Adventures and Letters

第7章

amwritingitjustafterfinishingmycableandhavingspentthemorningonmytoesinthechapel。Iwillfeelbettertomorrow。Anyway，itisdoneandIamglad，asitwasthesightofthecentury，andIwasinit，andnowIcanspendmygoodtimeandmoneyingayParee。Lovetoall。

DICK。

FromMoscowRichardwentdirecttoBudaPest，wherehewroteanarticleontheHungarianMillennial。

BUDAPEST

CHAS:May8th，1896。

IhavejustreturnedfromtheprocessionoftheHungarianNobles。ItwasevenmorebeautifulandmoreinterestingthantheCzar"sentrythanwhichIwouldnothavebelievedanythingcouldhavebeenmoreimpressive——Butthefirstwasmilitary，exceptforthecarriages，whichwerelikesomethingoutoffairyland——to-day，thecostumeswerealldifferentandmediaeval，someninehundredyearsoldandnonenearerthanthe15thCentury。Themisenscenewasalsomuchbetter。

Budaisaclean，oldburgh，withyellowhousesrisingonasteepgreenhill，redroofsandtowersanddomes，showingoutofthetrees——Itisveryhighbutverysteepandtheprocessionwoundinandoutlikeafairypicture——Isatonthetopofthehill，lookingdownittotheDanube，whichseparatesBudafromPest——TheEmperorsatacrossthesquareabout75yardsfromourtribuneinthebalconyofhispalace。

WesatinthePalaceyardandtheprocessionpassedandturnedinfrontofus——Therewereabout1，500nobles，eachdressedtosuithimself，incostumesthathaddescendedforgenerations——ofbrocade，silk，fur，andgoldandsilvercloth——Eachcostumeaveraged，withthetrappingsofthehorse，5，000dollars。Somecost$1，000，some$15，000。Someworecompletesuitsofchainarmor，withbearskinsandgreatblackeaglefeathersontheirspearsjustastheywerewhentheyinvadedRome——Othersworegoldchainarmorandleopardorwolfskinsandtheirhorseswerestuddedwithturquoisesandtrappingsofgoldandsilverandsmotheredinsilvercoins——Itwouldhavebeenridiculousiftheyhadnotbeentherealthingineverydetailandifyouhadnotknownhowterriblyinearnestthemenwere。Thereisnoothercountryintheworldwheremenchangefromthemostblaseandcorrectofbeings，tofairyprincesintightsandfeathersandjewelledbeltsandsatincoats——Theywereanhourinpassingandeachoneseemedmorebeautifulthantheothers——IamverygladIcamealthoughIwasdisappointedatmissingtheaccidentatMoscow。ItmusthavebeenmoreterriblethanJohnstown。Ifoundthe——squiteconvertedintothemostawfulsnobsbutthepeopletheyworshipareassimpleandwellbredasallgentlepeopleareandIhavehadthemostdelightfultimewiththem。ItissosmallandquietafterMoscow，andinsteadofbeinglostinanavalancheofembassiesandsuitesandmissions，Ihaveadistinctpersonality，as"theAmerican，"whichIsharewith"the"FrenchmanandfourEnglishmen。Wearetheonlysixstrangersandtheygiveustherunofallthatisgoingon——Atnightwedineatthemostremarkableclubintheworld，ontheborderofthePark，wherethebestofalltheGypseymusiciansplaysforus——Themusicisaloneworthhavingcometohear，andthedearsoulswhoplayit，havingbeentoldthatIlikeitfollowmeallaroundtheterraceandsitdownthreefeetawayandfixtheireyesonyou，andthenproceedtopullyournervesandheartoutofyouforanhouratatime——Onenightamanheredippedatenthousandfrancnoteinhischampagneandpasteditontheleader"sviolinandbowedhisthanks，andtheleaderbowedinreturnandthenextmorningsenthimthenotebackinanenvelope，sayingthatthecomplimentwasworthmorethanthemoney——Theleader"snameisBercheyandtheHungarianshaveneverallowedhimtoleavethecountryforfearhewouldnotbeallowedtocomeback——Heisafat，halfdrunkenlookingman，withhiseyesfulloftearshalfthetimeheplays。Helooksjustlikeasetterdogandheissoterriblyinearnestthatwhenhefixesmewithhiseyesandplaysatme，thecourtladiesallgetupandmovetheirchairsoutofhiswayjustasthoughhewereasomnambulist——

IleavehereWednesdayandreachParisFridayMORNINGtheeleventh——YoumusttrytomeetmeattheCafedelaPaixathalfpastnine——Waitinthecornerroomifyoudon"twishtositoutsideandassoonasIgetwashedIwilljoinyouforcoffee。Itwillbefinetoseeyouagainandtobedonewithjumpingaboutfromhoteltohotelandtobeabletoreadthesignsandtoknowhowtoaskforfood。Russian，GermanandHungarianhavemadeFrenchseemlikemymothertongue——

DICK。

CHAPTERX

CAMPAIGNINGINCUBAANDGREECE

InDecember，1896，RichardandFredericRemington，theartist，werecommissionedbytheNewYorkJournaltovisitCubawhichwasthenatwarwithSpain。ItwastheirintentiontogofromKeyWestintheVamoose，averyfastbutfrailsteam-launch，andtomakealandingatsomeuninhabitedpointontheCubancoast。Afterthistheirplansseemtohavebeentotrusttoluckandthekindlinessoftherevolutionists。

AfterwaitingforsometimeatKeyWestforfavorableweather，theyatlaststartedoutonadarknighttomakethecrossing。

AfewhoursaftertheVamoosehadleftKeyWestaheavystormarose——apparentlymuchtooviolentfortheslightlybuiltlaunch。ThecrewstruckandthecaptainfinallyrefusedtogoontoCubaandputbacktoKeyWest。ShortlyafterthisRemingtonandmybrotherreachedHavanabyamoresimpleandostentatiousroute。Thiswasmybrother"sfirsteffortasawarcorrespondent，andIpresumeitwasthisfactandtheveryindefinitenessoftheoriginalplanthatcausedhismotherandfathersomuchuneasiness。And，indeed，itdidproveeventuallyahazardousexploit。

waytoKeyWest。

December19，1896。

DEARMOTHER:

Ihopeyouwon"tbecrosswithmeforgoingoffandnotlettingyouknow，butIthoughtitwasbettertodoitthatwayastherewassuchdelayinourgettingstarted。IamgoingtoCubabywayofKeyWestwithFredericRemingtonandMichaelson，acorrespondentwhohasbeenthereforsixmonths。WearetobetakenbytheVamoosethefasteststeamyachtmadetoSantaClaraprovincewheretheCubanswillmeetusandtakeustoGomez。Wewillstayamonthwithhim，theyachtcallingforcopyandsketchesonceaweek，andfinallyforusinamonth。IgetallmyexpensesandTheJournalpaysme$3，000forthemonth"swork。TheHarper"sMagazinealsotakesastoryatsixhundreddollarsandRussellwillreprintRemington"ssketchesandmystoryinbookform，soIshallprobablyclear$4，000inthenextmonthorsixweeks。IwasaweekingettinginformationonthesubjectsoIknowallaboutitfromthemenwhohavejustbeenthereandIwantyoutopayattentiontowhatItellyoutheytoldmeandnottolistentoanystrayvisitorwhocomesinforteaandtalkswithoutanytactorknowledge。Thereisnodangerinthetripexcepttheproblemofgettingthereandgettingawayagain，andthatisnowremovedbyTheJournal"syacht。Iwouldhavegoneearlierhadanyoftheperiodicalsthataskedmetogoshownmeanywaytogetthere——THEREIS

