第4章

ThatRichardlostnotimeinmakingfriendsatOxfordas，indeed，heneverfailedtodowhereverhewent，thefollowingletterstohismotherwouldseemtoshow:

OXFORD——May，1892。

DEARFAMILY:

IcamedownhereonSaturdaymorningwiththePeels，whogaveanenormousboatingpartyandluncheononatinylittleisland。Thedaywasbeautifulwithawarmbrilliantsun，andtheriverwasjustasnarrowandprettyastheheadoftheSquanriver，andwitholdwallsandcollegebuildingsadded。

WehadtheprettiestMrs。PeelinourboatandMrs。JosephChamberlain，whowasMissEndicottandwhoisverysweetandpretty。Weracedtheotherpuntsandrowboatsandsoon，aftermuchsplashingandexertion，reachedtheheadoftheriver。

Thenwewentto，teainNewCollegeandtoseethesightsofthedifferentcollegesnowontheThames。Thebargesofthecolleges，painteddifferentcolorsandgildedlikecircusband-wagonsanddecoratedwithcoatsofarmsandflyinggreatflags，linedtheoneshoreforaquarterofamileandwerecoveredbygirlsinprettyfrocksandunder-gradsinblazers。

Thentheboatscameintosightoneafteranotherwiththemenrunningalongsideonthetowpath。Thiswasoneofthemostremarkablesightsofthecountrysofar。Therewereoversixhundredmencomingsixabreast，fallingandstumblingandpushing，shoutingandfiringpistols。Itsoundedlikeacavalrychargeandthelineseemedendless。Thewholethingwasmosttheatricalandeffective。ThenwewenttotheannualdinnerofthePalmerstonClub，whereImadeaspeechwhichwas，asthereisnooneelsetotellyou，wellreceived，"beingfrequentlyinterruptedwithapplause，"fromboththedinersandtheladiesinthegallery。ItwasaboutFreeTradeandthewayAmericawasmisrepresentedintheEnglishpapers，andcomposedoffunnystorieswhichhadnothingtodowiththespeech。I

didnotknowIwasgoingtospeakuntilIgotthere，andconsideringthefact，asWilsonsays，thatyourunclewasplayingonastrangetablewithacrookedcuehedidverywell。ThenextmorningwebreakfastedwiththeBursarofTrinityandhadluncheonwiththeViscountSt。CyrestomeetLordandLadyColeridge。St。Cyresisveryshyandwell-bred，andwewouldhavehadagoodtimehadnottheM。P。"spresentbeenfilledwithaweoftheLordChiefJusticeandfailedtodrawhimout。

Asitwashetoldsomeveryfunnystories；thenwewenttoteawithHubertHoward，inwhoseroomsIliveandamnowwriting，andmetsomestupidEnglishwomenandshygirls。ThenwedinedwiththedonsatNewCollege，so——calledbecauseitiseighthundredyearsold。Wesatatahightableinabighallhungwithpicturesandlitbycandles。Theunder-gradssatbeneathingownsandrattledpewtermugs。Weallworeeveningdressandthosethathadthemredandwhitefurcollars。

Afterdinnerwelefttheroomaccordingtosomeprocessofselection，carryingournapkinswithus。WeenteredaroomcalledtheCommons，wherewedrankwinesandatenutsandraisins。Itwasallverysolemnanddullandverydignified。

Outsideitwasquitelightalthoughnineo"clock。Thenwemarchedtoanotherroomwheretherewerecigarsandbrandyandsoda，butArthurPollenandIhadtogoandtakecoffeewiththeMasterofBalliol，theonlyindividualofwhomPollenstandsintheleastawe。Hewasadearoldmanwhosaid，"O

yes，you"refromIndia，"andonmysaying"No，fromAmerica"；

hesaid，"Oyes，it"stheotherone。"IfoundtheotheronewasanIndianprincessinacashmerecloakanddiamonds，wholookedsoproudandlovelyandbeautifulthatIwantedtotakeherouttooneoftheseatsinthequadrangleandletherweeponmyshoulder。HowshelivesamongthesecoldpeopleI

cannotunderstand。Wewerealltogotoaconcertinthechapel，andhalfofthepartystartedoff，buttheMaster"swifesaid，"Oh，IamsuretheMasterexpectsthemtowaitforhiminthehall。Itisalwaysdone。"Atwhichallthewomenmadeflutteringremarksofsympathyandthemenracedofftobringtheothersback。OnlytheIndiangirlandIremainedundisturbedandpuzzled。Thepartycameback，buttheMastersawthemandsaid，"Well，itdoesnotmatter，butitisgenerallydone。"Atwhichweallfeltguilty。WhenwegottothechapeleverybodystoodupuntiltheMaster"spartysatdown，butasitwasbrokeninthemiddleoftheprocession，theysatdown，andthen，seeingwehadnotallpassed，gotupagain，sothatIfeltlikesaying，"Asyouwere，men，"astheydooutWestinthebarracks。ThenLordColeridgeintakingoffhisovercoattookoffhisundercoat，too，andstoodunconsciousofthefactbeforethewholeofOxford。Thefacesoftheaudiencewhichpackedtheplaceweresomethingwonderfultosee；theirdesiretolaughatatall，red-facedmanwholookslikeabucolicBillNyestrugglingintohiscoat，andthenhorroratseeingtheChiefJusticeinhisshirt-sleeves，wasaterribleeffort——andnoonewouldhelphim，ontheprinciple，Isuppose，thattheQueenofSpainhasnolegs。

HewouldhavebeenstrugglingyetifIhadnot，afterwatchinghimandLadyColeridgestrugglingwithhim，forafullminute，takenhiscoatandfirmlypulledtheoldgentlemanintoit，atwhichheturnedhisheadandwinked。

IwillgobacktotownbythefirsttoseetheDerbyandwillgetintolodgingsthere。IAMHAVINGAVERYGOODTIMEANDAM

VERYWELL。Theplaceisasbeautifulasoneexpectsandyetallthetimestartlingonewithitsbeauty。

