第3章
Outside，inaglimmeringnight，Isawtheblack，amorphoushillsshootbyunweariedlyintoourwake。TheythatlongformorninghaveneverlongedforitmoreearnestlythanI。
Andyetwhendaycame，itwastoshineuponthesamebrokenandunsightlyquarteroftheworld。Mileuponmile，andnotatree，abird，orariver。Onlydownthelong，sterilecanons，thetrainshothootingandawoketherestingecho。Thattrainwastheonepieceoflifeinallthedeadlyland；itwastheoneactor，theonespectaclefittobeobservedinthisparalysisofmanandnature。
AndwhenIthinkhowtherailroadhasbeenpushedthroughthisunwateredwildernessandhauntofsavagetribes，andnowwillbearanemigrantforsome12poundsfromtheAtlantictotheGoldenGates；howateachstageoftheconstruction，roaring，impromptucities，fullofgoldandlustanddeath，sprangupandthendiedawayagain，andarenowbutwaysidestationsinthedesert；howintheseuncouthplacespig-tailedChinesepiratesworkedsidebysidewithborderruffiansandbrokenmenfromEurope，talkingtogetherinamixeddialect，mostlyoaths，gambling，drinking，quarrellingandmurderinglikewolves；howtheplumedhereditarylordofallAmericaheard，inthislastfastness，thescreamofthe"badmedicinewaggon"chariotinghisfoes；andthenwhenIgoontorememberthatallthisepicalturmoilwasconductedbygentlemeninfrockcoats，andwithaviewtonothingmoreextraordinarythanafortuneandasubsequentvisittoParis，itseemstome，Iown，asifthisrailwayweretheonetypicalachievementoftheageinwhichwelive，asifitbroughttogetherintooneplotalltheendsoftheworldandallthedegreesofsocialrank，andofferedtosomegreatwriterthebusiest，themostextended，andthemostvariedsubjectforanenduringliterarywork。Ifitberomance，ifitbecontrast，ifitbeheroismthatwerequire，whatwasTroytowntothis？But，alas!itisnotthesethingsthatarenecessary-itisonlyHomer。
Herealsowearegratefultothetrain，astosomegodwhoconductsusswiftlythroughtheseshadesandbysomanyhiddenperils。
Thirst，hunger，thesleightandferocityofIndiansareallnomorefeared，solightlydoweskimthesehorriblelands；asthegull，whowingssafelythroughthehurricaneandpasttheshark。Yetweshouldnotbeforgetfulofthesehardshipsofthepast；andtokeepthebalancetrue，sinceIhavecomplainedofthetriflingdiscomfortsofmyjourney，perhapsmorethanwasenough，letmeaddanoriginaldocument。ItwasnotwrittenbyHomer，butbyaboyofeleven，longsincedead，andisdatedonlytwentyyearsago。I
shallpunctuate，tomakethingsclearer，butnotchangethespelling。
"MydearSisterMary，-Iamafraidyouwillgonearlycrazywhenyoureadmyletter。IfJerry"(thewriter"seldestbrother)"hasnotwrittentoyoubeforenow，youwillbesurprisedtohearethatweareinCalifornia，andthatpoorThomas"(anotherbrother，offifteen)"isdead。Westartedfrom-inJuly，withplenlyofprovisionsandtooyokeoxen。WewentalongverywelltillwegotwithinsixorsevenhundredmilesofCalifornia，whentheIndiansattackedus。Wefoundplaceswheretheyhadkilledtheemigrants。
Wehadonepassengerwithus，tooguns，andonerevolver；soweranalltheleadWehadintobullets(and)hungthegunsupinthewagonsothatwecouldgetattheminaminit。Itwasabouttwoo"clockintheafternoon；droavethecattelalittleway；whenaprairiechickenalitedalittlewayfromthewagon。