NOFEVERTHISTIMEOFYEARandasyouknowfevernevertouchesme。ItgotalltheothersinCentralAmericaandneverworriedmeatall。Thereisnodangerofgettingshot，astheprovinceintowhichwego，theSantaClaraprovince，isownedandpopulatedandpatrolledbytheCubans。ItisnomoreSpanishthanNewJerseyandtheSpaniardscannotgetinthere。WehavethestrongestpossiblelettersfromtheJunta，andIhavefromLamont，BayardandOlneyandcredentialsineverylanguage。WewillsitaroundtheGomezcampandsendmessengersbacktothecoast。ItisathreedaystripandasGomezmaybemovingfromplacetoplaceyoumaynothearfromusforamonthandwemaynothearfromyoubutrememberitwasamuchlongertimethanthatbeforeyouheardfrommewhenIwenttoHonduras。AlsokeepinmindthatIamgoingasacorrespondentonlyandmustkeepoutofthewayoffightingandthatImeantodoso，asChamberlainsayswewantdescriptivestoriesnotbravedeeds——MajorFlintwhohasarrangedthetripforuswasdowntherewithMaceoasacorrespondent。Hesawsixfightsandnevershotoffhisgunoncebecauseashesaiditwasnothisbusinesstokillpeopleandhehaspersuadedmethatheisright，soIwon"tdoanythingbutlookon——IhaveboughtatTheJournal"sexpenseafiftydollarfieldglasswhichisanewinventionandthebestmade。IhavemarkeditsothatyoucanseeamanfivemilesoffandassoonasIseehimImeantobegintorideorruntheotherway——nooneloveshimselfmorethanIdosoyouleavemetotakecareofmyself。IwishIcouldgiveyouanyideaofthecontemptthefourreturnedcorrespondentswhotalkedtome，havefortheSpaniards。Theyhaveseenthemshoot2，500roundswithouthittingmenat200yardsandtheyrunawayiftheenemybeginsonthemfirst。However，youtrusttoRichard——WehaveafineescortarrangedforusandMichaelsonspeaksSpanishperfectlyandhasbeensixmonthsscoutingoverthecountry。

DICK。

KEYWest，December26，1896。

DEARFAMILY:

Igotyourletterslatelastnightandtheymademeprettysolemn。ItisanawfullysolemnthingtohavepeoplecareforyoulikethatandtocareforthemasI

do。Ican"ttellyouhowmuchIloveyou。Youdon"tknowhowmuchthepainofworryingyouforamonthhasmeanttome，butIhavetalkeditalloutwithmyself，andleftittoGodandI

amsureIamdoingright。AsMrs。Crownsaid，"There"sawholechurchfuluphereprayingforyou，"andIguessthatwillpullmethrough。Ofcourse，dear，dearMotherthoughtshewascrosswithme。Shecouldnotbecrosswithme，andherlettertoldmehowmuchshecared，thatwasall，andmademebeextracareful。ButIneednotpromiseyoutobecareful。YouhaveanideaIamawild，filibustering，hot-headedyoungman。Iamnot。Igavetheguidestounderstandtheirdutywastokeepusoutofdangerifwehadtowalkmilestoavoidit。Wearemenofpeace，goingin，asrealestateagentsandcoffee-plantersanddrummersaregoinginoneverysteamer，toattendtoourespecialworkandgetoutagainquick。IhavejustasstrongaprejudiceagainstkillingamanasIhaveagainsthiskillingme。

Lotsandlotsoflove。Don"tgetscaredifyoudon"thearforamonth，althoughwewilltrytogetourstoriesbackonceaweek，butyouknowweareattheconvenienceoftheCubanswhowillpocketourdespatchesandmoneyandnottakethelongtripback。ThankdearDadforhisletterfullofgoodadvice。

Itwasexcellent。RemingtonandMichelsonaregoodmenandI

likethemimmensely。Alreadywearefirmfriends。

Love，KEYWEST——January1，1897。

DEARMOTHER:

Asyouwillknowbymytelegramweareeitheroffonasafeseagoingboatorwaitingforone。ThereisnoturningbackfromhereandtheonlyreasonIthoughtofdoingsowastheknowledgeofthewayyouwouldsufferandworry。IargueditoutthatitwasselfishinmetoweighmygettinglaughedatandparagraphedasthewarcorrespondentthatalwaysTurnedBackagainstamonthofuneasinessforyou，butlaterIsawIcouldnotdoitmuchasIloveyoufortheelementofdangertomeisnon-existent；itismerelyanexcitingadventureandyouwillhavetobelievemeandnotworrybutbeaSpartanmother。I

wouldnotcountbeinglaughedatandthelossofmyownselfrespectifIreallythoughttherewasgreatdanger，butIdonot。

YouwillnotlosemeandifIgonowIcansitstillnexttimeandsay"Ihavedonebetterthingsthanthat。"IfIhadnotgoneitwouldhavemeantthatIwouldhavehadtohavedonejustthatmuchharderastuntnexttimetomakepeopleforgetthatIhadfailedinthisone。NowdocheerupandbelieveintheluckofRichardHardingDavisandtheBritishArmy。WehavecarteblanchefromTheJournaltobuyorleaseanyboatonthecoastandIrockedthemfor$1000inadvancepaymentbecauseofthedelayovertheVamoose。

IamsohappyatthinkingIamgoing，IcouldnothavefacedanyonehadInot，althoughwehadnothingtodowiththefailure，wetriedtocrossfairlyinthedamntubanditwashercaptainwhoputback。Ilayoutonthedeckandcriedwhenherefusedtogoahead，wehadwaitedsolong。TheCubansandRemingtonandMichelsonhadputonalltheirridingthingsbutfortunatelyIhadnotandsowassparedthathumiliation。WhatIdon"tknowabouttheFineArtofFilibusteringnowisunnecessary。IfindmanyfriendsofmyCaptainBoyntonor"Capt。Burke。"TonighttheofficersoftheRaleighgivemeagranddinneratwhichIwearadresssuitandmakespeeches——theyarethebestchapsIevermetintheNavy。

LotsofloveandbestwishestoDadandtoNoraforahappy，happyNewYear。Youknowmeandyouknowmyconsciencebutitwouldnotletmegobackinordertosaveyouanxietysoyouwon"tthinkmeselfish。Godblessyou。

DICK。

KEYWEST，January2nd，1897。

DEARFAMILY:

IhavelearnedherethatthefirstqualityneededtomakeagreatfilibusterisPatience，itisnotcourage，orresourcesoraknowledgeoftheCubanCoastline，itispatience。