DICK。

WhentheseasonatOxfordwasoverRichardreturnedtoLondonandtookabigsunnysuiteofroomsintheAlbany。HerehesettleddowntolearnallhecouldofLondon，itswaysanditspeople。InNewYorkhehadalreadymetanumberofEnglishmenandwomendistinguishedinvariouswalksoflife，andwiththeseasanucleushesoonextendedhiscircleoffriendsuntilitbecameaslargeasitwasvaried。Inhisyouth，andindeedthroughouthislife，RichardhadthegreatestaffectionforEnglandandtheEnglish。NotruerAmericaneverlived，buthethoughttheUnitedStatesandGreatBritainwereboundbytiesthatmustendurealways。HeadmiredBritishhabits，theircosmopolitanismandtheverysimplicityoftheirmodeofliving。Helovedtheircountrylife，andtheswirlofLondonneverfailedtothrillhim。DuringthelasthalfofhislifeRichardhadperhapsasmanyintimatefriendsinLondonasinNewYork。Hisfreshpointofview，hisveryeagernesstounderstandtheirs，madethemwelcomehimmoreasoneoftheirownpeoplethanasastranger。

LONDON，June3，1892。

DEARFAMILY:

IwentouttotheDerbyonWednesdayandthinkitisthemostinterestingthingIeversawoverhere。ItisSOlikethesepeoplenevertohaveseenit。ItseemstobechieflycomposedofcostermongersandAmericans。Igotabox-seatonapubliccoachandwentoutatten。Werodeforthreehoursinaprocessionofdonkeyshays，omnibuses，coaches，carriages，vans，advertisingwagons；everysortofconveyancestretchingforsixteenmiles，andwithpeopleliningthesidestolookon。IspentmytimewhenIgottherewanderingaroundoverthegrounds，whichwerelikeBarnum"scircusmultipliedbythousands。Itwasabeautifuldayandquitethemostremarkablesightofmylife。MuchmorewonderfulthanJohnstown，soyouseeitmusthaveimpressedme。Wewerefivehoursgettingback，thepeoplesingingallthewayandpeltingoneanotherandsayingfunnyimpudentthings。

Myroomsaresomethinggorgeous。Theyareonthefirstfloor，lookingintoPiccadillyfromacourt，andtheyarefilledwithHogarth"sprints，oldsilver，blueandwhitechina，Zuluweaponsandfurrugs，andeasychairsofIndiasilk。Youneversawsuchrooms!Andaverygoodservant，whocooksandvaletsmeandrunserrandsandtakessuchgoodcareofmethatlastnightCustandBalfourcalledatonetogetsomesupperandhewouldnotletthemin。ThinkofhavingtheLeaderoftheHouseofCommonscometoaskyouforfoodandhavinghimsentaway。Burdett-Couttsheardofmybeinghereinthepapersandwrotemetodinewithhimtonight。IlunchedwiththeTennantstoday；norelationtoMrs。Stanley，anditwasinformalandfunnyrather。TheEarlofSpenderwasthereandLordPembrokeandalotofwomen。Theygotupandwalkedaboutandchangedplacesandseemedtoknowoneanotherbetterthanwedoathome。IthinkIwillgodowntoOxfordforWhitsuntide，whichisaheatheninstitutionherewhichsendseveryoneawayjustasIwanttomeetthem。

Ihaven"twrittenanythingyet。Ifindithardtodoso。I

thinkIwouldratherwaituntilIgethomeforthemostofit。

Chas。willbehereinlessthanaweeknowandwewillhaveagoodtime。Ihaveplanneditoutfordays。HemustgotoOxfordandmeetthoseboys，andthen，ifhewishes，ontoEastnor，whichIlearnsincemyreturnisoneoftheshowplacesofEngland。Iamenjoyingmyself，itisneedlesstosay，verymuch，andamwellandhappy。

DICK。

DuringthesefirstdaysinEnglandRichardspentmuchofhistimeatEastnor，LadyBrownlow"splaceinLincolnshire，andoneofthemostbeautifulestatesinEngland。HarryCust，towhommybrotherfrequentlyrefersinhisletters，wasthenephewofLadyBrownlow，andagreatfriendofRichard"s。AtthattimeCustwastheConservativenomineeforParliamentfromLincolnshire，andRichardtookamostactivepartinthecampaign。Happily，wewerebothatLadyBrownlow"sduringitslastfewtensedays，aswellasonthedaythevoteswerecounted，andCustwaselectedbyanarrowmargin。OfourthrillingadventuresRichardafterwardwroteatgreatlengthin"OurEnglishCousins。"

LONDON，July6，1892。

DEARMOTHER:

OntheFourthofJuly，LadyBrownlowsentintotownandhadabigAmericanflagbroughtoutandplacedoverthehouse，whichwasagreatcompliment，asitwasseenandcommentedonformilesaround。CushingofBoston，averynicechapandawfullyhandsome，isthere，too。ThesamemorningIwentouttophotographthesoldiers，andLordWilliamFrederick，whoistheircolonel，chargedthemaftermewheneverIappeared。ItseemshehasasenseofhumorandlikedtheideaofmakinganAmericanrunontheFourthofJulyfromRed-coats。Idoubtifthefivehundredmenwhowerenotonhorsebackthoughtitasfunny。TheychasedmetillI

thoughtIwoulddie。TheConservativememberforthecountygotinlastnightandwerejoicedgreatly，asthemoraleffectwillhelpHarryCustgreatly。HiselectiontakesplacenextMonday。Themenwentintohearthevotedeclaredafterdinner，andsodidtwoofthegirls，whogotLadyBrownlow"sconsentatdinner，andthendashedofftochangetheirgownsbeforeshecouldchangehermind。Aswewereintentonseeingthefunanddidn"twantthem，wetookthemjustwherewewouldhavegoneanyway，whichwaswherethefightingwas。Andtheyshowedrealsportingbloodandsawtheotherrealsort。Therewerethreeofustoeachgirl，anditwasmostexciting，withstonesflyingandwindowscrashingandcheersandgroans。A

politicalmeetingorelectionathomeisanafternoonteatotheEnglishones。WhenwecamebackthesoldierswereleavingtheParktostoptherow，andasweflewpast，thetenantsrantothegateandcheeredfortheToryvictoryin"goodoldlopes。"Whenwegottothehousetheservantsrancheeringallovertheshopandrangthealarmbellandbuiltfires，andwehadasupperatone-fifteen。WhattheywilldoonthenightofCust"selection，Icannotimagine——

burnthehousedownprobably。CushingandIenjoyitimmensely。Weknowthemwellenoughnowtobeasfunnyaswelikewithouthavingthemstare。Theyarenicewhenyouknowthem，butyou"veGOTtoknowthemfirst。IhadagreatdinneratFarrar"s。AlltheecclesiasticallightsofEnglandinknee-breecheswerethere，andtheAmericanMinisterandPhillipsBrooks。Itwasquitenovelandfun。Lotsoflove。

