethemaincauseofhisecstasy。Whocared？Noone；untilacarpingEnglishmancametotheplace，andthoughtitincumbentuponhimtobescandalised，ortopretendtobeso；onthistheauthoritiesweremadeveryuncomfortable，andchangedthepositionoftheplate。GrantedthattheEnglishmanwasright；granted，infact，thatwearemorelogical；thisamountstosayingthatwearemorerickety，andmustwalkmoresupportedbycramp-irons。Allthe"earnestness，"and"intenseness，"and"aestheticism，"and"culture"

(fortheyareintheendone)ofthepresentday，arejustsomanyattemptstoconcealweakness。

Buttoreturn。ThechurchofSt。MaryoftheSnowatCamprawasincorporatedintotheGragliainstitutionin1628。Therewasoriginallynoconnectionbetweenthetwo，anditwasnotlongbeforethelaterchurchbecamemorepopularthantheearlier，insomuchthattheworkatGragliawasallowedtofalloutofrepair。OnthedeathofVelottitheschemelanguished，andbyandby，insteadofbuildingmorechapels，itwasdecidedthatitwouldbeenoughtokeepinrepairthosethatwerealreadybuilt。These，asIhavesaid，arethechapelsofS。Carlo，andthesmalloneswhicharenowseenuponthewayuptoit，buttheyareallinasemi-ruinousstate。