Anybodycanrunaboatintoadarkbayouanddumpriflesonthebeachandscurryawaytoseaagainbutonlyheroescansitforamonthonahotelporchorattheendofawharf，andwait。ThatisallwedoandthatismylifeatKeyWest。I

getupandhalfdressandtakeaplungeinthebayandthendressfullyandhaveagreasybreakfastandthenlightahugeKeyWestcigar，pricethreecentsandsitonthehotelporchwithmyfeetonarail——Nothinghappensafterthatexceptgettingone"sbootspolishedasthetwoindustriesofthisplaceareblackingbootsanddrivingcabs。Ihavetwoboystoblackmineatthesametimeeverymorningandpaytheonewhodoeshisthebetterofthetwo——Itgenerallyendsinafightsothataffordsdiversion——Thenamancomesalong，anyman，andsays，"Remmington"slookingforyou"andIgetupandlookforRemington。ThereisonlyatriangleofstreetswhereonecanfindhimandIcallat"Josh"Curry"sfirstandthenatPendleton"sNewsStoreandreadallthebacknumbersofthePoliceGazetteforthehundredthtimeandthencallhereattheCustomHouseandthenlookinattheCableoffice，whereMichaelsonlivessendingtelegramsaboutanythingornothingandthatbringsmebacktothehotelporchagain，whereIhavemybootsshinedoncemoreandthengointomid-daydinner。InthemeanwhileRemingtonislookingformeahundredyardsintherear。Hegenerallygetsto"Josh"s"asIleavetheCustomHouse——IntheafternoonIstudySpanishoutofatextbookandatthreetakeabicycleride，atfiveI

callatthegarrisontotaketeawiththedoctorandhiswife，whoissweeterthanangel"severgettobewithaminiatureangelofababycalledMartha。Iwaituntilretreatissoundedandthegunisfiredatsunsetandhavingcommentedunfavorablyonthewaythesoldierslettheflagdroponthegrassinsteadofcatchingitonthearmsasabluejacketdoes，Irideofftothebayforanotherbath——ThenItakethelaunchtotheRaleighanddinewiththeofficersandrejoiceinthecleanfreshpaintandbrassanddecksandthelightsandblackplacesofagreatshipofwar，thanwhichnothingismoresplendid。Wesitonthequarter-deckandsmokeandplaytheguitarandIgohomeagain，intimeforbed。Ivarythisprogrammeoccasionallybyspendingthemorningontheendofawharfwatchinganothermanfishandreadingoldnovelsandthe"LivesofCaptainWalker"and"CaptainFryoftheVirginius，"

twogreatbooksfromeachofwhichIamgoingtowriteashortstoryliketheoneoftheAlamooroftheJamesonRaid——ThelifeofWalkerIfoundontheRaleighandthelifeofCaptainFrywithalltheoldwoodcutsandthenewspapercommentsofthetimeatabookstorehere。Idon"tknowwhenweshallgetawaybutitisnousekickingaboutit，Michaelsonisdoingallhecanandthenewtugwillbealonginaweekanyway。IshallbesogladtogettoCubathatIwilldancewithglee。

DICK。

MATANZAS，January15th，1897。

DEARMOTHER:

IsentyouanotebyRemingtonwhichhewillmailintheStates——FromhereIgotoSaguaLaGrande。Itisonthenortherncoast。IthinkfromthereIshallcrossovertoCienfuegosontheSoutherncoastandthenifIcancatchasteamergotoSantiagotoseemyoldfriends，attheJuraquaminesandMacWilliams"oreroadand"thePalms"——EverywhereI

amtreatedwellonaccountofWeyler"sorderandIamlearningagreatdealandtalkingverylittle，mySpanishbeingbad。

Thereiswarhereandnomistakeandallthepeopleinthefieldshavebeenorderedintothefortifiedtownswheretheyarestarvinganddyingofdisease。YesterdayIsawthehousesofthesepeopleburningonbothsidesofthetrack——Theygavesheltertotheinsurgentsandsoverysoontheyfoundtheirhousesgone。

IamsorelievedatgettingoldRemingtontogoasthoughIhadwon$5000。Hewasasplendidfellowbutaperfectkidandhadtobehumoredandpettedallthetime。I

shallifIhaveluckbethroughwiththisinafewweeksbutithashadsuchasetbackatthestartthatIamafraiditcannevermakeabookandIdoubtifIcanwriteadecentarticleeven。IamsoanxiousnottokeepyouworryinganylongerthanisnecessaryandsoIamhurryingalongtakingonlyacarwindowviewofthings。AddressmecareofConsulGeneralLee，Havanaandconfineyourremarkstowhatisgoingonathome。Iknowwhatisgoingonhere。Idon"tbelievehalfIhearbutIambeingslowlyconverted。RemingtonismoreexcitablethanIam，sodon"tmisunderstandifhestartsinviolently。Iamgettingdetailsandverifyingthings。HeisrightonabigscalebuteveryonehasliedsoaboutthisislandthatIdonotwanttosayanythingIdonotbelieveistrue。

ThisisabeautifullittlecityandafterJaruco，whereweslepttwodaysago，itisParis。Therewesleptoffthebarnyardandcowsandchickenswalkedalloverthefloorandfleasalloverus。ItwaslikeHondurasonlyfilthier。SpeakingofParis，telltheKidIexpecttogoovertohimsoonafterIreturntoNewYork。

oflove。

DICK。

CARDENAS——NorthCoastofCuba。

January16th，1897。

DEARMOTHER:

Itisveryfunnynotknowingwhatsortofaplaceyouaretosleepinnextandtakingthingsoutofagrabbag，asitwere——InEuropeyoucanalwaysguesswhatthewellknowntownswillgiveyouforyouhaveaguidebook，buthereitisallluck。Matanzaswasaprettycitybutthepeoplewereawful，thehotelwasSpanishandtheproprietorinsolent，thoughIwasspendingmoreofWillieHearst"smoneythanalloftheofficersspendinaweek，theConsulcouldnottalkEnglishorSpanish，hesaidhehadn"tcomethere"togotoschooltonoSpaniard"andhegloriedinthefacthehadbeentherethreeyearswithoutknowingawordofthelanguage。Hisvice-Consulwasworseandeverythingwentwronggenerally。

EveryoneImetwasanAlarmistandthatispoliteforliar。

TheyaskedRemingtonifhewasthemanwhomanufacturedtheriflesandgaveustheIowaDemocrattoread。TonightIreachedhereafterasixhoursridethroughblazingfieldsofsugarcaneandstoppedonmywaytothehoteltoasktheConsulwhenthenextboatwenttoSaqualaGrande——IhadnoletterofintroductiontohimasIhadtotheMatanzasconsul，butassoonashesawmycardhegotoutofhischairandshookhandsagainandwasasheartyandwellbredanddelightfulasCharleyhimselfandunlikeChashedidnotaskme14francsforlookingonhim。