IhaveallthemoneyIwant。

DICK。

WithCustproperlyelected，RichardandIreturnedtotheAlbanyandsettleddowntoenjoyLondonfrommanyangles。

Althoughmybrotherhadbeentherebutafewweeks，hisacquaintancesamongthestatesmen，artists，socialcelebrities，andtheprominentactorsofthedaywasquiteasextraordinaryashisgeographicalandhistoricalknowledgeofthecity。Wegavemanyjollyparties，andonaccountofRichard"squicklyacquiredpopularitywereconstantlybeinginvitedtodinners，dances，andlessformalbutmostamusingBohemiansupper-parties。Duringthesedaystherewaslittleopportunityformybrothertodomuchwriting，buthewasverybusymakingmentalnotesnotonlyforhiscomingbookontheEnglishpeople，butforanumberofshortstorieswhichhewroteafterwardinlessstrenuoustimes。WereturnedtoNewYorkinAugust，andRichardwenttoMariontorestfromhissocialactivities，andtoworkonhisEnglisharticles。

CHAPTERVI

THEMEDITERRANEANANDPARIS

Itwas，Ithink，theyearprevioustothisthatmymotherandfatherhaddesertedPointPleasantasaplacetospendtheirsummervacationsinfavorofMarion，onCapeCod，andRichardandI，asamatterofcourse，followedthemthere。AtthattimeMarionwasasimplelittlefishingvillagewhereafewverycharmingpeoplecameeverysummerandwherethefishingwasofthebest。Inallwaysthelifewasmostprimitive，andhappilycontinuedsoformanyyears。In，theseearlydaysGroverClevelandandhisbridehadacottagethere，andheandJosephJefferson，wholivedatBuzzard"sBay，andmyfatherwentondailyfishingexcursions。RichardWatsonGilderwasoneoftheearliestsettlersofthesummercolony，andmanydistinguishedmembersoftheliteraryandkindredprofessionscametheretovisithim。Itwasaratherdrowsylifeforthosewhodidn"tfish——agreatdealofsittingaboutonone"sneighbor"sporchanddiscussionofthelatestnovelorthenewestart，orofone"ssoul，andspeculatingastowhatwouldprobablybecomeofit。FromthefirstRichardformedagreataffectionfortheplace，andafterhismarriageadopteditashiswinteraswellashissummerhome。Asaworkshophehadtworoomsinoneofthenatives"cottages，andtwomorecharmingroomsitwouldbehardtoimagine。Thelittleshingledcottagewasliterallycoveredwithhoneysuckle，andinsidethereweretheoldwall-papers，theopenhearths，themahoganyfurniture，andthemanycharmingthingsthathadbeenthereforgenerations，andallofwhichhelpedtocontributetothequaintpeacefulatmosphereoftheplace。DanaGibsonhadacottagejustacrosstheroad，andaroundthecornerGouverneurMorrislivedwithhisfamily。AtthistimeneitherofthesefriendsofRichard，norRichardhimself，alliedthemselvesverycloselytotheliterarycolonyanditshighthoughts，butdevotedmostoftheirtimetosailingaboutSippicanHarbor，playingtennisandcontributinganoccasionalshortstoryoranillustrationtoapopularmagazine。Butafterthecolonyhadtakenflight，Richardoftenremainedlongintothefall，doingreallyseriousworkandagreatdealofit。Atsuchtimeshehadtodependonafewfriendswhocametovisithim，butprincipallyonthenativestomanyofwhomhewasgreatlyattached。Itwasduringthesedaysthathefirstmethisfuturewife，CecilClark，whosefather，JohnM。ClarkofChicago，wasoneoftheearliestofthesummercoloniststobuildhisownhomeatMarion。Amostcharmingandhospitablehomeitwas，anditwasinthissamehousewherewehadallspentsomanyhappyhoursthatRichardwasmarriedandspenthishoneymoon，andforseveralyearsmadehispermanenthome。OfthelifeofMarionduringthislaterperiod，hebecameanintegralpart，andperformedhisdutiesasoneofitsleadingcitizenswithmuchcredittothetownanditspeople。ForMarionRichardalwaysretainedagreataffection，fortherehehadplayedandworkedmanyofhisbestyears。Hehadlearnedtoloveeverythingofwhichthequaintoldtownwaspossessed，animateandinanimate，andhadIneededanyfurtherproofofhowdeeplythegoodpeopleofMarionlovedRichard，thelettersI

receivedfrommanyofthematthetimeofhisdeathwouldshow。

Intheearlyfallof1892RichardreturnedtohiseditorialworkonHarper"sWeekly，andoneofthefirstassignmentshegavewastodespatchhimselftoChicagotoreporttheDedicationExercisesoftheWorld"sFair。Thatthetripatleaststartedoutlittletomybrother"slikingthefollowingseemstoshow。However，Richard"smoodsfrequentlychangedwiththehour，anditismorethanpossiblethatbeforetheletterwassenthewasenjoyinghimselfhugelyandregardingChicagowithhisusualkindlyeyes。

ChicagoClub，DEARFAMILY:October2，1892。

ThoughlosttosightIamstillthinkingofyousadly。ItseemsthatItookacoupeafterleavingyouandafterlivinginitforafewyearsIgrewtiredandgotoutontheprairieandwalkedalongdrinkinginthepureairfromthelakesandreadingLiebig"sandCooper"sadvs。AfterabrisktenmilewalkIreenteredmycoupeandweintimedrewupbeforealargehotelinhabitedbyaclerkandaregularboarder。Iamontheseventhfloorwithoutabathroomorelectricbutton——I

merelymaderemarksandthenreturnedtotowninarailroadtrainwhichrunsconvenientlynear。AftergainingcivilizationImademywaythroughseveralparadesoritmayhavebeenthesameonetothereviewingstand。MyprogresswasmarkedbymockingremarksbythepolicewhoaskedofeachothertogetontomycoatandonseveraloccasionsIwasmistakenbyacrowdofsomethousandpeoplefortheP——eofW——s，andtumultuouslycheered。AtlastIfoundaninspectorofpoliceonhorseback，whoagreedtogetmetothestandifittookaleg。Heaccordinglychargedabout300womenandclubbedeightmen——Icountedthem——andfinallygotmein。Hewasverydrunkbuthewasverygoodtome。

OncebackfromChicagoRicharddividedhistimebetweenhisdeskatFranklinSquare，hisroomsonTwenty-eighthStreet，andinquicklypickingupthefriendshipsandthesocialactivitieshistriptoEnglandhadtemporarilybrokenoff。