"Jerrytookoutoneofthegunstoshootit，andtoldTomdrivetheoxen。TomandIdrovetheoxen，andJerryandthepassengerwenton。Then，afteralittle，IleftTomandcaughtupwithJerryandtheotherman。JerrystoppedTomtocomeup；meandthemanwentonandsitdownbyalittlestream。Inafewminutes，weheardsomenoise；thenthreeshots(theyallstruckpoorTom，Isuppose)；
thentheygavethewarhoop，andasmanyastwentyoftheredskinscamedownuponus。ThethreethatshotTomwashidbythesideoftheroadinthebushes。
"IthoughttheTomandJerrywereshot；soItoldtheothermanthatTomandJerryweredead，andthatwehadbettertrytoescape，ifpossible。Ihadnoshoeson；havingasorefoot，IthoughtI
wouldnotputthemon。Themanandmerundowntheroad，butWewassoonstoppedbyanIndianonapony。Wethenturendtheotherway，andrunupthesideoftheMountain，andhidbehindsomecedartrees，andstayedtheretilldark。TheIndianshuntedalloverafterus，andverryclosetous，soclosethatwecouldheretheretomyhawksJingle。Atdarkthemanandmestartedon，Istubingmytoesagainststicksandstones。Wetraveldonallnight；andnextmorning，justasitwasgettinggray，wesawsomethingintheshapeofaman。ItlayedDowninthegrass。Wewentuptoit，anditwasJerry。HethoughtwewareIndians。Youcanimaginehowgladhewastoseeme。Hethoughtwewasalldeadbuthim，andwethoughthimandTomwasdead。HehadthegunthathetookoutofthewagontoshoottheprairieChicken；allhehadwastheloadthatwasinit。
"Wetraveldontillabouteighto"clock，Wecaughtupwithonewagonwithtoomenwithit。Wehadtraveldwiththembeforeoneday；westoptandtheyDroveon；weknewthattheywasaheadofus，unlesstheyhadbeenkilledto。MyfeetwassosorewhenwecaughtupwiththemthatIhadtoride；Icouldnotstep。Wetraveldonfortoodays，whenthementhatownedthecattlesaidtheywould(could)notdrivethemanotherinch。Weunyokedtheoxen；wehadaboutseventypoundsofflour；wetookitoutanddivideditintofourpacks。Eachofthementookabout18poundsapieceandablanket。Icarriedalittlebacon，driedmeat，andlittlequilt；I
hadinallabouttwelvepounds。Wehadonepintofflouradayforouralloyance。Sometimeswemadesoupofit；sometimeswe(made)
pancakes；andsometimesmixeditupwithcoldwaterandeatitthatway。Wetraveldtwelveorfourteendays。Thetimecameatlastwhenweshouldhavetoreachsomeplaceorstarve。Wesawfreshhorseandcattletracks。Themorningcome，wescrapedalltheflouroutofthesack，mixeditup，andbakeditintobread，andmadesomesoup，andeateverythingwehad。Wetraveldonalldaywithoutanythingtoeat，andthateveningweCaughtupwithasheeptrainofeightwagons。Wetraveldwiththemtillwearrivedatthesettlements；andknowIamsafeinCalifornia，andgottogoodhome，andgoingtoschool。
"Jerryisworkingin。Itisagoodcountry。Youcangetfrom50to60and75Dollarsforcooking。TellmeallabouttheaffairsintheStates，andhowallthefolksgetalong。"
Andsoendsthisartlessnarrative。Thelittlemanwasatschoolagain，Godblesshim，whilehisbrotherlayscalpeduponthedeserts。
FELLOW-PASSENGERS