Heisoutnowchasingaroundtogetmeatrainforto-morrow。

ButIwon"tgoto-morrow。Myhotellooksontheplazaandtheproprietorandthewholesuiteofattendantsaremyslaves。Itisjustasdifferentascanbe。Myinterpreterdoesit，hecallshimselfMYVALET，althoughIpointouttohimthattwoshirtsandtwelvecollarsdonotconstituteawardrobeevenwitharubbercoatthrownin。ButhelikestoplayatmybeingadistinguishedstrangerandIcan"tsayIobject。OnlywhenyourememberthewayIwasinvitedtoseeCubaandexpectedtoseeit，andnowthewayIamseeingitfromcarwindowswithAVALET。Whatwouldthenewschoolofyellowkidjournalistssayiftheyknewthat。ForthefirsttimeonthistripIhavewishedyouwerebothwithme，thatwastonight。Ineverseeanythingreallybeautifulbutthatitinstantlymakesmefeelselfishandwishyoucouldseeittoo。

IthashappenedagainandagainandtonightIwishyoucouldbeherewithmeonthisbalcony。ThetownrunsdownaslopetothebayandinthemiddleofitisthePlazawithmeonthebalconywhichletsoutofmysleepingroom——"theroom"sotheproprietortellsme，"reservedonlyfortheCapitainGeneral。"

ItisjustlikethedescriptioninthatremarkablenovelofminewhereClayandAlicesitonthebalconyoftherestaurant。

IhavethemoonlightandtheCathedralwiththeopendoorsandthebronzestatueinthemiddleandtheroyalpalmsmovinginthebreezestraightfromtheseaandthepeoplewalkingaroundtheplazabelow。IfitwasinanywayasbeautifulasthisClayandAlicewouldhaveendedthenovelthatnight。

Igotagrandlotoflettersto-daywhichOtto，myinterpreterbroughtbackfromHavanaafterhavingconductedRemingtonthereinsafety。Imustsayyouarewritingverycheerfullynow，butIdon"twonderyouworriedatfirstbutnowthatIamacommercialtravellerwithanorderfromWeylerwhichdoeseverythingwhenIfinditnecessary，youreallymustnotworryanymorebutjustletmecontinueonmyuneventfuljourneyandthencomehome。Ishallhavebeengonesolongandmyfriends，judgingfromRussellandDanaandIrene"sletters，willbesogladtoseeme，thattheywillhaveforgottenI

wentouttodootherthingsthancoastaroundintrains。Asamatteroffactthisisaterriblybigproblemandmostdifficulttogetthetruthof，Ifindmyselfgrowingtobetheoppositeofthealarmist，whateverthatis，althoughyouwouldthinkthepicturesqueanddramaticandexcitingthingwouldbetheoneIwouldratherbelievebecauseIwanttobelieveit，butIfindthatthatisnotso，IseeagreatdealonbothsidesandIdonotbelievehalfIamtold。Asweusedtosayatcollege，"itisagainsthistory，"anditisagainsthistoryformentoactasIamtoldtheyareactinghere——Theyshowmethepueblohuddledtogetheraroundthefortifiedtowns，livinginpalmhutsbutIknowthattheyhavealwayslivedinpalmhuts，theyellowkidreportersdon"tknowthatorconsiderit，butsendoffwordthattheconditionofthepeopleisterrible，thattheyhaveonlyleavestocoverthem，anditsoundsverybadly。ThatisaninstanceofwhatImean。Inabigwaythereisnodoubtthattheprocessgoingonhereisoneofexterminationandruin。TwoyearsagotheamountofsugarshippedfromtheportofMatanzastotheU。S。wasvaluedat11

millionsayear。Thislastyearjustovershowsthatsugartotheamountof$800，000wassentout。In"94，154vesselstouchedatMatanzasontheirwaytoAmerica。In"95therewere80andin"96thereare16。Ialwaysimaginedthathousesweredestroyedduringawarbecausetheygotinthewayofcannonballsortheywereburnedbecausetheymightoffersheltertotheenemy，butheretheyaredestroyed，withthepurposeofmakingthewarhorribleandhurryinguptheend。Theinsurgentsbeganfirstbydestroyingthesugarmills，someofwhichwereworthmillionsofdollarsinmachinery，andnowtheSpaniardsareburningthehomesofthepeopleandherdingtheminaroundthetownstostarveouttheinsurgentsandtoleavethemwithoutshelterorplacestogoforfoodortohidethewounded。Soalldaylongwhereeveryoulookyouseegreatheavycolumnsofsmokerisingintothisbeautifulskyabovethemagnificentpalmsthemostnobleofallpalms，almostofalltrees——ItisthemostbeautifulcountryIhaveevervisited。IhadnorecollectionofhowbeautifulitwasorelseIhadnottheknowledgeofotherplaceswithwhichtocompareit。Nothingoutoftheimaginationcanapproachitinitsgreatwaterfallsandmossyrocksandgrandplainsandforestsofwhitepillarswithplumeswavingabovethem。Onlymanisvilehereanditiscrueltoseethewallsofthehouseswithblindeyes，withroofsgoneandgardensburned，everychurchbutonethatIhaveseenwasafortresswithhammocksswungfromthealtarsandrudebarricadesthrownuparoundthedoorways——IfthisiswarIamoftheopinionthatitisasenselesswickedinstitutionmadeforsoldiers，loversandcorrespondentsfordifferentreasons，andfornooneelseintheworldanditistooexpensivefortheotherstokeepitgoingtoentertainthesefewgentlemen——IhaveseenverylittleofityetandIprobablywon"tseemuchmore，butIhaveseenallIwant。

Remingtonhadhismindsatisfiedevensooner——butthenheisanalarmistandexaggeratesthings——Themenwhoweartheredbadgeofcourage，Idon"tfeelsorryfor，theyhavetheirrewardintheirbloodybandagesandthelittlecrossontheirtunicbutthoseyoumeetcomingbacksickanddyingwithfeveraretheonesthatmakefightingcontemptible——poorlittlefarmers，poorlittlechildrenwithnointerestinCubaorSpain"srighttoholdit，whohavebeensentouttodielikeantsbeforetheyhavelearnedtoholdamauser，andwhoaregoingbackagainwiththebeardsthathavegrowninthefieldhospitalsontheircheeksandtheireyeshollow，andtooweaktomoveorspeak。SixofthemdiedwhileIwasinJaroco，atownasbigasMarionandthathadbeentheaveragefortwomonths，thinkofthat，sixpeopledyinginMarioneverydaythroughJulyandAugust——Ididn"tstayinthattownanylongerthanthetraindid——WellIhavebeenwritingeditorialshereinsteadofcheeringyouupbutIguessI"maboutrightandwhenIseealittlemoreI"lltellitoveragaintoTheJournal——ItisnotasexcitingreadingasdeedsofdaringbyourspecialcorrespondentandIhaven"tchangedmynameorshavedmyeyebrowsordoneanythingtheothermenhavedonebutIbelieveI

amgettingnearthetruth。Theyhaveshutoffprovisionsgoingorcomingfromthetowns，theyhavehuddledhundredsofpeoplewhodonotknowwhatabathmeansaroundthesetowns，andthisisgoingtohappen——AssoonastherainsbegintheyellowfeverandsmallpoxwillsetinandallvesselsleavingCubanportswillbequarantinedandtheislandwillbeonegreatplaguespot。Theinsurgentswhoareintheopenfieldswillliveandthesoldierswilldiefortheirofficersknownothingofsanitationorcarenothing。ThelittleConsulhasjustbeenheretoseemeandwehavehadalongtalkandIgotbackathim。HetoldmehehadseentheFranco-GermanwarasacorrespondentofTheTribuneandIaskedhimifhehadevermetanothercorrespondentofTheTribuneatthattimeaGermanstudentnamedHanswhocabledthestoryofthebattleofGravelloteandwhoArchibaldForbessayswasthefirstcorrespondenttousethecable。TheConsulwholookslikeWilliamD。Howellswriggledaroundinhischairandsaid"IguessyoumeanmebutIwasnotaGermanstudent，IwasbornandraisedinPhiladelphiaandForbesgotmynamewrong，itisHance。"SothenIgotupandshookhandswithhiminmyturnandtoldhimIhadalwayswantedtomeetthatcorrespondentanddidnotexpecttodosoinCardenas，onthecoastofCuba。