MuchashenowlovedLondon，hewasstillanenthusiasticNewYorker，andtheamountofworkandplayheaccomplishedwasquiteextraordinary。Indeeditisdifficulttounderstandwherehefoundthetimetodosomuch。InadditiontohisworkonHarper"shewrotemanyshortstoriesandspecialarticles，notonlybecausehelovedthemerewritingofthem，butbecausehehadcometosogreatlyenjoythethingshecouldbuywiththemoneyhislaborsnowbroughthim。Hispleasureshadincreasedassteadilyasthepriceshecouldnowcommandforhisstories，andinlookingbackonthosedaysitisratherremarkablewhenoneconsidershisage，thetemptationsthatsurroundedhim，andhisextraordinarycapacityforenjoyment，thatheneverseemstohaveforgottenthebalancebetweenworkandplay，andstucktobothwithanunswervingandunceasingenthusiasm。However，afterfourmonthsofNewYork，hedecideditwashightimeforhimtobeoffagain，andhearrangedwiththeHarperstospendthelatewinterandthespringincollectingmaterialforthetwosetsofarticleswhichafterwardappearedinbookformunderthetitlesof"TheRulersoftheMediterranean"and"AboutParis。"

HesetsailforGibraltartheearlypartofFebruary，1893，andthefollowinglettersdescribehisleisurelyprogressabouttheMediterraneanports。

NEWYORK，February3，1893。

DEARESTMOTHER:

Thisisalittlepresentforyouandagoodby。Yourpacking-caseiswhatIneedandwhatIshallwant，andIloveitbecauseyoumadeit。ButasYOUsay，weunderstandanddonothavetowriteloveletters；youhavegivenmeallthatisworthwhileinme，andIloveyousothatIlookforwardalreadyovermilesandmilesanddaysandmonths，andjustseeussittingtogetheratMarionandtellingeachotherhowgooditistobetogetheragainandholdingeachother"shands。I

don"tbelieveyoureallyknowhowHAPPYIaminlovingyou，dear，andinhavingyousaynicethingsaboutme。Godblessyou，dearest，andmayIneverdoanythingtomakeyoufeellessproudofyourwickedson。

DICK。

OffGibraltar，DEARMOTHER:February12，1893。

TodayisSunday。WearriveatGibraltaratfivetomorrowmorningandtheboatliesthereuntilnineo"clock。Unlesswarandpestilencehavebrokenoutinotherplaces，IshallgoovertoTangiersinadayortwo，andfromtherecontinueonmyjourneyasmappedoutwhenIleft。IhavehadamostdelightfultripandthemostenjoyableIhaveevertakenbysea。Thesesmallboatsareasdifferentfromthebigtwin-screwsteamersasaflatfromaBroadwayhotel。

Everyonegetstoknoweverythingabouteveryoneelse，andithasbeenmorelikeayachtthanapassengersteamer。WhenI

firstcameonboardIthoughtIwouldnotfindinanynewoldcountryIwasabouttovisitanythingmoreforeignthanthepeople，andIwasright，buttheyaremostamusingandIhavelearnedagreatdeal。TheyaredifferentfromanypeopleI

know，andaretheAmericansweweretalkingabout。TheonesofwhomIusedtoreadinTheAtlanticandBlackwood"s，astravelingalwaysandsinkingoutofsightwhenevertheyreachedhome。They，withtheexceptionofaBostoncouple，knownoneofmyfriendsormyhaunts，andIhavelearnedagreatdealinmeetingthem。IthasbeenmostBROADENINGandthechangehasbeenSUCHarest。IhadnoideaofhowtiredIwasoftalkingaboutthetheaterofArtsandLettersandMissWhitney"sdebutandmySoul。Thesepeoplearesimpleandunimaginativeandbourgeoistoadegreeandaskind-heartedandapparentasanimalalphabets。IdonotthinkIhavehadsuchacompletechangeorrestinyears，andIamsureIhavenotlaughedsomuchforaslong。Ofcourse，theideaofasixmonths"holidayisenoughtomakeanyonelaughatanything，butIfindthatbesidesthatIwasagooddealharassedandrundown，andIamgladtocutofffromeverythingandstartfresh。Ifeelmiserablyselfishaboutitallthetime。

TheseGermansruneverythingasthoughyouweretheowneroftheline。ThedisciplineislikethatoftheGermanArmyorofaman-of-war，everythingmovesbythestrokeofabell，andtheyhavehaddancesandspeechesandconcertsandreligiousservicesandlectureseveryotherminute。IntoalloftheseI

havegonewithmuchenthusiasm。Wehaveatthecaptain"stableDr。Field，theeditorofTheEvangelist，JohnRussell，aBostonDemocrat，whowasinCongressandwhohasbeeninpubliclifeforoverfortyyears。ATammanysachem，wholookslikeandworshipsTweed，andwhosayswhatI

neverheardanAmericanoffthestagesay:"That"sme。

That"swhatIdo，"hesays。"WhenIhaveinsomnia，Idon"tbelieveinyoursleepingdraughts。IgetupandgoroundtoJakeStewart"sonFourteenthStreetandeatafryoraporterhousesteakandthenIsleepgood——that"sme。"ThereisalsoalivelyladyfromAlbanynexttomeandherhusband，whotellsanecdotesofthewarjustasthoughithadhappenedyesterday。Indeed，theyareallsomucholderthanIthatalltheirtalkisaboutthingsIneverunderstoodthetruthabout，anditismostinteresting。IreallydonotknowwhenIhaveenjoyedmymealtimesomuch。Thefoodisverygood，althoughqueerandGerman，andwegenerallytaketwohourstoeachsitting。Dr。FieldismyespecialpreyandhemakesmelaughuntilIcry。HeisjustlikeJamesLewisin"ANightOff，"

andisalwaysrubbinghishandsandsmackinghislipsoverhisowndaringexploits。Itwisteverythinghesaysintomeaningsomethingdreadful，andheisinstantlyexplaininghedidnotreallyseeabullfight，butthathewalkedaroundtheoutsideofthebuilding。IhavepromisedtoshowhimlifewithacapitalL，andheisafraidasdeathofme。Buthegotbackatmegrandlylastnightwhenhepresentedatestimonialtothecaptain，andreferredtothecaptain"swifeandboywhomheisgoingtoseeafteratwoyears"absence，atwhichthecaptainweptandeverybodyelsewept。AndField，seeinghehadmadeapoint，wavedhisarmsandcried，"Ihaveneverknownamanwhoamountedtoanythingwhohadnotagoodwifetocarefor——exceptYOU——"heshouted，pointingatme，"andnowomanwilleversaveYOU。"Atwhichthepassengers，whofullyappreciatedhowIhadbeenworryinghim，applaudedloudly，andtheDoctorinhisdelightathavingscoredonmeforgottogivethecaptainhistestimonial。