AtOgdenwechangedcarsfromtheUnionPacifictotheCentralPacificlineofrailroad。Thechangewasdoublywelcome；for，first，wehadbettercarsonthenewline；and，second，thoseinwhichwehadbeencoopedformorethanninetyhourshadbeguntostinkabominably。Severalyardsaway，aswereturned，letussayfromdinner，ournostrilswereassailedbyrancidair。Ihavestoodonaplatformwhilethewholetrainwasshunting；andasthedwelling-carsdrewnear，therewouldcomeawhiffofpuremenagerie，onlyalittlesourer，asfrommeninsteadofmonkeys。I
thinkwearehumanonlyinvirtueofopenwindows。Withoutfreshair，youonlyrequireabadheart，andaremarkablecommandoftheQueen"sEnglish，tobecomesuchanotherasDeanSwift；akindofleering，humangoat，leapingandwaggingyourscutonmountainsofoffence。Idomybesttokeepmyheadtheotherway，andlookforthehumanratherthanthebestialinthisYahoo-likebusinessoftheemigranttrain。ButonethingImustsay，thecaroftheChinesewasnotablytheleastoffensive。
ThecarsontheCentralPacificwerenearlytwiceashigh，andsoproportionallyairier；theywerefreshlyvarnished，whichgaveusallasenseofcleanlinessanthoughwehadbathed；theseatsdrewoutandjoinedinthecentre，sothattherewasnomoreneedforbedboards；andtherewasanuppertierofberthswhichcouldbeclosedbydayandopenedatnight。
IhadbythistimesomeopportunityofseeingthepeoplewhomIwasamong。TheywereinrathermarkedcontrasttotheemigrantsIhadmetonboardshipwhilecrossingtheAtlantic。Theyweremostlylumpishfellows，silentandnoisy，acommoncombination；somewhatsad，Ishouldsay，withanextraordinarypoortasteinhumour，andlittleinterestintheirfellow-creaturesbeyondthatofacheapandmerelyexternalcuriosity。Iftheyheardaman"snameandbusiness，theyseemedtothinktheyhadtheheartofthatmystery；
buttheywereaseagertoknowthatmuchastheywereindifferenttotherest。SomeofthemwereonnettlestilltheylearnedyournamewasDicksonandyouajourneymanbaker；butbeyondthat，whetheryouwereCatholicorMormon，dullorclever，fierceorfriendly，wasallonetothem。Otherswhowerenotsostupid，gossipedalittle，and，Iamboundtosay，unkindly。Afavouritewitticismwasforsomelouttoraisethealarmof"Allaboard!"
whiletherestofusweredining，thuscontributinghismitetothegeneraldiscomfort。Suchaonewasalwaysmuchapplaudedforhishighspirits。WhenIwasillcomingthroughWyoming，Iwasastonished-freshfromtheeagerhumanityonboardship-tomeetwithlittlebutlaughter。Oneoftheyoungmenevenamusedhimselfbyincommodingme，aswasthenveryeasy；andthatnotfromill-
nature，butmereclodlikeincapacitytothink，forheexpectedmetojointhelaugh。Ididso，butitwasphantommerriment。Lateron，amanfromKansashadthreeviolentepilepticfits，andthough，ofcourse，therewerenotwantingsometohelphim，itwasrathersuperstitiousterrorthansympathythathiscaseevokedamonghisfellow-passengers。"Oh，Ihopehe"snotgoingtodie!"criedawoman；"itwouldbeterribletohaveadeadbody!"Andtherewasaverygeneralmovementtoleavethemanbehindatthenextstation。
This，bygoodfortune，theconductornegatived。
Therewasagooddealofstory-tellinginsomequarters；inothers，littlebutsilence。Inthissociety，morethananyotherthateverIwasin，itwasthenarratoralonewhoseemedtoenjoythenarrative。Itwasrarelythatanyonelistenedforthelistening。
Ifhelentaneartoanotherman"sstory，itwasbecausehewasinimmediatewantofahearerforoneofhisown。Foodandtheprogressofthetrainwerethesubjectsmostgenerallytreated；