Thankyouallforyourletters。IamgladyoulikedtheJamesonbook。IthoughtyouknewIwasaF。R。G。S。ItwasGeorgeCurzonproposedmeandasheisagoldmedallistoftheSocietyitwaseasygettingin。Lotsoflove。

DICK。

RichardreturnedtoNewYorkfromCubainFebruary，1897，butthefollowingmonthstartedforFlorencetopaymealong-promisedvisit。OnhiswayhestoppedforafewdaysinLondonandParis。

ABASSADEDESETATS-UNIS

59RueGalilee，Paris，April1st，1897。

DEARFAMILY:

Igotoverhereto-dayaftertheheaviestweatherIevertackledonthischannel。StephenCranecamewithme。IgavehimalunchonWednesday。AnthonyHope，McCarthy，HaroldFredericandBarriecame。SirEvelynWoodinsteadofcomingwasdetainedatthewarofficeandsentinsteadalanceSergeantonhorsebackwithahugeenvelopemarked"OnHerMajesty"sService，"whichwastobedeliveredintomyhands——

TheentireSavoywasupsetanditwasgenerallysupposedthatwarhadbeendeclaredandthatIwasbeingorderedtothefront——ThewholehotelhungoverusuntilIhadreceiptedforthepackageandthesoldierhadsalutedandclankedaway。I

gaveCranetheletterasasouvenir。IalsosawSeymourHicks"firstnightandrecognized15Americansongsinit。

TheLondonTimesofferedmethepositionofcorrespondentontheGreekfrontier。EveryoneinLondonthoughtitanenormouscomplimentandHaroldFrederic，Ralph，BallardSmithandtherestwereveryenvious。ItoldthemIcouldnotgo，butIwasgladtohavehadthecomplimentpaidme。Barriehasmadeoutascenarioofthe"Soldiers"fordramaticpurposesandhasaskedtheHaymarketmanagementtoconsiderit。So，thatIguessthatitmustbegood——

So，IalsoguessIhadbetterfinishit——IleaveforFlorencetonight。Iamhavingafine，finetimeandIamsogladyouareallwell。

Lotsoflove，DICK。

Ofthemanyhappydayswehavespenttogether，IdonotbelievetherewereanymuchmorehappythanthethreeweeksRichardremainedwithme。ItwashisfirstlongvisittoItalyandfromthedayofhisarrivalhelovedtheoldtownanditspeoplewhogavehimamostfriendlywelcome。HehadcomeatatimewhenFlorencewasatitsbest，itsnarrowquaintstreetsfilledwithsunshineandthrongedwithidlingnativesandthescurryingtouriststhatalwayscamewiththefirstdaysofspring。TheCascineandthepink-walledroadsoftheenvironswereablazewithwildrosesandhere，afterhisratherstrenuousexperienceinCuba，Richardgavehimselfuptolongdaysofhappyidleness。Togetherwetookvoyagesofdiscoverytomanyofthelittlewalledandforgottentownswherethetouristsseldomsetfoot。OnceweevenwanderedsofarasMonteCarlo，wheremybrothertriedveryhardtobreakthebankanddidnotsucceed。ButtheRichardHardingDavisluckdidnotfailhimcompletelyandIrememberIgreatlyenviedhimthehugepileofgoldandnotesthatrepresentedhiswinningsandwhichwedidourverybesttospendbeforeweleftthelandofthePrinceofMonaco。However，havinghadhisfirsttasteofwar，RichardfeltthathemustleavethepeaceandcontentofFlorencetoseehowtheGreeks，withwhomhehadmuchsympathy，werefaringwiththeirenemiestheTurks。Asithappened，thisexpeditionprovedbutashortinterruption，andinlessthanamonthhewasoncemorebackwithhisnew-foundfriendsinFlorence。

April28，1897

OntheWaytoPatrasonaSteamer。

DEARFAMILY:

IthasbeenaweeksinceIwroteyoulast，whenIsentyoutheInaugurationarticle。SincethenIhavebeenhavingthebesttimeIeverhadanyplaceALONE。Ihavehadmorefunwithacrowd，butneverhavebeensohappybymyself。WhatIwouldhavebeenhadItakensomeotherchapwithmeIcannotimagine。ButthepeopleofthispartofGreecehavebeensokindthatIcannotsayIhavebeenalone。Inevermetwithstrangersanywherewhoweresohospitable，soconfidingandpolite。Afterthatslaughter-yardandpestplaceofCuba，whichismuchmoreterribletomenowthanitwaswhenIwasthere，orbeforeIhadseenthatwarcanbeconductedlikeanyotherevilofcivilization，thisoperabouffewarfareislikeaduelbetweentwogentlemenintheBois。Cubaislikeaslave-holderbeatingaslave"sheadinwithawhip。Iamawarcorrespondentonlybyagreatstretchoftheimagination；

Iamapeacecorrespondentreally，andallthefightingIhaveseenwasbycannonatlongrange。(Iwasatlongrange，notthecannon。)IamdoingthiscampaigninapersonallyconductedsensewithnoregardtothePowersortotheLondonTimes。Ididsendthemanarticlecalled"ThePipingTimesofWar。"IftheydonotuseitIshallillustrateitwiththephotosIhavetakenandsellit，forfivetimesthesumtheywouldgive，totheHarperswhoareeverwithus。AsIoncesaidinanotedwork，"Greece，Mrs。Morris，restoresallyourlostillusions。"ForthelastweekIhavebeenbackinthedaysofConrad，theCorsair，and"Oh，MaidofAthens，ereWePart。"I

havebeenridingoverwind-swepthillsandmountainstoppedwithsnow，andwithsheepandgoatsandwildflowersofeverycolorspreadingforacres，andinalandwhereeverymandressesbychoicelikeagrandoperabrigand，andnotonlyforphotographicpurposes。Ihavebeenonthemoveallthetime，chasingintherearofarmiesthatturnbackassoonasI

approachandapologizefordisappointingmeofabattle，orridingtothesceneofabattlethatnevercomesoff，orhasteningtoabombardmentthatturnsouttobeanattackonanemptyfort。

Iliveonbrownbreadandcheeseandgoat"smilkandsleeplikealoginshepherds"huts。ItissobeautifulthatI

almostgrudgethenight。NoraandMothercouldtakethistripassafelyasaregimentandwouldseethingsoutoffairyland。