TherearetwonicegirlsonboardfromChicagoandaqueerSoutherngirlwhopaintspicturesandsingsandwritespoetry，andwhoistravelingwithanoddmarriedwomanwhoisaninvalidandwholikeeveryoneelseonboardhasapparentlyspentallherlifeawayfromhome。IhavespentmyoddtimeinwritingthestoryItoldDadthenightbeforeIsailedandIthinkitinsomewaysthebest，quitethebest，Ihavewritten。Ireadittothequeergirlandherqueerchaperonandtheyweepwhenevertheyspeakofit，whichtheydoeveryhalfhour。Allthepassengersapparentlylaidinastockof"Gallegher"and"TheWest"beforestarting，andyoungwomeninyachtingcapsareconstantlyholdingmeupforautographsandfavoritequotations。YesterdaywepassedtheAzoresnearenoughtoseethewindowsinthehouses，andwehaveseenotherislandsatdifferenttimes，whichisquiterefreshing。

TomorrowIshallpostthisandthetripwillbeover。Ithasbeenamosthappystart。Iamnotgoingtowritelettersoften，butamgoingheadoverearsintothisnewlifeandlettheoldonewaitawhile。YoucannothandleAfricaandkeepupyourfencesinNewYorkatthesametime。IamnowgoingouttotalktotheBostoncouple，ortoproposealionhunttoDr。

Field。

SinceIwrotethatlastIhaveseenPortugal。ItmademeseemsuddenlyveryfarawayfromNewYork。Portugalisahighhillwithawhitewatchtoweronitflyingsignalflags。Itisapparentlyinhabitedbyonemanwholivesinalongrowofyellowhouseswithredroofs，andpopulatedbysheepwhodograndactsofbalancingonthesideofthehill。ThereisalsoaNavyofabrownboatwithaleg-of-muttonsailandacrewofthreemenintheboat——nottospeakofthedog。Itisagreatthingtohaveatraveledson。NoneofyoueversawPortugal，yah!

IamnowinGibraltar。Itisalargeplaceandtheredoesnotseemtoberoominthisletter，inwhichtoexpressmyfeelingsaboutMoorsinbarelegsandsixthousandRed-coatsandtohearEnglishmenspeakagain。WhenIwokeupGibraltarwasablacksilhouetteagainstthesky，buttowardthesouththerewasalowlineofmountainswitharedskybehindthem，dimandmysteriousandold，andthatwasAfrica。ThenSpainturnedupallamethystandgreen，andtheMediterraneanasblueastheytellyouitis。Theywouldn"tletmetakemygunintoGibraltar。

Theyknowmyreputationforwar。

DICK。

GIBRALTAR。

February14th，1893。

DEARMOTHER:

TheluckoftheBritishArmywhichIammodestlyfondofcomparingwithmyowntookavacationyesterdayassoonasI

hadsetfootonland。InthefirstplaceEgypthadsettleddowntohersluggishNilelikecalmandcholerahadquarantinedtheshipIwantedtotaketoAlgiers，shuttingoffAlgiersandwhatwasmoreimportantTunis。TheGovernorwasillshuttingoffthingsIwantedandhisadjutantwasboorishandproudandhaughty。ThenIdeterminedtogotoSpainbutfoundIhadarrivedjustonedaytoolateforthelastofthethreedaysoftheMardiGrasandtooearlyforbullfights。HadItakenSaavedra"slettersIshouldhavegonetoMadridandmettheQueenandotherproudfolks。SoonthewholeIwasblue。

ButIhavenowdeterminedtotakeaboatforTangieratoncewhereIhaveletterstotheDukedeTnaswhoistheMasteroftheHoundsthereandagreatsportandtheysayitisveryamusingandexciting。InafortnightIshallgotoMalta。IcalledonHarryCust"sbrotherandtoldhimwhoIwasandhetookmeinandputmeattheheadofthetableofyoungsubalternsingranduniformsandwehadmarmaladeandcoldbeefandbeerandIwashappytothevergeoftearstohearEnglishassheisspoke。

Thenwewenttoapicnicandtookteainasmuggler"scaveandallthefoxterriersranoverthetableclothandtheCaptainspilthotwateroverhiswhiteflannelsandjumpedaroundononeleg。Afterwhichweplayedahandkerchiefgamesittinginarowandpeltingthegirlswithaknottedhandkerchiefandthenfightingforit——DuringoneofthesescrimmagesMulvaney，twoothersandLearoydcamebyandwitheyesfrontandhandsattheircapsmarchedonwithstolidcountenances，buttheirofficerswereembarrassed。ItishardtoreturnasalutewithyourfaceinthesandandastoutAmericansittingonyourneckandpullingyourfirstlieutenant"sleg。Iamnowdeeplyengagedfordinnersanddancesandteasandridesandamfeelingverycheerfulagain。Iamalsoverywellthankyouandhavenoillnessesofanysort。Youtoldmetobesureandputthatin——Asyousee，Ihavecutouthalfofmytriptoavoidthecholera，soyouneednotworryaboutTHAT。

To-dayIamgoingovertherampartsasmuchastheywillallowandto-morrowIgotoTangierwhereIexpecttohavesomeboarhunting。IwouldsuggestyourgettingTheEvangelistinaweekortwoasDr。Field"sletterscoverallIhaveseen。IdonottellyouanythingabouttheplacebecauseyouwillreadthatinthepapertotheH。W。butIcanassureyouthegirlsareveryprettyandbeinggarrisongirlsarenotasshyasthoseathomeinEngland。IamthefirstAmericantheyevermettheyassuremeeveryhourandwegetonverywellnotwithstanding。

YoucanimaginewhatitislikewhenSpaniards，MoorsandEnglishSoldiersareallcrowdedintoonelongstreetwithdonkeysandgeeseandpriestsandsmugglersandmeninpoloclothesandsoldiersinfootballsuitsandsailorsfromtheman-of-war。Ofcourse，theRockisthebeststoryofitall。

Itisafairgreensmilinghillnotafortressatall。NomoreafortresstolookatthanFairmontParkwaterworks，butthejokeofitisthatundereverybushthereisagunandeverygunispaintedgreenandcoveredwithhangingcurtainsofmossandeverypromenadeisunderminedandthebleakestfaceoftherockistunnelledwithroomsandhalls。Everynightwearelockedinandthesoldierscarrythebigironkeysclankingthroughthestreets。Itisgoingtomakeinterestingreading。