manyjoinedtodiscussthesewhootherwisewouldholdtheirtongues。Onesmallknothadnobetteroccupationthantowormoutofmemyname；andthemoretheytried，themoreobstinatelyfixedIgrewtobafflethem。Theyassailedmewithartfulquestionsandinsidiousoffersofcorrespondenceinthefuture；butIwasperpetuallyonmyguard，andparriedtheirassaultswithinwardlaughter。IamsureDubuquewouldhavegivenmetendollarsforthesecret。Heowedmefarmore，hadheunderstoodlife，forthuspreservinghimalivelyinterestthroughoutthejourney。Imetoneofmyfellow-passengersmonthsafter，drivingastreettramwaycarinSanFrancisco；and，asthejokewasnowoutofseason，toldhimmynamewithoutsubterfuge。Youneversawamanmorechapfallen。
ButhadmynamebeenDemogorgon，aftersoprolongedamysteryhehadstillbeendisappointed。
TherewerenoemigrantsdirectfromEurope-saveoneGermanfamilyandaknotofCornishminerswhokeptgrimlybythemselves，onereadingtheNewTestamentalldaylongthroughsteelspectacles，therestdiscussingprivatelythesecretsoftheirold-world，mysteriousrace。LadyHesterStanhopebelievedshecouldmakesomethinggreatoftheCornish；formypart，Icanmakenothingofthematall。Adivisionofraces，olderandmoreoriginalthanthatofBabel，keepsthisclose，esotericfamilyapartfromneighbouringEnglishmen。NotevenaRedIndianseemsmoreforeigninmyeyes。Thisisoneofthelessonsoftravel-thatsomeofthestrangestracesdwellnextdoortoyouathome。
TherestwereallAmericanborn，buttheycamefromalmosteveryquarterofthatContinent。AlltheStatesoftheNorthhadsentoutafugitivetocrosstheplainswithme。FromVirginia，fromPennsylvania，fromNewYork，fromfarwesternIowaandKansas，fromMaimethatbordersontheCanadas，andfromtheCanadasthemselves-someoneortwowerefleeinginquestofabetterlandandbetterwages。Thetalkinthetrain，likethetalkIheardonthesteamer，ranuponhardtimes，shortcommons，andhopethatmoveseverwestward。IthoughtofmyshipfulfromGreatBritainwithafeelingofdespair。Theyhadcome3000miles，andyetnotfarenough。HardtimesbowedthemoutoftheClyde，andstoodtowelcomethematSandyHook。Whereweretheytogo？Pennsylvania，Maine，Iowa，Kansas？Thesewerenotplacesforimmigration，butforemigration，itappeared；notoneofthem，butIknewamanwhohadlifteduphisheelandleftitforanungratefulcountry。Anditwasstillwestwardthattheyran。Hunger，youwouldhavethought，cameoutoftheeastlikethesun，andtheeveningwasmadeofediblegold。And，meantime，inthecarinfrontofme，weretherenothalfahundredemigrantsfromtheoppositequarter？
HungryEuropeandhungryChina，eachpouringfromtheirgatesinsearchofprovender，hadherecomefacetoface。Thetwowaveshadmet；eastandwesthadalikefailed；thewholeroundworldhadbeenprospectedandcondemned；therewasnoElDoradoanywhere；andtillonecouldemigratetothemoon，itseemedaswelltostaypatientlyathome。Norwastherewantinganothersign，atoncemorepicturesqueandmoredisheartening；for，aswecontinuedtosteamwestwardtowardthelandofgold，wewerecontinuallypassingotheremigranttrainsuponthejourneyeast；andthesewereascrowdedasourown。Hadallthesereturnvoyagersmadeafortuneinthemines？WeretheyallboundforParis，andtobeinRomebyEaster？