Andsuchadventures!LateinlifeIamatlasthavingadventuresandhonorsheapeduponme。Iwaselectedacaptainofabandofbrigandswhohadbeenwatchingamountainpassforamonth，andasitshowednosignsofrunningawayhadtakentodancingonthegreen。Icaughtthematthisinnocentpastimeandtheyallowedmetophotographthemandgivethemwineateightcentsaquartwhichwedrankoutofatinstovepipe。Theydrankaboutfourfeetofstovepipeorthirty-sixcents"worth，thentheydancedandsangformeinacircle，oldmenandboys，thendrilledwiththeircarbines，andIshowedthemmyrevolverandfield-glassesandthemselvesinthefinderofthecamera；andwhenIhadtogotheytookmeontheirshouldersandmarchedmearoundwavingtheirrifles。

Thentheoldmenkissedmeonthecheekandweallembracedandtheywept，andIfeltasbadlyasthoughIwerepartingfromfiftyfriends。TheytoldmyguidethatifIwouldcomebacktheywouldgetfiftymore"asbraveasthey"andIcouldbecaptain。

Icouldnotbegintotellyoualltheamusingthingsthathavehappenedinthisoneweek。Ididnotwanttocomeatall，onlyasternsenseofdutymademe。ForIwantedtowritetheplayinCharley"sgildedhallsandgettoParisandLondon。

ButIcanneverceaserejoicingthatItookthistrip。Anditwillmakethebook，"AYearfromaReporter"sDiary，"ascompleteasitcanbe。ThatwaswhyIcame。NowIhavetheCoronationoftheCzar，theMillennialatHungary，theInaugurationatWashington，theQueen"sJubilee，theWarinCuba，andtheGreco-TurkishWar。Thatisagoodyear"sworkandImeantoloafafterit。YouwilllaughandsaythatthatiswhatIalwayssay，butifyouknewhowIhadtokickmyselfoutofFlorenceandtheCascinetocomehereyouwouldbelieveme。IwantarestandIamcuttingthisveryshort。

Don"tfailtocutanythingDadandMotherdon"tlikeoutoftheInaugurationarticle。Youwillhavemewithyouthiswinteronmylittlebicycleandgoingtodancesandnotpayingboardtoanyone。RememberhowIusedtothreatentogotoGreecewhenthecoffeewasnotgood。Itseemstoofunnynow，forIneverwasinabetterplace，orhadmorefunorsawlessofwarorthesignsofwar。

DICK。

May7，1897。

10EastTwenty-EighthStreet-NIT

Sponitza。

DEARCHAS。

ThisisoneoftheplacesoutofPhroso，butasyouneverreadPhrosoIwillcutallthat——IhatetosayitsosoonagainbutthisisthemostbeautifulcountrytotraveloverIhaveseen——Itisafairytheatricalgrandoperacountrywhereeverybodydressesinpetticoatsandgoldbraidedvestsandcarrycarbinestotendsheepwith——IrodefromSantaMaura(seemap)toaspotoppositePrevesawheretheysaidtherewasgoingtobebombarding——TherewasnotofcoursebutIhadIthinkthemostbeautifulrideofmylife。

Iwasabsolutelyhappy——littlelambsbleatedandkidsbuttedeachotherandpeasantsinfurcloakswithoutsleevesandintightslikeprincessatonrocksandplayedpipesandtheskywasblue，themountainscoveredwithsnowandthefieldsandhillsfullofpurplebushesandyellowandblueflowersandsheep——Therewasacablestationofyellowadobe。ItwastheonlybuildinganditlookedacrossatPrevesabutnobodybombarded。Thegeneralgavemecognacandthecableoperatorplayedaguitarformeandthepreyorsangafinebass，thecorporalnottobeoutdonegavemechocolateandthearmystoodaroundinthesunandjoinedintheconversationcorrectingthegeneralandeachotherandtakingofftheirhatstoallthenoblesentimentswetoasted。Itwasjustlikeacomicopera。

AfterawhilewhenIhadfinishedafinehunckofcheeseandhardeggsandbrownbreadItookaphotographoftheGeneralandthecableoperatorandtheofficerwiththebassvoiceandhalfofthearmy——Theotherhalfwasthensenttoescortmetothisplace。ItwalkedandIrodeandthereweremanyhaltsfordrinksandcigarettes。Theyallranafterastraycoltandwerelostforsometimebutwere-mobilizedandadvancedwithgreateffectintothistown。Iwasheretakeninchargebyatleastfiftysailorsandasmanysoldiersandcomicoperabrigandsindrawersandwhitepetticoats，whoconductedmetoahouseonthehillwheretheinnkeeperbroughtmealivechickentoapproveoffordinner。

ThenthemayorofthetownturnedupingoldclothesandBarrisonSisterskirtsandsaidtheGeneralhadtelegraphedaboutmeandthatIwashis——Theinnkeeperweptandsaidhehadseenmefirstandthechorusofsoldiers，sailorsandbrigandsalljoinedin。IkeptoutofitbutIknewtheMayorwouldwinandhedid。Thenwewentouttoaman-of-warthesizeoftheVagabondandweresolemnlyassuredtherewouldbebombardingofPrevesato-morrow——Igotosleepinthathope。WeleavehereatsevencrossingtheriverandrideaftertheGreekswhoareapproachingPrevesafromthelandsidewhilethemen-of-warbombarditfromtheriver。Atleastthatiswhattheysay。IthinkitisthemildestwaronbothsidesIeverheardofandIcertainlymeantobeaTimescorrespondentnexttimeIplayatgoingtowar——AfterbeinginsultedandfrightenedtodeathalloverCuba，thisisthepleasantestpicnicIwaseveron——TheyseriouslyapologizedfornotbombardingwhileIwasthereandIsaidnottomentionit——Withlotsoflove，oldman，andtothefamilyDICK。

FLORENCE

May16，1897。

DEARFAMILY:

HereIamsafeandsoundagainintheoldroomsinFlorence。

Iwasgonetwenty-threedaysandwastravelingnineteenofthem，walking，riding；insailboats，inthecars，andonsteamers。IhavehadmoreexperiencesandadventuresthanI

everhadbeforeinthreemonthsandquiteenoughtolastmeforyears。

AftermyhappyridethroughTurkeyandtheretreatoftheGreekarmyinArta，ofwhichIwroteyoulast，IhavebeeninThessalywhereIsawthetwodays"battleofVelestinosfromthebeginninguptotheend。ItwastheonerealbattleofthewarandtheGreeksfoughtwellfromthefirsttothelast。

IleftAthensonthe29thofAprilwithJohnBass，aHarvardgraduate，andamostcharmingandattractiveyouthwhois，orwas，inchargeoftheJournalmen；StephenCranebeingamongthenumber。Heseemsageniuswithnoresponsibilitiesofanysorttoanyone，andIandBasslefthimatVelestinosaftertravelingwithhimforfourdays。CranewenttoVolo，asdideveryothercorrespondent，leavingBassandmyselfinVelestinos。Asthevillagershadrunaway，weburglarizedthehouseofthemayorandmadeitourhabitationwhilethecourierhuntedforfood。Itwaslike"TheSwissFamilyRobinson，"andwerejoicedoverthediscoveryofsoapandtableclothsandstrayknivesandforks，justasthoughwehadbeencastonadesertisland。BassdidthecookingandIlaidthetableandwashedupandmadethebeds，whichwerefulloffleas。Butwehadbeensleepingonchairsandonthefloorforaweeksowedidnotmindmuch。