DICK。

GIBRALTAR。

DEARMOTHER:February23rd，1893。

AEneaswho"rantheroundofsomanychances"inthisneighborhoodwasastationarystayathometowhatIhavetodo。IfIevergetawayfromtheRockIshallbeatravellerofthegreatestpossibleexperience。

IcamehereintendingtostayaweekandtowritemyletteronGib。andonTangierquietlyandpeacefullylikeagentlemanandthentogoontoMalta。Ilovethisplaceandthereissomethingtodoandseeeveryminuteofthetimebutwhathappenedwasthis:Alltheboatsthateverleftherestoppedrunning，brokeshafts，orwentintoquarantineorjustsailedby，andunlessIwanttospendtwoweeksontheseainordertohaveoneatMalta，whichisonlyamilitarystationlikethis，Imustgooffto-morrowwithmyarticlesunwritten，myphotosundevelopedandmydinnercallsunpaid。IamnowwaitingtohearifIcangettoAlgiersbychangingtwicefromonesteamertoanotheralongthecoastofSpain。ItwillbeagreatnuisancebutIshallbeabletoseeAlgiersandTunisandMaltainthethreeweekswhichwouldhaveotherwisebeengiventoMaltaalone。AndTunisIamparticularlykeentosee。WhilewaitingforatelegramfromSpainabouttheboats，IshalltellyouwhatIhavebeendoing。EverybodywasgladtoseemeaftermyreturnfromTangier。IdinedwiththeGovernoronMonday，inafinelargeroomlinedwithportraitsofalltheoldcommandersandtheircoats-of-armslikealittleforestofflagsandtheGovernor"sdaughterdancedaSpanishdanceforusafteritwasover。MissBuckle，Cust"sfiancee，dancesalmostaswellasCarmencita，allthegirlsherelearnitasothergirlsdothepiano。OnTuesdayCustandMissB。andanothergirlandIwentoverintoSpaintoseethemeetandwehadashortrunafterafoxwhowenttoearth，muchtomyrelief，inaboutthreeminutesandbeforeIhadbeenthrownoff。TherearenofencesbutthegroundisonemassofrocksandcactusandravinesdownwhichtheseEnglishgowithaneasethatmakesmetremblewithadmiration。Wehadnotcomeouttofollow，sowe，beingquitesoakedthroughandveryhungry，wenttoaninnanditwassuchaninnasDonQuixoteusedtostopat，withthedining-roomoverthestableandalotofdrunkenmuleteersinthecourtandbeautifulyoungwomentowaitonus。ItisabeautifulcountrySpain，witheverysortofgreenyoueverdreamedof。Wehadomelettesandnativewineandblackbreadandgotwarmagainandthentrottedhomeintherainandgotwetagain，sowestoppedattheguardhouseontheoutsideoftherockandtookteawiththeofficerinchargeandweallgotdownonourkneesaroundhisfireandhehobbledarounddroppinghiseyeglassesinhishotwaterandverymuchhonoredandexceedinglyembarrassed。Iamusedmyselfbyputtingonalltheuniformshedidnothappentohaveonandtheyoungladiesdrankteaandthawed。ThisisthemostvariousplaceIevercameacross。YouhavemountainsandseashoreandallamandaslikeMonteCarlointheirtropicalbeautyandsoldiersdayandnightmarchinganddrillingandbangingbrassbandsandtennisandgunsfiringsoastorattleallthewindows，andpicnicsandteas。IamengagedwayaheadnowbutImustgetofftomorrow。OnWashington"sbirthdayI

gavealuncheonbecauseitstruckmeasthemostinappropriateplaceinwhichonecouldcelebratethegoodman"smemoryandtheGovernorwouldnotthinkofcomingatfirst，butItoldhimIwasnotaBritishsubjectandthatifIcouldgotohisdinnerhecouldcometomylunch，sothat，orthefactthatthebeautifulMissBucklewascomingdecidedhimtowaiveetiquetteandhecamewithhisA。D。C。andhisdaughterandofficersandgirlscameandIhadAmericanflagsandEnglishflagsandaportraitofWashingtonandoftheQueenandI

ransackedthemarketsforvioletsandbankedthemallupinthemiddle。Itwasfine。IturnedthehotelupsidedownandalltheservantsworetheirbestliveryandeverybodystoodupinarowandsalutedHisExcellencyandImadeaspeechandsodidhisExcellencyandthechefdidhimselfproud。Igotitupinonemorning。HelenBenedictcouldnothavedoneitbetter。

IhadafunnyadventurethemorningIleftTangier——TherewasagooddealoftalkaboutField(confoundhim)andmygettingintotheprisonandTheHeraldandTimescorrespondentswereratherblueaboutitandsomeoftheEnglishresidentssaidthatIhadnotbeenshownthewholeoftheprison，thattheworsthadbeenkeptfromus。

FieldwhoonlygotintotheprisonbecauseIhadworkedatittwodays，saidtherewasanadditionalwardIhadnotseen。Iwentbackintothiswhileheandtheguardweregettingthedooropentogooutandsawnothing，buttomakesurethattheprisonwasasIbelievedanabsolutesquare，Iwentbackonthemorningofmydepartureandclimbedawallandcrawledoverahousetopandphotographedthetopoftheprison。ThenahorribledoubtcametomethatthishouseuponwhichIwasstandingandwhichadjoinedtheprisonmightbetheadditionofwhichtheEnglishresidentshinted。TherewasanoldwomaninthegardenbelowjumpingupanddownandtowhomIhadbeenshyingmoneytokeepherquiet。IsenttheguidearoundtoaskherwhatwasthenatureofthebuildinguponwhichIhadtrespassedandwhichseemedtoworryhersomuch——HecamebacktotellmethatIwasonthetopofaharemandtheoldwomanthoughtI

wasgettingupaflirtationwiththegentleman"swives。SoI

droppedbackagain。

ItwillbeacoupleofmonthsatleastbeforemyfirststorycomesoutinTheWeekly。IcannotjudgeofthembutIthinktheyareuptotheaverageoftheWesternstories，thematerialismuchricherIknow，butIamsomuchbesetbythenewsightsthatIhavenotthepatienceortheleisureIhadintheWest——Thenthereweredaysinwhichwritingwasarelief，nowthereissomuchtoseethatitseemsalmostashametowasteit。