Itwouldseemnot，for，wheneverwemetthem，thepassengersranontheplatformandcriedtousthroughthewindows，inakindofwailingchorus，to"comeback。"OntheplainsofNebraska，inthemountainsofWyoming，itwasstillthesamecry，anddismaltomyheart，"Comeback!"Thatwaswhatweheardbytheway"aboutthegoodcountryweweregoingto。"AndatthatveryhourtheSand-lotofSanFranciscowascrowdedwiththeunemployed，andtheechofromtheothersideofMarketStreetwasrepeatingtherantofdemagogues。
If，intruth，itwereonlyforthesakeofwagesthatmenemigrate，howmanythousandswouldregretthebargain!Butwages，indeed，areonlyoneconsiderationoutofmany；forwearearaceofgipsies，andlovechangeandtravelforthemselves。
DESPISEDRACES
Ofallstupidill-feelings，thesentimentofmyfellowCaucasianstowardsourcompanionsintheChinesecarwasthemoststupidandtheworst。Theyseemednevertohavelookedatthem，listenedtothem，orthoughtofthem，buthatedthemAPRIORI。TheMongolsweretheirenemiesinthatcruelandtreacherousbattle-fieldofmoney。Theycouldworkbetterandcheaperinhalfahundredindustries，andhencetherewasnocalumnytooidlefortheCaucasianstorepeat，andeventobelieve。Theydeclaredthemhideousvermin，andaffectedakindofchokinginthethroatwhentheybeheldthem。Now，asamatteroffact，theyoungChinesemanissolikealargeclassofEuropeanwomen，thatonraisingmyheadandsuddenlycatchingsightofoneataconsiderabledistance，I
haveforaninstantbeendeceivedbytheresemblance。Idonotsayitisthemostattractiveclassofourwomen，butforallthatmanyaman"swifeislesspleasantlyfavoured。Again，myemigrantsdeclaredthattheChineseweredirty。Icannotsaytheywereclean，forthatwasimpossibleuponthejourney；butintheireffortsaftercleanlinesstheyputtherestofustoshame。Weallpiggedandstewedinoneinfamy，wetourhandsandfacesforhalfaminutedailyontheplatform，andwereunashamed。ButtheChineseneverlostanopportunity，andyouwouldseethemwashingtheirfeet-anactnotdreamedofamongourselves-andgoingasfarasdecencypermittedtowashtheirwholebodies。Imayremarkbythewaythatthedirtierpeopleareintheirpersonsthemoredelicateistheirsenseofmodesty。Acleanmanstripsinacrowdedboathouse；buthewhoisunwashedslinksinandoutofbedwithoutuncoveringaninchofskin。Lastly，theseveryfoulandmalodorousCaucasiansentertainedthesurprisingillusionthatitwastheChinesewaggon，andthatalone，whichstank。Ihavesaidalreadythatitwastheexceptionsandnotablythefreshestofthethree。
ThesejudgmentsaretypicalofthefeelinginallWesternAmerica。
TheChineseareconsideredstupid，becausetheyareimperfectlyacquaintedwithEnglish。Theyareheldtobebase，becausetheirdexterityandfrugalityenablethemtounderbidthelazy，luxuriousCaucasian。Theyaresaidtobethieves；Iamsuretheyhavenomonopolyofthat。Theyarecalledcruel；theAnglo-SaxonandthecheerfulIrishmanmayeachreflectbeforehebearstheaccusation。
Iamtold，again，thattheyareoftheraceofriverpirates，andbelongtothemostdespisedanddangerousclassintheCelestialEmpire。Butifthisbeso，whatremarkablepirateshavewehere!
andwhatmustbethevirtues，theindustry，theeducation，andtheintelligenceoftheirsuperiorsathome!