Theseconddaywewereawakenedbycannonandyoucanimagineourjoyandexcitement。Wehaditalltoourselvesforeighthours，asittooktheothercorrespondentsthatlongtoarrive。Itwasanartilleryandinfantrybattleandabout20，000menwereengagedonbothsides。TheGreeksfoughtfromlittletrenchesonthehillsbackofthetownandtheTurksadvancedacrossagreatgreenprairie。Itwasverylongrangeandonlytwicedidtheygettowithinaquarterofamileofourtrenches。BassandIwentallovertheGreeklines，foryouwerejustassafeinoneplaceasinanother，whichmeansthatitwasn"tsafeanywhere，sowegaveupconsideringthatandfollowedthefightasbestwecouldfromthefirsttrench，whichwastheonlyonethatgaveanuninterruptedviewoftheTurkishforces。Itwasabrilliantlycleardaybutopenedwithahailstorm，whichenabledtheTurkstocrawluphalfamileinthesuddendarkness。ItalsogavemetheworstattackofsciaticaIeverhad。Fortunately，itdidnotcomeonbadlyuntilIreachedVolo，whenitsuddenlytookholdofmesothatIcouldnotwalk。Thetrencheswerewetwiththerainandwehadnoclothestochangeto，andtwomoreshowerskeptusmoreorlesswetallday。WehadafineviewofeverythingandI

learnedalot。

Wewereunderaheavyfireforthirteenhoursandcertainlyhadsomeverycloseescapes。Attimesthefiringwassofiercethatifyouhadraisedyourarmaboveyourhead，thehandwouldhavebeeninstantlytornoff。Wehadtolieonourstomachswithourchinsinthedirtandnotsomuchasbudge。

ThiswaswhentheTurkishfirehappenedtobedirectedonourtrench。Atsuchtimesalltheothertrencheswouldfiresoastodrawtheattackaway，andwewouldhavetowaituntilitwasover。Theshellssoundedlikethejarringsoundoftelegraphwireswhenonehitsthepoletheyhangfromwithastone；andwhentheshellswereclosetheysoundedlikethenoisemadebytwotrainspassinginoppositedirectionswhenthewindisdrivenbetweenthecars。Thebulletsweremuchworsethantheshellsasyoucouldalwayshearthemcoming，andthebulletsslippedupandpassedyouinasneakingwaywithanoiselikerustlingsilk，orifsomeonehadtornasilkhandkerchiefwithasharppull。Oneshellstruckthreefeetfrommeandknockedmeoverwiththedirtandstonesandfilledmynoseandmouthwithpebbles。Iwentbackanddugitoutofthegroundwhileitwasstillhotandhaveitasasouvenir。IsworeterriblyatthebulletsandBassusedtogrininasicklyway。Itmadeyourhaircreepwhentheycameveryclose。Onemannextmegotashotthroughthebreastwhilehewasramminghiscleanerdownthebarrel，andtherewerethreekilledwithinthelimitsofourfiftyyards。Wecouldnotgetbackbecausetherewasacrossfirethatsweptaplacewehadtopassthrough，justaboutthewaythewindcomesaroundtheCityHallinthetimesofablizzard。WecalleditDeadMan"sCurve，afterthatatFourteenthStreetandUnionSquare，becauseitwassprinkledwithdeadammunition，mulesandsoldiers。Wecamethroughitthefirsttimewithoutknowingwhatweweregettingintoandwehadnodesiretogobackagain。Sowewaiteduntilthesunset。Itooksomeofthefinestphotographsandprobablytheonlyonesevertakenofabattleatsuchcloserange。

Wheneverthemenfired，IwouldshootoffthecameraandI

expectIhavesomeprettygreatpictures。BasstooksomeofmesoifthereisanyquestionastowhetherIwasattheCoronation，therewillbenoneastowhetherIwasatVelestinos。

Ourhousewashitwithtwoshellsandbulletsfelllikethegentlerainfromheavenalloverthecourtyard，sowewouldhavebeennosafertherethanbehindthetrenches。Wesentoffthefirstaccountofthebattlewrittenbyanybodybymidday，andstayedonuntilthenextdayatfourwhentheplacewasevacuatedingoodorderbecause，asusual，theCrownPrincewasrunningaway——fromPharsaliathistime。

TheysayinGreece"Lewes，thepeasant，wontheracefromMarathon，butConstantinetheprince，wontheracefromLarissa。"

IwasallrightuntilIgottoVolowhenmyrightlegrefusedabsolutelytodoitsactandIhadtobecarriedonadonkey。

AGreekthoughtIlookedfunnysittinggroaningonthelittledonkey；whichIdid——Ilookedridiculous。Sohelaughed，andBassandaFrenchjournalistbattedhimoverthefaceandleftmeclingingtothedonkey"sneckandhowlingtothemtocomebackandholdmeup。Buttheypreferredtofight，andapolicemancamealongandarrestedtheunhappyGreekandbeathimoverthehead，justforluck，andmarchedhimofftojail，justforlaughing。

Theytookmetothehospitalshipwhichwasstarting，andI

cametoAthensthatwaywithonehundredandsixteenwounded；

themanonmyrighthadhisanklesgoneandthemanonthelefthadabulletinhisside。TheygroanedallnightandsodidI。Thenwhenthesunrosetheysang，whichwasworse。I

neversawanythingmorebeautifulthanthered-crossnurses，andIguessthatisthemostbeautifulpictureIshalleversee——thosesweet-facedgirlsinblueandwhitebendingoverthedirtyfrightenedlittlepeasantboysandtakingcareoftheirwounds。Imadelovetoallofthemandaskedthreetomarryme。IwasinbedfortwodaysafterIgottoAthensbuthadafinetime，asalltheofficersfromtheSanFrancisco，fromtheadmiraldown，cametoseeme，andtheminister，consulandtherestdidallthatcouldhavebeendone。IamnowallrightandwasbicyclinginthedearoldCascinethismorning。Onthewholeitwasamostsuccessfultrip。

SylvesterScovelandPhillipsofTheWorldarrivedjustasitwasallover，andsoBassandIareabouttheonlytwoAmericanswhowereinit。

ThetrainfromBrindisistoppedatRomeonthewaybackandI

wenttoseethePages。TheytookmeoutandshowedmeRomebymoonlightinonehour。Itwaslikeacinematograph。Theyareherenowandcomingtodinnertonight。Lastnighttheconsulhadallourfriendstodinnertowelcomemeback，andmaybeI

wasnotglad。Ihadbeenlivingoncheeseandbrownbreadandcoldlambfortwoweeks，withnotobacco，andsleepingfivehoursanightonfloorsandsofas。Sometimestheofficersandmenfoughtforfood，andwenevergotanythingwarmtoeatexceptoccasionallytinnedthingswhichwecookedinmykit。