BythegraceofProvidenceIcannotleavehereuntilthe28th，muchtomyjoyandIhavefoundoutthatIcandobetterbygoingdirecttoMaltaandthentoTunis，leavingAlgierswhichIdidnotwanttoseeoutofit-Hurrah。IshallnowreturntothecalmcontinuationofmystoryandtowritingnoteswhichChaswillenjoy。

DICK。

GIBRALTAR-February1893。

DEARMOTHER:

Moroccoasitisisaveryfineplacespoiledbycivilization。

Notnicecivilizationbutthedregsofit，thebrokendownnoblemenofSpainandcashieredcaptainsofEnglandandtheR——L——"sofAmerica。Theyhuntandplaycricketandgambleanddonothingtomaintainwhatisbestintheplaceortohelpwhatisworst。IlovetheMoorsandthewaytheyhatetheChristianandthescornandpridetheyshow。TheyseemtocarryallthemysteryanddignityofAfricaandofforeignconquestsaboutthem，andtheyarewonderfullywellmadeandfinelookingandself-respecting。Thecolorisverybeautiful，buttheforeignelementspoilsitateveryturn。

OneshouldreallygoinlandbutIshallnotbecauseImeantodothatwhenIreachCairo。EverybodygoesinlandfromhereandBonsalhascovereditalready。Heisagreatmanhereamongallclasses。

IhaveboughttwolonggunsandthreepistolsthreefeetlongandaMoorishcostumeforafternoonteas。Ishalllookfine。

Myguide"sideaofpleasingmeistokickeverybodyoutofthewaywhichalwaysbringsdowncursesonmesoIhavetogobackandgivethemmoneyandamsograduallybecomingpopularandmuchsoughtafterbyblindbeggars。Youcangetthreepoundsofcopperforafrancanditlastsalldaythrowingitrightandleftallthetime。ImadeagreattearinBonsal"srecordtodaybyrefusingtopayasnakecharmerallhewantedandthenwhenheprotestedItookoneofthesnakesoutofhishandsandswungitaroundmyheadtothedelightofthepeople。IwantedtoshowhimhewasafakirtowantmetopayforwhatIwoulddomyself。Itwasalargesnakeaboutfourfeetlong。Thenmyhorseandanotherhorsegotfightingintheprincipalstreetinthecitystandingupontheirhindlegsandboxinglikemenandbitingandsquealing。ItwasawfulandIgotmineoutofthewayandwastrodonandhadmyarmnearlypulledoffandthecrowdapplaudedandaskedmyguidewhetherIwasAmericanorEnglish。TheydonotliketheEnglish。SowiththelowerclassesImaysaythatIamhavingasocialsuccess。

DICK。

OffMalta——March1，1893。

DEARMOTHER:

Ihavebeenhavingadelightfulvoyagewithmoonlightallnightandsunlightallday。AfricakeptinsightmostofthetimeandbeforethatwesawbeautifulmountainsinSpaincoveredwithsnowandredinthesunset。TherewerealotofniceEnglishpeoplegoingouttoIndiatomeettheirhusbandsandwehave"tiffin"and"choota"and"curry，"soitreallyseemedoriental。ThethirdnightoutwesawAlgierssparklinglikeConeyIsland。IplaygameswithmyselfandpretendIamatmyroomsreadingastorywhichisveryhardtopretendasIneverreadinmyroomsandthenIlookupandexclaim"Hello，I"mnotinNewYork，that"sAlgiers。"Thethingthathasimpressedmemostishowabsolutelysmalltheworldisandhowchildishlyeasyitistogoaroundit。YouandNoraMUSTtakethistrip；asformeIthinkWillieChanleristhemostsensibleindividualIhaveyetmet。

AllthefascinationofKingSolomon"sMinesseemstobebehindthosegreatmountainsandthisImayaddisabitofadvanceworkformother，anenteringwedgetomydisappearingfromsightforyearsandyearsintheCongo。Which，seriously，I

willnotdo；onlyitisdisappointingtofindtheearthsosmallandsoeasilyencompassedthatyouwanttogoonwhereitisolder，andnew。Theworstofitisthatitishardleavingallthenicepeopleyoumeetandthenmustsaygood-byeto。TheyoungladiesandCapt。BuckleandCustcamedowntoseemeoffandBucklebroughtmeaphotofourfeetlongofGib，anofficialonewhichIhadtosmuggleoutwithagreatshowofsecrecyandnowIshallbesorrytoleavethesepeople。JustasIwrotethatoneoftheofficersgoingouttojoinhisregimentcametothedoorandblushingsaidthepassengersweregettinguparoundrobinaskingmetostoponandgotoCairo。

Sincewritingtheabovelotsofthingshavehappened。IbidfarewelltoeveryoneatMaltaandyetinfourhoursIwasbackagainbagandbaggageandamnowonmywaytoCairo。TunisandtheBeyareimpossible。AssoonasIlandedatMaltaIfoundthatthoughIcouldgotoTunisIcouldnotgoawaywithoutbeingquarantinedfortendaysandifIremainedinMaltaImuststayaweek。OnbalancingaweekofEgyptagainstaweekofMaltaI

couldnotdoitsoIputbacktothissteameragainandhereI

am。TomorrowwereachBrindisiandwehavealreadypassedSicilyandhadaglimpseofthetoeofItalyanditisthecoldestsunnyItalythatIeverimagined。IambitterlydisappointedaboutTunis。IhavenoletterstobigpeopleinCairoonlysubalternsbutIshallprobablygetalong。Ialwaysmanagesomehowwithmy"artfullittleIkeyways。"Itwasmostgratifyingtomarkmyreturntothisboat。OneyoungwomandancedaKangaroodanceandtheCaptainweptandallthestewardsstoodinalineandgrinned。IsingChevalier"ssongsandtheyallsitinthediningroombelowandforgettolayouttheplatesandlastnightsomeoftheRoyalBerkshirewithwhomIdinedatMaltacameonboardandafterhearingtheOldKentRoadwereonthepointofMutinyandrefusedtoreturntobarracks。GreatisthePowerofChevalierandgreatishispowerfortakingyoubacktoLondonwiththreeopeningbars。MaltawasthequeerestplaceIevergotinto。Itwaslikeacity，countryandislandmadeofcheese，mouldycheese，andfreshlimburgercheesewithholesinit。Yousailedrightuptothefrontdoorasitwereandpeoplewerehangingoutofthewindowssmokingpipesandlookingdownonthedeckascomplacentlyasthoughhavinganoceansteamerintheyardwasasmuchamatterofcourseasaperambulator。TherewerealsowomenwithblackhoodswhichtheywearasapenancebecauselongagotheladiesofMaltagotthemselvestalkedabout。IwasonshoreaboutfivehoursandsawsomeinterestingthingsandwiththatandBrindisiandthevoyageIcanmakeathirdletterbutTunisiswritonmyheartlikeCalais。