AwhileagoitwastheIrish，nowitistheChinesethatmustgo。
Suchisthecry。Itseems，afterall，thatnocountryisboundtosubmittoimmigrationanymorethantoinvasion；eachiswartotheknife，andresistancetoeitherbutlegitimatedefence。Yetwemayregretthefreetraditionoftherepublic，whichlovedtodepictherselfwithopenarms，welcomingallunfortunates。Andcertainly，asamanwhobelievesthathelovesfreedom，ImaybeexcusedsomebitternesswhenIfindhersacrednamemisusedinthecontention。
ItwasbuttheotherdaythatIheardavulgarfellowintheSand-
lot，thepopulartribuneofSanFrancisco，roaringforarmsandbutchery。"AtthecallofAbrahamLincoln，"saidtheorator，"yeroseinthenameoffreedomtosetfreethenegroes；canyenotriseandliberateyourselvesfromafewdirtyMongolians？"
Formyownpart，IcouldnotlookbutwithwonderandrespectontheChinese。Theirforefatherswatchedthestarsbeforeminehadbeguntokeeppigs。Gun-powderandprinting，whichtheotherdayweimitated，andaschoolofmannerswhichweneverhadthedelicacysomuchastodesiretoimitate，weretheirsinalong-
pastantiquity。Theywalktheearthwithus，butitseemstheymustbeofdifferentclay。Theyheartheclockstrikethesamehour，yetsurelyofadifferentepoch。Theytravelbysteamconveyance，yetwithsuchabaggageofoldAsiaticthoughtsandsuperstitionsasmightcheckthelocomotiveinitscourse。
WhateveristhoughtwithinthecircuitoftheGreatWall；whatthewry-eyed，spectacledschoolmasterteachesinthehamletsroundPekin；religionssooldthatourlanguagelooksahalfingboyalongside；philosophysowisethatourbestphilosophersfindthingsthereintowonderat；allthistravelledalongsideofmeforthousandsofmilesoverplainandmountain。Heavenknowsifwehadonecommonthoughtorfancyallthatway，orwhetheroureyes，whichyetwereformeduponthesamedesign，beheldthesameworldoutoftherailwaywindows。Andwheneitherofusturnedhisthoughtstohomeandchildhood，whatastrangedissimilaritymusttherenothavebeeninthesepicturesofthemind-whenIbeheldthatold，gray，castledcity，highthronedabovethefirth，withtheflagofBritainflying，andthered-coatsentrypacingoverall；andthemaninthenextcartomewouldconjureupsomejunksandapagodaandafortofporcelain，andcallit，withthesameaffection，home。
Anotherracesharedamongmyfellow-passengersinthedisfavouroftheChinese；andthat，itishardlynecessarytosay，wasthenobleredmanofoldstory-overwhoseownhereditarycontinentwehadbeensteamingallthesedays。IsawnowildorindependentIndian；
indeed，Ihearthatsuchavoidtheneighbourhoodofthetrain；butnowandagainatwaystations，ahusbandandwifeandafewchildren，disgracefullydressedoutwiththesweepingsofcivilisation，cameforthandstaredupontheemigrants。Thesilentstoicismoftheirconduct，andthepatheticdegradationoftheirappearance，wouldhavetouchedanythinkingcreature，butmyfellow-passengersdancedandjestedroundthemwithatrulyCockneybaseness。Iwasashamedforthethingwecallcivilisation。Weshouldcarryuponourconsciencessomuch，atleast，ofourforefathers"misconductaswecontinuetoprofitbyourselves。
Ifoppressiondrivesawisemanmad，whatshouldberagingintheheartsofthesepoortribes，whohavebeendrivenbackandback，stepafterstep，theirpromisedreservationstornfromthemoneafteranotherastheStatesextendedwestward，untilatlengththeyareshutupintothesehideousmountaindesertsofthecentre-andeventherefindthemselvesinvaded，insulted，andhuntedoutbyruffianlydiggers？TheevictionoftheCherokees(tonamebutaninstance)，theextortionofIndianagents，theoutragesofthewicked，theill-faithofall，nay，downtotheridiculeofsuchpoorbeingsaswereherewithmeuponthetrain，makeupachapterofinjusticeandindignitysuchasamanmustbeinsomewaysbaseifhisheartwillsufferhimtopardonorforget。Theseold，well-
founded，historicalhatredshaveasavourofnobilityfortheindependent。ThattheJewshouldnotlovetheChristian，northeIrishmanlovetheEnglish，northeIndianbravetoleratethethoughtoftheAmerican，isnotdisgracefultothenatureofman；
rather，indeed，honourable，sinceitdependsonwrongsancientliketherace，andnotpersonaltohimwhocherishestheindignation。
TOTHEGOLDENGATES