ItwasthemostsatisfactorytripallroundIeverhad。I

havebeentwentyyearstryingtobeinabattleanditwillbetwentyyearsmorebeforeIwillwanttobeinanother。

OntheeighteenthIstartforLondon，stoppingonedayinParistoseetheClarksandEustises。ItisgoingtobebiggerthantheCoronationforcrowds，andMotherneednotworry，Ishallkeepoutofit。TheMinistertoRussiasentmewordthattheCzar"sprimeministerhasgivenhimmyarticleandthattheCzarsaidthankhimverymuch。Sothatisallright。AlsoHayistopresentmetothePrinceattheleveeonthe3tstofMay，andIshallsendhimacopy，too。IamlookingforwardtoLondonwithsuchjoy。TellMothertosendmetheBookbuyerwithherarticleinit。Ihaveonlyreadthereviewsofit，andtheyaresoenthusiasticthatImusthavethewholethingquick。ItwassuchafinethingtodoaboutPoe，andtogivethoseothertwofetishesthecoupdegrace。ItreadssplendidlyandIwantitall。WhatdidDadthinkoftheInaugurationarticle？IsendyouallmydearestloveandwillhavelotstotellyouwhenIgetbackthistime。

Godblessyouall。

DICK。

RichardleftFlorencethelatterpartofMay，andwenttoLondonwherehehadmadearrangementstoreporttheQueen"sJubilee。HebeganhisroundofgayetiesbybeingpresentedatCourt。TheMissGrovesandMissWathertowhomherefersinthefollowingletterweretheclerksatCox"shotel。

LONDON，June2nd，1897。

DEARFAMILY:

IwasabeautifulsightattheLevee。IworeavelvetsuitmadeespeciallyformebutnodearerforthatandsteelbuttonsandabeautifulsteelswordandacourthatwithsilveronthesideandsilkstockingsthatIworeatMoscowandpumpswithgreatbuckles。Iwastoomagnificentforwordsandsoyouwouldhavesaid。IwaitedalongtimeinalonghallcrowdedwithgeneralsandseacaptainsandhighlandersandvolunteersandcavalrymenandjudgesandfinallywasadmittedpastaropeandthenpastanotherropeandthenrushedalongintothethroneroomwhereIsawbeefeatersandlifeguardsmenandchamberlainswithwhitewandsandIgaveonemycardandhereadout"R。H。D。oftheUnitedStatesbytheAmericanAmbassador"andthenIbowedtothePrinceandDukeofYork，ConnaughtandEdinburghandtotheAmericanAmbassadorandthenHenryWhiteandSpencerEddy，thetwoSecretariesandthenavalattacheallshookhandswithmeandIwentaroundinahansominthebrightsunshineinhopesoffindingsomeonewhowouldknowme。ButnoonedidsoIwenttoCox"sHotelandshowedmyselftoMissGrovesandMissWather。I

wentontheTerraceyesterdaywiththeLeitersandatO"Connor"sinvitationbroughtthemtotea。LaboucherewasthereandDillonjustoutofjailanditwasmostinteresting。Iamvery，verybusydoingnothingandhavingafinetime——

DICK。

LONDON，June21，1897。

DEARMOTHER:

WordscannottellatleastnotunlessIamwellpaidforitwhatLondonisliketo-day。Inthefirstplaceitissojammedthatnoonecanmoveanditishungwithdecorationssothatnoonecansee。RoyalcarriagesgetstuckjustasdothehumbledraymanorPickford"sVanandroyaltiesarelodgingincheaphotelswithnothingbutacoupleofGrenadier"sinsentryboxestoshowtheyareanybetterbloodedthantherestofthelodgers。IalsoaddedtotheconfusionbygivingalunchtotheAmbassadorandMissHayinreturnforthepresentation。LadyHenryandMrs。AsquithsatoneithersideofhimandMrs。ClarkhadAsquithandLordBasilBlackwoodtotalkto——TherewasalsoAnthonyHope，thebeautifulJuliaNeilsonandherhusbandFredTerryandLadyEdwardCecilandLordLester——ItwentofffineandtheSavoypeoplesentinanAmericanEagleofice，decoratedwithAmericanflagsanddrippingicytearsfromitsbeak。Itcostmefiveshillingsaheadandlookedasthoughitcostthatinpounds——TonightI

dinewiththeGouldsandthengotoamusicalwhereMelbasings，PadewreskiplaysandthenwalkthestreetsifIcanuntildaybreakasIthinkofmakingthenightbeforetheprocessionthegreaterpartofthestory。Isendyouaplanshowingmyseatwhichcostmetwenty-fivedollars，theadvertisedpricebeing$125。buttherehasbeenaterribleslumpinseats。LovetodearDadandNora。

DICK。

LONDON。

89JermynStreet，June25th，1897。

DEARMOTHER:

TheJubileeturnedouttobetheeasiestspectacletogetatandtogetawayfromthatIeverwitnessed。Experienceinchoosingaplaceandpoliceregulationsmadeitsosimplethatwewentstraighttoourseatsandgotawayagainwithoutasmuchtroubleasitwouldhavetakentohavegonetoamatinee。

Thestagemanagementofthethingalmostimpressedmemorethananythingelse。ForgrandeurandshowitaboutequalledtheprocessionoftheCzarandinmanywaysitwasmoreinterestingbecauseitwasconcernedwithourownpeopleandwithourownpartoftheworld。NexttotheQueen，LordRobertsgotalloftheapplause。HerodealittlewhiteponythathadbeenwithhiminsixcampaignsandhadcarriedhimonhismarchtoCandahar。IthadallthecampaignmedalspresentedtoitbytheWarDepartmentandworetheminalineonitsforehead，andwalkedjustasthoughheknewwhatagreatoccasionitwas。AfterRobertscameinpopularityaCol。MauriceCliffordwiththeRhodesianHorseinsombrero"sandcartridgebeltsandkhakisuits。Hehadlosthisarmandwaseasilyrecognized。WilfredLauriertheFrenchPremierofCanadaandtheLordMayorweretheotherfavourites。ThesceneinfrontofSt。Paul"swasabsolutelymagnificentwiththesootypillarsbehindthegroupsofdiplomats，bishopsandchoirboysinwhite，Universitymeninpinksilkgowns，andsoldiers，beefeaters，gentlemenatarmsandthetwoArchbishops。Thebestmomentwaswhenthecollectedtroops；negroes，Chinamen，EastIndians，WestIndians，Africantroopers，CanadianMountedPolice，Australians，BorneopoliceandEnglishGrenadiersallsangthedoxologytogetherinthebeautifulsunshineandundertheshadowofthatgreatfacadeofblackandwhitemarble。AlsowhentheArchbishopofCanterburywithoutanywarningsuddenlyafterkissingtheQueen"shandthrewuphisarmandcriedoutsothatyoucouldhaveheardhimahundredyardsoff"ThreeCheersforHerMajesty"andthediplomats，andforeignrajahsandbishopsandSalvationArmycaptainswavedtheirhatsandmortarboardsandthesoldiersrantheirbearskinsandhelmetsontheirbayonetsandspunthemaroundintheair。Theweatherwasabsolutelyperfectandtherewerenoaccidents。