TodayClevelandisinauguratedandItookallthepassengersdownatthepropertimeandexplainedtothemthatatthatmomentagreatmanwasbeingmadepresidentandgavethemeachanAmericancocktailtorememberitbyandinwhichtotoasthimIamgettingtobeagreatspeechmakerandifthereareanymoreanniversariesinAmericaIshallbeasecondDepew。

Itislatebutitisstilltheseasonhereanditwillbegay，butwhatIwanttodonowistogooffonalittletripinlandalthoughCairoistheworstofallforitissurroundedbydesertsandnothingtoshootbutantelopeandfoxesandthoseISCORN。IwantZulusandlions。IshallbegreatlydisappointedifIdonothavesomethingtodooutsideofCairoforIhavehadnoadventuresatall。ItisjustascivilizedasCamdenonlymoreexcitingandbeautifulalthoughCamdenisexcitingwhenyouhavetogetthereandbackintimeforthelastedition。FromwhatIhavealreadyseenIamreadytospendamonthinCairoandthenconfesstoknowingnothingofit。Butweshallsee。TheremaybeaWARoralionhuntorsomethingyetifthereisnotIshallcomebackhereagain。I

mustfirethatWinchesteroffatleastoncejustforallthetroubleithasgivenmeatcustomhouses。SomethingexcitingmusthappenorIshalllosefaithintheluckoftheBritisharmywhichmarchesshouldertoshoulderwithmine。IfIdon"thaveanyadventuresIshallwriteessaysonartafterthislikeMrs。Van。Loveandlotsofit。

DICK。

CAIRO，March11，1893。

DEARMOTHER:

Inafamousbookthislineoccurs，"HedeterminedtogotothathotelinCairowheretheyweretohavespenttheirhoneymoon，"orwordslikethat。Heisnowatthathotelandyoucanbuythefamousbookacrossthestreet。Itiscalled"Gallegher。"So——inthiswayeverythingcomestohimwhowaitsandhecomestoit。"Gallegher"isnottheonlythingyoubuyinEgypt。YouridetothePyramidsonabrakewithamaninawhitefelthatblowingahorn，andthebugleroftheArmyofOccupationisasmuchinevidenceasthepriestwhocallsthemtoprayerfromtheminaret。IleftthepeopleI

likedontheSulteylastThursdayintheSuezCanalandcameonhereinaspecialtrain。Itisverycoldhere，anditisnotaplacewherethecoldisinkeepingwiththesurroundings。

Youseepeopleinwhitehelmetsandastrakanovercoats。

Itisanimmensecityandintenselyinteresting，especiallythebazaars，butyoufeelsoignorantaboutitallthatitratherangersyou。IwishIwasnotsuchaverybadhandatlanguages。ThatisONETHINGIcannotdo，thatandride。I

needitverymuch，travelingsomuch，andIshallstudyveryhardwhileIaminParis。Ourconsul-generalhereisaveryyoungman，andheshowedmeaKansaspaperwhenIcalledonhim，whichsaidthatIwasintheEastandwouldprobablycallon"Ed"L。HeisveryciviltomeandgivesmehiscarriagesandoutriderswithgoldclothesandswordswheneverIwilltakethem。

Itissobeastlycoldherethatitspoilsalotofthings，andtherearealotofAmericanswhosay，"Ihadnoideayouweresoyoungaman，"andthat，afterbeingfiveyearsoldforamonthandplayingchildren"sgameswithEnglishpeoplewhodidn"tknoworcareanythingaboutyouexceptthatyoumadethemlaugh，israthertrying。Iamdisappointedsofarinthetripbecauseithasdevelopednothingnewbeyondthefactthatgoingaroundtheworldisofnomoreimportancethangoingtobreakfast，andIamselfishinmysightseeingandwanttoseethingsothersdonot。Andifyouevendoseemorethanthosewhoarenotsofortunateandwhohavetoremainathome，stillyouaresoignorantincomparisonwiththosewhohavelivedhereforyearsandtowhomthewholeofAfricaisaspeculationinlandorrailroads，itmakesyoufeellikesuchafakerandasifitwerebettertoturncorrespondentfortheN。Y。Herald，Parisedition，andsendbackthenamesofthosewhoarestayingatthehotels。Thatisreallyallyoucanspeakwithauthorityabout。WhenyouhaveGordonandStanleydishesonthebill-of-fare，youfeelashamedtosayyou"vebeeninEgypt。Anyway，IamafakerandIdon"tcare，andIprovedittodaybybeingphotographedonacamelinfrontofthePyramids，andifthatwasn"timpertinenceIdonotknowitsname。IaccordinglywentandboughtalotofgolddressesforNoraasapenance。

Asamatteroffact，unlessIgetintotheinteriorforamonthandseesomethingnew，Ishallconsiderthetripafailure，exceptasamostamusingholidayforone，andthatwasnotexactlywhatIwantedorallIwanted。AfterthisI

shallgotobigcitiesonlyandstaythere。Everybodytravelsandeverybodyseesasmuchasyoudoandsaysnothingofit，certainlydoesnotpresumetowriteabookaboutit。Anyway，ithasbeengreatfun，soIshallputitdowntothatanddosomeseriousworktomakeupforit。I"dratherhavewrittenagoodstoryabouttheInaugurationthanaboutCairo。

Iamwell，asusual，andhavingafineloaf，onlyIdon"tthinkmuchofwhatIhavewritten——that"sall。

DICK。

CAIRO，March19th，1893。

DEARMOTHER:

IwentupthePyramidsyesterdayandIamverysoretoday。Itsoundseasybecausesomanypeopledoit，buttheydoitbecausetheydon"tknow。Ihavebeenputtingitoff，andputtingitoff，untilIfeltashamedtosuchadegreethatI

hadtogo。Littlehadneverbeeneither，sowewentouttogetherandmetStanfordWhiteandtheEmmettsthere，andweallwentup。IwouldrathergointoCentralAfricathandoitagain。Iamgettingfatandthat"saboutit——andIhadtohalfpullamuchfattermanthanmyselfwhopretendedtohelpme。IfinallytoldthemI"dgoaloneunlessthefatmanwentaway，sotheothertwodrovehimoff。Goingdownisworse。